Re: Planer or sander

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 20:55:25 -0400, Meanie <M...@gmail.com> wrote:

>I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
>instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
>get by with a sander instead of a planer?


Nope.

[dpb]

On 3/23/2018 7:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
> get by with a sander instead of a planer?

"Get by?" Sure; you've gotten by w/o either so for, right?

As for how satisfactorily, that's another question and mostly dependent
upon what you intend to actually try to do. Starting w/ roughsawn from
the mill without milling will be the death of the sander in short order
unless you invest in serious industrial unit and then you'd be having to
switch belt grits to do rough "planing" to finish sanding.

If you only use surfaced material and don't need to change actual stock
dimensions significantly, "maybe"...

--

[Leon]

Meanie <M...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>

A vertical sander?

A horizontal drum sander performs a similar function as a planer.

Before any one can advise you on which to get you must first tell us why
you want either one.

[dadiOH]

"Meanie" <M...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:p947rn$ikt$1...@dont-email.me...

> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking around
> for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander instead.
> Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they basically do the
> same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I get by with a
> sander instead of a planer?

I've "gotten by" like that for the last quarter century.

I buy only rough lumber and I have no desire for a planer. Yes, skinnying
down a board on a horizontal drum sander takes longer but not all that much
and you wind up with a perfectly smooth, undinged board. It is great for
getting rid of lippage on glued up panels not to mention the considerable
utility in being able to gang sand numerous narrow boards on edge to a
uniform width.

My Performax sander has gotten MUCH use over the last 25 years and the only
thing ever replaced were transport belts. No repairs ever necessary either.
IOW, whoever told you it wouldn't last knows not of what they speak :)

[dadiOH]

"dadiOH" <xi...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:p95hsq$563$1...@dont-email.me...

If you get one, you will HAVE to have a dust collector. A shop vac will
work but not very well and will be a PITA.

[dpb]

On 3/24/2018 7:56 AM, dadiOH wrote:
...

> IOW, whoever told you it wouldn't last knows not of what they speak :)

'Twas I, and 'pends largely on how one treats it...and the Performax's
are pretty well built.

I've done both as well and still far prefer having the planer for
roughing work; of course I've a PM Model 180 and Model 13
Rockwell/Delta, not just a benchtop so I'm used to seriously planing as
opposed to just nibbling...

--

[dpb]

On 3/24/2018 7:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:

> If you get one, you will HAVE to have a dust collector. A shop vac will
> work but not very well and will be a PITA.

So true, dat...meant to add that earlier; glad you did think to...

--

[Dr. Deb]

On Friday, March 23, 2018 at 8:37:54 PM UTC-5,

> On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 20:55:25 -0400,
>

> >I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
> >around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
> >instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
> >basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
> >get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>
>
> Nope.

As others have said, "It all depends on how you are going to use it." If you get your stock directly from the mill, or local sawyer, its a whole lot quicker to get it to the desired thickness with a planer than a sander. IF all you have left is a piece of 6/4 stock and you need a piece of 4/4, getting rid of that half inch will take a long time one fleck at a time.

In my shop, as much as I "think" I would like to have a sander, I neither have room for it, nor can see a compelling need.

[-MIKE-]

I have a planer and no panel sander.
If I had to choose only one to have, it would be the sander.

They are a lot more expensive, though.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

[Larry Kraus]

On 3/24/2018 7:50 AM, Meanie wrote:

> I meant horizontal.
>
> Main reason is to even out the "plane" after gluing boards together for
> a larger piece.

The planer should come first, to flatten roughsawn boards efficiently
and to be sure your boards are the exact same thickness before you glue
them up.

At one time I thought I wanted a horizontal drum sander, but I did not
have the necessary budget, dust collection or shop space. By necessity,
I learned how to improve my gluing technique to keep the boards even in
the first place, and how to use my hand planes and scrapers to level the
inevitable differences. I now have the budget and space for a sander,
but no desire to own one. I enjoy using my skills, and prefer a
planed/scraped surface to one that has been abraded. The last big panel
I made was about 3' x 5', made up of five boards. It took less than an
hour to bring both sides flat and parallel, ready for finish.

If you are not doing production work, and don't want to learn the manual
skills, find a local shop that will run your panels through their
sander. My brother-in-law had a 24" x 50" coffee table top sanded for
about $15.

[Leon]

On 3/24/2018 6:50 AM, Meanie wrote:
> On 3/24/2018 12:09 AM, Leon wrote:

> I meant horizontal.
>
> Main reason is to even out the "plane" after gluing boards together for
> a larger piece.

Most bench top planers are 13" or less so they will not get you there.

BUT a bench top planer will work much more quickly than a drum sander,
and will be much less expensive comparing like brand/quality.

A drum sander will pretty much do what a planer will do with more
capacity but will do so MUCH MUCH SLOWER.

If it were me I would go for the planer and add the sander later if you
want to get the most bang for your buck.

[Leon]

Aww, I bet you replaced the sanding belts too. ;~)

[Leon]

FWIW I have both, a 15" stationary Delta planer and a 22/44 Performax
drum sander.

[Markem]

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 15:19:09 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

With a bench top planer make your rough cut length about 6" more.

[Michael]

I can't afford a sander, but I am curious. Sometimes with a thickness planer, you have to shim to board to get rid of a twist. Is that a problem with a dual drum sander, or is that problem eliminated.

[Leon]

Essentially the drum sander will work exactly as a planer in that respect.

[dpb]

On 3/24/2018 4:52 PM, Michael wrote:

...

> I can't afford a sander, but I am curious. Sometimes with a thickness planer, you have to shim to board to get rid of a twist. Is that a problem with a dual drum sander, or is that problem eliminated.

Ideally, one has a jointer the size of the planer... :) then you get
the first surface flat, _then_ plane to thickness. (Even I don't have
that large a jointer to match the 18" PM, though, but normally one can
knock the high points off enough w/ hand scrub plane pretty quickly as
compared to making shims and the backing board.

Altho generally on something that twisted unless it's a really unique
piece of material or very pricey I'll just cut it down to use for
something else that it fits rather than try to correct.

Leon's right though, the two parallel portions of the machine are (and
must be to work properly) immobile with respect to each other as the
material goes through; hence the material is what has to give, mostly.

There's just a tiny bit more "give" in the sander backing rollers and
drive belts, but "tiny" is the operative word.

--

[Puckdropper]

Markem <mark...@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1iedbdp3ko96sasm3...@4ax.com:

>
> With a bench top planer make your rough cut length about 6" more.

Are you thinking about snipe on the ends? I haven't had much of a problem
with my DW735, as long as I support the end of the board as it comes out.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

[Electric Comet]

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 20:55:25 -0400

Meanie <M...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum
> sander instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but
> they basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice,
> could I get by with a sander instead of a planer?

you must mean a horiz drum sander but maybe there is a vertical
model out there

have never seen one


as to a horiz drum sander vs a thickness planer


i would rather have a horiz drum sander

pros are

quieter
no blades to chip or sharpen
usually a nicer finish
more options on the level of finish by changing grits
can work wider material on open sided machines
did i say quieter


cons are
slower material removal and do not take off too much at once
although some will detect if you try too hard and slow down
more dust
initial cost might be higher

[dpb]

On 3/25/2018 12:43 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
...

> i would rather have a horiz drum sander

...

Suit yourself; they're two different tools designed for two different
purposes albeit one can drive nails with things other than a hammer, yes...

--

[Jack]

On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
> get by with a sander instead of a planer?

I'd go for the planer. Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral head
segmented cutter. Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work well,
much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter. A bit louder than a sander but
still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a
minute, even large surfaces. About no need for a drum sander if you
have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.

Rough cut lumber is one use, and planing glue ups smooth another, but
they also make sizing dimensional lumber a breeze. For example, drawer
sides are 1/2" or 5/8" thick. 5/4 stock is good for brick moldings,
storm windows, and all sorts of stuff. In fact, most everything you make
just looks better in other than dimensional sizes. Sanders are not made
for this, period, and IF you can find other than dimensional lumber at a
store, it will be expensive, real expensive.

The advantages of a segmented, spiral cutter head are numerous:
Grain pattern/direction and knots negligible
Dust collection simple (small segmented chunks instead of long clogging
chunks.
Carbide knives have 4 sides that stay sharp 4 times longer than carbide
blades because you can rotate them also good if you nick a blade, just
rotate the blade.
No adjustments needed when replacing one or all knives.
Noise level is very low compared to long 3 knife cutters. For example,
my 6" jointer makes 5x more noise than my 15" planer when face jointing,
and the finish is not as good.





--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

[Leon]

On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>
> I'd go for the planer.  Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral head
> segmented cutter.  Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work well,
> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter.  A bit louder than a sander but
> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a
> minute, even large surfaces.  About no need for a drum sander if you
> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.

But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
to a uniform thickness. Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
higher or lower than it's mating piece.

I use my drum sander extensively for the above purposes.

[Scott Lurndal]

A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the 15" a typical
planer will handle. The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).

[dpb]

On 3/29/2018 1:23 PM, Leon wrote:
...

> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
> to a uniform thickness.  Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>
> I use my drum sander extensively for the above purposes.

Indeed falls in the "two different tools for different purposes"
category I outlined above... :)

--

[Leon]

On 3/29/2018 2:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>

>>> I'd go for the planer.  Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral head
>>> segmented cutter.  Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work well,
>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter.  A bit louder than a sander but

>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>> minute, even large surfaces.  About no need for a drum sander if you

>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>
>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>> to a uniform thickness. Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>
> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the 15" a typical
> planer will handle. The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).
>

I know I was forgetting something obvious.

[Brewster]

For my primary uses, a sander can do everything a planer can do, maybe
just not as quickly. This consists of frames, boxes, short items, and
boards up to about 36".

Surly there counter examples? I can't think of any off the top of my
head however.


I use my DS to surface rough lumber (short lengths) by starting with 36
grit. It takes about 1/32" per pass, but has no limitations for grain
direction and figured woods.

I'll still pull out my lunchbox planer when I need the speed (or the
extra 3" of thickness capacity over my DS), but I find I am using it
less and less nowadays.



-BR

[Jack]

On 3/29/2018 3:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum sander
>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice, could I
>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>

>>> I'd go for the planer. Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral head
>>> segmented cutter. Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work well,
>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter. A bit louder than a sander but

>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>> minute, even large surfaces. About no need for a drum sander if you

>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>
>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>> to a uniform thickness. Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>
> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the 15" a typical
> planer will handle. The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).

A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
which can be done quickly with any hand sander.

[-MIKE-]

That's what I end up doing for wider panel glue-ups.
One glued seem is pretty easy to knock down by sanding or a card
scraper, which works better to avoid dips at the seem.

[Scott Lurndal]

-MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> writes:
>On 3/30/18 10:18 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 3/29/2018 3:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum
>>>>>> sander
>>>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice,
>>>>>> could I
>>>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>>>

>>>>> I'd go for the planer.  Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral
>>>>> head
>>>>> segmented cutter.  Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work
>>>>> well,
>>>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter.  A bit louder than a sander

>>>>> but
>>>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>>>> minute, even large surfaces.  About no need for a drum sander if you

>>>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>>>
>>>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>>>> to a uniform thickness.  Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>>>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>>>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>>>
>>> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the
>>> 15" a typical
>>> planer will handle.��  The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
>>> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).
>>
>> A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
>> can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
>> which can be done quickly with any hand sander.
>>
>
>That's what I end up doing for wider panel glue-ups.
>One glued seem is pretty easy to knock down by sanding or a card
>scraper, which works better to avoid dips at the seem.
>

On the other hand, I see no good reason to rip a 30" wide board
down to 15", plane, then glue it back up when I can just use the
drum sander.

[-MIKE-]

On 3/30/18 10:50 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> writes:
>> On 3/30/18 10:18 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/29/2018 3:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>>>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum
>>>>>>> sander
>>>>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice,
>>>>>>> could I
>>>>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>>>>

>>>>>> I'd go for the planer.  Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral
>>>>>> head
>>>>>> segmented cutter.  Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work
>>>>>> well,
>>>>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter.  A bit louder than a sander

>>>>>> but
>>>>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>>>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>>>>> minute, even large surfaces.  About no need for a drum sander if you

>>>>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>>>>
>>>>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>>>>> to a uniform thickness.  Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>>>>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>>>>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>>>>
>>>> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the
>>>> 15" a typical
>>>> planer will handle.    The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
>>>> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).
>>>
>>> A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
>>> can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
>>> which can be done quickly with any hand sander.
>>>
>>
>> That's what I end up doing for wider panel glue-ups.
>> One glued seem is pretty easy to knock down by sanding or a card
>> scraper, which works better to avoid dips at the seem.
>>
>
> On the other hand, I see no good reason to rip a 30" wide board
> down to 15", plane, then glue it back up when I can just use the
> drum sander.
>

Was someone suggesting to do that? Probably not wise, unless you have
no other choice.
I thought we were just discussing ways to glue up wide panels.

[Leon]

On 3/30/2018 10:50 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> writes:
>> On 3/30/18 10:18 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/29/2018 3:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>>>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum
>>>>>>> sander
>>>>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice,
>>>>>>> could I
>>>>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>>>>

>>>>>> I'd go for the planer.  Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral
>>>>>> head
>>>>>> segmented cutter.  Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work
>>>>>> well,
>>>>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter.  A bit louder than a sander

>>>>>> but
>>>>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>>>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>>>>> minute, even large surfaces.  About no need for a drum sander if you

>>>>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>>>>
>>>>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>>>>> to a uniform thickness.  Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>>>>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>>>>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>>>>
>>>> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the
>>>> 15" a typical
>>>> planer will handle.    The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
>>>> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).
>>>
>>> A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
>>> can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
>>> which can be done quickly with any hand sander.
>>>
>>
>> That's what I end up doing for wider panel glue-ups.
>> One glued seem is pretty easy to knock down by sanding or a card
>> scraper, which works better to avoid dips at the seem.
>>
>
> On the other hand, I see no good reason to rip a 30" wide board
> down to 15", plane, then glue it back up when I can just use the
> drum sander.
>

Do you often see 30" wide boards? ;~)

My local supplier has 36" wide pieces of mahogany. Ripping those, to
thickness plane, would be shame.

[Scott Lurndal]

I have a few. A nice 26" 24/4 slab of Claro Walnut. A 30" wide
slice through a redwood burl (rough edge). A few wide 4/4 boards.

>
>My local supplier has 36" wide pieces of mahogany. Ripping those, to
>thickness plane, would be shame.

Indeed.

[Scott Lurndal]

The discussion was on the relative pros and cons of having only
one planer or one drum sander. As they do, it morphed along the way.

[Markem]

On Fri, 30 Mar 2018 11:18:54 -0400, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:

>A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
>can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
>which can be done quickly with any hand sander.

And with a 30" planer you can get 60" wide......

[Jack]

On 3/30/2018 11:50 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> writes:
>> On 3/30/18 10:18 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/29/2018 3:39 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
>>>>> On 3/29/2018 12:38 PM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/23/2018 8:55 PM, Meanie wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm contemplating the purchase of a bench top planer. After looking
>>>>>>> around for a used machine, I often thought about a vertical drum
>>>>>>> sander
>>>>>>> instead. Obviously, I know the difference between the two but they
>>>>>>> basically do the same thing. Therefore, seeking the sage advice,
>>>>>>> could I
>>>>>>> get by with a sander instead of a planer?
>>>>>>

>>>>>> I'd go for the planer. Moreover, I would go for one with a spiral
>>>>>> head
>>>>>> segmented cutter. Grizzly sells them rather cheap, and they work
>>>>>> well,
>>>>>> much better than a 2 or 3 knife cutter. A bit louder than a sander

>>>>>> but
>>>>>> still very quiet. Like a sander, they cut smooth regardless of grain
>>>>>> pattern/direction or knots. You can finish sand with a hand sander in a

>>>>>> minute, even large surfaces. About no need for a drum sander if you

>>>>>> have one of these as they come out ready for a quick finish sand.
>>>>>
>>>>> But to be clear, a drum sander is hard to beat when sanding thin veneers
>>>>> to a uniform thickness. Or for flattening the top and bottoms of the
>>>>> sides of small/short drawers and boxes so that one side does not stand
>>>>> higher or lower than it's mating piece.
>>>>
>>>> A drum sander can also be useful for surfacing wider surfaces than the
>>>> 15" a typical
>>>> planer will handle. The 16-32 will handle 32" wide surface and
>>>> the 22-44 a 44" wide (in two passes).
>>>
>>> A 15" planer can plane 2 perfectly flat, exact thickness 15" pieces that
>>> can be edge glued easily to 30" wide with very minimal sanding needed,
>>> which can be done quickly with any hand sander.
>>>
>>
>> That's what I end up doing for wider panel glue-ups.
>> One glued seem is pretty easy to knock down by sanding or a card
>> scraper, which works better to avoid dips at the seem.
>>
>
> On the other hand, I see no good reason to rip a 30" wide board
> down to 15", plane, then glue it back up when I can just use the
> drum sander.

On the other hand there are very good reasons to rip a 30" piece of
lumber into less than 6" widths, then glue them up into a large piece.
In fact, it is the common method of making wide boards.

[Jack]

I'll suggest it now. First, a 30" piece of lumber is unusual, but, if
found, is most likely flat sawn, and will likely warp, and is too wide
for all home jointers, planers and drum sanders. My brother scoffed up
an old 20" wide 10/4 hunk of oak a while back. I told him I'd use it
for sure but would cut it into narrow pieces first. I ended up making a
dresser out of it, and for the top. I cut 5/4 strips, 2 1/2" wide. The
flat sawn face grain became the side grain, the quarter sawn side grain
became the face grain, so essentially, it was now a quarter sawn top.
Super stable and very nice looking. The side panels and drawer faces
were also from cut down from wide and glued up for best figure. It
should be very rare for a cabinet shop to use a 30" board w/o breaking
it down unless they are doing some sort of specialty natural edge board
room table top or something like that.

[-MIKE-]

I think the point they're making is if you have a 30" wide board, you
probably aren't going to do that. You're probably going to find
something to make for which you can leave it 30" wide.
Yes, glued up panels are more stable, but solid panels are better looking.
Unless you're talking poplar or some other very plain wood.
But if you have a 30" wide board with any character to the grain at all,
it would be a shame to chop it up.

[Jack]

For me, the only reason I would want a wide board is to chop it up.
This way, you can make an entire piece of furniture, the top, styles,
rails, drawer fronts, doors, door panels from one board from one tree.
Looks good, sands the same, stains the same, is stable and so on.

Yes, I get making a 30" table top from one piece of crazy figured wood,
but rarely is that done or necessary. If you chop up one huge board for
a wide top, and are careful you can re-assemble so it looks much like
same board before you cut it up, even if using a magnifying glass to
search for seams, which no one does. Much more noticeable w/o a
magnifying glass is cupped/bowed/cracked 30" wide, one piece top. Sure
it's done, sure it's risky.