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Re: how to:graflok conversion for Graflex SLR

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grcla...@gmail.com

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Apr 19, 2016, 1:18:12 AM4/19/16
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On Friday, October 27, 1995 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, N1DDZ RJC wrote:
> Subj: HOW TO: Graphic to Graflok conversion
> Date: 95-10-22 19:07:04 EDT
> From: N1DDZ RJC
> To: Exakta
>
> Steve,
>
> You asked how to replace the old Graphic back on a Series D 2X3 with a
> more
> modern Graflok back. Here's how.......
>
> well,
>
> I've never done a 2X3 before, but assuming the Graflok assembly is similar
> to
> the 4X5 I did just a coupel of weeks ago, the steps are as follows:
>
> 1. Cut the mounting ears off the back assembly (frame) with a bandsaw to
> the
> same dimension, minus the thickness of the brass frame material, as your
> Series B or D frame.
>
> In the 4X5, you cut off the top and bottom ears, and about 1/8" of the
> left
> part of the frame. The 2X3 could be similar.
>
> 2. Remove the old wood strips from the Series B or D frame after removing
> the
> frame from the camera. Save the screws for something else later.
>
> 3.. Remove all the felt and velvet from the filmholder side, but not from
> the
> side that bears against the revolving plate - leave that alone!
>
> 4. With a nibbler, cut off the right hand edge of the brass frame so that
> the right hand side of the Graflok frame will sit flat against the inner
> part
> of the brass frame. File down any you miss with the nibbler. The nibbler
> is
> a gadget sold by Radio Shack and is very handy for removing sheet metal -
> especially brass which it cuts easily.
>
> 5. With the Graflok frame in place in the brass frame, center the two by
> either filing the edges or removing one of the brass lips (better to file
> and
> neatly fit it into the frame than butcher the brass)
>
> 6. Make sure that the two pieces sit flat and centered with one another.
> Clean corresponding edges of any residual glue, gunk or felt material and
> then clean it again. Lightly sand both surfaces with sandpaper and clean.
>
> 7. To attach the two pieces - this is the best way and the easiest to
> accomplish correctly - please don't write me and say this is sacriledge -
> Apply GOOP Mfg. by Eclectic Products, Inc., Carson Ca very carefully to
> the
> back of the Graflok frame. Don't use so much that the GOOP slops over
> into
> the revolving part when you press the two together.
>
> 8. Put a weight on the two pieces and go away for two days. Don't touch
> it.
>
> 9. The GOOP is a super tacky adhesive (tack is a good quality for an
> adhesive) and when dried tends to pull the pieces together. You cannot
> remove the two units now unless you soak them in a bath of suitable
> solvent
> such as methylene chloride (dangerous, don't do it).
>
> 10. Now the new back is ready to take the ground glass insert. Don't
> forget
> to measure that small extra distance back that the new film plane is
> relative
> to the old, and shim up your reflex viewer ground glass accordingly.
> (this
> is a task that takes longer than the above instructions to mount the new
> back
> I have found, details at a later date)
>
> 11. Remount the back making sure that the flat herad screws go under the
> revolving part and the round ones at the side of the camera body.
>
> I'd look for light leaks after doing this, and fill in any voids around
> the
> cut Graflok back with putty or even epoxy, then paint the edges black.
> Let
> me know if you are going to do this and we can get some diminsions
> straight
> before you start. It's really easy to do and it turns an otherwise
> marginal
> artifact into a very handy camera.
>
> Please post this email to the newsgroup - I am having access troubles with
> AOL again today.
>
> Bob Crowley
> AMBIT Corp
> Wayland MA
>
> Bob Crowley, Staff Inventor
> AMBIT Corporation,
> Wayland MA

Do you know who is following WD Service since the gentleman died in 2012? I have a Super D that needs its shutter CLA'd
George Clarke 925-984-3785
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