I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
~ how many and where?
Thanks
I will be there soon, Hopefully. ;~)
I would think that you would want them perhaps slightly more closely spaced
than the distance that the vise opens.
>> I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
>> ~ how many and where?
>I would think that you would want them perhaps slightly more closely spaced
>than the distance that the vise opens.
That thought did occur to me for the vise, but what about dog holes
for the rest of the bench? There's no vise there to allow for
adjustment.
I'm considering one or more of these from Lee Valley to allow for
universality.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=63825&cat=51&ap=1
Anywhere but into the mounting bracket of the vise :)
-Kevin
>>I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
>>~ how many and where?
>
>Anywhere but into the mounting bracket of the vise :)
But, if I did, I could use it as a sawdust collector. :)
The vise should have one or more retractable dogs. You want the dog holes
aligned with those, and spaced to something less than the total movement of
the vise.
>The vise should have one or more retractable dogs. You want the dog holes
>aligned with those, and spaced to something less than the total movement of
>the vise.
It's an older Record vise on the order of 20 years I'd guess. No
retractable dog on it. I'll have to jury rig something for it.
> I'm about to drill bench dog holes in a slab maple bench 30" x 72".
> I
>> intend to place my 12" Record vise adjacent to the left front
>> corner.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog
> holes
> ~ how many and where?
The WoodSmithShop just built a bench.
They ran then on 6" centers.
YMMV
Lew
Put a wooden chop on the movable jaw and put a dog hole in it.
Something like the one shown here:
http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/The+Holtzapffel+Workbench.aspx
Chris
>They ran then on 6" centers.
Thanks, I read about the workbench earlier here, but didn't know about
the 6" centres. I had a look through their website and couldn't find a
link to that particular episode. You got a link to it by any chance
Lew?
>Put a wooden chop on the movable jaw and put a dog hole in it.
>Something like the one shown here:
Not sure what you mean by "chop", but wooden jaws with one or two dog
holes would be entirely feasible. Thanks.
Some of these bench pups by Lee Valley would work nicely.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=31127&cat=1,41637,41645
According to the web site drawing that particular clamp has a 9-3/4"
threaded rod and 8-3/8 that is not threaded. I 'd probably go with 9"
Is that what I said ;~)
Are you talking about the one with 2x fir legs and a MDF top? That is the
one I am thinking of building. Cheap!
>
> According to the web site drawing that particular clamp has a 9-3/4"
> threaded rod and 8-3/8 that is not threaded. I 'd probably go with 9"
>
CORRECTION I'd probably go with 8".
I have a Sketchup drawing of the concept if you want. I could convert it to
pdf if you needed that but you would not get the whole experience of seeing
it from all angles.
I am probably going to build one very much like it but not quite so long or
wide. Mine is scaled down a bit.
Not really, if web site doesn't list programs, you are probably out of
luck.
Lew
> Are you talking about the one with 2x fir legs and a MDF top? That
> is the one I am thinking of building. Cheap!
Yep.
Lew
>> I'm considering one or more of these from Lee Valley to allow for
>> universality.
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=63825&cat=51&ap=1
>
>According to the web site drawing that particular clamp has a 9-3/4"
>threaded rod and 8-3/8 that is not threaded. I 'd probably go with 9"
I'll base my hole spacing on a diagonal measuring scheme and drill the
dog holes little less than the maximum adjustability of those clamps.
That will give me the most universality. It also makes sense that I
should actually buy one first and physically view it's maximum
capabilities than just going on the product's physical description ~
despite Veritas' reputation for excellence.
Sure, I'd appreciate a copy of your Sketchup design if you're going to
make on. You have my email address. Thanks
>On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:39:01 -0600, "Leon" <lcb1...@swbell.dotnet>
>wrote:
>
>>> I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
>>> ~ how many and where?
>
>>I would think that you would want them perhaps slightly more closely spaced
>>than the distance that the vise opens.
Ditto that thought. Stagger rows by half that if you want.
0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0
6.75" for 7" vise jaw
0 0 0 0 0 27x37" pattern + jaw depth.
>That thought did occur to me for the vise, but what about dog holes
>for the rest of the bench? There's no vise there to allow for
>adjustment.
Drill 'em as you need 'em. Not a prob. Got a 3/4" forstner bit?
A tubafore tee (underneath on a car jack) prevents blowouts.
>I'm considering one or more of these from Lee Valley to allow for
>universality.
>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=63825&cat=51&ap=1
Whatver for? (Sorry, Rob, but that thing's overpriced.) Get the
Wonder Pups if anything. (now cost twice what I paid for 'em!)
--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson
Good luck running with dogs in a termite barf top, Leon.
>A tubafore tee (underneath on a car jack) prevents blowouts.
That's an idea that hadn't occurred to me. I was wondering how I'll
drill interior holes where even my largest clamps would reach to
position wood against blowout.
>>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=63825&cat=51&ap=1
>
>Whatver for? (Sorry, Rob, but that thing's overpriced.) Get the
>Wonder Pups if anything. (now cost twice what I paid for 'em!)
At approximate $35 each ca, they're only half the cost of the surface
vises and certainly not as much reach. I also like that fact that you
fasten your own block attachment to the end of the surface vices,
something you can't do with the wonder dogs. I guess combination of
both would fill most anyone's needs.
When I see something like this, I wonder how people can live
without a spool welder. They're cheap and you can use flux-cored
wire to hold down cost if only used occasionally. I did
woodworking, but occasionally I'd trot out the welder and make a
fixture or work piece, while also having it handy to repair my
normal homeowner's equipment like tractor, attachments and mower.
While the Lee Valley surface gizmo looks great and would probably
be handy for some jobs, I found that when something was
specifically needed, I could fabricate what I needed faster and
cheaper (not necessarily better, though) than what I could buy.
Once used, it'd get put into a corner, on a shelf or in a closet
until needed the next time. For the very occasional use, such as
I'd have for the Lee Valley clamp/vice, a large nut, piece of
threaded rod and a piece of smooth rod for the dog hole would be
perfect. Vice Grips make a great crank handle. <grin>
--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
I too didn't find the episode Lew aluded to. However..
I figured out how to set up my (Comcast provided) DVR to record Woodsmith
every time it is shown. I didn't even have to know which days it is on.
I entered "W-O-O" and selected it from a list. Now, maybe THAT appliance
can start
earning it's keep. The first epison I watched, "sliding cabinets",
illustrated a few
interesting techniques.. The show seems to move at a pace which keeps it
interesting, and,
since it was on a PBS channel, was not broken up with commercials. In
retrospect,
maybe I'm the only one here who hasn't seen the show before...so many
channels, good stuff
gets lost in the commercial clutter.
Bill
Dang Bill welcome to the last century. LOL. I have had a DVR since 2003
and with DirecTV I connect to the internet also with a Cat 6 cable to my
router. I can down load instantly all of the shows if they are available.
IIRC it comes on or came on HGTV.
thanks~ ;!) We'll see how they work out. If they don't work I am only out
$30-$40. I really simply need more storage and more horizontal surface.
<ups...@teksavvy.com> wrote in message
news:ltr9f59l6rapff93s...@4ax.com...
>
> I'm about to drill bench dog holes in a slab maple bench 30" x 72". I
> intend to place my 12" Record vise adjacent to the left front corner.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
> ~ how many and where?
>
> Thanks
> Dang Bill welcome to the last century. LOL. I have had a DVR since 2003
> and with DirecTV I connect to the internet also with a Cat 6 cable to my
> router. I can down load instantly all of the shows if they are available.
> IIRC it comes on or came on HGTV.
>
Leon,
I have an outlet in the wall going to a splitter-> cable_modem-> router->
Network Interface (in computer) for
Internet. I also have my tv-card in my computer attached to the other half
of the splitter.
Do you know if there a way for me to download a whole show "instantly", like
you do, with this configuration?
What you describe reminds me of FTP.
Maybe what you are able to do can be credited to the (TV) software
application you are using? I am using
an open-source application ("D-scalar") to provide an interface to my legacy
tv-card.
BTW, I've collected 2 books on SketchUp: "Google SketchUp" and "Google
SketchUp Cookbook" since you helped get
me up and running with that.
Bill
>On Sat, 07 Nov 2009 11:05:31 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>A tubafore tee (underneath on a car jack) prevents blowouts.
>
>That's an idea that hadn't occurred to me. I was wondering how I'll
>drill interior holes where even my largest clamps would reach to
>position wood against blowout.
Yeah, a 6' length glued to an upright on a floor jack works well and
is safe for your billdrits.
>>>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=63825&cat=51&ap=1
>>
>>Whatver for? (Sorry, Rob, but that thing's overpriced.) Get the
>>Wonder Pups if anything. (now cost twice what I paid for 'em!)
>
>At approximate $35 each ca, they're only half the cost of the surface
>vises and certainly not as much reach.
The vise would take up most of the slack anyway, and it's much easier
to adjust. Plus, you'd get a twofer.
>I also like that fact that you
>fasten your own block attachment to the end of the surface vices,
>something you can't do with the wonder dogs. I guess combination of
>both would fill most anyone's needs.
Oh, come on. You're incapable of drillling holes in a _brass_ wonder
pup end? <g>
--
The Smart Person learns from his mistakes.
The Wise Person learns from the mistakes of others.
And then there are all the rest of us...
-----------------------------------------------------
> Leon,
>
> I have an outlet in the wall going to a splitter-> cable_modem-> router->
> Network Interface (in computer) for
> Internet. I also have my tv-card in my computer attached to the other
> half of the splitter.
>
> Do you know if there a way for me to download a whole show "instantly",
> like you do, with this configuration?
> What you describe reminds me of FTP.
Maybe. I am not a guru in this matter. I just recently was able to hook up
the DVR to the internet. It is a softare function of the DVR AND it is not
"instantly". It is a little slower than making a copy from a stand alone
DVD player to a stand alone DVD recorder. Basically it takes about 2.5
hours to record a 2 hour movie. An advantage is that if it is available you
can immediately down load it and begin watching after the progress bar
turns green from red for an uninterrupted view.
Now with that said there are many many internet sources available for free
that may have the TV show that you are looking for. Most of the major broad
cast station web sites allow you to down load their shows to your computer.
Also HULU.com is a site for free movies that you can download.
> BTW, I've collected 2 books on SketchUp: "Google SketchUp" and "Google
> SketchUp Cookbook" since you helped get
> me up and running with that.
I'll look into those. I have only purchased Sketchup for Dummies and it is
a pretty good book but/and deals with the pro version. It is a good
reference book. I knew most of what is in it.
Yesterday I found a tutorial that shows how to animate components through
svenes and layers. Basically you start an animation and it goes through the
scenes one by one and shows a drawer opening and closing. It is cool but I
am not at all sure it would be of any value unless you were trying to sell
the project to a customer and you were not around to demo it yourself. He
would have open the fial with Sketchup or Sketchup Viewer and play the
animation himself.
On a related note, make _sure_ you use the right shape holes.
There are well-known problems that arise from trying to put a square dog
in a round hole. <GRIN>
>http://www.ptreeusa.com/ttrack_list.htm
I'd have an awful tough time forcing myself to cut a long dado in my
beautiful slab maple work bench. It will be tough enough as it is to
drill dog holes and you want me to cut dado tracks???
Maybe down the road when it's full of nicks and cuts and isn't so
pristine.
>> I'm wondering if anyone has determined optimum placement for dog holes
>> ~ how many and where?
>
> Wherever you put, them they'll be right some of the time and wrong some of
> the time >-|
>
> One way is to get some aluminium "T" slot and set it into the top of the
> bench, then you can put the "dogs" where you like when you need them
I'd be worried about damaging the T-track given the amount of force
occasionally exerted with my handplanes when hogging off large amounts
of wood.
Chris
>I'd be worried about damaging the T-track given the amount of force
>occasionally exerted with my handplanes when hogging off large amounts
>of wood.
Not to worry. While I appreciate the T-Track suggestion, there's no
way I'm going to be putting them in. I'll do fine with bench dogs
(when I get them installed).
I don't know what happened but I did one sign and the lettering went through
the material. I looked on the bench and the letters and symbols are
permanantly etched into the benchtop. Luckily, I caught it before I had
done much on that sign.
I got all upset about it and agonized over a cosmetic repair. Then I
realized it was a bench top. I guess it is like that first scratch on a new
car. I now have many nicks, etc on the benchtop. The rest of the bench
looks pretty, but the top is starting to look ugly. If it gets too bad, I
can always resurface it. But it works just fine the way it is now.
That's the exact reason I used plywood when I built my CMS stand. Part
of it is used as a bench top, and there's no regrets when I screw in to
it, bang on it, route things on it and make grooves and holes and the
like. When it gets bad enough, I'll just cut another piece and replace
it.
I only wish it was deeper so I could fit some T-track on it. Guess I'll
have to cut another piece to back it.
Puckdropper
--
signature.txt not found. Please enter signature manually.
I wouldn't do it anyway. You will constantly be retrieving small items that
fall into the tracks and trying to clean the sawdust out.