Shop Vac Switch not working.

[da...@beatstudios.com]

The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know a lot about switches but i am assuming both sides should have a connection?

Secondly, just because i'm curious - why don't they just use a SPST switch?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

[Dr. Deb]

They could have, but they may have been trying to make it "safe," While you might have to modify the mounting, you can replace the switch with any switch that will carry the load.

[dpb]

On 08/24/2016 2:37 PM, da...@beatstudios.com wrote:
> The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a
> continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know a
> lot about switches but i am assuming both sides should have a connection?

Well, if you're measuring the right contacts, yes... :)

Are both pairs of contacts in use?

> Secondly, just because i'm curious - why don't they just use a SPST switch?

Presuming it's a 120V vac and not 240V, then there's only real reason to
switch the hot leg; excepting, of course, if it doesn't have a polarized
plug, either wire could be the hot one...so, they switch 'em both would
be my best guess w/o further details.




---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[Artemus]

"dpb" <no...@non.net> wrote in message news:nppjb6$gro$1...@dont-email.me...

> On 08/24/2016 2:37 PM, da...@beatstudios.com wrote:
>> The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a
>> continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know a
>> lot about switches but i am assuming both sides should have a connection?
>
> Well, if you're measuring the right contacts, yes... :)
>
> Are both pairs of contacts in use?
>
>> Secondly, just because i'm curious - why don't they just use a SPST switch?
>
> Presuming it's a 120V vac and not 240V, then there's only real reason to switch the hot leg;
> excepting, of course, if it doesn't have a polarized plug, either wire could be the hot one...so,
> they switch 'em both would be my best guess w/o further details.
>
>

My shop vac is 120V and it's switch died about 10 yrs ago. I replaced it
with a standard wall switch and it's still going strong.

Art

[dpb]

On 08/26/2016 3:55 PM, Artemus wrote:
...

> My shop vac is 120V and it's switch died about 10 yrs ago. I replaced it
> with a standard wall switch and it's still going strong.

Sure, interrupting either leg is functional; just not as safe as
both...as noted, unless it's a polarized plug, it's 50-50 as to which
will be the "hot" side any given time...

--

[Artemus]

"dpb" <no...@non.net> wrote in message news:npq7dr$q46$1...@dont-email.me...

> On 08/26/2016 3:55 PM, Artemus wrote:
> ...
>
>> My shop vac is 120V and it's switch died about 10 yrs ago. I replaced it
>> with a standard wall switch and it's still going strong.
>
> Sure, interrupting either leg is functional; just not as safe as both...as noted, unless it's a
> polarized plug, it's 50-50 as to which will be the "hot" side any given time...
>

My post was an example of a real world fix which could actually help the OP.
Not the drivel of another Safety Nazi.
The original switch was SPST and I replaced it with an SPST using the
original wiring. The plug is a 3 prong one.
Art

[dpb]

On 08/27/2016 10:45 PM, Artemus wrote:
...

> My post was an example of a real world fix which could actually help the OP.

...

The posting to which you responded was answering the OP's original
question of "why use a 2-pole instead of single-pole switch"?

Yes, granted, it only takes breaking one connection to make the switch
work; one _presumes_ there was a reason the original manufacturer of the
vac the OP has used the 2P; the likely reason for that is it uses a
nonpolarized plug.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 8/27/2016 11:01 PM, dpb wrote:

>
> The posting to which you responded was answering the OP's original
> question of "why use a 2-pole instead of single-pole switch"?
>
> Yes, granted, it only takes breaking one connection to make the switch
> work; one _presumes_ there was a reason the original manufacturer of the
> vac the OP has used the 2P; the likely reason for that is it uses a
> nonpolarized plug.
>

Could it be for the 220V versions also?

[dpb]

Possibly, OP didn't ever provide the additional info...

--

[DerbyDad03]

Isn't it a pain to carry the wall around with you when you need to use the
shop vac?

[Keith Nuttle]

If you decide to stop struggling with moving the wall with the switch to
where you are using the vacuum, you may be interested in this suggestion.

The switch is for my Shop Vac QPS10. I found the manual by searching for
Shop Vac schematics and manual

Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor
Mouser #: 540-LRA32H2FBBNN
Mfr. #: LRA32H2FBBNN
Desc.: Rocker Switches & Paddle Switches DPST BLK 10A QC TERM
RoHS: RoHS Compliant

It cost me about $10 to get two switches (One to install and a spare)
About a $1 a piece for the switch and $8 shipping and handling.

It snaps into the vacuum, but when I got it in, I realized I had it
backwards, from the markings on the sweeper.

So; on my vacuum if it is off, you do the logical and push OFF to turn
it on, It it is off you push On to turn it off. I keep explaining to my
grandson, why would you push on when it is obvious the vacuum is off.

[DerbyDad03]

A reversed switch on a wet-dry vac might not be anything more than confusing,
but I sure wouldn't leave it that way on a router or any other tool that could hurt
your grandson.

Why didn't you switch it back once you realized it was backward? Just curious...

[Keith Nuttle]

I would never leave it that way if there was a safety consideration.

While I said it just snapped in, It took a lot of fiddling to get the
wires and switch positioned correctly so the switch "Easily" snapped in.

In other words since there was no safety concerns I was to lazy to spend
another 5 minutes getting the switch out plus another 15 to 20 minutes
getting wires and switch positioned so I could "easily" pop it back in.

I also considered the possibility of damaging the switch or the housing
getting it out to re position it. (The old switch failed because it was
in pieces.)

[Electric Comet]

On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 12:37:31 da...@beatstudios.com wrote:

> The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a
> continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know

you have not said if the switch is working or not

if it is not working why not dismantle the switch and inspect it

if it is working then

[DerbyDad03]

On Sunday, August 28, 2016 at 8:45:23 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 12:37:31 da...@beatstudios.com wrote:
>
> > The switch in my shop vac is a DPST switch, when I test it with a
> > continuity tester only one side is making a connection. I don't know
>
> you have not said if the switch is working or not
>

Did you happen to notice the subject line of this thread?

[Larry Kraus]

Put the hot wires on the working side of the switch.
Put the neutral wires together with a wire nut.
Clean up the shop.

[DerbyDad03]

Eliminate the switch and use a remote.

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/images/g/yR4AAOSwxN5WVrZL/s-l225.jpg

I have a mini shop vac in the cabinet under my miter saw. The remote is
velcro'd to the saw. The hose comes though the side of the cabinet and
attaches to the saw's dust port. I also have an extra hose that I use to
extend the shop vac hose for quick cleanup of the work bench, drill
press, etc. The extension hose also reaches the dust port on my band saw.

I got the vac for $10 on Craigslist. It sure does help to keep shop
cleaner.

[krw]

I glued a magnet to a remote for my DC and keep it stuck to the side
of my Unisaur table.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/dustacces.htm

[Meanie]

DOH!