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lathe -- opinions wanted
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sawdustmaker
Jul 25, 2015, 2:51:34 PM7/25/15
to
I've been wanting a lathe for some time. the price "seems" right. Opinions
( on the lathe :) )?
http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html
Thanks,
( on the lathe :) )?
http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html
Thanks,
tdacon
Jul 25, 2015, 4:00:28 PM7/25/15
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"sawdustmaker" wrote in message
news:XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22...
The lathe itself would make a reasonably good starter lathe. It's pretty
well equipped with tooling, and seems to have been kept in good shape. From
the tooling picture it looks like the headstock and tailstock have a #1
Morse taper, so you have good possibilities for other tooling. The headstock
looks like it probably has a 3/4" x 16 thread and if so you can easily find
adapters and faceplates and chucks that can hook up to that thread.
What makes it a good deal, though, is all the other stuff that comes with
it. A pretty good table, looks like - there's probably a couple hundred
dollars in labor just in the table - the grinder, and the chisels and other
stuff. That Wolverine Vari-Grind is a fairly expensive and well-liked
sharpening rig. You could actually throw the lathe away, and still feel like
you'd spent your money well.
Grab the headstock shaft by the pulleys or the spur drive and wiggle it hard
back and forth, to see if you can detect any slop in the headstock bearings.
If so it's not too tough to replace them. And you'd probably want to work
out some kind of guard for the belt.
My lathe is an even older Craftsman, the tube-type. I stripped it down and
restored it and it's working OK for me but I'll make the step up to a more
modern lathe one of these days. But right now I'm still having fun with it.
Tom
news:XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22...
well equipped with tooling, and seems to have been kept in good shape. From
the tooling picture it looks like the headstock and tailstock have a #1
Morse taper, so you have good possibilities for other tooling. The headstock
looks like it probably has a 3/4" x 16 thread and if so you can easily find
adapters and faceplates and chucks that can hook up to that thread.
What makes it a good deal, though, is all the other stuff that comes with
it. A pretty good table, looks like - there's probably a couple hundred
dollars in labor just in the table - the grinder, and the chisels and other
stuff. That Wolverine Vari-Grind is a fairly expensive and well-liked
sharpening rig. You could actually throw the lathe away, and still feel like
you'd spent your money well.
Grab the headstock shaft by the pulleys or the spur drive and wiggle it hard
back and forth, to see if you can detect any slop in the headstock bearings.
If so it's not too tough to replace them. And you'd probably want to work
out some kind of guard for the belt.
My lathe is an even older Craftsman, the tube-type. I stripped it down and
restored it and it's working OK for me but I'll make the step up to a more
modern lathe one of these days. But right now I'm still having fun with it.
Tom
Puckdropper at dot
Jul 25, 2015, 4:10:53 PM7/25/15
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sawdustmaker <sawdus...@ww.com> wrote in
news:XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22:
It's still there, posted 22 days ago? You guys must be overly rich with
wood lathes...
If around here, I'd be going to see it with $200 in my pocket.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
news:XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22:
wood lathes...
If around here, I'd be going to see it with $200 in my pocket.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Electric Comet
Jul 25, 2015, 8:51:06 PM7/25/15
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cannot see any downside at all
MOP CAP
Jul 25, 2015, 8:59:41 PM7/25/15
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On 2015-07-26 00:49:44 +0000, Electric Comet said:
>> wichita.craigslist.org
The only downside I can see is that it seems to have bronze bushings
rather than ball bearings.
Ball bearings are easy to replace. Bronze a major, especially if the
shat is scored.
CP
>> wichita.craigslist.org
The only downside I can see is that it seems to have bronze bushings
rather than ball bearings.
Ball bearings are easy to replace. Bronze a major, especially if the
shat is scored.
CP
Dan Kozar
Jul 25, 2015, 9:13:35 PM7/25/15
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In article <XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22>,
sawdustmaker <sawdus...@ww.com> wrote:
> http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html
This is a decent lathe for doing chair spindles, tool handles, etc.
However it is under powered and 9" is rather small for bowls. The
vari-grind is an accessory for the wolverine system, which does not
appear in the picture. Also the chisels if they are high speed steel are
ok, but not great.
sawdustmaker <sawdus...@ww.com> wrote:
> http://wichita.craigslist.org/tls/5105117643.html
This is a decent lathe for doing chair spindles, tool handles, etc.
However it is under powered and 9" is rather small for bowls. The
vari-grind is an accessory for the wolverine system, which does not
appear in the picture. Also the chisels if they are high speed steel are
ok, but not great.
Martin Eastburn
Jul 25, 2015, 10:48:51 PM7/25/15
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Try it to see if you like it. e.g. you are not dumping out 5K or so
and find it isn't what you want. I have a Pre/Post WW II model - not
tube. And that is what I use. The fact that the guy turned bowls on it
means the bearings are likely ok. Learn how to use it and learn
technique before you buy something else.
Martin
and find it isn't what you want. I have a Pre/Post WW II model - not
tube. And that is what I use. The fact that the guy turned bowls on it
means the bearings are likely ok. Learn how to use it and learn
technique before you buy something else.
Martin
graham
Jul 26, 2015, 1:01:43 PM7/26/15
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chairs, then go ahead.
If you want to turn a salad bowl then forget it!
I started on a Craftsman but soon sold it when I realised its
limitations. I then bought a General.
These days there are so many Taiwanese lathes that won't cost you much
more and will do a lot more. In addition, they are 1"x8, for which it is
much easier to find chucks and spare faceplates.
Just my 5c worth.
Graham
--
russell...@yahoo.com
Jul 26, 2015, 8:25:12 PM7/26/15
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Slightly undecided. 9 inch swing is less than the mini lathes. Mini lathes from Jet or Delta are 12 inch swing. 16 inch between center I think. Maybe 24 inches, not sure. This lathe is longer between center. But, almost no one turns more than about 12 inches between centers. People just do not turn spindles. The Steelex tools are maybe high speed steel. But Harbor Freight sells the same set in HSS for about $40. I bought the Harbor Freight set. The mini turning tools aren't really useful. As already mentioned, it includes the Wolverine vari grind jig, but not the Wolverine system that goes under the grinder. The jig is $50 or so, but the whole Wolverine system is $150 or so. It looks like you are just getting the cheap part. I don't think you would be harmed if you passed on this. Just look for some sales and buy a mini lathe and the extension bed. Get a set of HSS tools from Harbor Freight. Grinder and the Wolverine system too if you want a jig for sharpening the tools. More expensive, but I think higher quality when you are done.
Martin Eastburn
Jul 27, 2015, 11:38:49 PM7/27/15
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Look at the picture. The nine inches is from center to the way.
Many lathes are stating 2x and this isn't a 4.5" wood cutting lathe.
The Bowl blank on the lathe and on the floor are much larger.
If you make pens, one doesn't need 12".
If you make salt/pepper / cups / small 8" bowls you don't need a 16.
Only if you run large hundred pound logs do you need something like that.
Martin
Many lathes are stating 2x and this isn't a 4.5" wood cutting lathe.
The Bowl blank on the lathe and on the floor are much larger.
If you make pens, one doesn't need 12".
If you make salt/pepper / cups / small 8" bowls you don't need a 16.
Only if you run large hundred pound logs do you need something like that.
Martin
Nick
Jul 28, 2015, 11:50:55 AM7/28/15
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"sawdustmaker" <sawdus...@ww.com> wrote in message
news:XnsA4E28CF5F5...@69.16.179.22...
Looks decent and not expensive.
Definitely underpowered.
No provision for outboard turning
Good bed length and decent swing.
Exposed belting may have probs with flying shavings. Also the exposed
belting does pose a more than minor hazard.
Plain bearings (note oilers) are something of a downer. If not previously
used/abused too greatly, should be ok.
All in all I think it looks a fair purchase and you could probably consider
the included items a bonus.
As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase motor'.
What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly different but
I've never seen this before.
If I came across this in England, I would probably have a pop at it.
I use an ancient Union Jubilee with 2hp motor. Wiring modified to spin the
motor in reverse, invaluable for fine sanding/finishing.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrisonwood/page2.html
I think that if you are interest, you should have a go. You'll not be
wasting your money.
Just my 2P's worth.
Nick,
England (not old nick and not New England)
John McCoy
Jul 28, 2015, 4:25:36 PM7/28/15
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"Nick" <nick...@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk> wrote in
news:d1pmms...@mid.individual.net:
> As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase
> motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly
> different but I've never seen this before.
A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
and are usually called capacitor start motors.
There are split-phase motors without starting caps, but they
don't have very good starting torque, so you usually only
see them in low power applications.
John
news:d1pmms...@mid.individual.net:
> As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase
> motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is vastly
> different but I've never seen this before.
winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
and are usually called capacitor start motors.
There are split-phase motors without starting caps, but they
don't have very good starting torque, so you usually only
see them in low power applications.
John
Lew Hodgett
Jul 28, 2015, 8:09:16 PM7/28/15
to
"Nick" wrote:
>> As a matter of interest. The grinder nameplate says 'split phase
>> motor'. What does this mean? I know UK and US electrickery is
>> vastly
>> different but I've never seen this before.
"John McCoy" wrote:
> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
----------------------------------------------------
> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
They depend on the phase shift between rotor and stator to develop
a limited amout of starting torque when starting.
Typical split phase applications would be running cooling fans which
require only limited amounts of starting torque.
Single phase motors can be equipped with a starting capacitor which
switches out when the rotor reaches operating RPM. They are known
as cap start motors.
These motors are used for high starting torque applications and are
more expensive than split phase motors of the same size.
There are also motors known as cap start, cap run motors.
Cap start, cap run motors allow the motor designer to squeeze more
HP from a given frame size.
Typical applications would include a table saw where a 2 HP,
3450 RPM, 56 frame, 240 V will just fit into a 10" contractor's saw.
This shoe horning of a large frame in a small space uses cap start,
cap run technology.
Lew
John McCoy
Jul 29, 2015, 4:01:45 PM7/29/15
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"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in news:55b819a8$0$39457
$c3e8da3$f017...@news.astraweb.com:
> "John McCoy" wrote:
>
>> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
>> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
>> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
I suggest you get out your electrical engineering
textbook. What you posted is incorrect.
John
$c3e8da3$f017...@news.astraweb.com:
> "John McCoy" wrote:
>
>> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
>> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
>> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
textbook. What you posted is incorrect.
John
Lew Hodgett
Jul 29, 2015, 8:37:55 PM7/29/15
to
"John McCoy" wrote:
>> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
>> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
>> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
----------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
> Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
-----------------------------------------------------
> Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
"John McCoy" wrote:
> I suggest you get out your electrical engineering
> textbook. What you posted is incorrect.
-----------------------------------------------------
> I suggest you get out your electrical engineering
> textbook. What you posted is incorrect.
Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current
source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor
that is equipped with a capacitor.
Lew
John McCoy
Jul 30, 2015, 9:01:30 AM7/30/15
to
"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in news:55b971df$0$29522
$c3e8da3$e074...@news.astraweb.com:
All capactitor start motors are split-phase motors.
Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a
split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate:
A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor
with a starting winding.
It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series
with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase
motor.
By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor
start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor
start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same
thing to all intents and purposes).
The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole
motor, which does not have a starting winding.
John
$c3e8da3$e074...@news.astraweb.com:
Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a
split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate:
A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor
with a starting winding.
It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series
with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase
motor.
By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor
start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor
start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same
thing to all intents and purposes).
The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole
motor, which does not have a starting winding.
John
Lew Hodgett
Jul 30, 2015, 11:44:21 PM7/30/15
to
"John McCoy" wrote:
>>
>> A split-phase motor is a single phase motor with a starting
>> winding. Almost invariably they also have a starting capacitor,
>> and are usually called capacitor start motors.
----------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>> Sorry but split phase motors NEVER have capacitors.
-----------------------------------------------------
"John McCoy" wrote:
> I suggest you get out your electrical engineering
> textbook. What you posted is incorrect.
-----------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
>> Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current
>> source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor
>> that is equipped with a capacitor.
----------------------------------------------------
>> Perhaps you would care to share with the us your current
>> source, their price and availability of a split phrase motor
>> that is equipped with a capacitor.
"John McCoy" wrote:
> All capactitor start motors are split-phase motors.
>
> Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a
> split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate:
>
> A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor
> with a starting winding.
>
> It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series
> with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase
> motor.
>
> By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor
> start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor
> start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same
> thing to all intents and purposes).
>
> The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole
> motor, which does not have a starting winding.
---------------------------------------------------------------
> All capactitor start motors are split-phase motors.
>
> Since you didn't follow my suggestion to go look up what a
> split-phase motor is, allow me to elucidate:
>
> A split-phase motor is a single phase AC induction motor
> with a starting winding.
>
> It doesn't make a difference if you put a capacitor in series
> with the starting winding or not, it's still a split-phase
> motor.
>
> By convention we call the ones with a capacitor "capacitor
> start", and by implication if we don't call it capacitor
> start then it's resistance-start (or reactance-start, same
> thing to all intents and purposes).
>
> The alternative to a split-phase motor is a shaded-pole
> motor, which does not have a starting winding.
So the question still stands.
Where do you buy a split phase motor equipped with a capacitor?
Lew
J. Clarke
Jul 31, 2015, 6:49:10 AM7/31/15
to
In article <55baef12$0$29463$c3e8da3$e074...@news.astraweb.com>,
sails...@verizon.net says...
You mean besides Grainger, McMaster, Grizzly, and Harbor Freight?
>
> Lew
sails...@verizon.net says...
>
> Lew
Martin Eastburn
Jul 31, 2015, 10:57:30 PM7/31/15
to
Motor repair place!
Often they get the old ones... for the taking and fixing.
Martin
Often they get the old ones... for the taking and fixing.
Martin
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