Re: A: How to glue polyethylene or polypropylene

[andis....@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 9 May 1995 10:00:00 UTC+3, Derrick Sarafinchan wrote:
> The easiest way to get a good bond betwwen plastics like PE is to use a
> solvent like methylene chloride (albeit harmful to your health--use fume
> hood) to soften and activate the region of bonding contact. What you do
> is apply a small amount of the solvent to both pieces and then join
> them before they dry.
>
> Alternatively, join the pieces and run a bit of the solvent along
> the region. The solent will flow between the parts and bond them.
>
> Derrick

This is plain wrong! Methylene chloride will not glue PE.

['ajde]

<andis....@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e8f506f0-21d3-43e4...@googlegroups.com...

LOL!
from 9 May 1995!

[John McCoy]

"'ajde" <4hrvoj...@gmail.com> wrote in
news:ndled8$nfr$1...@sunce.iskon.hr:

Yeah, that may be a new record for a pointless response to
an ancient post.

John

[vicker...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, 6 May 1995 08:00:00 UTC+1, Stuart Friedberg wrote:
> Here's a prospective answer (not question) for the FAQ.
>
> I am crossposting this because the question comes up with some
> regularity in several different groups. Indeed, I have been one
> to ask the question in the past (and get a useful answer), so I'm
> trying to repay the net somewhat. I have no financial interest in
> the products mentioned.
>
> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
>
> A: PE and PP are hard to glue because they have "low surface energy".
> Very crudely, they have little interest in sticking to anything
> else, including adhesives. One technique that works is to apply
> a chemical "surface activator" then use cyanoacrylate adhesives
> ("superglues"). Until recently, surface activators were not
> marketed for retail, although anyone could buy small quantities
> from a Permatex distributor like a bearing or power transmission
> industrial supply house, or from similar sources.
>
> Recently, the Locktite brand has started retail marketing of a
> product called "Plastix" that is a kit of surface activator and
> compatible cyanoacrylate adhesive. The literature for Plastix
> indicates it is suitable "even for" PE and PP.

After many hours of googling until my eyes fell out, following up false leads, companies that have closed, I have gone with 3M, whom I trust as a manufacturer. The supplier doesn't seem particularly organised, so let's see: I've ordered 3M Scotch-Weld™ High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive 4693H
from: http://www.repairproducts.co.uk/page59.htm

Another product looked promising, but I can't get it in the UK:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE

The 3M product is criminally expensive - £20 for 100 grammes. Hope it works!

[Leon]

WOW you responded to a post that is over 21 years old!

[toe...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, May 6, 1995 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Stuart Friedberg wrote:
> Here's a prospective answer (not question) for the FAQ.
>
> I am crossposting this because the question comes up with some
> regularity in several different groups. Indeed, I have been one
> to ask the question in the past (and get a useful answer), so I'm
> trying to repay the net somewhat. I have no financial interest in
> the products mentioned.
>
> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
>
> A: PE and PP are hard to glue because they have "low surface energy".
> Very crudely, they have little interest in sticking to anything
> else, including adhesives. One technique that works is to apply
> a chemical "surface activator" then use cyanoacrylate adhesives
> ("superglues"). Until recently, surface activators were not
> marketed for retail, although anyone could buy small quantities
> from a Permatex distributor like a bearing or power transmission
> industrial supply house, or from similar sources.
>
> Recently, the Locktite brand has started retail marketing of a
> product called "Plastix" that is a kit of surface activator and
> compatible cyanoacrylate adhesive. The literature for Plastix
> indicates it is suitable "even for" PE and PP.

I am at wits end and ready gnaw the sites off my handgun. If this works you have saved my life.

Good old Locktite to the rescue again.

[Spalted Walt]

On Saturday, May 6, 1995 <------<<<

>
>I am at wits end and ready gnaw the sites off my handgun. If this works you have saved my life.
>
>Good old Locktite to the rescue again.

http://www.thistothat.com/

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Pretty lame site.

[Spalted Walt]

Lame site for a lame reply to a 21yr old post.
It's all he deserves.

[1sab...@gmail.com]

Plastic eyeglass frames are not typically made from this type of plastic. Try a good quality cyanoacrylate (crazy glue). I like Loctite 401 but there are lot of good ones out there.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

With bolts and nuts.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 14 Jul 2016 06:30:02 -0700 (PDT), 1sab...@gmail.com wrote:

>Plastic eyeglass frames are not typically made from this type of plastic. Try a good quality cyanoacrylate (crazy glue). I like Loctite 401 but there are lot of good ones out there.

For eyeclass frames I used to use Ambroid cement but thenew UV Cure
resin like the stuff from Kafuter works pretty good too. It leaves a
little lump, but it is crystal clear, so doesn't show up very much.

[Unknown]

cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote in news:0sffob1u9hjmltcatilfae4l9septduhrt@
4ax.com:

> With bolts and nuts.

I've used heat welding with 4 mil polyethylene sheets. Every year after, I
bought the right size liner and didn't have to mess with it.

Asphalt roof sealer (a couple different types work) will hold PE to PE good
enough to make ice rink liner patches and repairs possible. It doesn't
really glue things together, it's more like bonded with bubble gum.
Acoustical sealant, which seems to only be sold in Canada, works well too
(so they tell me).

This is experience from ice rink building, where we have 4 things going
against us regarding liner patches: Ice, freezing cold water, being under
water, and polyethylene liners.

Puckdropper

[eileend...@gmail.com]

I don't know how to post to this so I will ask the question here. I need to adhere a tape to a polyethylene sheet that will stick it onto another surface. Since I am dealing with tape heat is out of the question. Any suggestions.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 10/3/2016 10:09 PM, byd...@yahoo.com wrote:

>>
>> Recently, the Locktite brand has started retail marketing of a
>> product called "Plastix" that is a kit of surface activator and
>> compatible cyanoacrylate adhesive. The literature for Plastix
>> indicates it is suitable "even for" PE and PP.
>
> I don't know how to post to this so I will ask the question here. I need to adhere a tape to a polyethylene sheet that will stick it onto another surface. Since I am dealing with tape heat is out of the question. Any suggestions.
>

What side of the tape has to stick to the PE sheet? With a household
iron you will be able to get the non-adhesive side of the tape to bond
to the PE and then use the sticky side to adhere to the other material.
Sandwich the tape between the sheet you want to bond to and another
release sheet. Not too hot or you just make a mess. We've done this at
work.

[monster...@gmail.com]

People often glue plastics, when they are better fused with heat. plastics generally can only glue to their same kind of plastic. you can glue a hole in a tub which absolutely no glue adheres to by melting a piece of itself to itself. ideally though the temperature has to be very controlled and not flame temperature, so if you can get it liquid in a non food oven that's good.

gluing foam is very difficult because it changes shape so fast when it heats. Although... there may be some obscure ways that work, that you can invent...

For example, if you put a layer of salt water on top of one foam layer, and then put another foam layer on it, and then put 6000 volts through it very briefly, perhaps you can make a controlled melt lightning.

please tell us how you get along.

[jo...@bugventures.com]

In found this thread dating to 1995 - That's Jurassic era or 20 years ago! But plastics don't change. Here are several points:

PE and PP are basically polymerized WAX. That's a hydrophobic, non-polar surface that repels every glue out there, period.

The main technique Ive heard of is to "flash" the surface with a propane flame and test it with water to see if it spreads. Then use a reactive glue like urethane or epoxy.

3M makes a glue #90 - I believe they say it works on PE. Spray can. I'm skeptical.

There is a BIG exception to this picture - pressure sensitive glues like duct tape, etc. They will stick to PE like crazy, BUT the bond is a tack bond and, under load, will move. BUT it is fine for many applications. 3M #72 will work there I believe, or just any sticky tape available in big box stores.

jb
jo*n at bugventures dor kom
-developers of insect traps

[jorg...@gmail.com]

Ran into this product by Tap Plastics. Looks like the answer:

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/adhesives_glues_sealants/tap_poly_weld_adhesive/435

[mikes...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, May 6, 1995 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Stuart Friedberg wrote:
> Here's a prospective answer (not question) for the FAQ.
>
> I am crossposting this because the question comes up with some
> regularity in several different groups. Indeed, I have been one
> to ask the question in the past (and get a useful answer), so I'm
> trying to repay the net somewhat. I have no financial interest in
> the products mentioned.
>
> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
>
> A: PE and PP are hard to glue because they have "low surface energy".
> Very crudely, they have little interest in sticking to anything
> else, including adhesives. One technique that works is to apply
> a chemical "surface activator" then use cyanoacrylate adhesives
> ("superglues"). Until recently, surface activators were not
> marketed for retail, although anyone could buy small quantities
> from a Permatex distributor like a bearing or power transmission
> industrial supply house, or from similar sources.
>

[mikes...@gmail.com]

In the past 10 years or so, I have worked extensively with "hot glue", including and inadvertent "oxidation even" and subjected the fumes to olfactory test. Burning hot glue smells like burning polyethylene. I expect they are one and the same with different melting temps based on the amount, quantity and quality of plasticizer. I am planning to add stainless steel casters to the base of my Igloo ice chest and will clean and roughen the surface, place thin disks of hot glue and carefully sit the very hot casters into the hot glue. I'll try to remember to post my results. Mike Sartin

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Hot glue is NOT PE. Most aree ethylene vinyl acetate. The ones that
are not are generally some fancy Styrene blend.

To get anything to stick well to PE or PP plastics, you really need to
roughen the surface to give the adhesive something to "bite" to. HDPE
is often glued to press plates with a contact adhesive after
roughening the surface with a power wire brush.

[Leon]

Answering a 22 year old comment.

[whit3rd]

On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 5:01:56 PM UTC-7, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> On Thu, 6 Jul 2017 15:09:03 -0700 (PDT), mikes...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >On Saturday, May 6, 1995 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Stuart Friedberg wrote:

> >> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?

> >In the past 10 years or so, I have worked extensively with "hot glue", including and inadvertent "oxidation even" and subjected the fumes to olfactory test. Burning hot glue smells like burning polyethylene. I expect they are one and the same ...

> Hot glue is NOT PE. Most aree ethylene vinyl acetate. The ones that
> are not are generally some fancy Styrene blend.

I think there's a wide span of formulations in the 'hot glue' category; among the
different formulations, the ones that smell like (and feel greasy like) polyethylene
are likely mainly ... polyethylene.

PVA (like ethylene vinyl acetate) is familiar as white glue, it is NOT greasy-feeling.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 6 Jul 2017 22:15:38 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Look it up - it is NOT PE. PE would make a LOUST adhesive as it
doesn't stick to anything

[khaled....@gmail.com]

On Saturday, May 6, 1995 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Stuart Friedberg wrote:

> Here's a prospective answer (not question) for the FAQ.
>
> I am crossposting this because the question comes up with some
> regularity in several different groups. Indeed, I have been one
> to ask the question in the past (and get a useful answer), so I'm
> trying to repay the net somewhat. I have no financial interest in
> the products mentioned.
>

> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
>

> A: PE and PP are hard to glue because they have "low surface energy".
> Very crudely, they have little interest in sticking to anything
> else, including adhesives. One technique that works is to apply
> a chemical "surface activator" then use cyanoacrylate adhesives
> ("superglues"). Until recently, surface activators were not
> marketed for retail, although anyone could buy small quantities
> from a Permatex distributor like a bearing or power transmission
> industrial supply house, or from similar sources.
>
> Recently, the Locktite brand has started retail marketing of a
> product called "Plastix" that is a kit of surface activator and
> compatible cyanoacrylate adhesive. The literature for Plastix
> indicates it is suitable "even for" PE and PP.

Double sided self adhesive tape works fine with thin film PE as well as scotch tape, which means that whatever adhesive deposited to the tape substrate should work,,, what remains is to figure out what is it.

[somb...@gmail.com]

Found this topic in the internet while trying to glue 2 LLDPE bubble plastic[1] together. As this thread is insanely old, Im pushing this question again here so, may be something new has emerged in these last 20 years. Anyone have any idea on how to glue this together? I tried to hot weld but the heat pops the bubbles.


[1] https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Different-colour-bubble-plastic-swimming-pool_60301488047.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.84.2b5777d2wi9gdk

[Spalted Walt]

somb...@gmail.com wrote:

> Found this topic in the internet while trying to glue 2 LLDPE bubble plastic[1] together. As this thread is insanely old, Im pushing this question again here so, may be something new has emerged in these last 20 years. Anyone have any idea on how to glue this together? I tried to hot weld but the heat pops the bubbles.
>
>
> [1] https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Different-colour-bubble-plastic-swimming-pool_60301488047.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.84.2b5777d2wi9gdk

http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/Literature/testors-modelairplaneglue1.JPG

:-D

[hmari...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, May 6, 1995 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Stuart Friedberg wrote:
> Here's a prospective answer (not question) for the FAQ.
>
> I am crossposting this because the question comes up with some
> regularity in several different groups. Indeed, I have been one
> to ask the question in the past (and get a useful answer), so I'm
> trying to repay the net somewhat. I have no financial interest in
> the products mentioned.
>
> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
>
> A: PE and PP are hard to glue because they have "low surface energy".
> Very crudely, they have little interest in sticking to anything
> else, including adhesives. One technique that works is to apply
> a chemical "surface activator" then use cyanoacrylate adhesives
> ("superglues"). Until recently, surface activators were not
> marketed for retail, although anyone could buy small quantities
> from a Permatex distributor like a bearing or power transmission
> industrial supply house, or from similar sources.
>
> Recently, the Locktite brand has started retail marketing of a
> product called "Plastix" that is a kit of surface activator and
> compatible cyanoacrylate adhesive. The literature for Plastix
> indicates it is suitable "even for" PE and PP.

I had success by lightly sanding each part then used a 2 part epoxy.

[Just Wondering]

May 6, 1995 - I doubt Stuart Friedberg has been lurking in the NG,
waiting 24 years for an answer.

[Sonny]

On Saturday, July 6, 2019 at 3:51:41 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:

> >>
> >> Q: How can you glue polyethylene or polyproplyene?
> >>

> > I had success by lightly sanding each part then used a 2 part epoxy.
>
> May 6, 1995 - I doubt Stuart Friedberg has been lurking in the NG,
> waiting 24 years for an answer.

LOL. For what it's worth, I think the 3M spray adhesive or other brand of adhesive, like Misty, would do the trick very well. These are used for auto head liners and foam products. Spray each piece, allow to dry for a minute (like contact cement), then press them together. Any adhesive you get on your hands, etc., is cleaned off with mineral spirits.

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 7 Jul 2019 20:13:29 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <cedar...@aol.com>
wrote:

just about totally useless on polypro and polyeth plastics