Need recommendations for pneumatic construction stapler

[Ignoramus20263]

I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i

[Terry Coombs]

  I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .

--
Snag
Ain't no dollar sign on
peace of mind - Zac Brown

[Leon]

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:

Well none will break the bank if the fail but if you need something
that will last and be rebuildable I would go with the brands that have
been making pneumatic guns for years on end.

A little extra money might yield an easier to use gun and a more
comfortable to use gun.

I would suggest, in no certain order, Bostitch, Hitachi, Senco.

[ChairMan]

Find a old Senco M11. I've had one for 40 yrs

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Senco-Model-M2-Pneumatic-7-16-Crown-Stapler-16-GA-1-3-8-2-Leg-120-Ps/253470553864?hash=item3b0405b708:g:AOAAAOSwcFFang8P

[DerbyDad03]

Other than longevity, how does it compare to more modern staplers? Features, weight, ease of
loading, etc?

[Leon]

Generally speaking, I have a Secno SFN1 finish nailer. It is about 29
years old and has been rebuilt, inexpensively, two times so it is not
obsolete.
I have a total of 6 guns every one is a different brand and each is not a
duplicate in function

The Senco is the oldest and IMHO feels and handles the best of all. It is
simple and mostly toolless and oilless. It looks and feels like a
finished product designed to do exactly what a finish nailer is designed to
do. None of my other guns look like it in design.

My HF stapler, Craftsman brad nailer look and feel like they came from the
same factory. My Greg pin nailer is probably my next favorite fit, finish,
feel, and balance. My Bostitch framing nailer is well built and similar to
the Senco in being unique in design but is a locomotive, big and bulky.
But it is a framer and was perfect for building fences.

OK I lied, I also have a Senco palm nailer. I bought it before the framing
nail gun used it mostly to hail Simpson joist hangers.

[nailsh...@aol.com]

If you use this in a production or semi-production environment, I would go another direction. Go to your fastener supplier and see which brands are in the shop the most, and which ones they can get parts for these days. My nail/brad supplier will take apart my guns and replace rings and "soft parts" as needed for no charge as long as I am buying fasteners from them. This can save you a ton in bench fees, etc. when you blow a seal. They will even replace the non-stock seals such as head seals if I will bring them in when I blow a cylinder seal.

The important point of this is that MY fastener guys here in my town (YMMV!) will //only work on the brands they sell for no charge//. With bench fees being $65, and seals being around $10 for a seal kit, it could add up fast if you don't pay attention.

My 0.02 would be Hitachi or Bostitch.

Robert

[Leon]

Wow your bench fees are kinda high. IIRC my Senco finish nail gun cost
me $21. to be repaired last year. Location location location I guess.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.

[Terry Coombs]

  I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

A framing nailer to build a fence?

[Terry Coombs]

  Yup , 6' cedar dogear nailed to treated 2X4's . That was a unique
fence , we used steel posts and covered both sides with rough cut cedar
. T'was a mighty fine looking fence when I finished it .

[-MIKE-]

I'm late top the party, but I recently bought DeWalt pneumatic stapler
(DWFP1838?) and couldn't be more pleased with it. It's pretty light but
powerful.

I had a job where I was making a bunch of plywood cases and shot
500-1000 staples over the course of a couple days. Not a single misfire
or jam.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

[ChairMan]

Can't really tell ya how it stacks up to new ones, I haven't
tried any. Easy loading, weight not to bad and is a beast
that keeps going. I don't use it as much as I use to and
I've rebuilt it once. My roofer buddy gave it to me years
ago. For a wide staple gun and not a nail gun, it works
great and for this particular application would be perfect.

[nailsh...@aol.com]

On Thursday, March 8, 2018 at 3:27:57 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

> Wow your bench fees are kinda high. IIRC my Senco finish nail gun cost
> me $21. to be repaired last year. Location location location I guess.

Could be. Texas Tool, Southwest Fastener and Brannon's don't want general public business. I have talked to many a butt hurt hobbyist that takes in their ancient gun that has been out of production for decades and is pissed off because the fastener guys don't want to even take a look. They know that if they take off the head to replace the cylinder seals most likely the head seals will start to leak. I have two guns that do this now, BTW. So for them, too much hassle.

If I buy enough nails, they will waive the bench fee. And like I said, if it is soft parts, there is no charge for installation and even for parts. BUT, they don't want a hobby guy that buys one box of nails or brads every couple of years to do anything more than that. The fastener companies around here are built on volume.

So much so, that Brannon's, one of the oldest fastener supply companies in Texas is here, and if they didn't sell you the gun, they won't work on it!

Gotta be good to be independent.

Robert

[Leon]

Obviously where you are going nail sales are much more profitable than
rebuilding guns. And when they do rebuild a gun they only want to work on
ones that they sell and have parts for. Totally understand that strategy.


Decades ago in Houston The new car dealers service departments would put
vehicles from other dealers behind in line to those that bought the vehicle
from their dealership. These days there are so many dealerships and
competition the dealers do not care where you bought the vehicle, you are
treated the same.

[Leon]

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

[Terry Coombs]

This gun also shoots smaller nails - I used 8d to do the wall sheathing
, floor , and roof decking .

[nailsh...@aol.com]

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 9:34:21 AM UTC-6, Terry Coombs wrote:

> This gun also shoots smaller nails - I used 8d to do the wall sheathing
> , floor , and roof decking .

When I only had a couple of guns, my old Bostitch framer had to do pretty much everything. It shot nails as small as 6d so I could use it to install the fence pickets as well. Cedar cross pieces were usually 1 5/8" to nearly 2" thick, and pickets were a solid 3/4".

Now, the materials are different, and the pickets are frequently 1/2" to 5/8" where commonly available. I can still get 1" pickets, but they are stupid expensive to me for that extra 1/8" and don't seem to hold up any better than their skinny counterparts. And we all use pressure treated cross pieces and frame components that shrink down to as small as 1 3/8" in some cases after drying.

Robert

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:26:40 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Sounds like huge overkill. I have a siding/fencing nailer for such
and use stainless ringshank nails. Are ringshanks available for
framing nailers?

[k...@notreal.com]

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.

[Leon]

Well steel posts do not rot like cedar and treated do in clay soil along
the gulf coast. And 2x4 and 6" pickets is standard fare here also.

Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.

[Leon]

I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

[DerbyDad03]

A few years ago I needed a new snowblower. (Google it if you don't know what those are ;-) )

I wanted an Ariens, which can be bought at HD or at independents for the same price, since
Ariens sets the price. I was talking to the guy at one of the independents and he said "We do
the warranty work for HD. Besides the extra time to get the machine from them and back to
them, which machines do you think we work on first, our customer's or their's?"

I bought it from the indy.

[k...@notreal.com]

I generally try not to shoot nails into steel posts. ;-)

>Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.

I've never seen them.

[k...@notreal.com]

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

[Terry Coombs]

  Ring shanks are pretty common in collated nails ... just because you
haven't seen them doesn't mean squat . As far as shooting nails into
steel , it's actually pretty common . Not with a pneumatic unit of
course , for that I use a powder actuated tool .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:03:40 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Collated nails, sure, I use them in my siding/fencing nailer. But for
a framing nailer?

[Terry Coombs]

  I built what the customer wanted . He's payin' for it , I'm doing
what he wants - within reason and the law . I also rebuilt his deck ,
and did a lot of other small jobs for him . Had several customers in
that circle of friends , and they all lived in that same general
neighborhood . A handyman that has multiple skills can pretty much write
his own ticket in some places . North Midtown Memphis is one of them .
Word gets out and a guy can make a decent living doing home repairs .

[Terry Coombs]

Just what kind of nails were you expecting ? These are full round head
nails and come in 21° strips held together with a plastic material .
Others are 30° clip heads and held together in a strip with strips of
paper . The ones for my P-C finish nailers are a straight strip held
together with some kind of glue . What are you calling collated nails ,
coils held with wire ?

[-MIKE-]

I have 2 or 3 sizes in my collection.
Have you ever googled anything? :-p

[Leon]

On 3/9/2018 9:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Yeah! but steel posts rarely have to be replaced. Not so with wood
posts "down here". If the pickets are about toast, the posts will not
generally last much longer. It is a bad idea to replace only pickets
and rails even if the posts seem sound. The posts poop out 3~5 years
later. ;~(

>
>> Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.
>
> I've never seen them.
>

IIRC I have to buy from a trades store.

[Leon]

On 3/9/2018 10:09 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip

>>>>>
>>>> Well steel posts do not rot like cedar and treated do in clay soil along
>>>> the gulf coast. And 2x4 and 6" pickets is standard fare here also.
>>> I generally try not to shoot nails into steel posts. ;-)
>>>
>>>> Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.
>>> I've never seen them.
>>
>>   Ring shanks are pretty common in collated nails ... just because you
>> haven't seen them doesn't mean squat . As far as shooting nails into
>> steel , it's actually pretty common . Not with a pneumatic unit of
>> course , for that I use a powder actuated tool .
>
> Collated nails, sure, I use them in my siding/fencing nailer. But for
> a framing nailer?
>

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40017760264/in/dateposted-public/

[Leon]

Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

[Leon]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, we call them "Lawn Mowers" down here. :~)

>
> I wanted an Ariens, which can be bought at HD or at independents for the same price, since
> Ariens sets the price. I was talking to the guy at one of the independents and he said "We do
> the warranty work for HD. Besides the extra time to get the machine from them and back to
> them, which machines do you think we work on first, our customer's or their's?"
>
> I bought it from the indy.
>

I prefer buying from the servicer.

[Terry Coombs]

  That's the same type nails my gun uses . A lot of people don't like
the weight of the HF gun , but in many cases that added weight is an
asset . I've used a lot of guns over the years , and find that the
reduced felt recoil is a benefit - to me . Spend a day in a commercial
cabinet shop shooting boxes together with 16ga 1/2" crown staples .
You'll soon find yourself reaching for the heavier gun ...

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:24:23 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Yes, or plastic. I've never seen ringshank sticks for framing
nailers.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:30:41 -0600, -MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com>
wrote:

I _never_ use Google for anything, no. ;-) I generally only search
for things I'm looking to buy. I've never seen them when perusing the
Borg, though.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:14:52 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

I have no doubt about that. It's certainly not unique to TN. It's
probably pretty universal, at least in places where there is an active
economy.

[Terry Coombs]

  Likely because you've never looked .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).

[nailsh...@aol.com]

I have three framing nailers that I use in rotation, or as needed. Two different model Hitachis, one Bostitch.

All of them shoot from 6d (2") to 12d (3 1/4") by just changing nails. Same magazine.

Most folks have no idea what is available as far as pneumatic nails go, or what nail sizes are at their gun will shoot.

Nails not commonly available but easily ordered would be nails with certain glues, galvanized or plated, ring shanks, chrome plated, stainless Steel, and any combination.

About ten years ago I put a clay tile roof on a house (tiles about 90 years old, hand thrown) and the screed attachment spec was to use 8d stainless ring shanks nails. Took about 2 weeks to get them, but no problem once ordered.

Robert

[Leon]

Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/26859054658/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40687347222/in/dateposted-public/

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 08:53:57 -0800 (PST), "nailsh...@aol.com"
<nailsh...@aol.com> wrote:

>I have three framing nailers that I use in rotation, or as needed. Two different model Hitachis, one Bostitch.
>
>All of them shoot from 6d (2") to 12d (3 1/4") by just changing nails. Same magazine.
>
>Most folks have no idea what is available as far as pneumatic nails go, or what nail sizes are at their gun will shoot.

You're right - I didn't know. I just looked mine up (Hitachi NR90AE).
Apparently it'll do 2" to 3-1/2", 21-degree, .113" to .148" nails. I'd
always used nails on the larger end of the range. It looks like it'll
save me the price of a new siding nailer (my eBay special, Senco is
acting up). I may have to hire the job out, though. :-( I can't
postpone it another year with a garage full of siding. Getting old
isn't for sissies.

>Nails not commonly available but easily ordered would be nails with certain glues, galvanized or plated, ring shanks, chrome plated, stainless Steel, and any combination.

The ones I need (I think) are on Amazon. Not sure of the length...
<https://www.amazon.com/NailPro-Inch-0-113-Stainless-Nailers/dp/B00ANTKZSU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520702519&sr=8-1&keywords=stainless+nails+for+nail+gun+21-degree>

g

>About ten years ago I put a clay tile roof on a house (tiles about 90 years old, hand thrown) and the screed attachment spec was to use 8d stainless ring shanks nails. Took about 2 weeks to get them, but no problem once ordered.

Thanks to all for educating me!

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

>See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
>of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
>met up with.
>
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/26859054658/in/dateposted-public/
>
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40687347222/in/dateposted-public/

Yeah, that's what I'd pictured from you description. I've never seen
fence construction like that.

[Leon]

Yeah, I missed commenting on that. And there is nothing wrong with
doing that. Most people down here want their fences touching the ground
to keep small pets contained. If they can see under the fence the have
a reason to dig under the fence. ;~) And another consideration, here,
we have St. Augustine/carpet grass. It is typically pretty thick and
best kept tall, cut at 3.5+" during the dry months. To keep the picket
off of the wet morning grass so that you could weed eat under the
picket, the picket would have to be pretty high above the actual ground.

AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

[-MIKE-]

For some folks, that's too high.
Small pets can get out and small critters can get to their gardens.

But yeah. even the pre-fabbed metal fences leave the pickets a couple
inches off the ground for weed-whacking.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:07:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

We had Zoysia when we were in Alabama. That stuff is like bamboo. The
fence wasn't to keep critters in (the cats would just go over, anyway
;-).

I don't even put PT next to the ground, if there's any way around it.

>AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
>well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

But it looks like PT, against the cedar, right?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:23:58 -0600, -MIKE- <mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com>
wrote:

I've found that keeping little critters (or even quite large critters)
out of gardens is a fool's errand.

[Leon]

Yes sorry, PT everything except the pickets. I hate PT pickets, they
are hard to find dry and bow like crazy. The cedar pickets tend to hold
up much better, and look better.

[DerbyDad03]

Me either. I'm mostly familiar with the northeast, New England parts of the country. Never heard
of a rot board before.

Damn, now I gotta keep looking for one. Thanks a lot! ;-)

[Scott Lurndal]

k...@notreal.com writes:

>Sounds like huge overkill. I have a siding/fencing nailer for such
>and use stainless ringshank nails. Are ringshanks available for
>framing nailers?

I shoot 8p ring-shanks in my PC framer when laying subfloor.

[Gunner Asch]

On Wed, 07 Mar 2018 20:27:48 -0600, Ignoramus20263

<ignoram...@NOSPAM.20263.invalid> wrote:

>I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
>machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
>shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.
>
>Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
>comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.
>
>Thanks a ;lot
>
>i

Used to be pretty good stuff. No idea about now. I have a few Senco
staplers that work pretty well.

http://www.senco.com/


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[Gunner Asch]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

>On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>>> On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>

>>>>>>> On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
>>>>>>>> I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
>>>>>>>> machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
>>>>>>>> shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
>>>>>>>> comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks a ;lot
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> i

Whats a "rot board"?

Inquiring minds want to know.

[Gunner Asch]

>What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
>ground?

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)

[DerbyDad03]

I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
Even put one around my yard many years ago.

Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.

[Leon]

On 3/17/2018 10:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>>> What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
>>> ground?
>>
>> Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!
>>
>> (Grin)
>>
>>
>
> I don't know where you live, but you're at least the 3rd person, myself including, that never
> heard of a rot board. I live where it rains and snows and have seen lots of wooden fences.
> Even put one around my yard many years ago.
>
> Never heard of a rot board until it was mentioned in this thread.
>

Google, fence rot board and click on images. It is the bottom
horizontal board under the pickets.

[DerbyDad03]

I did that a while back, barely seconds after it was first mentioned in this
thread. I was wondering if it was perhaps a localized name for some part of
a fence that I was already familiar with. That was not the case.

When as I saw what it was (and what I actually expected it to be, just
going by the name) I said to myself, "Self, that's not something they do
around my area of the country, at least not to my knowledge."

As soon as the snow melts and I can actually see the bottom of people's
fences, I'll see if maybe it's something I just never noticed or noticed
and never thought about. If I have seen them before, I probably just
thought they were a design feature and never assigned any purpose to them.

[Leon]

Well it is kinda new down here, I do not recall seeing a rot board
before the 90's. Our grass down here easily grows 2~3" taller than the
bottom of the fence and humidity in the mornings is typically 90% so dew
is ever present at sun up. The bottoms of the fences rot quickly, as
cedar pickets aint what they used to be.