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Wood Plane Questions
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Puckdropper at dot
Jun 24, 2015, 12:02:22 AM6/24/15
to
I have a wooden plane, with an angled body. (I'm not sure of the exact
name.) It uses a wedge and blade with cap iron. The wedge is supported
by the outsides of the body. The wedge is similar to this one:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/blogimg/wood_mitre_C.jpg
(Photo from: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/145/Wooden%
20Mitre%20Planes%20-%20John%20Green%20c.%201800 )
The plane itself looks more like this one:
http://5.forums.drupal.assets.tauntonnet.com/sites/forums.finewoodworking
.com/files/attach_images/104263/Appleton_AS536-1_Sm_3.jpg
(Photo from: http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-
knots/hand-tools/american-wooden-plane-maker )
It appears the wedge would reduce the effective cutting width of the
iron. If I tried to take a full width of the iron shaving, it appears
the sides of the wedge would get in the way. Is this correct?
The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To get
the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene and the
wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and figured it
wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a single .040"
shim between the cap iron and wedge?
When using the plane, I get a mix of crunched shavings that clog it
quickly and when I press down harder and go faster I get a single shaving
that goes out reasonably straight. Obviously, I want to stop the
crunched shavings. How? (Do I need to take a deeper cut?) My test
piece was a piece of PT 5/4 decking that was handy. It's had several
months to dry out.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
name.) It uses a wedge and blade with cap iron. The wedge is supported
by the outsides of the body. The wedge is similar to this one:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/blogimg/wood_mitre_C.jpg
(Photo from: https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/145/Wooden%
20Mitre%20Planes%20-%20John%20Green%20c.%201800 )
The plane itself looks more like this one:
http://5.forums.drupal.assets.tauntonnet.com/sites/forums.finewoodworking
.com/files/attach_images/104263/Appleton_AS536-1_Sm_3.jpg
(Photo from: http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-
knots/hand-tools/american-wooden-plane-maker )
It appears the wedge would reduce the effective cutting width of the
iron. If I tried to take a full width of the iron shaving, it appears
the sides of the wedge would get in the way. Is this correct?
The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To get
the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene and the
wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and figured it
wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a single .040"
shim between the cap iron and wedge?
When using the plane, I get a mix of crunched shavings that clog it
quickly and when I press down harder and go faster I get a single shaving
that goes out reasonably straight. Obviously, I want to stop the
crunched shavings. How? (Do I need to take a deeper cut?) My test
piece was a piece of PT 5/4 decking that was handy. It's had several
months to dry out.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Dave Balderstone
Jun 24, 2015, 11:01:14 AM6/24/15
to
In article <558a2bcb$0$35024$b1db1813$926e...@news.astraweb.com>,
Angle the plane to lower the cutting angle.
Only the blade should protrude from the bottom of the plane, so the
wedge will have no effect on the width of the cut.
It's not uncommon to round off the corners of the blade to reduce
catches, too.
I've got a couple of Steve Knight's wooden planes (a combo jack/jointer
and a scrub) and love them. Spend some time getting a feel for
adjusting yours and you'll have great results.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
Puckdropper wrote:
> When using the plane, I get a mix of crunched shavings that clog it
> quickly and when I press down harder and go faster I get a single shaving
> that goes out reasonably straight. Obviously, I want to stop the
> crunched shavings. How? (Do I need to take a deeper cut?)
Nope. Lighter cut.
> When using the plane, I get a mix of crunched shavings that clog it
> quickly and when I press down harder and go faster I get a single shaving
> that goes out reasonably straight. Obviously, I want to stop the
> crunched shavings. How? (Do I need to take a deeper cut?)
Angle the plane to lower the cutting angle.
Only the blade should protrude from the bottom of the plane, so the
wedge will have no effect on the width of the cut.
It's not uncommon to round off the corners of the blade to reduce
catches, too.
I've got a couple of Steve Knight's wooden planes (a combo jack/jointer
and a scrub) and love them. Spend some time getting a feel for
adjusting yours and you'll have great results.
--
Splinters in my Fingers blog: <http://woodenwabbits.blogspot.com>
John Grossbohlin
Jun 24, 2015, 11:39:32 AM6/24/15
to
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
news:558a2bcb$0$35024$b1db1813$926e...@news.astraweb.com...
>The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To get
>the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene and the
>wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and figured it
>wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a single .040"
>shim between the cap iron and wedge?
It sounds like your wedge needs to be replaced if it has crushed/thinned
down so much that it sticks down below the iron when seated to hold the iron
in place...
The use issues are likely a combination of sharpening, adjustment and
technique... and I wouldn't leave out inadequate iron support due to the
wedge issue. Assuming a well sharpened iron, I'd try making a new wedge as a
first step. Then adjust the iron so it would take a fine cut... it is a
smoother after all. Regarding technique, wax the sole and slightly skew the
plane...
news:558a2bcb$0$35024$b1db1813$926e...@news.astraweb.com...
>The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To get
>the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene and the
>wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and figured it
>wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a single .040"
>shim between the cap iron and wedge?
down so much that it sticks down below the iron when seated to hold the iron
in place...
The use issues are likely a combination of sharpening, adjustment and
technique... and I wouldn't leave out inadequate iron support due to the
wedge issue. Assuming a well sharpened iron, I'd try making a new wedge as a
first step. Then adjust the iron so it would take a fine cut... it is a
smoother after all. Regarding technique, wax the sole and slightly skew the
plane...
John McCoy
Jun 24, 2015, 2:42:27 PM6/24/15
to
"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:UYydnUJFauKsUhfI...@earthlink.com:
> "Puckdropper" wrote in message
> news:558a2bcb$0$35024$b1db1813$926e...@news.astraweb.com...
>
>>The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To
>>get the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene
>>and the wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and
>>figured it wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a
>>single .040" shim between the cap iron and wedge?
>
> It sounds like your wedge needs to be replaced if it has
> crushed/thinned down so much that it sticks down below the iron when
> seated to hold the iron in place...
I agree the wedge shouldn't protrude below the sole of the
plane, but I'm not sure that's where the problem lies. The
blades of wooden planes were often tapered, much thicker at
the cutting end. It may be the blade has been sharpened so
often (or suffered a cluesless grinding) that the wedge is
now bearing on a part too thin to properly support it.
If that's the case, shimming between the iron and the plane
body is probably a better idea, since it will close the
mouth back to where it's intended to be.
John
news:UYydnUJFauKsUhfI...@earthlink.com:
> "Puckdropper" wrote in message
> news:558a2bcb$0$35024$b1db1813$926e...@news.astraweb.com...
>
>>The wedge looks like it's been compressed or worn down from use. To
>>get the plane to work, I shimmed the iron assembly with .020" styrene
>>and the wedge with another piece of .020" styrene. (I had it handy and
>>figured it wouldn't compress too badly.) Would I be better off with a
>>single .040" shim between the cap iron and wedge?
>
> It sounds like your wedge needs to be replaced if it has
> crushed/thinned down so much that it sticks down below the iron when
> seated to hold the iron in place...
plane, but I'm not sure that's where the problem lies. The
blades of wooden planes were often tapered, much thicker at
the cutting end. It may be the blade has been sharpened so
often (or suffered a cluesless grinding) that the wedge is
now bearing on a part too thin to properly support it.
If that's the case, shimming between the iron and the plane
body is probably a better idea, since it will close the
mouth back to where it's intended to be.
John
John Grossbohlin
Jun 24, 2015, 3:15:23 PM6/24/15
to
"John McCoy" wrote in message
news:XnsA4C39599746...@213.239.209.88...
Could be... without having pictures of the actual plane or having it in our
hands we're all taking our best guess based on the descriptions.
John
news:XnsA4C39599746...@213.239.209.88...
hands we're all taking our best guess based on the descriptions.
John
John McCoy
Jun 24, 2015, 6:08:48 PM6/24/15
to
"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:6MudnQRFk6pVnBbI...@earthlink.com:
Another thing that occurs to me - I have heard of planes
shrinking if they're allowed to dry out excessively (like
being stuck in a hot attic for 50 years), which would
shrink both the wedge and the plane body, killing any
hope of a proper fit. If I remember correctly, soaking
the plane (and wedge) in linseed oil is suggested as a
way to restore the wood to it's proper dimensions.
John
woodchucker
Jun 24, 2015, 6:30:46 PM6/24/15
to
touch the wood. I
--
Jeff
Puckdropper at dot
Jun 25, 2015, 3:06:57 AM6/25/15
to
"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:6MudnQRFk6pVnBbI...@earthlink.com:
> Could be... without having pictures of the actual plane or having it
> in our hands we're all taking our best guess based on the
> descriptions.
>
> John
>
The blade assembly is not tapered, it's the same design that's used in my
Stanley #5C plane: An iron and a cap iron/chip breaker.
John Grossbohlin
Jun 25, 2015, 8:30:54 AM6/25/15
to
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
news:558ba88d$0$6929$b1db1813$1f51...@news.astraweb.com...
>"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
>news:6MudnQRFk6pVnBbI...@earthlink.com:
>> Could be... without having pictures of the actual plane or having it
>> in our hands we're all taking our best guess based on the
>> descriptions.
>>
> >John
>
>I'm uploading pictures to ABPW.
>The blade assembly is not tapered, it's the same design that's used in my
>Stanley #5C plane: An iron and a cap iron/chip breaker.
That explains it... that iron is not original to the plane... it is from a
steel body plane that uses a chip breaker. The original would have had a
heavier iron with no chip breaker.
John
news:558ba88d$0$6929$b1db1813$1f51...@news.astraweb.com...
>"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
>news:6MudnQRFk6pVnBbI...@earthlink.com:
>> Could be... without having pictures of the actual plane or having it
>> in our hands we're all taking our best guess based on the
>> descriptions.
>>
> >John
>
>I'm uploading pictures to ABPW.
>The blade assembly is not tapered, it's the same design that's used in my
>Stanley #5C plane: An iron and a cap iron/chip breaker.
steel body plane that uses a chip breaker. The original would have had a
heavier iron with no chip breaker.
John
John McCoy
Jun 25, 2015, 10:55:00 AM6/25/15
to
"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:3ZidnY_DdKvhaRbI...@earthlink.com:
that use a chip breaker, they would have a different style wedge
(and generally different construction) than the picture posted
the other day.
If you wanted a correct (more or less) iron, you could likely
get one from Ron Hock.
John
John Grossbohlin
Jun 25, 2015, 11:42:19 AM6/25/15
to
"John McCoy" wrote in message
news:XnsA4C46F089C3...@213.239.209.88...
>"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
>news:3ZidnY_DdKvhaRbI...@earthlink.com:
>> "Puckdropper" wrote in message
>> news:558ba88d$0$6929$b1db1813$1f51...@news.astraweb.com...
>>
>>>"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
>>>news:6MudnQRFk6pVnBbI...@earthlink.com:
>
>>> Could be... without having pictures of the actual plane or having it
>>> in our hands we're all taking our best guess based on the
>>> descriptions.
>>>
>> >John
>
>>>The blade assembly is not tapered, it's the same design that's used in
>>>my Stanley #5C plane: An iron and a cap iron/chip breaker.
>
>
>> That explains it... that iron is not original to the plane... it is
>>from a steel body plane that uses a chip breaker. The original would
>> have had a heavier iron with no chip breaker.
>Yes, I think John G is correct. While there are wooden planes
>that use a chip breaker, they would have a different style wedge
>(and generally different construction) than the picture posted
>the other day.
>If you wanted a correct (more or less) iron, you could likely
>get one from Ron Hock.
There were transition planes that had a wooden body and a metal top
>>>my Stanley #5C plane: An iron and a cap iron/chip breaker.
>
>
>> That explains it... that iron is not original to the plane... it is
>>from a steel body plane that uses a chip breaker. The original would
>> have had a heavier iron with no chip breaker.
>Yes, I think John G is correct. While there are wooden planes
>that use a chip breaker, they would have a different style wedge
>(and generally different construction) than the picture posted
>the other day.
>If you wanted a correct (more or less) iron, you could likely
>get one from Ron Hock.
assembly. The top assembly had an adjuster and used a chip breaker that is
similar to a typical "modern" Stanley steel plane. That was a short lived
variant. I've got one sitting on my office desk at work. I've never seen an
original wooden body plane with a wedge and a chip breaker... except those
of the Frankenstein variety. ;~)
John
John McCoy
Jun 25, 2015, 4:18:12 PM6/25/15
to
"John Grossbohlin" <nospam....@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:tp-dnQjAhfvFvBHI...@earthlink.com:
> I've never seen an original wooden body plane with a wedge and a chip
> breaker... except those of the Frankenstein variety. ;~)
most common one (for older planes) has the wedge fitting into
recesses in the side of the plane (I beleive the portion of
the body it fits under is called the "buttress"). In those
the wedge is shaped like the one Puckdropper has.
The other variation has a rod across the body, and the wedge
fits under and bears against the rod. That design can and
often does have a blade assembly like a metal plane. In
those the wedge is a simple triangular shape.
John
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