What is DeWalt/B&D radial arm saw worth?

[Jim Baumann]

I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is a
DeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says "Black and Decker" on the arm and
"DeWalt on the blade guard). The saw is at least 15 years old and shows
moderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they were
noisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate. It comes with a very
sturdy open base but no other accessaries.

Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminary
asking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age.

TIA

Jim Baumann
bau...@theonramp.net

[Jim Lokay]

I recently bought a Rockwell 10" RAS (built in 1979) in nearly perfect
condition. 2HP, heavy steel open base, 3 good blades with dampener,
table in good shape, tools and original manuals. Cuts thru 4x6 timbers
like they wern't there. I paid $125 for the setup. I have generally
seen similar offerings in the $175 neighborhood.

The latest Delta version of this saw sells for around $650 new. I think
I got an exceptional deal on mine but $400 does sound a little high. On
the other hand, if you were going to buy one anyway and don't have the
option of buying a good unit for under $200 it may beat buying a new
one.

Hope this is helpful

-Jim Lokay
Houston, TX

[FT SHOOTER]

RIDICULOUS!!! I have a twin to that saw which is in excellent cond.,which
I will sell for $150.00,plus crating,and shipping.

[Ken&Barb]

I just bought back my DeWalt 7730 RAs that I sold to a friend four years
ago. I bought it new in around 1985, sold it for $175 and bought it back
for $175. Only options were a set of Sears Castors that I added years
ago. It came with no blade. $400 is way high, $200 is more like it.

--

Regards
Ken
---------------------------

[Michael Peele]

Jim Baumann wrote:
>
> I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is a
> DeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says "Black and Decker" on the arm and
> "DeWalt on the blade guard). The saw is at least 15 years old and shows
> moderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they were
> noisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate. It comes with a very
> sturdy open base but no other accessaries.
>
> Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminary
> asking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age.
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Baumann
> bau...@theonramp.net

I paid $65 of one about 5 years ago. Mine was made in 1972.

Michael Peele

[Kipp Yeakel]

FT SHOOTER wrote:
>
> RIDICULOUS!!! I have a twin to that saw which is in excellent cond.,which
> I will sell for $150.00,plus crating,and shipping.

Where is it located? If in NY or PA I'll come get it for that price!
Kipp

[FT SHOOTER]

I am in Western Michigan.

[stei...@gmail.com]

I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price?

[Bill]

stei...@gmail.com wrote:
> I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price?

Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.
Couldn't you find any reference prices on craigslist? Since you got it
for free, it sounds like you can afford to let it go cheap (which is
what will probably happen). Good luck!

[Bill]

Bill wrote:
> stei...@gmail.com wrote:
>> I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was
>> going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as
>> it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think
>> $200 is a fair asking price?
> Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there just
> doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.

Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely responsible. But
still points out some advantages that a RAS has over a TS.

[Mike Marlow]

Your best best is to do some Craigslist and ebay searches to see what these
things are going for these days. A lot of people may may have fond memories
of maches, but that does not mean you can get the kind of money that fond
memories suggest. Reality is a whole 'nother thing. Best to look and see
what other people are getting for like items. Unfortunately, some machines
that seem like they should command more, just don't. A lot does depend on
where you are, too.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[jloomis]

Throw out a price.....200.00
I have an old Sears Radical Arm Saw....
It still sits in my shop and I never use it.
Although they do have some interesting adaptions I always liked.
They are quite dangerous, and can be lethal in the wrong hands....
john

wrote in message
news:6641383f-a831-47f1...@googlegroups.com...

[Max]

I have both and I wouldn't part with my Radial Arm saw.

[Digger]

+1

--

Digger
Bob O'Dell

[dadiOH]

<stei...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6641383f-a831-47f1...@googlegroups.com

It would be more than I would pay for that saw. If you want to go to Kent,
WA, you can buy one for $45 on Craig's List; if you want to go to Maryland,
there is one for $300.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

[dadiOH]

"Max" <thesam...@att.net> wrote in message
news:5331a998$0$32709$c3e8da3$dbd...@news.astraweb.com

Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw when you
need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

[Mike Marlow]

dadiOH wrote:

>
> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.

Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[dpb]

On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>>
>> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
>> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
>
> Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be left
to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out where
I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Occasionally when working on something large (architectural, usually,
not furniture-like) it'll get a finer blade and settings rechecked for a
precise cut but that's not it's primary job.

The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough for
heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of years as
my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a lot of work
with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual tuning.

I used it for everything from roughing out to jointing to shaping for
probably three years or so before I got the first old Craftsman jointer
and small 1/2" shaper...

The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

--

[Mike Marlow]

dpb wrote:
> On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
>>> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
>>
>> Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
>> of work.
>
> The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be
> left to deal w/ what it's for--detail stuff/precision.

So - I'd have to wonder what that means. My 12" SCMS will handle any width
of wood that I can imagine working with, but maybe you mean something else.
Of course - it cannot rip, but that's what my table saw is for.

>
> I've an old Rockwell 16" RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned
> to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out
> where I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.

Which really confuses me. That does not sound like it is a better tool than
a SCMS.

> The little 10" B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough
> for heavy work...Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of
> years as my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a
> lot of work with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual
> tuning.

First off - B&D - not a good standard for conversation. Then... 10" - I
never thought that there would be such a difference between 10" and 12"
until I moved to a 12" SCMS. What a world of difference. As for the tuning
requirement - that's what got me to buy a new SCMS. My 10" Craftsman just
could not be tuned to a reliable level. So - I bought a new one and went to
12". I cannot begin to express how much more reliable and repeatable this
saw is than my Craftsman ever was. It's like going to an entirely different
tool.

>
> The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

I agree on that point. I just don't see the need for an RAS in this day and
age of SCMS.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[woodchucker]

Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I
moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me
b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did. But luckily they were not
in the path, but it was totally unexpected. It pushed out harder than
ever b4. I don't consider the sliding miter to be a precision cutting
machine. I consider it roughing as well. I do sometimes use it for
finish cuts.. but not since I broke mine.. Now i want a new one.. but
not bad enough yet.

--
Jeff

[Max]

On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> dadiOH wrote:
>
>>
>> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
>> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
>
> Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.
>

I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one that
gives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.

1st one was an 8" Bosch, 2nd another Bosch but 10".

I blamed the blades until I replaced the blade on the 10" with a Forrest
blade; much better but still not as good as the RAS (with a Forrest)
I only do straight (90°) cross cuts on the RAS and use the Milwaukee for
miters.

As usual...YMMV. ;-)

[Max]

On 3/25/2014 2:05 PM, dpb wrote:

> The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.

My 30 some odd years of experience with an RAS leads me to agree.

[Mike Marlow]

woodchucker wrote:

> Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I
> moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
> quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me
> b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible,
then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to start
with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that most of the
complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed
to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for
ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.



--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Mike Marlow]

Max wrote:
> On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
>>> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
>>
>> Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type
>> of work.
>
> I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one
> that gives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.
>

Holy Cow - this really has to be a blade or a saw thing. I bought a HF 12"
SCMS and I have no complaint at all about splinters, etc. Absolutely smooth
cuts, dead on cut.


>
> As usual...YMMV. ;-)

Yup - aint that just the way it seems to go...

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Morgans]

"Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote

. It seems to me that most of the
> complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
> opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for
> ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.

Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

[Lew Hodgett]

woodchucker wrote:

>> Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
>> I
>> moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it, and
>> quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward
>> me
>> b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.

---------------------------------------------

"Mike Marlow" wrote:


> I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
> possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
> place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me
> that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad
> user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except
> for turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has
> some inherant problems.

----------------------------------------------------
If you ever take a WMT (Wood Mfg Technology) class at Cerritos
Community College, you will find a single 16" RAS that has been around
for a few years.

The ONLY thing you are allowed to do with it is cross cut rough
stock to rough length.

Makes a lot of sense to me.

BTW, they replaced 8-9 Unisaw, General, PM66 table saws a
couple of years ago.

Lew

[Doug Winterburn]

On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote
>
> . It seems to me that most of the
>> complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
>> opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
>> for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.
>
> Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
> activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.

I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[Doug Winterburn]

On 03/25/2014 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote
>>
>> . It seems to me that most of the
>>> complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
>>> opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
>>> for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.
>>
>> Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
>> activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.
>
> I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
> on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
> about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
> with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
> hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
> important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
> any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
> a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
> RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.
>
>

That'd be "hand wringing"

[Morgans]

"Doug Winterburn" <dlwint...@yahoo.com> wrote >> I really don't

understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
>> on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
>> about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
>> with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
>> hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
>> important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
>> any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
>> a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
>> RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.
>>
>>
> That'd be "hand wringing"

All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain as
the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and have it
try to pull your hand into the blade.

[Doug Winterburn]

How can your hand be pulled into the blade when you are feeding against
the blade rotation? If anything, the blade would try to push the wood
back against the direction of feed.

[Scott Lurndal]

"Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> writes:
>dadiOH wrote:
>
>>
>> Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw
>> when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
>
>Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.

One area where a RAS beats the SCMS is when crosscutting dadoes.

[-MIKE-]

Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time...
even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported "experts."

A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the
most popular tools made and used today.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

[-MIKE-]

On 3/25/14, 7:34 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 03/25/2014 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
>> On 03/25/2014 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote
>>>
>>> . It seems to me that most of the
>>>> complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as
>>>> opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw
>>>> for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.
>>>
>>> Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited
>>> activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.
>>
>> I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
>> on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
>> about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
>> with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
>> hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
>> important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
>> any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
>> a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
>> RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.
>>
>>
> That'd be "hand wringing"
>
>

How about the period at the end of your sentence?

(This was about as useless and condescending as your post.)

[woodchucker]

On 3/26/2014 11:06 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> woodchucker wrote:
>>
>>> Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When
>>> I moved in here, I bought a used 10". I mounted a dado set in it,
>>> and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race
>>> toward me b4. but I could have lost fingers when it did.
>>
>> I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were
>> possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong
>> place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that
>> most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user
>> practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for
>> turning the saw for ripping.Then... I do believe the saw has some
>> inherant problems.
>>
>
> Very true. I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time...
> even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported "experts."
>
> A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the
> most popular tools made and used today.
>
>

Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.

When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.

Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.

It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

--
Jeff

[-MIKE-]

On 3/25/14, 11:05 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Doug Winterburn" <dlwint...@yahoo.com> wrote >> I really don't
> understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm
>>> on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for
>>> about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping
>>> with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the
>>> hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most
>>> important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me
>>> any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or
>>> a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the
>>> RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.
>>>
>>>
>> That'd be "hand wringing"
>
> All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain
> as the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and
> have it try to pull your hand into the blade.
>

Why is your hand in the path of the blade?
Same thing could be said of the table saw.

[-MIKE-]

I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
you and up.

[Max]

Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.

[Mike Marlow]

Up to the point where you're working with extremely wide boards, I don't see
this being the case. I can easily set the depth of my SCMS to plow dados up
to 14" wide.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Scott Lurndal]

I don't believe that the arbor on my DeWalt 12" SCMS is long enough to
mount a dado blade, unlike the RAS.

I suppose one could make repeated cuts with the SCMS, but not on a 14"
wide panel side.

[Markem]

On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker <nos...@nospam.com>
wrote:

>Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.
>
>When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.
>
>Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado that
>made me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,
>since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the saw
>showed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cut
>didn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.
>
>It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

Was the dado sharp? Just wondering if you had figured anything out as
to why.

Mark

[woodchucker]

It was brand new at that point.
I figured for the width it was too much even though the depth was
shallow, it give it a lot of bite. Not an issue with a table saw...
but big issue with a RAS.

This was 12-13 years ago, so the result is fresh, but the details less
than.. I had planned on taking multiple cuts to get to depth, but that
did not happen. I wound up if I remember doing the rest w/o a dado, and
just went full depth and chiseled the waste.. but hell if it didn't get
some notice...


--
Jeff

[Mike Marlow]

You are correct - I cannot mount a dado blade. But I can make repeated
cuts, and I'm not opposed to doing that. On my SCMS, I can cut a 14"
board. Not all SCMS's will make that width of cut.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker <nos...@nospam.com>
wrote:

I had my Craftsman come at me twice and stopped *dead* once (with a
bent blade), when crosscutting. Scared the bejesuz out of me all
three times.

>It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.

Yep. My hands were well out of the way but it was still time for new
shorts.

[Morgans]

"-MIKE-" <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote

>
> I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
> cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
> probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
> you and up.
>
>
> --

I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade is
trying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the fence,
and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than to risk
throwing a chunk of wood. Really the best cut is made without splinters by
climb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of the way through.
--
Jim in NC

[Morgans]

"Max" <thesam...@att.net> wrote

>
> Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.

It is not that difficult to control. I have cut many 3/4" dados in pine 4 x
4's, 1 3/4" deep. You have to simply be ready to control the feed rate.

[woodchucker]

On 3/26/2014 10:42 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "-MIKE-" <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com> wrote
>>
>> I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling
>> cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way,
>> probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards
>> you and up.
>>
>>
>> --
> I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade
> is trying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the
> fence, and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than
> to risk throwing a chunk of wood. Really the best cut is made without
> splinters by climb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of
> the way through.

You can disagree all you want, but that's how it's designed, and that's
how it should be used.

Climb cutting is always risky. Routers, tablesaws, radial arm saw.

Now how do you figure that you risk throwing the wood as it binds
against the fence???? if you have too much hook, it will lift the wood.
if you are not against the fence it will throw the wood.

if you put the wood against the fence and clamp it down, you will have a
good safe cut. even with a blade that has too much hook.

You don't have to clamp it, you can have the clamp prevent lifting by
just hovering above the wood.

Regardless, the saw is designed to be used w/o a climb cut.


--
Jeff

[Max]

On 3/26/2014 8:46 PM, Morgans wrote:
>
>
> "Max" <thesam...@att.net> wrote
>>
>> Ya'll got more huevos that I do. I would *never* use a dado on a RAS.
>
> It is not that difficult to control. I have cut many 3/4" dados in pine
> 4 x 4's, 1 3/4" deep. You have to simply be ready to control the feed
> rate.

Generally speaking, if there are other ways to accomplish the task I'll
pick what I deem to be the safest. ;-)

[Larry Blanchard]

On Tue, 25 Mar 2014 17:49:07 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote:

> Holy Cow - this really has to be a blade or a saw thing. I bought a HF
> 12" SCMS and I have no complaint at all about splinters, etc.
> Absolutely smooth cuts, dead on cut.

I also. I did buy a 100 tooth blade and install a zero-clearance insert
and fence. I get furniture quality cuts that look like they were planed.

May not be the best SCMS in the world, but one heck of a deal for the
money.

--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014

[John Doe]

"I bought a HF..."

Figures...

--
"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net> wrote:

> Path: eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net>
> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
> Subject: Re: What is DeWalt/B&D radial arm saw worth?
> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2014 17:49:07 -0400
> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
> Lines: 31
> Message-ID: <lgstjf$dre$1 dont-email.me>
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>
>
>

[Mike Marlow]

John Doe wrote:

> "I bought a HF..."
>
> Figures...
>

Oh great - a stalker. No surprise there.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[John Doe]

what goes around comes around...

--
"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net> wrote:

> Path: eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
> From: "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net>

> Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,free.usenet,free.spirit

> Subject: Re: What is DeWalt/B&D radial arm saw worth?

> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 19:24:18 -0400

> Organization: A noiseless patient Spider

> Lines: 15
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>
> John Doe wrote:
>
>> "I bought a HF..."
>>
>> Figures...
>>
>
> Oh great - a stalker. No surprise there.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-

> mmarlowREMOVE windstream.net
>
>
>
>

[Mike Marlow]

John Doe wrote:
> what goes around comes around...
>
>

Stalker.

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Morgans]

"Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote

> Stalker.

Mike, my sincere hope is that the last post is your last response to Hoe
Doe. I have seen groups destroyed because members in good standing of a
group gave one troll the attention they desired.

Shun this fool, ignore him, and everyone else do the same. He will soon
tire and go to another group with weaker minds and weaker self disciplined
members.

[Mike Marlow]

Morgans wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <mmarlo...@windstream.net> wrote
>
>> Stalker.
>
> Mike, my sincere hope is that the last post is your last response to
> Hoe Doe. I have seen groups destroyed because members in good
> standing of a group gave one troll the attention they desired.
>
> Shun this fool, ignore him, and everyone else do the same. He will
> soon tire and go to another group with weaker minds and weaker self
> disciplined members.

Taken. Sometimes we know better, yet do things anyway...

--

-Mike-
mmarlo...@windstream.net

[Larry Blanchard]

On Sun, 06 Jul 2014 19:56:05 -0400, Morgans wrote:

> Shun this fool, ignore him, and everyone else do the same. He will soon
> tire and go to another group with weaker minds and weaker self
> disciplined members.

Or, as I just mentioned in another post, set your reader to delete
anything posted to more than 2 newsgroups.

[day...@gmail.com]

Been woodworking for over 50 years and used RAS's for all of that time. the first 40 years commercially, and the most recent 10 years as a hobbyist. Still have yet to have anything dangerous happen.

All though the years, I've heard wooder's warn of the dangers of RAS's. Most of them never used one, many used them a handful of times and almost all were never properly trained in the correct and safe use of one.

It is the reasons above that lead to so many uninformed opinions and heresay about one of the most versatile and valuable wood shop tools in American history.

When speaking valuable, the first brand that comes to mind are the better models of the DeWalt. However, there are other brands and models that can perform well if properly tuned and cared for, and operated by a trained technician who is not well known to be an idiot.

[markm...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, July 12, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Baumann wrote:
> I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is a
> DeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says "Black and Decker" on the arm and
> "DeWalt on the blade guard). The saw is at least 15 years old and shows
> moderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they were
> noisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate. It comes with a very
> sturdy open base but no other accessaries.
>
> Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminary
> asking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age.
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Baumann
> bau...@theonramp.net

I just bought a 740 in great shape for $75

[Electric Comet]

On Mon, 4 Jan 2016 09:21:09 -0800 (PST)
markm...@gmail.com wrote:

> I just bought a 740 in great shape for $75

this seems to be a good price for that saw

[Leon]

Stands to reason that the value of this saw would drop since the
original post was in 1997, 18 years ago.

[OFWW]

The post replied to was 19 years old. ;)

Let's do the time warp a gai in.

[Unquestionably Confused]

LOL! Gotta wonder what would happen if somebody posted an ad from, say,
Woodworker's Supply from that era stating there was a sale on Bessey
clamps at five for $20 or something. Would they check the date before
heading out the door?

[OFWW]

Probably via the scanner. But I wonder....Nah, I'd feel mighty guilty.
:)

[Leon]

Di it!!!! Title the post as This is a Test! LOL

[rpayn...@gmail.com]

I have a hand-me-down DeWalt 7730 for sale in the Washington, DC Area. If anyone is interested, please DM me.

[dpb]

On 12/23/2019 8:09 AM, rpayn...@gmail.com wrote:
> I have a hand-me-down DeWalt 7730 for sale in the Washington, DC
> Area. If anyone is interested, please DM me.
>

See recent thread on the alt.home.repair ng; poster by monikor G.B.
Cricket is looking...

--

[Puckdropper]

rpayn...@gmail.com wrote in
news:88775af9-11cc-4fb4...@googlegroups.com:

> I have a hand-me-down DeWalt 7730 for sale in the Washington, DC Area.
> If anyone is interested, please DM me.

Probably not a bad saw, depends on condition. I've got a 7740.

New bearings and following a tuneup guide gave me the best running saw in
my shop. I only wish my SCMS cut as nicely.

Puckdropper