When I project a negative, it is slightly out of focus from the rear of
the enlarger to the front of the baseboard. Side to side focus is fine.
I have tried aligning the head (tilting it back and forward), and even
when I dramatically over correct, the negative still appears out of
focus. This happens with every negative, and the negatives are not
buckled.
Also, when using the diffusion unit, light output is extremely low. Is
this normal?
One last problem is that the edges of the projected image are not sharp.
There seems to be considerable light falloff around all edges. It gets
better when I reposition the upper bellows, but it is not eliminated.
Please help! Thanks in advance.
slaX0r
--
Remove the NOSPAMPLEASE from my address to send me mail.
Do you have the condensers setup properly ?
Regards
John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster
Formulas, Facts and Info on the Photographic Process
http://www.darkroompro.com
As far as I know, I do. I'm have the conic light integrator installed
(instead of the honeycomb), and the single large condenser lens installed.
When I tested w/the diffuser, I used the honeycomb piece along with the
diffuser in place of the condenser lens.
It sounds like you may be short one condenser lens. The 23C should
have TWO condenser lenses in the condenser unit, mounted with the
convex surfaces facing each other. The Conic Light Integrator does not
take the place of the condenser. It merely emulates an incandescent
bulb wrt bulb shape and and light output pattern. Try it with both
lenses in place and the condensers set in the proper postion for the
film size being printed.
Mike Sullivan
You seem to have the correct hardware configuration. Just make sure in the
condenser mode you adjust the condensers to the format you're using.
Diffusion mode the head goes all the way down until it touched the top of
the negative stage when open. This will affect the evenness of the light
and not the focus.
You may have a problem where the lens stage is out of alignment with the
negative stage. Not left to right, but front to back. Try this:
Place a piece of plate glass (I use an old window pane) in the negative
stage and close the negative stage to hold the glass. Place a level on the
side and note where the bubble is.
Next move the level down to the lens. Not the lens stage, but the front of
the lens itself (not the glass, but the front of the barrel).
Again, note where the bubble is. Make sure on both of these you have the
level placed to measure front to back, not side to side.
If the bubble is way out of wack with one another, you have found the
problem. You may need to shim the screw that controls the side to side
movement of the lens stage. Align the negative stage parallel to the
baseboard first with the silly screw thing (replace this with a real bolt
and jam nut instead of the nylon one that came with the enlarger if it
hasn't yet). Then shim the screw that acts as the pivot for the lens stage.
Use metal, not paper or plastic for this shim. I found I had to increase
the thickness of the washer under this screw to make it align.
These steps will help you get the enlarger aligned, but are course
procedures at best. The procedures are not the fault, but the level is not
the most accurate measuring device in the world. To really align the
enlarger you need a ZigAlign or the laser thing. This will get you in the
ball park.
Jim
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Even assuming that the condensers are whacked, this doesn't explain the same
problem with the diffuser.
Mike Sullivan wrote:
--
However, he said he was getting side to side sharpness but not front to
back. Missing one of the two condenser lenses will not cause this, but
light that's uneven as hell... surely. The condenser is not in the image
forming portion of the enlarger and would have nothing to do with image
sharpness.
I guess it's back to the original poster.
That is a correct description of the condenser assembly. One other thing to
try, seeing as you -may- still have a problem with light evenness after you
get everything else figured out. In the condenser mode you have a problem
within say 1/4 inch of the format setting on the side of the head, the
lenses in the condenser assembly may be reversed. If you take the 4 screws
out the top lens will drop out quite easily. There's a metal spacer-collar
thing that should come out next, and finally the bottom lens. Give them a
good cleaning with Windex or soap and water. No major worries other than
dropping and breakage. Any large particles can show up on your final prints
(as uneven illumination), so a portion of care to get them clean is in
order.
Reassemble in the same way. One of the lenses is a tad bit thicker that the
other. About 1/4 inch. The thicker one goes on the bottom. Dust out the
inside before you put the top lens in.
I've had a 23C-II for over 25 years. Good enlarger. Sometimes finicky to
align, but holds that alignment fairly well. The only problem I've had is
the Dual Dichro color head (not the 'S' version) blew three bulbs in about
20 minutes one day. All three bulbs were about the same age (9 or 10 years
old), so I guessed the problem may have been the bulbs leaked and not enough
pressure in there cause the filament to go (Quartz Halogen bulbs do not have
a vacuum in them). New bulbs did not have the same problem. My advise,
don't stock up on bulbs. One spare is OK. Four or five hanging around is a
waste.
Let us know if this info helps. If you want more info, get me your E-Mail
address and we'll trade tips off the news group.
Jim
Just out of curiousity does the Beseler have many more parts that require
adjustment than most other enlargers? I have had a Saunders LPL D6700 for a few
years and the only part I have to worry about is the film carrier as it is
supposed to be permanently aligned. Whether the Saunders claim is reliable, I
don't know, but mine is aligned just fine when using a glass carrier. Just
curious.
E.T.
fo...@aol.com
E.T. :~)
I can't fully answer your question, as I've never used the enlarger you
mentioned. But I can tell you the Beseler 23C series and I believe the 45
MX (used one a couple of times MANY years ago) has 1 format selection
adjustment in condenser mode and only two alignment adjustments. There are
a few more things that may need 'modification' to achieve perfect alignment.
Those modifications are necessary for the anal-retentive (like me) who want
to see grain in a corner as sharp as the grain in the other three and as
close to that of the middle as possible. I'm also the type to spend the
$300 & $650 for APO-Rodagons.