Rusty drill press column

[Greg Guarino]

[not my drill press]

Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

[Bill]

One of those rust removing "jellies", and a wire brush?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino <gdgu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>[not my drill press]
>
>Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
>that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Naval Jelly?

[Steve]

I owe some of you an update on my Table saw rust conversation, and will do so in short time...

What I used recently was called KRUD KUTTER: THE MUST FOR RUST! (Google it.) It's a water base; worked well AND you can leave it on as an inhibitor. I was satisfied with the results. (Ventilate well.)

That should get you to the point where you can tell what metal is good and what metal then needs to be further abrased or removed.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Empire Top Saver and steel wool. Available from woodworking suppliers
and Amazon.

[Spalted Walt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLKQz14MoZU 8-/

[DerbyDad03]

Maybe not Amazon...

Currently unavailable, they don't know when or if it will be back in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ

Maybe not anywhere...

A few forums have posts from folks that can't find it anymore.

Woodworkers Supply shows it in their website, but without an item number. I called and they
said it appears that Empire may be out of business.

If you have a source, a link would help. People seem to like it, so I'd like to try it.

[Ed Pawlowski]

That sucks. The only source I know of right now is the bottle in my
garage.

[Michael]

WD40 and steel wool.

[Leon]

I do not think Empire is in business any more.

[Leon]

+1

[dpb]

Far easier than steel wool is fine (240+) wet/dry paper or emery
cloth...can make long strip and do the back-forth pull much easier than
trying to scrub w/ steel wool. Plus, it cuts quicker.

After remove the bulk, polish with 400+ and will be good as new...

--

[k...@notreal.com]

That's a lot like work. There is a reason they don't use WD40 and
steel wool on battle ships. ;-)

[Markem]

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino <gdgu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>[not my drill press]
>
>Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
>that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Used WD40 and 0000 steel wool on a RAS column.

[notbob]

Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
the buyer's fantasies.

I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,
1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each
something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have
mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!

What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
my local sprmkt. ;)

nb

[J. Clarke]

Chipping hammers aren't any less work, they just remove more rust at a
whack.

[dpb]

On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
...

> ... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
> light lubricant in their formula, ...

WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
"Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
'50s, it is essentially the same product as always.

While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
probably better at those than it is for the original purpose. :)

--

[k...@notreal.com]

Considering that a fixed amount of rust has to be removed, I'd say
WD-40 and steel wool would be a *lot* more work.

[Steve]

On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 5:02:32 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:

>
> Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
> than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
> is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
> the buyer's fantasies.
>
> I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
> It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of viscosity,
> 1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc, though they call each
> something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
> light lubricant in their formula, since so many clueless folks have
> mis-used them as "lubricants", which they were originally NOT!
>
> What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
> my local sprmkt. ;)
>
> nb

Yup. It sells. So does Minwax and water based Primer "for wood." So do tickets to MLS Soccer matches, for that matter.

Anyway, I have a friend of a friend who likes to dip his bait into WD-40 as a fish attractant. Maybe they should market that as another!
(Ok, maybe not!)

[Ed Pawlowski]

The argument will go on forever. Most any liquid has some lubricating
properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
better job in some circumstances.

[John Grossbohlin]

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message news:or0hft$kie$1...@dont-email.me...

[not my drill press]

>Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
>that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

For this kind of rust removal I tend to use steel wool and a sticky oil like
Hoppe's gun oil. Chainsaw bar oil would probably work too... anything that
doesn't run down the column too fast and also lubricates should be fine. An
alternative I've used for heavy corrosion that pulls steel wool apart (but
doesn't justify power tools with wire brushes, etc.) is green Scotch Brite
pads and oil and then finish it up with steel wool.

[Keith Nuttle]

I would agree with this, BUT there is no indication as to the extent of
the problem. If this is a little surface rust that has not pitted the
surface the above would be a good alternative. Personally I use a very
fine sand paper.

If this drill press is rusted so bad that the surface is pitted, rust
remover may may it functionally acceptable. It it is real bad there may
be no hope to get it to be functional.



--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

[Markem]

H2O the universal solvent, also lubes.

[Just Wondering]

On 10/3/2017 11:30 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
> that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?
>

Citric acid.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Rust-with-Citric-Acid/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=citric+acid+rust+removal

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400, Greg Guarino <gdgu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>[not my drill press]
>
>Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
>that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Kero and a wire brush? Followed by fine samdpaper and a coat of
Boeshield or paste wax?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 18:42:26 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:

>On 10/3/2017 6:09 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 03-Oct-17 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> ... Also, WD40 and LPS products now DO! include a
>>> light lubricant in their formula, ...
>>
>> WD40 was _always_ a light hydrocarbon base, essentially kerosene-like
>> fraction which has quite good lubricating properties for light duty.
>> "Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when; I suspect they've had
>> to make some modifications to keep up with EPA/MSDS issues since the
>> '50s, it is essentially the same product as always.
>>
>> While it was developed specifically for another purpose, that doesn't
>> make it any less useful for many other applications; in fact it's
>> probably better at those than it is for the original purpose.  :)
>>
>> --
>>
>The argument will go on forever.

It can, and has! ;-)

>Most any liquid has some lubricating
>properties and WD does have some derivatives of oil and i will
>lubricate. That said, there are many other lubricants that may do a
>better job in some circumstances.

What I want to know is whether, or not, I need to ground my dust
collector?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Tue, 03 Oct 2017 19:00:29 -0500, Markem <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Water sex is overrated. Use KY.

[Leon]

On 10/3/2017 4:02 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2017-10-03, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 10/3/2017 2:47 PM, Michael wrote:
>
>>> WD40 and steel wool.
>
>> +1
>
> Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
> than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
> is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
> the buyer's fantasies.

Well clueless apparently you are just that. It was said, and I agreed,
WD-40 and steel wool. The steel wool cuts the rust loose and the WD-40
helps to wash it away.


YOU should reread what the OP was requesting, hint, not anything other
than removing or smoothing it down.

Jeez!!!!

[Leon]

+1

[Leon]

There are those of that have done, and the rest simply read something
somewhere and regurgitated it. ;~)

[DerbyDad03]

On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 9:10:00 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>
> What I want to know is whether, or not, I need to ground my dust
> collector?

I don't know if it needs to be grounded, but I got one heck of a static shock from my
improvised dust collection system. I have about 15' of pool vacuum hose running along
the ceiling of my shop and an adaptor that allows me to connect a standard 1.5" vacuum
hose. The pool hose runs back to the wet-dry vac in the miter saw stand. I use the small
hose for my sanders, Kreg jig and general cleanup uf of the workbench.

I was vacuuming the workbench the other day and holding the plastic end of the hose in
my right hand. I reached over the hose with my left hand and an arc jumped from the
hose to my left arm. Hurt like hell. That was the first time it happened in the few months
since I installed the long pool hose a couple of months ago. I wonder if it will happen more
often once the furnace is running and the house dries out.

[Unknown]

notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote in
news:f3ic75...@mid.individual.net:

>
> Anyone who thinks --or even agrees-- that WD40 was ever anything other
> than a "water displacement" (WD) formula (formula number 40 ....duh!)
> is totally clueless. The company jes keeps adding more stuff to fit
> the buyer's fantasies.
>
> I rarely even use WD40, preferring instead, LPS Corrosion Inhibitor.
> It also comes in 1, 2, and 3, which usta be jes different levels of
> viscosity, 1=low viscosity (LPS1=WD40), LPS2=higher viscosity, etc,
> though they call each something different, now. Also, WD40 and LPS
> products now DO! include a light lubricant in their formula, since so
> many clueless folks have mis-used them as "lubricants", which they
> were originally NOT!
>
> What the Hell! It sells!! I can even buy an aerosol can of WD40 at
> my local sprmkt. ;)
>
> nb

Thing is, it works. It doesn't work very well at times, and it doesn't
work as well as other products but it works. There's probably a can in
every garage that doesn't need it and about half of the ones that do.
(Just the way the universe works.)

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

[Unknown]

k...@notreal.com wrote in
news:p7d8tcp8vah6r6v8f...@4ax.com:

>
> Water sex is overrated. Use KY.

Would WD40 sex be better?

[whit3rd]

On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 at 10:30:43 AM UTC-7, Greg Guarino wrote:

> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
> that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Wire brush to start, and while steel wool is OK (wear gloves), it's more convenient
to use those black/brown/maroon Scotchbrite abrasive pads to get
the surface clear-ish. You don't want to remove metal, just the brittle
surface rust.

The finishing touch would be some metal polish (really, just some Mother's on
a rag), and a water wash, followed by dry and either wax or use a film-creating oil
(boiled linseed oil works). Washing is key, if there's any salt in a pit, it'll
attract water and rust again.

[notbob]

On 2017-10-03, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:


> "Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when;

It is stoddard "solvent", not "oil". Jes cuz it is a petroleum
distilate, does not make it a lubricant. Is gasoline a lubricant?

BTW, water is also considered a "solvent". ;)

nb

[Michael]

You may or may not be right. All I know is that my drill press had rust on it and it looks like new (and is staying that way) after I sprayed it with WD40 and scrubbed with some steel wool.

[Leon]

On 10/4/2017 12:12 PM, notbob wrote:
> On 2017-10-03, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>
>
>> "Stoddard oil" was essentially it way back when;
>
> It is stoddard "solvent", not "oil". Jes cuz it is a petroleum
> distilate, does not make it a lubricant. Is gasoline a lubricant?

AAMOF leaded gasoline is a lubricant.

[notbob]

On 2017-10-04, Michael <michael...@gmail.com> wrote:

> You may or may not be right. All I know is that my drill press had
> rust on it and it looks like new (and is staying that way) after I
> sprayed it with WD40 and scrubbed with some steel wool.

I'm so very happy for you (though, I suspect "scrubbed" is the
operative word, here).

Did you try Simple Green and steel wool? I know, by experience, it
will remove melted rubber (and most anything else!) from motorcycle
exhaust pipes. Jes warm the pipes enough to touch w/o being burned
and apply SG, then rub w/ 00000 steel wool. I think it even removes
the "bluing" (common to older single-tube exhausts) near the head.

Wranglerstar, a YouTube regular, has tried several rust removing
tricks. He actually recommends a regular "rust remover" (not Naval
Jelly), which he compared along side white vinegar. The "remover"
worked better, but I forget its name. ;)

nb

[k...@notreal.com]

On 04 Oct 2017 05:37:53 GMT, Puckdropper

<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>k...@notreal.com wrote in
>news:p7d8tcp8vah6r6v8f...@4ax.com:
>
>>
>> Water sex is overrated. Use KY.
>
>Would WD40 sex be better?

You're asking me?

[notbob]

On 2017-10-04, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> AAMOF leaded gasoline is a lubricant.

Actually, TEL is a fuel additive. More specifically, an "octane
booster". Jes cuz car/motorcycle magazine editors called it a
"lubricant" for 4-stroke combustion engine valve seats does not make
so. ;)

<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraethyllead>

nb

[Leon]

Just common knowledge.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

And after 2 weeks with no rain, and then a light downpour, my Ranger
thought water was a pretty good lubricant on the road too - - - -

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

The use of the term "lubricant" in this case is controversial. It
keeps the metal of the valve and the metal of the seat from
micro-welding and tearing each other apart. It is NOT a "lubricant" in
the classic sense of the word

[Unknown]

k...@notreal.com wrote in news:487atch0kpoe3srh5...@4ax.com:

I just can't imagine it...

Does rule 34 apply?

[notbob]

On 2017-10-04, cl...@snyder.on.ca <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

> The use of the term "lubricant" in this case is controversial. It
> keeps the metal of the valve and the metal of the seat from
> micro-welding and tearing each other apart. It is NOT a "lubricant"

> in the classic sense of the word.

I've oft heard the term, "cushion" used. Regardless, it is not a
synonym fer "lubricant". ;)

nb

[k...@notreal.com]

On 04 Oct 2017 21:19:32 GMT, Puckdropper

<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>k...@notreal.com wrote in news:487atch0kpoe3srh5...@4ax.com:
>
>> On 04 Oct 2017 05:37:53 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>>
>>>k...@notreal.com wrote in
>>>news:p7d8tcp8vah6r6v8f...@4ax.com:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Water sex is overrated. Use KY.
>>>
>>>Would WD40 sex be better?
>>
>> You're asking me?
>>
>
>I just can't imagine it...
>
>Does rule 34 apply?
>

Perhaps we're getting close to the line.

[k...@notreal.com]

We get a lot of that, here in Atlanta, every time it rains. People
just can't understand the basics of defensive driving.

[DerbyDad03]

If I type the word "snow" someone nearby will slide off the highway and onto the median.

Yep...there they go. Sorry about that.

[k...@notreal.com]

They absolutely freak here. If I didn't have to be on the same roads,
it would be hilarious.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 17:11:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

Less than a foot is a "light snowfall". but the first 1 inch snow
generally causes some bedlam here too.

[k...@notreal.com]

When I lived in Vermont, the first snow of the year caused all sorts
of grief. People don't have Winter tires yet and drive like they did
all Summer. It's like people didn't know it was going to snow some
day and even forgot what the stuff is. After that, snow wasn't a big
thing, until there was so much no one went anywhere (for a few hours).

[Spalted Walt]

LOL! I spent a week there one day in January '82.

http://www.cc.com/video-clips/ht297f/the-daily-show-with-jon-stewart-south-parked

[Just Wondering]

On 10/4/2017 8:34 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
> k...@notreal.com wrote:

>> On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 17:11:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote:

>>> On Wednesday, October 4, 2017, k...@notreal.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> We get a lot of that, here in Atlanta, every time it rains. People
>>>> just can't understand the basics of defensive driving.
>>>
>>> If I type the word "snow" someone nearby will slide off the highway
>>> and onto the median. Yep...there they go. Sorry about that.
>>
>> They absolutely freak here. If I didn't have to be on the
>> same roads, it would be hilarious.
>
> LOL! I spent a week there one day in January '82.
>

That reminded me of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqCZFT0TN2E

[Jack]

On 10/4/2017 1:36 PM, notbob wrote:

> Wranglerstar, a YouTube regular, has tried several rust removing
> tricks. He actually recommends a regular "rust remover" (not Naval
> Jelly), which he compared along side white vinegar. The "remover"
> worked better, but I forget its name. ;)

Wranglestar reminds me of a semi-spoiled rich kid that suddenly got
interested in DIY. Has lots of nice toys, and nicer property.

Anyway, Naval jelly works better than anything I've tried if you have
heavy rust. The video SpaltedWalt referenced using vinegar to derust a
drill press taking all night and a lot of elbow grease could have been
done, and done better, in about 20 minutes with naval jelly. Would love
to watch Leon try to derust that sucker with WD40.

I de-rusted my tools when I first got them, including the drill press
column with Naval Jel, and it worked a treat. Follow up with Bostik Top
Coat and your in like Flynn.. WD40 might work with LOTS and LOTS of
work, and steel wool, but mainly on very light rust. About anything
works on light rust.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

[k...@notreal.com]

Well, that's exactly the storm I was referring to (AKA
"Snowmageddon"). The city of Atlanta didn't bother to cancel school
that day (the schools in our area did), then released all the kids at
the same time as most of the businesses closed and sent their people
home. I can't imagine being stuck overnight on a school bus full of
2nd graders but there they were.

I live at the far edge of the "metro area" and we had 2", at most. It
took me three hours to get home (normally 25min) and I had to take the
polar route to even get there. My normal route was impassible - cars
everywhere.

[Markem]

Believe it is "in like Flint".

[Scott Lurndal]

That would be a malapropism.

Flynn[*] is the original, _In Like Flint_ is a movie (and not as good
as the first one ...)

[*] as in Errol Flynn and his underage companions.

[Markem]

On Thu, 05 Oct 2017 18:02:50 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Maybe but the master swashbuckler is not of my age, only saw him in
black n white TV on WGN.

[Brewster]

On 10/3/17 11:30 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> [not my drill press]

>
> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
> that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

Electrolysis. Same method to clean up old hand planes. Requires a car
battery charger and a bath of electrolyte (washing soda I believe)

You will need to separate out the column and place it into the solution.


-BR

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

A bit of fun on a 5 foot tall floor mounted press - I can think of a
lot of other drill presses that would make that rather challenging - -
-

[Leon]

Best to check that, the common electrolyte is sulfuric acid. That would
quickly eat away the metal too and very quickly. ;~)

[Spalted Walt]

Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> On 10/7/2017 9:30 AM, Brewster wrote:
> > On 10/3/17 11:30 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> >> [not my drill press]
> >>
> >> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
> >> that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?
> >
> >
> > Electrolysis. Same method to clean up old hand planes. Requires a car
> > battery charger and a bath of electrolyte (washing soda I believe)
> >
> > You will need to separate out the column and place it into the solution.
> >
> >
> > -BR
>
> Best to check that, the common electrolyte is sulfuric acid.

Not for rust removal...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=electrolysis+rust+removal

[Leon]

That! was what I was trying to convey.

But you left this part out.

[k...@notreal.com]

A hunk of 6" or 8" PVC drain pipe doesn't seem unreasonable. It may
take some time with a dinky car charger, though.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Derusting "electrolyte" is NEVER acid. Washing soda IS one of the
most common

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

You also need a full length electrode - - - -

[k...@notreal.com]

Rebars are cheap enough.

[Brewster]

From http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

What you need:
A non-conducting container - a large plastic bucket works really well.
Battery charger - big is better, however even one able to produce 6 to
10 amps should do. A student recently used my site as the basis for a
school project and used a computer power supply in place of battery charger.
Sacrificial electrodes. Concrete reinforcing rod works well (rebar) cut
into lengths about 4" taller than your bucket or container. Do not use
stainless steel! The results are a health hazard and illegal (more on
that later)
Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda, also called washing soda. (see below for
details)
Wire and/or cables for connecting electrodes together.
Water.
Small lengths of small chain (used to suspend the rusty parts in
solution) or some other means to suspend the part to clean into the
solution.

[notbob]

On 2017-10-07, k...@notreal.com <k...@notreal.com> wrote:

> A hunk of 6" or 8" PVC drain pipe doesn't seem unreasonable. It may
> take some time with a dinky car charger, though.

After watching a TV program of Alaskans bending wood (for a dog sled)
using nothing but a kitchen range and some wood stove exhaust piping
to steam the wood, I think most anything can be figured out. Putting
the DP column in a hacked up PVC pipe seems quite doable. Throw in
some rebar, "washing soda", and a old batter charger and you've got
it! ;)

nb

[Steve]

On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 10:33:08 AM UTC-4, Brewster wrote:
>
>
> From http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
>
>This was fascinating. thanks.

[Leon]

Yes, you would not want to use the sulfuric acid, a very common electrolyte.

[notbob]

On 2017-10-09, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

> Yes, you would not want to use the sulfuric acid, a very common electrolyte.

Mmmmm....

I seem to recall we had a small electro-polish tub filled with a
diluted sulfuric acid mixture. This was strictly for "polishing"
brand new metal parts (no rust removal). ;)

nb

[Spalted Walt]

Greg Guarino <gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> [not my drill press]
>
> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down enough
> that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table height?

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ACGSzBXKONo?autoplay=1&rel=0

[DerbyDad03]

For half a million, you could buy a heck of a lot of drill press columns. ;-)

[Electric Comet]

On Tue, 3 Oct 2017 13:30:38 -0400

Greg Guarino <gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> [not my drill press]

belongs to the neighbor of a friend to your cousin

> Any idea how to either remove the rust or at least smooth it down
> enough that the friction isn't in impediment to adjusting the table
> height?

a very stiff wire brush and water first then some emory cloth and water
and then when it is how you like it coat with mineral oil and wipe down