Preserving a crack

[Meanie]

I cut a slab of Black Walnut I from a small trunk I have and plan to
make a small end table. It has a check/crack which I actually want to
keep for character, but it may be too wide. Currently, the slab is 1
1/2" thick but I plan to take it down to 1 1/4" or maybe 1". I'm asking
for suggestions on how to/what to do in order to seal it and ensure it
doesn't worsen over time.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/18223943@N06/27113870456/in/dateposted-public/

Thank you

[G. Ross]

Mix up some 5 minute epoxy, add a couple drops of black dye and work
it into the crack with a small spatula. After it settles and hardens
you may have to add more to fill it level or a little above the sides.
Put masking tape on the bottom and end to keep it from running out.
That's how I repair/enhance a defect in a nice bowl. Sometimes I
add chips of turquoise and brass near the top so when it is sanded
down they show off the repair.

--
GW Ross

Oxymoron: Respectable Lawyer.

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 7:20:56 AM UTC-5, G. Ross wrote:

> Mix up some 5 minute epoxy, add a couple drops of black dye

5 minute epoxy may be too fast of setting, if he's not familiar with its application.

I'd suggest using an epoxy, like G-Flex 650-8 (4 oz kit) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8694 , with a longer (45 minute) working time. Follow GW's other taping/application instuctions.

For a 2-3 table spoon quantity of mixed epoxy, I use less than 1/4 drop of black dye (the dye from West Systems) to sufficiently blacken the epoxy. I dipped a screw driver tip into a drop of dye and mixed that amount into the epoxy mix. That amount of dye was sufficient for that amount of mix.

On the underside of your table top, you might consider installing a dutchman, as well, as I did on this walnut table top: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/20651292383/in/photostream

Sonny

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 8:06:10 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

> On the underside of your table top, you might consider installing a dutchman, as well, as I did on this walnut table top: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/20651292383/in/photostream
>

Use epoxy to attach the duchman. Once cured, sand smooth, then do your crack filling.

Sonny

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 6:44:55 AM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
> I cut a slab of Black Walnut I from a small trunk I have and plan to

> make a small end table. It has a check/crack ....., the slab is 1

> 1/2" thick but I plan to take it down to 1 1/4" or maybe 1".

Also, you might want the slab to air dry for a year (if it hasn't, already), before doing any work on it, otherwise, it may check some more.

Sonny

[Meanie]

The trunk was about 18 to 20" thick and sat for a few years. I sealed
one end, but apparently not the other very well, resulting in what you
see. I decided to use that end as to not waste and thought it would add
some character.

I am able to clamp the slab and narrow the gap/crack. Should I do so?

Out of curiosity, I have much of the walnut chips/sawdust in my shop
vac. Is there any benefit to adding that to the epoxy?

BTW, BEAUTIFUL table you did!

Thanks

[Meanie]

As I asked Sonny, I was wondering about adding some of the walnut
chips/sawdust which I planed away. Any benefit to that? Also any benefit
to narrowing the crack which I am able to do with a clamp?

Thanks

[G. Ross]

The crack was the wood's way of relieving stress. I would be hesitant
to stress it again with a clamp--it might increase the chance of
another crack enlarging later elsewhere.

Just my (ignorant) opinion.

[bnw...@gmail.com]

maybe clamp it, then install dutchmen, then fill the crack?

[Meanie]

I value your ignorant opinion more so than my own. Experience is
something to learn from.

Thanks

[dadiOH]

If you add wood dust/chips it - the crack - will wind up looking like
particle board. I'd stick to the black dye.

If you draw it together you will definitely want to add dutchmen on the
bottom.

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 10:27:27 AM UTC-5, G. Ross wrote:

> Just my (ignorant) opinion.
>

Not ignorant at all.

If you clamp the slab, to close the crack even a little, you are very likely to crack the other side, somewhere. Those transverse cut slabs just don't cooperate with clamps. I've tried closing lots of cracks, that way, mostly with cypress and ER cedar, but they seem to always crack on a back side.

You can try clamping a little, but listen to the wood closely. If you hear any sign of minute cracking, then stop.

If you stick that slab in the hot sunlight, the heat will cause it to expand and you'll hear similar minute cracking sounds. ER cedar actually makes popping sounds, more so than small cracking sounds.... I suspect because of its volume (and type?) of resin, as compared to other woods.

I wouldn't use the wood chips or sawdust. If you had very large areas of, say, decay holes on the underside, then filling those, with a sawdust mix, would work out okay. The sawdust and chips mix would trap air and the bubbles would rise to the surface and look unsightly, on the upper topside surface.

Not only air bubbles showed, but it'll be rough... hard to sand and impossible to sand as smooth as you would want your table top to be, i.e., pretty and nice looking surface.

Link is pics of a sawdust mix filling (and use of boards/slats) on the underside of a cedar table top, with decay holes/defects.....

And the topside filling with red colored epoxy, only... no sawdust. The bar clamp was used to pinch the crack closed, slightly (1/32"), before installing the dutchman. *I used too much red dye for this project. The filling was/is too red, i.e., mismatching the color of the wood.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?

Sonny

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 21 May 2016 10:19:08 -0400, Meanie <meani...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Another option is "gun drill " across the plank and install a threaded
rod which allows you to compress the wood more or less permanently,
preventing the crack from getting bigger than you want it.
Counter-bore and plug the end where the nuts are installed.

[Meanie]

Thank you. You do great work. Would you mind telling me the finish you
use on most of your work?

[Meanie]

Good point. Thank you

>
> If you draw it together you will definitely want to add dutchmen on the
> bottom.
>
>

Plan on that.

[Meanie]

Good thought. I'll consider that option.

Thank you

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 2:18:34 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:

> Thank you. You do great work. Would you mind telling me the finish you
> use on most of your work?

On the walnut and cedar table I sprayed water based Varethane Floor Finish semi gloss. Otherwise, I usually spray lacquer.

I loaded pics of the cedar table top, topside only. I didn't take pics of the underside repairs.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?

Sonny

[Sonny]

On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 2:18:34 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:

> You do great work.

Thank you. I get lucky, sometimes.

Sonny

[Swingman]

On 5/22/2016 6:32 AM, Sonny wrote:

> On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 2:18:34 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:
>
>> You do great work.

+10

> Thank you. I get lucky, sometimes.

If that's the case, remind me never to play bourre' with you, cher.

--
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[Scott Lurndal]

Meanie <meani...@gmail.com> writes:
>I cut a slab of Black Walnut I from a small trunk I have and plan to
>make a small end table. It has a check/crack which I actually want to
>keep for character, but it may be too wide. Currently, the slab is 1
>1/2" thick but I plan to take it down to 1 1/4" or maybe 1". I'm asking
>for suggestions on how to/what to do in order to seal it and ensure it
>doesn't worsen over time.
>

I typically use artists oil paints to tint the epoxy.

[Jack]

That sounds like a good idea. Wouldn't oil wood stain work also? Or any
oil paint?
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

[Bill Leonhardt]

Sorry for weighing late on this. I needed to educate myself on sharing photos.

I built a natural edge, black walnut coffee table a couple of years back. Hopefully, you can access some photos at:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPS_c0LNA6GMNTpBK_3NgexEQBMNYPk6hAgNjbml4J-AXB7UNGP9RBO6-OvR1W6DA?key=YzVSWng4RkZFaUtycmJkc1JXYXN6aUF1NXNHOW13

It had voids to fill, so I experimented with different epoxies, etc. I tried a few 5 min. epoxies, but the results were bad since I wanted it to be water clear and show the filler material. In the end, I bit the bullet and bought West epoxy and I am very happy I did.

I used an inexpensive mineral that looked like turquoise, fool’s gold and brass filings as filler material. I tried filings from a key duplicating machine, but they were too coarse, so I just filed an old brass nut. I taped the bottom of the table and filled with inexpensive filler (Bondo, I think) to about ½” from the top. I then used the filler materials with the good epoxy.

I decided to add a butterfly (Dutchman) more for interest than a fear of the crack opening up. I didn’t want to go with the traditional bowtie shape, so I did, well, a butterfly. 

My memory is a little fuzzy (getting’ old) but I’d be happy to answer questions.

Bill Leonhardt

PS I saved lots of used toner from the copy machine where I work. I thought I would use it to dye epoxy and then use that for filler. The toner wouldn’t “wet” so I don’t think this will work out.

[Sonny]

On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 9:48:52 AM UTC-5, Bill Leonhardt wrote:

> I built a natural edge, black walnut coffee table a couple of years back. Hopefully, you can access some photos at:
>
> https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPS_c0LNA6GMNTpBK_3NgexEQBMNYPk6hAgNjbml4J-AXB7UNGP9RBO6-OvR1W6DA?key=YzVSWng4RkZFaUtycmJkc1JXYXN6aUF1NXNHOW13

> I used an inexpensive mineral that looked like turquoise,

That looks nice.... like the turquoise contrast, too, nice choice. Good job.

Sonny