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Anyone ever built an Island-like Range Hood?
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Steve
21.04.2017, 19:06:0021.04.17
an
Hi, folks-- I'm seeking some inspiration here.
To me, any plans for what I'm looking for are pretty difficult to come by. Some of you also participated in my "restoration of a tin ceiling" thread, and I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts here.
I have built an island in the middle of my kitchen. There are two 6X6" doug fir posts holding up a 8X8" doug fir beam. The distance from outside post to outside post is 66". I used 2x6" studs in there, and the electrical outlets are up to code. The height of this wall, to the bottom of a walnut butcher block bartop that I assembled from planks is 4'. (It's a convenient drywall dimension and also suitable to get over the top of a standard range.) Consider this wall, capped with butcher block, to be the island's divider.
On one side of this island will be a table top-- eat-in kitchen style, except it will be fixed to the divider wall at counter height.
On the other side of the island is my stove. Gas range with one 15" cabinet on each side. 36" range + 30" cabinets= the same 66" from outside post to post.
On the eat-in/table side of this beam is my tin ceiling that I mentioned before; On the other side, over the range is my 1/2"x4" T&G doug fir v-groove (beadboard) ceiling that I built, in part, to salvage all possible tin for the rest of the kitchen.
Keeping in mind that what separates these sides and the surfaces at ceiling level is a simple beam, and not a full wall by any stretch... my challenge is to design & build a decent looking Island Range Hood to fit my 500 CFM Broan insert. I'm looking for some design that, preferably, won't break up too much of the line of sight. I know that I need to attach this somehow to either my joists or AT LEAST the 2x2" members that I strung for my T&G ceiling-- but for obvious reasons, I would prefer to attach it to the joists.
A 6" Duct to the outside is already lying in wait above the range -- not just over the dropped soffit/T&G ceiling, but all the way up in my joist bay, 67" above the range's grates. If I should be appx. 30-34" above my range, then my hood needs to be appx. 33-37" from joist bottom to the bottom of the hood. On the other hand, the distance between my the top of my range's grates & my dropped Fir ceiling is 58". I can either "keep building" the hood all the way up to the joists, or I can stop at the ceiling and merely "duct" the rest of the way; use stringers to attach both to each other.
The hood's electrical circuit is also an easy matter.
Absolutely any thoughts on assembly, design, and/or general ideas for this thing would be appreciated. Honestly, this particular facet of my kitchen remodel has been like having writer's block for me, and I'm really not sure why. I'm just drawing a blank on where to start and how to house this thing.
Many, many thanks.
Steve
To me, any plans for what I'm looking for are pretty difficult to come by. Some of you also participated in my "restoration of a tin ceiling" thread, and I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts here.
I have built an island in the middle of my kitchen. There are two 6X6" doug fir posts holding up a 8X8" doug fir beam. The distance from outside post to outside post is 66". I used 2x6" studs in there, and the electrical outlets are up to code. The height of this wall, to the bottom of a walnut butcher block bartop that I assembled from planks is 4'. (It's a convenient drywall dimension and also suitable to get over the top of a standard range.) Consider this wall, capped with butcher block, to be the island's divider.
On one side of this island will be a table top-- eat-in kitchen style, except it will be fixed to the divider wall at counter height.
On the other side of the island is my stove. Gas range with one 15" cabinet on each side. 36" range + 30" cabinets= the same 66" from outside post to post.
On the eat-in/table side of this beam is my tin ceiling that I mentioned before; On the other side, over the range is my 1/2"x4" T&G doug fir v-groove (beadboard) ceiling that I built, in part, to salvage all possible tin for the rest of the kitchen.
Keeping in mind that what separates these sides and the surfaces at ceiling level is a simple beam, and not a full wall by any stretch... my challenge is to design & build a decent looking Island Range Hood to fit my 500 CFM Broan insert. I'm looking for some design that, preferably, won't break up too much of the line of sight. I know that I need to attach this somehow to either my joists or AT LEAST the 2x2" members that I strung for my T&G ceiling-- but for obvious reasons, I would prefer to attach it to the joists.
A 6" Duct to the outside is already lying in wait above the range -- not just over the dropped soffit/T&G ceiling, but all the way up in my joist bay, 67" above the range's grates. If I should be appx. 30-34" above my range, then my hood needs to be appx. 33-37" from joist bottom to the bottom of the hood. On the other hand, the distance between my the top of my range's grates & my dropped Fir ceiling is 58". I can either "keep building" the hood all the way up to the joists, or I can stop at the ceiling and merely "duct" the rest of the way; use stringers to attach both to each other.
The hood's electrical circuit is also an easy matter.
Absolutely any thoughts on assembly, design, and/or general ideas for this thing would be appreciated. Honestly, this particular facet of my kitchen remodel has been like having writer's block for me, and I'm really not sure why. I'm just drawing a blank on where to start and how to house this thing.
Many, many thanks.
Steve
OFWW
21.04.2017, 20:25:0721.04.17
an
On Fri, 21 Apr 2017 16:05:58 -0700 (PDT), Steve <spm...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Do you know the recommended square footage for the hood, and the
height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
efficiently with the fan you currently have?
What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
stove?
Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
fan when cooking or baking?
wrote:
height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
efficiently with the fan you currently have?
What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
stove?
Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
fan when cooking or baking?
Joseph Gwinn
22.04.2017, 17:26:3822.04.17
an
On Apr 21, 2017, Steve wrote
(in article<9095c321-6ba7-4fa2...@googlegroups.com>):
A few thoughts from when we put an addition on:
1. If it is possble to knock one’s head on the smoke hood, make sure all
corners and edges are rounded, and the assembly is tied down well enough that
it won’t be knockes loose or out of shape.
2. Make sure all things like fans can be accessed for repair without having
to break plaster.
3. Make sure that the fan is powerful enough at top setting to ensure that
almost all grease smoke exits the kitchen via the fan. This is an extension
of the more general requirement that the fan be large enough to handle the
max thermal output of the stove. If not, the cook will slowly cook.
4. Make sure that the dishwasher is large enough to accomodate the hood’s
grease-filter panels, as the filter panels must be washed from time to time,
and this typically cannot be done by hand.
Joe Gwinn
(in article<9095c321-6ba7-4fa2...@googlegroups.com>):
1. If it is possble to knock one’s head on the smoke hood, make sure all
corners and edges are rounded, and the assembly is tied down well enough that
it won’t be knockes loose or out of shape.
2. Make sure all things like fans can be accessed for repair without having
to break plaster.
3. Make sure that the fan is powerful enough at top setting to ensure that
almost all grease smoke exits the kitchen via the fan. This is an extension
of the more general requirement that the fan be large enough to handle the
max thermal output of the stove. If not, the cook will slowly cook.
4. Make sure that the dishwasher is large enough to accomodate the hood’s
grease-filter panels, as the filter panels must be washed from time to time,
and this typically cannot be done by hand.
Joe Gwinn
Steve
22.04.2017, 20:43:0622.04.17
an
On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 8:25:07 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
> Do you know the recommended square footage for the hood, and the
> height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
> efficiently with the fan you currently have?
>
> What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
> across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
> stove?
>
> Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
>
> These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
> This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
>
> Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
> fan when cooking or baking?
Thanks, OFWW-- I do know some of this info, but I'll need to look up the rest.
> Do you know the recommended square footage for the hood, and the
> height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
> efficiently with the fan you currently have?
>
> What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
> across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
> stove?
>
> Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
>
> These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
> This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
>
> Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
> fan when cooking or baking?
Height off grates, from what I can tell, can vary-- (but I'll defer to your knowledge.) I bought a bigger model (in CFM) because I wanted to keep it a little higher than the norm, help me retain those lines of sight, and reduce the risk of fire, since I'm using wood to build this thing as opposed to stainless (for example.) I think I'm looking at installation about 34" above the top of the grates...
...but now that I think about it, that statement doesn't answer the question of whether 34" is to the bottom of the insert, or the bottom of my hood's box, which I imagine extends an inch or 2 lower.
in re filters or traps... I think filters, but I'll need to refresh my memory of the exact type. Not sure about inline or canned. I'll need to look that up, frankly. Thank you for expanding my knowledge here!
Yes, the fan is intended for use over a stove... HOWEVER I will acknowledge that it was NOT intended for use in an Island. This was another reason for my up-sizing this purchase to 500 CFM. The Duct is sized properly for this unit @ 6" I understand that I'll need make up air somewhere, too.
The range is "decent sized" but by no means enormous-- it's not one of those 'residential commercial' models or anything. Samsung, 5 burners, 17,500 BTU for the largest, if I recall.
No automatic sensor.
Steve
22.04.2017, 20:50:3722.04.17
an
On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 5:26:38 PM UTC-4, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>
> A few thoughts from when we put an addition on:
>
> 1. If it is possble to knock one’s head on the smoke hood, make sure all
> corners and edges are rounded, and the assembly is tied down well enough that
> it won’t be knockes loose or out of shape.
>
> 2. Make sure all things like fans can be accessed for repair without having
> to break plaster.
>
> 3. Make sure that the fan is powerful enough at top setting to ensure that
> almost all grease smoke exits the kitchen via the fan. This is an extension
> of the more general requirement that the fan be large enough to handle the
> max thermal output of the stove. If not, the cook will slowly cook.
>
> 4. Make sure that the dishwasher is large enough to accomodate the hood’s
> grease-filter panels, as the filter panels must be washed from time to time,
> and this typically cannot be done by hand.
>
> Joe Gwinn
Hi Joe, thanks for your time, as well.
>
> A few thoughts from when we put an addition on:
>
> 1. If it is possble to knock one’s head on the smoke hood, make sure all
> corners and edges are rounded, and the assembly is tied down well enough that
> it won’t be knockes loose or out of shape.
>
> 2. Make sure all things like fans can be accessed for repair without having
> to break plaster.
>
> 3. Make sure that the fan is powerful enough at top setting to ensure that
> almost all grease smoke exits the kitchen via the fan. This is an extension
> of the more general requirement that the fan be large enough to handle the
> max thermal output of the stove. If not, the cook will slowly cook.
>
> 4. Make sure that the dishwasher is large enough to accomodate the hood’s
> grease-filter panels, as the filter panels must be washed from time to time,
> and this typically cannot be done by hand.
>
> Joe Gwinn
1) thanks for this tip. I think I'm trying to get it up higher out of range (for most heads) when the depth of the range is considered... and common sense sometimes alludes me! so I appreciate this reminder.
2) Another great point, Maybe I build in an access panel, if that won't result in a loss of suction. (I don't THINK it would, because the ducting should be sealed, no matter how big or small I build the box to hold it.)
3) I recall buying a hood-insert that will clear this range, but as I previously admitted to OFWW, I did not buy a "Island-specific" model.
4) More common sense I never considered. I think I'm good here, but I'll need to verify this fact. Thanks again.
k...@notreal.com
23.04.2017, 18:24:4923.04.17
an
On Sat, 22 Apr 2017 17:43:03 -0700 (PDT), Steve <spm...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 8:25:07 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Do you know the recommended square footage for the hood, and the
>> height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
>> efficiently with the fan you currently have?
>>
>> What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
>> across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
>> stove?
>>
>> Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
>>
>> These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
>> This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
>>
>> Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
>> fan when cooking or baking?
>
>Thanks, OFWW-- I do know some of this info, but I'll need to look up the rest.
>
>Height off grates, from what I can tell, can vary-- (but I'll defer to your knowledge.) I bought a bigger model (in CFM) because I wanted to keep it a little higher than the norm, help me retain those lines of sight, and reduce the risk of fire, since I'm using wood to build this thing as opposed to stainless (for example.) I think I'm looking at installation about 34" above the top of the grates...
Wood? Above a stove? Have you consulted the appropriate building
codes and insurance underwriters? This sounds like a disaster in the
making.
wrote:
>On Friday, April 21, 2017 at 8:25:07 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
>
>> Do you know the recommended square footage for the hood, and the
>> height off the top of the range and oven so that it can operate
>> efficiently with the fan you currently have?
>>
>> What about grease filters and grease traps? The loss of pressure
>> across the air filters, and is you fan actually rated for use above a
>> stove?
>>
>> Is it an inline fan or a canned fan?
>>
>> These are all critical factors for proper smoke/odor/heat exhaust.
>> This size of your range has a great deal to do with it.
>>
>> Will you have a heat sensor in your hood to automatically turn on the
>> fan when cooking or baking?
>
>Thanks, OFWW-- I do know some of this info, but I'll need to look up the rest.
>
>Height off grates, from what I can tell, can vary-- (but I'll defer to your knowledge.) I bought a bigger model (in CFM) because I wanted to keep it a little higher than the norm, help me retain those lines of sight, and reduce the risk of fire, since I'm using wood to build this thing as opposed to stainless (for example.) I think I'm looking at installation about 34" above the top of the grates...
codes and insurance underwriters? This sounds like a disaster in the
making.
Steve
24.04.2017, 09:04:1524.04.17
an
On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 6:24:49 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>
> Wood? Above a stove? Have you consulted the appropriate building
> codes and insurance underwriters? This sounds like a disaster in the
> making.
>
>
Yes, Wood, generally speaking, is perfectly fine above a range-- AS LONG AS you keep the appropriate distance (or greater) above the range.
>
> Wood? Above a stove? Have you consulted the appropriate building
> codes and insurance underwriters? This sounds like a disaster in the
> making.
>
>
Many times, for example, hoods are built into cabinets for a more 'seamless' look; many cabinet companies also make wooden hoods-- but they're pricey... and often shoddy. This is in part why I'm looking for plans.
You are correct to consider the question, and the IRC has considered it as well. Individual jurisdictions (State, County, Muni) also have additional requirements, but it's possible and common.
OFWW
27.04.2017, 21:20:1027.04.17
an
On Sat, 22 Apr 2017 17:43:03 -0700 (PDT), Steve <spm...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Steve, I see big problems ahead for you, One is you will need to call
Nutone and see that their fans can handle cfm wise per sq foot of open
hood space. Then you also have to factor that in with the height above
the range, between the range and opening of the hood. Otherwise the
fan might work great, it will not draw off the heat and fumes,
rendering the hoods efficiency pretty low.
Also, most all hoods I ever worked on were lined with copper or
stainless steel so they would be washable and inherently flame
resistant. A wood hood is bad as it will soak up grease, oils, and
vapors off the food products, and will also penetrate the wood over
time increasing its flammability.
Regarding filters or grease traps, the framing for those must be
metal, since with heat and grease build up on either traps or filters,
the grease runs downhill and needs a place to collect it and be
cleaned frequently. The edge of the hood should also have a trough
like this.
|
|_| so that the grease and oils trapped on the hood surace can run into
it and stop any possible dripping onto your stove or in your cooking
utensils. Essential if you do any heavy cooking. The trough can have a
slotted drain cup to pull out and clean in between major clean ups.
The of course there is the issue of lighting, covers on hot bulbs so
that they do not inadvertently ignite from the grease caught on them
while the lights are off. Turn on the lights, heat up and possible
fire. Not often, mind you, but it is a safety issue.
Your local sheet metal shop can fabricate a liners or copper, or SS,
with holes already cut for your duct, fans, lights, or electrical
connectors for you lights, complete with trough around the edges and a
5 degree slant to the drain trap box for easy cleanup. The can also
build a filter or grease trap frame for whatever you decide to use.
It can be done, just get your spec's before you design and build.
By all means call NuTone or check their web site for info, or similar
manufacturer, it is not a guessing games, Exhaust fans are rated by
duct size and length as it has to be able to pull free air and push it
through the ductwork. Measured is static inches./cfm
wrote:
Nutone and see that their fans can handle cfm wise per sq foot of open
hood space. Then you also have to factor that in with the height above
the range, between the range and opening of the hood. Otherwise the
fan might work great, it will not draw off the heat and fumes,
rendering the hoods efficiency pretty low.
Also, most all hoods I ever worked on were lined with copper or
stainless steel so they would be washable and inherently flame
resistant. A wood hood is bad as it will soak up grease, oils, and
vapors off the food products, and will also penetrate the wood over
time increasing its flammability.
Regarding filters or grease traps, the framing for those must be
metal, since with heat and grease build up on either traps or filters,
the grease runs downhill and needs a place to collect it and be
cleaned frequently. The edge of the hood should also have a trough
like this.
|
|_| so that the grease and oils trapped on the hood surace can run into
it and stop any possible dripping onto your stove or in your cooking
utensils. Essential if you do any heavy cooking. The trough can have a
slotted drain cup to pull out and clean in between major clean ups.
The of course there is the issue of lighting, covers on hot bulbs so
that they do not inadvertently ignite from the grease caught on them
while the lights are off. Turn on the lights, heat up and possible
fire. Not often, mind you, but it is a safety issue.
Your local sheet metal shop can fabricate a liners or copper, or SS,
with holes already cut for your duct, fans, lights, or electrical
connectors for you lights, complete with trough around the edges and a
5 degree slant to the drain trap box for easy cleanup. The can also
build a filter or grease trap frame for whatever you decide to use.
It can be done, just get your spec's before you design and build.
By all means call NuTone or check their web site for info, or similar
manufacturer, it is not a guessing games, Exhaust fans are rated by
duct size and length as it has to be able to pull free air and push it
through the ductwork. Measured is static inches./cfm
Steve
01.05.2017, 11:23:4701.05.17
an
thanks again,
Steve
peter
07.09.2017, 20:14:0907.09.17
an
replying to Steve, peter wrote:
If you raise the hood up grease will go all over the house. It only goes up so
far before it migrates into the room.. If line of sight is important then a
down draft will accomplish that. An island hood is a structural member,
costly and will hinder viability in the room. It just will..They do sell some
that are glass and have a smaller profile. Remember a hood from the ceiling
need a lot of support.. Higher you go more grease all over the home. Down
drafts are less efficent, they just are, and yet give best line of sight..
Island hood are costly due to its now structural. Plus you need room around
the duct for fire code go ask inspector. Is this really worth your time. Do
other projects pony up for a designed hood that will increase your line of
sight.. Sometimes its cheaper to spend then fitting a square peg into a round
hole. Plus a bigger hood fan will need replacement air IE you must open a
window to have the necessary draft. Or the air will pull from all the holes in
your home... Bigger is not always better. Remember higher you go more grease
will not go up that high.. Sold kitchens for years,, reason you dont see many
islands its because of the line of sight.. Open = no overhead hood... down
draft and live with the extra cleaning.. 12 inch line or more needed..
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/anyone-ever-built-an-island-like-range-hood-808022-.htm
If you raise the hood up grease will go all over the house. It only goes up so
far before it migrates into the room.. If line of sight is important then a
down draft will accomplish that. An island hood is a structural member,
costly and will hinder viability in the room. It just will..They do sell some
that are glass and have a smaller profile. Remember a hood from the ceiling
need a lot of support.. Higher you go more grease all over the home. Down
drafts are less efficent, they just are, and yet give best line of sight..
Island hood are costly due to its now structural. Plus you need room around
the duct for fire code go ask inspector. Is this really worth your time. Do
other projects pony up for a designed hood that will increase your line of
sight.. Sometimes its cheaper to spend then fitting a square peg into a round
hole. Plus a bigger hood fan will need replacement air IE you must open a
window to have the necessary draft. Or the air will pull from all the holes in
your home... Bigger is not always better. Remember higher you go more grease
will not go up that high.. Sold kitchens for years,, reason you dont see many
islands its because of the line of sight.. Open = no overhead hood... down
draft and live with the extra cleaning.. 12 inch line or more needed..
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/anyone-ever-built-an-island-like-range-hood-808022-.htm
peter
07.09.2017, 20:14:1507.09.17
an
replying to Steve, peter wrote:
Metal is inside of the cabinet the wood is designed around a commercial hood
or something to that effect. All comes down to the town and the inspector.
they will tell you the approved distances material etc. Like gas has to be
direct vented to the outside in my area.. The metal exhaust has to be encased
in the upper cabinets or you will fail inspection.. Plus if you do not get
inspection and a fire your insurance will probably not pay. Its illegal..
Permit office will have all info you must follow..
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