rec.pets.dogs: Introduction FAQ

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/introduction
Version: 3.1

Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993

This is one of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists for
rec.pets.dogs. It is posted on a monthly basis: updates, additions,
and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send
email to one of the addresses at the end of this article.

The multiple parts are all archived at rtfm.mit.edu (18.70.0.224) in
the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq. The files are:
introduction, getting-a-dog, new-puppy, new-dog, health-care,
breeding, medical-info, training, behavior, working, service,
AKC-titles, misc/part1, misc/part2, rescue/part1, rescue/part2,
publications and resources.

To obtain the files, first try ftp to rtfm.edu and look under
that directory. If ftp does not work from your site, then try
the mail server: send email to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-puppy
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new-dog
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeding
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/behavior
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/service
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/publications
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/resources

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty). If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.



INTRODUCTION

A. Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.
B. FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.
C. Acronyms.
D. Abbreviations.
E. Glossary.
F. Kennel Clubs.
G. Mailing Lists.
H. Acknowledgements.

A. Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.

Rec.pets.dogs is a newsgroup devoted to domestic canine issues. This
group can be friendly and helpful. Flamewars are generally limited to
several topics: crating dogs, training by the Koheler method, docking
and cropping, animal rights activism, wolf hybrids and pit-bull (or
other breed) dog bans. New readers are advised against starting these
topics up on the newsgroup as long, protracted, and inflammatory
discussions often ensue. The facts pertaining to these controversial
topics are covered in the FAQ's. This is not to say that these topics
are forbidden from discussion on rec.pets.dogs, but that regular
readers would greatly appreciate it if you checked out what the FAQ
had to say on them to make sure you have something new to contribute.

This newsgroup was formed in the summer of 1991. It is a splinter
group from rec.pets, which originally carried the canine as well as
other topics. Joe DiBenedetto proposed the split and collected the
votes, which proved more than enough for its official creation.

Michael Mahler attempted a FAQ in 1991 that consisted of compiled but
unedited articles saved from the net. Due to time constraints, he
gave up the project, and I received copies of the articles that he had
saved and incorporated much of them in here from other readers. I
have heard of other attempts at FAQ's well, but no real details.

1. Charter

There exists no official charter for this group. However,
unofficially, this group exists to discuss anything related to
canines.

2. Asking questions

By all means, ask questions on this newsgroup, that's what this is
for. Most of us are more than happy to help you out. There are some
things you might want to keep in mind, though:

Is it a frequently asked question? If you have a question about
housetraining, for example, you might find the answer in one of the
group's FAQ. It's entirely possible you have a question not covered
in the FAQ, but it helps to check first.

Are you giving us enough information? Sometimes people ask brief
questions that don't get the responses they wanted. This is often
because the brevity of the question leads many readers to infer other
possibilities. In particular, questions like "I want a dog that stays
outside," "I want a dog for the kids, what's a good one," "I want a
dog for protection" will generate many followups that are concerned
with whether or not you really should get a dog, along with
recommendations of books that you should read first. If you've
already done your homework, by all means, take the extra time to
describe that in your request so that you can get more useful
responses.

B. FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.

1. Multiple monthly posted FAQ's

There are multiple FAQ's, split up by topic rather than by length. All
are posted regularly, about once a month. Each FAQ is intended to be
a self-contained article on its topic and can be read separately from
the others.

* INTRODUCTION
This file, which gives a brief description of this group, details
common acronyms, includes a glossary, describes several national
kennel clubs, and thanks the people who made this all possible.
* GETTING A DOG
Details how to go about getting a dog and lists the things you
will need to get started.
* YOUR NEW PUPPY
Aimed at new dog owners and puppies. Thus it contains information
on the needs of puppies and helps the new or inexperienced owner
get started.
* YOUR NEW DOG
Helps the new owner who has just gotten an adult dog. It
discusses issues pertinent to this situation, such as
readjustment, bonding, etc.
* HEALTH CARE ISSUES
An overview of the sort of health issues every dog owner should
know about: basic information on vaccinations, how to tell when
something is wrong, etc.
* CANINE MEDICAL INFORMATION
Gives detailed information on a number of diseases and other
problems that dogs can have.
* TRAINING YOUR DOG
Supplies tips, hints, and references to training your dog.
Discusses the variety of methods used to train dogs.
* Behavior: Understanding and Modifying
Outlines the way dogs think and presents common behavioral
problems along with suggested constructive solutions.
* WORKING DOGS
Covers the amazing variety of ways dogs can be put to work.
* SERVICE DOGS
Describes the ways dogs assist handicapped people directly.
Covers guide dogs for the blind, signal dogs for the deaf,
companion dogs for the disabled, and therapy dogs.
* AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB
Covers AKC test requirements and discusses showing. It also
briefly discusses breed clubs associated with the AKC and titles
obtainable through those clubs.
* ASSORTED TOPICS, I and II
Contains a variety of topics in two parts that did not fit any
particular theme, such as wolf-hybrids and allergies.
* PUBLICATIONS
Contains all the book and article references in the other faqs
(breed specific ones excepted) plus other publications.
* RESOURCES
A compilation of canine related magazines, catalogues,
organizations and kennel club addresses.

There is certainly room for more FAQ's -- the world of dog fanciers is
a wide one indeed! In general, I welcome suggestions on ways to
improve FAQ's or construct new ones. I am particularly appreciative
of written-up contributions. The format of the FAQ's has been chosen
to provide individually useful files. Each of the files is also less
than 65K and under 1500 in order to accomodate common restrictions on
mailers and news-reading software.

2. FAQ's for particular breeds

In addition to these monthly posted FAQ's, there are available FAQ's
for specific breeds. These are posted rarely, perhaps once or twice a
year. They are available via anonymous ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu
(18.172.1.27) under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds/<breed>.
For the exact file name, check the name in parentheses after the breed.
If you do not have ftp, send email to mail-...@pit-manager.mit.edu
with "send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds/<breed>" in the subject line,
leaving the message body empty. For example, to reference Bloodhounds,
you would use usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds/bloodhounds.

If you do not see your favorite breed below, send me email if you want
to put one together yourself! All you have to do is write them up, I
will take care of archival and periodic posting. (Addresses are at
the end of this post.) I only wrote one of these, as a guide for the
rest of them. The rest have been written by fellow rec.pets.dogs
readers.

Currently, FAQ's are available for:

Alaskan Malamutes (malamutes)
Bloodhounds (bloodhounds)
Cavalier King Charles Spaniels (cavaliers)
Chesapeake Bay Retrievers (chessies)
Chow Chows (chows)
Collies (collies)
Greyhounds (greyhounds)
Havanese (havanese)
Labrador Retriever (labradors)
Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers (tollers)
Rhodesian Ridgebacks (ridgebacks)
Siberian Huskies (huskies)

3. And yet others

People are more than welcome to start up their own FAQ's -- I am
certainly not running a monopoly. Some good subjects might be recipes
for dog food, protection, specific kennel clubs other than the AKC,
etc. I am more than happy to help you out with making such articles
into periodically posted articles and will show you how to get them
archived along with all the other FAQ's listed above. I will list
them here as well once they are installed. The two rescue faqs, by
Michael Buening are two such additional faqs.

C. Acronyms.

New readers frequently have trouble understanding the acronyms that
have developed in this group. Other acronyms are widely used among
dog fanciers.

A partial listing (feel free to send in contributions):

1. General acronyms

AHBA American Herding Breeds Association.
AKC: American Kennel Club.
AWTA: American Working Terrier Association.
ALF: Animal Liberation Front (USA animal rights activist group).
ASCA: Australian Shepherd Club of America
BIS: Best in Show.
BOB: Best of Breed (male or female).
BOS: Best Opposite Sex (to BOB).
BW: Best of Winners.
CEA: Collie Eye Anomaly.
CERF: Canine Eye Registration Foundation: registers "normal eyed dogs".
CHD/HD: Hip Dysplasia.
CKC: Canadian Kennel Club.
CPI: Canine Parainfluenza.
CPV: Canine Parvovirus.
DHLPP: Distempter, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus shot
FDSB: Field Dog Stud Book; a registry of pointing dogs published by the
American Field Publishing Company. Many pointing dogs are dual
registered AKC/FDSB.
GSD: German Shepherd Dog.
GSP: German Shorthair Pointer.
IM(H)O: In My (Honest/Humble) Opinion.
KC: Kennel Club (of Great Britain).
KPC/T: Kindergarten Puppy Class/Training.
NQ'd: Not Qualified -- disqualified from the ring
OES: Old English Sheepdog.
OCD: Osteochondrosis Dissecans (separation of joint cartilage)
OFA: Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (hip certification).
PETA: People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (USA animal rights
activist group).
PRA: Progressive Retinal Atrophy.
RBKC: Rare Breed Kennel Club.
ROM: Register of Merit, awarded by parent clubs of specific breeds.
RWB: Reserve Winner's Bitch.
RWD: Reserve Winner's Dog.
SKC: States Kennel Club (mainly active in the South and New England)
TDI: Therapy Dogs International.
UKC: United Kennel Club.
WB: Winner's Bitch.
WD: Winner's Dog.
WH: Wolf Hybrids.

2. Titles

CD: (AKC) Companion Dog.
CDX: (AKC) Companion Dog Excellent.
UD: (AKC) Utility Dog.
OTCH: (AKC) Obedience Trial Champion.

JH: (AKC) Junior Hunter.
SH: (AKC) Senior Hunter.
MH: (AKC) Master Hunter.

TD: (AKC) Tracking Dog.
TDX: (AKC) Tracking Dog Excellent.

UDT: (AKC) Utility Dog Tracking.

HT: (AKC) Herding Tested.
PT: (AKC) Pre-Trial Tested.
HS: (AKC) Herding Started.
HI: (AKC) Herding Intermediate.
HX: (AKC) Herding Excellent.
HCH: (AKC) Herding Champion.

FTC: (AKC) Field Trial Champion.
AFC: (AKC) Amateur Field Champion.
NFC: (AKC) National Field Champion.
NAFC: (AKC) National Amateur Field Champion.

CGC: (AKC) Canine Good Citizen.

CD: (CKC) Companion Dog.
CDX: (CKC) Companion Dog Excellent.
UD: (CKC) Utility Dog.
OTCH: (CKC) Obedience Trial Champion.
UDT: (CKC) Utility Dog Tracker (abbrev. for UD TD)
UDTX: (CKC) Utility Dog Tracker Excellent (UD TDX)

HIC, HC (AHBA) Herding [Instinct] Certified.

CG: (AWTA) Certificate of Gameness, soon to be an AKC title
WC: (AWTA) Working Certificate (only dogs who go to ground)
AGHC: (AWTA) Above Ground Hunting Certificate

CH: Champion, usually with country in front of it, e.g., Br. CH, Am.
CH, Can. CH. A number of different kennel clubs offer CH.
titles. AKC: Champion of Record, KC: Show Champion (often Sh.
Ch.).

Sch I,
II, III (Schutzhund) consecutive working titles
FH: (Schutzhund) Fahrtenhund (advanced tracking title, comparable to TDX)
AD: (Schutzhund) Ausdauer (endurance test)
VB: (Schutzhund) Traffic Secure.

TT: (American Temperament Test Society) Temperament test.

STD: (ASCA) Started Trial Dog (s/d/c suffix: sheep, ducks, cattle).
OTD: (ASCA) Open Trial Dog (same suffixes).
ATD: (ASCA) Advanced Trial Dog (same suffixes).

HR: (UKC) Hunter Retriever
HRCH: (UKC) Hunter Retriever Champion
GR HRCH:(UKC) Grand Hunter Retriever Champion

D. Abbreviations

Chessie: Chesaspeake Bay Retriever.
Dobie: Doberman Pinscher.
Golden: Golden Retriever.
Lab, esp. Yellow/Black Lab: Labrador Retriever.
Mal: Alaskan Malamute.
Newfie: Newfoundland.
Parvo: Canine Parvovirus.
Rott, Rottie: Rottweiler.
Sheltie: Shetland Sheepdog.
Sib: Siberian Husky.
Weim: Weimaraner.

E. Glossary

alpha: Dogs recognize intricate social hierarchies. The one "on top"
is "alpha." Alpha can also be relative, denoting which of a pair of
dogs dominates the other. Packs include humans where applicable, and
owners should always be alpha to their dogs.

bitch: A female dog. Not used in a derogatory sense.

bitchy: A male dog showing female characteristics (e.g., in size
and weight).

bloom: Glossiness of coat.

brace: A pair of dogs.

brisket: Front of chest between forelegs.

brood bitch: Female used for breeding.

chest: directly under the dog, right behind the front legs. What you
might think of as the "chest" is really the point of the shoulder or
sometimes the forechest.

coupling: That part of the body between the shoulders and hips; some
dogs are short coupled and others are longer coupled (aka "standing
over more ground").

crabbing: A dog that moves toward you with its body at an angle
rather than straight on. Also called side-wheeling or side-winding.

croup: The portion of the back directly above the hind legs, before
the tail.

dam: The female parent.

dewclaws: Rudimentary toes often removed shortly after birth.

dewlap: The skin on the throat.

dish faced: Where the tip of the nose is higher than the stop.

dog: 1. Any dog, male or female. 2. A male dog, especially when used
in conjunction with bitch.

doggy: A female dog showing male characteristics, especially in weight
and size.

eyeteeth: The upper canines.

flews: Pendulous upper lips.

heat: The mating period for bitches.

hocks: The joints above the pasterns of the legs.

pad: The cushioned part of the foot.

pastern: The part of the leg below the knee in rear legs.

Schutzhund: A German-developed training regimen for protective work
used world-wide. Only strong, determined, and aggressive dogs do well
with Schutzhund. Both dogs and bitches have been trained in
Schutzhund. German Shepherd Dogs are traditionally associated with
Schutzhund, but medium to large dogs of any breed may be so trained.

second thigh: The area of the hindquarters between the hock and the
stifle.

septum: The vertical line between the nostrils.

show dog: A dog bred for conformation to its breed standard and shown
in competition on that basis.

sire: The male parent.

stifle: The upper joint of the rear legs, corresponding to humans' knees.

stop: The point between a dog's eyes.

stud: Male dog used for breeding.

withers: The highest point of the shoulders, right behind the neck.

F. Kennel Clubs.

(Largely condensed from _Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.,
pgs 368-377)

There are organizations set up around the world for animals. Although
the character of each differs, the basic responsiblities of a kennel
club include:

* Recognizing breeds. The criteria for being recognized varies a
great deal from country to country.

* Maintaining breed registries. Issues certificates of registration
to owners of dogs that qualify.

* Compiling stud books. Traces ancestries of registered dogs as far
back as records have been kept for that breed.

* Establishing breed standards. Publishes descriptions of the ideal
dog for each breed, to help with judging breeds in show.

* Sponsoring dog shows and trials. Enforces procedures to be
followed to insure merited reception of awards.

* Approval of judges, and judging procedures. Sets standards of
knowledge for a judge.

Often, national kennel clubs accept as members or affiliates canine
clubs devoted to particular breeds that sponsor their own
competitions. Other independent clubs set their own breed standards.

Although show trials are the most common, where a dog's appearance is
the sole criterion for awards, outdoor competition is also popular:
hunting, tracking, obedience, herding, and lure-coursing are some of
the alternatives. In these only performance counts.

1. American Kennel Club

AKC
51 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10010

Telephone Numbers:
AKC registration (NC) - 1-919-493-7396
AKC customer relations - 1-212-696-8200
AKC Performance Events (Obedience & Herding) - 1-212-696-8276

See American Kennel Club Titles FAQ for more information.

2. Australian National Kennel Council

ANKC
Administrative Buildings
Royal Showgrounds, Ascot Vale
3032, Victoria

Each of the eight Australian states/territories has its own canine
club, but the controlling body is ANKC. Established in 1958, its
objective is to propose uniform policies and procedures for all of
Australia, although member clubs are not compelled to adopt any of the
procedures. There are only minor administrative differences, however,
and champions in one state are recognized as such in others.

Major Australian show classes are
Baby puppies (4-6 mos)
Minor puppies (6-9 mos)
Puppy class (6-12 mos)
Junior class (6-18 mos)
Intermediate class (18mos to 3yrs)
Australian-bred class (6mos and over, born in Australia)
Open class (any dog, generally 1yr and over)

Ear cropping is illegal in Australia, and ANKC considers dogs with
cropped ears ineligible for registration.

The judging system is based on points, accumulated from being judged
Best of Sex; the number of points reflects the number of competitors
over which the dog won (with minimum and maximum limits). Dogs are
judged by breed standards established by the Kennel Club (Britain),
except for breeds of Australian origin. Highest title: Breed Champion.

ANKC groups:
Toy
Sporting terrier
Gun dog
Hound
Working
Utility
Non-sporting

3. Canadian Kennel Club

CKC
100 - 89 Skyway Avenue
Etobicoke, Ontario M9W 6R4
1-416-675-5511 (tel)
1-416-675-6506 (fax)

The club was formed in 1888 when Canadians became determined to have
their own club after AKC's four year inclusion of Canada in its
beginning. The two clubs have worked closely together since then, e.g.,
reciprocal recognition of each other's stud books and judges. There
are similar judging systems, many common regulations, and most of the
same breed standards.

The judging system is based on points. A dog must accumulate 10
points under at least three different judges at shows held under CKC
regulations. Points are awarded based on the number of dogs in
competition and handed to each Best of Sex winner. Up to five
additional points may be awarded should the dog then place in its
group or win Best in Show.

They also sponsor obedience trials and tracking tests. They offer CD,
CDX, UD, OTCH (equivalent to UD [?]), TD, and TDX. The CKC offered
TDX before the AKC did -- American tracking enthusiasts used to go to
Canada for TDX because nothing past TD was offered in the US.

Unusually among kennel clubs, the CKC is responsible to the federal
government in registering its dogs. Selling a pure-bred puppy without
first registering it carries penalties. Pedigreed dogs must be
identified on registration forms by either tattoo or noseprint.

CKC groups
Sporting
Hound
Working
Terrier
Toy
Non-sporting
Herding
Miscellaneous

4. Fe'de'ration Cynologique Internationale

FCI
Rue Le'opold-II
14B-6530 Thuin
Belgium

The FCI is a world-wide federation of national dog clubs. Its
objective is to bring about international standards in the breeding,
exhibiting, and judging of purebreds.

Founded in 1911, it was originally European -- claiming membership
from France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, and Holland. Today,
membership includes representatives from 19 European countries as well
as several from Latin America, Asia, and Africa. Another 11 countries
are affiliated (including Britain and South Africa).

FCI automatically recognizes the breeds of member countries -- hence
it recognizes over 300 breeds. Breed standards approved by FCI are
drawn up from the country of origin, helping to keep those standards
uniform. Member countries may refuse to register dogs showing genetic
flaws or non-conformation to standards; this helps eliminate
hereditary defects.

FCI hosts two types of shows: national and international. The country
in which the show is held determines the judging system.
International titles: International Working Trial Champion, and
International Beauty Champion, both based on accumulating aptitude
certificates and prizes in several countries under several judges.
Difficulties are encountered by various quarantines of some of the
countries.

FCI groups:
Shepherd Dogs
Watch Dogs and Working Dogs
Terriers
Dachshunds
Hounds for Big Game
Hounds for Small Game
Pointers (except British breeds)
British Gun Dogs
Fancy Dogs
Greyhounds

5. Federation of International Canines (FIC)

FIC
PO Box 250307
Montgomery, AL 36125
tel: 205-284-4401
fax: 205-284-4838

6. Kennel Club (Britain)

The Kennel Club
1-5 Clarges Street
London W1Y 8AB

The Kennel Club was formed in 1873. Its objective is to bring under
central authority various canine clubs to ensure uniform standards,
rules, and procedures, as well as a comprehensive registry for all
breeds. There are more than 1,700 member clubs in The Kennel Club
today. The Kennel Club has reciprocal arrangements with more than 40
national clubs and is an associate member of FCI.

The KC does not recognise Schutzhund. To gain a KC studbook number a
dog must get a first, second or third prize in the Limit or Open Class
at a Championship show or a CC or RCC.

The British title Champion (bench) is generally considered the most
difficult to obtain. The dog must earn three Challenge Certificates
from three different judges (one out of puppy class). Some breeds,
those on the import register do not have CC's. -- but CC's are
sharply limited, and even if Best of Sex is won, the judge may
withhold a CC. It may take years to obtain the title.

Kennel Club groups
Hound
Gun dog
Terrier
Utility
Working
Toy

7. Kennel Union of Southern Africa

KUSA
Box 2659
Cape Town 8000
South Africa

Organized in 1895 to unite all the kennel clubs in South Africa, KUSA
is composed of some 150 affiliated clubs. Most of KUSA's approved
standards are from Britain's Kennel Club. Deviations or omissions
from the KC generally follow FCI standards instead. Of FCI members,
KUSA is the most closely associated club. A total of 181 dogs are
recognized by KUSA.

KUSA groups
Hound
Gun dog
Terrier
Utility
Working
Toy

8. New Zealand Kennel Club

NZKC
Private Bag
Porirua

Operates virtually identically to ANKC; breed standards and rules are
the same. There is no quarantine between Australia and New Zealand
(unless recently imported from elsewhere).

9. Rare Breed Kennel Club (RBKC) [USA]

PO Box 727
Tujunga, CA 91042
tel: 818-951-2083

10. States Kennel Club [USA]

SKC
P.O. Box 389
Hattiesburg, Mississippi 39403-0389
601-583-8345

The States Kennel Club began in 1987. It was formed to promote the
interest of all purebred dogs on a nationwide basis. Its membership
is open to all who wish to participate and to any club. All Breed
Clubs, Group Clubs, Specialty Clubs and Obedience Clubs are allowed;
the Obedience clubs may only do obedience while the other clubs may
have obedience trials in conjunction with their conformation trials.

The SKC registers all purebred dogs recognized by AKC, CKC, and FCI.
Additional breeds may be recognized at SKC's discretion.

SKC accepts all dogs registered by the AKC, CKC, or any club
asssociated with the FCI, or governed by THe Kennel Club (Britain) or
other recognized kennel registries around the world. You need only
submit a photocopy of the dog's current registration papers along with
the appropriate fee.

9. United Kennel Club [USA]

UKC
100 East Kilgore Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49001
616-343-9020

A smaller kennel club in the US, with an emphasis on working
competitions. A breed standard book, about $18 is available upon
request.

UKC Groups:
Guardian Dogs
Scenthounds
Sighthounds
Gun Dogs
Northern Breeds
Herding Dogs
Terriers
Companion Dogs (eg, toy breeds)

G. Mailing Lists.

There are several email lists on canines and related topics.

A general canine list is: CANINE-L. To subscribe, send email to
list...@psuvm.bitnet or list...@psuvm.psu.edu with "subscribe
canine-l <your name>" in the body of the message (omit the quotes),
where <your name> is your actual name, not your login name or email
address or anything else. This is a high volume list and and
addresses much the same issues as rec.pets.dogs.

GOLDEN-L is a list about Golden Retriever. To subscribe, send a
message to list...@hobbes.ucsd.edu with the phrase "subscribe golden
firstname lastname" in the message body where <firstname lastname> is
your own name. The list server will deduce your email address.

Jeff Parke is a contact point for a veterinary mailing list that is
restricted to veterinarians or vet students. He can be reached at
je...@vcs10.vetmed.wsu.edu.

Another list is for owners of Shetland Sheepdogs. Contact Ken
Gravenstede at k...@pt.com for information on joining the list.

Mike Richman maintains a mailing list for people seriously interested
in obedience, primarily AKC's flavor, but CKC and KC of Britain flavors
are also represented on the list. Send your request for subscription
to obe...@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu.

Terri Hardwick maintains a mailling list for people interested in
herding issues. Contact her at herders...@mcnc.org to join the
list.

H. Acknowledgements.

I would like to thank the following people who took the time to send
me their comments. Many of them contributed substantial material for
this FAQ. Some contributed unknowingly, as I lifted their posts
directly from the newsgroup, obtained them from summaries kept by
other people, or lifted them out of mailing lists.

Thanks to: Ed Anderson, David F. Austin, Chris Barnes, Diane Bassett,
Anne Beck, Loralie Bellows, Marla Belzowski, Rachel Bereson, Mike
Berger, Heike Berlind, Shari Bernhard, Matthew W. Blake, Amy
Blankenship, Wade Blomgren, Mary Blumenstock, Helen J. Borek, Trenton
Boyd, Kathleen Brewer, Gail E. Brookhart, Dag Bruck, Kathy Buetow,
Nancy Bulinski, Robin Bush, Susan Byars, Alex Campbell, Jose' J.
Capo', John Chandler, Sandra L. Chang, Bill Chapp, Jason Chen, Joseph
T. Chew, Bill Chiachiaro, Mike Clark, James R. Coggins, Dale Cook,
Kathryn L. Cook, Deborah J. Cooper, Steve Crumley, Jamie L. Curtis,
Schalene Dagutis, Brad Davidson, Cindy Davies, Barbara Davis, Jack
Dean, Len DePalma, Len DeRoeck, Dennis Doubleday, Kim Dyer, Bonni
Ensminger, Damon Feldman, Lindy A. Fleck, Debbie Forest, Dan Fowler,
Del Fredricks, Carole Susan Fungaroli, Neal Gaborno, Michael Garzione,
Patricia Geschwent, Bill Glazier, Rob G. Glenn, Joy A. Gochman, Robin
Goldstone, Jim Graham, Andreas J. Guelzow, Dennis Gulden, Tom
Haapanen, Susan R. Hagan, Michael Hagerty, Patricia Halloran, Marsha
Jo Hannah, R. Hardin, Terri W. Hardwick, Nancy Hartman, Sharon
Hasting, John Heim, Julie Hill, Evelyn S. Hlabse, R. G. Hoff, Duke P.
Hong, Sue Utter Honig, Gerald Hough, Terry Hull, Sally A. Hundley,
Shirley Hunsaker, Deborah Hunt, Larry Hunter, John Interrante, Jane
Jackson, Linda Jacobson, Victoria Janicki, Tor Erik Jeremiassen,
Marget Johnson, Debbie Keyes, Joyce Andrews King, Erich Klinghammer,
Friedrich Knauss, Holly C. Krus, Rich Kulawiec, Virginia P. Kunch,
Kimberly Laird, Karina Laramie, Stephen N. Larson, Stephen R. Lee,
William LeFebvre, David E. Levy, Ann Lindstrom, Pamela M., Bill
McCormick, Russell McFadden, Allen McIntosh, Marian McKenzie, Meg
McRoberts, Ellen M. McSorley, Michael Mahler, Dana Massey, Douglas
Merrill, Steve Michelson, Liza Miller, Carol Miller-Tutzauer, William
L. Mpillios, Wendy Milner, David Minturn, Maralee Morado, Gary Morris,
Kathy Moser, S. Mudgett, Lily Mummert, Anne Myers, Mark Myers,
Victoria Neff, Barbara A. Neves, Devon Nichols, Cynthia C. Nordberg,
David Northrop, Eugina M. Novak, Elizabeth S. Odekirk, Maureen
O'Halloran, Jeff Parke, Brian Pawlowski, Jill N. Pappenhagen, Jon
Pastor, Stacy Pobar, David Prager, Laura Pylypow, April Quist, Nancy
Rabel, Mike Richman, Margaret F. Riley, Nancy Roberts, Garth Robinson,
Kevin Rodgers, Kenneth D. Rolt, David Ross, Sue Sanvido, Carlin
Sappenfield, Debra R. Schneider, Clare Sebok, Michael Sierchio, Brian
Wesley Simmons, David G. Simmons, Susan B. Sinnott, Michele Smith,
Charlie Sorsby, Thomas A. Spraggins, Orca Starbuck, Stormwind, Renee
Strong, Alison Suggs, Karl Swartz, Susan Todhunter, Laura Toms,
Beverly Trimpe, Deborah Trytten, David C. Tuttle, Bill Underwood,
Judith Van Noate, Esa Viitala, Kathy Vineyard, Valaria Vorlop, Michael
Wagppner, Sky Warrior, Betsy Weatherhead, Joseph Weinstein, Sara
Weinstein, John Wells, Mary Ann Wells, Kathryn Whitworth, Kathy Wilk,
Kim Williams, Stewart Winter, Rusty Wright, and Jeff Young.

Extra thanks to Marla Belzowski, Stephen R. Lee, Liza Miller, Lily
Mummert, Michael Sierchio, Charlie Sorsby, and Rusty Wright for
extensive editorial comments and a wealth of contributions.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992, 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission. This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: tit...@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/health-care
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



HEALTH CARE ISSUES

Prologue
A. In General.
B. Allergies.
C. Aging.
D. Bathing.
E. Dental Care.
F. Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).
G. Food.
H. Incontinence.
I. Neutering.
J. Overheating.
K. Administering Medicine: Pills, Liquids, Eyedrops, Injections.
L. Puberty.
M. Skin Problems.
N. Temperature.
O. Trimming Nails.
P. Vaccinations.
Q. Vomiting.
R. Worms.

Prologue.

Considerable information herein is summarized from Carlson & Giffin.
I would like to thank them for their informative and accessible
information. Any mistakes made in the summaries are my responsibility
and not Carlson & Giffin's. I believe that I am within copyright laws
by using summarizations (no direct quoting, except for the toxic
plants section), my own organization of the material, and precise
acknowledgement where relevant.

This article is presented for informative purposes only, and should
NOT be used to "replace" normal veterinary care. Rather, the
information included is intended to allow you
* to be aware of potential problems,
* to be able to prevent some of these problems, and
* to know when to take your dog in and what to tell your vet.

Cindy Tittle Moore

A. In General.

Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick. You need to be familiar
with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
something is wrong. Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
changes in either can signal trouble.

If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
toward keeping your dog healthy. Never attempt to replace vet care
with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
information about your dog's condition.

You should know some emergency care for your dog. This is beyond the
scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations.
Check a home-vet book and ask your vet about them. Some of these include:
* mouth-to-mouth resuscitation
* CPR
* temporary bandages and splints
* inducing vomiting
* a good antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes, etc
povidone iodine (brand name Betadine) is recommended

There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs.
These include:

Miller, Harry. _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you can
determine a dog's overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases and
problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain symptoms.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
symptoms are serious or not. Not as comprehensive as other care
books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
when your dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures,
such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming. Informative discussion of
reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:

Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. _Dog Owners's
Home Veterinary Handbook_. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN:
0-87605-764-4 (hardcover).
This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

B. Allergies.

Dogs can get allergies just like people do. However, symptoms involve
skin problems rather than respiratory distress. Check the skin
problems section over for possible clues toward allergies. A common
culprit is fleas, but dogs can be allergic to many other things,
including some types of food commonly found in dog food.

A good way to have your dog's allergies tested is with a RAST test.
Your vet should know about it and either be able to perform it, or
recommend you to someone who does.

C. Aging.

Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
preventable. It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
examined thoroughly every six months.

In particular, you want regular blood work done on your dog. For
example if kidney function declines, you want to know so that you can
switch to kidney-sensitive diets.

A recently published book is

Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. _Senior Years:
Understanding your Dog's Aging Process_. Howell Book House. 1993.
ISBN: 0-87605-734-2.

1. Behavioral changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Older dogs are more complacent, less energetic and curious. They may
be forgetful, and sleep more. Crankiness and irritability are common.
They are less tolerant of changes in the environment; in particular
you may wish to have someone come by and check the dog at home rather
than kennel it when you leave on vacation. Older dogs in hospitals
and kennels go off their feed, become overanxious, and bark frequently.

2. Physical changes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin. Resistance to cold
is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
bed. Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.

Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so. Also, some
conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
exercise. Toe nails will require more frequent trimming. Stiffening
joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
anal areas clean. The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
it clean and less dry.

Loss of hearing and sight may occur. Tooth and gum disease is fairly
common. Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure). Incontinence (mostly in
older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.

An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.

3. Geriatric Vestibular Disorder

Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
infection, sometimes inflammation). Very little is actually known
about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
completely disoriented.

Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.

D. Bathing.

You may need to bathe your dog on occasion. The main thing to
remember is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans. It is much
more prone to drying out when you wash it. Human based shampoos are
formulated to remove all the oils. You need to get one formulated for
dogs that will remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat.
Dogs that are frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as
Linatone or vegetable oil) to keep their skin and coat healthy.

A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
out. Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out
skin, may occur.

1. Procedure

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots. Bathing
will not remove these and in fact will worsen them. Plug its ears
with cotton to prevent water in the ears. To prevent soap-burn in the
eye, smear the eye area with a little vaseline, or administer a drop
of mineral oil in each eye.

Wet your dog thoroughly. Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
Using a shampoo formulated for dogs (the pH balance of human shampoos
is wrong), lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water
out of its eyes and ears. Lather and rinse the rest of its body.
Relather and rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.

Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, and then rinse it again, even beyond when
you think you've got all the soap out. Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil
(one teaspoonful per quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.
Do NOT use vinegar, lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will
damage the dog's coat and skin.

Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
completely dry to avoid chilling.

2. Dry shampoos

Dogs with very oily coats my benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
baths. Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
cornstarch are all effective. They can be used frequently without
fear of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.

Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush. Then brush
the whole dog normally to get all the powder out.

3. Tar

Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
the tar from your pet's skin. Instead, trim away excess coat
containing tar where possible. Soak remaining tarry parts in
vegetable oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.

4. Sap

Sap (especially pine tree sap) often must simply be trimmed off.
However, some people have had success with Murphy's Oil Soap.

E. Dental Care.

1. Hygiene

Dogs suffer from tartar buildup, just as people do. Some dogs seem
particularly prone to tartar buildup and associated problems, others
never seem to get tartar, although most older dogs will show *some*
signs of tartar. Untreated, tartar can cause all kinds of costly
dental problems including loss of teeth.

Make sure it gets plenty of dry and hard objects to chew and munch on.
In particular, Nylabones are most recommended for keeping teeth clean
(and may be all that some dogs need). Dry dog food may help as well.

To prevent problems, brush your dog's teeth regularly. Pet stores
sell dog toothbrushes and toothpaste. Human toothpaste is not meant
for consumption and is too abrasive, so use the dog-formulated
toothpaste. Baking soda and a washcloth will work as well. To do
this successfully, you must get your dog to let you handle its mouth.
This is, of course, easiest with puppies. For an older dog, you may
have to work for a while before it will let you open its mouth, look
at it, and eventually brush it.

Even if your dog is not prone to tartar buildup, the occasional
brushing of its teeth helps keep your dog amenable to having its mouth
handled -- always useful.

2. Diseases

Peridontal disease is the most common of canine dental problems. Food
is trapped in little pockets alongside the teeth and decay. As these
pockets become infected, the gums become soft and mushy and recede
from the teeth. Pushing on the sides of the gums may cause pus to
rise. The dog often has fetid breath. This is best prevented by
keeping the teeth clean and tartar buildup down, although treatment is
possible.

Dogs do not commonly get cavities. When they do occur, it is more
often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown. Cavities can
lead to root abscesses.

Abscessed roots: this often causes a swelling just below the animal's
eye. Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.

F. Disease Transmission (Zoonoses).

That is, transmission between people and dogs.

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these. Things to
watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.

Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
affect both dogs and humans. Again, simple hygienic precautions will
avoid most problems.

G. Food.

There are many dog food formulations out there, ranging from
inexpensive grocery-brands to expensive premium food. You should find
out what suits your dog best: while many dogs have done just fine on
dog chow, others do much better with other foods such as Nature's
Recipe, Iams, Pro-Plan, etc.

The theory behind the more expensive foods is that they are more
digestible and contain less "bulk" and "fill." Hence, your dog will
eat less in volume (and thus the extra cost of the food is somewhat
offset) and excrete small and firm stools. You may need to experiment
to find out how your dog does on different brands. Dogs vary in their
individual reactions.

Food should be fed once or twice a day. Put the food down and take it
up again after ten to twenty minutes regardless of whether your dog
has finished eating it. This discourages "picky eating" and lets you
be certain of exactly how much food your dog is eating. Frequently, a
problem is first indicated when your dog's feeding goes off, so
scheduled feeding like this (rather than free feeding) will tip you
off to potential problems right away.

The larger or younger your dog is, the better multiple daily feedings
are; simply divide up each day's portion into individual feedings.
Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least once a
day.

1. Vegetables

Many dogs appreciate vegetables. In particular if your dog is fond of
munching on the grass, you can often alleviate this by feeding
vegetables to your dog. Stick with fresh, raw foods: carrots,
broccoli and cauliflower stems, apple cores, etc are popular. Stay
away from potatoes and onions.

2. People food

Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to
result in an overweight dog. Third, if your dog develops the habit of
gulping down any food it can get, it may seriously poison or distress
itself someday.

3. Eating problems: gulping, etc.

For a dog that gulps the food down so rapidly that gas is a result,
you can slow down the rate of eating by putting large, clean rocks
(3-4" diameter) in the dish along with the food.

H. Incontinence.

The most common incidence of incontinence is in the older spayed
bitch. Most often this is due to a hormonal imbalance and as such is
easily treated in one of two drugs. The traditional way is with doses
of DES (estrogen). Typically, the dosage is varied until the
incontinence stops, and often the dosage can be later reduced
altogether. Another method of treatment is with phenylpropanolamine
(PPA, brand name Dexatrim) which tightens all the muscles.

DES replaces the hormones, restoring the hormonal balance. PPA works
independently of the hormones and as such, may introduce new problems.
Both drugs are known to cause problems and side effects, although
typically, the level of dosage that DES is administered at for
incontinence will not cause problems. At high dosages, DES is thought
to be linked with breast cancer and obesity. Since PPA tightens
*every* muscle in the body, it can potentially cause serious side
effects, especially with the heart. There is speculation that PPA is
often prescribed at dosages too high for dogs. In humans, PPA is not
advised when thyroid levels are low; this might also be a problem with
dogs.

Which drug is safer for your particular spayed bitch depends on the
particular dog and her particular veterinary history. What's best for
one dog might be really bad for another, depending on what other
veterinary conditions or susceptibilities she has.

I. Neutering.

If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
either sex.

Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
spayed and dogs are castrated. However, general usage is that bitches
are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.

Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.

Tip: let your dog eliminate before taking it in and again after
getting it back. Many dogs, especially crate-trained dogs, will
not eliminate in the vet's kennels during their stay.

1. Castration

Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
close it up. The scrotum will shrink and soon disappear. You will
want to neuter the dog around six months of age, although dogs can be
neutered at any time after this. Stud dogs are typically neutered
after they are too old to breed, and they suffer no ill effects.

2. Spaying

Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
are removed). She must be put under general anesthesia. A large
patch of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the
incision) off the lower abdomen. You may have to take your bitch back
in to remove the stitches. From a health point of view, the earlier
the bitch is spayed, the better. Ideally, she should be spayed before
her first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related
cancer (e.g., breast cancer) later in life considerably; not to
mention guaranteeing no unwanted puppies. The most dramatic rise in
risk of cancer occurs after the second heat or two years of age,
whichever comes first before spaying. After that, while the risk is
high, it does not rise further.

3. Post-op recovery

You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
its stitches, and consult your vet if it does. You might, in
persistent cases, need to get an Elizabethan collar to prevent the
animal from reaching the stitches. Puffiness, redness, or oozing
around the stitches should be also reported to the vet. Some stitches
"dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
removal.

For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
section on neutering in Assorted Topics.

4. Cost

The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done. There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption. Local
animal clinics will often offer low-cost neutering. Be aware that
spaying will always cost more than castrating at any given place since
spaying is a more complex operation. Vets almost always charge more
than clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often
keep the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on
any later complications. Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.

Pet Assistance has a program to help you locate low-cost neutering.
There may be an 800 number, but the San Diego number is 619-697-7387.
They can refer you to a veterinarian in your area who will perform
low-cost spaying or neutering.

5. Effect on behavior

There is an extensive discussion on the effect neutering has on a
dog's behavior in the Assorted Topics chapter of the FAQ. In summary,
no one really knows, and for every example presented, a counter-example
can be made.

J. Overheating.

Dogs are not as good as people in shedding excess heat. You should
take general care during hot and summer weather that your dog does not
get too hot. Make sure shade and water is available and that there is
some fresh air. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN A CAR on a hot day! Cars
heat up much more quickly than you think and that one inch or so of
open window will not help. If you park in the shade, the sun may move
more quickly than you think. A water-filled pump sprayer can help
keep your dog cool. But your best bet is to prevent overheating.

Heatstroke is indicated by some or more of the following symptoms:
* rapid or heavy breathing
* bright red tongue
* thick saliva
* vomiting
* bloody diarrhea
* unsteadiness
* hot, dry nose
* legs, ears hot to touch
* extreme: glassy-eyed, grey lips

Wet the dog down gradually using cool, not cold water. Get it out of
direct sunlight. Give it a little cool water to drink at a time.
Cold compresses to the belly and groin helps. Get the dog to the vet.
A dog that has had heatstroke before can be prone to getting it again.

K. Administering Medicine: Pills, Liquids, Eyedrops, Injections.

There are many devices to aid in dosing and pilling. Pill plungers
are effective and available from RC Steele. A syringe with no needle
is good for liquids. Ask your vet for some other ideas.

1. Pills

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
on top of and in the center of the tongue. Close the dogs mouth and
hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows. If it
licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill. Giving it a
treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.

You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
Pill plungers work well, also.

2. Liquids

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek. Seal the lips
around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid. Large amounts can
be given this way. Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used. Your vet can help you
out here.

3. Eyedrops

If you must administer eyedrops to your dog and it resists, try
the following trick: stand *behind* the dog and hold the eye open to
administer the drops. You don't appear as dominating this way.

L. Puberty.

1. Bitches

In general, a bitch can start her first estrus, or "heat" between the
ages of 6 months to 18 months. If you know when her dam first went
into heat, that will give you a good indication of what to expect with
your puppy. It is often felt that the larger breeds take longer to
enter heat than the smaller ones felt, but familial patterns, if known,
are a more reliable indicator.

The first signs of estrus include: a small amount of clear discharge,
a modest swelling of the vulva (the external genital fold), and
increased licking of the area. Some bitches have a shortened
attention span. This period can last from 4 to 14 days. Other dogs
will show an interest in licking the area (as opposed to just smelling
it) as well.

The next stage includes bloody discharge, which can be anything from a
few spots of blood to leaving a trail behind as they go, and increased
swelling of the vulva. The nipples will enlargen somewhat. This
period can last anywhere from 4-14 days as well. At the end of this
stage, the vulva is at maximal size.

At this point the bitch is fertile and ready to be bred, and will
accept male dogs. This stage lasts for several days. After the first
heat cycle, the bitch's vulva and nipples will shrink down, but not to
the puppy size that they were before.

However, there is much individual variation. Some bitches can show
little or no sign of being in season throughout much of their estrus
cycle. Some will always accept male dogs (even when they are not yet
fertile) and others never accept them.

Spaying is generally done when the bitch is *not* in season. The
increased vascularity (higher blood flow) in the organs makes the
operation more risky. In addition, such an operation would alter
the balance of hormones in the dog's body rather abruptly, a potential
source of problems. However, it *can* be done, and often is if the
bitch winds up unintentionally pregnant, for example.

2. Dogs

Male puppies are born with undescended testicles, just like human
males. Somewhere between 6 months to a year, the testicles will
descend. At about this time the levels of testosterone are
peaking. An intact male dog between 10 and 12 months of age has
about five times the testosterone level he will have in his final
adult intensity, if he is not neutered!

Male puppies will urinate like female puppies (by squatting) until
about the time their testicles descend, and then will generally start
to urinate standing up. Initial confusion is normal at this stage: be
prepared for the puppy to raise the wrong leg, try to raise both legs,
try to walk at the same time, or even try to use people as a "post"!
You can encourage him to restrict his marking by praising him when he
marks an acceptable item and scolding him when he is not. Discourage
him from marking when you are on a walk; get him to mark around your
yard as much as possible. (Marking, as opposed to urinating, is when
only a small amount of urine is deposited.) Neutering early may or
may not affect this behavior.

A dog with one undescended testicle is a monorchid dog; when neither
descend, he is considered cryptorchid. Undescended testicles often
become cancerous and should be removed. Furthermore, such dogs should
not be bred since the condition is hereditary.

M. Skin Problems.

Remember that a dog's skin is composed of only one layer, so it is much
more delicate than a human's skin, which has three layers. A dog's skin
depends on the hair and oils on it to keep it in good condition.

Some preventive steps:

* Keep your dog properly fed to prevent dry skin
* When bathing your dog, use dog-formulated shampoo to prevent dry skin
* Groom your dog regularly; some problems are caused by matted hair
providing breeding grounds for a variety of skin diseases, regular
grooming also helps keep you aware of any incipient problems
* Keep your dog flea and parasite free
* Check your dog regularly for foxtails, burrs, and other sharp
objects it may pick up when outside

1. Relieving dry skin

Some things to try:

* Shampoos with lanolin
* A good soak in cool water
* Non-drying shampoo: eg, Hy-Lyt EFA is non-allergenic
* Medicated shampoos may help with allergy-induced problems
* Avon's Skin-So-Soft(tm) added to the rinse water

2. Allergies followed by staph infections

Once a dog has an allergic reaction, it is quite common to have a
secondary staph infection. Many vets aren't familiar with this. The
staph infection may stay around long after the allergy is gone.

A vet that specializes in dermatology can be of great help in dealing
with skin problems. See if your vet can refer you to such a person.

Some studies on primrose and fish oil in helping relieve or cure
secondary infections from allergies are documented in DM, March 1992.
More information may also be obtained from writing to the RVC
Dermatology Dept, Royal College St, London. NW1.

3. Summary table

It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to examine any of these skin
problems in great detail, but here is a summary table of possible
problems. Summarized from the summary tables in Carlson & Giffin,
pages 67-69.

Itchy Skin Disorders:

Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scabies | *intense* itching, small red spots, typical crusty ear tips
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Walking | puppies 2-12wks, dry flakes move from head to neck to back,
Dandruff | mild itchiness
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Fleas | itching/scratching on back, tail, hindquarters
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lice | on poorly kept/matted coat dogs, uncommon, may have bald spots
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ticks | irritation at site of bite, often beneath ear flaps or thin skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Damp Hay | severe itch from worm larvae, contacted from damp marsh hay
Itch | (regional)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Inhalation | severe itch, face rubbing, licking paws, seasonal
Allergy | also regional
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Flea Allergy| scratching continues after fleas killed, pimple rash
Dermatitis |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Contact | itching/irritation at site of contact
Dermatitis |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Allergic | repeated or continuous contact (eg flea collar),
Contact Derm. rash may spread
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lick sores | "boredom sores", licking starts at wrists/ankles
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hormone-related Hair Loss or Poor Hair Growth:

Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thyroid | loss of hair
Deficiency | (see Canine Ailments)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cortisone | hair loss in symmetrical pattern, esp. trunk, skin is thin
Excess | may also be from steroid treatments
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen | greasy hair, hair loss in flanks/abdomen, wax in ears, loss of
excess | hair around genitals, enlargened nipples, dry skin, brittle hair
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen | scanty hair growth, smooth soft skin
deficiency |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Acanthosis | hair loss in armpit folds, black thick greasy rancid skin
Nigrans |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Seborrhea | "dandruff", hair/skin oily, yellow brown scales on skin,
| resembles ringworm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Other Hair Loss, etc:

Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Collie Nose | sunburn on lightly pigmented nose, loss of hair next to nose
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ringworm | scaly/crusty/red circular patches .5-2in diameter w/hair loss
| in center and red margin at edge (not from a worm)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic | hair loss around eyelids, mouth, front leg, young dogs
mange #1 |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic | progression of #1, patches enlarge & coalesce, pyoderma
mange #2 | complications, affects all ages
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Calluses, | gray/hairless/wrinkled skin over elbow, pressure points
elbow sores |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

With Pus Drainage (Pyoderma):

Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy | impetigo: pus filled blisters, crusty hairless skin
Dermatitis | on abdomen, groin; acne: purple-red bumps on chin, lower lip
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hair pore | pimple-like bumps on back, sometimes draining sinus,
infection | hair loss
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Skin Wrinkle| inflamed skin, foul odor in lip fold, facial fold,
Infection | vulvar fold, tail fold
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hot Spots | in heavy coated dogs, painful inflamed patches of skin with
| a wet, pus covered surface from which hair is lost
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cellulitis | painful hot inflamed skin (wound infections, foreign bodies,
| breaks in skin)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Abscesses | pockets of pus beneath the skin, swells, comes to a head & drains
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy | under 4mos, sudden painful swelling of lips, eyelids,
Strangles | ears and face, draining sores, crusts, and sinus tracts
| (prompt vet attention required, do not pop "acne")
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lumps or Bumps on/beneath Skin:
(all lumps should be checked by vet even if not apparently painful)

Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Papillomas, | anywhere, including mouth, not painful
Warts | can look like chewing gum stuck to skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hematomas | (bruises) - esp. on ears, from trauma
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tender Knots| esp. at site of shot or vaccination, painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cysts | smooth lumps beneath skin, slow growth, possible cheesy
| discharge, possible infection, otherwise not painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Possibly | rapid growth, hard & fixed to surrounding tissue,
cancerous | any lump from a bone, starts to bleed, a mole that spreads or
lump | ulcerates, open sores that do not heal (only way to tell for
| sure is a biopsy)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

4. Diagnosing

Skin problems are not easy to diagnose and cure, but there is a lot of
research going on. Something that can help is to keep a diary for the
dog. Every day, record what the dog ate, what the weather was like,
whether it is itching or not, and anything else that might be relevant
(visitors, for instance, when it is bathed, and so forth). It's
sometimes hard to recall all the variables that might be affecting the
dog, but if you keep a diary, sometimes patterns become very clear.

N. Temperature.

Normal temperature range for a dog is 100 to 103 degrees Fahrenheit.
Because dogs regulate their temperature less efficiently than people
do, there is more variation in "normal" temperature. Your dog's
temperature will be higher just after exercise, on a hot day, while
snuggled under a blanket, etc.

Dog's temperature is normally taken rectally. Try a digital read-out
rectal thermometer, available at any drug store. Put a little
Vaseline or KY Jelly on the tip, insert gently into the rectum (not
too far), and hold for a minute or so. The digital model has a beeper
that goes off when "done." The thermometer is easy to clean with soap
& water or wipe with alcohol.

O. Trimming Nails.

Most dogs need to have nails trimmed at some point. While the vet
will often clip them for you, many dogs need their nails trimmed more
often than that to prevent injuries and other problems associated
with overgrown nails.

A tip: Look for illustrations of dog nails. Most dog care books will
have one. Cardinal (a dog products vendor) provides a small poster
that illustrates not only normal nail clipping but also how to
gradually work back the length of nails that have grown too long and
is quite informative.

1. Clipping

Use nail clippers available at pet stores. Look for the guillotine
type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
dog's nail) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
easier this procedure is. There is another kind that looks like
scissors with hooked tips that are also good, and may be easier to
handle (however, the blades cannot be replaced on this type).

Before cutting the nails, examine them carefully. If the nails are
are white, the difference between the nail and the pink quick is easy
to see (use good lighting). If the nails are dark, it will be much
harder to tell where the quick is, in which case you must take care.

If your dog resists having its nails trimmed, try trimming them while
you sit on a couch with the dog on its back in your lap. By putting
the dog on its back, you make the nails accessible and put the dog in
a submissive position where they are less apt to fight. As with many
things, this is easiest if you start while your dog is still a pup.

If the cutter is sharp, the nails won't crack if you cut at right
angles to the nail. that is, hold it so that the blades are on the
top and bottom of the nail, not to the sides of the nail.

Do not cut below the quick. It will be painful to your dog and bleed
everywhere. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. It will just mean
trimming more often. Clip the portion above the quick for each nail
and don't forget the dewclaws. Keep a styptic pencil on hand to
staunch any blood flow. Flour or cornstarch will help in a pinch.

Dewclaws are a "fifth" toe, positioned as a "thumb" to the rest of the
nails and they do not touch the ground. Not all dogs have them, and
they may be found on the front legs only or on all four legs. Many
dogs have their dewclaws removed when they are puppies to prevent
infection resulting from easily injured dewclaws. Some adult dogs
that regularly tear their dewclaws should have them removed. While
they take longer to heal than three-day old puppies that have had
theirs removed do, the pain of periodically tearing them and going in
to the vet to have them bandaged back up makes the surgery worth
while.

2. Grinding

The grinder avoids the potential problems of cutting the quick, nails
cracking, and sharp edges afterwards. The nails can also be thinned,
allowing the quick to recede, resulting in shorter nails and a tighter
paw.

RC Steele and other mail-order companies sell them for about $45.
One model is the Oster Pet Nail Groomer, Model 129, with two speeds.
Some dogs may be spooked by the noise. It may help to watch someone
who knows how to use it first.

3. Filing

You can use a wood rasp and file your dog's nails down. Also, if you
clip them, using a plain file afterwards helps smooth the edges down
and keep them neat. You can use "people files" or purchase files
shaped for this purpose.

P. Vaccinations.

1. Regularly scheduled shots

An indispensable part of keeping your dog healthy is to keep its
vaccinations up-to-date. A table, lifted from Carlson & Giffin, shows
all the major vaccinations (at minimum) that a dog in the US should
have. Conditions in your area may necessitate additional shots; ask
your vet about them as they may not always be routinely included in
normal shot programs. DHLPP is a combination shot: Distemper,
(Canine) Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, (Canine) Parainfluenza, (Canine)
Parvovirus.

Age Vaccine Recommended
--------------------------------------------------------------
5-8 wks | Distemper - measles - CPI
------------------+-------------------------------------------
14-16 wks | DHLPP, Rabies
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & annually | DHLPP
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & | Rabies
3 yr intervals |
--------------------------------------------------------------

Vaccinations may fail under the following conditions:

* vaccinations are improperly administered (should always be by or
supervised by a vet)
* the dog has some innate inability to respond
* the dog has already been exposed to the disease in question
* the puppy is too young for the vaccination to "take"

2. Other vaccines

Not an exhaustive list: Other vaccines and preventives should also
be given such as heartworm, Lyme disease, etc, when needed. Heartworm
prevention should begin around 5 months, but then it depends on where
you live. Those living in warmer, damper areas with higher
concentration of heartworm may want to start earlier. Lyme disease
vaccine instructions recommend giving it around 12 weeks; Bordatella
vaccines (for Kennel cough) around 6 months or earlier depending on risk.

3. Vaccine overload?

Be sure your dog is safe and vaccinated against everything you think
the dog may be exposed to, however, don't overload its system! You
can do more harm than good by vaccinating your dog for everything all
at once than if you stagger the vaccinations and let the individual
immunities build up gradually.

4. Up-to-date on shots?

Do you know what it means when your vet tells you your dog has ALL its
shots? Chances are, your dog isn't. Stay informed and read up in
some of the dog literature about what types of vaccinations your dog
should have. Then make sure your vet has administered vaccines for the
appropriate things -- it's up to YOU to make sure your dog has *all*
its shots, not your vet.

For an interesting article on vaccinations, see the May 1992 issue
of _Dog World_.

Q. Vomiting.

One of the most common and non-specific symptoms that a dog can have.
You must look at how and what it is vomiting. If your dog vomits once
or twice and then seems its normal self, it is probably not serious.

1. Non-serious causes

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Most commonly: overeating. Animals that gulp their food and
immediately exercise (esp. puppies) are likely to vomit. This is not
serious. Feeding in smaller portions more often helps eliminate this
problem. In particular, if the vomit looks like a solid tube of
partially or non digested food, your dog ate too fast.

Eating grass or other indigestible material is also a common cause of
vomiting.

2. Types of vomiting

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)

Repeated vomiting: Its last meal is first vomited. Then a clear,
frothy liquid. This suggests a stomach irritant. Grass, spoiled
food, other indigestibles, and certain infectious illnesses (such as
gastroenteritis) all cause irritation of the stomach lining.

Sporadic vomiting: The dog vomits off and on, but not continuously.
No relationship to meals, poor appetite. Haggard appearance and
listlessness may indicate an internal organ disorder, a chronic
illness, a heavy worm infestation, or diabetes. A thorough checkup is
called for.

Vomiting blood: Fresh blood indicates a break in the mucus lining
somewhere between the mouth and the upper small bowel. Common causes
are foreign bodies, tumors and ulcers. Material which looks like
coffee grounds is old, partly digested blood -- the problem is
somewhere in the stomach or duodenum. Vomiting blood is always
serious and requires a trip to the vet.

Fecal vomiting: If the vomit is foul and smells like feces, there is
an obstruction somewhere in the intestinal tract. Blunt or
penetrating abdominal trauma is another cause. The dog will become
rapidly dehydrated with this type of vomiting and requires vet
attention.

Projectile vomiting: The vomit is forcefully expelled, sometimes for a
distance of several feet. It is indicative of complete blockage in
the upper gastrointestinal tract. Foreign bodies, hairballs, duodenal
ulcers, tumors and strictures are possible causes. Intracranial
pressure can also cause projectile vomiting, causes can be brain
tumor, encephalitis, and blood clots. Take the dog to the vet.

Vomiting foreign objects: Includes bone splinters, rubber balls,
(pieces of) toys, sticks and stones. Sometimes worms. You may want
to have the vet check your pet for any other foreign objects, although
not all of these will show up readily on x-ray scans.

Emotional vomiting: Sometimes excited or upset dogs vomit. Remove the
dog from the source of distress. If it is something it will encounter
often, you will have to train the dog to remain calm around the
source.

Motion sickness: Vomits in the car. Most dogs will outgrow this
problem. Check with your vet if it does not. See Carsickness in
Assorted Topics for further comments.

R. Worms.

1. Summary

Worm Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roundworms | Pot belly, dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of weight
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hookworms | Anemia, diarrhea, bloody stools (esp. puppies)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tapeworms | "Rice" on anal area or in stools, possible diarrhea/vomiting
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Whipworms | Loss of weight, some diarrhea, difficult to detect
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Threadworms | Profuse watery diarrhea, lung infection symptoms (esp. puppies)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

2. Prevention

(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)

Most worms have a lifecycle that makes it easy to reinfest dogs
because only part of that lifecycle is on the dog. Steps you can take
to control worms in general:

* If you have a kennel, do not use dirt. A water tight surface that
can be hosed down is best; gravel works also. Remove stools from
pens daily.
* Lawns should be kept short and watered only when necessary.
Remove stools from the yard daily.
* Control fleas, lice, and rodents, as all these pests can be
intermediate hosts for tapeworms.
* Do not let your dog roam, as it may ingest tainted meat. Any meat
fed to your dog must be thoroughly cooked.

2. Puppies

Most puppies have worms, as some immunity to worms only comes after
six months of ages and the mother will infect them with her dormant
worm larvae. Puppies should be wormed at 2-3 weeks and again at 4-6
weeks. You should be especially vigilant for worms while your puppy
is still growing; a bad case of worms can seriously interfere with its
development. Bring fresh fecal samples in regularly to the vet for
analysis.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/working
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



WORKING DOGS.

A. Schutzhund.
B. Search and Rescue Dogs.
C. Sled Dogs.
D. Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.
E. Police Dogs.
F. Water Rescue Dogs.

A. Schutzhund.

Schutzhund dogs are generally considered working dogs, as many of them
are subsequently used as police dogs and guard dogs. My thanks to
Michael Sierchio for this section.

1. What is Schutzhund?

Schutzhund is a German word meaning "protection dog". It refers to a
sport that focuses on developing and evaluating those traits in dogs
that make them more useful and happier companions to their owners.

Schutzhund is a dog training and breeding regimen developed originally
in the 20's by the Deutsches Shaeferhund Verein (German Shepherd Dog
Club), or SV, in order to maintain the working ability of the breed.
While the term Schutzhund means literally "protection dog", the
training involves work equally in tracking, obedience and protection.
In order to get a Schutzhund degree a dog must pass all three phases
of the work. Also, a working title (at least a SchH I) is required for
breed survey purposes, and in order to register an approved litter.

The first Schutzhund trial was held in Germany in 1901 to emphasize
the correct working temperament and ability in the German Shepherd
breed. SV, the parent club of the breed, developed the Schutzhund
test as a way of maintaining reliable dogs with traits suitable for
breeding.

Many countries and working dog organizations have also adopted
Schutzhund as a sport and test of working performance. International
rules have been established by the Verein fuer Deutsche Hundesport
(VDH). The first SchH trial in the U.S. was held in California in
1970. In 1987 the U.S.A. alone sanctioned nearly 300 trials with a
total entry of 1,800 dog/handler teams.

Many breeds now participate in addition to GSDs. While there may be
individual dogs of a particular breed that may be suitable for the
work, the following are most consistently able to perform: GSDs,
Belgian Malinois, Doberman Pinscher, Bouvier des Flandres, Rottweiler,
Tervuren, Boxer, Giant Schnauzer, etc. Generally, these are larger
working breeds with strong prey and defense drives, and temperaments
suitable for the tasks of the training. Under current rules fighting
breeds, such as Pit Bulls, Am Staffs, Bull Staffs, etc. are not
eligible to participate.

There are three major degrees awarded - SchH I, SchH II, and SchH III
-- in order of increasing difficulty. SchH I (IPO I) is the
apprentice test. A SchH III dog must demonstrate a high level of
performance, ability and courage.

The traits that make for a good Schutzhund candidate mostly are innate
characteristics that must be bred for. Even among dogs bred out of
Schutzhund bitches and dogs, a minority have the ability to reach even
SchH I, and a small percentage will have the necessary drive,
intelligence and hardness to achieve a Sch III title. In addition to
breeding, early development is important. The young pup should not be
subjected to strong corrections or experience being dominated by
another dog, and all training and play should end on a positive note,
with the pup "winning."

The IPO (International Pruefungsordnung) rules, under the auspices of
the FCI (Federation Internationale Cynologique), are similar to the
Schutzhund rules and the trials are run in the same manner, with the
exception that no evaluation of the fighting instincts, courage or
hardness of an IPO entrant is performed during the protection phase of
the trial.

(The following information on degrees and requirements is from the
United Schutzhund Clubs of America)

Degree Min Age

B Begleithunde 12 months
(Companion Dog)

FH Faehrtenhundpruefung 16 months
(Advanced Tracking Dog Test)

AD Ausdauerpruefung 16 months
(Endurance Test)

SchH A Schutzhund Examination A 18 months
SchH I Schutzhund Examination I 18 months
SchH II Schutzhund Examination II 19 months
SchH III Schutzhund Examination III 20 months

The maximum score in each of the three phases shall be 100 points.
Therefore, the highest possible score in a trial is 300 points. A
degree shall be awarded only if a dog achieves at least 70 points in
Tracking and Obedience, and at least 80 points in Protection.

[For the purposes of illustration, I have included the rules for SchH I
trials]

SCHUTZHUND A

The Schutzhund A Examination is composed of phases B and C of the SchH I
Examination. The conduct of the examination is the same except that the
tracking phase is omitted, and the maximum possible score is 200 points.
This training degree is not accepted under the rules for conformation
shows, breeding requirements or breed surveys.

SCHUTZHUND I

Phase A - Tracking

Tracking a 350-400 pace long trail at least 20 minutes old with two
articles on a 10 meter tracking lead, or tracking without a lead. The
track has two 90 degree turns. The handler lays the track as
indicated by the judge, placing the first article in the middle of the
first or second leg without interrupting the pace or changing the
stride. The second article is deposited at the end of the track.

The handler reports to the judge with the dog, and indicates whether
the articles will be picked up or pointed out. The dog and handler
proceed to the scent pad at the beginning of the track. Prior to
tracking, and during the entire tracking phase, all force or pressure
is to be avoided. At the start, the dog must be given sufficient time
to absorb the scent.

The dog must begin quietly and pick up the scent with a deep nose. As
soon as the dog begins to track, the handler must stop and let the
length of the 10 meter leash slip through his/her hands. The handler
now follows at the distance of 10 meters, whether tracking with a lead
or without.

Immediately upon finding an article, the dog must convincingly stop,
stand, sit, or pick up the article, or return it to the handler. If
pointing out, the dog must lie, sit or stay. By lifting the article
high in the air, the handler indicates to the judge that it has been
found. The tracking leash is loosely held as the dog and handler
continue on the track. The articles are presented to the presiding
judge after completion of the track.

A faulty start, excessive circling on corners, continued praise,
faulty picking up or pointing of the articles, dropping articles,
pronounced quartering, high nose, urinating or defecating on the
track, or hunting mice, etc. will be penalized.

Phase B - Obedience

Heeling on Leash and Impartiality - 15 Points

Starting from the basic heeling position, the dog and handler proceed
for 40 paces without stopping. A turnabout is performed, and after
10-15 paces a running heel followed by a slow heel, each of about 10
paces, are demonstrated. During a normal pace at least one left turn,
one right turn, and one left turnabout must be performed. A halt must
be performed after the turns and while the handler is moving straight.
A voice command is permitted only when starting the exercise, or when
changing pace. The judge will direct the handler through a group of at
least 4 people, amd the handler is required to stop at least once in
the group. The group is expected to mingle about.

Heeling off Leash - 20 Points

When requested by the judge, the leash will be removed while in the
basic position. The handler moves through the group with the dog
freely heeling. After demonstrating ar least one halt, the handler and
dog leave the group and perform the heeling exercises that were
performed on leash. While the dog and handler are performing the
off-leash exercises, at least 2 gun shots (6 - 9 mm) are to be fired
(not while moving in the group) and the dog must remain indifferent to
the noise. Special emphasis is placed on indifference to the gun. If
the judge deems the dog to be insecure or should the dog run from the
shot, the judge may excuse the dog from further participation.

Sit Exercise - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line. After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to sit - the dog should quickly come to a sit
position. The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces without
interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to face the
dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler returns to the right
side of the dog.

Down with Recall - 10 Points

From the basic heeling position the handler and free heeling dog
proceed in a straight line. After at least ten paces, the handler
issues the voice command to down - the dog should quickly come to a
down position. The handler shall continue for at least 30 paces
without interrupting pace or direction, then stop and turn around to
face the dog. At the direction of the judge, the handler shall recall
the dog. The dog should come to the handler with a spirited and swift
motion and sit close in front. Upon a "heel" command, the dog should
quickly come to a sit position next to the handler.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler on Level Ground - 10
Points

The dog sitting freely next to the handler should, when given the
voice command, quickly move toward the article tossed approximately 10
paces away. The dog must immediately and quickly bring the article
back to the handler, and sit close in front. The dog must hold the
article until, after a brief pause, the handler issues the command to
let go. After the command to heel, the dog should come quickly to the
heel position. In place of an article belonging to the handler, a
dumbbell can be used -- however, balls, toys, etc. are not considered
personal articles.

Retrieving an Article belonging to the Handler over a 1 Meter High and
1.5 Meter Wide Brush Hurdle - 15 Points

The handler assumes a position at an acceptable distance in front of
the hurdle while the dog sits freely next to the handler. The article
is tossed over the hurdle. Upon voice command, the dog shall clear
the hurdle without touching it, pick up the article, return over the
jump and sit closely in front of the handler. The article must be held
by the dog until the handler removes it with the command to let go.

Go Ahead and Down - 10 Points

When requested by the judge, the handler and freely heeling dog
proceed a few paces in the designated direction. The command to "go
out" should be executed by simultaneously stopping and lifting the arm
to indicate direction. The dog must move at a fast pace at least 25
paces. The dog must lay down quickly upon voice command. At the
request of the judge, the handler proceeds to pick up the dog by
moving to the right side of the dog, commanding the dog to sit, and
then putting on the leash.

Long Down Under Distraction

Prior to the start of the obedience exercises of another dog, the
handler commands the dog into a down position at a spot designated by
the judge. The handler moves approximately 40 paces away within sight
of the dog. The handler remains quiet with his back to the dog. The
dog must remain in the down position without additional influences
from the handler until the other dog concludes the first 6 exercises.
The finish will be like the Go Ahead and Down, above.

Phase C - Protection

Search for the Helper - 5 Points

The helper is hidden in a position 40 paces away so that the dog must
make searching passes to the right and left, or vice versa. The
handler and dog must be out of sight when the helper moves into the
hiding place. At the request of the judge, the handler releases the
dog and gives the command to search towards the empty hiding place,
then towards the helper. The command "here" and the dog's name may be
used.

Hold and Bark - 10 Points

When the dog reaches the helper it should immediately and continuously
bark. The dog should not bother the helper by gripping or bumping.
The handler is to remain at a distance of approximately 25 paces. When
the judge indicates, the handler will pick up the dog and hold it
securely so that the helper can leave the hiding place.

Attack - 35 Points

A helper is directed to proceed to another hiding place at least 50
paces away. Upon directions from the judge, the handler will proceed
with a free heeling dog towards the hiding place. The handler is now
attacked from the front by the helper, who suddenly comes out of the
hiding place. No contact is permitted between the handler and helper.
The dog must immediately attack and demonstrate a firm grip. The dog
will be struck with a flexible, padded stick -- two blows will be
given on the flanks, thighs, or withers. Encouragement may be given
via vocal command. When requested by the judge, the helper stops the
aggression. The dog must independently release, or release his grip
upon receiving the command to "out". After receiving the command from
the judge, the handler will hold the dog by the collar.

Pursuit and Hold - 50 Points

The helper makes threatening gestures and runs away. After he has
gone about 50 paces, the handler sends the dog toward the helper and
remains standing still. The judge will instruct the helper to turn
around and run toward the dog when the dog is about 30 paces away.
Using aggressive and threatening motions, the helper will run toward
the dog. When the dog has taken a firm grip, the helper will press
the dog briefly without applying the stick, then cease resistance.
The dog must release, either independently, or after receiving the
command to "out". After the dog has let go, the handler will remain
standing without influencing the dog. Upon a signal from the judge,
the handler will approach the dog and helper at a normal pace. The
handler will order the helper to step back from the dog, and order the
dog to lay down. The helper will be searched and disarmed before
transport to the judge. The dog will be on leash during transport.
The handler will leave the area with the dog on leash.

The fighting drive, including courage and hardness, is to be
scrutinized during the entire protection phase. This will be rated as
pronounced, sufficient, or insufficient.

Only energetic fighting and a firm grip will allow a full score. A
dog that does not release after one command to let go, or who is not
under control of the handler, or who fails any exercise of the
protection phase cannot pass the test. If a dog fails a single
exercise, it will be excused from the remainder of the phase. No
deductions are made for a dog that alertly circles the helper.

2. References:

Barwig, Susan. _Schutzhund_. Quality Press, Englewood, CO. 1978.

B. Search and Rescue Dogs.

SAR comprises a large variety of abilities, some of which are covered
separately below. SAR varies by locale: searching for victims in
rubble (avalanches or collapsed buildings) is different from searching
wilderness/forest areas for a missing person. SAR is often linked
with local law enforcement, as SAR dogs can trail escaped convicts or
suspects from a crime scene.

1. Where to get started

It is best to affiliate with a reputable SAR organization. You may
even wish to join the reserves unit with your local law enforcement --
this entitles you to insurance protection, for example. Be picky
about finding a professional organization to join: there are many
wannabe clubs out there that would really just get in the way of an
actual SAR effort, and there is variability even with law-enforcement
groups.

There are some national groups and many states have their own
organizations (e.g., California's CARDA -- CAlifornia Rescue Dog
Association, WOOF -- Wilderness Finders, Inc., SSD -- Sierra Search
Dogs). An additional benefit is being able to learn from people
who've been at this for a long time: no book or self-training will
ever give you the valuable insights you can gain this way. These
types of organization will have their own certification and testing
processes. For example, WOOF requires dogs and handlers to be dual
certified -- wilderness AND disaster SAR.

A professional organization should have law enforcement liasons (or
even be part of the police force) as any search, even for a missing
person, has the potential for turning into a hunt for a felon. Some
organizations are put together from law enforcement reserve officers,
sometimes active duty officers. Others simply work closely with local
law enforcement. Cooperation for the protection of everyone is
essential.

Any dog can detect scent. Some are individually better at it than
others. Some breeds (especially the hounds) have been bred so that as
a class, they contain many more talented individuals. A dog's
conformation, structure and temperament will all affect its talent at
tracking or trailing. But the breed doesn't really matter, except for
serious and professional tracking. You can have fun with tracking on
your own. All you have to do is train your dog to follow its nose.
Some extremely practical information, whether or not you're serious
about SAR, to get started with can be found in:

Button, Lue. _Practical Scent Dog Training_. Alpine Publications,
Inc. 214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537. 1990. ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test. Starts with
young puppies. Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at
Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

2. Tracking and Trailing

There are two major ways to follow the trail of a person, although
they're really on two ends of a continuum. _Tracking_ is the process
where the dog follows the person's exact path. _Trailing_ is the
process where the dog follows the person's scent, which may or may not
approximate the path the person took because of factors affecting the
dispersal of scent such as wind and temperature. Contrary to popular
opinion, water does not disrupt a tracking or trailing dog, the dog
will simply cast around for your trail on the other side. In
addition, dogs can locate corpses in the water, so the theory that
water does not hold scent does not, well, hold water. Dogs can even
trail people in cars, from the scent that blows out of the window or
through the vents of the car.

Some common terminology: A Track Solid dog follows a track, and
usually the newest. A Track Sure dog will follow the track associated
with the scent he started with, and will not follow a track laid by a
different person as long as the second track was laid at a different
time. A Track Clean Dog will follow the correct trail even if it
crosses other trails laid at the same time. For example, for disaster
work (e.g., finding victims in rubble), dogs lead their handlers
towards any human scent from the rubble; this is "tracking solid." A
Bloodhound, given a scent article, will "track clean," finding that
same individual regardless of whatever crosses the track.

To start trailing a specific individual, the dog needs an
uncontaminated scent article. Best items are underwear, T-shirts, or
something that the person has directly handled. The scent article is
just as much evidence as the "smoking gun" is, unfortunately, many
people (including law enforcement folks) are still unaware of how to
use scent as evidence and often handle, and thus contaminate,
potential scent articles. Dogs can still get around this by doing the
"missing member" search: the dog takes note of which scent on the
article is not immediately present and searches for that person.

Traditionally, people think of SAR dogs hunting through forest or
wilderness for lost hikers or children. While this is still quite
true, SAR dogs also find escaped prisoners, lost [mentally impaired]
patients, lost children in the city or the suburbs, suspects fleeing a
crime scene. As a result, urban SAR is rapidly growing.

Bloodhounds are by far the best for performing difficult and long
trails. They are large (100-120 lbs), capable of covering great
distance, and their facial structure (loose skin) allows them to cup
and catch even the faintest scent. Their stubborn and patient
temperament allows them to stick with trails that are miles long.
Bloodhounds were originally bred for large prey, and have been used to
track people since about the 16th century. For smaller game, other
hounds were developed, with shorter legs and smaller size. These type
of hounds cannot cover trails as old or as long as the Bloodhound.

Labradors and German Shepherds are often used in tracking. They do
not do as well with older or longer trails, but are more than capable
of following trails within their limitations. Also because they can
work off leash better than the Bloodhound can, they can work more
rapidly if there is a need for haste.

3. Disaster search

Some SAR dogs are trained to search through rubble for people. In
this scenario, the dog is not finding a specific person, as is the
case with tracking and trailing. The dog is looking for any human
scent. Avalanches, collapsed buildings, airplane and train crashes
are all examples of sites where these kind of dogs are employed. Most
often, German Shepherds, Labradors, Belgian Sheepdogs, Malinois, and
similar sized breeds are used for this kind of work: these dogs work
well off leash (which Bloodhounds do not) and are suitably agile for
scrambling around in the debris (which Bloodhounds are not).

4. Cadaver search

Dogs can be trained to find cadavers, new or old. Some dogs are
employed on archeological digs to help locate old graves. Other dogs
are used by law enforcement to find recently dead people, or to
collect all the bones found in an area. Others find drowning victims.
This is a rapidly expanding field, with new methods of training
currently being developed.

4. Related testing

Many SAR organizations will put together mock disaster sites and
evaluate dogs sent over the sites. There are no standards or anything
like that except within a particular organization.

For tracking and trailing, AKC and ABC (American Bloodhound Club) have
a series of titles in tracking (TD, TDX) and trailing (MT, MTX). ABC
is negotiating with the AKC to add the trailing titles to its standard
set.

5. References

American Rescue Dog Association. _Search and Rescue Dogs_. Howell
Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-733-4.
ARDA outlines their philosophy and methods for SAR. This book is
excellent for an understanding of the depths of committment and work
to be a SAR volunteer. It is a compilation of notes made over a
thirty year period; consequently some of the information is out of
date. There are two main deficiencies in this book. The first is a
bias toward the German Shepherd Dog, such that they actually refuse
to use any other breed; the second is a seemingly cavalier disregard
for the consequences of deliberately searching for cadavers with SAR
dogs, when such dogs should always search for live scent
(particularly for disaster work).

Bryson, Sandy. _Search Dog Training_. Third printing. Boxwood
Press, 183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950. 1991 (c 1984).
ISBN: 0-910286-94-9.
A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
and many other topics.

Davis, L. Wilson. _Go Find! Training Your Dog to Track_. Ninth
printing, 1984. Howell Book House, Inc., New York. c1974.
ISBN: 0-87605-550-1 (hardcover).
Blurb: "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
scent training for dogs. This official status follows upon decades
of recognized achievement in these phases of Obedience training.
Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile
experimentation. Major Davis was an AKC licensed judge for all
classes of Obedience. He is presently training director of the
famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore. He organized and
headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement. Major Davis is a
recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
dedicated contributions to dog training."

Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD. _Scent: Training to Track,
Search, and Rescue_. Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado. 1982.
ISBN: 0-931-866-11-1.
Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
-- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
track. Then they use this background as a basis for training.
Topics include the science of scent, kindergarden puppy tracking,
tracking equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and
track, search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent
and the law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."

Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed. _Manhunters! Hounds of the
Big T_. Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373.
1984. ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardcover).
Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York. This
book recounts his experiences using Bloodhounds in trailing. Many
fascinating stories. Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
to locate dead bodies.

C. Sled Dogs.

My thanks to Stephen Lee for this section.

1. History

Prior to the formation of sled dog racing as a formal sport, sled dogs
were bred and used by native peoples of the polar regions of the world
in their everyday lives for survival in harsh climates. Two dogs
commonly employed in sledding are Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian
Huskies. These two breeds had quite different origins and uses.
Alaskan Malamutes originated with a group of Eskimo people known as
the Mahlemiut. The dogs of that time were very large freighting dogs,
capable of pulling heavy weight. The Mahlemiut people inhabited the
region in the upper part of the Anvik River in Alaska, and were spread
out over a large area. The Mahlemiut people used these dogs for
hauling food back to the villages. The gold rush in 1896 created a
high demand for these dogs. On the other hand, Siberian Huskies
originated with the Chuckchi people of northeastern Siberia. These
people had a Stone Age culture and used their dogs for a variety of
things, like herding reindeer and pulling loads. These dogs were
smaller and faster than their Mahlemiut counterparts. These dogs were
exported to Alaska at around the time of the gold rush. Thus the gold
rush played a very important role in the development of our modern day
sled dog breeds.

Sled dog racing began as a formal sport with the first All-Alaska
Sweepstakes race in 1908. Prior to this, Alaska's mushers had little
opportunity for recreation and they used their teams primarily for
work and transportation. Rules for the races were established, and
they provided a good diversion to the difficult living conditions. In
the 1920's, airplanes were gradually replacing sled dog teams for
transportation, freight hauling, and mail delivery. In 1925, sled
dogs proved that they were invaluable during the "Great Race of Mercy
to Nome." In Nome, an outbreak of diphtheria threatened to become a
fatal epidemic. A 20lb package of antitoxin serum needed to be
relayed from Nenana to Nome. Twenty drivers and more than 100 dogs
were recruited for the run. Planes were ruled out due to extreme cold
(40 below and colder) and if the plane crashed, the serum would be
lost. Serum was transported from Anchorage to Nenana by train. The
drive was a success, the serum was delivered and lives were saved.
The drive covered some 674 miles in less than five and a half days.
This, along with the simple commemoration of the uses of the Iditarod
trail, is the origin of the Iditarod sled dog race.

2. Types of sled dogs

Naturally, most northern breeds were used as sled dogs. Alaskan
Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, Eskimo Dogs, Greenlands, Samoyeds,
Norrbottenspets, and Hokkaidokens are all sled dogs. However, lots of
different breeds of dogs have been and are used to drive sleds and
carts.

People use Irish Setters, Dalmations, Golden Retrievers, etc., to
enjoy mushing sports. In fact, most modern day speed and endurance
mushers use mixed breeds (often Siberian crossed with Greyhound). So,
if you do not have a "sled dog," but still want to enjoy the sport, fear
not, for most any type of dog can be used. Mushing is fun, both to
take part in and simply to watch.

3. Mushing terms

Contrary to common belief, the word "mush" is not used to drive sled
dogs. Mush comes from the French word "marche" which is from the
verb "marcher" which means to walk. Undoubtedly, the French used this
during gold rush days. The word "mush" is felt to be too "soft" a
sound to be used as a command. Below is a short list of common
commands and terms associated with dog driving sports.

Hike : Get the dogs moving
Gee : Turn right
Haw : Turn left
Easy : Slow down
Musher : One that drives sled dogs
Mushing : The act of driving sled dogs
Lead dog : Dog that steers the sled dog team and
regulates speed
Wheel dog : Dogs closest to the sled
Sled : Wooden rig the dogs pull in the snow and
on which you stand
Snowless rigs : Also called training carts. Take the place
of the sled when there is no snow.

There are many other terms common to dog driving sports. One book
that has a very good glossary in it is _Dog Driver_, by Miki and Julie
Collins. See the references section for a complete citation.

4. Mushing equipment

The types of mushing equipment alone could cover many pages: only the
main points are covered here. The references listed at the end of
this section provide additional information.

There are two main types of sleds -- basket sleds and toboggan sleds.
Basket sleds (also called stanchion sleds) are popular among sprint
racers and recreational mushers. They are fast on glare ice and hard
pack trails, and are also good in high wind conditions. They are
lightweight, and the basket is set high off the runners, which can
keep gear dry. Toboggan sleds are more durable and stable than the
basket sleds, and they are capable of carrying bigger loads. They are
more rigid and generally less maneuverable than basket sleds. The bed
of the toboggan rides two inches above the snow. These sleds handle
soft snow better than their basket counterparts. Both types of sleds
are equipped with a brake, which is a vital item. The brake is very
simple, consisting of a spring loaded wood plank attached to the sled
bed at one end and a metal hook at the other. When riding the sled,
standing on the runners, one simply pushes down on the brake, driving
the hook into the snow. It is an effective method of slowing and
stopping the sled.

So, which sled? It depends on what you want to do. Basket sleds are
lighter and more suitable for racing. Racing trails are groomed and
hard packed for speed. They can be used for longer trips and camping.
However, to carry more gear and run in softer snow conditions, a
toboggan sled would be better. For the novice and/or once-in-a-while
musher, the basket sled is the best choice. They are generally
cheaper and easier to learn on.

In order to have your dog pull the sled, it must have a proper
harness. There are many, but two main types of harnesses are the
x-back and the freighting, or weight pulling harness. For speed or
recreational mushing, the x-back harness is the harness of choice.
The harness is extremely important as it properly distributes the
weight of the load across the dog's muscular-skeleto system. Of all
the components of mushing, the harness is the most important. The
x-back harness is sometimes referred to as a racing harness, but it is
NOT strictly used for racing. As long as the load is not too heavy,
the x-back is used for a wide variety of dog driving activities. The
harness should should be padded around the front and fit the dog very
well. Unfortunately, a picture is not possible, and without that, it
is a little difficult to visualize. See the references for additional
details.

The weight pulling harness is used to haul heavier loads. Therefore,
one would expect to see freighting harnesses used in conjunction with
toboggan sleds. They are also used in competitive weight pulling.
They are similar to the x-back harness, except that they are
constructed to give the dog different freedom of movement and
different distribution of the load. The freighting harness has one
very important feature that the x-back harness does not. At the rear
of the harness, there is a "spacer", usually a wooden rod that is
about as long as the dog is wide. While pulling heavy loads, the rod
is well away from the back of the dogs rear legs. For recreational
mushers, this wooden rod can be somewhat irritating for the dog as it
will hit the back of the dogs legs when not loaded. Consider what you
are going to do with the dog(s) before purchasing or making a harness.

The line that runs from the sled to the dogs is called a _gang line_.
They are simple to construct yourself once you understand their
function and geometry. The gang line consists of three components.
The first is the _tow line_, which is typically 3/8 inch polyethelene
rope. It connects to the sled and runs up *between* the dogs which
are hitched side by side on either side of the towline. To this, the
_tug lines_ are attached. These lines are typically 1/4 inch poly
rope and are "braided" into the tow line. The tug lines attach to the
harnesses (which are on the dogs!). The final component is the _neck
line_. The neck line is also 1/4 inch poly rope and is braided into
the tow line. The end of the neck line attaches to the dog's collar.
The dog does NOT pull from this under ANY circumstances. The function
of the neck line is to keep the dogs close to the tow line, thereby
maximizing their pull strength. When out on the trail, you always
want to have a spare gang line, as the dogs may break theirs, or a
tangle may become so severe that the line must be cut to free the
dogs!

The next component of mushing equipment is the snow hook. The snow
hook is essentially an "emergency brake" for the sled. When you stop
the sled, and must get off to untangle dogs or rest or something, you
can set the snow hook in the snow and it will hold the dogs (and
therefore the sled) in place. They are remarkably effective. They
are simple: a large, heavy, metal hook, weighing a couple of pounds
and about 12 inches in length. These can be purchased from a variety
of places. It is very important to attach the hook to the rear of the
gangline, not the sled. A strong team of dogs can very easily tear a
sled to pieces if the sled is between the hook and the dogs.

The last pieces of equipment to mention are the sled bag and dog
booties. The sled bag can be used to carry an injured dog or gear.
In an ISDRA sanctioned sled dog race, sled bags are a required piece
of equipment. They can be made or purchased. Dog booties are used to
protect the dogs feet from injury, particularly on long journeys.
They are typically used when mushing on rough ice, when mushing along
roadways where chemicals from de-icing can be present, or when driving
the dogs on a snowless rig on a hard surface. Booties can be made or
purchased.

How about the cost? Well, it varies, of course. The numbers below
are typical.

Sled : $300.00 - 500.00
Harness : $15.00 - 18.00
Ganglines : $10.00
Sled Bags : $25.00
Snow Hook : $10.00
Booties : $1.00 (per paw)

The references section includes the names, addresses, and phone
numbers of some outfitters that sell this type of equipment.

5. Skijoring equipment

Skijoring really only requires six simple components. A skier (you!),
a dog (or dogs!), an x-back harness, a tow line, padded belt, and
cross country skis. You MUST know how to cross country ski VERY well
to do this. The harness has been discussed previously, there is no
need to discuss the skis, and the tow line is just that -- a line that
connects you to the dog(s). This leaves the padded belt. These can
be purchased or made. The idea is that you put the belt on, attach
the tow line to it, attach the dogs to it, and go! Some people prefer
to use a handle to hang on to rather than attach the dogs to them.
The handle can then be dropped if the dogs pull you into trouble!
Others feel that it is best to use a belt and execute a controlled fall
in case of trouble rather than risk having the dogs injure themselves
in a tangle when a handle is dropped.

6. Weight pulling equipment

The name of the game here is truly the harness. As discussed above,
the weight pulling harness is completely different from the x-back
harness, and THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE! The weight pulling harness
has side lines that connect to a spreader bar at the hock, instead of
continuing up to the hips. This is important, because a single dog
weighing 60 lbs may pull 2000 lbs!

7. Other equipment

Many mushers have a wheeled cart for training in the fall prior to
snow fall. In areas with insufficient snow, these carts are used in
competition. These can be purchased or made by a good welder. Carts
are a lot of fun, but are difficult to come by, they can be difficult
to control, and they go *very* fast with enthusiastic dogs.

Some people use pulks in the snow and carts in the summer to work
their dogs. Carts are small "wagons" that are used to haul small
loads or children. Pulks are carts for the snow (they are like small
sleds). They are used to carry equipment. Carts and pulks can be
made or bought.

8. Training the musher

Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the sled issuing
commands to steer the dogs. It is work! If you start doing it in
earnest, you will pull muscles, fall off the sled and have to pull
yourself back on the runners with one hand, run yourself ragged
chasing after the team (because you fell off of the sled), run into
trees, and so on. In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle"
the sled. This too can be tiring since it is repetitive. Peddling is
pushing the sled forward with one foot while riding the sled. This is
helpful to the dogs, particularly when tired. You may also frequently
get off to run alongside when the dogs are tired. Therefore, to
successfully drive sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as
well. Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function of
the type of mushing to be done. The key is endurance and flexibility
over muscle bulk. Running, biking, cross country skiing and downhill
skiing are all good ways to build strength. You must remember that at
all times, you are alpha. If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain,
your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive.
This can be particularly dangerous on longer journeys into the
wilderness.

It should be clear from this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very
well bonded to the driver. Not only does it make training much
easier, but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good sled
dog team. The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed leader, and
you and they work together as a *team*. If you are careful to bond to
each of your dogs as individuals, and socialize them very well with
each other, other dogs, and other humans, your dogs will be willing to
do virtually anything for you.

9. Training dogs to pull

There are many aspects to training dogs to pull. Probably the most
fundamental is *start young*. Get a puppy used to its harness, just
as you would a collar and leash. Also let the puppy get used to
pulling things. Start out with a small 2x4 (6 inches long) and let it
drag the 2x4 around behind its harness for a while. The emphasis is
NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT weight behind
it. It is important to realize that one can injure a puppy's bones,
structure, and spirit by doing too much!

To train adult dogs, or continue the puppy training as an adult, is
relatively simple. Some dogs are natural pullers, others are not.
Some dogs take right to the harness the first time, and other dogs,
even ones from reputable breeders, may take extensive training. You
just never know.

It is vital to get the dog to lean out and keep the line between it
and you taut. Some dogs have a real problem with this, others do not.
For problem dogs, the cause usually is due to the dog not liking you
to be behind it. If you do have trouble, there are a variety of
methods you can use. As long as you make training a fun game, and you
make the dog understand what you want it to do, training will progress
quickly, even for stubborn dogs, like Siberians. Fortunately, they
LIKE to pull, so their stubbornness is not a problem here. Sometimes
getting them to STOP pulling is!

Some mushers feel that it is best to train dogs to pull lots of
weight, then speed comes naturally in a race without the weight.
Others feel that speed and endurance training is best. Still others
feel that a combination works best, similar to the combination
training for the musher. Training for speed and endurance by mushing
shorter distances (under 10 miles, sometimes even 3 or 4 miles) at top
speed and up hills is beneficial. Loping along at 3 or 4 miles an
hour for 15 or 20 miles is also beneficial. Both of these build
strength and endurance. Pulling heavy weight for short distances is
also quite good, particularly for wheel dogs (the ones hitched closest
to the sled). For this, try a plastic tub to which you can add
plastic weights (the ones from barbell sets will have the weights
printed on them).

Whichever method you use, remember to take it easy with your dogs and
not push them to hard, and never, NEVER, lose your temper with your
dogs. Remember that this is supposed to be fun for both you and the
dogs. George Attla, a famous musher once said, "If the dogs make a
mistake while out on the trail remember that it is not the dogs that
have made the mistake. It is you." For additional training
information (with much more detail than is practical to provide here),
see the references.

10. Training lead dogs

To successfully mush, one must have a good lead dog (or dogs). This
dog will take your commands for regulating speed and direction for the
entire team. Naturally, if you are driving only one dog, that will be
your lead dog.

Training lead dogs is too complex to really do it justice here. The
basics are you want the dog to learn to turn right, left, speed up,
and slow down on voice command. You also want the dog to bypass
interesting detours and distractions. In addition to the basic
commands already introduced (see section 3), the dog must also be
taught the commands below:

kissing sound : Speed up (or other appropriate sound)
on-by : Go by a fork in the trail, other dogs, or
other distractions without detour

All commands are spoken in a firm, calm, not too loud voice.

During training, you must be certain to use varied turns and trails to
be sure that the dog is really executing the commands rather than
following a well worn path. You must also anticipate the turn and
issue the command at the correct time from the *dog's* perspective.
Finally, some people get confused when issuing the right/left
commands, particularly in the excitement of a race. Some mushers tape
the commands on the front of their sleds, on the right and left sides.
You may want to do this while beginning on the sled.

To train a dog to execute these commands with regularity is not too
difficult. To train a dog to do this during the excitement of a race
with lots of distractions is more difficult. One possible way to
approach training is to start out on foot when the dog is a puppy.
Keep the lessons varied, quick, and fun. Be certain to do the lessons
in a variety of environments, with and without distractions. When the
dog is old enough to pull weight (about one year to 18 months, get
advice from your veterinarian), you may wish to graduate to cross
country skiis. The dog will learn to execute commands in snowy
conditions, and at higher speeds. Once you have your lead dog well
trained and pulling your sled, you will find that other untrained,
young, dogs can be very easily added to your team as your lead dog
will "correct" the new dog's mistakes, usually faster and better than
you can.

This is one way in which lead dogs can be trained. Consult the
references and experienced mushers (if you can find any) for
additional information.

11. Training for weight pulling

Here emphasis is on strength and pulling straight no matter
how difficult. Most of the mushing books in the references discuss
weight pulling training.

12. Training for skijoring

Skijoring is you on cross country skis and the dogs pulling you. YOU
MUST BE A VERY GOOD CROSS COUNTRY SKIER. This is a must. Before
attaching dogs, cross country ski all over the place, on a wide
variety of terrain. Learn to fall in a controlled way. You will
eventually need to do this when skijoring. You will need to learn to
turn quickly and ski in control at high speeds. Skiing downhill in
cross country skis is a good way to simulate skijoring speeds.

The dog(s) must be well trained as well. Train all of them as lead
dogs. They need to know and obey all of the commands very well
(especially whoa!). The references all include information about this
fast growing sport.

13. Health, diet, and care -- Sled Dog Specifics (briefly)

Sled dogs are athletes. They are also remarkably healthy. It is
important to realize that because sled dogs are athletes, they require
special attention in at least two specific areas.

Probably one of the most important aspects for caring for sled dogs is
the foot. You should inspect your dog's feet regularly. The skin of
the pad should feel tough, but pliable, be resistant to abrasions and
lacerations, and be free from cracks, dryness, or scarring. Also
inspect the nails of the foot carefully. Nails can help the dog grip
ice, but if too long, they can cause serious foot injury. According
to Miki Collins in _Dog Driver_, if the nails are long enough to force
the toes upward when the dog is standing on a hard, level surface,
clip them. Nails that are too long can get caught and ripped out on
the trail, or they can cause toes to break. Both of these injuries
can be quite serious, and they are certainly painful.

The subject of diet should also be touched on here. Most mushers feed
a high stress, high energy diet during mushing season, and switch to a
"maintenance" diet during the "off" season. For example, one
experienced musher mixes Science Diet Performance dry with canned
during mushing season. This is a high fat, high protein food. Some
mushers even mix food in with lots of water hours before a race to
encourage drinking. Dogs must be very well hydrated. During the off
season, the musher in this example feeds Science Diet Maintenance
canned mixed with either Science Diet Maintenance dry or Eukanuba dry.
During the mushing season, the dogs are using all components of the
food that is fed. During the off season, there is no need for such
high energy food, and in fact, high protein foods can cause kidney
trouble later in life when not fed in moderation.

14. Final remarks

Hopefully, this brief summary has been helpful to you. Even if you do
not want to get involved in mushing yourself, try and find mushing
events in your area. It is wonderful to see the handsome dogs
enjoying doing what they were bred for.

15. References

15.1. Recommended books for mushing, weight pulling, and skijoring:

Levorsen, Bella, ed. _Mush! A Beginner's Manual of Sled Dog
Training_. Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers, Inc. Arner Publications, 1976.
ISBN 0-914124-06-4.

Collins, Miki and Julie. _Dog Driver. A Guide for the Serious
Musher_. Alpine Publications, 1991. ISBN 0-931866-48-0.

Flanders, Noel K. _The Joy of Running Sled Dogs_. Alpine Publications,
1989. ISBN 0-931866-39-1.

Fishback, Lee and Mel. _Novice Sled Dog Training_. 13th printing,
Raymond Thomson Company, 1989.

15.3. Recommended breed books:

Demidoff, Lorna B. and Michael Jennings. _The Complete Siberian
Husky_. Howell Book House, 1978. ISBN 0-87605-314-2.

Riddle, Maxwell and Beth J. Harris. _The New Complete Alaskan
Malamute_. Howell Book House, 1990. ISBN 0-87605-008-9.

15.4. Recommended racing and history:

Sherwonit, Bill. _Iditarod, The Great Race to Nome_. Alaska
Northwest Books, 1991. ISBN 0-88240-411-3.

Steger, Will and Jon Bowermaster. _Crossing Antarctica_. Alfred A.
Knopf, Inc., 1991. ISBN 0-394-58714-6.

15.6. Periodicals about sled dogs and mushing

The Siberian Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO 80033-3299

The Malamute Quarterly
4401 Zephyr Street
Wheat Ridge, CO 80033-3299

Mushing.
The All Season International Magazine for Dog-Driving Sports
P.O. Box 149
Ester, AK 99725

15.7. Recommended places to order equipment:

Black Ice, Konari Outfitters, Tun-Dra Outfitters and Ikon Outfitters:
all addresses are in Catalogue section of the Annotated References FAQ.

D. Narcotics and Evidence Dogs.

This is commonly considered a subset of SAR. Dogs can be trained to
alert (by barking, pointing, or pawing) on controlled substances such
as drugs, agricultural products (e.g., in customs or at borders), and
nearly anything else (for example, gunpowder (to detect guns), bomb
materials, arson materials). Narcotic dogs are trained to search
through buildings, cars, and luggage for their scent. They can be
trained to alert on more than one kind of drug, and can do so despite
ingenious efforts on the smuggler's part: dogs have been known to
locate drugs concealed in gasoline, rotting food, skunk oil, and many
other efforts. They can be trained to discriminate between large and
small amounts: in fact some dogs are trained to whiff passing
vehicles; if it alerts on one, that vehicle can be stopped later and
searched without directly involving the dog and its handler.

Evidence dogs are trained to search for items bearing human scent,
sometimes specific human scent. They are utilized in crime scenes to
find evidence thrown away by a suspect. Such evidence can be later
used (if handled properly) by a Bloodhound to link the scent on it to
a suspect: several such cases have been deemed admissible evidence in
court.

Dogs that are trained to alert on contraband items are almost always
owned by law enforcement personnel, as these individuals can most
easily legally obtain small quantities of contraband to train their
dog with. In other words, average citizens do not train narcotic dogs
because of legal difficulties. The dog's training record must record
legal acquisition of contraband material used in training: if no such
record exists, or the dog does not have a training record, then its
evidence will not be accepted in court. (In other words, don't try
this at home. Similar problems exist for the cadaver dog: dead human
parts must be legally obtained.)

E. Police Dogs.

This is a very general term. Technically, any dog working for a
police or sheriff department is a "police dog," this includes
narcotic, evidence, tracking, trailing, and attack dogs. SAR and
narcotic and evidence search have already been covered. The popular
notion of the term "police dog" refers to "attack" dogs kept by law
enforcement departments. Dogs can do more than one job; there is no
reason that a dog couldn't trail/track people, sniff out narcotics,
and locate arson material. But attack dogs are usually used only for
chasing suspects and bringing them down. Schutzhund training shows
that attack training does not exclude other abilities, but for
whatever reasons, this is not often done (Schutzhund training itself
is difficult; the Schutzhund section describes the difficulty of
finding suitable candidates for the training). There are often
liability concerns; an "attack" dog will be viewed unfavorably by most
judges and juries if it attacked someone, even justifiably, while
doing something else.

There are no national or even state-wide standards for these dogs.
Many are Schutzhund trained. Some are well trained, others are not.
German Shepherd Dogs are commonly used, but any large breed with
energy and drive can be used: Bouvier des Flandres, Dobermann
Pinschers, Malinois, Rottweilers and others have also been used as
police dogs.

The use of police dogs, in an organized fashion, began in the US in
1907 with South Orange, New Jersey, and New York Police Departments.
These were followed by departments in Glen Ridge, NJ (1910), Detroit
(1917), Berkeley, CA (1930), Pennsylvania State Police (1931), Royal
Canadian Mounted Police K-9 Section (1937), and the Connecticut State
Police (1944). Many other departments have since created programs of
their own to utilize dogs. This is the reason for the lack of uniform
standards across the country, as each department makes its own.

For a detailed reference, including history, try:

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_. Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

For information on training dogs for different types of police work
(but not attack or protection), see:

Tolhurst, Bill. _The Police Textbook for Dog Handlers_. Sharp
Printing, 3477 Lockport Road, Sanborn, NY 14132. 1991. (Paperback,
89 pages.)
This book is only available from the author. $14 plus $2 shipping
and handling. Write to Bill Tolhurst, 383 Willow Street, Lockport,
NY 14094. The most comprehensive training book available. Contains
information not available from any other source. Contains updated
information covered by the original National Police Bloodhound
Training Manual (1977). Plus: how to train a land-cadaver dog, a
water-cadaver dog, an article-search dog, an accelerant (arson) dog.
Information on the Scent Transfer Machine, about radio-controlled
dogs, on crime scene dog development, on the use of a scent sleeve.
Discusses seminars, Bloodhound misconceptions, testifying in court,
commands, puppy profiles (how to select a puppy) and more.

F. Water Rescue Dogs.

[would love more history and references]

There are some dogs trained for water rescue. Some dogs are trained
to deliver flotation devices to the person, others actually drag the
person out of the water. The latter is most often done by
Newfoundlands, as they have the swimming ability and size to perform
such feats.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/training
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



TRAINING YOUR DOG.

Prologue.
A. Questions About Training.
H. Comments on Obedience Training.
I. Attention.
J. Corrections.
K. Using Food.
L. Training and Corrective Collars.
M. Learning to Sit.
N. Down, Stay, Off.
O. Heeling.
P. Learning Recall.
Q. Beyond Basic Obedience.
R. Gaming Dogs.

Prologue.

First, you should understand that there are two components to
"training". There is the kind of training that solves *behavioral*
problems. There is also the kind of training that creates a
command-response pattern. It is perfectly possible to have a dog that
heels, sits, and stays perfectly and digs out all your marigolds.
Conversely, you may have a dog that does not destroy things in your
house but does not sit or heel. "Obedience training" does not
necessarily cover both of these aspects of training. In fact, they
usually just teach a command-response pattern and that's it. You need
to be aware of whether your dog needs behavior modification (where you
will have to find out the underlying reason why your dog digs and not
just put chicken wire over everything) or obedience training to
understand commands. Certainly, the two may be related: a dog that
digs because it is bored may become less bored with obedience training
and stop digging. It is important, however, to understand that the
dog stopped digging because it was no longer bored than because it now
knows how to heel. You will need to modify your approach, or select a
trainer to help you, with behavior vs. training in mind.

That said, good books on how to train your dog include:

Baer, Ted. _Communicating with Your Dog_. Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
Heavily illustrated with color photos. A sensible approach to
laying a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if
you don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here).
Simple instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis
on understanding and building on previous work.

Bauman, Diane L. _Beyond Basic Dog Training_. New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.

Benjamin, Carol Lea. _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.
She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.
Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on
establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._. Ballantine Books. 1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress
that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
more formal training goes much easier.

Burnham, Patricia Gail. _Playtraining Your Dog_. St. Martin's Press,
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. c1980. ISBN 0-312-61691-0
(trade paperback).
An excellent book that describes how to use play to motivate your
dog through obedience training. She focuses on how to teach each
exercise in the AKC Novice, Open, and Utility classes. Her
philosophy, though, lends itself to any type of training. Well
written and informative. For you greyhound lovers, all her dogs and
inside photos are of greyhounds.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),
New York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
_Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

Tucker, Michael. _Dog Training Step by Step_.
Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
follow. His others are _Dog Training Made Easy_, _Solving Your Dog
Problems_.

A. Questions about Training.

1. "I trained my dog to do all these things and now he won't do them!"

This is typical. Think of adolescent rebellion in teenagers. First
your dog learned and obeyed your commands because you were
unquestionably the leader. Then, while your dog understood what the
command was, it was older and decided to test you. This is where
corrections become crucial. If you pass this struggle (and it varies
with the individual dog), you will generally get past this hump,
although each individual command may go through a mini-sequence like
this.

2. "How long will it take me to finish training my dog?"

You should not think of training as consisting of some fixed set of
exercises after which the dog will always be "trained." Training is
ongoing. Dogs being what they are, they will take advantages of
lapses in training behavior. If you train your dog to stay off the
couch and then subsequently forget or stop correcting it for getting
on the couch, the behavior will not go away. You must continually
work with your dog on what it knows to reinforce it and keep the good
behavior. Thinking of training as a lifelong process does more to
ensure a well-trained dog & a happy owner than anything else.

B. Comments on Obedience Training.

There are a number of different training methods available. None of
these methods are perfect and none are guaranteed to work on your dog
(regardless of what it says on the cover). Each dog is different and
the interaction with its owner is unique. Some methods work better
than others for *you* and *your dog*. It will depend on your personal
preference (dogs are good at telling when you are hesitant or unhappy
with a particular technique) and your dog's temperament and ability.

People frequently disagree over which methods are "good" and even
which are "best." This kind of argument is fairly pointless, as the
effectiveness of each training method is subjective. Find one that
works for *you* and don't worry about criticisms. On the other hand,
suggestions to help overcome specific training problems may be what
you need and you shouldn't reject it out of hand because it's not in
the method you chose.

A good expert shouldn't reject any other methods out of hand; the
Monks in their books point out that readers should consult other books
as well. Being an expert doesn't mean being able to only use or do
one method. The more methods you look at and try, the better data
base you have to draw from. There are many methods for training dogs
out there.

What is best for your dog? This really depends on the temperament and
intelligence of your dog, and your own ability. There is no one
method that works for all dogs since breed and temperment play a
large part in your dogs reaction to any particular method.

Good results in obedience training require large doses of consistency,
good timing, and patience. You must be consistent: use the same word
for a particular command every time (e.g., don't use "Come" sometimes
and "Come here" other times). You must develop a fine sense of timing
when introducing new commands and later correcting behavior on learned
commands. Patience is needed: losing your temper is
counterproductive. Get the whole family to agree on the commands, but
have only one person train the dog to minimize confusion for the dog.

Establish a daily training period, preferably just before dinner. It
can be as short as twenty minutes, or longer. Establishing a routine
helps.

Don't expect overnight success. It can take up to two years of
consistent work, depending on the dog, for a properly trained dog.
(This is where the patience comes in!)

You must praise often and unambiguously. A smile won't do it. Give
abundant verbal praise, scratch your dog on the head, etc.

Try making the command word part of a praise phrase. In this case,
whenever your dog is in the desired heel position, you could say
something like "Good heel!" in a praising tone of voice. Note that
you only give the command *once* but that the command word is repeated
in the praise phrase for reinforcement. That seems to satisfy the
objective of the proponents of repeating the command (i.e. letting the
dog hear the command often) without actually repeating it as a
command. Further, because it is being said when the dog is doing it
right rather than during a correction the dog doesn't create any
negative association with the command as the latter is likely to
cause.

If you have a puppy -- don't wait! Enroll in a kindergarten puppy
class once its up on its shots. Don't wait until the pup is 6 months
old to start anything.

Training before "six months of age" is fine if you see the puppy
having fun with these lessons. Just remember to keep the lessons
short, don't loose patience when your puppy suddenly forgets
everything it ever knew, and give it plenty of time just to be a
puppy. In the long term, the time you spend with your puppy
exploring, playing together and meeting new people is probably more
important important than your short "training" sessions, but both
activities are very helpful.

Remember:

* Make it fun *for the pup*.
* Expect setbacks. Just because the pup understood what you meant
yesterday, doesn't mean he'll remember it today. This means
*lots* of repetition. Teach the basic commands: sit, stay, and
come for now.

You may find it well worth your while, especially if you are new to
training dogs, to attend obedience classes. Most places have local
training schools. Be sure to check up on these places. Call the
Better Business Bureau and your local SPCA for any specific complaints
registered with them. Especially check carefully places where you
ship your dog out to be trained: many of these places are suspect,
because YOU must also be trained to handle your dog. Beware of
advertising that claim LIFETIME warranties on the training, GUARANTEED
solutions, etc. It is best for you and your dog to go through
obedience training together, so that you both learn from each other.

No matter what kind of class you're looking for: from basic puppy
kindergarten for your little puppy to basic obedience for an older dog
to more advanced training for a dog that's already done some work,
you'll want to pick the class out carefully.

First and foremost, pick out a class where you are comfortable with
the methods and the trainer. If you don't start off with this
footing, learning anything positive from the class simply won't
happen.

Next look at the size of the class and how much time the trainer
spends with each person. Ideally, the smaller the class the better,
although for puppy classes you want at least four or five dogs since
socialization is an important part of the class. Does the trainer
allocate time outside of class for questions (either an extra several
minutes before or after class or giving you her phone number for
class)? What sort of guarantees do they offer? If they say your
pooch will be trained in six weeks permanently, no questions asked,
run do not walk away from this outfit. If, however, they offer
followup help after the class is over or offer a few extra classes for
specific problems after or during the class, this is a good outfit.

Check out what their policy is with aggressive dogs in class. It does
happen that one of the dogs attending the class frightens and
intimidates the other dogs. There should be a clause for dismissing
such a dog (or better yet, going into private training with it), or
having it muzzled and otherwise restrained to minimize disruption to
the class.

H. Attention

An important aspect of obedience training is getting your dog's
attention. Your dog will not perform as readily if it isn't paying
attention to you. There are a number of things you can do to get its
attention, and you should be sure to praise it for paying attention.

The Monks of New Skete stress this a lot in their book (with the
addition that in turn, you've got to pay attention to what your dog is
communicating to you during training). If there's one piece of
definitive advice about dog training this must be it.

1. Umbilical cords

Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie it to your belt. Now,
go about the house on your ordinary business. Do not pay attention to
the dog. It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine
when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going.
This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a
good foundation for learning to heel later. Start with short periods
of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more
familiar with this exercise.

2. Watching

If you look up and catch your dog watching you (this is different from
the staring contests mentioned above because the dog is not "staring"
at you when it is watching you move around), praise it.

3. Food in your mouth, spitting it at your dog

An excellent exercise for teaching attention. It gets the dog to
concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket. Do this
as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that it must watch
your face. Also, DON'T let them pick up the food from the floor or
ground. If you do, they will learn that they don't have to catch the
treat. They can just wait and pick it up. And don't let them come
back later to clean up.

Do not, however, use food in general when obedience training. See
Using Food below.

4. Talking softly

Talk softly to your dog. It will have to pay more attention to you.
This is especially effective when younger, and is a good habit to get
into.

I. Corrections.

You should never correct when you yourself are upset, angry or
downright mad, especially at your dog. Good correction depends on
timing, a keen awareness of what the dog is thinking, and quick
switching between correction and praise, all of which are difficult
when you are upset. Stop the exercise until you regain your
equilibrium. You will have much difficulty training your dog if you
continually get mad while doing it. In fact, if you always or often
get mad when training your dog, someone else should train it. You
will get absolutely nowhere yelling at your dog.

1. Young puppies

The dictum "don't train before 6 months of age" doesn't make any sense
unless you're talking about the *correction* involved in formal
obedience training. If you think about it, you train your dog all the
time whether you realize it or not. Dogs are great at picking up your
body language and tone of voice. Even if you're not trying to train
them, they're "training" themselves using the clues we give them (and
many "problems" are classic cases of the dogs misunderstanding their
owner's signals).

If possible with a young puppy it is best to use the "correction" of
distraction. When you deny the puppy something, try to replace it
with a positive activity rather than just being negative and oppressive
all the time. Otherwise, limit your corrections to a verbal "no."

2. Older dogs

There comes a time in training any dog that it must do what you ask
just because you asked the dog to do it. You have been helping your
dog with this particular task for a while and you see the look in its
eye that says, "Yes, I know what you want, but I don't want to do that
right now." This is very different than the look that says, "Huh???"
You do have to know the dog you are training and be able to tell the
difference between these looks. That is just part of being a trainer,
and no one can really teach you this skill, but you do have to learn
it.

Always praise the dog immediately when it listens to your corrections.
Again, this gives the "jekyll and hyde" feel to dealing with your dog.
But it is very important to immediately praise your dog for listening
to you. This helps build confidence and keeps the dogs from having
that "hang-dog" look when performing.

3. Proofing

Proofing is a method where you make sure your dog understands a
command, *after* you have taught the dog the command. It isn't fair
to proof a dog on a command when it is still learning what it means.

For example, you teach your dog to stay. After making it stay in a
relatively distraction-free environment, you step up the pressure.
You throw balls up in the air and catch them, squeak toys, have
someone stand near your dog and talk softly to it. If your dog gets
up, gently put it back. If after doing this for a while, the dog
still gets up, then you start putting him back less gently, i.e.
taking your dog roughly by the collar and putting it back, escalating
to picking your dog up by the collar so that its front legs come off
the ground and VERY slowly putting it back in its place, escalating to
picking the dog up by its skin so that its front legs come off the
ground and VERY slowly putting it back. Some dogs get the idea more
quickly than others; stop your correction when it stays down.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by throwing
balls all around him, bouncing them on the ground, etc. Also, someone
else should try to offer him food, make strange noises such as
clapping , barking like a dog, meowing like a cat, using toys or
things that make strange noises.

When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by putting it on
a stay and having someone shout in a loud voice "ROVER, COME!" (do not
use your dog's name), "OK", "DOWN" (if doing a sit stay). If at home,
put him on a stay and go and ring the doorbell. It should take
several months (6-8) to work through all of these distractions and
care must be taken to not blow the dog's mind by putting him in a
situation that he is not ready for or by never letting the dog "win"
(i.e., successfully perform an exercise).

Always let the dog "win" on the last exercise in the session. That
is, end the sessions on positive notes, with much praise. This keeps
your dog interested in the work.

K. Using Food.

According to the last chapter of Diane Bauman's book _Beyond Basic Dog
Training_ there is more to dog training and to trainer-dog
relationships than just the dog performing for food and toys. The dog
should have a relationship with you and work to please you and work
for your praise. That should be the important thing in your training,
the relationship.

Remember, the goal in obedience is consistency. If you have a
hard-charging dog when you train with treats and toys, but have a
slow, depressed dog when you take the treats away, getting any kind of
consistent performance out of the dog will be VERY difficult. Sure,
with a slow dog you may loose a few points for lack of "Utmost
willingness" but if the dog does every sit correctly, every front
correctly and works confidently, you will still do well in the show
ring.

Further, there are many cases of dogs trained using these techniques
that are "ring-wise." They know they will not be corrected nor will
they be rewarded "properly" for their performance, so why should they
work?

L. Training and Corrective Collars.

There are several kinds of collars. There are the plain flat buckled
ones for everyday use available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and
fastners (from buckles to quick-release).

Note that puppies do not need corrective collars.

For training purposes, there are choke collars (also called training
collars), pinch collars and prong collars. Used properly, there is
nothing wrong with any of these collars, although they often look
rather alarming. The point is that these collars are for control, not
for pain infliction. Yanking savagely on these collars is
counterproductive; firm corrections get the point across without
injury. Try this experiment: wrap each of the collars around your arm
in turn and have someone experienced with corrections give a
correction to your arm.

To prevent your dog from injury from corrective collars, do not leave
them on when you are not around. Its usual collar should be a plain
flat bucked collar; save the choke and prong collars for actual
training and when you are around.

M. Learning to Sit.

Command, "Sit!". Pull straight up on your leash (do not jerk),
simultaneously push (do not hit) down on the dog's rump. After the
dog knows the exercise, a tap on the rump is appropriate if the dog
refuses to sit.

Another way is to have the dog focus on your hand. Say "sit," move
your hand over its head so that it must sit to keep it focused.
Praise it when it is sitting.

N. Down, Stay, Off.

One caveat is to be sure that you are consistent with "down" and
"off." Do not use them interchangeably, you will only confuse your
dog. "Down" should be the classic "lie down on the floor" command,
"off" needs to be "get all your paws on the ground (and off me or off
the chair) NOW!"

Traditionally, you start by putting the dog in a sit position. Then,
using your hand, or a toy, guide its nose down until it's in a down
position. Once it understands "down" try to eliminate the sit-down
sequence, or else your dog will start to "down" when you say "sit"!

O. Heeling

To make the process of learning to heel easier, start when your dog is
a puppy. Don't expect it to heel, but discourage from the beginning
any forging (lunging) or lagging on the leash. Keep the puppy focused
on you when on leash. This may mean constantly talking to your pup to
keep its attention. Pretty soon, you'll have a pup that stays pretty
close to you on leash and doesn't pull in any direction. The umbilical
cord approach suggested for attention can be a good way to start and
maintain this. Don't worry about "perfect heeling" for several months
yet; it is too much to ask of a puppy right away.

When you and your dog are ready to learn heeling, there are several
approaches to take.

* Try binding, where you have only a few inches of slack on your
leash. Hold the lead like a baseball bat handle, with your hands
almost on his collar. "Plaster" you arms against your body. When
you start off (with your left leg) tell him heel and hold him
right there at your side. If he pulls ahead, add pressure in the
lead backwards and say "get back". Once he stops pulling tell him
"good boy". Stop and do about four straight lines first (no turns
yet). Just counter any way he pulls with either "get back",
"get-up" "get-in" or "get out". When he is in the right spot,
tell him he's good. Just do a few short heels first and increase
length. As he learns where heel is, he should stop pulling then
you can let more leash out and do the same thing. If he starts
pulling again, go right back down to just a few inches.

* Put your dog on a 6 foot leash with either a choke collar (not
prong) or flat collar. Hold the loop of the leash in your right
hand and keep your hand against your waist. Loop the slack over
the thumb of that hand. Walk around the back yard and when your
dog walks past you and is not paying attention, turn 180 degrees,
drop the slack from the leash and RUN! Your Dog will get turned
around and will have to follow. As soon as the leash is slack
STOP moving. Say "good <name>," pick up the slack and walk around
the yard again. Whenever your dog goes ahead of you and it can't
see you, drop slack, turn and RUN again. Don't jerk the leash
like a correction. You want a constant pull and if you keep your
hand against your waist a jerk on the leash won't happen.

* Practice your foot work. Make sure you are clear with your
about-turns, left-turns and right turns. Bauman illustrates the
way to turn with photographs in her book. Being clear with your
turns helps clue your dog into when you are going to turn.

* Along with foot work is timing - count out loud "1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2"
and keep each pace the same length. When going slow it's "1 and 2
and 1 and 2" same length paces but at 1/2 time. Fast is "121212"
again but twice as fast and with the same length paces.

* Simple direction changes help as well: do an "about-face" turn
whenever the heel starts disintegrating. That way, your dog has
to stay closer to you to watch where you're going.

P. Learning Recall.

First of all, the golden rule of recall:

*******************************************
NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG WHEN IT COMES TO YOU!
*******************************************

It will not want to come to you if it associates that with punishment.
*Always* praise a dog for coming to you. Remember its associative
powers are limited, and it will only understand that it was punished
for coming to you, regardless of what it just did before that.

1. Starting young

Understand that teaching a 1 year old dog the recall is not the ideal
situation. Your dog should be taught the recall by 4 months or so,
and when the dog is younger, it is much easier. By the time the dog
is a year old, and starting to exert its dominance, the recall should
be a well-established habit and a few relatively minor corrections
should re-establish that habit in case there are minor lapses.

2. On leash

Make a fun game of it, get your dog to understand what that command
is. With a puppy, call its name and "COME". Get down and open your
arms wide as your pup comes in to "funnel" it toward you. Make a big
fuss over it.

Sit your dog down, on a lead, and make it stay. Walk to the end of
the lead and say "<name>, COME" and give it just a little pop and run
AWAY from your dog. As your dog gets to you, make it sit in front of
you. PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!! Work on this way until your dog starts
coming before you can give the little pop. Then get a long lead (15
feet or so) and do the same thing. Then progress to letting it drag
the 15 foot lead around. Call your dog as you are working in the
yard, or doing other things. Always praise.

Make your dog sit every time it comes to you. This avoids the later
common problem of the dog running past you when you call it.

Only call your dog once. If the dog disobeys, don't call again,
just correct the dog.

Q. Beyond Basic Obedience.

It is, of course, beyond the scope of this article to discuss any more
advanced obedience exercises in any kind of detail. However, there
are many resources if you are interested in further obedience
training.

1. Classes

There are a number of classes, public and private, offered for more
extensive obedience training. Especially if you get to know an
experienced handler/trainer well, you can learn a lot from that
person.

2. Books

There are a several books available that devote a good deal of
discussion to training dogs, above and beyond what most dog books do.
These are:

Bauman, Diane L. _Beyond Basic Dog Training_. New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),
New York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
_Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

3. Magazines

Front and Finish
P.O. Box 333
Galesburg, IL 61402-0333
1-309-344-1333
Obedience related information.

4. Mailing list

There is an electronic mailing list devoted to dog obedience issues.
This is not for the novice, but for the person starting on advanced
obedience training, as well as those experienced with these
techniques. It is a good forum for discussing particular problems
that may come up in the course of training your dog. The list's
volume is moderate, with occasional peaks and valleys, depending on
how "hot" the current topic is. For more information, send email to
the list maintainer at obe...@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu.

G. Gaming Dogs.

1. Frisbee

There are serious competition trials for dogs playing frisbee.

One is the Ashley Whippet Invitational (AWI) (Come 'N Get It Canine
Frisbee disc Championships) which is an annual Frisbee Disc
competition. It consists of a series of Community Contests then
Regional Finals and then the World Finals.

The contests are open to any purebred or mixed breed dog, male or
female. Registration is at the contest site.

At Community Finals, each dog competes in the Mini-Distance event.
Basically how many times can the dog catch a frisbee in a set time.
Points are awarded for # of legs off the ground and distance, only 1
frisbee is used (must use frisbee provided by the organizers). You
are given 90 secs and minimal distance for points is 20 yards.

At Regional Finals, Freestyle is performed in the elimination round
with the top dogs moving onto mini-distance and more freestyle.

The world finals consists of 2 rounds of freestyle and one round
of min-distance.

For a current schedule send a stamped self-addressed business size
envelope to:
Peter Bloeme, Deputy Director
Come 'N Get It Canine Frisbee Disc Championships
4060-D Peachtree Rd, Suite 326
Atlanta, GA 30319

For a free training manual send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to
Gaines Cycle AWI Booklet
P.O. Box 877
Young America, MN 55399
(this will also put you on the mailing list for competition schedules.)

2. Flyball

Thanks to Ian J. Hogg.

Flyball is a team sport for dogs. It is a relay race with 4 dogs on a
team. The dogs jump over 4 hurdles spaced 10 ft apart and then
step/jump/throw themselves into a spring loaded box that shoots out a
tennis ball. The dog catches the tennis ball and then runs back over
the 4 hurdles. When the dog crosses the starting line the next dog
goes. The first team to have all 4 dogs run without errors wins the
heat. There are three heats per race. The winner of each heat
receives 2 points towards their standing in the tournament. The dogs
earn points towards flyball titles based on the teams time:

less than 32 secs: Each dog receives 1 point
less than 28 secs: Each dog receives 5 points
less than 24 secs: Each dog receives 25 points.

The titles the dogs can earn are
FD Flyball Dog 20 (25?) points
FDX Flyball Dog Excellent 100 points
FDCH Flyball Dog Champion 500 points

The really good times run about 19 seconds. The hurdles' height are
dependent on the height of the dogs in the team -- 5" below the
shoulder height of the shortest dog. 10" is the minimum height and
16" is the maximum height.

Anyone with a dog that loves balls can give it a try. Check to see if
obedience schools in your area have teams.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/AKC-titles
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB.

A. Showing.
B. Junior Showmanship.
C. Conformation.
D. Obedience.
E. Field and Hunting.
F. Tracking.
G. Herding.
H. Championships.
I. Other AKC Titles.
J. AKC Breed Clubs.
K. Entering the World of Showing and Breeding.

A. Showing.

When people think of "showing," they are usually thinking of
conformation showing. However, "showing" actually comprises showing
your dog under any of three categories: conformation (meeting physical
standards), field (meeting working standards), or obedience (meeting
obedience standards). All AKC-recognized breeds are eligible to show
under conformation and obedience. Field trials are reserved for those
breeds bred for such work, and are tailored to the type of work bred
for: e.g., hunting, retrieving, pointing, and tracking. There are
herding trials (on a variety of stock) for herding breeds.

To start showing requires an investment of time, money, and contacts.
But it is a richly rewarding area, and there are hundreds of thousands
of people throughout the world who enjoy competing with their dogs
under Kennel Club auspices. This article details AKC titles, although
many others exist, and may eventually be detailed in their own
FAQ.

For showing in the AKC, the only pre-requirement is that the dog be
registered with the AKC (either litter registration or individual
registration), and be at least 6 months old the day of the trial.
Shots should be current for your own dog's health. If the showing is
in conformation, the dog must also be sexually intact.

If your dog is or appears to be (AKC-recognized) purebred but is
unregistered, you can get an ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) number
to do anything but conformation work. The procedure for getting an ILP
is as follows:
* Write to the AKC for a form.
* Fill out the form -- it asks what the history of the dog is, where
you got it, why you think it is pure-bred. Eg, a breeder's
opinion that the dog is purebred, it was rescued through a breed
rescue club, etc.
* Take two pictures of your dog -- one side shot standing, one front
shot standing.
* Have you dog neutered. This is required for all dogs that are
applying for ILPs. Include the veterinarian's certificate of
neutering in with the application.
* Mail the form, pictures, and certificated of neutering along with
your check.

If your dog isn't purebred or is a breed not recognized by AKC, you
can still get titles through breed-specific, rare-breed, or
mixed-breed clubs like Mutt's of America or Mix-breeds of America
(there are others). These clubs hold their own obedience trials
(usually modeled after the AKC obedience trials). For example, AMBOR
(American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry), at 205 First Street SW, New
Prague, MN 56071, offers obedience and other titles to mixed breed and
rare breed dogs. They do not have their own special matches. You can
compete at any fun matches (where no corrections are allowed) or rare
breed shows.

1. Naming and registration

A dog's registered name must meet the following criteria
(from "AKC Policies And Guidelines for Registration Matters")

* Name length is limited to 25 characters, not including spaces,
apostrophes and hyphens.
* Letters in the name are restricted to the standard English
alphabet; apostrophes, hyphens, and spaces are the only
punctuation that appear in a dog's name. The certificate
will be printed in all upper case.
* Lifetime kennel names and registered name prefixes cannot
be used without the consent of the owner of the name.
* No arabic numbers, no Roman numerals at the end of the name.
* A limit of 37 dogs in one breed may have the same name.
* AKC reserves the right to append Roman numerals to the end of a
name for identification purposes.
* Spelled out cardinal and ordinal numbers may be used (e.g.,
First, One, Two, Third, etc).
* The name may not contain "Champion," "Champ," "Sieger," or
any other show term/AKC title, spelled or abbreviated.
* Obscenities or derogatory words may not be used.
* "Kennel," "dog," "male," "sire," "stud," "bitch," "dam," and
"female" may not appear in the name.
* The name may not consist of the breed name alone.
* Names of living or recently dead persons may not be used.
* An imported dog must be registered under the same name that
it was registered in its country of birth.

All names are subject to AKC approval. Names may not be changed
(even if AKC mixes up the name -- there are dogs out there with
typos in their names that they cannot correct).

B. Junior Showmanship.

Junior showmanship is for children under 18 and over [10?] years of
age. They need a junior handler number before starting. Write to the
AKC for the number. How the child handles the dog is judged, not the
dog itself. It helps if the kid has a dog that knows what they're
doing in the conformation ring, but any AKC-registered dog over 6
months can be used, including spayed/neutered and ILP dogs. Match
classes that teach kids how to handle are available.

Junior showmanship is broken up into groups. Junior is for kids at
least 10 and under 14, senior for kids at least 14 and under 18.
Furthermore, there are novice groups, which are for children who have
not won three first in novice, and open is for those who have.

C. Conformation.

When showing a dog, either you or a professional hander must "show"
the dog in the ring. Whether or not you choose to use a handler can
depend on the breed of dog you are showing: it can be hard to break
into popular breeds and a handler can help gain recognition; with a
rare or less popular breed, the choice of handler is not as crucial.
If you co-own a dog with the breeder, they may handle your dog for
you. If you handle your own dogs, then like any "sport," as an
amateur, you need to be trained, prepared, and ready to compete with
the pros. Take the time to learn the ropes, how to present your dogs,
and how to groom. Ideally, you should find a mentor to help you learn
what you need to know.

If you use a handler, you should always go with the handler however,
just to make sure they are treating your dog right. Also, a lot of
rule breaking occurs in the conformation ring. Mostly foreign
materials (hair-spray, mousse, dyes) in the dogs' coats. This is not
allowed by AKC rules, but many handlers and owners do it.

A Champion must obtain 15 points. Of those 15 points, two majors (a
show where 3, 4, or 5 points are won) must be obtained under two
different judges. The remaining points can come from 1 or 2 (or
more!) point shows; at least one of these must be from a third judge.
A dog must win at least the Winners Dog (WD) or Winners Bitch (WB) to
win points. Therefore, even if your dog wins a class, it doesn't
necessarily get points. It's only the WD or WB within a breed in
competition that is awarded points. You don't get anything for second
place, but a ribbon, some recognition as an upcoming hopeful, and some
experience.

Reserve Winners (one for WD and one for WB) *may* get points if the
winner of their sex is later disqualified. This can happen if the dog
is improperly entered (into the wrong class, for example). So reserve
wins can be important. The Reserve will only replace the Winner's
position, if the disqualified Winner went on to win higher places,
those are not awarded to the Reserve (but they are still removed from
the disqualified dog). Reserve to a Winner is chosen from the dogs
remaining from that Winners competition, plus the dog that received
second place in the class the Winners Dog or Bitch came from.

Specials are dogs with their CH; they do not normally compete in the
classes, although they may. Entering a special into one of the
classes is known as "padding" (to bring the number of dogs up enough
for major points) and is not normally done. Specials usually compete
directly for BOB/BOS along with the WD and WB in the Best of Breed
competition that is held after WD/WB is selected from the classes.
While they are not awarded points if they win, many breed clubs award
national ratings to dogs based on the total number of dogs of the same
breed that the dog has won over for a calendar year. Each club
calculates the ratings slightly differently although there are some
standard formulas.

Best of Winners picks up the greater of the points that WD/WB has.
This means that it's possible for a WD that got a 1 point minor
to pick up the 3 point major that the WB got if he is awarded
BOW over the WB (the WB retains her 3 point major). Not every show
will select a BOW.

Best of Breed (BOB) calculates its points based on the points
available from adding all the dogs in the classes with all the
specials, or all the bitches in the classes with all the specials,
whichever gives you the greater number of points. The points are
actually only awarded if the WD/WB is selected BOB.

Best of Opposite Sex (BOS) calculates its points based on the number
of dogs or bitches in the classes, plus all the specials that are the
same sex as BOS, whichever combination gives you the greater number of
points. Again, these points are only awarded to the BOS if that dog
was the WD or WB.

Thus, a 1 or 2 point show can turn into a major depending on how high
your dog goes.

Group winners are chosen from the BOB and BOS from each breed within
the group (all dogs are grouped into Toy, Sporting, Working, etc.
groups): Group I is first place, Group II second place and so on.

Dogs that go on to win Best In Show will get as many points as any dog
they defeat, if those points total more than what they have garnered
so far (but never for more than a total of five points).

But the only dogs that are actually awarded points are the dogs that
were initially Winners Dog or Winners Bitch for their breed.
Therefore, specials or veterans do not get points no matter how many
dogs they won over, which makes sense as they are already Champions
and do not need the points.

The number of points obtained at a particular show is dependent on the
number of dogs or bitches present, the breed, and the geographical
location of the show. There is a point schedule that determines the
ranges: rarer breeds require fewer dogs for points whereas popular
breeds must have more dogs present for the same points.

Sound hard? It is!

The next new show and the next new judge may pick the second place dog
over the first place dog under the same conditions that the other dog
won under. Different judges have different preferences in
conformation, It's usually better to try and show under a judge that
likes what your dog has to offer in strong points. Other judges may
see something else in other dogs that they prefer over what your dog
has. A year later or the next show, that same judge may like your dog
better. It depends on how the dog is "showing" each day. Dogs have
good and bad days like people do.

A short chart:

Best of Breed (points toward CH from greater points
| from either sex of class dogs including
| all specials, if also WD/WB)
|
Best of Opposite Sex (points toward CH from greater points
| from either sex of class dogs plus
| specials of same sex, if also WD/WB)
|
(WD/WB, Specials and Veterans compete for BOB/BOS)
|
Best of Winners (points toward CH taken from WD/WB,
/ \ whichever had more points)
/ \
Winner's dog Winner's bitch (points towards CH from
/ \ same sex group)
/ \
(first in each class advances to Winner's competition)
Open class Open class
American Bred American Bred
Bred by Exhibitor Bred by Exhibitor
Novice Novice
Dogs (12-18 mo.) Bitches (12-18 mo.) (new class)
Puppy dogs (9-12 mo.) Puppy bitches (9-12 mo.) (split in puppy
Puppy dogs (6-9 mo.) Puppy bitches (6-9 mo.) classes optional)

The classes are as follows: Open is for any dog, and very often
winners will be chosen from this class. Not always, but usually.
Open classes may be broken up depending on how many dogs are showing
that day. For example, labradors sometimes have Open Yellow, Open
Black, and Open Chocolate. American Bred is for those dogs born in
the USA. This class is often used if the handler has another dog in
Open already. Bred by Exhibitor class is often considered a
prestigious class -- breeders show their own dogs here, and winning
WD/WB from this class is usually highly prized by breeders. Novice
classes are for those dogs that have not yet won a class and is used
for practice with dogs that are too old for the puppy divisions. The
puppy classes (6-9/9-12/12-18) are usually for practice for young dogs
although WD/WB can certainly come from these classes. The puppy
classes may or many not be split among the three age groups and the
12-18 group may or may not be present at all; it depends on how many
dogs are present.

1. Standards

"How do you develop an eye for the 'perfect dog' in your breed?"

Books are actually a good way, especially one with lots of color
photos. Going to specialty shows is another a good way (specialties
usually have 50+ dogs of your breed there or at least enough for a
major). Talking to breeders and looking at what they point out on
dogs is yet another way. Mostly, you just "have an eye" or you don't.

If you don't, find a good breeder to help you at first. Make some
friends or pick a breeder you get along with and become "a little lost
puppy" and follow them. Don't talk much, listen a lot more than you
talk, and be respectful of them. They are really more likely to want
to help you if you do flatter them just a little, but be honest about
what you do and don't like. You can always learn something, and you
never stop learning! (Be sure to stay out of the way when they or
their dog is about to go in the ring.)

2. Estimated costs

If you use a handler, a CH on your dog will easily cost you about
$5000. If you handle the dog yourself and only go to local shows,
it's more like $2000. However, you may need to travel some to get to
the bigger or specialty shows in order to get the majors or different
judges, depending on how popular your breed is and the show circuit in
your area.

It's the fun you have with your dogs doing all these things that is
the real reward.

3. Finding out where shows are and entering:

If you subscribe to the _AKC Gazette_, you also get a monthly Events
Calendar that lists dates, places, superintendants, judges, etc. for
all the AKC events (including Regional and National Specialties),
including obedience, field, and herding trials. Each issue covers the
next three months for the US. This magazine is available by
subscription only. Subscription Information - (212) 696-8226.

_Dog World Magazine_ also lists both AKC and SKC events. Subscription
Information - P.O. Box 6500, Chicago, IL 60680.

Breed specific shows (specialties) are also advertised in
breed-specific magazines; if the breed club is affiliated with the
AKC, it will be listed in the Gazette.

If you get the AKC Gazette, you'll get a show listing and some entry
forms. You'll also get instruction in the booklet on how to fill out
and send in forms (also where). That's all.

C. Obedience.

Novice: There is Novice A and Novice B; the former for people who have
not put a Companion Dog (CD) on a dog before, the latter for people
who have. To get a CD, a dog must qualify in three different Novice
shows under three different judges; qualification is at least 170 out
of 200 points and at least half the points on every exercise.

Open: Open A and Open B are for dogs that have obtained their CD's.
Open A is for dogs that do not have a CDX, and handlers that have not
earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Open B. Open B is an
OTCH competition class; dogs with CDX's, UD's, or OTCH's may compete.
Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores (at least 170/200) under
three different judges gets the Companion Dog Excellent (CDX).

Utility: Utility A and B are for dogs that have obtained their CDX's.
Utility A is for dogs that have not obtained a UD, and handlers that
have not earned an OTCH on a dog. Otherwise, they're in Utility B.
Utility B is the other OTCH competition class; dogs with UD's or
OTCH's appear there. Similar to Novice, three qualifying scores under
three different judges gets the Utility Dog title (UD).

Note that Novice, Open, and Utility are not competitive in the sense
that any of the entered dogs may earn legs. However, it is
competitive in the sense that the top three or four scores will get
ribbons/prizes.

OTCH: Obedience Trial Champion. A competitive title earned after the UD.
Championship points are awarded to those dogs earning a First or
Second place ribbon in the Open B or Utility/Utility B class according
to the schedule established by the AKC. For the OTCH, the dog must
have 100 points, have won First place in Utility/Utility B with at
least three other dogs in competition, have won First in Open B with
at least six dogs in competition, another First place in Open
B/Utility/Utility B under the same conditions. Each of the First
places must be won from different judges.

1. Novice exercises

* Heeling on leash; this involves starts and stops, left and right
turns, and fast and slow walking. The dog is supposed to stay
with you at all times (head or shoulder next to your leg). Figure
8 on leash; there are two stops, dog has to stay with you with no
forging (going ahead) or lagging (falling behind). 40 points.

* Off-leash Stand for examination: your dog has to stand still while
the judge examines the head, neck and back, approximately. You
are standing at least 6 ft away. 30 points.

* Repeat of first heeling exercise (not figure 8 part) but without
leash. 40 points.

* Recall and finish: Dog sits about 30 ft. away. You call dog and
it comes briskly to you and sits. On command it then goes around
into a heel pattern sit. 30 points.

* Group exercise. About 10-12 dogs together go in and line up on
one end. Handlers sit their dogs and go to the opposite side.
This is the long sit, lasting for 1 minute. Then handlers down
their dogs and do the same for 3 minutes. Long sit is 30 points,
long down is 30 points.

2. Open exercises

* Heel Free and Figure Eight. Like Novice, except no lead. 40
points.

* Drop on Recall. Like Novice recall, except you signal or
command your dog to down when the judge tells you to.
The dog must stay in the down until you tell it to come
again. 30 points.

* Retrieve on Flat. You tell the dog to stay, and throw your
dumbbell at least 20 feet away. You then send your dog; it
must go directly to the dumbbell, bring it back, and sit
in front of you to deliver it. You take the dumbbell and
then do a finish. 20 points.

* Retrieve over High Jump. Like the Retrieve on Flat, except
the dog has to jump the high jump on the way out and on
the way back. 30 points.

* Broad Jump. You put your dog in a stay at least eight feet
behind the jump. You then walk to the side of the jump,
face the jump, and send your dog over it. While it's in the
air, you turn 90 degrees so your dog can come to a sit in
front of you. Then you do a finish. 20 points.

* Group exercise. Same as Novice, except handlers are out of
sight for the stays, and the sit and down stay are three
minutes and five minutes long, respectively. 30 points each.

3. Utility exercises

* Signal Exercise. You do an off-lead heeling pattern, with signals
only (no voice). In addition, on the judges command, you signal
your dog to stand and stay, and then from across the ring you
signal your dog to down, sit, come, and then finish. 40 points.

* Scent Discrimination. You have two sets of five identical
articles, one set of leather and one of metal. You out pick one of
each; the rest are set out in a group, at random, about six inches
from each other. You and your dog turn your backs on the pile,
and you scent one of the articles and give it to the judge, who
puts it out with the rest. You turn and send your dog to the pile,
who has to pick out the one you scented and retrieve it as in the
Retrieve on Flat. You then repeat the exercise with the other
article. 30 points.

* Directed Retrieve. You have three (mostly) white cotton work
gloves. You stand with your back turned to a side of the ring
that is clear of equipment, with your dog in heel position. The
gloves are placed one in each corner and one in the center along
that side of the ring. The gloves are numbered one, two, three
from left to right as you face them. The judge tells you which
glove to get, and you and your dog pivot in place to (hopefully)
face that glove. You then give a verbal command and signal to your
dog to retrieve the glove, as in Retrieve on Flat. 30 points.

* Moving Stand and Examination. You heel your dog about ten feet,
and then command the dog to stand-stay without stopping. You
continue about ten feet and then turn to face your dog. The judge
examines the dog with his hands as in breed judging (note this is
more thorough than Novice) except he does not examine the dog's
teeth or testicles. You then call your dog directly to heel
position. 30 points.

* Directed jumping. There are two jumps midway across the ring,
about 20 feet apart. One is a high jump, as in Open, and one is a
bar jump. You are about 20 feet away from the jumps, on the
center line of the ring. You send your dog down the center line of
the ring (between the jumps). When the dog is about 20 feet past
the jumps, you tell it to sit. Then you command and/or signal the
dog to take one of the jumps (the judge tells you which). The dog
must jump the jump, come to you, and sit in front. (While it is in
midair you turn towards it.) Then you do a finish. You then
repeat the exercise with the other jump. 40 points.

4. Other obedience trials

There are brace classes, for a pair of dogs, that perform exercises
out of novice. There are also veteran classes, for dogs at least
eight years old with an obedience title, doing exercises out of
novice. A versatility class, that takes two exercises each from the
novice, open, and utility trials, also exists. Finally, there is a
team class, for a set of four dogs, using exercises from novice.

There are often fun matches which are set up just like the regular
trials, but they don't count the score towards the title, and you may
correct in the ring. Many people use matches as a way to acclimatize
their dog to the ring. There are also some non-scoring categories
like Pre-Novice, again to help dogs acclimatize to the atmosphere.

D. Field and Hunting.

The difference between field trials and hunting tests is that field
trials compete dogs against one another in their marking, finding, and
retrieving ability, whereas the hunting trials are not inter-dog
competitive (similar to CD, CDX, and UD's from obedience).

Hunting tests (JH, SH, and MH) depend on the dog scoring at least 7's
on a set of criteria. Field trial tests will award the points to the
"best" mark, search and retrieve. Thus, hunting tests tend to more
closely approximate actual hunting conditions, whereas field trial
tests tend toward extremely distant marks, and straight line retrieves
where speed is paramount. Field trial tests award points toward a
championship, hunting tests do not.

There are hunting tests for retrieving breeds, pointing breeds, and
spaniels.

1. Summary of AKC Hunting Tests for Pointing Breeds (1 June 1992).

My thanks to Charlie Sorsby for the information in this section.

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the AKC Hunting Tests is comparison of bird dogs
against a standard, not competition against each other. A dog must be
AKC registered in order to receive any AKC Hunting Test title. In the
following, "Hunting Test" means an AKC licensed or member club hunting
test. In order to be awarded the Junior Hunter title, a dog must have
received Qualifying scores in four (4) Junior Hunting Tests. To be
recorded as a Senior Hunter, a dog must either qualify in five (5)
Senior Hunting Tests or must have earned a Junior Hunter title and
qualify in four (4) Senior Hunting Tests. To be recorded as a Master
Hunter, a dog must either qualify in six (6) Master Hunting Tests or
must have earned a Junior Hunter title and qualify in five (5) Master
Hunting Tests. Dogs that have received a Qualifying score in a
Hunting Test at any level are ineligible to enter any Hunting Test at
a lower level."

Dogs taking the Junior Hunting Test must demonstrate a keen desire to
hunt, show ability to find and point birds, be trainable. They cannot
be gun-shy. They may be restrained to prevent interference with
another dog.

Dogs taking the Senior Hunting Test must do the same things demanded
of a junior hunting dog, but with definite improvement. They must
also hold their point until the bird has been shot or they are
released. They must retrieve a shot bird but need not deliver to
hand. They must initially honor another dog's point.

And those dogs taking the Master Hunting Test must do the same things
as Senior hunter, but show more experience. In addition must also
show intensity and staunchness of the point, without breaking. Must
deliver to hand. They must demonstrate absolute honoring throughout
the entire flush, shot and retrieve.

Qualifying on a particular hunting test is referred to as "getting a
wing" toward the title.

2. AKC Hunting Tests (for retrievers)

2.1. JH: Junior hunter.
* 2 single marks on water.
* 2 single marks on land.

(ie. Dog sees 1 bird thrown. Dog waits until handler tells dog
to go and pick it up. Dog brings it back to the handler and
delivers the bird to hand. Repeat 4 times.)

Distances should never be more than 100 yards.

2.2. SH: Senior hunter.
* 1 double mark on land, 1 double mark on water (dog watches
2 birds thrown at the same time (actually one after the other)
then retrieves them both).
* 1 walk-up (the handler & dog are walking when a bird comes out).
* 1 honor (the dog has to watch another dog pick up a bird).
* 1 land blind, 1 water blind. (the dog never sees the bird, has to
rely on the handler for directions to the bird).
* 1 diversion (a bird is thrown while the dog is on the way back
with another bird).

2.3. MH: Master hunter.
* Multiple marks on land, multiple marks on water.
* 1 walk-up
* At least 1 mark where the dog goes from land, to water, to land
(called a combination)
* 1 land blind
* 1 water blind
* 1 double blind (usually run with one of the above blinds)
* 1 honor
* 1 walk-up
* 1 diversion

Usually, the a master test is done over fairly tough conditions
(ie. gut sucking mud, waist high grass, etc.)

3. Field Trial Championships

1. Retrievers

The dog must win a National Championship stake or a total of 10 points.
The points must be won in one of three stakes: Open All-Age, Limited
All-Age, or Special All-Age stake. There must be at least 12 starters.
Dogs get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point
for third place, and .5 point for fourth place. At least five of the
points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a specialty
trial) and the dog has to win a first place.

To win a retriever Amateur Field Championship: The dog must win a
National Championship stake handled by an amateur, win a National
Amateur Championship stake, or a total of 10 points in Open All-Age,
Limited All-Age, or Special All-Age Stakes (amateur handled). Or they
can win 15 points in any All-Age stake (amateur handled). Again, dogs
get 5 points for first place, 3 points for second place, 1 point for
third place, and .5 point for fourth place. Again, at least five of
the points must come from a trial open to all retrievers (not a
specialty trial) and the dog has to win a first place.

E. Tracking.

For tracking tests in general, the tracking leash shall be between 20
and 40 feet in length, and shall be visibly marked at a point 20 feet
from the dog; the handler shall follow the dog at no less than 20
feet.

Guiding (behavior by the handler which influences or determines the
dog's direction) isi prohibited. Handlers may give verbal commands
and encouragement to the dog. However, commands, signals or body
motions to indicate the specific location or track direction is
prohibited.

Motivational items (food, balls, toys, etc) are not to be used or
carried within 75 yards of a track.

1. TD: Tracking Dog

To enter a TD test, dogs must be at least 6 months old and be
certified. Certification (which is obtained by the dog passing a
regulation track for an AKC Tracking judge) must take place within a
year of the test date.

Each individual track is 440 to 500 yards long, and is aged from 30
minutes to 2 hours. It is rare for tracks to be aged more than 1
hour.

Three to five turns shall be used, at least 2 of which shall be 90
degree turns. Each leg shall be at least 50 yards in length, and the
first turn must be more than 30 yards from the second of two starting
flags (which are themselves 30 yards apart).

2. TDX: Tracking Dog Excellent.

The purpose of the TDX test is to "show that the dog unquestionably
that the dog has the ability to discriminate scent and possesses the
stamina, perserverance, and courage to do so under a wide variety of
conditions. ... It [the track] can lead anywhere a person might go."

A TDX test track is 800 to 1000 yards long, and three to five hours
old. It has five to seven turns, and the first turn is open. The start
consists of one flag (you and your dog get to figure out which way it
goes). There are at least two obstacles (roads, streams, fences,
changes in terrain, changes in vegetation, etc.), and there are two
pairs of cross tracks that are approximately 1 1/2 hours fresher than
the primary track. There are also four articles, all of which must be
found -- one at the start, two along the way, and one at the end.

E. Herding.

My thanks to Lily Mummert for the information in this section.

In general, for herding tests:

* Dogs have to be 9 months old to compete in AKC herding events.
* A dog is not required to have an HT before competing in Pre-Trial,
or to have either test title before competing in trial classes.
Testing is recommended, however.
* Not all herding events are listed in the Gazette currently, but an
updated list is sent out with each issue of the Herdsman (the AKC
herding newsletter). The reason the info isn't in the Gazette is
because of its long lead time. The AKC is trying to modify the
publication schedule of the events calendar so they can get
herding event info in there in a more timely fashion.

1. Titles

HT: Herding Tested
PT: Pre-trial Tested
HS: Herding Started
HI: Herding Intermediate
HX: Herding Excellent
HCH: Herding Trial Champion

Test classes: herding and pre-trial. These are pass/fail. If your dog
passes two herding tests under two different judges, it earns the HT
(Herding Tested) title. Similarly, the dog earns the PT (Pre-Trial
Tested) for passing two pre-trial tests under two different judges. For
both classes, you get 10 minutes to negotiate the course.

Herding test elements:
- a sit or down stay at the start,
- controlled movement of the stock between two pylons, located at
opposite ends of the ring. Includes two changes in direction.
- stop and recall at the end

Pre-trial test elements:
- a stay at the start
- controlled movement of stock, including a change of direction and
passage through four gates
- a stop at some point on the course
- a stop before penning the stock
- penning the stock

Trial classes: herding started, intermediate, and advanced. The
titles associated with each of these levels are HS (Herding Started),
HI (Herding Intermediate), and HX (Herding Excellent). For each of
these titles, the dog must earn three qualifying scores in the
appropriate class under three different judges. There's also the HCH
(Herding Champion), which is a competition title -- the dog must have
an HX, and then earn 15 championship points in the Advanced class.

There are three courses that may be offered for each class. The
premium list for a trial specifies which course(s) will be offered.
Course A is in an arena. Course B is a modified ISDS course; it's in a
field. Course C is a modified version of what is used in Europe; it
includes negotiating roads and such.

According to my instructors, Course A is the most widely used of the
three, so I'll describe that one. You get 10 minutes on this course,
regardless of class. For herding started, the dog lifts the stock at
the top of the course, and moves them through four obstacles around
the course in a predetermined order. The obstacles are chutes or gates
of various kinds. The dog then pens the stock. For the intermediate
class, there's an outrun, lift, and fetch, with the handler staying at
a handler's post until the dog has passed the post (after the outrun,
lift and fetch). One of the obstacles is a holding pen -- the dog has
to move the stock into the pen and hold them there for about a minute.
Then there's the pen at the end. Advanced has the same elements as
intermediate, except the course is longer, and the handler's movement
is more restricted. The other courses also get vastly complicated as
you go from started to advanced.

1. References

SHEEP! Magazine
Rt. 1
Helenville WI 53137

The Working Border Collie, Inc. (bimonthly magazine)
14933 Kirkwood Road
Sidney, Ohio 45365
(513) 492-2215

The Ranch Dog Trainer (magazine)
Rt. 1, Box 21
Koshkonong MO 56592

Holmes, John. _The Farmer's Dog_. Order from SHEEP!

Jones, H. Glyn. _A Way of Life_. Order from SHEEP!
H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.

Karrasch, Dick. _Training a Stockdog: For Beginners_. Wondereye
Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.

O'Reilly, Chuck. _Training Working Livestock Dogs_. Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.

Robertson, Pope. _Anybody Can Do It_. Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.

Templeton, John and Matt Mundell. _Working Sheep Dogs_. Order from
SHEEP!

There are many videos listed in the back of the magazines. There is
also a wide variety of breed specific books relative to the breed of
dog you are interested in. Please write to the appropriate parent club
for details. In addition, both the American Herding Breeds
Association and the Australian Shepherd Club of America offer herding
trials and their own titles.

There is an electronic mailing list devoted to herding issues.
Contact Terri Hardwick at herders...@mcnc.org for information on
how to join the list.

F. Championships.

1. Dual or Triple Championships

Currently three titles awarded by the AKC go into making up the DCH
and TCH titles. These are:

CH - Champion of Record.
OTCH - Obedience Trial Champion.
FCH - Field Trial Champion.

These three titles can be combined in the following manner:

DCH - One of the following combinations:
CH + OTCH, CH + FCH, OTCH + FCH

TCH - CH + OTCH + FCH

Any dog who is a DCH or especially a TCH is an outstanding
representation of the breed. If the DCH is one half Champion of
Record this is a dog that most breeders would give their eye teeth to
breed to.

NB: HCH is a very new title, so the AKC rule books have not yet come
out detailing the possibly new combinations for dual and triple (and
quadruple!) championships.

The first dog of any breed to win a triple championship under AKC was
Triple Champion Cariad's Kutya Kai Costa, VD (a Vizsla). He finished
his Breed Championship in '76, Field in '77, and Obedience in '80, and
was trained and handled througout his career by his (amateur) owner,
Robert Costa.

2. Title notation

Certain titles go before the dog's registered name, others go after.
Championship titles go before the name; non-championship titles go
after the name.

There are also orderings within the champion and non-champion titles.
If a dog also has a Amateur Field Championship that title is placed in
front of its name, in addition to the other titles (e.g., CH), but
behind them if they exist.

At an AKC event, a dog may be listed only with its AKC-recognized
titles. Therefore, it may not have all of its titles listed in the
catalogue for the show. Outside of AKC sponsorship, all of the titles
that a dog has earned may be listed.

G. Other AKC Titles.

1. AKC Canine Good Citizen Test

(from the AKC pamphlet)
"The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Test is to demonstrate
that the dog , as a companion of man, can be a respected member of the
community, and can be trained and conditioned always to behave in the
home, in public places, and in the presence of other dogs, in a manner
that will reflect credit on the dog. The Canine Good Citizen Test is
not a competitive program, but rather a program of certification; it
seeks to identify and recognize officially those dogs that possess the
attributes that enable them to serve effectively as personal
companions and as members in good standing with the community."

* Evaluated on appearance and willingness to be groomed and
examined, reaction to approach of a stranger.

* Evaluated on acceptance of a stranger in a natural everyday
situation: owner and judge shake hands, talk. Dog must not show
signs of resentment or shyness and must remain in sit.

* Must demonstrate that dog is under control in walking. Heeling is
not required, but dog must not lag or forge.

* Demonstrate walking through a crowd. Dog may show some interest
in the people, but remain calmly with owner.

* Must demonstrate that the dog will allow a stranger to approach
and pet it. Dog must remain sitting.

* Demonstrates sit and down on command by owner.

* Demonstrates stay. Owner walks 20 feet away then returns.
Must maintain position until released.

* Demonstrate good behavior around another dog. Should show no more
than casual interest.

* Reaction to distractions: sudden noises, animated talking and
backslapping, a jogger, shopping cart, or bicycle passing closely
by. Dog may show interest, curiousity, momentary startle but no
panic, aggression, nor barking.

* Demonstrate being left alone: fastened to a fifteen foot line and
owner is out of sight for 5 minutes. No whining, barking, or
howling.

Currently,

1) AKC plans to expand and promote the test more.
2) They do have colors for qualifying ribbons: turquois
and gold.
3) AKC is thinking about dog tags and/or wallet cards for qualifying.
4) AKC is going to advocate that dogs that have proven to be under
control be allowed on leash in parks that don't allow dogs.
5) They are going to ask clubs to lobby their states to have the
test recognized as a sign of a responsible owner.

H. AKC Breed Clubs.

There are a number of breed clubs, affiliated with AKC that focus on
particular breeds. Besides promoting their breed, they also sponsor
specialties for their breed (facilitating major-point shows, for
example).

Many breed clubs require sponsors to become a member. They want you
to learn from other breeders. If you go to a show and become friends
with a breeder and talk to some others, you will get sponsors quickly.
Breeders like to be a mentor to a new member. If you hang around long
enough and really start asking a lot of questions on the spot
(preferably when they are not nervous about being next in the ring)
you'll become quickly accepted. Find a breeder you want to get your
next puppy from and talk with them a lot.

A sponsor is another breeder that has talked to you and told you about
the ethics and looked at you to make sure you are not likely to become
a puppy mill breeder. They are looking at you to make sure you are
trying to improve the breed and you are going to be responsible about
breeding and showing.

Most if not all breed clubs have a code of ethics that members must
adhere to.

Many AKC breed clubs have their own certificates and titles. For
example, the Labrador Retriever Club has the WC (Working Certificate)
title that is very similar to the AKC JH title.

There are other breed clubs that are NOT affiliated with the AKC, for
various reasons. Examples include the Australian Shepherd Club of
America.

K. Entering the World of Showing and Breeding.

Before you do anything else, you should head out to your library and
read up as much as you can on your breed before attempting to make
contacts. You will present a much more favorable impression if it is
clear that you've done some reading and are serious when you come up
to ask questions. Be aware that if you're serious about getting into
show and possibly breeding, you will be investing literally years of
your time.

While this information is in the AKC section of the FAQ, most of the
following is applicable to anyone desiring to show and breed under the
auspices of any Kennel Club.

1. Getting into the show world

You will need to meet and get to know other people in the show arena.
This generally involves attending dog shows and talking to the owners
(at appropriate times, of course). Joining up with your breed's club
also gives you more contacts to learn from. Expect an "apprentice"
period as the experienced folks scope you out and decide just how
serious you are. This takes patience, but is well rewarded later when
you have resources for the questions that will inevitably come up.

You might get the opportunity to help out someone who is showing their
dogs. This gives you a closeup view of what is involved with your
breed and showing.

Some good books about showing (AKC-oriented) are:

Forsyth, Robert and Jane. _Guide to Successful Dog Showing_. Howell Books.
Nicholas, Anna Katherine. _The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging_. Howell Books.
Seranne, Ann. _The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog_. Howell Books.
Tietjen, Sari B. _The Dog Judge's Handbook_. Howell Books.
Vanacore, Connie. _Dog Showing: an owner's guide_. Howell Books.

2. Responsible breeding

(a) How do I go about convincing a breeder that I'm a serious prospect
for getting a puppy for show and possible breeding?

This can be difficult -- responsible breeders often form a
unintentional "club": they are very concerned about their puppies and
prefer to sell to people they know or are highly recommended. Also,
really good breeders often have long waiting lists for all their
puppies that can be years long. This is where your previous leg work
in making contacts among the show and breeder in your breed helps out.
IT WILL TAKE PATIENCE. The payoff for waiting is much better,
although very frustrating.

You might "apprentice" yourself to a breeder and go over with the
breeder on the next few breedings: why the pair were chosen, what the
breeder was hoping to accomplish, etc. And then helping out with the
new litter: evaluating it, helping care for them, seeing all this
stuff first hand gives you a lot of feedback on whether you have the
will to do this yourself.

You may find it worth your while to go into co-ownership with a
breeder who is willing to be your mentor and coach you through your
first steps. Other contracts usually stipulate that you will get the
CH and/or CD, etc on your puppy before breeding it.

(b) Why are many breeders so difficult about "admitting" new people
into their ranks or even just helping them out?

Do understand that there are people who renege on their contracts (and
start breeding willy-nilly) and so there are breeders who are leery of
even sincere people. This is why you should work very hard to make
yourself known as someone who is really willing to do this right. It
is sometimes difficult to understand just how hard being a responsible
breeder is. Usually the new and upcoming breeder gets digruntled with
how hard it really is and gets the female spayed anyway, but sometimes
they just chuck it all and start breeding without thinking about it.

You just have to get your toe in the door. Once you do, watch out for
"information overload". Then you will understand why breeders are so
cautious. Then when you get really successful, they want you to do
your part and help everyone else that wants to give it a shot, or they
want help to really nail those people who goof it up for everyone
else.

(c) What if I just get a puppy and start breeding her?

Attempting to short-circuit this process by acquiring a petstore puppy
to breed will not work in the sense that no reputable breeder will
breed to your dog. You will not get good quality puppies via this
route. Most puppy-mill dogs are instantly spottable by their looks
and if not, the pedigree will always warn off prospective breeders.

(d) Do breeding-quality dogs have to have their CH?

Well, yes and no. Of course, opinion is divided on this, even among
the reputable breeders.

Some good dogs never finish their CH's because of other accidents or
constraints. As a breeder, you should know if your dog is finishable.
You should know its faults better than any judge that will ever see
the dog. It is up to the breeder to understand the standard and to
honestly evaluate their own dogs. If you are not qualified to do
this, then you need a mentor who can help you out.

On the other hand, as a demonstration of good faith and to be sure you
understand the work involved, many breeders who sell you such a puppy
will want you to have a go at getting a CH. That way you not only get
a bit of notice in the area, but you also see what others of that
breed look like and how your dogs compare to them in general. It also
exposes you to some of the worst ways to complete a dog's title as
well as some very nice dogs that just haven't been shown much. This
way when you do go to breed, you'll have a better idea of what you are
breeding for.

(e) What are the responsibilities involved in breeding?

It takes quite a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for
which bitch. Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not
produce any outstanding puppies. The individual dogs and their
pedigrees need to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on
one side will be complemented by strengths on the other side in the
same area.

You should consider that thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of
puppies in each of the more-well-known breeds are registered with the
AKC each year. Average or run-of-the-mill litters are simply not
needed; more than enough exist. Breeding only the truly outstanding
dogs within these popular breeds would still produce more than enough
puppies to meet demand.

Breeders usually breed for a specific purpose and with each litter
they are looking for a puppy with a particular set of characteristics.
Some good litters are very uniform, but more often than not, there is
only one or two such puppies. As a result, they end up with quite a
number of puppies that need to be placed in "pet" homes.

Competent breeders either work or show their dogs. If they are not
tested in any way, there is no external confirmation of the dog's
worth. Even if the breed in question is simply a companion-type dog
(e.g., not a sporting, hunting, or other working breed), there should
be temperament testing and showing to make sure the dogs are in line
with the breed standards.

While many breeds of dogs can make good companion dogs, they often do
so not because they were directly bred as "companions" but because the
traits they have been selected for are also compatible with what is
needed for a companion dog. For example, steadiness and trainability
are needed for most of the working breeds, these are also desireable
traints for companion dogs. In other words, they make good companion
dogs because of the years of breeding for working character and sound
structure. Keep in mind these characteristics can be greatly
diminished in just a few generations, so *each* generation needs to be
evaluated to make sure that those qualities that come together to
produce a good specimen of the breed are still present.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/getting-a-dog
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



GETTING A DOG.

Prologue.
A. What Kind of Dog?
B. What are My Responsibilities?
C. Where Do I Get One?
D. Where Do I NOT Get One?
E. Veterinarians.
F. Introducing Previous Pets.
G. Collars, Leashes, etc.
H. Pet ID.
I. Chew Toys.
J. Crating.
K. Housing.

Prologue.

This article is intended to provide anyone contemplating a new dog,
whether a puppy or an adult, with useful information. There are
appropriate FAQ articles with further information if you get a puppy
(new-puppy) or an adult (new-dog); see the files described above.

The very *best* of the recommended books are the Monks of New Skete books.

Excellent general information books are:

In the US, look at _1993 DOGS USA Annual_ for about USD $5.95.
Publishers are the same folks who put out Dog Fancy. Includes a list
of breeders, description of breeds, a directory of trainers and much
more.

In Canada, the corresponding booklet is _Dogs Annual in Canada_. This
includes information on breeders and descriptions for every breed, how
to choose a breeder, directory of trainers, basic training and health
care information, and more. It is an annual that becomes available
about the first week of December, and retails for about CND $6.

A. What Kind of Dog?

1. Factors to consider

There is an enormous variety of dogs in shape, size, personality, and
abilities. Different breeds will have certain characteristics for
which they were bred. Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in
breed books for further information. You must consider several things
before deciding on a dog:

* How much time can you spend with it? Dogs are social creatures.
They will not be happy left out in the back yard alone. You must
be committed to spending several hours a day with it.

* What space can you provide it? If you live in a small apartment,
you must take this into consideration: larger breeds and active
breeds will not do well unless you expend a good deal of effort in
meeting their needs. Larger dogs may also be more destructive in
smaller spaces, even unintentionally with wagging tails. Dogs can
be pretty adaptable so long as *you* help them out. Large dogs
can do well in smaller areas if you make sure that theirf needs
are met.

* How much money can you set aside for it? Even if you get a dog
from the shelter or otherwise inexpensively, you will have to buy
food, pay for veterinary checkups, vaccinations and routine
medical care, and purchase other equipement over the lifetime of
the dog. Not to mention replacing anything the dog may damage or
destroy. Do you have the financial resources for this?

* How much exercise can you give it? If your time is limited, you
should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough
exercise in your home or from short walks.

* How much training can you do? Regardless of the dog you get,
training will make your dog much more compatible with you and what
you want to do. A trained dog can go to more places with you
without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your life.

* How much grooming can you do? How much hair are you prepared to
have in your home? You should give serious consideration to these
factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping,
stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming;
others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both
shed and require grooming. Do note that just about all dogs will
require some nail clipping regardless of conditions.

* Which sex do you want, male or female? There are pros and cons to
either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not apply
to a specific dog. By all means, if you have a preference, get
the sex you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't matter
-- look for the dog you hit it off with.

* What characteristics do you want in a dog? Different breeds have
been bred with specific purposes in mind. Dogs bred for scent,
for racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these traits.
Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy
you. Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below)
and talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of
characteristics. This also may be a reason to choose a purebred:
characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their
consistent breeding. Do recognize, however, that dogs show
individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed.
Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.

2. Purebred or mixed-breed dogs

If you are interested in a purebred dog, you should pick up a book on
dog breeds (most libraries will have a good selection) and do some
research, with the above questions in mind. There are some
breed-specific FAQ's listed in the Introduction. Finally, you should
SERIOUSLY consider attending a dog show where not only can you
potentially contact breeders, but you can see ADULT specimens of the
breed you are considering. It's very important to remember that cute
little puppies remain cute little puppies only for a matter of weeks.

If the dog's breed is not important to you, you should still consider
the above list when choosing the dog. You do face a few more
unknowns since a mixed-breed puppy (e.g., a "mutt") may or may not
clearly exhibit what its adult characteristics will be.

3. Books

Listed here some good references on dog breeds; others appear in the
References section. In addition, there are many that are specific to
one breed. Space prohibits listing any of these type of dog books
here, but you should look up breed specific books on the breeds you
are especially interested in for even more detailed information. The
breed specific FAQ's mentioned in the introduction will contain
recommended pointers.

De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson. _The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds_. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
(1990). ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardcover).
This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos. Includes a
short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).

Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds. _The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club_. Eighteenth
edition. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1992.
This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature. Newly
admitted breeds, such as the Shar-pei, have been added to this
edition.

Sylvester, Patricia, ed. _The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.
Revised edition. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY. 1989. ISBN 0-89577-340-6. 384 pages.
Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
photographs as well.

Tortora, Daniel F. _The Right Dog For You_. Fireside, Simon &
Schuster Trade Books. 1983. ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires to
alert you to the potential significance of various features of breed
behavior and physical characteristics. One of the few that lists
potential problems of each breed rather than giving a glowingly
positive one for each.

Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz. _Atlas of Dog Breeds_. TFH
Publications.
Over 900 pages long in large format. The authors are top notch
writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
resource of the world's dog breeds. The book is profusely
illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
article. This book makes a good effort to show every color and
every coat type of each breed in the various photos. Expensive.

Project BREED Directory. Network for Ani-Males and Females,
18707 Curry Powder Lane, Germantown, MD 20874, 301-428-3675.
There is a section on each breed (over 100 listed) listing specific
breed rescue organizations and individuals throughout the US. It
also describes each breed's appearance, origins, traits, and the
most common hereditary health problems for that breed. No pictures.
Check or money order ($15.95 plus $1.50 s/h) for a copy.

B. What are My Responsibilities?

There are responsibilities that go along with being a good dog owner.
A dog will live from 10 to 20 years, depending on its breed, size and
general health. This is a long term commitment, and you must be ready
to provide the dog with a home for that duration. You must make
provisions for it when you go on vacation. It needs attention, love,
and respect from you: feeding and watering it are not enough.
Consider it part of your family: this is no joke as that is exactly
what the dog thinks YOU are: its pack, its family.

* You are responsible for its health. An essential part of owning a
dog is making sure that it gets good medical care. Check the vets
in your area and pick out one before you even get your dog. Take
your dog in to the vet immediately after acquiring it and take it
in regularly thereafter. You will have expenses for yearly shots
and, in many areas, heart-worm preventive. Puppies and dogs
routinely die without adequate veterinary care.

* If you get your dog for protection, you are obligated to make sure
that it is safe, reliable, and trustworthy around people. Never
chain it up in the back yard, or encourage it to snarl and bite
other people. Never try to make a dog "vicious." Such
irresponsible treatment results in tragic stories of children and
adults being mauled or even killed, the dog being put down, and
various dog bans being enacted. A dog can protect you just fine
by barking at suspicious noises and allowing you to investigate.
It does not have to be vicious. A good protection dog is always
well trained, properly socialized, and has a relationship with its
owner that encourages it to be protective. Higher levels of
protection (such as attack dogs) require considerable training and
experienced handling and are most definitely not for everyone.

* You are responsible for your dog's reproduction. You must either
get it neutered, or make provisions for keeping your bitch away
from dogs when in heat. If your male is intact, you must keep him
under control when he smells a bitch in heat. If you breed, you
are responsible for making sure that your dog or bitch is suitable
for breeding (i.e., good health, good temperament, good specimen
of the breed, and free of genetic defects), and making sure that
all resulting puppies are placed in good homes. The millions of
dogs that must be put down annually in the US are the result of
owner irresponsibility about their pet's reproduction.

* You are responsible for your pet's behavior. This means keeping
your dog under control. Do not let it roam; do not let it become
a nuisance to others in your neighborhood. Keep it on a leash
when walking so that it does not run up to other people or dogs
and bother them. Clean up after it or curb it (make it go in the
gutter) when it eliminates, *especially* in public areas. Many
parks, beaches, and lakes are closed to dogs because of
irresponsible owners in this regard.

* You are still responsible for the dog when you "get one for your
kid." Unless your child is old enough, at least 13 (and highly
variable at that), she or he will not have the sufficient maturity
to take responsibility for the dog. A dog can be a good way to
teach children about responsibility, but the dog is still *your*
main responsibility. Dogs acquired for this reason often wind up
in the shelters when the parents find out that they are the dog's
primary caretaker.

* You are responsible for becoming more knowledgeable about dogs.
Find some good books and read up. Enroll in puppy and dog classes
where you can learn much from the instructor; attend them even
before you get a dog or puppy for first hand knowledge of what you
can expect. Many dogs are in animal shelters with a note that
says "couldn't be housebroken" or "couldn't be trained."

* You are responsible for being prepared for the new dog. Never get
one as a "surprise gift." All members of your family must agree
on having a dog. Have food, water and food dishes, bedding,
collars and leashes, chew toys, and a veterinarian lined up before
you pick up your dog. Many "Christmas puppies" are found in the
shelters by New Year's Day.

Some books to try:

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
training, housetraining, and so forth.

Miller, Harry. _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).

This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog. You can
use this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush
up on what you don't. Besides sections on how to select the right
dog, it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding,
illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list
of AKC breeds.

Monks of New Skete, The. _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Little,
Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent,
well written classic.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).

This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.
It includes a basic listing of dog breeds (AKC). This is a good
general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved
in owning and caring for a dog.

C. Where Do I Get One?

There are really only three places that you should get a dog from: an
animal shelter, a *reputable* breeder, or a rescue organization.
Typically, dogs from shelters or rescue organizations are neutered, or
you will be required to neuter them as condition of purchase.

1. Animal shelters

The animal shelter is a good place to pick up a dog and save it from
death in the bargain. Look for a clean, healthy dog, keeping in mind
any constraints you may have. Look for signs of friendliness and
liveliness. Does it approach you in a friendly manner? Talk with the
people caring for the animals for any information on a particular
animal they can give you.

The best thing to do is to go the animal shelter every weekend and
spend time with the dogs. Try to put their plight out of your mind
for the moment--it would be nice to save them all, but you can't.
Instead, you should get to know the dogs on an individual basis.

Read the tags on each cage and see whether the dog was a stray, or
whether its owner turned it in for some reason. There are some
beautiful adult dogs in the pound that have been given up reluctantly
by ill or elderly owners. Don't overlook these!

Ask to see the dog in the holding area most shelters have. You'll be
able to check for signs of hostility, see if the dog knows anything,
and in general how it reacts to you. Expect some fear and
nervousness! A few doggy treats may help calm it. If things seem to
be going well, ask if you can take it on a walk, even just around the
compound. If you are curious to know its reaction to cats, take it by
the cat compound.

Finally, don't be afraid to say "not this dog," and walk away. It is
hard, hard, hard to walk away from a sweet dog, but you are looking
for a companion for life, so you will have to be honest with yourself
about what you want. There are horror stories from people who made an
impulsive decision in the pound and lived to regret it.

2. Breeders

If you plan to show your dog, or desire a healthy pet-quality
purebred, find a reputable breeder. Don't use newspaper
advertisements. Attend dog shows instead and talk to the owners
there. Or look for breeder advertisements in magazines like Dog
Fancy, Dog World, or others devoted to specific breeds. Libraries
often have a local breeder's registry book; you can also check the
yellow pages for breed referral numbers. Try contacting the local
breed club for the breed you are interested in.

The AKC has implemented a new program for breeder referral. The
number is 1-900-407-PUPS. Tell them the breed you are interested in
and where you live and they will give you the number of a person in
your area who will help you locate a reputable breeder near you. The
idea is to connect potential dog owners with local breed clubs and in
turn responsible breeders.

Remember, though no breeder is *automatically* responsible just from
the source you were referred from. You must determine whether a
breeder is suitable for your needs.

A book to read first is:

Shook, Larry. _The Puppy Report_. Lyons and Burford, Pubs., New
York. 1992. ISBN: 1-55821-140-3.
Larry Shook is a newspaper reporter who, despite working with an
allegedly reputable breeder, ended up with a purebred dog with a
very serious temperament problem - a problem that the breeder had
compelling reason to know about in advance. The result is this
helpful, short book about how to avoid breeders who'll knowingly
sell dogs that are very likely to have serious physical or
psychological problems.

a) Selecting the breeder

After you compile a list of potential breeders to contact, screen them
through the phone first. Here's a list of questions to ask (in no
particular order).

* Can you see the dam and if possible the sire?
* Where are the pups being raised, in a family setting or in a kennel?
* What health problems occur in the breed?
* Have these problems been checked in the parents? As appropriate:
OFA certification, CERF certification, etc.
* Request a copy of the sire and dam's lineage/pedigree.
* Titles on sire and dam.
* Info on puppies the sire and dam (together or with other mates)
have previously produced? (That is, are either of the parents
"proven"?)
* Has the puppy been crated trained, paper trained, etc.
* What breed clubs do you belong to? Do you have references?
* How many puppies were in the litter?
* Any difficulties during delivery?
* How often is the bitch bred?
* What guarantees do you offer on your animals?
* What is in your sales contract?
* Do you offer a spay/neuter contract for pet quality puppies?
* Have they been to the vet yet? Wormed? Shots?
* Are the dogs bred for the ring, field, or for general pet
purposes?
* How many breedings have you done to date? How long have you been
breeding? Names and phone numbers of several customers.
* How many different breeds have you bred? How many breeds are you
breeding now?
* If for some reason I cannot keep the dog, will you take it back,
no matter how old it is?
* If I want a bitch puppy so I can breed it as an adult, what kind
of, if any, restrictions will you include in the sales contract?
* Do you have a litter available? If not, when are you planning
one? (If a litter isn't presently available, ask if/when they are
next planning to show their dogs in your area. If you can go,
this is a golden opportunity to observe the structure and
temperament of the dogs they breed.)

When you meet with breeders, look for people that seem more concerned
with the welfare of their dogs than the amount of money they're
making. Look for ones raising the puppies "underfoot" and around
people. If the breeder is using kennels, check for cleanliness, happy
dogs, no overcrowding, shelter from the elements, plenty of fresh
water. Check and see how many different breeds the breeder is
breeding -- good breeders limit themselves to one or two (usually
related) breeds because of the time, expense, and energy involved in
producing excellent specimens of a particular breed. Otherwise, the
breeder may be operating what is essentially a puppy mill (check this
against how often the dam is being bred & what condition she is in).

A reputable breeder should have some history of breeding animals.
They may be breeding for show or field work or just plain good pets.
They should be able to tell you about some of their previous puppies.
They should be able and willing to discuss the health and well being
of the parents of your puppy including: eye conditions, hip dysplasia,
etc. In general, be suspicious of puppies from anyone who has not had
the parents at minimum x-rayed for hip dysplasia and had the eyes
checked by a veterinarian, or for other problems associated with the
breed. Not all breeds have the same problems, but breeders should
know what they are and be able to tell you which ones they've tested
for. And if you've done your homework beforehand, you'll know if
they're checking the right things.

You should be able to see one or both parents of your puppy; their
temperament will give you a good idea of your puppy's adult
temperament. Titles in hunting, obedience, or protection can indicate
good temperament. Being unable to see the sire is not uncommon, picky
breeders will often ship their bitch cross-country to a good prospect.
If both parents are owned by the breeder (and those are the only two),
chances are this breeder is a backyard breeder.

Check for some basic health problems: a litter that was larger than
the breed average may mean that the puppies are smaller and not as
healthy, a small litter might indicate trouble during pregnancy. A
litter of size one or two means that the puppies are getting little or
no socialization with littermates, regardless of health. The puppies
should look vigorous and be strongly sucking, beware of listless (though
sleeping is OK) puppies and indifferent suckling. Try to see the
puppies when they're likely to be active.

Puppies should be at minimum dewormed by eight weeks of age. The
first set of puppy shots is desireable as well. Beware of breeders
who have not had a vet see the puppies (or mother) at all.

Many responsible breeders only guarantee the general health of a pup
for a limited time (e.g. 48 hours). This is not a rip-off. The
breeder has no control over the pup once the new owner takes it.
Reputable breeders will stand by that guarantee *if* the new owner
takes the pup to a vet who finds something wrong (e.g. a communicable
disease) within that period but the breeder can hardly be held
responsible for a disease contracted after the pup is in its new home.
Thus, such an early trip to the vet is for the protection of all
concerned.

Guaranteeing against genetic defects is common: such a guarantee
generally means a refund or replacement in the case of a defect
occurring; it does NOT mean that the puppy will "never" develop a
genetic defect. Be wary of breeders that claim their puppies can
never develop some defect that does occur in the breed.

The breeder should also guarantee to take the puppy back if you are
unable to keep it rather than having it go to the pound. The breeder
should also be concerned about your living conditions and what you
plan to use the dog for before they allow their puppy to go live with
you. Many breeders will want to know what you plan to do about
reproduction. Many will require that a pet quality puppy be neutered,
and withhold registry papers until receipt of proof of neutering (thus
making any puppies from that dog unregisterable).

If guarantees or other contracts (such as spay/neuter) are involved,
get it all down in writing. A responsible breeder will not be
offended by such a step. If something goes wrong, you have no legal
recourse if there is nothing in writing, verbal contract laws in some
states to the contrary.

If you're planning on a puppy for show and possible breeding, look for
a breeder that is very picky about selling such puppies. If this is
your first such puppy, expect an offer of co-ownership if they think
you're serious. At the minimum, the breeder should be discussing how
they'll remain involved with the puppy. This is a valuable resource,
by the way, the breeder will be able to explain what the puppy's
pedigree means, what other dogs it should be bred to, how to show it,
and so on.

Good breeders often have a waiting list of potential puppy buyers and
often will not breed until they know they can place all the resulting
puppies. If you find a breeder you like, do not be surprised if you
are placed on a waiting list for a puppy. The wait will be worth it!

Approach getting a puppy as if you were adopting a child. Expect a
lot of questions and ASK a lot of questions! A responsible breeder is
also looking for a responsible owner.

b) Selecting the puppy

Many breeders let you see and play with the entire litter at once.
One puppy may come right up to you and investigate. Of course, it's
cute -- all puppies are. You may think this puppy has "chosen" you.
Instead, it's likely to be the most dominant puppy in the litter.
Dominant puppies will check new things out before the rest of the
litter does. Your "chosen" puppy may not be right for you if you're a
novice at dog ownership or obedience training.

A better way to select a pup from a litter is to do a little
temperament testing and pick the dog with the temperament that best
meets you and your family's needs. The Monks of New Skete's book,
"The Art of Raising a Puppy," discusses the Puppy Aptitude Test
developed by Joachim and Wendy Volhard. They indicate the degree of
social compatability and how readily a pup will accept human
leadership.

If the breeder picks a puppy out for you, that's also normal:
reputable ones will have evaluated their puppies and match one to you
based on what you've indicated you want.

3. Rescue organizations

Another excellent source for a purebred dog is from a rescue
organizations run by various clubs across the country. If it is a
breed rescue, dogs of that breed are rescued from shelters or private
homes as needed, fostered while a placement is found, and then placed.
The adoption fee usually is less than the cost of a purebred from
other sources.

For addresses of rescue services for various breeds, call the American
Kennel Club library, 212-696-8348, or check the breed-specific FAQ, if
one exists for your breed. You can also check the BREED book (listed
above); it contains over 1500 sources for rescue assistance for 72
breeds throughout the US. Breed clubs often run a rescue program; try
contacting the local breed club for the breed you're interested in.

There also exist all-breed and mixed-breed rescue groups; this is
another source besides the shelter to obtain a dog.

You should try to spend some time with each dog you consider adopting,
as recommended and described for shelter dogs. Talk to the people who
are fostering the prospective dog for a better idea of the particular
dog's temperament. Ask questions like you would with a breeder; expect
a good outfit to screen you as well. Expect them to ask for a donation
and require that the animal is neutered, if it isn't already.

D. Where Do I NOT Get One?

1. Backyard breeders

People who have unplanned litters or breed for profit advertise their
puppies in the paper. This is not a good source. If you must try
these, check the health of the puppies carefully. As with breeders,
look for people more concerned with the welfare of the puppies --
people out for a fast buck will not likely have seen to the health of
the puppies. If you are looking for a purebred, forget the backyard
breeders and find a reputable breeder instead. It will save you time
and money and heartache. If you don't care about having a purebred,
you will do better at the animal shelter.

It is not impossible that you will find a conscientious breeder
through the newspaper. Just check them carefully when you go and
visit them, like you would any other breeder.

2. Pet Stores

Don't buy pet store animals. These are often obtained from
disreputable sources such as "puppy mills" (where animals are bred
(and bred and bred) only for profit). By buying from the store, you
are supporting these mills and adding to the pet population problem.
In addition, you are obtaining an animal of dubious health and any
money you might save will likely go directly into vet costs as its
health deteriorates and you may even have to put it down. If it is
purebred and has papers, chances are very good that the papers have
been forged in some way and even that the puppy is not really
purebred. Even if the papers are legitimate, the pedigrees are often
extremely poor. Many behavioral problems appear in these puppies as
they are carelessly bred, separated too early from their mother and
littermates, improperly handled, unsocialized with either humans or
dogs, and forced to live in their own feces.

A graphic article in LIFE Magazine (Sept. 1992) illustrates the kinds
of problems with puppy mills.

Many pet stores have been instructing their employees to tell
prospective clients that all the animals in the store are from local
breeders. In many cases, this is simply not true. Other stores will
have pictures and commentaries on their walls to inform you how clean
and sanitary THEIR puppy mills are -- but "clean and sanitary" still
does not obviate the problems with socialization and bloodlines.
Don't be fooled! And you may not even want to patronize the stores
for pet supplies as this will indirectly support the mills, too.

E. Veterinarians.

Before you even bring your new dog home, take it to the vet you have
already selected. Annual shots and examinations are a must for
keeping your dog healthy. If you cannot afford veterinary care for a
dog, don't get one. Preventive and consistent care is less expensive
in the long run.

2. Choosing a vet

Choose a vet who you are comfortable with and who will answer your
questions. Check out the office: do animals seem just frightened or
are they also out of control? Is it bedlam, or reasonable for the
number of different animals there? Do you have local recommendations
from friends? Does the vet specialize in small animals as opposed to,
say, livestock? Try to get word-of-mouth recommendations.

Asking other pet owners isn't always effective because they may not
have had any unusual or challenging health problems with their pets,
and vets that can be okay for routine stuff often are less impressive
with unusal stuff.

Call vets in your area and ask the vet techs, not the vets themselves,
who they would recommend other than their own current employer.
Another good source is groomers, as they tend to hear a lot of stories
from their clients.

If you find the recommended vet is very expensive, he probably owns
the practice. Try one of the associates. They tend not to run up the
bills so much, and a good vet will usually hire good associates as
well.

Look for a vet who is willing to refer you elsewhere if they don't
know rather then saying something like "It must be an allergy",
etc.

Check to see if the vet is licensed by the AVMA (American Veterinary
Medical Association). They do extensive and picky inspections of the
facilities.

3. 24 hour emergency care

A good vet will either be associated with a 24 emergency care plan or
be able to give you the number of a good place in your area. Keep
this number on your refrigerator and check with your vet when you
visit that it's still up-to-date.

4. Fecal samples

Any time you bring your dog to the vet, try to bring a fresh fecal
sample. Put a small, fingernail-sized sample into a plastic bag, or
ask your vet for a supply of fecal samplers. The vet cannot always
get a fecal sample from the dog, and this saves you extra trips to
return the sample and then bring the dog in if the tests are positive.

Try an ordinary sandwich bag (e.g. a "Baggie" -- ziplock is convenient
but not necessary) and turn it inside out over your hand like a rubber
glove. Then simply pick up the stool with your covered hand, turn the
bag right-side out, enclosing the sample. Zip if ziplock otherwise
use a twist tie. This is perfectly sanitary (and you can use the same
procedure to clean up after your dog on walks).

F. Introducing Previous Pets.

You may need to introduce your dog to another pet that will share
living quarters (as opposed to simply meeting them while walking
along).

Introducing a puppy to an older dog is probably the easiest
combination. If the older dog is properly socialized with other dogs,
you will not have problems. If the older dog is not, you may have to
keep the dogs separated until you're more confident about their
getting along. (In any case, a puppy will often be restrained as per
housetraining efforts when you are not at home.)

If you are introducing a puppy to a cat, you will probably have some
trouble for a few months. Older cats, unless they've dealt well with
dogs before will probably hiss and spit at the puppy or avoid it for a
long time. As long as the cat has a place to retreat to and you teach
the puppy to leave the cat alone (granted, easier said than done), you
will work through problems eventually.

Puppies and kittens tend to get along just fine. Watch out for
possible accidental injuries if the puppy is (or will become) much
bigger than the cats.

If you are introducing an adult dog to an adult dog, it will depend on
their temperament and how well they get along with other dogs. You
might have some scuffles to establish a hierarchy -- keep an eye on it
but don't forbid it unless things get out of hand. If one dog reacts
very poorly to the other, you will have to separate them for a while
and work on introducing them slowly. You may have to keep them
separate when you are gone.

An adult dog with a cat can present problems if the dog thinks cats
make tasty snacks, or if the cat takes a dim view of dogs. You may
have to keep them separated, or expect a longer period of adjustement.
If the dog is fine with cats, introducing it to a kitten is easy.

In sum, it depends on the temperament and ages of the animals
involved. In most cases, you can simply introduce them, let them work
it out, and after a week to a month or so, things are fine. However,
sometimes this is a lengthy process that you will have to work
through, especially if it is cross-species. In general, this will
work:

Put the dog in its own room, where the original pet can smell it,
but not see it. After a day or so of this, remove the dog from the
room and let the original pet smell and explore the room thoroughly.
Put the dog back in. Depending on the reactions involved, let the
pets meet under supervision. If there is some hostility, separate
them while you are gone until you are certain that they get along.
It is best if you can arrange a "retreat" for each animal.

Meeting first in a neutral area such as someone else's house or in a
park, if possible, may help.

Arrange a retreat for a cat by blocking off entrance to a room with a
child's gate that the cat can jump over but the dog cannot.

Be sure that the original pet gets plenty of attention after the
arrival of the new pet. Resentment at loss of attention and change in
routine can exacerbate the problems with the two getting along.

Finally, remember that it can take several weeks to a year for the
animals to adjust. So your best resource is patience.

G. Collars, Leashes, etc.

You will need to be prepared with several things before you get your
dog. Among them include collars, leashes, food dishes, and so on.

1. Collars

A wide variety of collars exist. Leather collars are nice, strong and
sturdy, but they do pick up smells and if they get wet, may become
brittle or start to rot. Nylon stays much cleaner, but may fade,
especially with the brighter colors. Sometimes nylon rips
unexpectedly when encountering something sharp.

A partial listing:

* Flat buckle collars. These may come in either nylon, leather, or
sometimes cloth-covered nylon. These are the buckle type, with
holes along part of the collar for some adjustment.

* Flat quick-release collars. Like above, but with a quick release
snap rather than the buckle. Nylon only. These are very
convenient for easy removal of the collar. Some kinds are
adjustable as well, to a greater degree than the above-mentioned
collars, without the extra collar hanging at the end in smaller
sizes. This is very useful with a growing puppy.

* Rolled leather collars. These usually have a buckle. These avoid
the chafing or hair breakage that flat collars sometimes do to dogs.

* Braided nylon collars. These very thin collars are often used in
the show ring. Most people do not use these collars. They are
not very sturdy. Many of them tighten in the same way a choke
collar does.

* Halter-style collars. These are marketed under a wide variety of
names and are really a training tool, although they may be used in
place of a collar. There are several variations, but the
principle is that the collar goes around the nose and is anchored
on the neck. The leash is snapped on under the chin. The leash
action is thus on the nose, much like a halter on a horse. The
dog cannot pull when the restraint is on the nose. These should
NOT be confused with a muzzle -- the dog is not prevented from
opening its mouth. Halter-style collars are especially useful in
helping train a dog away from constantly pulling on the leash.
Owners with back problems will use these as "insurance."

* Choke chains. Sometimes called training collars or slip collars.
A wide variety, from large links to small links, usually metal.
In longer haired breeds, may pull hair out around neck. Generally
used for "corrections," hence the sliding action. Be sure to have
the collar on properly, check pictures for correct placement. The
heavier the chain is, the less effective the correction is (the
collar should loosen the instant you release pressure). You may
not want to leave this type of collar on an unattended dog, as it
might catch on something and choke the dog. Don't use these on a
puppy. For a good fit, buy a chain that is 2" longer than your
dog's neck and is the smallest/lightest possible in that length.
A very heavy chain will not give a good correction.

* Pinch or prong collars. These are a corrective tool. They are
not intended to be a "normal" collar, but are to be used while
training. They have a prong arrangement on the inside of the
collar that tightens painfully around the neck in a correction.
These collars should never be used on a puppy.

* Harnesses. If your dog is small or delicate, using a harness
instead of a collar when walking will avoid neck injuries. Be
sure the harness fits comfortably and will not chafe the arm pits.
You will probably want to use the harness for walking and still
have a normal collar for the tags. If you have a big dog that
likes to pull, getting a harness will only improve pulling power.

2. Leashes

Again, there are many kinds of leashes, in different lengths. You
will probably want a short leash for walking in crowds, a longer leash
for just walking along, and an extra long leash (that could just be
rope) for some training exercises.

You can find a variety of snaps on leashes. The most common is a hook
with a knob that pulls down to open the hook (snap hooks). Another
kind is a hook where the lower part pushes in (spring hooks). The
latter are better as they don't accidentally release. Look for hooks
with swivels to avoid twisting.

* Flat nylon leashes. The most common. They come in a variety of
colors and lengths.

* Braided rope leashes. These look like the rope used in rock
climbing, with the same colorful patterns. These are sometimes
easier on the hand and are quite sturdy.

* Leather leashes. These range from the plain to the intricately
braided. Take care to keep them out of the water to prevent
brittleness. Inspect them for wear. Shorter ones are ideal for
training.

* Metal link leashes. Especially if your dog likes to chew on
leashes. Sometimes combined with leather, especially for the
handle. Not a good leash to use with a choke-chain collar.

* Flexi-leads. Developed in Germany, these are spring-loaded,
retractable leashes that have a minimum length of 2.5 feet and
varying maximum lengths. They come in a variety of sizes. The
handle is bulky because it contains the retracting assembly, but
there is a comfortable hand grip. Be careful -- it is easy to get
wrapped up in the flexi-lead and rope-burn yourself or at least
get all tangled. These leashes are ideal for letting the dog
explore around you while you walk along. They are not very good
to use when training your dog because of the amount of give in the
rope even when the length is locked in.

3. Food dishes

In general you want to get ceramic or metal food dishes. Plastic food
dishes acquire microscopic scratches in which bacteria flourishes.
You should wash the food dishes frequently, just as you do your own.
Always supply fresh water with each meal.

If your dog has long hound ears, you should get the cone-shaped high
dishes that help keep the ears out of the food and water. Otherwise,
any dish will do fine for your dog. There are lots of cute dog dishes
out there.

Some of the larger breeds should have their food dishes elevated to
reduce strain on the neck and back. You can try wooden boxes.
Another possibility is to obtain traffic cones and cut the tips off --
food dishes then fit snugly on top.

4. Car restraints

You should have some way of restraining your dog in the car. This is
for your safety as well as your dog's safety. An unrestrained dog
that climbs everywhere may get into the driver's lap and cause havoc.
An unrestrained dog that likes to chew may destroy the interior of the
car. Even an unrestrained dog that lays quietly may be severely
injured if you get into an accident.

There are several types of restraints:

* Harnesses. There are a variety of different restraints that use
the harness and the seat belt to restrain the dog.

* Screens. You can purchase metal screens that fence off an area of
the car for your dog. These are usually used in trucks and
station wagon type of cars.

* Crates. You can get a crate to fit your dog and keep it in your
car. This is not feasible for everyone, especially the larger
your dog is and the smaller your vehicle is.

* Pickup leashes. There are various ways to restrain a dog in the
back of a pick up truck. These are generally not advisable, but
some people do use them. But if your dog must ride in the back of
a pickup, do use some type of leash. Crates, fastened down, will
also work.

* Leashes. You can even use a leash: clip it on your dog, and
either tie the other end to an arm-rest on the door, or close the
door on a loop of it in such a way that the dog's mobility is
quite restricted. Not the best long term solution, but it can
help in a pinch.

H. Pet ID.

There are several steps you can take to increase the chances of your
dog being returned to you if lost, or to decrease the chances of your
dog being stolen.

1. Pet tags

By far the most important piece of information on your pet's tag is
your telephone number, including the area code. Everything else is
just optional. Some people do not like to put their dog's name on the
collar, as that can make it easier for a thief to coax your dog along
with its name. The choice is up to you. Attach the tag to your dog's
collar securely. Do not use the "S" hooks -- many tags are lost that
way. Use the keyring type of attachment, or better yet, have the tag
riveted onto the collar.

Of course, one problem with tags is that they are easily removed
simply by removing the collar.

2. Tattooing

Get your dog tattooed. Tattoos cannot be removed or lost. This will
help identify your dog and get it returned to you (most animal
shelters will not destroy a tattooed dog). It helps deter theft and
ensures that your pet will not wind up in a laboratory somewhere.
Your vet can give you pointers to someone who can tattoo your pet. RC
Steele sells a do-it-yourself kit, worth considering if you have
multiple dogs.

Tattooing is an excellent way to protect your pets. In fact, there
are animal science laboratories and vet clinics around the country
that sponsor low-cost tattoo clinics and tattoo "fairs."

Get the tattoo put on the inside of your dog's thigh. This is much
harder to remove than one placed in your pet's ear. As long as the
dog is over 5 weeks of age, it can be tattooed. The younger the
better -- puppies are more easily controlled than adult dogs are.

You must get the tattoo number registered, or it isn't very useful in
locating you. If you use the National Dog Registry, use a number
that will not change. (Social security numbers are good.) There is a
one-time fee for registering the number, and you can then register
other pets with the same number.

Anesthesia is not *required* to do a tattoo, though it can help. You
might consider having your bitch spayed and tattooed at the same time,
for example.

You should note that tattooing (or micro-chipping) is a prerequisite
for registering a pure-bred dog in some countries, such as Canada.

Unfortunately, tattoos can fade over time. Also, especially in
double-coated breeds, it may be hard to find the tattoo when the hair
grows back.

3. Microchip ID

An alternative, that is used in Canada, and increasingly in the US is
an injected microchip. The microchip contains a numbering system that
is accessed by many local animal shelters and vet hospitals in the San
Francisco Bay Area. Each microchip has a 10 digit alpha/numeric code
that is assigned to you (or your kennel) and your pet. The code is
kept on file at Info Pet (US) [what is the Canadian counterpart?] on
computer and is readily available. Some of the information that is
kept on file are extra emergency numbers to have contacted should your
pet be impounded or taken to an animal hospital due to injury or
illness. Your vet's name & number are also included along with any
important medical info about your animal. This is important for
animals that have life threatening medical conditions that need
constant treatment.

Not all shelters check for the chip, but increasing numbers are doing
so in the US. There are no documented cases of medical problems
related to the insertion of the chip just under the skin. Since
tattoos can fade over time, this is an alternative to consider. It
takes about 2 minutes to insert the chip and fill out the form. After
that, all you have to do is pay yearly dues. Info Pet may not be
active in your state yet. They have services in California and Oregon,
and most of the New England states with a few in the midwest area. You
can give them a call at 1-800-463-6738. [What are the Canadian
counterparts?]

Of course, if the facility does not have a scanner, it cannot make use
of the information on the chip. Also, if some individual has found
your dog, that person is not likely to have a scanner at home.

4. Thefts

Animal thefts do happen, this is a fear of pet owners everywhere.
First of all, if your dog is missing or stolen, you have a
responsibility to report it to the police. They may not always be
able to do anything about it, but if they get several reports, then
they can justify putting some time on it. Don't make the mistake of
thinking that you are bothering the police!

Call the shelters and the local vets and tell them of your loss, they
can be on the lookout for your dog. Most vets will take a description
of your dog and contact others in the area to keep an eye out for it.
Put up flyers in the immediate area. If your dog has been tattooed or
micro-chipped, it may show up shortly.

I. Chew Toys.

1. In summary

Nylabones are best for keeping teeth clean. Followed by either
Gumabones or Nylafloss. Virtually any chew toy has potential
problems, always keep an eye out for them.

2. Nylabones

Nylabones are most highly recommended. They cost about 3 times as
much as a rawhide but last for a very long time. Some dogs don't like
them and may need some encouragement; most will happily use them.
Some dogs chow down on them so enthusiastically that they get "slab"
fractures on their teeth. Nylabones should be replaced when the ends
show signs of wear.

3. Gumabones

Gumabones are similar to nylabones, but a bit softer and without as
much tooth cleaning ability. The manufacturer says that Gumabones are
more likable and serve as toys, but the Nylabone is necessary to
satisfy frustration chewing and chewing due to a need to chew. Some
dogs have trouble with flatulence when they ingest the small pieces of
gumabone that they chew off. Replace when the toy shows signs of
crumbling.

Note that there are many kinds of toys out there made of soft rubber
-- Gumabones is a particular brand name of a common sort of dog toy.

A similar toy is the "tuffy" -- usually a red cone-shaped toy made of
rubber that is harder than the Gumabone variety. It comes in a giant
black size, various smaller red sizes, and one that is white and blue
with a throw strap that floats. These are guaranteed against
destruction. This toy has a hollow center and hiding treats in it can
provide your dog with much enjoyment.

4. Nylafloss (also rope bone, booda bone)

Nylafloss is also well accepted and is the best tooth cleaner of all.
To many dogs, though, it is only interesting when you wave it in the
dog's face. (Nylafloss looks like very a thick, knotted rope.) Watch
out for dogs that like to chew them through and swallow pieces of
string.

5. Rawhide

Rawhide is not recommended by most people because the dogs tend to
swallow large pieces, which swell and sometimes block the intestines.
Also, if the shank gets slimy but the knot is still hard, the dog can
swallow the shank and choke on the knot. You can prevent this by
buying rawhide in other shapes, such as chips, or buying shredded and
compressed rawhide treats (although these do not last as long).
Lastly, and much more commonly, they cost a fortune if you have a
mid-to-large dog or a dog with powerful jaws. If you do use them,
look for US-or-locally manufactured ones; imported ones sometimes have
chemical residues.

6. Bones

There are specially treated bones that resist splintering, and you can
hide treats in the hollow center, giving your dog hours of enjoyment
trying to get them out. Untreated organic bones may splinter and
cause tooth wear or even gum and mouth injuries. Eating the pieces
often results in constipation. The best bones are the large ones that
resist splintering. Replace after cracks or splinters appear.

Small bones, especially chicken bones should NEVER be given to a dog.
They will crunch down and swallow the bones, which may lodge in the
throat and choke the dog, puncture the esophagus or stomach lining, or
block the intestines. If your dog is not immediately killed, it will
require expensive surgery to get the bone out of its body.

7. Cow hooves

Cow hooves are better than rawhide because they break down into
smaller pieces and are much cheaper and more durable. However, like
organic bones, they can cause gum and mouth injuries if they chip.
They smell somewhat and may cause tooth wear. Smoked hooves are
available that don't smell as much. Pick out the largest, most solid
hooves; replace when they are worn down to a small piece. Stop using
them if your dog splinters large chunks off them. Slab fractures are
also possible with cow hooves.

8. CHOOZ

Another item is CHOOZ, by the makers of Nylabones. This item looks
like a nylabone but is crunchy like a hard dog biscuit. It can also
be tossed into your oven or microwave to change its texture (makes it
lighter and more like a hard bread). CHOOZ has been involved in at
least one case of gastric blockage; you may not want to use it.

9. Pig's ears

Pig's ears look like good chew toys, but the truth is that dogs can
eat them in about 15 minutes or so. Dogs love them, but they are not
a chew toy and should be used as an occasional treat instead. Given
too often, they will cause loose stools.

J. Crating.

Crating is a controversial topic. There are those who believe that
crate training is indefensible and others who believe that it is a
panacea. The reality is likely somewhere in between.

1. What does the dog think?

First, you must understand what the crate represents to the dog. Dogs
are by nature den creatures -- and the crate, properly introduced, is
its den. It is a safe haven where it does not need to worry about
defending territory. It is its own private bedroom which it
absolutely will not soil if it can help it. Judicious use of the
crate can alleviate a number of problems, stop others from ever
developing, and aid substantially in housetraining.

Where is the crate? It should be around other people. Ideally, set
it up in the bedroom near you. Have the dog sleep in it at night.
Dogs are social and like to be around their people. Don't force it
into the crate. Feed your dog in the crate.

2. Prices and recommendations

A plastic airline approved (leakproof) crate will run from $10 to $75
depending on the size. These are the cheapest prices available. If
flying with a dog, most airlines will sell a crate at near-wholesale
prices. Vendors at dog shows often have good prices, especially for
slightly imperfect ones. Pet stores sell them at astronomical prices.
Mail order stores have competitive prices (but watch out for added
shipping costs), and they sell wire mesh cages. Wire mesh is
comparable in price to plastic airline crates, but the sizing is
different.

Wire cages are not as appealing to dogs that like the safe, enclosed
nature of a crate, but they have better ventilation for use in warm
places. You might, for example, have a plastic crate in your house
and a wire one for the car.

The crate should be large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up and
turn around in comfortably, but not large enough for the dog to
relieve itself at one end and sleep at the other. You may buy a crate
sized for an adult dog and block off part of it with a chew-proof
obstacle until the dog grows into it, or you may buy a succession of
crates as the dog grows.

If you use a crate in your car, consider something like the Crate
Mate, which is a heavy pouch that attaches permanently to a plastic
crate. It has a clear window for information about the dog, including
owners name/address/etc./vet info/medication info/etc. All this is in
red thirty point type. There's also room for 3-4 days supply of food,
medication, etc., leashes, collars, even a water bottle. They're in
bright colors so they can't be missed. Order from Custom Dog Supplies
(see Resources) or make your own.

3. Proper use of a crate

Crating a puppy or dog often seems unappealing to humans, but it is
not cruel to the dog. A dog's crate is similar to a child's playpen,
except it has a roof (dogs can jump out of a playpen) and is
chewproof. Also, a crate is not suitable for activity or exercise,
but rather for rest. Dogs are carnivores and do not need to be
constantly active during the daytime, like people (as gatherers) do.

If a crate is properly introduced to a dog (or puppy) the dog will
grow to think of the crate as its den and safe haven. Most dogs that
are crated will use the open crate as a resting place.

The major use of a crate is to prevent the dog from doing something
wrong and not getting corrected for it. It is useless to correct a
dog for something that it has already done; the dog must be "caught in
the act". If the dog is out of its crate while unsupervised, it may
do something wrong and not be corrected, or worse yet, corrected after
the fact. If the dog is not corrected, the dog may develop the
problem behavior as a habit (dogs are creatures of habit), or learn
that the it can get away with the behavior when not immediately
supervised. A dog that rarely gets away with anything will not learn
that if nobody is around it can get away with bad behaviors.

If the dog is corrected after the fact, it will not associate the
correction with the behavior, and will begin to think that corrections
are arbitrary, and that the owner is not to be trusted. This results
in a poorer relationship and a dog that does not associate
corrections, which are believed arbitrary, with bad behaviors even
when they are applied in time. This cannot be overemphasized: a dog's
lack of trust in its owner's corrections is one of the major sources
of problems between dogs and their owners.

A secondary advantage of a crate is that it minimizes damage done by a
dog (especially a young one) to the house, furniture, footwear etc.
This reduces costs and aggravation and makes it easier for the dog and
master to get along. It also protects the dog from harm by its
destruction: ingestion of splinters or toy parts, shock from chewing
through wires, etc.

A young dog should be placed in its crate whenever it cannot
be supervised.

If a dog is trained in puppyhood with a crate, it will not always
require crating. Puppies or untrained dogs require extensive crating.
After a year or so of crate training, many dogs will know what to do
and what not to, and will have good habits. At this time crating
might only be used when the dog needs to be out of the way, or when
traveling.

4. Crating do's and don'ts

* Do think of the crate as a good thing. In time, your dog will
too.
* Do let the dog out often enough so that it is never forced to soil
the crate.
* Do let the dog out if it whines because it needs to eliminate. If
you know it doesn't have to eliminate, correct it for whining or
barking.
* Do clean out the crate regularly, especially if you've put in a
floor and you have flea problems.
* Don't punish the dog if it soils the crate. It is miserable
enough and probably had to.
* Don't use the crate as a punishment.
* Don't leave the dog in the crate for a long time after letting it
eat and drink a lot. (because the dog will be uncomfortable and
may have to eliminate in the crate.)
* Don't leave the dog in the crate too much. Dogs sleep and rest a
lot, but not all the time. They need play time and exercise.
* Don't check to see if your dog is trustworthy in the house
(unsupervised, outside of the crate) by letting the dog out of the
crate for a long time. Start with very short periods and work
your way up to longer periods.
* Don't ever let the dog grow unaccustomed to the crate. An
occasional stint even for the best behaved dog will make traveling
and special situations that require crating easier.
* Don't put pillows or blankets in the crate without a good reason.
Most dogs like it cooler than their human companions and prefer to
stretch out on a hard, cool surface. Besides providing a place to
urinate on, some dogs will simply destroy them. A rubber mat or a
piece of peg-board cut to the right size might be a good
compromise (be sure to clean under any floor covering frequently).

K. Housing.

In general, your dog should sleep with you in your room at night.
However, you may still want to provide it with shelter, etc. if you
leave it outside while you are gone, for example.

1. Dog houses

A variety are available, and you can make your own. In general, look
for an elevated floor and sturdy construction. The dog house should
be placed where it will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Be sure it is not placed so as to assist escape over the fence. Many
dogs, particularly larger ones, appreciate a flat roof (make sure it
has a slight slope for drainage) that they can lie on when the weather
is hot. Do not be surprised if your dog does not use the dog house.
If you place bedding in the dog house, be sure to clean it frequently,
otherwise pests such as fleas will take up residence.

2. Kennels

You may want to construct a kennel or a dog run for your dog. Use
concrete or pea gravel for the floor to improve drainage. Make sure
the run includes a roofed over area for shelter from the elements.
Clean out the pen daily to prevent worms and disease. Secure the
water supply so that the dog can't tip it over (try a galvanized
bucket with a double-ended hook to fasten it to the wall. If you use
chain link fencing, be sure to put runners through it if you will keep
a bitch in season in it to prevent mismating. The height should be
sufficient to prevent jumping or climbing; some breeds are better at
this than others. A reference to consult is:

Migliorini, Mario. _Kennel Building and Management_. New York, N.Y. :
Howell Book House, 1987.
Contains a bibliography. Useful tips on how to construct a dog run.

3. Restraints

Even if you keep your dog inside, you will want to restrain it from
certain areas of the house. A common way to do this is to use a
child-barrier. Pet stores and mail-order companies stock barriers
sturdy enough for bigger dogs. Examples of restraint might include:
keeping puppies in the kitchen or in areas where there is linoleum,
keeping young dogs in a specific room when going through the teething
stage, keeping your dog downstairs or in the basement, etc.

A common restraint used in dog shows is the x-pen. This is a
eight-sectioned, foldable heavy guage wire fence. The ends are
clipped together to form an approximate 4'X4' square area; or several
x-pens may be clipped together for a larger area. Do not leave a dog
alone in an x-pen; another person should always supervise a dog in an
x-pen. The exception is that this can be suitable to restrain a small
puppy with, especially if the x-pen is propped so that it cannot fall
over.

A crate is another restraint, this has already been described above.

4. Bedding

You should give your dog its own bed. Try folded up towels for young
puppies. There are a variety of beds for the fully grown dog -- try
any of them. Be careful with cedar-filled beds. There are reports
that cedar reacts with urine to produce poisonous fumes. You should
not let your dog sleep on the bed with you, instead insist that it
sleep on the floor next to the bed.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/new-dog
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



YOUR NEW DOG.

Prologue.
A. Why An Older Dog? What About Bonding?
B. Where Do I Find One?
C. How Do I Select A Suitable One?
D. What If I Already Have Other Dogs? Cats?
E. Acclimatizing Your Dog To A New Home.
F. Crate Training A Grown Dog.
G. Training Your Dog.
H. Neutering A Grown Dog.
I. Introducing New Things or Overcoming Dislikes

Prologue.

There is very little material out there to help people who have
adopted older, grown, "second-hand" dogs. Some shelters may have
handouts for their clients. Carol Lea Benjamin has written _Second
Hand Dogs_, which is the only book published to treat the topic
extensively (and even then it is a relatively small book). Other
books that are of use are: Job Michael Evans' _People, Pooches, and
Problems_, which will help you if you have some behavorial problems
with your new dog. Another of his books, _Evans' Guide to
Housetraining Dogs_ contains some sections on how to housetrain grown
dogs. There are undoubtedly bits and pieces elsewhere in other books.

A. Why A Grown Dog? What About Bonding?

Many people feel that an older, grown dog is better for them. Older
dogs don't require as much attention as a growing puppy does. They
are often easier to housetrain, if not already so trained. They are
past their chewing stage, and have settled down from the usual
adolescent boisterous behavior. Such a dog presents no surprises in
its final size and appearance. It may already have the traits they
want in a dog.

With an adult dog you have a much better idea of what you're going to
end up with. A puppy can have the genetic heritage to be aggressive,
a fear-biter etc. and you will not know until the dog is older. It's
also very easy to make mistakes raising a puppy. With an older dog,
the mistakes have already been made and it's generally not too hard to
tell which problems will be easily correctable.

So an older dog's previous history is actually an asset, not a
detriment. Quite often when a dog is put into a new situation, they
are looking for leadership and will attach to you almost immediately.
Even breeds known as "one-person" dogs will accept a new master rather
easily. For example, observe the relationship between a blind person
and a German Shepherd guide dog. These dogs have been through at
least 3 homes before they're matched with their blind people.

The research on bonding that is most often quoted (Clarence
Pfaffenberger's "New Knowledge of Dog Behavior") is almost always
misrepresented: i.e. the puppies in those studies were deprived of ALL
human contact until they were older; the research had nothing to do
with how well dogs that have bonded with some human or humans
transferred those bonds later on.

An additional benifit to adopting an older dog is the truely wonderful
feeling one gets when the dog comes out of its shell and bonds with
you. The bond feels special, particularly when it is an older dog
that no one wanted. The rescue and subsequent bond with that dog is
strong, lasting, and special. At least that is how I see it.

Older dogs are often not adopted from shelters because many people
want puppies. It is wonderful when one can come in and offer a good
life to the older dogs.

B. Where Do I Find One?

There are a good many places you can find a grown dog. Besides the
obvious, like shelters, there are other sources. For example, breed
rescue organizations have many suitable adult dogs. Breeders often
have dogs that they have retired from the show circuit and are not
breeding; they also have younger dogs that simply never fulfilled the
potential that they showed as a puppy and thus cannot be shown or
bred. Both are otherwise perfectly good dogs.

Sometimes people give up their dogs because of death or divorce or
other personal upheaval. Perhaps the dog was intended for work, but
was injured and rendered unfit. An adult dog in need of a home is not
necessarily an abused dog with an unknown background.

Ask local veterinarians. They often know of dogs that need adoption.

1. Shelters

Shelters, of course, are a very obvious place to get adult dogs, but
it can be hard to get an idea of the dog's true behavior and
potential. Some breeds, like Shelties, may absolutely shut down in a
shelter and will appear to have behavior problems when they really
don't. Find out how much time and about the physical space your local
shelter is prepared to give you for evaluating dogs--beware of
shelters that won't even let you take the dog out of the kennel run to
see it! If the shelter will let you take the dog out on a lead and
spend some time playing with it you can generally get a good idea of
the dog's potential. Count on spending some time working with the
shelter staff to find the right dog for you.

Keep in mind that many dogs are at the shelter because their owners
couldn't or wouldn't keep the committment they had made by getting the
dog in the first place, not that the dog was at fault. Reasons
include "not enough time for the dog," "moving to another place,"
"dogs not allowed where living," "divorce," and "not enough space."
Frequently dogs with behavior that the previous owners could not
handle are fine in new homes. As long as you scrutinize your
potential dog carefully AND you are prepared for the work of owning a
dog, you are not likely to wind up with a problem dog or a problem
situation.

About 25% of the dogs at shelters are purebred! If you have a
specific breed in mind, you can check your shelters regularly in case
one comes in. Keep in mind that even if the dog arrives at the
shelter with its papers, many shelters will withhold the papers since
they don't want to see people take such a dog and then breed it. You
might get its pedigree without the registration, but even that's
uncertain. Many shelters will take down your name and the breed you
are interested in and call you when one comes in.

If you don't care about the breed, you can check your local shelters
for a dog that you want. You *should* have some idea of what size and
coat type you prefer before going in.

2. Breed rescue

You can contact a local breed rescue organization. These
organizations will scout shelters for dogs of their breed, take them
in, evaluate them, and put the adoptable ones up for placement. They
can give you a good idea of the dog's temperament and known
background.

Most major breeds are represented in most major cities. You can
always contact AKC for the address of the national breed club which
you can in turn ask about local addresses.

3. Breeders

Or, you can contact local breeders and see if they have older dogs
that they are trying to place. Sometimes a puppy that is kept as a
show prospect does not fulfill it's earlier promise and is
subsequently placed. Sometimes a brood bitch or a stud dog is retired
and the breeder looks for a suitable home for it. Some breeders do
keep their older pets, but in many cases find that a loving home for
it is in the dog's best interests. Breeders too have dogs that are
returned to them for any number of reasons: dog turns out to not be
show-quality, people are moving and can't keep the dog

Go to dog shows and ask around, or contact a breed club (note: for
some clubs, referrals to "rescue" dogs are handled by one volunteer,
whereas the puppy referral service also handles dogs that were
returned to their breeder--so when contacting a breed club, make sure
you've made contact with all the appropriate people).

4. Other places

Vets and kennels sometimes have abandoned dogs they are happy to place
into good homes; call around.

People sometimes give away or sell dogs through the newspaper: ask
carefully about why the dog is being given up. Many people are not
very knowledgable about dog behavior and will not be aware of if
problems are the result of heredity or the result of their own
mishandling. There is an advantage here of being able to see how the
dog was kept and get an idea of relationship between previous owner
and the dog. Sometimes the family is moving, or has lost some income,
or there have been deaths or other upheavals where the dog's behavior
is not an issue. Do make sure you don't feel pressured into taking
the dog just because the person wants you to take it.

C. How Do I Select A Suitable One?

Regardless of where you get your dog, you should make some effort to
evaluate it before making your decision. Does it follow you? Watch
you warily? What happens if you sit down next to it? How does it
respond to a leash? A sudden noise or movement? What is known about
its background? How does its health seem? Is it lame? Offer it a
tidbit and see what its reaction is.

If this is a dog through a rescue organization, chances are that a
foster family has been taking care of it in the interim. Ask them to
tell you what they've learned about the dog. If you have children or
other pets, ask them how it would react to them.

If you're looking at an animal shelter, you should have the
opportunity to interact with the dog in a fenced-in enclosure rather
than simply staring at it through the bars of it's kennel. Many dogs
are extremely shy or upset in the kennel and it's difficult to tell
what they are like. Bring some tidbits and see how it does outside
the kennel. Walk it around on a leash if you can.

If you are getting a dog from a breeder, then you should be able to
find out about all its background. Do ask all the questions you have.

You can evaluate it's temperament *to some extent*. Remember that the
dog may be anxious or disoriented and thus not behave as it would
normally.

* Talk to it. What is it's reaction? Does it look up at you?
Ignore you? Cringe and move as far away from you as it can?

* Stand up and move near it. How does it react to you? Does it
come up and lick your hand? Crouch down with ears down, perhaps
urinating? Back away? Back away with ears down and snarling?

* Squat down, extend a hand and let it approach you (do not approach
it). Does it come up (perhaps after some hesitation) and lick or
sniff your hand? Does it move away?

* If you have children, bring them along. How does the dog react
to the sight of them? To them walking up to it? To them sitting
down and waiting for the dog to approach?

* If you want to know how it reacts to cats, ask for permission
to walk the dog past the cat part of the shelter. You might
be able to improvise something else if you're not at a shelter:
walking it around the neighborhood past some cats, for example.

* Bring along a friend of the opposite sex with you to determine
if the dog is averse to the other sex or not. Some dogs have
specific fears of men, for example, so it's best to check this
out especially if this will be a family dog.

* If you walk away from it, does it follow you? How does it
react to various things when you take it on a walk?

Dogs that are obviously uncertain in their temperament (snarling and
biting, etc.) are not generally up for adoption at shelters. Dogs
that tend to whine or urinate or crouch down are generally submissive
dogs (not a problem unless it's severe or not what you want). Dogs
that approach you, even cautiously, tend to be friendly. This is
obviously just a rough indication of the dog's temperament. Stay away
from dogs that seem to be *too* fearful unless you feel you know
enough about dealing with these dogs to help it overcome it's fear.
These dogs can turn into fear-biters.

Indications of friendliness: Ears relaxed or down. Tail *level* with
body, moderate to fast rate of waving. Approaches and sniffs.
Watches you but averts eyes if you look at it too long. Play bows
(front legs lay down but back legs are still standing).

Indications of submissiveness: Ears down. Eyes constantly averted.
Dribbles a little urine. Rolls over on back. Licks your chin or
anything near. Tail tucked between legs.

Indications of fearfulness: Ears down, eyes averted, tail tucked,
runs away from you. Shivers in corner [some breeds shiver anyway].
Cringes or yelps at sudden movements.

Indications of dominance/assertiveness: Ears erect or forward, tail up
high and wagging stiffly [spitz type breeds can be difficult to
ascertain between friendly wagging & assertive wagging]. Holds
ground, stares at you. These are not *necessarily* bad things. If
the dog eventually approaches you and is friendly, then it's likely a
reasonably self-confident, friendly dog. If it growls, then it's
probably more aggressive.

Indications of aggression: Growls at you with ears forward and a
stiff-legged stance, tail still. Watchful and alert.

Indications of a fear-biter: Growls or snaps at you, ears are folded
flat back, posture is crouching or submissive even though it is growling
or snapping.

Some dogs appear totally disinterested. They don't respond one way or
another to you. These dogs may be sick. They might be overstimulated
or exhausted. Or they might just be very independent dogs. Some dogs
are more independent and less overtly affectionate than others.

Plan on making *repeated* trips to whatever agency/person has the dog
for repeated evaluations. Let the dog dictate the speed at which you
progress through these steps. For very shy dogs, it may take a full
week of visits to progress to step three. If the agency/person that
has the dog will not allow you to remove the dog from its current
environment for an evaluation, look elsewhere for a potential dog. It
is important to get the dog away from its current environment as it
may be very shy and timid there, by association, but carefree and
wonderful when alone with you, like on a walk. The only way to tell
is to remove the dog from the environment. Stated another way, you
should eliminate the current environment the dog is in from any
potential problems you may see with the dog. You will be able to tell
by comparing its reactions in the original environment and when it
it outside of it.

The questions you ask during these steps are often a function of the
environment in which the dog will be placed should you decide to adopt
it. For example, if you have other dogs at home and the potential
adoptee is housed with other dogs and seems to get along well with
them, chances are better that you will be able to integrate the dog
into your home, as opposed to a dog that is agressive towards other
dogs.

Implicit in these steps is asking the agency/person that has the dog
for all information they have about the dogs background. Just a stray
they picked up? Was it an abused dog? How did it come to be where it
is? All of these things give you more information that can be used to
evaluate the dog's personallity and suitability for adoption.

When you evaluate the dog during these steps, look for any physicaly
ailments as well. Lameness, shortness of breath, lethargy, and so on.
Above all during these steps, evaluate the dog and how the dog reacts
to you. It is important for you to feel confident that this is a dog
that you can nurture and spend time with and enjoy, and that it will
enrich your life. Do not feel bad if you must reject a potential
adoptee. This is part of the adoption process, and it is important
for you both to get off on the right foot.

If you decide to adopt the dog, you should always take it directly to
the vet before you even take it home. If there is something seriously
wrong with the dog, you want to find out before you've had the dog
long enough to form an attachment to it.

E. What If I Already Have Other Dogs? Cats?

Select a dog that is, to the best of your knowledge, accustomed to
other dogs (i.e., one that is socialized with other dogs). Also, pick
the opposite sex dog than the one you currently have, if possible.
Hopefully, you know your current dog well enough to know how well it
gets along with other dogs. If it is a naturally submissive dog when
around other dogs, it probably does not matter too much whether the
adoptee tends toward submissive or dominant (but not TOO dominant).
However, if your current dog is a dominant dog, a dog that has been
around you for a long time, or a male dog (generally speaking), your
best bet is a dog that tends towards the submissive and is *smaller*
than your current dog (like a small, quiet, female). Size is can be
important as your established dog may feel threatened by a newcomer
that is larger than he or she.

Introduce your established dog and the new addition in a neutral
place, like a park or a home that is new to both animals. Both dogs
should be on a leash. If your current dog is obediance trained, a
down/stay is in order. Allow them to sniff one another and encourage
play, discourage agression. Should your adoptee show agression,
forcibly place the dog in a submissive posture and hold it there (as
in an alpha roll). Then allow your established dog to come and sniff
the new dog. What this does is diffuse a potentially violent
situation by forcing the new dog to be submissive to your established
dog. The new dog learns to trust the established dog by realizing
that the established dog is not going to eat him, and your established
dog learns that the new dog is submissive to him. This fosters trust
amongst the two animals. This may not be necessary, but sometimes it
is. By all means, if the dogs want to play, LET THEM. In fact,
encourage them, and don't interfere unless you feel you must.

At home, the first thing you must do is establish a spot for each dog
that is physically separated from each other. Kennels, crates, or
even different rooms. Never, never, never feed the dogs together.
ALWAYS feed the dogs simultaneously in these physically seperated
areas (if in different rooms, close the doors while the dogs eat). If
you must free-feed, the dogs should be placed in their respective
areas for the entire time each one's food is down. Also use these
areas for "time-outs" when the dogs are misbehaving.

The second thing that is required is that you must be sure to spend
quality time with your established dog, and just with him. You may
even need to increase the frequency of normal activities you would do
with your established dog. This helps keep your established dog from
feeling misplaced by the newcomer.

Finally, be sure and do activities with both dogs. This encourages
the dogs to do fun things together, as well as fostering pack cohesion
and communication .

Remember, the general rule of thumb is to make sure that both dogs
realize you are alpha. They will need to work out their own hierarchy
among themselves, but they must understand that you are on top and you
are in charge.

With cats, you should make one room be cat accessible only. The
easiest way to do this is to put up a barrier in the doorway. As long
as your dog does not want to kill the cat(s), they will eventually
adjust. Make it very clear to your dog that it is not to chase cats
-- correct it for even looking at the cat -- and things should work
out. Keep in mind that cats can take up to six months to adjust to a
new dog, even a friendly one. Patience.

F. Acclimatizing Your Dog To A New Home.

The first thing you should do is take your dog out to the yard where
you expect it to eliminate. If possible, get the dog to eliminate
there. If not, take it inside and give it some water. Tour your
house and go back outside again. It should eliminate this time.

Take care to enter through doors before the dog does. When you feed
it, be sure you've already had your food, or eat some tidbit first.
You want to tell your dog, without fanfare or histrionics, that you're
in charge here. This puts many dogs at ease since they won't have to
wonder who the alpha is.

The dog should sleep in the same room with you, but not on the bed.
You should either use a crate, or a sleeping pad/towel, or tie it to a
bed post, although the crate is best.

Try and get into a predictable routine as soon as possible. Dogs
prefer a routine, and you will help your new dog settle in more
quickly by adhering to some routine. Examples: feeding at the same
times, walking at the same time, going to work and returning at the
same times.

Start right away with expected behaviors. If you don't want the dog
on the furniture, then don't let it on them from day one. Don't fall
into the common trap of thinking that the dog is moping and should be
given more leeway initially. If you expect good behavior
matter-of-factly from the beginning, you'll have less trouble in the
long run.

If the dog appears to be moping, leave it be but stay nearby. Don't
let it mope too long -- distract it with a walk or a bit of playing.

G. Crate Training An Older Dog.

You should take some effort to crate train your new dog, if it is not
already so trained. There are several benefits: if you have to
housetrain it, a crate is most helpful; a crate gives your dog a place
of its own which helps the adjustment period; and it gives you a means
to train it toward being left in your house all day.

Before a dog is locked into a crate, the dog must be as comfortable
with it as possible. If a dog is put into a crate while it is afraid
of the crate, the dog's fear may build while inside and the resulting
trauma may be impossible to overcome.

To make a dog comfortable, the dog must first learn not to fear it,
and then to like it. To alleviate fear, the following things can be
tried.

* Put treats or food into the crate for the dog. Start near the
mouth of the crate, and then move the treats farther inside each
time.
* Leave the door off the crate or tie it back at first. The door
can swing shut on the dog while the dog's head is in the crate,
startling the dog with the contact and the strange sound.
* Possibly get the dog used to part of the crate. For instance,
take the top half of the crate off and use all these tricks to get
the dog used to that alone, then repeat the process with the whole
crate.
* If the crate is big enough, get in yourself. (seriously!)
* Get the dog excited about a toy and throw it in the crate for the
dog to chase.
* Think of the crate as a good thing yourself. Dogs are good at
reading their master's attitudes. Never (ever) use the crate as a
punishment.
* Once the dog will go into the crate, feed the dog its meals in the
crate.
* If the dog seems particularly averse to the crate, try a different
type of crate (eg, instead of a wire mesh, try the plastic kind
or vice-versa).

Once the dog is unafraid of the crate, put the dog inside and close
the door. Immediately lavish the dog with praise and food for a short
time, then let the dog out. Do not, at this time, leave the dog alone
in the crate, or the dog will associate the crate with your leaving.
Also, before the dog is fully acclimated, it may grow panicky if left
in the crate long.

Finally, put the dog inside for progressively longer periods of time,
always praising the dog as it goes in, and perhaps giving treats.

H. Training Your Dog.

1. Obedience

The old adage that you "can't teach an old dog new tricks" is patently
false. Your dog may in fact be easier to teach than a young puppy
since the attention span will be better.

You should definitely look up obedience training in your area and
enroll yourselves. You will probably both enjoy yourselves quite a
bit, and it's a good way to build a strong relationship with your new
dog.

In addition, it is important to get the dog into obedience not just to
teach the dog good maners, but to get the dog socialized for other dog
and people. Plus, it will give the dog something to do, which is
often very benificial with older adopted dogs.

2. Housetraining

Sometimes dogs have trouble with housetraining when they are first
placed. There are a number of reasons: they may never have been
properly taught. Many dogs wind up in the shelter because their
owners didn't know how to teach dogs correct elimination habits.
Perhaps they have spent much of their lives outside or in kennels.
Such dogs may not understand that elimination is reserved for outside.

You should train these dogs exactly like you would a puppy, with the
big difference that they will catch on much more quickly, being adult
and having a full set of bladder muscles. Confine them to a crate or
otherwise watch them; take them outside regularly to eliminate. You
might try using a phrase such as "Do it" or "Go potty" -- especially
if your dog is a retired show dog, it may already understand this.
Patience is your best ally -- keep your dog's schedule consistent
until you're sure it understands where you expect it to go.

*Don't* punish a dog for going inside. You will get much better
results much more quickly if you anticipate its needs and have it go
outside, to your praise, each time. In fact, it is generally your
fault if the dog eliminated inside rather than yours.

You should note that some aggressive male dogs may mark your
entire house in an attempt to claim the house as his territory.
You should first get him neutered, and then, since such aggression
is likely to be a problem in other areas (such as growling when
you approach his food), you should consult a book such as
Evans' _People, Pooches, and Problems_.

Some dogs urinate submissively. If it is lying down, even on its
back, when it urinates, this is *not* a housetraining problem. This
dog needs work to raise its self-esteem. For now, avoid the problem
by toning down your approach to the dog. If it is urinating
submissively when you come home, make your arrival much less exciting.
Don't look at it for a few minutes, then just talk to it. Finally,
scratch it a bit on its chest (petting it on the head is very
dominant). Avoid bending at the waist over your dog. Squat instead.

In the long term, to deal with the problem of a too submissive dog,
you will have to teach it confidence and help it build up self esteem.
A good way to to do this is to some obedience training, though take
care to use motivational methods with little or no corrections (try
_Communicating with your Dog_ by Ted Baer for some good hints). Be
unstinting in your approval when the dog does something right.

I. Neutering An Older Dog.

Many people wonder if getting an older dog (of either sex) neutered
poses a problem for the dog. The answer is that it doesn't. Your
male dog will adjust easily to being neutered -- in fact he may well
behave as if he had never been neutered. The most likely change in
behavior is reduced aggression toward other male dogs. Your bitch
will not have any problems with being neutered either. Unfortunately,
she may not derive the health benefits of early neutering if she has
already had more than two estrus periods or is over two years of age
before being spayed. This means that you should be sure your vet
checks her for mammary cancers at each checkup even though she is
spayed.

As a general rule, ALL rescued dogs should be neutered. There are
some special circumstances, such as rescuing a dog of a known breeding
and returning it to its breeder, but these are extremely rare
ocassions and not likely to happen to the average dog-adopter.
Neutering an older dog of either sex will not hurt it at all.

I. Introducing New Things or Overcoming Dislikes

Your new dog may never have been, or actively dislike being, bathed,
groomed, nail-clipped. You will have to proceed slowly and with patience.
Take baby steps. Your dog hates being brushed? Start out with a
warm wet washcloth and rub in short lick-like strokes until the dog
relaxes, then stop. Repeat this and eventually introduce a short
bit of brushing, until the dog relaxes (always end on a positive note).
Eventually the dog will accept being brushed. You can do the same
technique with almost anything else. With clipping nails, first start
with the goal of getting the dog to accept your handling of it's paws.
Then accustom it to having its toes massaged & handled. Then to having
its nails flexed and handled. In the meantime, carry around the clippers
so that the dog learns to ignore them. When you actually start to clip
the nails, clip off a teeny piece off of ONE NAIL and put the clippers
away. Later on, do another nail. When the dog accepts this quietly,
do TWO nails, and so on.

If you find out that your dog is afraid of something, remove it from
its environment, intially. Plan out how you want to deal with it,
what steps and increments you want to take. Then slowly work on it.
Work on one thing at a time to reduce stress on your dog. By doing it
this way, you will build up the dog's self confidence and trust in
you.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/new-puppy
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



YOUR NEW PUPPY

Prologue.
A. Age to Separate from Litter.
B. Puppy-Proofing Your Home.
C. Puppies and Small Children.
D. Acclimatization and Socialization.
E. Don't Be Surprised When...
F. Reinforcing Good Behavior.
G. Crying at Night.
H. Health: Vaccinations and Worms.
I. Teething.
J. Feeding Your Puppy.
K. Housetraining.
O. Preliminary Training.

Prologue.

A quick critical information list:

* Never hit a young puppy.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Be consistent with your dog, rather than harsh.
* Don't allow biting, but only correct after 14 weeks (yelp and
replace hand with toy before that)
* Never correct a dog after the fact.
* Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places,
when very young to get socialized.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity
so they can develop confidence.
* Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it
purpose, and make it tolerable.
* Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you
are not above your dog, you will be below it.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Dominance over a dog is achieved with leadership, never
harshness.

Some books that may help:

Benjamin, Carol Lea. _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.

"No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
becomes, she never denies him his nourishment. He never goes to bed
without his supper. Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."

She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.
Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on
establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._. Ballantine Books. 1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress
that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
more formal training goes much easier.

Monks of New Skete, The. _The Art of Raising a Puppy_. Little, Brown
and Company (1991). ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
the appropriate stages and why. First they follow a newborn litter
through its various stages of development and at each stage they
discuss what is happening. They discuss testing puppies'
temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
circumstances. They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
reputable breeders. They then launch into a series of useful
chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
care. A good bibliography is provided at the back.

Randolph, Elizabeth. _How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog_. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.

The April 1993 edition of Dog Fancy is a "puppy primer" and it
contains articles on how to choose a breeder, name your puppy, make
housetraining easy, introduce grooming and solve basic puppy problems.
It works well in conjuction with the Monk and Benjamin books.

A. Age to Separate from Litter.

Puppies should not be separated from their mother and littermates
before 8 weeks of age. Many recommend 10 weeks minimum. This is
related to physical considerations such as weaning and psychological
considerations such as the puppy's readiness to leave the litter.

Many breeders believe it is best to NOT have two puppies together.
They tend to bond to each other and not to you and that can cause
serious problems when it comes time to train them. Having two puppies
needing housetraining at the same time can make that process go on for
much longer. This implies that you would not introduce a second dog
before the other six months old and properly trained.

There are always exceptions, of course, and there are many happy dogs
dogs that were littermates or otherwise puppies together out there.

B. Puppy-Proofing Your Home

You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew
whatever they can get at in your absence. You must put the puppy
where either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the
possible damage. Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture,
chew on carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things. Besides
the destruction, the puppy may well injure itself, even seriously.

A good solution to this is a crate. A crate is any container, made of
wire mesh or plastic, that will hold the puppy comfortably, with
enough room to stand and curl up and sleep, but not too much that it
can eliminate in one corner. See the section on crates below. Other
solutions include fencing off part of the house, say the kitchen or
garage or building an outside run. Be sure the area is puppy-proofed.

Please put your pup in an environment it can't destroy. Puppies are
too immature to handle temptations. Depending on the breed, most dogs
begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild
temptations when they're about 6 months old. Consider the analogy
with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are
not holding it.

It is essential to puppy-proof your home. You should think of it in
the same way as child-proofing your house but be more through about
it. Puppies are smaller and more active than babies and have sharp
teeth and claws. Things of especial concern are electric wires. If
you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a
shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job! When puppy
proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if
possible) and consider things from this angle. What looks enticing,
what is breakable, what is sharp, etc. The most important things are
watching the puppy and, of course, crating it or otherwise restraining
it when you can't watch it.

Another step in puppy proofing is house proofing the puppy. Teach it
what is and isn't chewable. The single most effective way to do this
is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand. When the puppy
starts to chew on an unacceptable item (be it a chair, rug, or human
hand), remove the item from the puppy's mouth with a stern, "NO!" and
replace it with a chew toy and praise the puppy for playing with the
toy. If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea
that only the things you give it are to be chewed on! Don't stint on
the praise, and keep the "No!" to a single calm, sharp noise -- don't
yell or scream the word.

There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus
aid in your training. Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange (available at
most pet stores) impart a bitter taste to many things without
staining, etc. You should not *depend* on these products to keep your
puppy safe, but *use* them as a training aid.

C. Puppies and Small Children.

Keep puppies and very small children apart or under close supervision.
Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of
puppies' eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails,
among other problems. So keep children 6 years or so and younger away
from the puppy until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy.

Teach your children how to approach a puppy or dog, to prevent being
jumped on. They should understand that they should put out their
hands below the pup's chin, to keep it from jumping at a hand above
its head. They should not scream or run away, as the puppy will then
chase the child.

D. Acclimatization and Socialization.

Accustom your puppy to many things at a young age. Baths, brushing,
clipping nails, cleaning ears, having teeth examined, and so on.
Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for
your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its
life.

For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put
its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it
with your fingers. Do this every evening until the dog stops fussing
about it. Continue to do it and you'll always know if your dog's ears
are okay.

Brushing is important, especially for double coated breeds when they
begin to shed. A little effort now to get your puppy to enjoy
brushing will save you a lot of trouble later when it begins to shed
and shed and shed...

During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be
exposed to a variety of social situations. After the puppy has had
all its shots, carefully expose it to the outside world. Take it to
different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different
neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you
can think of that would be different for a little puppy. If the puppy
seems afraid, then let it explore by itself. Encourage the puppy, but
be firm, not coaxing. If you want to take the pup in an elevator, let
it try it on its own, but firmly insist that it have the experience.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a
good place; dog shows are another. You want the pup to learn about
the world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it
is an adult. You also want it to learn that you will not ask it to do
anything dangerous or harmful. Socializing your dog can be much fun
for you and the dog!

Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs
exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers. DO NOT "soothe"
them, or say things like "easy, boy/girl," "it's OK..." This serves
as REINFORCEMENT and ENCOURAGES the fear or growling! Instead, say
"no!" sharply and praise it WHEN IT STOPS. Praise it even more when
it allows its head to be petted. If it starts growling or backing up
again, say "no!" Be a little more gentle with the "no" if the dog
exhibits fear, but do be firm. With a growling dog, be much more
emphatic and stern with your "no!"

If you are planning to attend a puppy class (and you should, they are
not expensive) ask the instructor about her/his views before you sign
up. If socialization is not part of the class, look elsewhere.

The _Art of Raising a Puppy_ has many valuable tips and interesting
points on the subject of socializing puppies.

E. Don't Be Surprised When...

Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to
the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom. Many puppies do
not begin this behavior until they are four or five months old.

Your puppy does not seem to pick its name up quickly. Sometimes it
takes several weeks before you consistently get a reaction when you
say its name. (Be careful not to use its name in a negative sense!
Clap or shout instead.)

Your puppy does not seem to be particularly happy with verbal praise.
You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months
before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise.

Your puppy falls asleep in the middle of some other activity. Puppies
need lots of sleep but since they are easily distracted, they
sometimes forget to go to sleep and so will fall asleep at bizarre
times: while eating, chewing, or even running.

Your puppy twitches while sleeping. This indicates healthy neural
development. Twitching will be most pronounced for the first few
months of the puppy's life, and slowly diminish thereafter. There are
many adult dogs that continue some twitching. Expect muffled woofs
and snuffling noises, too.

Your puppy hiccups. Many puppies hiccup. The only thing to do is
wait for them to pass. Don't worry about it, they will outgrow it.

F. Reinforcing Good Behavior.

Puppies want attention. They will do a lot to get that attention --
*even if it is negative*! Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing
things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good,
you are reinforcing the wrong things. Ignore the bad things (or stop
it without yelling or scolding) and enthusiastically praise it when
its doing what you want, even if it's as simple as sitting and looking
at you, or quietly chewing one of its toys. This can be difficult to
do, as it is essentially inverting all your normal reactions. But
it is very important: you will wind up with a puppy that pays
attention to you and is happy to do what you want, if it understands
you.

G. Crying at Night.

Your puppy wants to be with the rest of the "pack" at bedtime. This
behavior is highly adaptive from the standpoint of dog behavior. When
a puppy becomes separated from its pack it will whine, thereby
allowing it to be found and returned to the rest of the group. This
is why so many books on puppies and dog behavior strongly recommend
that you allow your puppy/dog to sleep with you in your room.

Try moving the crate into your bedroom. If your puppy whines, first
make sure it doesn't have to go outside to eliminate. This means
getting up and taking it outside. If it whines again, or doesn't
need to go outside, bang your hand on the crate door and say something
like "NO, SLEEP" or "NO, QUIET". If the puppy continues to whine, try
giving it a toy or chew toy and then simply ignore any continued
whining. If you don't reinforce the whining by comforting it (other
than to take it outside -- which is OK), it will eventually learn to
settle down. Also, be sure to have a vigorous play session JUST
BEFORE you are going to go to bed. This should poop it out and it
will sleep much more soundly.

Alternatively, you can designate a spot for your puppy on the bedroom
floor. Keep the door closed or put a leash on it to keep it close to
the bed. When it whines or moves about, take it out to eliminate.
Otherwise, as above, say "NO, SLEEP."

Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be
comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the
laundry.

H. Health: Vaccinations and Worms.

Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum
contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch was
properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place).
Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens
(passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are
very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so
important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical
time). After the colostrum ceases (a day or so later), the maternal
antigens decline steadily.

During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity
because the passive immunity gets in the way. As the passive immunity
gradually declines, the pup's immune system takes over. At this time,
the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can
build up their own antibodies against them. However, there is no way
to tell when passive immunity is gone. This is why pups should be
given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at
LEAST three shots).

Picture a plot of antibody level versus time. Maternal antibody is
steadily declining. You just don't know the rate. At some level, say
X, protection from parvo is sufficient. Below X, protection may be
less than effective against an infection. In general, vaccine antigen
cannot stimulate the puppy's own immune system until the maternal
antibody level is *below* X. Let's say it is .7*X. Here's the rub.
The antibody level spends some time dropping from X to .7X. During
this time, even if you vaccinated every day, you would (in this
theoretical discussion) not be able to stimulate immunity. Yet you
are below that level of maternal protection at which infection can be
effectively fought off.

Thus the importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week
intervals until around 16-18 weeks. One maximizes the chance of
catching the puppy's immune system as soon as it is ready to respond,
minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to
infection.

IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4
months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of
the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!).

Up until 8 weeks or so, the shots should consist of Distemper,
Measles, and CPI. After that, it should be DHLPP (Distemper,
Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus). This is at
minimum: you may need to add other vaccinations appropriate to your
area, such as Lyme, Heartworm (actually a preventive medicine), Rabies
(most places), and so on.

You should keep your puppy away from all strange dogs. If you know
that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying
disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize. The same holds
true for people. Ask them to wash their hands before they play with
your puppy. It can't hurt and it could save you a great deal of
grief. As your puppy gets its shots, you can slowly add more and more
exposure to its life. But keep in mind this is an infant and needs
gentle care!

Worms can present a serious problem to puppy health. There is no good
way to prevent puppies from having worms, for a variety of reasons.
You should take your puppy in regularly for worm-testing. Worms can
interfere with the puppy's growth if left unchecked. Since it is very
common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the
dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked
regularly when young.

I. Teething.

Around 4 to 5 months of age, puppies will start to get their permanent
teeth. There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and
control the chewing.

* Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself)
ice cubes and give them to the puppy.
* Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it
(rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on.
* Soften the kibble a bit with water.
* Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.

Puppies lose their teeth in a distinct pattern: first the small front
teeth come out. Then the premolars just behind the canines. Then the
molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those
erupting as well). Finally the canine teeth come out. Sometimes the
adult canines erupt before the baby canines have come all the way out.

During this time, some discomfort, including bleeding gums is to be
expected. Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of
time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions
above). You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy
loses, as puppies typically swallow them.

J. Feeding Your Puppy.

Premium pet food tends to have higher nutritional value. In
particular, foods such as Science Diet, Eukanuba, Nature's Recipe.
This means you can generally feed your dog a smaller amount of food.
Also, they tend to be highly digestible which means that there is less
waste to clean up in the yard. For these two reasons, many people
feed their pets premium foods over grocery store foods. But the
decision is yours and many healthy, happy dogs have been raised on
plain Purina Dog Chow.

1. Feeding schedules

There are two methods you can use to feed your puppy: free feeding and
scheduled feeding. Free feeding is when dry food is left out all day
and the dog eats as it wishes. Scheduled feeding gives the dog food
at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of
time, such as a half hour. In most cases, you are best off feeding
your puppy on a schedule. This better controls elimination when
trying to housetrain. In addition, many dogs will overeat and become
overweight on a free-feed schedule. But for other dogs, such as dogs
with gastric problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be
better for them. If you are unsure, you may want to discuss your
particular situation with your vet.

2. Dog food formulations

Read your labels, know your dog food products. There
are different kinds of dog food out there. Some are formulated
very precisely for different periods in a dog's life, and what
is appropriate at one stage is not appropriate at another. Others
are generically formulated and are supposed to be OK for any dog
under any conditions. This means that they are formulated up to
the growing puppy level. There is nothing wrong with either approach,
unless the generically formulated dog food comes out with a "puppy
food" version. These are packed even higher with extra nutrition, etc,
than the puppy really needs, since the original formulation was already
sufficient for the puppy.

If you are using the latter type of puppy food, many veterinarians and
breeders (particularly of larger breeds) recommend that you NOT feed
it for the first year as is recommended on the bags of food. They
recommend that you feed puppy food ONLY for the first two months that
you have the puppy at home and then switch to adult food. A good
"rule of thumb" is to switch to adult food when the puppy has attained
90% of its growth (exactly when this is reached varies by breed and
size). The nutritional formulation (especially the extra protein and
calcium) can actually cause problems in puppy development. The
problem tends to be with growth of bones vs. growth of tendons,
ligaments, and muscle. The growth rates are not the same and so the
connections are strained and if the dog jumps wrong or is playing too
hard, the connections can be torn. This typically happens in the
front shoulder and requires surgery and several months of confinement
to repair. The added calcium in puppy food may deposit on puppies'
bones causing limping.

This is not a problem with the more closely formulated foods that have
adult foods that are specifically labelled as unsuitable for puppies
or lactating bitches.

K. Housetraining.

The idea is to take advantage of a rule of dog behavior: a dog will
not generally eliminate where it sleeps. Exceptions to this rule are:

* Dogs that are in crates that are too large (so the dog can
eliminate at one end and sleep at the other end).
* Dogs that have lived in small cages in pet stores during critical
phases of development and have had to learn to eliminate in the
cage.
* Dogs that have blankets or other soft, absorbent items in the
crate with them.
* Dogs that are left for too long in the crate and cannot hold it
any longer.

If the crate is too big (because you got an adult size one), you can
partition the crate off with pegboard wired to the sides to make the
crate the correct size, and move it back as your puppy grows. RC
Steele also sells crate dividers.

To house train a dog using a crate, establish a schedule where the dog
is either outside or in its crate when it feels the need to eliminate.

Using a mild correction when the dog eliminates inside and exuberant,
wild praise when the dog eliminates outside will eventually teach the
dog that it is better to go outside than in. Some owners correct more
severely inside, but this is extremely detrimental to the character of
puppies. To make the dog notice the difference between eliminating
inside and outside, you must praise more outside rather than
correcting more inside.

The crate is crucial because the dog will "hold it" while in the
crate, so it is likely to have to eliminate when it is taken out.
Since you know when you dog has to eliminate, you take it out and it
eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately. Doing this
consistently is ideal reinforcement for the behavior of going out to
eliminate. In addition, the dog is always supervised in the house, so
the dog is always corrected for eliminating indoors. This strengthens
the inhibition against eliminating inside.

In general, consistency is MUCH more important than severe corrections
when training a dog. Before a dog understands what you want, severe
corrections are not useful and can be quite DETRIMENTAL. Crating
allows the owner to have total control over the dog in order to
achieve consistency. Hopefully, this will prevent the need (and the
desire) to use more severe corrections.

Housetraining is relatively simple with puppies. The most important
thing to understand is that it takes time. Young puppies cannot wait
to go to the bathroom. When they have to go, they have to go NOW.
Therefore, until they are about four months old, you can only
encourage good behavior and try to prevent bad behavior. This is
accomplished by the following regime.

* First rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
immediately upon waking up.

* Second rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
immediately after eating.

With these two rules goes the indisputable fact that until a puppy is
housetrained, you MUST confine them or watch them to prevent accidents.

This means that the puppy should have a place to sleep where it cannot
get out. Understand that a puppy cannot go all night without
eliminating, so when it cries in the night, you must get up and take
it out and wait until it goes. Then enthusiastically praise it and
put it back to bed. In the morning, take it out again and let it do
its stuff and praise it. After it is fed and after it wakes up at any
point, take it out to eliminate.

Make it aware that this is not play time, but understand that puppies
get pretty excited about things like grass and snails and leaves and
forget what they came outside to do! Use the same spot each time if
you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do,
especially after 12 weeks of age.

To make life easier for you later on, use a key phrase just when the
puppy starts to eliminate. Try "hurry up," "do it," or some similar
phrase (pick one and use it). The puppy will begin to eliminate on
command, and this can be especially useful later, such as making sure
the dog eliminates before a car ride or a walk in the park.

Don't let the puppy loose in the house unless it has just gone
outside, and/or you are watching it extremely closely for signs that
it has to go. The key to housetraining is preventing accidents. If
no accidents occur (ha!), then the dog never learns it has an option
other than going outside.

For an idea of what this can involve, here is a hypothetical
situation, assuming that you work and it takes you about 1/2 hour to
get home from work:

03:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
07:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom
07:15 Feed dog in crate, leave dog in crate
08:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
08:15 Owner goes to work
11:30 Owner returns, lets dog out
11:45 return dog to crate, owner returns to work
17:00 Owner returns, lets dog out, go to bathroom, play
19:00 Feed dog in crate, leave in crate
19:45 Let dog out, go to bathroom, play
23:00 Let dog out, put dog in crate, go to bed.

For a comprehensive discussion on housetraining dogs, see

Evans, Job Michael. _The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog_.
ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years. He discusses all
aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many
constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems.

Benjamin's _Mother Knows Best_ discusses paper training in more
detail than is covered here.

O. Preliminary Training.

It is essential for every dog, no matter how big, or small, or whether
you want to show, or work, or just play with, to have basic obedience
training. If you want to go beyond the basics, that's great. But at
least do the basics. One way to think of it is that without basic
obedience, you and the dog don't speak the same language so how can
you communicate? But with basic obedience, you can tell the dog what
you want it to do and it will understand you and do it. Another way
to think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't
jump on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors --
because it knows what you expect of it.

1. Obedience classes

Find a good class and attend it. Many places have puppy kindergarten
classes; this also helps socialize your puppy. Do 10 minute training
sessions every day. And if you like it, keep going. You'd be amazed
at all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog
learn the basics! Training is fun and simple if approached that way.
Enjoy it!

2. Around the house

Puppies can be started far earlier than many people believe. In fact,
waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY
late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems. Start right away
with basic behavior: use simple, sharp "no's" to discourage chewing
hands or fingers, jumping on people, and many other behaviors that are
cute in puppies but annoying when full grown. Don't be severe about
it, and praise the puppy *immediately* when it stops. Tie the puppy
down in sight of people eating dinner to prevent begging and nosing
for food (if you put it in another room, it will feel ostracized and
begin to cry). If your puppy bites and scratches you when playing,
give it a toy instead. Give a good, loud *yelp* or *ouch* when the
puppy bites you. This is how the other puppies in the litter let each
other know when they have crossed the line, and it is a good way to
get the puppy's attention and let it know that biting is not
acceptable.

The other side of the coin is *immediate* praise when your puppy stops
after a "no". You may feel like this is engaging in wild mood swings
(and you may well get odd looks from other people); that's all right.
You're making your wishes crystal clear to the puppy. It also needs
positive as well as negative reinforcement: how would you respond if
people only ever yelled at you when you did something wrong?

Introduce things in a fun way without "corrections" just to lay a
foundation for formal training later on. *Formal training*, demanding
or exact, is not appropriate at this stage. Instead, concentrate on
general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will
be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things,
such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not
making it heel!). In sum, lay a good foundation for its future
development and behavior.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/behavior
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



BEHAVIOR: UNDERSTANDING AND MODIFYING

Prologue.
A. Understanding Your Dog.
B. Principles Behind Dominance.
C. Dominance Problems.
D. Aggression with other Dogs.
E. Housetraining Problems.
F. Submissive Urination.
G. Other Common Problems.

Prologue.

First, you should understand that there are two components to
"training". There is the kind of training that solves *behavioral*
problems. There is also the kind of training that creates a
command-response pattern. It is perfectly possible to have a dog that
heels, sits, and stays perfectly and digs out all your marigolds.
Conversely, you may have a dog that does not destroy things in your
house but does not sit or heel. "Obedience training" does not
necessarily cover both of these aspects of training. In fact, they
usually just teach a command-response pattern and that's it. You need
to be aware of whether your dog needs behavior modification (where you
will have to find out the underlying reason why your dog digs and not
just put chicken wire over everything) or obedience training to
understand commands. Certainly, the two may be related: a dog that
digs because it is bored may become less bored with obedience training
and stop digging. It is important, however, to understand that the
dog stopped digging because it was no longer bored than because it now
knows how to heel. You will need to modify your approach, or select a
trainer to help you, with behavior vs. training in mind.

While this article tries to help you understand what the sources of
trouble between you and your dog may be, I want to stress that there
is absolutely no replacement for a trainer you know and trust to help
you and your dog. Having someone to ask questions and show you what
works with your dog is like having the picture as opposed to the words
-- a thousand times better. Nevertheless, this article will hopefully
help with some common problems.

That said, some good books that are aimed at helping solve problems
between dogs and owners are:

Benjamin, Carol Lea. _Dog Problems_. Doubleday and Co. 1981. ISBN
0-385-15710-X. $13.95 hardcover.

Evans, Job Michael. (1991). People, Pooches, & Problems. NY:
Howell Book House. ISBN 0-87605-783-0 (hardcover). $19.95.
Excellent suggestions for dealing with common problems between dogs
and their owners. Highly recommended. [Evans is a former New Skete
monk.]

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate

training, housebreaking, and so forth.

Monks of New Skete, The. _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Little,
Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent,
well written classic.

Tucker, Michael. _Solving your Dog Problems_. J.M. Dent Pty Ltd,
Australia. ISBN: 0-8677-0053-X.
It is really funny, and it really makes you think about the messages
that you give your dog. Recommended for anyone who instructs in
obedience or who is trying to train their dog to be obedient, or
just easier to live with.
pup as you can; this is one of your responsibilities as a dog owner.

A. Understanding Your Dog.

1. "Why would my dog be happier inside than outside when I am not home?"

Many dogs behave well when kept inside; bark, dig, and whine while
kept out in the yard. Why is this? Well, you must understand the
nature of dogs as social animals, living in social units called
"packs." That means that your dog views you and your family and any
other pets as its pack. Your home is the "den." Dogs prefer to be
closer to the center of the den -- the place where the pack's smells
are most acute. While some dogs are happy to stay outdoors during the
day while the rest of the pack is gone to work, a great many dogs
develop behavioral problems as a result of daily "expulsion" from the
den.

In addition, a dog with access to a large territory may feel compelled
to "defend" all of it, resulting in other types of problems: frantic
barking at "intruders," and so on. Restricting the amount of
territory it has to protect may reduce this type of behavior.

2. "Shouldn't dogs run free in the countryside?"

It is an absolute myth that living in the country confers greater
latitude in the dictum "thou shall keep thy dog constrained to the
immediate environs of the pack." Country dogs allowed to run free get
shot by hunters, into fights with other dogs over territoriality
issues. They can kill livestock, fight and tassle and get disease
from wild animals, and be hit by cars on the highway. They become
increasingly aggressive as they vie for larger and larger perimeter
boundaries to their territory, and they no longer relate to YOU as the
leader of their pack. Also, don't forget that intact animals will
breed and add to the overpopulation problem.

3. "Why do dogs engage in undesirable behavior?"

When dogs start undesirable (to humans) behavior, its best to try to
understand the source of this behavior. Often it stems from the
frustration of being left alone. Dogs are very social animals. One
positive solution is to make sure your dog is properly exercised.
Exercise is a wonderful cure to many behavioral problems and dogs just
love it. Do check with your vet for the proper amount of exercise for
both the age and breed of any dog. Another solution is obedience
training. The point is, your dog needs your attention, whether it is
by taking it out on a walk, training it, or both.

When bad behaviors begin in your absence, they can just get worse and
worse every day if not addressed or prevented. Puppies (up to 18
months or so) get very bored when they are left alone. Even catching
it in the act may not help, at least at this point. Often this is a
problem with separation anxiety. Try to spend as much time with your

4. "But it is SO FRUSTRATING when my dog does this!!"

Yes, it is. But screaming and yelling at the dog, or punishing it
well after the fact does not tell your dog what is wrong. You may in
fact wind up teaching it to fear you, or consider you unreliable. You
must get your dog to understand you, and *you* have to work on the
communication gap, as you are more intelligent than your dog.

Preventing your dog from unwanted behaviors coupled with *properly
timed* corrections will go much further in eliminating the behavior
from your pet than yelling at it.

In fact, you should not yell at, scream at, or hit your dog, ever.
There are much more effective ways to get your point across. Try
instead to understand the situation from your dog's point of view and
act accordingly. The techniques in this chapter approach problems
with this in mind.

5. "Why does crating work?"

First of all, it prevents the dog from doing many of the behaviors you
don't want it to. What it does not do, it does not develop a habit of
doing and does not need to be corrected for it. Second, it means that
when your dog *does* have an opportunity to engage in the unwanted
behavior, *you* are around (because you're home to let it out) to give
a proper and timely correction.

As the behavioral aspects pointed out above, reducing the territory
to protect and keeping it in the den are positive things from the
dog's point of view.

6. "How do I know if my dog understands me or is ignoring me?"

There are five reasons a dog might not do a command: it's untrained,
it's confused, it's fearful, it's distracted, or it thinks it has a
choice. Only the last two requires correction. The first two require
working with your dog do solve the problem and to get it to understand
what you want it to do. The fearful reaction is probably an
indication that you're doing something wrong in your approach and you
need to try something else. Persistent fear may need mild correction.
You won't always be able to tell how your dog is reacting, especially
not at first. You must learn to pay attention to your dog so that you
can accurately read it. Think of obedience and training as a two-way
street: you're both learning to understand each other.

Dogs first learn to behave in a certain way without really
understanding what they are doing. By putting the dog in a stressful
situation or tempting the dog to not perform the exercise, you can see
how well it understands the exercise. When the dog initially fails
under these circumstances, it is only appropriate to help them through
the exercise. Corrections are done if the dog appears to think it has
a choice; or if the dog continues to be afraid after helping for a
long time. In this case, the dog needs to learn to work through his
fear. Corrections are appropriate, because dogs often think their
owners approve of the fear -- in particular, soothing them can
communicate your approval of their fear. Keep corrections for fear
mild, but definitely corrective.

B. Principles Behind Dominance.

For obedience training to proceed smoothly, your dog must consider you
its alpha leader. This means that it considers YOU the boss. There
are a number of exercises you can to to establish and maintain
dominance over your dog. Individual dogs vary in submissiveness. If
your dog is very submissive, you don't need to worry about
establishing dominance (in fact, you may need to tone down your own
dominating behavior to help bolster its confidence). Most dogs are
happy to be submissive: just be sure to show approval at the
occasional signs of submission, and assert dominance if it tries to
test you (most dogs will, in adolescence). A few dogs may be very
dominant and continually challenge you for dominance, in which case
you will actively need to assert and establish your position.

Never mistake being alpha with punishment. An alpha leader is fair.
An alpha leader *deserves* its position. An alpha leader does not use
fear, punishment or brute force to achieve and maintain its position.
An alpha leader, instead, makes it crystal clear what behaviors it
approves of and which it does not.

If you get mad at your dog, or angry or furious, you've lost the alpha
position. Dogs do not understand fury. You have to be calm and focused.

1. Always show approval at signs of submission

Praise your dog when it drops its eyes first. Praise it when it licks
you under the chin. Give it an enthusiastic tummy rub when it rolls
over on its back.

2. Be consistent and fair in your corrections

You must demonstrate to your dog that it can trust your orders. Do
not ever correct the dog after the fact. Such corrections appear to
be arbitrary and unfair to the dog, because it has no associative
memory the way people do.

If your dog is still a puppy, socializing it is a good way to gain its
trust.

If you decide that some action requires correction, *always* give a
correction when you see that action. For example, if you decide that
your dog is not allowed on the sofa, then *always* correct it when you
see it on the sofa.

Consistency can be a big challenge with a family: every family member
must agree on the basic ground rules with the dog; when and for what
it should be corrected, what commands to use and so on. Families must
cooperate extensively to avoid confusing the dog. It is best if only
one person actively trains the dog; thereafter if the commands are
given the same way, everyone in the family can use them.

3. Correct the dog's challenges

Especially during adolescence, you dog may test and/or challenge your
position. Do not neglect to correct this behavior. Examples of
challenges can be: disobeying you, growling, staring.

4. Learn how to display alpha behavior

You may not need to use all of these, but you should be familiar with
them. They are listed in "escalating" order. Do not use any of these
if you are angry or upset. The point is never to hurt the dog, but to
show it who is alpha. They work best if you are calm, firm, and
matter of fact.

More important than knowing how to perform an alpha roll is learning
to play the alpha role. That means having the attitude of "I am always
right and I will _never_ let my dog willfully disobey me" without ever
becoming angry or giving up.

Using an alpha roll on a dog who is already submissive but disobeys
because it doesn't know what is expected of it can be destructive.
Likewise, using an alpha role on a dominant dog but not using any
other positive reinforcements can alienate it.

Furthermore, alpha rolls are one of the strongest weapons in dominance
arsenal. It should not be used unless one has use chin cuffs and
scruff shakes first.

Being dominant is no substitute for learning to read and understand
your dog. Proper obedience (which should be a part of _any_ dog, even
when only used as a pet) is a two way street and requires you to be as
responsible to your dog as your dog is responsive to you.

Demonstrating dominance:

* Eye contact: alphas "stare down" subordinates. If your dog does
not back down in a stare contest, start a verbal correction. As
soon as it backs down, praise it.

* Taps under the chin: alpha dogs nip subordinates under the chin as
corrections. You can use this by tapping (NEVER hitting) your dog
under the chin with one or two fingers.

* Grabbing under the ears: alpha dogs will chomp under subordinate
dogs' ears and shake. You can mimic this by holding the skin
under your dog's ears firmly and shaking. Again, do not use
excessive force. Do this just enough to get the point across.

* Alpha roll: Pin the dog to ground on its side with feet away from
you. Hold scruff/collar with one hand to pin head down (gently but
firmly). Other hand on hip/groin area (groin area contact will
tend to cause the dog to submit to you.) Hold dog firmly, look
right into its eyes, and wait until it quiets down and looks away
from you for a time lying limp. If the dog struggles, attempts to
bite, or whines, hold firmly, shake scruff if necessary, and give
a verbal correction until the dog calms down. If the dog is calm
and submissive, give mild verbal (not physical) praise. Once the
dog submits for, say, 15 seconds or so, let it up with more mild
verbal praise, but don't excite it. If this is to be a severe
correction, ignore the dog as much as possible for several minutes
afterwards. This alpha "roll" (in which you play the "role" of
the alpha dog in the pack) is intended to teach the dog that you
are the leader and that behavior contrary to your wishes will not
be tolerated.

5. Keep the alpha position

Challenge your dog occasionally, even after puppyhood. Take its food
or a toy away, push it off its sleeping place, etc.

Do mild alpha rolls (tummy rubs, etc) periodically. If the dog is
truly submitting to you as leader it is not at all traumatic, kind of
like a scheduled, low affection-quotient hug, and if the dog is
testing you frequently then you need to do it anyway, so either way it
works.

6. Learn to recognize challenges

Some behaviors are readily recognized as dominant, e.g., growling, but
there are other, more subtle challenges. For example, nudging.
Discourage persistent nudging. Don't let your dog be possessive of
its food or toys. Make it give anything up to you when you ask it to.

C. Dominance Problems.

First of all, don't be surprised if your female dog is a dominant dog.
Dominance and aggression, while more common in male dogs, appears in
female dogs quite often as well.

1. Ignoring your spouse or significant other

A common problem is that your dog pays attention to you, but none
whatsoever to your SO. This problem can even be compounded by your
SO's fear of the dog, or reluctance to take control of it. This
problem does need to be corrected, however, if your SO is ever left
alone with your dog.

Begin by having your SO give commands to your dog. Correct it when it
does not obey. Have several sessions where your SO issues the
commands and you provide the verbal corrections and praise.

Then have your SO challenge the dog. Taking its food away, pushing it
off its sleeping place and the like are good ways. Basically, you
need to back your SO up in every action.

If your SO is actually afraid of the dog, you will have to get past
this fear before you can have your SO established as dominant over
your dog. Go out walking, playing in the park, playing fetch,
whatever fun things it takes and whatever time it takes to get your SO
comfortable with the dog. Have your SO take the leash on occasion.
The key here will be going slow and easy.

If the person the dog does not obey is a young child, do not expect
the dog to consider the child an alpha. As the child grows older,
then you can start making the point that the child is now an alpha in
much the same way. When this is appropriate depends on the childs
emotional maturity and responsibility (because if the child is to be
alpha, she or he must responsibly lead, as described earlier).

2. Growling

You have to distinguish between play growling and serious growling.
If you're in the middle of a tug-o-war game, your dog may growl, and
it's not a problem provided you can still win. If your dog growls or
snaps at you at some other time, say when you get too close to its
food, you must correct it.

D. Aggression with other Dogs.

Dogs can be aggressive with other dogs, especially if they have not
been properly socialized with other dogs in puppy-hood. Sometimes a
dog that is naturally dominant has trouble with other dogs especially
in puberty. Sometimes a dog has a specific experience (e.g. a
dogfight with another aggressive dog) that causes it to become
aggressive toward other dogs in general as well. Whatever the reason,
it is well worth your time working on your dog's aggression toward
other dogs. You will probably get the best results, especially with a
problem dog -- extreme aggression, for example -- if you contact a
local trainer (preferably one that specializes in problem dogs) for
individual help. However, there are some common-sense things you can
do.

First a bit of basic dog pychology: friendly behaviors include moving
side by side, sniffing butts, tails wagging at body level (not up high
or over the back). Not-friendly behaviors include meeting
face-to-face, esp. a face-to-face approach, ears forward and tail over
back.

Force them into friendly behaviors as follows: walk the dogs in
parallel on leash. They should be close enough to see each other but
not close enough to snap at or touch each other. Be careful when you
two turn that the dogs don't tangle. Make sure one doesn't get ahead
of the other: keep them parallel. Keep this up until they relax.
Slowly start walking closer together as behavior permits.

Hold one dog on leash in a sit. Have food treats and a water bottle
handy. Walk the other dog toward it, to about six feet, then turn
away (increase the distance if the sitting dog snarls). The idea is
to turn away *before* the sitting dog shows any aggression. If the
dog shows no agression, reward it with a food tidbit. Do NOT touch
the dog (stand on the leash or tie it down). If it does, spray it
with water. Switch the dogs so that each experiences sitting or
walking toward. They are learning that good things happen without
defensive behavior. As they improve, start walking a bit closer
before turning. If the sitting dog snarls, do NOT turn the other dog
away: the person with the sitting dog should correct it and when the
dog subsides, THEN the moving dog should turn away.

Finally, holding the head of one dog, but allowing it to stand, have
the other dog investigate its rear briefly. This is really the
extreme extension of the above.

These exercises have several purposes. One is to force the dogs to
consider themselves friendly by engaging in the behavior of friendly
dogs. The other is to teach both dogs that an approaching dog is not
necessarily grounds for aggression.

This will take a lot of work, probably over a couple of months, but
they will work, and what's more, should reduce tensions with *other*
dogs as well (i.e., not only between the two specific dogs in the
exercises).

E. Housetraining Problems.

1. Sudden changes in established habits

If your dog has been fine with its housetraining up till now, there
may be several reasons for it to break with its training.

* If there have been no major changes in its life, your dog may very
well have a medical problem, such as kidney trouble. Have your
vet rule out possible medical causes.
* It may be trying to defend its territory if you have a new animal
in the household. You will probably need to separate the pets
for a while, and reintroduce them gradually. Provide each with
a retreat area.
* It may be generally upset or anxious if you've just moved and
trying to assert ownership of the new territory. Mark your
territory first: scatter dirty laundry around the house to tell
your dog YOU'VE claimed the territory and your dog should subside.
After a few days, you can pick up the laundry.

2. Eating feces

Some dogs will eat other animal's feces.

If it is cat feces in an indoor litter box, you can try the following:

* If you have a utility closet or some other closet where you can
keep the litter box, you can fix the door so that it only opens
enough for a cat to get through (assuming big dogs) by using
something like a string/ribbon/rope over the door handle to a
small hook on the adjacent wall or door jamb. If you can make a
more permanent change, you could put a kitty door into the closet
and be able to keep the door shut.
* Get the kind of litter box with a big top and a "kitty door" or
even just an opening on it. Place the litter box with the opening
about 4"-6" from a wall (backwards from the way you would normally
think of placing it). This leaves just enough room for the cat to
get into the box but not (usually) enough room for the dog to get
to the box. The kind of box with the swinging kitty door helps
make it a little harder for the dog to get into it.

A surprising number of dogs eat their own feces. This is a fairly
disgusting habit, but difficult to cure. One way to prevent this from
occurring is to clean up feces as soon as possible, but this can be
difficult for dogs left in yards or kennels all day.

The Monks suggest feeding your dog a dry food that is at least 23%
meat protein, and about 25% raw meat. In addition, either an egg, or a
tablespoon of vegetable oil every few days. They also think that
eating feces may involve a dietary deficiency. Adding Accent
(monosodium glutamate) or kelp tablets (usually available at health
food stores) to your dogs food can give the feces a bad taste for the
dog. Also putting tabasco and vinegar on the feces themselves may
work.

3. Urination

If it is a *change* in your dog's behavior, it might be a bladder
infection, so check that with your vet first. If your dog is an older
spayed bitch, you might need to put her on periodic estrogen doses to
control the leaking.

If your dog is urinating in different places around the house, you can
try the "vinegar trick". Pour some vinegar on the spot in front of
the dog. What you're telling the dog with this is "I'm alpha. YOU
may not pee here." Then clean it all up first with an enzymatic odor
remover and then a good carpet shampoo (see the Assorted Topics FAQ).

F. Submissive Urination

The genetically shy dog is a super submissive type and unlike many
dogs are quite sensitive to any forms of "dominant" behavior in
humans. Even ordinarily submissive dogs can become extremely
submissive if its owner misunderstands and unintentionally forces it
to increase its submissiveness.

Tone down your aggressive behavior -- with a submissive dog there is
no real need to consciously dominate it. Examples of dominating
behavior include:

* Direct eye contact
* Standing over the dog
* Walking towards the dog while looking at it

Tips:

* Wait when you come home. Say "hi" to it and be verbally friendly,
but don't touch or pet it for about 5-15 minutes. Try not to make
the moment more exciting than it already is.
* When you greet it, get down on its level. Rather than standing
and bending at the waist, bend at the knees (or sit) so that your
face is about level with his and you are not looking down on him.
This is a less dominant position, and less likely to trigger a
submissive posture.
* Don't pet it on the head. Rather, tell it to sit, maybe "shake
hands", then scratch it under the chin and on the chest. This is
less dominating than the pat on the head (because you avoid
standing over it).
* When you correct this type of dog, do so with your voice only
(avoid direct eye contact. If it starts to urinate, then say
immediately, "OK, let's go out!" in a happy tone of voice -- and
take it out. Or, take a toy out (something it likes to do) and
play with it. What you are doing here is telling your dog, "OK, I
see your submissiveness. That's good."
* When guests come over, ask them to ignore your dog and not look at
it even if it comes up and sniffs them. After a bit, when people
are sitting down then have them gently put their hands out and
talk to your dog, without looking at it. Usually after about 15
minutes or so everything is fine.

In general, show signs of low-key approval *immediately* when the dog
becomes submissive. Then distract it with something else. When you
ignore submissiveness or get mad at it, you're in effect telling the
dog "You're not submissive enough!" so the poor thing intensifies its
efforts -- and submissive urination is about as submissive as it gets.

Be really positive with your dog, this type lacks self-confidence and
will look to you quite often to make sure everything is OK.

One technique that helps many dogs with this problem is called
"Flooding." You need a group of people, preferably ones who will
stimulate the undesired response (in this case, peeing).

- Have your dog sit with you on leash (preferably not on carpeting!)
- Have the group of people walk past your dog without looking at her;
when they can do this without her peeing, move on to next step (this
is true of all steps)
- Next have the people look/smile at her when they walk past
- Next have the people say something to her ("Hi puppy") as they walk past
- Next have the people give her a treat as they walk past
- Next have the people touch her (ex. pat on the head) as they walk past
- Next, repeat the previous 5 steps but with the people stopping instead
of walking past (ie, stop but don't look, stop and look, stop and say
hi,...)

Ideally this can be done in 1 night with 5-10 people just circulating past
you and your dog, progressing through the steps. The idea is that you start
with the most innocuous action (just walking past) and build up gradually
to the most intense action (someone stopping and petting her).

Actually, this technique can be used for all kinds of other responses:
a dog that jumps on people, barks at them, etc.

G. Other Common Problems.

In general there are several items you can use in training your dog to
leave things alone, if it is persistent about some things. While
these are no substitute for training, they can help the process of
training.

* Bitter apple, bitter orange
* cayenne pepper, especially cooked into oil, but the oil stains easily

Put a little on your hand or a towel, and let your dog sniff it. If
your backs off and looks disgusted, then it should work. Let your dog
see you put the substance on whatever its been chewing, and then sit
back and watch your dog. If it goes up to where the substance is
applied, wait until you know it can smell the stuff, and correct it
right when the stuff hits its nose. This timing is crucial, and is
what helps train your dog away from what it is doing. Do be sensible
and make it physically impossible for your dog to do it when you are
not home to aid in the training process.

1. Chewing

Dogs can cause an amazing amount of destruction by chewing. Usually
the problem is with younger, bored puppies. You need to train them
with a combination of crating and chew toys as described in New
Owners, New Dogs. The substances mentioned above may help in training
the behavior away from specific items.

2. Biting.

It is natural for young puppies to bite and chew on people; however
don't let them do this.

If your dog is a puppy, yelp pitifully when it chomps on you, and
replace your hand with a chew toy; praise heartily when the chew toy
is used instead. If it persists, stand up and stop playing with it.
It is no fun for the puppy if you stop interacting with it, and it
will learn to stop chewing on you fairly quickly.

With older puppies and dogs, say "NO BITE" sternly and withdraw your
hand.

2.1. Fear-biting

This is a separate problem, caused by a fearful and submissive dog
that feels cornered. It indicates an extremely poor temperament and
possible abuse. Such dogs should never be bred.

To deal with a fear-biter (evidenced by a dog that bites/threatens to
bite but has its ears laid *back* along its head rather than facing
forward), first you have to deal with the insecurity and temperament
of the dog. This kind of dog has no self-confidence at all, hence its
ready alarm at normally innocuous situations.

Think of the submissive dog outlined above. You need to build up its
confidence: pay close attention to understand exactly what sets it off
(some are afraid of men, men with beards, people holding something in
their hand, small children, etc) and for now, remove that from its
environment. Do some training or other work with it to build up its
confidence (the training in this case becomes a vehicle for praising
the dog). Then work slowly on its fear.

You should really enlist professional help to deal with a fear biter
unless you are experienced with dogs. This kind of dog takes lots of
patience and careful reading and may never become trustworthy. If you
cannot resolve its problems, consider having it destroyed; don't pass
it along to someone else to become a problem for that person.

3. Barking.

Each and every time your dog barks, go out and see why the dog is
barking. If your dog is barking for a good reason (such as a stranger
in the yard), you should praise your dog and then tell it to be quiet.
If the dog is barking because there is a squirrel up the tree, or
something similar, tell the dog to be quiet and immediately go back
into the house. You will have to repeat this every time the dog
barks. Pretty soon, in a week or so depending on the dog, the dog
will only bark for a good reason. The dog may still bark at the
squirrel, but not continually. Instead, one or two good barks to
scare the squirrel, and then it considers its duty done. At the same
time, you have not dampened your dogs ability to bark when there is
something wrong.

If your neighbors complain about your dog barking while you are not at
home, first purchase a voice-activated tape recorder and set it up
where your dog will trigger the tape if it barks. You may find that
your neighbor is incorrect about how much your dog actually does bark
(keep a log of the barking you record). You may find out what exactly
causes it to bark (hearing a car drive by before each barking
sequence, for example), giving you some ideas for eliminating the
behavior. But do determine that there is actually a problem before
you try to do something about it.

If you know that you have a problem, you might enlist the help of your
neighbors. Neighbors are often happy to help you with this problem!
Have them squirt water at excessive barking, or rattle cans of
pennies/rocks, etc.

There is some evidence that barking is an inherited trait: if the
parents bark a lot, chances are their puppies will, too.

Often, one method that helps alleviate barking is to give your dog
specific permission to bark. Teach it to "speak" -- let it "speak"
when appropriate (say, when you're playing in the park). Then "no
speak" follows from that. However, there is often a problem when the
dog is alone. The following methods outline some other possibilities
to address this problem.

(a) Collars

There are collars available that are meant to help train your dog not
to bark. Dogs will react differently, depending on how well they
learn, train, and handle. The collars by themselves are not the
solution to your dog's barking: it must understand what the collar
does, and you will have to *train* it using the collar.

(b) Debarking

Surgery on the dog's vocal cords can be done to reduce the barking to
a whispery sound. This is a controversial practice, banned in Britain
and other places. Some vets will refuse to do the surgery.

The dogs do not stop barking. They do not seem to notice the
difference, or at any rate continue "barking" as if they still made
the noise.

There are different ways to perform the surgery, and it is possible
for the vocal cords to grow back and the dog to regain its bark. If
the vocal cords are cut, chances are the cords will heal themselves.
If they are cauterized, the operation will last longer. Whether it is
over a period of weeks or months, it seems that the dog eventually
regains use of its vocal cords.

(c) Muzzles

There is a "No-Bark Muzzle" that is designed to prevent dogs from
barking. Many dogs very rapidly learn not to bark when the muzzle is
put on them each time they start barking. It is not binding or
confining and does not put the dog through surgery.

4. Digging.

Dogs may dig out of boredom or to make a cooling/heating pit.

Some approaches:

* Filling in the holes: Try refilling the holes with junk. With
junk, dogs can quickly lose interest and pretty much stop digging.
Fill the hole with whatever is at hand - dead leaves, sticks, pine
needles, rocks or even dog feces. Fill the top 2 inches or so with
dirt. The dog finds the stuff, gets discouraged and often quits
digging. They seem to get the idea they'll never know where
they'll find junk, and it's not worth the effort to dig only to
find junk so they quit.

* Surprises in the hole: The Koehler dog method advocates filling
holes with water and sticking dog's head under the water for a few
seconds or so. This may not work with some breeds (e.g.,
Labradors), and may not appeal to you as a method to try.
Alternatively, you can try burying a water balloon in one of the
holes which will pop in its face when it starts digging
(surprise).

* A sandbox: Try to remember that digging is a natural tendency for
dogs. So, if there is any place where your dog may be allowed to
dig, you should encourage it (and only in that place). Designate
an area where the dog can dig. Many people build a sand box for
their dog. Place the box in an area that is cool in summer and
warm in winter.

To teach the dog to dig only in the box, place or bury toys or
treats (sliced hotdogs, for example) in the box. Encourage the
dog to dig up the toy or treat. Praise the dog. Repeat untill
the dog willingly jumps in and digs. Watch the dog. When it
starts to dig in any other place, quickly go out and take your dog
to its box. Show it (by digging yourself), that it should dig in
its box. To deter boredom, place several toys/treats in the box
before you leave for work. The dog will spend its time digging in
the correct place rather than digging up your roses. You can also
sprinkle animal essence (available at hunting supplies places).

Remember that dogs like to dig in freshly turned earth. So get
out that shovel and turn the dirt over in the sand box every now
and then. Toss in some fresh dirt. Keep a close eye on freshly
planted areas, as they will be very attractive (bury some extra
hotdogs in the sandbox when you are putting down new plants).

* Line the yard. Only for extreme cases: you can line the yard with
chicken wire and put a layer of sod over that. Use paving bricks or
blocks around the edge to prevent the dog from injuring itself on
the edge of the chicken wire.

5. Garbage.

You should train your dog away from this habit. Crate it, to keep it
out of the garbage when you are not home, and correct it when it gets
into it when you are at home. This works best if you start in
puppyhood.

If you already have this problem, some approaches to try:

* You can get "Mr. Yuk" labels and put them in the trash to keep
them out of it or spray Bitter Apple into it. But you have to
remember to do this regularly. If you can, put the trash out of
reach of the dog, eg, under the sink. You may need to get the
kinds of trash cans that have closing lids. Don't start easy and
work your way up as the dog figures each one out: you are just
training your dog how to open garbage cans. Get a good, well
secured one at the start.

* Get some jalapeno peppers, or something that your dog REALLY
HATES. Slice them up and spend some time wrapping each one
individually in tissues or kleenex. Fill the trash can with the
wrapped surprises and let your dog at it. A few days of this
should convince your dog that trash cans are not fun.

* Put a mousetrap in the bottom of an empty can, cover it with
newspaper, then put something that the dog really likes in the can
and leave the room. Only do this when you are around, do not trap
all the trash cans and then go off to work for the day!

6. Jumping.

Since most dogs are shorter than you, its natural tendency is to jump
up to see you. It is also an expression of exuberance and happiness.
However, you may be wearing your Sunday Best. The dog's paws may be
muddy. The puppy may grow too large. Some people are afraid of dogs.
Train your dog not to jump on people. If you don't mind your dog
jumping on you, then train it to jump on you only when it's "OK".

In general, correct it immediately when it jumps on you, praise it
when all four paws land back on ground. A helpful reinforcement is to
give them a command and praise lavishly when they do it, e.g., "No!
Brownie, sit! Good girl, what a good girl!"

Try to anticipate the jumping: look for their hindquarters beginning
to crouch down, and correct them when you see them *about* to jump.
With medium-sized dogs, you can discourage jumping with a well-timed
knee in the chest (never kick). This does not work as well on small
dogs and very large dogs. With small dogs, step back so they miss
you; you can also splay your hand in front of you so their face bumps
into it (don't hit them, let them bump into you). Correct, then
praise when on ground. With larger dogs, the kind that don't really
*jump*, but *place* their paws on your shoulders, grab some skin below
their ears (be firm but not rough) and pull them down, saying "No!"
Again, praise it when it is back on ground.

You should note that some dogs do not respond to the above physical
corrections. They may view it as a form of rough play, or be so happy
to get attention that they don't mind it being negative. In these
cases, a much more effective approach is to ignore such a dog,
stepping back slightly or turning your back when it jumps. Give
lavish praise and attention when all paws are on the ground again.

Gradually expand this to include friends and visitors. Start first
with people who understand what you want to do and will apply the
physical correction in conjunction with your "No!" As the dog
improves, expand with other people. In the interim, a reinforcing
exercise is to put your dog on a leash, and stand on one end of the
leash or otherwise secure it so your dog can stand but not jump. When
it tries to greet someone by jumping up, praise it *when it lands* and
don't correct it for attempting to jump.

For those of you who don't mind being jumped, you can gain control
over it by teaching your dog that it can jump on you -- when you OK
it. At random times (i.e., not *every* time you correct it), after
your correction and praise for getting back down, wait thirty seconds
or so, and then happily say "OK, jump" (or something similar, as long
as you're consistent) and praise your dog when it jumps up then. At
other times, when it is *not* trying to jump on you, encourage it to
do so on your permission, using the same phrase. You must make it
clear that it shouldn't jump on you unless you give it permission, so
you must still correct unpermitted jumping.

7. Whining

In many cases, the dog is trying to manipulate you when it whines.
First be sure that the dog isn't telling you it has to eliminate. If
you know it doesn't have to go, correct it. If it persists, then you
can try squirting lemon juice in its mouth to discourage whining.

8. Car chasing

This is symptomatic of a larger problem: why is your dog free to run
after cars in the first place? If the dog is being allowed to roam
that should be stopped.

Have a few friends drive by (slowly) in a strange car. When the dog
gets in range, open the window and dump a bucket of ice cold water on
the animal's head/back. Repeat as needed (with a different car) for
reinforcement.

9. Tug of War

The Monks (and former Monk, Job Michael Evans) seem to believe that
playing tug is a form of "teaching" the dog to use its teeth, and
therefore a precursor to the dog's learning to use its teeth as a
weapon. In their view, you should never play tug with a dog. There
are other authorities that recommend never playing tug of war with
your dog.

However, dealing with the aggression may be more constructive than
never teaching your dog to use its teeth. Besides, studies on canine
aggression show that even extremely docile dogs can be provoked to
show aggression. Houpt and Wolski in their book _Domestic Animal
Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists_ note: "Growling is
an aggressive call in dogs, and is commonly known. It is interesting
evolutionarily that even the most placid dog can be induced to growl
if one threatens to take a bone away from it. A scarcity of food in
general can increase aggression ..., but bones seem to have particular
value even for the satiated dog."

This can hinge on whether you (as the owner) can distinguish between
challenges and playing. If the dog is playing when doing TOW, there's
no problem. If it *is* challenging you doing this, you need to 1)
recognize the challenge (versus just playing) 2) win and 3) stop the
TOW and correct its challenge to your authority. If you can't make
the distinction, then don't play tug-of-war with it.

Couple any tug-o-war games with the command "Give" or something
similar so that the dog learns to immediately let go ON COMMAND. If
it doesn't, that's a challenge, and you need to deal with it. Teach
your dog what "give" when you start playing this game with it. When
you know that your dog understands the command, then periodically
reinforce it by having your dog "give" at random times. This becomes
a form of keeping your alpha position as mentioned earlier in this
article.

10. People Food.

Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when

you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to add
unneeded calories to its diet and your dog may become overweight.
Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping down any food it can

get, it may seriously poison or distress itself someday.

Some guidelines. Do not feed the dog anything but dog food and dog
treats. You might add vegetable oil or linatone to the food to
improve its coat. There are other foods that you may want to add to
improve its diet (check with your vet first for appropriate food to
meet the dietary need you want to address), but always feed them to
the dog in its dish, never from your plate or from your hand while you
are eating. Discourage your dog from begging at the table by tying it
nearby (so that it does not feel isolated from the social activity)
but out of reach of the table. Give it its own food to eat at the
same time, and do not give it any treats during your eating time.
Tell your dog "no" or "leave it" if it goes for anything edible on the
floor (or on the ground during walks!), praise it when it obeys you.
Teach it that the only food it should take should be from its dish or
someone's hand.

If you are concerned about the "boring and drab" diet for your dog,
don't think of food as a way to interest it! Play with it, take it
out on walks -- there are many other and better ways to make life
exciting for your dog.

Both _Mother Knows Best_ and _The Weekend Dog_ have good sections on
feeding your dog and what food should mean to it.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/resources
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



RESOURCES.

A. Catalogues & Mail-order Companies.
B. Magazines.
C. Organizations.

A. Catalogues & Mail-order Companies.

I can make no statement about any of these companies or their
products. In particular, no endorsement by me is implied herein. If
you have any comments or corrections, I will note them here along with
the date. The accuracy of any address or phone number is not
guaranteed.

Acme Machine Co. ADANAK Sleds and Equipment
2901 Freemont Ave. South 4108 Hywy 93 N
Minneapolis, MN 55408 Kalispell, MT 59901
tel: 1-800-332-2472, 612-827-3571 tel: 406-752-2929
fax: 612-827-8905 Sledding equpment
obedience supplies, including a dumbbell
with a nylabone dowel

Alpine Publications, Inc. America's Pet Door Store (1/93)
233 South Madison Avenue Patio Pacific Inc., Dept. 7
P.O. Box 7027 1931-C N. Gaffey St.
Loveland, Colorado 80537 San Pedro, CA 90731
tel: 1-800-777-7257 orders only, tel: 1-800-826-2871
303-667-2017 customer service wide variety of pet doors
books ships US-wide

Animals Etc. (1.93) Animal Town, Inc.
PO Box 2720-166 P.O. Box 1710
Huntington Beach, CA 92647 El Cajon, CA 92022
tel: 714-964-9906 dog, cat, fish, bird &
animal statuary -- many hard to find small animal pet supplies
breeds and colors, excellent quality

AVP (1/93)
Box 1326
Galesburg, IL 61402
free catalogue, pet care products

Bedford Farms/Black Ice Beef Rawhide
11225 County Road 20 P.O. Box 1210
Delano, Minnesota 55328 Riverdale, NY 10471-1210
tel: 612-955-2505 tel: 1-800-836-2333
sledding supplies, rawhides -- very good quality
excellent harnesses and prices

Care-A-Lot Pet Supply Warehouse (1/93) Cherrybrook
1617 Diamond Springs Road Route 57, P.O. Box 15
Virginia Beach, Virginia 23455 Broadway, New Jersey 08808
tel: 1-800-343-7680 outside Virginia, tel: 1-800-524-0820 outside NJ,
804-460-9771 within Virginia 201-689-7979 in NJ
staffed: m-f 9 am - 6:30 pm, fax: 201-689-7988
sat 10 am - 5 pm, EST general dog and cat supplies
fax: 804-460-0317
general dog and cat supplies, some tools

Color Critters Custom Statuary (1.93) The Corgi Shop (11/93)
PO Box 4158 P.O. Box 1500
West Covina, CA 91791 125 South Main Street
tel: 818-918-6724 Lanesboro, MA 01237
makes breed statues -- many breeds or tel: 413-499-9939
will custom make. $5 catalogue, refunded corgi-related items
with first order

Custom Dog Supplies Custom Needlework Designs (1/93)
3531 East Winesap Box 9
Salt Lake City, UT 84121-4524 Oreland, PA 19075
tel: 801-942-2206 tel: 1-800-767-6313
needlework created from photos

Cycle Guide to America's Dogs Denlinger's Publishers, LTD
Quaker Professional Services PO Box 76
Cycle Dog Chart Fairfax, VA 22030
585 Hawthorn Ct. tel: 703-830-4646
Galesburg, IL 61401 fax: 703-830-5303
a 25"X38" poster depicting all 137 books
AKC-recognized breeds, folded or rolled

Direct Book Service (3/93) Econoseal Pet Doors (1/93)
Dog & Cat Book Catalog 5214 W. Luke, Suite 8
8 Summercreek Place Glendale, AZ 85301
PO Box 3073 tel: 800-444-9499
Wenatchee, WA 98807 weatherproof pet doors
tel: 1-800-766-2665 (orders, 24hrs)
509-663-9115 (customer service)
staffed 8-5 M-F, PST
fax: 1-509-662-7233
dog books, including out-of-print
books; very complete; book searches

Econo.Vet Foster & Smith
tel: 1-800-451-4162 PO Box 100
best vaccine prices in the US Rhinelander, WI 54501
tel: 1-800-826-7206
pet supplies, large discounts

Goldrusk Pet Care Center Good Vibrations
1991 Allouez Avenue Box 317
Green Bay, WI 54311 Englishtown Rd.
tel: 414-468-7956 Old Bridge, NJ 08857
908-251-5959
T's, sweats, 165+ breeds,
free catalogue
Howell Book House (1/93)
866 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10022
tel: 1-800-257-5755, 212-702-3424

IKON Outfitters LTD. Invisible Fencing
7597 Latham Road 724 West Lancaster Avenue
Lodi, Wisconsin 53555 Wayne, Pennsylvania 19087
tel: 608-592-4397 tel: 215-964-0600
staffed: m-f 8-5, central time
sleds, sledding and carting supplies,
backpacks

J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc. (1/93) Jeffers Vet Supply
289 Wagaraw Road Box 100
Hawthorne, New Jersey 07506 Dothan, Alabama 36302-0100
tel: 1-800-526-0388, tel: 1-800-633-7592
1-800-872-6028 outside NJ;
201-423-2222 in NJ
staffed: m-f 9-6, sat 9:30 - 4:30, EST
fax: 201-423-1181
general dog - some cat -supplies

J and J Dog Supplies K-9 Carts
P.O. Box 1517 532 Newtown Rd.
Galesburg, Illinois 61402 Berwyn, PA 19312
tel: 1-800-642-2050 215-644-6624
staffed: 8:30-4:30, central time carts for paralyzed or amputated
fax: 309-344-3522 dogs
obedience supplies, leather leashes

Kaleb's Kart Co
Route 3, Box 89 Chapel Lane
Neilsville, WI 54456
tel: 715-743-3864
skijoring equipment

Kennel Vet (1/93) Kicksled USA
Box 835 Old Route 16
Bellmore Ny 11710 Center Ossipee, NH 03814
tel: 516-783-5400 tel: 800-621-2636
vaccines, crates, books, toys, lightweight dog sleds for training
etc -- free catalogue and familly fun

Konari Outfitters Lakeshore Artisans, Inc. (1/93)
P.O. Box 752 PO Box 160
52 Seymour St. Belgium, WI 53004-0160
Middlebury, VT 05753 tel: 414-285-3160
tel: 802-388-7447 100+ breeds: note paper, plaques,
variety of outdoor/dog supplies, T's, sweats, mugs, etc.
sledding harnesses, backpacks, etc $1 catalogue & breed sample

Leerburg Video Production Long Run Kennels
P.O. Box 218 P.O. Box 1475
Menomonie, Wisconsin 54751 Charlestown, RI 02813
tel: 715-235-6502 tel: 1-800-365-6936
staffed: 24hrs/7days/week
general pet supplies,
$30 minimum order.

Martha's Vineyard (9/92) Master Animal Care
(in Massachusetts) 411 7th Avenue
tel: 508-693-1991 Box 7
fax: 508-693-6438 Two Harbors, Minnesota 55616-0007
Catalogue includes a "black dog" tel: 1-800-346-0749
theme, food bowls, caps, sweatshirts, 1-800-325-2465 (in Minnesota)
etc (dog looks like a labrador)

Max 200 Multipet Pty. Ltd.
tel: 800-446-2920, PO Box 35347
201-331-0133 (NJ) Northway, 4065 South Africa
sells patches, they have distributor for TFH Publications
CD, CDX, UD, TD, TCX; in South Africa
Visa/Mastercard accepted

New England Serum Company (3/93)
US Route 1
Topsfield, MA 01983
tel: 1-800-NE-SERUM
grooming supplies, toys, crates,
xpens and mats, excellent discounts
especially in bulk

Nordkyn Outfitters Omaha Vaccine Company
PO Box 1023 Best Care Catalogue
Graham, WA 98338-1023 3030 "L" Street PO Box 7228
tel: 206-847-4128 Omaha, Nebraska 68107
sledding and weight pulling supplies tel: 1-800-367-4444
staffed 7-6 M-F, 8-noon Sat CST
sister company to
Wholesale Veterinary Supplies

The Patch Place Patch Werks
2010 E. Wren St. K. Sours
Peoria Heights, IL 61614 3821 N. Charter Oak Rd.
for patches with titles Peoria, IL 61615
custom patches

Pedigrees (8.92) Penguin USA
1989 Transit Way Box 120
Box 905 Bergenfield, NJ 07621-0120
Brockport, NY 14420-0905 tel: 1-800-526-0275 orders
tel: 716-637-1431 orders staffed 9-4 M-F EST
716-637-1434 service 1-800-331-4624 cust. service
staffed: M-F 8-7:30, 9-1 Sat EST staffed 9-4:30 M-F EST
general dog and cat supplies; fax: 1-800-227-9604
pet-related gift items 201-385-6521
a front for RC Steele, not telex: 13-5329
subject to the $50 minimum order pet books

Personalized Canine Checks (1/93) The Pet Book Shop
Kansas Bank Note Co. P.O. Box 507
Fifth & Jefferson Oyster Bay, New York 11771
PO Box 360 tel: 516-922-1169
Fredonia, KS 66736
316-378-3026
free brochure; 140+ breeds

Pet Doors USA (1/93) Premier Pet Products
4523 30th St. W. 2406 Krossridge Road
Bradenton, FL 34207 Richmond, VA 23236
tel: 1-800-749-9609 tel: 800-933-5595
free catalogue

Pet Warehouse
PO Box 20250
Dayton OH 45420
tel: 1-800-443-1160
catalogue

Pro Kennel Supply (1/93) Ray Allen Manufacturing Co. Inc.
P.O. Box 25226 P.O. Box 9281
Little Rock, AR 72221 Colorado Springs, CO 80932-0281
tel: 1-800-762-7049 tel: 1-800-444-0404 orders only
staffed M-Sa 7-9, central time 1-719-633-0404 cust. service
for the hunting kennel working dog supplies (schutzhund,
obed. ring, etc.)

Rae's Harness Shop R.C. Steele (1/93)
1524 E. Dowling Rd. 1989 Transit Way
Anchorage, Alaska 99507 Box 910
tel: 1-800-594-2262 Brockport, NY 14420-0910
Sled dog supplies tel: 1-800-872-3773 to order,
1-800-424-2205 in canada,
Solo Pet Door (1/93) 1-800-272-0234 cust. service,
10882 Wilson Ave. 1-716-637-1408 local
Alta Loma, CA 91701 staffed M-F 8-7:30,
tel: 714-989-9999 Sat 9-1, EST
electronic pet doors fax: 1-716-637-8244
wide array of pet supplies,
good prices, $50 minimum order

Rover Vinyl-Tech Industries Sound Dog Productions
20 Kiji Dava PO Box 27488
Sundog Industrial Park Seattle, WA 98125-2488
Prescott, AZ 86301 tel: 1-206-547-7877
tel: 800-658-5925
fax: 602-776-7001
safe barrier gates to block
doorways, etc, plus dog beds
free brochure

Tails X-press (3/93) T.F.H. Publications, Inc. (1/93)
974 Terminal Way P.O. Box 27
San Carlos, CA 94070 Neptune, NJ 07753
tel: 1-800-828-8685 (order) tel: 201-988-8400
1-415-508-9668 (cust. service) books
fax: 1-415-851-9840 (order)
wide variety of dog stuff, not
discounted, some unusual things

Tun-Dra Outfitters UPCO (1/93)
16438-96th Ave. Dept 10, PO Box 969
Nunica, Michigan 49448 St. Joseph, MO 64502
tel: 616-837-9726 tel: 816-233-8800
staffed: M-Sa 9-7, Su 1-5 fax: 816-233-9696
sledding and etc. supplies free catalogue, pet care items

Wholesale Pet USA Wholesale Veterinary Supply, Inc.
975 Ford Street P.O. Box 2256
Colorado Springs, CO 80915-3760 Rockford, IL 61131
tel: 1-800-444-0404 orders, tel: 1-800-435-6940
1-719-380-0404 cust. service sister company to Omaha
staffed M-F 8-5 Sa 8-noon Vaccine Company
fax: 1-719-380-9730
general dog supplies; some cat
and small animal products

Working Breeds, Etc. (1/93) Yuppie Puppy Pet Care, Inc
4739 Bonnie Branch Road New York, NY
Ellicott City, MD 21043 tel: 212-877-2747
equipment for obedience, K-9
and Schutzhund

B. Magazines.

AKC Hunting Test Herald (8/92) The Canine Chronicle (9/92)
Robin Rolt, Editor Court Square Tower
372 Wildwood Ave. 605 Second Avenue N. Suite 203
Worcester, MA 01603 Columbus, MS 39701
508-798-2386 601-327-1124
A new magazine, free sample 601-327-9750 fax
available on request. For retrievers, $55 6 months, $80 1y, $135 2y
pointers and spaniels. monthly

DogFancy Dog Watch
Subscription Department 11331 Ventura Blvd., Suite 301
PO Box 53264 Studio City, CA 91604
Boulder, Colorado 80323-3264 818-761-DOGS
tel: 303-447-9330 weekly "newspaper" (except last
general dog magazine. two weeks in december) free copies
sent to judges

Dog World DSM PUBLISHING, INC.
PO Box 6500 (Dog Sports Magazine,
Chicago, IL 60680 K-9 Product News,
tel: 1-800-247-8080 Sea Meadow Products Co.)
dog magazine; overseas orders acceptable 940 Tyler Street, Studio 17
Benicia, CA 94510-2916 / USA
tel: 1-707-745-6897
fax: 1-707-745-4581

Front and Finish Good Dog! 5/93
P.O. Box 333 PO Box 31292
Galesburg, IL 61402-0333 Charleston, SC 29417
1-309-344-1333 tel: 1-800-968-1738
AKC-Obedience related information $14.95/year; monthly
newspaper format

Gun Dog
PO Box 343
Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0343
tel: 1-800-435-0715

Mushing Northeast Canine Companion
P.O. Box 149 P.O. Box 357
Ester, AK 99725-0149 Sudbury,MA 01776
This is an all season international canine club and magazine for
magazine for dog driving sports. folks in the NE US area

The Pointing Dog Journal Purebred Dogs/American
PO Box 936 Kennel Gazette (1/93)
Manitowoc, WI 54221-0936 5580 Centerview Dr., Suite 200
tel: 1-800-333-POINT Raleigh NC 27606-0643
overseas subscriptions accepted tel: 1-919-233-9780
all pointing breeds official AKC publication, lists
all AKC-approved shows & contains
variety of articles

The Ranch Dog Trainer TNT (1/93)
Rt. 1, Box 21 D-McG Publications
Koshkonong MO 56592 8848 Beverly Hills
herding issues, etc. Lakeland, FL 33809
813-858-3839
magazine devoted to dogs in the
Toy Group

SHEEP! Magazine Today's Breeder
Rt. 1 PO Box 3427
Helenville WI 53137 Cincinatti, OH 45201
sheep herding

The Working Border Collie, Inc.

14933 Kirkwood Road
Sidney, Ohio 45365

tel: 513-492-2215
bimonthly on herding issues

C. Organizations.

American Boarding Kennel Association American Dog Owners Association
4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A 1654 Columbia Turnpike
Colorado Springs, CO 80915 Castleton, New York 12033
tel: 719-591-1113 bimonthly newsletter; works to
promote responsible dog-ownership
and fights anti-dog legislation

American Humane Association American Mixed Breed Obedience
5351 S. Roslyn Street Registration (AMBOR)
Englewood, Colorado 80111. 205 Ist Street, S.W.
tel: 303-779-1400 New Prague, MN 56071
offers titles to dogs in rings
under AKC rules

Canine Defense Fund
contributions used strictly to fund
legal battles against anti-dog
legislation (us. breed-specific leg.)

Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF) Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America
South Campus Courts C c/o Phyllis Massa
Purdue University 1937 Seven Pines
West Lafayette, IN 47906 Creve Coeur, MO 63146
United States offers obedience titles of their
own (registered dogs must be
neutered).

National Association of Dog National Association of
Obedience Instructors (NADOI, Inc.) Pet Sitters
Gwen Coon, Sec'y 632 Holly Ave.
2286 E. Steel Road Winston Salem, NC 27101
St. John's MI 48879 919-723-PETS

National Dog Registry (NDR) New England Obedience News
PO Box 116 70 Medford Street
Woodstock NY 12498 Chicopee, MA 01020
800-NDR-DOGS offers All American Obedience
titles; similar to AKC rules;
open to mixed breeds

Tattoo-A-Pet (TAP) The Wolf Society of Great Britain
1625 Emmons Ave. Prospect House
Brooklyn, NY 11235 Charlton
1-800-TATTOOS Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/service
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



SERVICE DOGS.

A. Dogs for the Blind
B. Hearing and Signal Dogs.
C. Canine Companions for Independence.
D. Therapy Dogs.
E. More Information.

A. Dogs for the Blind

My thanks to Rusty Wright for the information on Guide Dogs.

Dogs can be trained to accompany and guide blind people. Most
commonly referred to as "Seeing Eye Dogs" or "Guide Dogs," there are
actually several organizations within the US and many abroad that
train dogs to guide the blind.

There are many organizations in the US that provide guide dogs for
blind people. In the East it's The Seeing Eye (Morristown, NJ), and
in the West it's Guide Dogs for the Blind (San Rafael, CA). There is
Leader Dogs for the Blind in the Michigan area. Guide Dogs of the
Desert is a Southern California-based group. [more detailed
addresses?]

Dogs guiding the blind must not only be able to guide their owner
through traffic, obstacles, etc, but also must ignore other people,
dogs, and distractions. They are, by law in most places, allowed to
enter any building or establishment.

1. Guide Dogs for the Blind [US]

Guide Dogs got started in 1942. It costs them about $40,000 per dog.
This reflects how much money they get in donations: to arrive at this
figure they take their total yearly operating costs and divide it by
the number of successful dogs they produce.

The breeds used by Guide Dogs are black and yellow Labs, Golden
Retriever, and German Shepherd. The males and females used for
breeding live in homes as regular "pets." They go back to Guide Dogs
to be bred and the females go back when they're in season even if they
aren't going to be bred. The females are bred once a year. The
females also go back to whelp and raise their puppies in the Guide Dog
kennels. All of these breeders live in homes within a 50 mile radius
of Guide Dogs.

Families who raise the puppies simply train them in basic dog
obedience, and stress lots of socialization and good manners. For
example, if you go to a dog show, you are likely to see several such
puppies there, learning to take it all in stride. The dogs go back
for their formal training when they're about 1.5 years old, although
they can go back as young as 1.0 year old.

Children are preferred as puppy raisers, hence the coordination with
4-H. Interestingly enough, the puppies raised by kids are more likely
to make it through the formal guide dog training. The difference is
not drastic, but is "significant."

When dogs go back for their training they're carefully screened for
any hip abnormalities. If the hips aren't very good they're
immediately "retired." The formal training takes about 6 months.
During this time they live in the kennels at Guide Dogs. During their
formal training they get a letter grade (A-F) each week. Dogs can
fail for a variety of reasons. As you might guess, some dogs don't
transition well from living in a puppy raiser's home to living in the
kennels and just get stressed out and fail. The puppy raiser gets the
option of keeping a dog that failed. If the puppy raiser can't keep
the dog they can place it in a home. The puppy raiser can also let
Guide Dogs place the dog; the waiting list is at least 3 years long.

Before a guide dog is given to a blind person the blind person must
attend training at Guide Dogs. This training is 4 weeks long. During
this time the blind person lives in the dorms at Guide Dogs. There
are about 12 people in each 4-week class. The first week of training
is without the dog. During the last week of training they make field
trips to downtown San Francisco. People coming back to get a
replacement dog take a two week "refresher" class. A graduation
ceremony is held on Saturday at 1pm, every 4 weeks at Guide Dogs for
the Blind in San Rafael. The puppy raisers come to the graduation
ceremony and each puppy raiser formally presents the guide dog they
raised to the blind person. (As you can imagine, it's a rather
tearful ceremony.) The public is welcome to come to the graduations;
they are held outdoors and attire is casual. After the graduation
ceremony there is a demonstration of a working guide dog and tours of
the kennels and facilities.

Guide Dogs for the Blind is a completely non-profit organization and
survives entirely on donations. The blind people don't pay any money
for the guide dog. The guide dog is still owned by Guide Dogs while
the blind person has it; there have been occasional cases where the
blind person just wasn't equipped or prepared to have a dog and the
dog is returned to Guide Dogs. Guide Dogs makes a yearly visit with
each blind person that has one of their dogs to check on the dog's
health, behavior, etc.

2. Statens Hundskola [Sweden]

In Sweden (Statens Hundskola) they screen the dogs at least twice, the
first time just before sexual maturity to determine if a male dog will
be neutered. Their main problem is that so many dogs wind up
unsuitable, so they are starting an education programme for the people
who take care of the puppies.

[I envision sections on Seeing Eye, UK Guide dogs, etc, being added.]

3. References

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J. _The new knowledge of dog behavior_.
Foreword by J. P. Scott. Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, 1963.
Gives an excellent history of how Guide Dogs was started, and has
other interesting information.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth. Includes a history of the organization.

Harrington, Paula. _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.

B. Hearing and Signal Dogs.

Other dogs are trained to assist deaf people. They alert their owner
to a variety of sounds, usually by coming up to the person and going
back to the source of the sound. They will signal on door bell and
knocking, phones, smoke alarms, crying babies and much more. They are
licensed as are guide dogs and are to be permitted anywhere,
although since they are not as widely recognized, their owners often
have to display their permit.

There are several organizations that train hearing dogs; CCI (below)
is one of them. Others (I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
addresses except where noted):

* American Humane Association, 5351 S. Roslyn Street, Englewood,
Colorado 80111. (303-779-1400.
* Audio Dogs, 27 Crescent Street, Brooklyn, New York 11208.
212-827-2792.
* Dogs for the Deaf, Applegate Behavior Station, 13260 Highway 238,
Jacksonville, Oregon 97530. 503-899-7177.
* Guide Dog Foundation, 371 Jericho Turnpike, Smithtown, New York
11787. 516-265-2121.
* Hearing Dog, Inc., Agnes McGrath, Director; 5901 E. 89 Ave.,
Henderson, Colorado 80640. 303-287-3277 (voice/tty).
* NEADS (New England Assistance Dog Service), P.O. Box 213, West
Boylston, Massachusetts 01583. 508-835-3304 (TT/voice). Verified
May '92.
* San Francisco SPCA, Hearing Dog Program, 2500 16th Street, San
Francisco, CA 94103. 415-554-3020. Verified March '92.

An organization that teaches deaf people to train their own dogs:

* Handi-Dogs, Inc., PO Box 12563, Tucson, Arizona 85732. 602-326-3412
or 602-325-6466.

The National Information Center on Deafness at Gallaudet University,
publishes a fact sheet on hearing ear dogs. It can be obtained by
sending $1.00 to NICD, Gallaudet University, 800 Flordia Ave., NE,
Washington, DC 20002. The fact sheet discusses commonly asked
questions about hearing ear dogs and it lists training programs
across the U.S.

C. Canine Companions for Independence.

CCI was founded in 1975. They estimate that each of their dogs takes
about $20,000 to train, a cost covered by donations and volunteer
work. It is a national-wide organization with many regional chapters.

National Headquarters NW Regional Center
4350 Occidental Road 1215 Sebastopol Road
P.O. Box 446 Santa Rosa, CA 95407-6834
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446 707-579-1985 V/TDD
702-528-0830 V/TDD

SW Regional Center SE Regional Center
P.O. Box 8247 P.O. Box 547511
Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067-8247 Orlando, FL 32854-7511
619-756-1012 V/TDD 407-682-2535 V/TDD

NC Regional Center NE Regional Center
4989 State Route 37 East P.O. Box 205
Delaware, OH 43015-9682 Farmingdale, NY 11735-0205
614-548-4447 V/TDD 516-694-6938 V/TDD

This organization is involved in training dogs to assist handicapped
people. They train signal dogs for the deaf, and dogs for physically
disabled or developmentally disabled persons.

Canine Companions for Independence has provided highly skilled
assistance dogs for people with disabilities since 1975. CCI started
as a small, at-home organization and has grown into a dynamic
non-profit agency with five regional centers nationwide.

A Canine Companion's specialized training starts in a volunteer puppy
raiser's home. The puppy raiser is responsible for the young dog's
care, socialization, and the teaching of basic commands. At 1.5 years
of age, the dog is returned to a CCI regional training center for
eight months of advanced training by a professional CCI instructor.
The dog is then ready for an intensive two-to-three week training camp
where its new owner learns to work with a fully trained dog.

It costs more than US$20,000 to breed, raise, and train each Canine
Companion, yet recipients pay only a US$25 application fee and US$100
for training seminar supplies. The dog is provided completely free of
charge. CCI depends entirely on donations; it does not receive
government funds. CCI also relies heavily on the dedication of its
many volunteers, who play a vital role in CCI's mission to provide
exceptional dogs for exceptional people.

The breeds CCI uses for service and social dogs are black and yellow
Labs, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Lab/Golden Retriever
mix. CCI is moving away from using German Shepherds for two reasons:
first, a lot of the public view (and fear) German Shepherds as
"police" or "guard" dogs, and second, German Shepherds bond very
strongly to people and the program is difficult on them because first
they form a strong bond to their puppy raiser, then to their trainer
when they go back to CCI, and then to their eventual handicapped
owner. For signal dogs they use Corgis and Border Collies.

CCI will work with people in need of assistance to determine if a
properly trained dog can provide that assistance. Dogs can be taught
to retrieve a variety of things -- even to distinguish between
specific items -- and to manipulate a variety of objects. Monkeys
have been tried for this purpose, as they are more dexterous.
However, they are not as reliably trainable and are very expensive, so
dogs present a much more practical alternative. Given some
extensions, such as rope handles on doors and light switches, dogs can
give a disabled person complete mobility within her or his home.

CCI finds and trains a variety of dogs for different forms of
assistance: hearing dogs, physically disabled assistant dogs, even as
therapy dogs. They are all neutered, as with guide dogs. People who
are to receive one of the dogs are required to attend a two-week
seminar to learn how to communicate and care for their assistance. As
needed, the people and their dogs are provided with permits that
identify the dogs as licensed canine companions -- this is enough to
gain entry into most places, as with the more well-known Seeing Eye
dogs.

Similar organizations include:

Canine Helpers for the Handicapped Inc
Beverly Underwood
5705 Ridge Rd
Lockport, NY 14094
(716)433-4035, voice/tty

Canine Working Companions, Inc
Pat McNamara, Director
RD 2 Box 170
Gorton Lake Road
Waterville, NY 13480
(315)861-7770 voice/tdd

D. Therapy Dogs.

Dogs are quite often used in therapy. This ranges from visiting
hospitalized people to being a companion dog for mentally handicapped
or disturbed persons. There are a variety of groups that train
therapy dogs, some local and some national. Some use the AKC Canine
Good Citizen test to choose suitable dogs, others have devised their
own Temperament Tests.

A national organization that dispenses information about therapy dogs
is the Delta Society, PO Box 1080, Renton, WA 98057, (206)226-7357.

In addition many local humane societies, breed clubs, and obedience
clubs do some hospital visitation.

RESOURCES:

*_Therapy Dog_.
Therapy dog training. A good psychology book with gentle training
methods.

Harrington, Paula. _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth.

Audio Dogs
27 Crescent Street
Brooklyn, New York 11208.
212-827-2792.

Canine Companions For Independence (CCI)
P.O. Box 446
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446
707-528-0830 V/TDD

Delta Society
(Information on Therapy Dogs)
PO Box 1080
Renton, WA 98057

Dogs for the Deaf
Applegate Behavior Station
13260 Highway 238
Jacksonville, Oregon 97530.
503-899-7177.

Fidelco Guide Dog Foundation
P.O. Box 142
Bloomfield,CT 06002
203-243-5200

Guide Dog Foundation
371 Jericho Turnpike
Smithtown, New York 11787.
516-265-2121.

Handi-Dogs, Inc.
PO Box 12563
Tucson, Arizona 85732.
602-326-3412 or 602-325-6466.

Hearing Dog, Inc.
Agnes McGrath, Director
5901 E. 89 Ave.,
Henderson, Colorado 80640.
303-287-3277 (voice/tty).

New England Assistance Dog Service (NEADS)
P.O. Box 213
West Boylston
Massachusetts 01583.
508-835-3304 (TT/voice).
Verified May '92.

San Francisco SPCA
Hearing Dog Program
2500 16th Street
San Francisco, CA 94103.
415-554-3020.
Verified March '92.

E. More Information.

* Cen/SHARE (Center for the Study of Human-Animal Relationships and
their Environments) is a privately & publically funded center
utilizing faculty from Vet Med and Psychology. They do quite a
bit of research and education, including studies of service dogs
and their owners. The director's name is Geraldine Gage. Her
phone number is 612-625-5741. The associate director is Dr.
Joseph Quigley at 612-626-0835. The mailing address is 80 Ford
Hall, University of Minnesota, Minneapolis 55455.

"Social acknowledgements for children with disabilities: effects of
service dogs." Bonnie Mader, et.a.l. Child Development 60:6,
p1529-34.

And one more...."The Animal Preference Test and its relationship to
behavioral problems in young children." E.B. Rojas, et.al. Journal of
Personality Assessm ment 57:1, p141-8.

Pflaumer, Sharon
Seizure-alert dogs
Dog World 77(l): 42-43, January 1992
(the article says you can contact Reina Berner, The Epilepsy Institute,
67 Irving Place, New York, NY 10003 where a program of seizure -alerting
dogs is being developed)

Mefford, Eleanor M
Bringing Up Baby
Dog World 77(2): 36-38,39 Feb, 1992
(article is about raising dogs to be used with young children suffering
from socialization problems and language abilities problems)

Ashby, Ann Gritt
Healing war's wounds
Dog World 77(7): 40-43, July 1992
(article is about using animals as therapy for mentally ill veterans)

[Michael George Buening]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/rescue/part1
Version: 1.52
Laste-modified: 16 June 1993

This is the Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 1/2. It will be posted
on a regular basis and/or you can obtain the file via anonymous ftp at
rtfm.mit.edu under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1.
Or send email to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
in the body of the message leaving the subject line blank.

June 16, 1993

This is the third update of the canine rescue organizations list. Breed
specific organizations are listed first and all-breed organizations
are at the end. All the lines that are preceeded with a "||" are the
ones containing either new information or important corrections with
respect to version 1.50. Also, Kathryn Whitworth has placed the
whole of the rescue FAQ's in Word Perfect 5.1 format and has graciously
allowed me to tell you to email her at kathryn_...@ccmail.radian.com
to get a copy of it. It is in Helvetica font and runs about 22 pages
long. Thanks Kathryn. All the rec.pets.dogs FAQ's are also mirrored at
nowaksg.chem.nd.edu and can be found in the /pub/dogs-faq directory via
anonymous ftp.

THANKS TO THOSE WHO DESERVE IT:
Susan Mudgett and Eric Johansson have been keeping a list of
New England Rescue Organizations for quite some time. They
graciously sent me a hard copy of their list so that I could include
all of those addresses and phone numbers in this listing. If you wish
to contact them directly concerning the New England area specifically,
they have listed their phone number in their own CRL (canine rescue list):
508-667-0137. Many thanks to Susan and Eric.

Secondly, Marget Johnson sent me so much stuff she had to include
extra postage on the envelope. Most of the information Marget
provided me has been submitted to various dog related journals so
this information may be available in your local library as well.
Many thanks to Marget too.

Thirdly, Colleen Englemann sent me a listing of rescue organizations
from the "Bay Area". I am not from California but I have been told that
this means the San Francisco Bay area, so if you live near there these
listings are for you. I have included the text "baylist" by these because
many of them are just phone numbers without the name of the person.
This doesn't mean you shouldn't call, I just don't know what the name
of the person you will talk to is. If you do call and get a name then
let me know so I can include it here.

Fourthly, although all of those I have talked to have encouraged me
to finish this list one person in particular seemed to be very
interested and has kept me in good spirits. Suzanne Sims and her
dog Min are always such a joy to talk to so I wanted to thank them
as well.

Cindy Tittle Moore (those of you who read r.p.d. regularly
know her well) has been of great help both at the beginning and the
end of this project. Her expertise in FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs is
greatly appreciated.

Dominique Anfossi has provided all the Canadian information so thanks to
him and thanks to Kathryn Whitworth for typesetting these files in WP5.1
format. (See above)

This list is for the dogs, literally :-) All of the poor animals that
have been abandoned for whatever reasons. So many of you are caring
people and take these dogs in and care for them until they can find kind
caring homes where they really belong. I believe there is a home for
all dogs and I hope a few dogs can find those homes through my meager
efforts.

DISCLAIMER:
I have no experience with any of these groups. I have no experience with
rescuing a dog. I simply wanted to make this list available to you. So,
I must say that I am not specifically endorsing any of these people/groups
but I am endorsing the idea of rescuing a dog for a pet.

Let me take this opportunity to point out to you that there is a book
published with a complete listing of breed rescue organizations available.
I have not yet read this book but here is the citation:

Project BREED
(Breed Rescue Efforts & EDucation)
Vol. 1, No. 1, copyright 1989
291 pages
Published by: Network for Ani-males & Females, Inc.
Germantown, MD 20874
(301) 428-3675

If you need more information, a more complete listing, or other
information about rescue I am told it is all in there.

TAKING AT LEAST A LITTLE RESPONSIBILITY :-) :
All complaints and errors should be brought to my immediate attention.
I will have to depend on those in netland to keep me up to date.
If you notice I have left out someone in your favorite breed then
please tell me. If I have included someone that no longer serves in
this capacity tell me so I can delete them from the list. Otherwise
keep this packed away in your files somewhere and pull it out when
someone asks you about getting a new dog. Rescues can be such good
pets for so many people so don't automatically assume everyone needs
a puppy. (You may find the best puppy here as well!)

Sincerely,

Michael Buening
mi...@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
mi...@sanger.biocore.nd.edu
Ph: 219-287-9885 (home)
Ph: 219-631-4011 (lab)
___________________________________________________________________

Affenpinscher
Affenpinscher Club of America
Nancy Holmes
51 Weare Rd.
New Boston, NH 03070
603-487-2156

Afghan Hound
Afghan Hound Club of America, Inc.
Judith S. Fellton, chairperson
219 Johnson Ferry Rd.
Marietta, GA 30068
404-971-1533
notes: Information and guidelines available. Nationwide
coordination. Club will furnish financial assistance for
spay, neuter and health check.

Afghan Hound Rescue of Southern California
Andrea Augustine
8567 Holloway Drive #1
West Hollywood, CA 90069
310-657-8237

Lucy Orlowski
614-369-4080

Afghan Hound Club of Northern New Jersey Rescue
Bob and Nancy Check
RD 2, 999 Walcutt
Basking Ridge, NJ 07920

Delores A. Masker
15 Cedar Street
Lincoln Park, NJ 07035

Afghan Hound Association of Long Island
Pat Marinaccio
43 Chapel Hill Drive, N.
Brentwood, NY 11717
516-231-6457

Afghan Hound Club of Oklahoma City
Shari Mason
122 Richard Terrace
Mustang, OK 73064
405-376-2929

Richmond Afghan Hound Club
Holly Jorgensen
Rt. 1, Box 235D
Bealeton, VA 22712
703-439-2239

Claudia Edgell
617-729-2153

baylist: 415-924-7020

Airedale Terrier
Airedale Terrier Club of America Rescue Committee
Joey Fineran, chairman
215-294-8028 (PA)
June Dutcher, co-chairman
714-827-8013 (CA)
notes: contact either for reference to rescue persons
in all areas

Airedale Rescue & Adoption Service
Candy Kramlich
914-686-9217 (7:30 - 11p.m. on weekdays or anytime weekends)
Karen Stefkovich or Dave Pasake
201-827-7022
This group requires: all family members must want the dog;
no outside only dogs, i.e. must have run of the house;
must have fence, unless you live in an apartment
renters must have landlord permission (an excellent idea!)

Marlene Kotchey
313-485-8098

Airedale Terrier Club of Greater Philadelphia
Ben McCarthy
1737 Division Highway
Narvon, PA 17555
717-354-7646
717-656-9391

Airedale Terrier Club of Metropolitan Washington, DC
Lou Swafford
13108 Greenmount Ave.
Beltsville, MD 20705
301-572-7116

Airedale Terrier Club of Metropolitan New York
Linda Handford
Box 441
Wurtsboro, NY 12790
914-888-4944

Airedale Terrier Club of New England
Judi Foote
681 Congress St.
Duxbury, MA 02332
617-837-2454

California Airedale Terrier Club
Liz Younger
4705 Mayfield Dr.
Fremont, CA 94536
415-795-6870

Southern California Airedale Association
Ruth Millington
7895 Dusty Lane
Somis, CA 93066
805-987-2277
Wisconsin Airedale Terrier Club
Myrtle Huffer
2863 N. Humblodt Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53212
414-562-4299

Airedale Terrier Club of New England
Judy Foote
617-837-2454
Regina Foley
617-329-9751

Airedale Terrier Club of America Rescue & Adoption Committee
Lynne Jensen
1180 Hopewell Road
Downington, PA 19335

Akita
Judy Furlong
419-474-7006

Greater Baltimore Akita Club
Barbara Davis
908 Rolandvue Rd.
Ruxton, MD 21204
301-823-6939

Newton Kennel Club (Akitas)
Tom and Beverly Bonadonna
RD 3, Box 1
Branchville, NJ 07826
201-948-4551

Vivien Miller
203-447-0720
Connecticut

Akita Rescue Society of America
Barbara Bouyet
237 Venus Street
Thousand Oaks, CA 91360

Bay area list: 415-756-5590

Alaskan Malamute
Alaskan Malamute Club of Greater Houston
Holly Mason
16103 Sealiner
Houston, TX 77062
713-480-6203

Alaskan Malamute Club of America
Virginia DeVaney
P.O. Box 170
Cedar Crest, NM 87008 NOTICE: version 1.00 had this in Minnesota
505-281-3961

Alaskan Malamute Rescue of California
Wendy Corr
415-538-1529
Tina Dunn, rescue coordinator
5040 Barnard Street
Simi Valley, CA 93063
805-583-8280
Valerie White
805-526-0165
notes: "We rescue and house, abused, unwanted or abandoned
Alaskan Malamutes. All of our rescued Malamutes are spayed
or neutered, health checked, vaccinated and temperament
tested before they are relocated in suitable, adoptive
homes. If you would like information or wish to provide a
loving home to a homeless Malamute....Please contact us.
Donations greatly appreciated.

Alaskan Malamute Protection League
P.O. Box 170
Cedar Crest, NM 87008
505-281-3961
notes: This organization is a National Information
Network servicing individuals and Rescue Organizations working
for the Alaskan Malamute. State coordinators
provide information from and to a National file.

Jan Smith
203-649-0079
Connecticut

Theresa Hawley
508-667-6008

Susan Conant
617-965-5542

Kay Howard
508-785-1853

Patrick Smith
413-848-2121
Western Massachusetts

Sally Boggs
207-647-5707
Maine

Joan Bastura
802-722-9759
Vermont

baylist: Andy Gach
1621 Christina Dr.
Las Altos, CA 94022

American Eskimo
Debbie Ritchie
413-862-3329
Western Massachusetts

Australian Cattle Dog
Australian Cattle Dog Club of America
Judith Ransom
P.O. Box 594
Lithia Springs, GA 30057
404-944-7562

Australian Kelpie
Jo Ann Weller
303-659-6832

Jan Wesen
206-766-6808
Washington

Australian Shepherd
Kathy McDonald
305-373-1908

Don Rowan
301-937-3349
Maryland

Australian Terrier
Barbera Curtis
939 Lochness Court
Ft. Collins, CO 80524
303-482-9163

Margaret Reignier
414-468-1796

Debra Austin
716-763-1536
New York

Basenji
Karen Butler
313-669-5943

Jennifer Hampton
313-475-8825

Basenji Club of Northern California
Margaret Hoff
191 Butterfield Rd.
San Anselmo, CA 94960
415-453-2510

Basenji Club of Southeastern Wisconsin
Pat Wand
3636 N. 100th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53222
414-466-6478

Dallas-Ft. Worth Basenji Club
Linda Coker
321 Birchwood Dr.
Garland, TX 75043
214-681-7129

Nancy Sullivan
703-830-2710
Virginia

Iris Craven
301-875-2449
Maryland

Cathy Cant
301-627-3123
Maryland

baylist: Margaret Hoff
191 Butterfield Rd.
San Anselmo, CA 94960

Delaware Valley Basenji Club
Mark Baime
908-580-9212
New Jersey

Basset Hound
Emerald Empire Basset Hound Rescue
Kathy Karppinen
2080 SW 187th
Aloha, OR 97006
503-642-1519

Northern California Basset Hound Club
|| Ruth Wilcox
|| 510-562-1906

Pilgram Basset Hound Club
Barbara Boudreau
21 Podunk Road
Sturbridge, MA 01566
508-347-3207

Berkshire Valley Basset Hound Club
Barbara Wicklund
1737 Route 206
Skillman, NJ 08558
201-281-6532

Kirk Joiner
617-984-0667 (after 6)

Kris Pellom
801-566-5590

Basset Hound Club of B.C.
Miss Anna Phillips, President
17 James St.
Strathroy, ON N7G 1S6
(519) 245-1358

Beagle
SOS Beagle Rescue
Linda Forrest
1286 Smithville Road
Bordentown, NJ 08505
609-267-5157
"Purebred Beagles for adoption. Vet checked, loving compainions
and adoption application required."

Blossom Valley Beagle Club
Mary Powell & Trudi Reveira
1015 Reed Ave.
Sunnyvale, CA 94086
408-244-1840

Mandy Cronin
804-929-4454

baylist: 408-244-1848

Bearded Collie
Mark Ropersburg
882-4773

Bearded Collie Club of America
Paul Glatzer
10 Eden Drive
Smithtown, NY 11787
516-724-0871
or Chantal Bailey
771 SW 121 St.
Davie, FL 33325
305-475-0095

Barbara Marshall
617-275-0637

baylist: Ann Angevin Allen
87 Claire Way
Tiburon, CA 94920

Beauceron
Susan Bulanda
215-323-8022
Pennsylvania

Claudia Batson
804-293-4037
Virginia

Bedlington Terriers
Bedlington Terrier Club of America
Judy Barton (Monte)
806 Oregon St.
Bakersfield, CA 93305
805-322-4542
805-324-1074

Belgian Malinois baylist: 408-946-2136 or 415-365-5613

Belgian Sheepdog
Belgian Sheepdog Club of America
Roy A. Elliott
Rt. 2, Box 384
Buffalo, MN 55313

Phyllis Davis
2530 Harbison Rd.
Cedarville, OH 45314
(513) 766-2654

Janet Bennett
P.O. Box 1046
Culpeper, VA 22701
703-547-3252

Sharon Roundy
708-343-3358 (This is in Illinios)

Barb Vaneseltine
619-327-9038

Marilyn Russell
207-848-5613
Maine

Kathy Greenwood
1304 Glen Oaks Ct.
Norman, Ok 73071
(405) 366-7473
(ka...@aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu)

Kathy Ellis: head of rescue committee for Belgian
Sheepdog of America club
4815 Wards Chapel Rd.
Owings Mills, MD 21117
(410) 655-3812

Belgian Tervuren
Barb Vaneseltine
619-327-9038

American Belgian Tervuren Club
Judith Lee Specht
5628 Calpine Dr.
Malibu, CA 90265
213-457-7144
or Miki Baiocchi
107 East 2nd
Georgetown, TX 78626-5013
512-863-9251
512-869-3539 (work)

Cindy Simonsen
W359 S2546 Highway 67
Dousman, WI 53118
414-965-3490

Linda Cowell
203-763-1761
Connecticut

Linda Boncek
203-881-0845
Connecticut

Don McManus
413-467-9881
Western Massachusetts

Paula Eldridge
603-437-6231
New Hampshire

Bernese Mountain Dog
Bernese Mountain Dog Club of Nashoba Valley
Maria Hannessey
South Lee Depot
Lee (Durham), NH 03824
603-659-8339

Bernese Mountain Dog Club of Watchung
Lillian Ostermiller
P.O. Box 54
Flemington, NJ 08822
201-996-2576

Bichon Frise
Bichon Frise Club of Northern New Jersey
Anne Baird
25 Hayes Avenue
Millville, NJ 08332
609-327-2544

National Bichon Frise Rescue Trust
Nancy McDonald
14303 Spring Maple Lane
Houston, TX 77063

Bishon Frise Club of America
Laura Fox
9108 Windsor Dr.
Palos Hill, IL 60465
312-599-9199

Bichon Frise Club of Greater Houston
Carolyn Messner
10702 Burgonyne Rd.
Houston, TX 77042

Bichon Frise Club of San Diego
Betty Ribble
13035 Via Caballo Rojo
San Diego, CA 92129
619-556-6578

Greater New York Bichon Frise Fanciers
Eleanor Grossick
41 Audrey Ave.
Elmont, NY
516-561-9147

Bichon Frise Club of Southern New England
Irene Libby
203-763-0547
Connecticut

Bichon Frise Club of Canada
Norma Dirszworsky, Secretary
12 Mill Pond Lane
Udora, ON L0C 1L0
(705) 228-1148

Bloodhound
American Bloodhound Club
Susan La Croix Hamil
20372 Laguna Canyon Rd.
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
714-494-1076
714-494-9506

Jim Smotrich
508-372-6200 days
508-372-0131 eves

Bloodhounds West * Breed Rescue
20372 Laguna Canyon Road
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
(714) 494-9506

Border Collie
Nancy Broderick
312-841-8344

Janet Larson
603-868-5313
New Hampshire

Border Terrier
North American Border Terrier Welfare
Robert Cowell
203-334-3025
Connecticut

baylist: Jim Kane
5509 Blank Rd.
Sebastapol, CA 95472

Borzoi
Borzoi club of California
Margaret Jemison
(Orange Cty.)
6292 Shayne Dr.
Huntington Beach, CA 92647
714-846-4192
or
Judith Lofgren (L.A.)
213-540-9695

Borzoi Club of Delaware Valley
Debbie Carcillo
1407 Rising Sun Ave.
Parkland, PA 19047
215-757-2487

Borzoi Rescue of Northern California
Jacquieline Gregory
P.O. Box 733
Somerset, CA 95684
209-245-6994

Puget Sound Borzoi Club
Lita Bond
13106 SE 304th
Auburn, WA 98002
206-833-5876

Ted Turchin
603-964-8514
New Hampshire
(also other sighthounds)

Susan Caulkins
515-842-7333

baylist: Jacqueline Gregory
PO Box 773
2200 Wolfhound Rd.
Somerset, CA 95648

Boston Terrier
Boston Terrier Club of Milwaukee
Dr. Myles Notaro
2925 South 10th St.
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414-482-1633

Detroit Boston Terrier Club
Barbara Lohringel
696 Merrimac
Canton, MI 48188
313-397-8982
or Mira Jilbert
2082 Butterfield
Troy, MI 48084
313-643-7282

Lenape Boston Terrier Club
Alma Bettencourt
41 Main Rd.
Flanders, NJ 07836
201-584-9485

Minuteman Boston Terrier Rescue
Betty Foerster
617-323-7966

Alice Krawczyk
401-245-6308
Rhode Island

Boston Terrier Club of Canada
Doreen Jones, Secretary
7127 5th St. S.W.
Calgary, AB T2V 1B2
(403) 259-3295

baylist: Nancy Ford
10520 Baywood Ct.
Cupertino, CA 95014

Bouvier Des Flandres
American Bouvier des Flanders Club, Inc.
Ralph Goldman Memorial Fund
American Bouvier Rescue League
Jacqueline R. Crowe, committee chair
1880 West 11800 South
South Jordan, Utah 84065
801-254-0462

Bouvier des Flanders Club of SE Michigan
Sandra Jarrell
5522 Lake Vista
Pontiac, MI 48054
313-881-0200
313-681-5652

Northeastern Illinois Bouvier des Flanders
Candice Lutz
210 Hazelwood Dr.
Lindenhurst, IL 60046
312-356-0084

Maureen Patterson
508-358-6657

Ken Westphal
617-979-0854

Debbie Goldstein
703-786-2346
Virginia

Nancy Woodley (Rescue Chairman for the SouthEast)
3114 Wilson Road
Decatur, GA 30030
404-723-1273

Boxer
Boxer Rescue Service, Inc.
Jean Loubriel
90 Holland Ave.
Demarest, NJ 07627
201-786-6627
notes: "Rescue on average as many as three Boxers a week.
There is coverage of shelters, kennels, pounds and
veterinarian's offices looking for the distressed Boxer
Puppy and Adult."

Jill Dennis
313-652-3178

Bluebonnet Boxer Club
Stephania Jinks
1210 Magnolia Lane
Kingwood, TX 77339
713-359-4255
or Jinna Dunn
P.O. Box 8732
Grangerland, TX 77302
408-231-3873

Greater Miami Boxer Club
Elizabeth McCann
3601 NW 35th Way
Lauderdale Lakes, FL 33309
305-484-3076

Pacific Northwest Boxer Club
Bill and Sarah McNary
9006 184th SE
Snohomish, WA 98290
206-483-9358

Boxer Rescue Service, Inc.
Michele McArdle
203-853-9595
Connecticut

baylist: 415-383-1065

Briard
Jack Wynne, U.S. & Canada
321 Central
Inkster, MI 48141
313-729-7590
Briard Club of America
Mary Bloom
53-07 Douglaston Parkway
Douglaston, NY 11362
718-224-5275

Judith Pratt
603-464-3216
(referral only)

Judy Ziozios
517-790-9590

Brittany
Aloha Brittany Club
Dimi Poser
P.O. Box 78
Waianae, HI 96792

Missouri Brittany Club
Dave White
12012 W. 150th Circle
Olathe, KS 66062
913-897-3822

Joanne Godin
603-898-1746
New Hampshire

Brussels Griffon
NBGC Rescue
Marjorie Simon, breed rescue chairman
25 Windermere
Houston, TX 77063
713-783-8887

Betty Dickey
517-792-6275

Linda Knight
703-364-2068
Virginia

baylist: Joan Guest
860-862 Old County Rd.
Belmont, CA 94002

Bulldog
Bulldog Club of Texas
Brandy Nunciato
17719 Heritige Creek Drive
Webster, TX 77598

Bulldog Club of Denver
Sandra Coffman
6917 W. Frost Pl.
Littleton, CO 80123
303-979-6460

Bulldog Club of Northern California
Pat Ropp
132 Blueberry Hill
Los Gatos, CA 95030
408-356-0039

San Antonio Bulldog Club
Dr. Jim Young and Diana Young
7508 Marbach Rd.
San Antonio, TX 78227
512-673-8020
512-340-0055

Donna Marcham
617-335-2809
(referral only)

Bullmastiff
The American Bullmastiff Association
Mary Walsh 690 E. 8th St.
S. Boston, MA 02127
617-268-0359
HOTLINE: 508-939-5300

Barbara Brant
313-437-3314

Virginia Rowland
508-939-5300

Bull Terrier
Bull Terrier Club of America
Bill Edwards
1526 Belleau Rd.
Glendale, CA 91206
818-956-1170

Bull Terrier Club of Metro Detroit
Sharon Whalen
7185 Gillette
Flushing, MI 48433
313-659-5951

Bull Terrier Club of New England
Kathy Brosnan
P.O. Box 634
Kingston, NH 03848
603-642-5355

Bull Terrier Club of St. Louis
Jeff Clinebell, D.V.M.
Columbia Animal Hospital
Columbia, IL 62236
618-281-7161

Central New Jersey Bull Terrier Club
Corinne Gliozzi
31 Bloomfield Ave.
Somerset, NJ 08873
201-214-0170

Barbary Coast Bull Terrier Club
Shari A. Mann
1241 27th Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-564-9335

Blue Ridge Bull Terrier Club
Cheryl Yost
4401 Manor Hall Lane
Fairfax, VA 22033
703-378-5373

David Weber
Rt. 3 Box 162
Charlottesville, VA 22901
804-971-9668

Buckeye Bull Terrier Club (Northern Ohio)
Kayla Applebaum
2765 Som Cntr. Rd.
Huntington Valley, OH 44022
216-464-0396

Same as above but Southern Ohio
Carolyn Kramer
4611 Manchester Rd.
New Middletown, OH 45042
513-424-4909

Bull Terrier Club of America
Randy and Jan Bisgaard
1173 N. Westmoreland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
213-667-0582

Bull Terrier Club of Canada (Alberta Div.)
Tom O'Conner
Box 5958, Station A
Calgary, Alberta, T24 1Y4
Canada
403-936-5501

Bull Terrier Club of Puget Sound
Linda Owings-Rosenburgh
7033 52nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115
206-865-7539

Bull Terrier Club of Tampa Bay
Sandra Hill-Cowen
2810 Crystal Court
Coconut Grove, FL 33153
305-858-3827

Ft. Dearborn Bull Terrier Club
Katherine Ross
151 Saemann Rd.
Chesterton, IN 46304
219-926-6959

Golden Triangle Bull Terrier Club
Betty Desmond
R.D. 2, Box 315
Claysville, PA 15323
412-663-5345

Mile High Bull Terrier Club
Mark and Diane Haller-Campbell
3446 Longview Rd.
Erie, CO 80226
303-828-3027

Dee Garrison
1070 E. Eaton St.
Lakewood, CO 80226
303-935-2791

Bull Terrier Club Of New England
Christine St. Cyr
617-867-4017

Kathy Brosnan
603-642-5355
New Hampshire

Charlene Rogers
203-747-6397
Connecticut

Bull Terrier Welfare and Rescue
Norma
800-BT-BT-911

Cairn Terrier
Sue Millward
313-429-4068

Cairn Terrier Club of America
Betty Marcum
Rt. 3, Box 78
Alvarado, TX 76009
817-783-5979 co-chairs: Sue DeWitt
203-846-3345
Lynne Nabors
314-773-8712

Cairn Terrier Club of Denver
Nancy Cassel
795 Spanish Bit Dr.
Colorado Springs, CO 80921
719-488-3195

Cairn Terrier Club of Northern California
Bobbie Walker
P.O. Box 2177
Mill Valley, CA 94442
415-388-6708

Cairn Terrier Club of Southern California
Karen Smith
889 El Paisano Dr.
Fallbrook, CA 92028
619-728-7133

Potomac Cairn Terrier Club
Lynda Hammel
12027 Sugarland Valley Dr.
Herndon, VA 22070
703-471-7769

Nancy Barrett
617-583-0458

Cardigan Welsh Corgi -see Welsh Corgi Cardigan

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Babs Murdock
207-829-4436
Maine

Debbi Baker
617-784-8038

Patricia Hutchins
517-686-1396

Chihuahua
Chihuahua Club of B.C.
Edna St. Hilaire
2114 Dublin St.
New Westminster, BC V3M 3A9
(604) 521-0922

Chinese Shar Pei
Chinese Shar-Pei Club of the Raritan Valley Rescue
254 Hillside Ave.
Cranford, NJ 07016
908-276-4355

Edward Yee
617-262-2776

Charlene Rogers
203-747-6397
Connecticut

Chinese Shar Pei Rescue
617-524-8368

Chow Chow
Chow Chow Club Rescue
Chris Cameron
209-733-8738
Barbara Malone
201-872-9253
Dr. J.A. DeBlois
319-359-9208
see also: Vicki Rodenberg below

Elaine Albert
516-361-9496

Chow Chow Club of Greater Houston
Shirley Gooch
P.O. Box 1593
Houston, TX 77251-1593
713-453-7834

Wisconsin Chow Chow Club
Vicki Rodenberg
9828 E. Co. A
Janesville, WI 53546
608-756-2008

Mt. Hood Chow Chow Club
Joyce Hay
8455 S.E. Orchard Lane
Portland, OR 97266
503-774-5127

Rita Enwright
508-688-7288
(referrals only)

baylist: Ellen Prior
6095 Springer Way
San Jose, CA 95123

Clumber Spaniel
Clumber Spaniel Rescue Committee
c/o Janna Glasser
40 Crosshill Road
Hartsdale, NY 10530
914-428-4582

Vikki Lucas
407-696-2338

Cocker Spaniel - See also English Cocker Spaniel
Bay Cities Cocker Spaniel Club
Vera Sill
110 Yellowood Pl.
Pittsburg, CA 94565

Gerry Foss
603-547-3363 (eves & weekends)
New Hampshire

Anne Lindsay
617-241-8211

baylist: Ann Norton
237 Santa Lucia Ave. #5
San Bruno, CA 94006

Collie
Marty Hamlin
Collie Rescue League
17604 Parkridge Drive
Gaithersburg, Maryland 20878

Lee Patton
313-522-8405

Collie Club of America
Carol Zielke
205 N.E. 174th
Seattle, WA 98155 *I had this in Spokane?
206-367-6653

Collie Club of Colorado
LaVonne Archuletta
3226 W. Exposition Ave.
Denver, CO 80219
303-936-1519

Collie Club of Maryland
Pam Catalano
608 Plymouth Rd.
Baltimore, MD 21229
301-747-0296

Collie Club of Western Pennsylvania
Cheryl Flora
132 Church Lane
Pittsburg, PA 15238
412-767-7033

Pacific Northwest Collie Club
Glenda Kelly
44615 NW Elk Mnt. Rd.
Banks, OR 97106
503-324-1872
or
Theresa Uzelac
10685 NW McDaniel Rd.
Portland, OR 97229
503-641-4619

Toledo Collie Club
Kathy Foley
5434 Armada Dr.
Toledo, OH 43623
419-472-4638
or Carol Lamb
147 Tunnicliffe Rd.
Petersburg, MI 49207
313-856-2072

Tuscon Collie Club
Jean Malone
7066 Calle Centuri
Tuscon, AZ 85710
602-790-0317

Collie Rescue Southern California
Cookie Routman
909 15th St., Apt. E
Santa Monica, CA 90403
213-395-6496 (Los Angeles)
805-255-5777 (Saugus, Lancaster)
805-524-4542 (Ventura County)
805-969-5548 (Santa Barbara County)

Collie Rescue League of Massachusetts
Mary Lenertz
P.O. Box 45
Harvard, MA 01451
617-456-8473

Collie Rescue League of Metro, Washington, Inc.
Kay Richter, Secretary
9202 Honey Creeper Ct.
Burke, VA 22015
Martha Handman, President
7433 Sportsman Dr.
Falls Church, VA 22043

Collie Rescue of South Eastern Pennsylvania
P.O. Box 1307
Willow Grove, PA 19090
Lynn Wolkiewicz
215-335-3544
Linda Knouse
215-659-3331

Tri-County Collie Rescue, Michigan
Carol Fox
5955 Mayburn
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
313-277-2320

Collie Rescue League Of Mass., Inc.
508-660-1928

Andria Sobczak
401-726-1688
Rhode Island

The following is a list of names and phone numbers
for Collie Rescue given to me by Holly Kruse. I
removed any names that already appear before this
list (there was only one, Marilee Larson):

AZ: Patrick Martin, 602/948-1503
CA: Kay Bedeau, 916/423-1732]
CO: Susan Murphy, 303/659-7875
CT: Nancy Connor, 413/367-2182
Darlene Ferris, 203/877-2431
IL: Anne Rice, 708/940-1596
Jan Ziech, 815/475-7143
KY: Christine Schroth, 606/586-5750
LA: Carolyn Donner, 504/391-0151
MA: Nancy Connor (see CT)
MD: Barbara Bernhardt, 301/236-9294
ME: Claire Marx, 207/892-3118
MI: Megan Veen, 313/664-2548
MO: Cecily Barker, 314/567-6289
NC: Claudia Aaron-Sneed, 919/791-2518
NH: Beth Michaud, 603/424-5436
NJ: Anna Jones, 908/464-5720
Marge Lippman, 201/962-4173
NY: Christine Wayman, 518/734-3179
OH: Nonda Jones, 216/235-4197
Ruth White, 412/443-6248
OR: Pam Beery, 503/246-0688
PA: Sandy Fisher, 215/932-2777
Doug Miller, 717/382-4086
Ruth White (see OH)
TX: Marion Pahy, 512/494-0389
Bettina Whyte, 713/661-2052
VA: Teresa Warner, 703/528-7349
WI: Marge Hohman, 414/734-6734
E. Ann Buck, 715/344-8533

baylist: 707-445-3685

Corgi -see Welsh Corgi

Dachshund
Western Pennsylvania Dachshund Club
Kathryn Daniels
1319 E. Hookstown
Grade Rd.
RD #1
Clinton, PA 15026
412-378-7858

San Diego Dachshund Club
Dorothy Shelton
4496 Trias St.
San Diego, CA 92120
619-296-036

Eastern Canada Dachshund Club
Pat Kearney, Secretary
P.O. Box 151
Pakenham, ON K0A 2X0
(613) 624-5608

Joan Dubuc
413-743-4400
Western Massachusetts

Carolyn Smith
508-679-2529

Lori Eden
312-965-4666

baylist: 408-253-8153

Dalmatian
Dalmatian Adoption League & Rescue
Barb Gunnage, president
D.A.L. Rescue Svc.
20472 Purlingbrook
Livonia, MI 48152
313-471-3487
Mike Harper, VP
313-383-5483

Dalmatian Club of Northern California
Joe Immerman
639 Prentiss St.
San Francisco, CA 94110 415-282-6929

Dalmatian Club of Greater St. Louis
June Mueller
3208 Brisolhall Ct.
Bridgeton, MO 63044
314-739-8682

Delaware Valley Dalmatian Club
Donna Howard
218 E. King Street
Malvern, PA 19355
215-853-2839
or Susan Hlavacek
215-647-8884

Dalmatian Club of Southern New England
Carolyn Mullins
203-421-4704
Connecticut

Dandie Dinmont Terrier
Douglas Young
614-869-4243

Dandie Dinmount Terrier Club of America
Evelyn Ammerman
312 Hoffnagle St.
Philadelphia, PA 19111
215-742-6933
215-742-6268

Doberman Pinscher
The Doberman Pinscher Club of Michigan
Greater Detroit Area
Maggie Hillard, sec DPCM
496 Emmons Blvd.
Wyandotte, MI 48192
313-284-2549

Aztec Doberman Pinscher Club of San Diego
Angie Monteleon
9821 Dunbar Lane
El Cajon, CA 92021
619-443-8944

Cabrillo Doberman Pinscher Club
Betty Smith
25510 Carmel Knolls
Carmel, CA 93923
408-625-0366
or Sandra F. Wood
158 Garlin Rd.
Watsonville, CA 95076
408-724-7005

California-Sierra Doberman Pinscher Club
R. Dallara
P.O. Box 3058
San Bernardino, CA 92413
714-884-9604

Doberman Pinscher Breeders Association of Penn-Jersey
Pat Adriano
40 Broad Ave.
Edison, NJ 08820
201-494-0951

Doberman Pinscher Club of America
Judith Fellton
219 Johnson Ferry Rd.
Marietta, GA 30067
404-971-1533

Doberman Pinscher Club of Rocky Mountain Area
Nancy Melichar
8358 W. 62nd Pl.
Arvada, CO 80004
303-421-9074

Mt. Hood Doberman Pinscher Club
Pat McMillian 3123 SE 129th Ave.
Portland, OR 97236
503-761-2455

Puget Sound Doberman Pinscher Club
Julianne Ferado
P.O. Box 58455
Renton, WA 98058
206-226-4810

Quaker City Doberman Pinscher Club
Pam Gutekunst
One Melvin Road
Phoenixville, PA 19460
215-935-0822

Santa Ana Valley Doberman Pinscher Club
Jane Menz
1119 S. Clarence
Anaheim, CA 92806
714-956-2685

Tucson Doberman Pinscher Club
Sharon Crissey
4948 La Canada
Tucson, AZ 85705
602-888-9116

Doberman Rescue Unlimited, Inc.
508-454-9791

New Hampshire Doberman Rescue League
Norma Guronskas
207-457-1329
Maine

Paul McTigue
207-947-7274
Maine

Barbara Burns
508-256-5776

Sherry Bovinet
603-357-3533
New Hampshire(also Vermont referrals)

Fran Robinson
203-653-4124
Connecticut

D. & F. Bloomberg
508-373-0388

Judy Staven
401-683-5516
Rhode Island

Patti & Henry Clark
203-426-3154
Connecticut

Robin Tardiff
603-382-9664
New Hampshire

Joanne Bugai
203-349-3788
Connecticut

baylist: 408-734-5834 or 707-448-3850

English Bulldog -see Bulldog

English Bull Terrier -see Bull Terrier

English Cocker Spaniel -see also Cocker Spaniel

English Cocker Spaniel Club of America
Marsha T. Wallace, M.D.
607 Wayne St.
Alexandria, VA 22301
or 6232 N. 18th Rd.
Arlington, VA 22205
703-548-7641
703-241-5422

Mrs. Doty
508-897-3883

English Pointer -see Pointer

English Setter
Golden Gate English Setter Club
M.A. Samuelson
21680 Fortini Rd.
San Jose, CA 95120
408-997-2605
408-354-7205

Cheryl Rudolph
508-668-0954

English Springer Spaniel
Eastern English Springer Spaniel Hotline
English Springer Spaniel Rescue
P.O. Box 107
Dunstable, MA 01827
617-237-4751

Hellen Rae Thomas
Everettville, WV 26533
304-278-7657
304-278-7708

baylist: 408-255-8436 or 408-779-2739

English Toy Spaniel
Sue Kisielewski
Route 1, Box 245-X
Monroe, VA 24574
804-946-2417

Fila Brasileiro
Fila Brasileiro
Rt. 1 Box 324
Zebulon, GA 30295
706-567-8085

Fila Brasileiro Registry
P.O. Box 456
Manhattan, KS 66502
913-776-5909
FAX: 913-539-6116

Finnish Spitz
Canadian Finnish Spitz Club
Kay Bunker, Treasurer
11016 - 149 St.
Edmonton, AB T5P 1M8
(403) 484-4959

Flat Coated Retriever
Joyce Reine
616-846-0773
Michigan

Fox Terrier -Smooth or Wire
Fox Terrier Club of Northern California
Judy Cullina
266 Castenada Dr.
Millbrae, CA 94030
415-329-1719 (days)
415-697-1921 (evenings)

Holly Peterson
508-663-8093
(referrals only)

Carol Wainwright
313-395-4554

Fox Terrier -Toy-see Toy Fox Terrier

French Bulldog
French Bulldog Club of America
Brenda Buckles, rescue network chair
6111 Walnut St.
Kansas City, MO 64113
816-444-3363

Judy Hoobin
508-399-7315

German Shepard Dog
German Shepherd Dog Club of Alaska
Bonnie Johnson and Christa Burg
P.O. Box 670266
Chugiak, AK 99567
907-688-2352

German Shepherd Dog Club of Minneapolis-St. Paul
Marilyn Lindsey-Miller
210 Kindross, P.O. Box 574
Willenie, MN 55090
612-426-3682

German Shepherd Dog Club of S. Nevada
Betty Zapatka
5409 Avendia Vaquero
Las Vegas, NV 89108
702-645-2721

German Shepherd Dog Club of American, Inc.
Linda Kury, rescue committee national chair
369 Drake Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051
408-247-1272

Jennifer Ayres
617-489-3747

Green Mountain German Shepherd Club
Ellamea and Rex Jones
802-775-1704
Vermont

Ritter Hof Kennel
810 E. Maine Rd.
Johnson City, NY 13790
607-729-2718
Mary and Kitty Cummings

German Shorthaired Pointer
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Orange County
Karen Detterich
P.O. Box 818
Mira Loma, CA 91752
714-359-6960

Laura Grose
508-664-6217

Linda Flynn
617-698-2542
(referral only)

Alison J. Lavitt
13532 Elgers Street
Cerritos, CA 90701
213-921-1345

Katahdin German Shorthaired Pointer Club of New England
603-887-2093 New Hampshire
207-729-5838 Maine
508-582-7325

baylist: 415-493-2555

German Wirehair Pointer
German Wirehair Pointer Club of America
Carol L. Stuart
RD 2, Box 182
Altoona, PA 16601
814-943-4045

Seattle-Tacoma German Wirehaired Pointer Club
Laura Myles
22730 Echo Lake Rd.
Snohomish, WA 98290
206-481-3371

German Wirehair Pointer Club of America
Linda Strathman
508-249-8360

Giant Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-Giant

Golden Retriever
Golden Retriever Rescue, Education and Traning,Inc. (GRREAT)
P.O. Box 2070
Ellicott City, MD 21043

Norcal Golden Retriever Rescue
510-262-0597
This is an answering machine with numbers for foster homes
holding Golden's in Northern California.

Golden Retriever
Cathy Leonard, President
P.O. Box 20073 Beverley Postal Outlet
Edmonton, AB T5W 5E6
(403) 436-2537

Kathy Carbone
301-788-0180

Tricia Robson
301-442-2213

Mary Jane Shervais
703-791-5708

Pat Coats
313-588-5874

Golden Retriever Club of Greater Los Angeles
Margo Smith
2112 East Oakdale Street
Pasadena, CA 91107
818-449-4262

Golden Retriever Rescue and Placement Program
Laura Culp
Raleigh, NC
919-469-8563 (leave message)

Golden Retriever Club of Greater Toledo
Linda Copti
1023 Keeler St.
Maumee, OH 43537
419-893-9833

Greater Twin Cities Golden Retriever Club
Ardis Brown
1960 Midland Hills Road
Roseville, MN 55113
612-631-0984

Long Island Golden Retriever Club
Donna Sievers
Oak
Riverhead, NY 11901
516-727-6306

Rio Grande Valley Golden Retriever Club
Linda Atwell
6516 Esther, NE
Albuqureque, NM 87109
505-821-9471

Triad Golden Retriever Club of Central North Carolina
Lynn Brogan
6709 West Friendly Ave.
Greensboro, NC 27410
919-292-9365

Yankee Golden Retriever Rescue, Inc.
P.O. Box 104
North Redding, MA 01864
508-975-4091

The Golden Retriever Club of Greater Los Angles, Inc.
Nancy Talbott
5050 West Avenue L
Quartz Hills, CA 93563
805-943-2731

baylist: Steve Southard
408-723-3348

Southeastern Virginia Branch of GRREAT
(Golden Retriever Rescue, Education, And Training, Inc.)
P.O. Box 8014
Yorktown, VA 23693
(804) 827-8561
Serving Northeastern NC to Richmond, VA

Lisa Blasco
312-665-9712

Gordon Setter
TarTan Gordon Setter Club
Natalie Haberman
42 Edmunds Rd.
Wellesly, MA 02181
617-237-3127

Tartan Gordon Setter Club (again)
Wendy Abelman
617-784-8806

The Gordon Setter Club of America Rescue Committee
Crystal Todor, chair
47 Taylor Blair Road
West Jefferson, OH 43162
614-879-8405

Sally Walker
313-627-2778

Great Dane
|| Heidi Hoover
|| 215-375-7865
|| Pennsylvania

Pat Gorney
313-631-4018

Great Dane Club Mid-South
Darcy Quinlan
5363 Franklin Goldmine
Cummings, GA 30130
404-887-4417

Janice Tetrault
518-279-1417
Albany, NY

Lee Ann Cogdill
716-792-9929
Brockton, NY

Great Dane Club of America
Marie A. Fint
442 Country View Lane
Garland, TX 75043
214-279-1016
Pookie Kostuk, chairman
P.O. Box 2015
Cheshire, Conn. 06410
203-272-8292

Great Dane Club of California
Florence Treseder
8660 Telfair
Sun Valley, CA 90352
818-767-0757

Great Dane of El Paso
Esther Scoggins
6643 Westside Dr.
El Paso, TX 79932
915-877-2042

Great Dane Club of Greater Houston
Georgia Thomas
14123 Panhandle
Sugar Land, TX 77478
713-491-7625

Great Dane Club of Greater Kansas City
Glenda Burns
6321 Woodward
Shawnee Mission, KS 66202
913-432-2518

Great Dane Club of Maryland
Helen Baker
P.O. Box 21037
Baltimore, MD 21228
301-747-5974

Great Dane Club of Mid-Florida
Kevin Kavanaugh
8800 Erie Lane
Parrish, FL 34219
813-776-1094

Great Dane Club of New England
Arlene Koopmann
c/o 52 East St.
Hanover, MA 02339

Great Dane Club of San Diego
Milan Bayan
3221 Vista Cielo Lane
Spring Valley, CA 92078
619-669-1507

Great Dane Fanciers of Greater Anchorage
Toni Tadolini
3301 Cottle Loop Rd.
Wasilla, AK 99687
907-376-3915

Greater Cincinnati Great Dane Club
Donna Wright
18057 Laurel Rd. Connersville, IN 47331
317-698-3869

The Great Dane Club of Las Vegas
Mel Covert
6129 Edgewood Cr.
Las Vegas, NV 89107
702-878-2970

Willamette Valley Great Dane Club
Rhea Pearsall
5694 Keene Rd. NE
Gervais, OR 97026
503-792-3283

Gloria Barrick
11127 Plainview Rd.
Golden, CO 80403
303-642-3154

Gisele Sherwood
2652 Frontier Lane
Franktown, CO 80116
303-688-8692

Great Dane Rescue Service of New England
Arlyne Koopmann
617-784-9093

Jean MacKenzie
401-942-2094
Rhode Island

Bob & Christine Glavin
508-824-1329

baylist: Colleen Leahy
1087 Hazelwood Ave.
San Jose, CA 95115

Great Pyrenees
Michele Brown
313-598-9407

Great Pyrenees Club of Metro Milwaukee
Laura Johnston
300 Upland Ct.
Colgate, WI 53017
414-628-2947

Great Pyrenees Club of America
Catherine de la Cruz
4445 B Old Grave, Hwy S.
Sabastopol, CA 95472
619-949-0318
Compuserve: 72450, 716
Internet: 7245...@compuserve.com
-or- je...@freya.sunnyvale.ca.us

Alamo Great Pyrenees Club
Jean Cave
Box 493 FM 875 West
Midlothian, TX 76065
214-299-2202

Columbia-Cascade Great Pyrenees Club
Lee Trowbridge
Rt. 1, Box 236ff
La Center, WA 98629
206-263-4740

Grand Canyon State Great Pyrenees Club
Mickey Chaney
250 Arabian Dr.
Sedona, AZ 86336
602-284-2230

GPA of So. California
Dottie Sisco
18122 Rancho Ave.
Devore, CA 92407
714-985-3866

Great Pyrenees Club of California
Jeanne Yturbide
2064 Jackson St.
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-922-4378

Great Pyrenees Club of Greater Chicago
Amy Zacher
135 Fairview Lane
Steamwood, IL 60107
312-289-2842

Great Pyrenees Club of Greater Pittsburg
Carolyn Mohr
16473 Rock Creek Rd.
Thompson, OH 44086
216-298-3489

Great Pyrenees Club of Iowa
Carol Adamson
1845 175th Ave. N.E.
Foley, MN 56329
612-662-2464

Great Pyrenees Club of Metro, Detroit
Michele Brown
19614 Elizabeth
St. Clair Shrs, MI 48080
313-722-9150

Great Pyrenees Club of Metro, Milwaukee
Judy Brown
3360 Jackson Dr.
Jackson, WI 53037
414-677-2894

Heart of Ohio Great Pyrenees Club
Pat Wallace
301 21st St. N.W.
Canton, OH 44709
216-456-8496

Mile High Great Pyrenees Club
Carolyn Ferguson
Rt. 1 17925 CR 69
Fleming, CO 80728
303-265-3863

National Capital Area Great Pyrenees Club
Janet Ingram
204 Wild Partridge Lane
Radford, VA 24141
703-731-0229

Orange Coast Great Pyrenees Fanciers
Carol Riley
5786 Jeffries Ranch Rd.
Oceanside, CA 92056
619-945-8962

Penn-Dutch Great Pyrenees Club
Maureen Maxwell-Simon
7430 Jonestown Rd.
Harrisburg, PA 17112
717-545-4477

Puget Sound Great Pyrenees Club
Linda Welsser
3449 Gull Harbor Rd. N.E.
Olympia, WA 98506
206-357-9478

Pyrenean Fanciers of the Northeast
Flo Laicher
RD 12, Dixon Rd.
Carmel, NY 10512
914-225-2754

Westcoast GPA of Canada
Sharon Armstrong
9400 Beckwith Rd.
Richmond, BC
Canada V6X 1V9
604-278-1494

Great Pyrenees Rescue Service
Sue Perkins
207-666-8816
Maine

Fran Spier
207-582-7331
Maine

Bo and Margaret Riley
508-851-5090
(referral only)

Evelyn Nagle
603-924-7472
New Hampshire

-------------This is the end of Part 1 ----------------
*Copyright (c) 1993 by Michael George Buening. Please distribute this
document freely providing you keep this copyright intact. This document
may not be sold for profit nor incorporated into commercial documents
without the express permission of the author. This document is provided
"as is".

Michael Buening
internet: mi...@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
or mi...@sanger.biocore.nd.edu

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/publications
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



PUBLICATIONS

A. Addressing Behavior Problems
B. Annual Publications
C. Books on Canine Health & Care
D. Breed Information Books
E. Canine Behavior
F. Dogs and the Law
G. Dog Stories
H. General Care
I. Herding
J. Miscellaneous
K. Obedience Training
L. Puppies
M. Research Articles on Canine Health
N. Search and Rescue
O. Service Dogs
P. Sled Dogs
Q. Tracking or Trailing: Scenting
R. Training Hunting Dogs
S. Working Dogs (other)

Notes:
L = British pounds sterling
$ or USD = US dollar
CA$ or CAD = Canadian dollar

A. Addressing Behavior Problems.

Benjamin, Carol Lea. _Dog Problems_. Doubleday and Co. 1981. ISBN
0-385-15710-X. $13.95 hardcover.

Evans, Job Michael. _The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog_.

ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years. He discusses all
aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many
constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems.

Evans, Job Michael. (1991). People, Pooches, & Problems. NY:

Howell Book House. ISBN 0-87605-783-0 (hardcover). $19.95.
Excellent suggestions for dealing with common problems between dogs
and their owners. Highly recommended.

Fisher, John. _Why Does My Dog...?_. Howell Book House, New York;
Maxwell Maxmillian, Ontario. c1991. ISBN: 0-87605-792.
A wide range of problems and various solutions are listed.
Sometimes the problems are solved with a change of diet, more often
with simple but effective techniques. It is written much like an
encyclopedia, each section describing a problem followed with a
series of questions and answers about the problem. In most cases,
the scenarios are supplied from actual incidents in his practice.
The author is a member of the Association of Pet Behavior
Counsellors (APBC), based in Britain and Ireland.

Johnson, Nancy E. _Everyday Dog_. Howell Book House, New York. 1990.

Kilcommons, Brian, and Sarah Wilson. _Good Owners, Great Dogs_.
Good suggestions for socializing young dogs and for working on
behavior problems with adult dogs.

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Weekend Dog_. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
training, housebreaking, and so forth.

O'Farrell, Valerie. _Problem Dog, Behavior and Misbehavior_. Methuen.
Lots of stuff and covers many behavior problems, neurotic problems
and dog psychology.

Pryor, Karen. _Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and
Training by Karen Pryor_. Bantam, New York. 1985. c1984.
She presents different behavioralistic techniques for dealing with
several example situations (i.e. "Dog barks all night", "Roommate
leaves dirty laundry all over apartment," "Bus driver is rude,"
etc.) This would NOT be a good book for someone who wanted to teach
their dog to sit and come, but it discusses how the trainer's
actions "shape" the trainee's responses. Definitely a must-read for
people who are interested in "inducive" training, and should be
thought-provoking for any trainer who is thinking about training on
a higher level than "When the dog does this, give him a good collar
correction"--but experienced dog trainers will find a lot to quibble
about in what she says.

B. Annual Publications.

_1993 DOGS USA Annual_. Published by the Dog Fancy magazine folks.
Contains great articles, beautiful photos, a list of breeders
throughout the US and Canada for nearly every breed, PLUS a list of
obedience trainers, by state. This publication (by the folks who
bring you Dog Fancy) should be in every dog-owner's library.

_Dogs Annual in Canada_.
This includes information on breeders and descriptions for every

breed, how to choose a breeder, directory of trainers, basic

training and health care information, and more. It is an annual
that becomes available about the first week of December, and retails
for about CND $6.

C. Books on Canine Health & Care

_Merck Veterinary Manual_

Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. _Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook_. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN:

0-87605-764-4 (hardback).

This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,

etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A
valuable book to have around.

Clark, Ross D. and Joan R. Stainer, eds. _Medical and Genetic Aspects
of Purebred Dogs_. Veterinary Medicine Publishing Co., Edwardsville,
KA. 1983. ISBN 0-935078-24-X. 576 pages.
For most AKC breeds and a few UKC breeds, there are sections on
Origin & History
Description
Breeding and Whelping
Recognized Problems
Old Age
This accumulation of knowledge about the health of specific breeds
from breeders and veterinarians provides the potential dog owner
with information that can help them select a strong breed, an
informed and caring breeder, and a healthy pet.

Evans, J.M. and Kay White. _The Dogopedia: A complete Guide to Dog
Care_. Henston, Ltd, England. 1985. ISBN: 0-9510620-0-X. L6.95.
An inexpensive guide to dogs.

Evans, J.M. and Kay White. _The Book of the Bitch: A Complete Guide
to Understanding and Caring for Bitches_. Henston Ltd, England. 1988.
ISBN 1-85054-115-0. L6.95.

Lanting, Fred L. _Canine Hip Dysplasia and Other Orthopedic Problems_.
Alpine Publications, Inc., CO. 1981. ISBN 0-931866-06-5.
Also available from R.C. Steele.

Morgan, Joe P. DVM and Michele Stephens, DVM. _Radiographic Diagnosis
and Control of Canine Hip Dysplasia_. Iowa State University Press,
1985. ISBN 0-8138-1507-X.
A technical, well written book. From the preface: "written from the
eyes of a diagnostic radiologist and small animal practitioner and
is designed for the veterinary practitioner who deals with owners
and breeders in working to solve the serious problem of dysplasia.
The book is planned to assist in describing the disease to this
group. It is also hoped that the monograph will find its way into
the hands of the lay person who has a love for dogs. All technical
terms are clearly defined and most will be able to profit in their
understanding of this disease by reading this book." Replete with
x-rays. Morgan is a consultant for OFA and has reviewed over 25,000
x-rays for them. The book includes specific descriptions of
dysplasia in GSDs, Labs, Great Pyrenees, and St. Bernard, for the
first time(they say) clearly spelling out the differences between
the breeds.

Miller, Harry. _The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care_. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8 (paperback).
This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog. You can
use this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush
up on what you don't. Besides sections on how to select the right
dog, it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding,
illnesses), basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list of

AKC breeds (each breed illustrated with b/w drawing, thumbnail
sketch included -- good as an overview, but not very specific).

Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you
can determine a dog's overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases
and problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain

symptoms. Includes guides to nutrition, grooming, health care.
(Author is Emeritus Director, Gaines Dog Research Center.)

Pitcairn, Richard H., DVM/PhD and Susan Hubble Pitcairn. _ Complete
Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats_. Rodale Press, Pennsylvania.
Cost is about $13.00 - readily available in book/pet/health shops.
This book is full of wonderful information about the physical and
emotional well-being of our pets, well documented, researched, and
invitingly written to get one involved and committed to a complete,
balanced approach to pet care. There is a large portion devoted to
nutrition, first defining the nutritional needs of the pet
(dogs/cats), breakdowns of proteins, carbos, vitamins, minerals,
trace elements, etc. - these by weight and condition of pet (e.g.,
from small nursing puppy to senior citizen with particular needs).
Then they compare commercial products (read the label!) with his
variety of menus, additives of powders & oils (always charted out by
weight - easy to follow); comparison is by nutritional content, cost
factors, and speed of preparation - to be honest, we all look for
convenience. There are also sections on Poisons, Disease, Being
Prepared for the Unexpected, Traveling.

Richardson, Daniel C. "The role of nutrition in canine hip
dysplasia," The Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small
Animal Practice, May 1, 1992.
Discusses studies comparing factors such as c-section vs. natural
birth, free-feeding vs. underfeeding, and motion-restriction vs.
unrestricted mobility in puppies expected to develop CHD.

Riser, Wayne. _Canine Hip Dysplasia and How to Control It_. 1965.
The original experiment showed that puppies raised in 3' x 3' x 3'
cages for the first 90 days showed a drastic reduction in dysplasia
at 24 months when compared with a control group, as evidenced by
radiographs.

The study also showed that puppies raised on slippery floors, or
allowed to run, jump, climb stairs, chase balls, stand on hind legs,
etc. showed a markedly higher incidence of HD at 24 mos.

The moral of the story is: If you have a puppy which is of a breed
that has a high incidence of dysplasia, limit vigorous activity when
young.

(A more complete reference to some of the work done by Riser, Morris
and Fred Lanting is contained in the Howell 'Rottweiler' book.)

Rubin, Lionel F. _Inherited Eye Diseases in Purebred Dogs_.

Turner, Trevor, ed. _Veterinary Notes for Dog Owners_. Popular Dogs.
1991. L17.99 paper, L30.00 hardback.
Similar to the Horse Owners book.

Vanderlip, Sharon Lynn, DVM. _The Collie: A Veterinary Reference for the
Professional Breeder_.

D. Breed Information Books

_The Mini-Atlas of Dog Breeds, Simon & Schusters Guide to Dogs_.
Lists a variety of breeds. It does contain errors; it is an OK
but not great reference book.

_Harper's Illustrated Handbook of Dogs_. Harper and Row, ISBN
0-06-091198-0.
It gives a picture of every AKC dog breed and a one page description
of each breed in the back. The description covers appearance, AKC
standards, potential health problems, needs, history, temperament.

De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson. _The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds_. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753

(1990). ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardback).

This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos. Includes a
short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).

Gannon, Dee. _The Rare Breed Handbook_. 2nd edition. Order
from JB Wholesale.
Describes 80 rare breeds. Loose leaf format.

Hart, Lynette A. _The Perfect Puppy_. WH Freeman. 1987. ISBN
0-7167-1829-4.
This covers only about 65 breeds' temperaments, but makes a
greater effort to be objective than some other sources. Lists
health defects in particular breeds.

Lowell, Michele. _Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide_. Holt and
Co. 1991. ISBN 0-8050-1892-1.
Far more comprehensive than Hart's book, with useful warnings
about health defects to watch for in specific breeds.

Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds. _The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club_. Eighteenth
edition. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1992.
This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and

text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature. The
health section is not illustrated, but is otherwise excellent as it
was prepared with the cooperation of the faculty of the School of
Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. Newly

admitted breeds, such as the Shar-pei, have been added to this edition.

Sylvester, Patricia, ed. _The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of Dogs_.
Revised edition. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY. 1989. ISBN 0-89577-340-6. 384 pages.
Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
are also well-written and illustrated and include many color

photographs as well. This is a good general reference on dogs, and
is especially helpful when choosing a breed to own. The health
chapters are invaluable to non-veterinarian owners.

Taylor, David. _The Ultimate Dog Book_. 1992.
This is another breed book. Largely coffee-table material,
its distinguishing feature is the outstanding quality of photography.
Each breed featured has a two page spread, with photos of the dog
that include: full side view, side of head, front of head, and
variations within that breed (eg, coloring, though surprisingly
the Labrador Retriever entry only shows a black Labrador). This
is worth getting for the picture quality alone, but not necessarily
as an extensive breed guide in its own right.

Tortora, Daniel F. _The Right Dog For You_. Fireside, Simon &
Schuster Trade Books. 1983. ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires
to alert you to the potential significance of various features of

breed behavior and physical characteristics. This is one of the few
books that will discuss, candidly, negative aspects of a particular
breed.

Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz. _Atlas of Dog Breeds_. TFH
Publications.
Over 900 pages long in large format. The authors are top notch
writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
resource of the world's dog breeds. The book is profusely
illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
article. This book makes a good effort to show every color and
every coat type of each breed in the various photos. Expensive.

E. Canine Behavior

Fox, M. W., and J. W. Spencer. 1967. Development of the delayed
response in the dog. Anim. Behav. 15:162-68.

Fuller, J. L., C. A. Easler, and E. M. Banks. 1950. Formation of
conditioned avoidance responses in young puppies. Am. J. Physiol.
160:462-66.

Houpt, Katherine A., VMD, PhD and Thomas R. Wolski DVM. Domestic
Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists, 1982, pp.
235-238. Discusses studies on breed differences in learning ability
or, at least, in acquisition and performance of various tasks.
Contains references to similar studies.

Lynch, J. J., and J. F. McCarthy. 1967. The effect of petting on a
classically conditioned emotional response. Behaav. Res. Ther.
5:55-62.

Shewell, P.C and J.D. Nancarrow. Dogs that bite. British Medical
Journal, 1991. 6816:1512-13.
The article contains statistics of cases treated at West Midland
Regional Plastic and Jaw Surgery Unit, Wordsley Hospital, during the
period 1982-1989. The review of the article indicates that the most
common situation that causes dogs to bite is a child coming to visit
a family with dogs where the child immediately approaching the dog
and hugging it. It is also worth noting that Dobermans and
Rottweilers only caused 7% of all cases.

Stanley, W. C., J. E. Barrett, and W. E. Bacon. 1974. Conditioning
and extinction of avoidance and escape behavior in neonatal dogs. J.
Comp. Physiol. Psychol. 87:163-72.

Vogel, H. H., Jr., J. P. Scott, and M.-'V. Marston. 1950. Social
facilitation and allelomimetic behavior in dogs. I. Social
facilitation in a non-competitive situation. Behaviour 2:121-34.

Woodbury, C. B. 1943. The learning of stimulus patterns by dogs. J.
Comp. Psychol. 35:29-40.

Coon, K. 1977. The Dog Intelligence Test. New York: Avon, 90 p.

Fogle, Bruce. _The Dog's Mind_.
This appears to be the best, most comprehensive book summarizing
current research on canine psychology and behavior. You won't find
much in the way of how-to instructions, but you will find alot of
hard facts on every aspect of the canine mind and personality.
This book is well-written and very readable even by the layperson.

Honore, Erika K., and Peter H. Klopfer. _A Concise Survey of Animal
Behavior_. Academic Press, 465 S. Lincoln Dr., Troy MO 63379. c1990.
An in depth academic approach to helping people understand and
appreciate animal behavior, including dogs.

F. Dogs and the Law

Jordan, Cora. _Neighbor Law: Trees, Fences, Boundaries, and Noise_.
Nolo Press. ISBN: 0-87337-158-5.
Dog problems can stem from, be exacerbated by, or lead to
more-general feuds with the neighbors. This book makes a
good companion volume to Randolph's _Dog Law_.

Randolph, Mary. _Dog Law_. Nolo Press, 950 Parker St., Berkeley CA
94710 (800)992-6656. ISBN 0-87337-078-3. $12.95.
Author is an attorney. "... _Dog Law_ answers common questions on
such topics as biting, barking, veterinarians, leash laws, travel,
landlords, wills, guide dogs, pit bulls, cruelty and much more."

G. Dog Stories

*_Chelsea, the Story of a Signal Dog_.
This is written by a man who is a professor at Fresno State Univ. in
CA. It's the utterly charming story of his own attempts to adopt
and train a dog to be his signal dog (he is deaf) and then, years
later, he goes on to get a CCI dog. This book does a great job of
helping you understand how the deaf community functions in a hearing
world, and how they perceive themselves.

Cohen, Barbara and Louise Taylor. _Dogs and their Women_. 1989, ISBN
0316-15036-3.
Lots of good stories.

Hearne, Vicki. _Bandit, the Dossier of a Dangerous Dog_.
Along with much philosophy, the author recounts her experiences
with pit-bulls and other "dangerous" breeds.

Kilbourn, Cheryl A. _For the Love of Princess: Surviving the Loss of
Your Pet_. Princess Publishing, PO Box 386, Beaverton OR 97075-0386,
1987. ISBN: 0-943367-00-X.
From back: "For the Love of Princess is a deeply moving portrayal of
the loving bond between the author and her canine companion of nine
years. When Cheryl learned that Princess had an irreversible
disease and their time together was limited, her pain began."

H. General Care

Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. _Senior Years:
Understanding your Dog's Aging Process_. Howell Book House. 1993.
ISBN: 0-87605-734-2.

Monks of New Skete, The. _How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Little,

Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent,
well written classic.

Taylor, David. _You and Your Dog_. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).

ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.

It includes a basic listing of dog breeks (AKC). This is a good

general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved

in owning and caring for a dog. Taylor gives flow-chart questions
to consider when deciding if symptoms are serious or not. An easily
understandable format. Not as comprehensive as other care books,

but a good start in understanding what you need to look for when
your dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures, such

as teeth cleaning and claw trimming. Informative discussion of

reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.

I. Herding

Holmes, John. _The Farmer's Dog_. Order from SHEEP!

Jones, H. Glyn. _A Way of Life_. Order from SHEEP!
H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.

Karrasch, Dick. _Training a Stockdog: For Beginners_. Wondereye
Farm, Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.

O'Reilly, Chuck. _Training Working Livestock Dogs_. Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.

Robertson, Pope. _Anybody Can Do It_. Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.

Templeton, John and Matt Mundell. _Working Sheep Dogs_. Order from
SHEEP!

J. Miscellaneous

Alston, George G. _The Winning Edge, Show Ring Secrets_.
Howell Book House, 1992. ISBN 0-87605-834-9.
Alston is an experienced and knowledgeable professional handler and
the book is full of great tips. Nice philosophies about dogs and
dog shows. The book is well-written and very readable.

White, Darlene, DVM. "Eliminating the Threats of Zoonoses," in
Dog World, April 1992 (v77n4); a Maclean Hunter Publication,
29 N. Wacker Dr., Chicago IL 60606-3298.

Hutt, FB: Genetics for Dog Breeders; W. H. Freeman and Co., San
Francisco, CA, 1979.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
Description of wolves and their relationship with humans. Not
really a technical discussion of wolves like the _The Wolf_ (Mech).

Lorenz, Konrad. _Man Meets Dog_. 1977.

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_. University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
informative and well written book.

Migliorini, Mario. _Kennel Building and Management_. New York, N.Y. :
Howell Book House, 1987.
Contains a bibliography. Useful tips on how to construct a dog run.

Milani, Myrna M., DVM. _The Invisible Leash_.

Mugford, Roger. _Dr. Mugford's Casebook_.
Case studies.

Neville, Peter. _Do Dogs Need Shrinks?_.
Case studies.

Nicholas, FW. _Veterinary Genetics_. Oxford University Press, New
York, NY, 1987.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J. _The New Knowledge Of Dog Behavior_.

Foreword by J. P. Scott. Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.

New York, Howell Book House, c1963.
Mr Pfaffenberger wrote this book based on his own experiences
working with the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind and
the research of Dr. J. Paul Scott of the Animal Behavior Division at
Roscoe B. Jackson Memorial Laboratory in Bar Harbor, Maine. As a
measure of the success of the work at Guide Dogs for the Blind, in
the late 1940's, only nine percent of the dogs that started training
could become responsible guides. In 1958 and 1959, all the dogs
bred and developed according to the knowledge gained by
Pfaffenbarger were as good or better than the dogs of 1946 and 90%
became guide dogs despite stricter requirements from the 1946
standard.

Scott, J. P., and J. L. Fuller. 1974. Dog Behavior. The Genetic
Basis. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 468 p.

Serpell, James. _In the Company of Animals_. Basil Blackwell, Oxford.
1986. ISBN: 0-631-14536-2.
Book on pet keeping through time and across cultures.

Shook, Larry. _The Puppy Report_. Lyons and Burford, Pubs., New
York. 1992. ISBN: 1-55821-140-3.
Larry Shook is a newspaper reporter who, despite working with an
allegedly reputable breeder, ended up with a purebred dog with a
very serious temperament problem - a problem that the breeder had

compelling reason to know about in advance. So Shook put his
professional skills to work and has written a helpful, brief book
about the dangers of 'inbreeding' and about how to avoid breeders

who'll knowingly sell dogs that are very likely to have serious

physical or psychological problems. Not surprisingly, he comes down
very hard on puppy mills and stores that sell live animals.
Surprising/shocking is some of the information he relays about the
AKC and certain common breeding practices which are, in effect,
encouraged by AKC policies.

Tellington-Jones, Linda, with Sybil Taylor. _The Tellington Touch:
A Breakthrough Technique to Train and Care for Your Favorite Animal_.
Viking Penguin. 1992. ISBN 0-670-82578-6.
Some of what Linda does is clearly helpful in dealing with problem
dogs and cats, but there are parts of her presentation of her ideas
that may turn people off because they seem to be a little too
far out of the mainstream. Good massage tips.

Willis, Bruce. _Genetics of Dogs_.

Zimen, Eric. Eric Mosbacher, trans. _The Wolf: His Place in the
Natural World_. (UK title).
Book on wolf behavior.

K. Obedience Training

Baer, Ted. _Communicating with Your Dog_. Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
Heavily illustrated with color photos. A sensible approach to
laying a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if
you don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here).
Simple instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis
on understanding and building on previous work.

Barwig, Susan. _Schutzhund_. Quality Press, Englewood, CO. 1978.

Bauman, Diane L. _Beyond Basic Dog Training_. New, updated edition.

Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.

Benjamin, Carol and Capt. Haggerty. _Dog Tricks_.
This book has more tricks in it than you will even dream of teaching
your dog with suggestions for the method. In the back they have a
listing by breed of tricks that are especially suitable or unsuitable
for that breed.

Burnham, Patricia Gail. _Playtraining Your Dog_. St. Martin's Press,
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. c1980. ISBN 0-312-61691-0
(trade paperback).
An excellent book that describes how to use play to motivate your
dog through obedience training. She focuses on how to teach each
exercise in the AKC Novice, Open, and Utility classes. Her
philosophy, though, lends itself to any type of training. Well
written and informative. For you greyhound lovers, all her dogs and
inside photos are of greyhounds.

Fisher, John. _Dogwise_.
The author is a well known UK behaviourist and ex-service dog
trainer. _Dogwise_ follows the selection of a eight month rescue GSD
and his Police Dog handler through a 12 week course using only
positive reinforcement and the final exaimination qualifying the dog
to work with the London Met to the HMSO. The focus is on the training
methods more than on police work.

Handler, Barbara. _Positively Obedient_
This follows _How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With_ very nicely.
This is a book a novice owner can read, follow and succeed in getting
results.

Handler, Barbara. _Best Foot Forward_.
A guide to showing and handling in the obedience rings. It covers
how to enter shows, what to do on the day, and how not to make handling
errors.

Hearne, Vicki. _Adam's Task_. Knopf. 1986.
Described as the best single reference on Koehler.

Koehler, William. _The Koehler Method of Dog Training_. Howell Books.
Koehler's methods are considered unusually harsh and counterproductive
by some modern trainers. On the other hand, his methods do have a
history of success, especially with breeds considered less trainable.

Olson, Bjorn. _Training Your Dog Step by Step_.

Rogerson, John. _Your Dog, its Development, Behaviour and Training_.
Also, _Training Your Dog_.

Strickland, Winifred G. _Expert Obedience Training for Dogs_. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company),

New York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardback).

Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
_Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs_.

Tucker, Michael. _Dog Training Step by Step_.
Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
follow. His others are _Dog Training Made Easy_, _Solving Your Dog
Problems_.

Volard. _Training Your Dog Step by Step_.

Weston, David. _Dog Training: The Gentle Method_.

L. Puppies.

Benjamin, Carol Lea. _Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train
Your Dog_. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4.
$15.95 hardcover.
"No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
becomes, she never denies him his nourishment. He never goes to bed
without his supper. Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."

She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.

Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between

an owner and his dog, and this book profides some ideas on

establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.

Brahms, Ann and Paul. _Puppy Ed._. Ballantine Books. 1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress
that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later,
more formal training goes much easier.

Dunbar, Ian, DVM. _How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks_ (Manual for the
Sirius PUppy Training Program). James and Kenneth Pubs., Oakland. 1991.

Kovary, Robin. _12 Step Problem Prevention Program for Puppies_.
Self-published, New York. 1990.

Monks of New Skete, The. _The Art of Raising a Puppy_. Little, Brown
and Company (1991). ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
the appropriate stages and why. First they follow a newborn litter
through its various stages of development and at each stage they
discuss what is happening. They discuss testing puppies'
temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
circumstances. They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
reputable breeders. They then launch into a series of useful
chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
care. A good bibliography is provided at the back.

Randolph, Elizabeth. _How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog_. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.

Rutherford, Clarice, and David H. Neil, MRCVS. _How to Raise a Puppy
You Can Live With_. Alpine Publications, Loveland, CO, 1981. ISBN
0-931866-09-X. 126 pages.
The authors demonstrate their deep understanding of young dogs, and
their clear guidance is sure to help owners build a strong bond with
their new companion. For a new owner this book demonstrates basic
obedience training, covers the first year developmental stages, and
presents simple practical advice for dealing with behavior problems

Schwartz, Charlotte. _The Howell Book of Puppy Raising_. 1st ed.
Howell Book House. c1978. ISBN 0-87605-770-9.
Full of all kinds of useful information. Tips on housetraining,
use of crates, how to feed, ways to train them, etc.

M. Research Articles on Canine Health

Allen, Moira Anderson. "Cancer: An Overview -- Canine Cancers and
Treatment Methods." Pure-Bred Dogs, American Kennel Gazette.
107(6):84. June 1, 1990.

Angel, C., O. D. Murphree, and D. C. De Lucia. 1974. The effects of
chlordiazepoxide, amphetamine and cocaine on bar-press behavior in
normal and genetically nervous dogs. Res. Nerv. Syst. 35:220-23.

Bardens, JW. Palpation for the detection of dysplasia and wedge
technique for pelvic radiography; Proc AAHA; pp 468-471, 1972.

Cardinet, GH, III, Guffy, MM, et al. Canine hip dysplasia in German
Shepherd Dog - Greyhound crossbreeds; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 164:
591-598, 1983.

Corley, EA, Hogan, PM. Trends in hip dysplasia control: Analysis of
Radiographs submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals,
1974 to 1984; J Am Vet Med Assoc 187: 805-809, 1985.

Corley, EA, GG Keller. Hip Dysplasia A Guide for Dog Breeders and
Owners, 2nd Ed., Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Columbia, MO,
1989.

Dixon, RT. The effect of limb positioning on the radiographic
diagnosis of canine hip dysplasia; Vet Rec 91: 644-646, 1972.

Fox, SM, Burns, J, Burt, J. Symposium on Hip Dysplasia; Vet Med:
pp 683-716, July, 1987.

Gaebelein, C. J., R. A. Galosy, L. Botticelli, J. L. Howard, and P. A.
Obrist. 1977. Blood pressure and cardiac changes during signalled and
unsignalled avoidance in dogs. Physiol. Behav. 19:69-74.

Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.

Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al. "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.

Henry, JD, Jr, Park, RD. Wedge technique for demonstration of
coxofemoral joint laxity in the canine: Proc. Canine Hip Dysplasia
Symposium and Workshop; OFA, Columbia, MO; pp 117-126, 1972.

Heshammer, A, Olsson, S-E, et al. Study of heritablility in 401
litters of German Shepherd Dogs; J. AM Vet Med Assoc 174:
1012-1016, 1979. [Hip dysplasia.]

Hutt, FB. Genetic selection to reduce the incidence of hip
dysplasia in dogs; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 151: 1041-1048, 1967.

Johnson SD. "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically
neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.

Kasstrom, H. Nutrition, weight gain, and development of hip
dysplasia: An experimental investigation in growing dogs with
special reference to the effect of feeding intensity; Acta Radiol
Suppl 344: 135-179, 1975.

LeRoux PH. Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and
body mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian
autotransplants in the stomach wall. J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.

Mackenzie, SA. Canine hip dysplasia: Why heritability estimates
differ; Canine Pract 12: 19-22, 1985.

Marrion, Ruth, DMV. "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

Nicholas, FW. "Hip Dysplasia: Perspectives of the Eighties" in
_Seminars in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery (Small Animals)_. Grune &
Stratton, Inc., Orlando, FL, Vol II, No. 2, May 1987.

Owen, Larry. "Identifying and treating Cancer in Geriatric Dogs."
Veterinary Medicine. 86(1):55 (January 1 1991).

Rendano, VT, Ryan G. Canine hip dysplasia evaluation; J Vet Radiol,
26:170-186, 1985.

Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V. Gonadectomy in
immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development. JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.

Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS. Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A
review. JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.

Sonnenschein, Elizabeth G., Larwence T. Glickman, and Michael H.
Goldschmidt. Body Conformation, Diet, and Risk of Breast Cancer in
Pet DOgs: A Case-Control Study. American Journal of Epidemiology.
133(7):694 (April 1, 1991).

Thrusfield MV. Association between urinary incontinence and spaying
bitches. Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.

N. Search and Rescue

American Rescue Dog Association. _Search and Rescue Dogs_. Howell
Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-733-4.
ARDA outlines their philosophy and methods for SAR. This book is
excellent for an understanding of the depths of committment and work
to be a SAR volunteer. It is a compilation of notes made over a
thirty year period; consequently some of the information is out of
date. There are two main deficiencies in this book. The first is a
bias toward the German Shepherd Dog, such that they actually refuse
to use any other breed; the second is a seemingly cavalier disregard
for the consequences of deliberately searching for cadavers with SAR
dogs, when such dogs should always search for live scent
(particularly for disaster work).

Bryson, Sandy. _Search Dog Training_. Third printing. Boxwood
Press, 183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950. 1991 (c 1984).
ISBN: 0-910286-94-9.
A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
and many other topics.

Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed. _Manhunters! Hounds of the

Big T_. Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373.

1984. ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardback).

Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York. This

book recounts his experiences using bloodhounds in trailing. Many

fascinating stories. Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
to locate dead bodies.

O. Service Dogs

*_Therapy Dog_.
Therapy dog training. A good psychology book with gentle training
methods.

Harrington, Paula. _Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind_. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.

Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. _Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training_. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth.

P. Sled Dogs

Collins, Miki and Julie. _Dog Driver, A Guide for the Serious Musher_.
Alpine Publishing, 1991. 385 pgs hardcover. ISBN: 0-931866-48-0.
A complete reference covering all aspects of working and living with
sled dogs. From housing to health, nutrition, equipment, breeding,
training, and much more. Sprint racing, long distance racing,
weight pulling, camping, and so forth are also covered. Excellent
book for learning about sledding and sled dogs. Best if used in
association with one of the other novice books mentioned for
beginning mushers.

Flanders, Noel. _The Joy of Running Sled Dogs_. Alpine Publishing
1989. 107 pgs softcover. ISBN: 0-931866-39-1.
This is a brief, beginners level, introduction to living and
working with sled dogs. A good compact reference.

Fishback, Lee and Mel. _Novice Sled Dog Training_. 13th printing,

Raymond Thompson Company, 1989. 37 pgs softcover.
This is a very brief guide for the begining dog driver. Covers
equipment, basic obedience, lead dog training, handling problem
dogs, and sled dog racing.

Kaynor, Carol and Mari Hoe-Raitto. _Skijoring: An Introduction to the
Sport_.

Levorsen, Bella, ed. _MUSH! A beginer's Manual of Sled Dog Training_,
edited for the Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers Inc. Arner Publications, 1976.
250pgs hardcover. ISBN: 0-91424-06-4.
A beginners guide to sled dogs and mushing. This is a very good
begining book to learn about equipment and training, as well as sled
dog health issues. Excellent novice mushing book.

Welch, Jim. _The Speed Mushing Manual_. Sirius Publishing, 1989.
ISBN: 0-96236-43-0-4.
This is a book about serious sprint sled dog racing, the how to's.
Not a novice book.

Q. Tracking or Trailing: Scenting

The Tracking Club of Massachusetts. _Tracking! A Practical Guide for
TD and TDX_. 438 Lowell Street, Wakefield, MA 01880. $8 plus shipping
and handling.
An inexpensive booklet on tracking that is put out by The Tracking Club
of Massachusetts. It is a very concise, yet clear introduction to
tracking for all breeds. It was written by the members of the club
some of which have almost 30 years tracking experience.

Button, Lue. _Practical Scent Dog Training_. Alpine Publications,
Inc. 214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537. 1990. ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test. Starts with
young puppies. Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at
Los Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.

Davis, L. Wilson. _Go Find! Training Your Dog to Track_. Ninth
printing, 1984. Howell Book House, Inc., New York. c1974.

ISBN: 0-87605-550-1 (hardback).

Blurb: "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
scent training for dogs. This official status follows upon decades

of recognized achievemnent in these phases of Obedience training.

Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile

experimentation. Major Davis was an AKC licenced judge for all

classes of Obedience. He is presently training director of the
famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore. He organized and
headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement. Major Davis is a
recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
dedicated contributions to dog training."

Johnson, Glen. _Training the Tracking Dog_.

Johnson, Glen. _Tracking Dog: Theory and Methods_. Arner
Publications Inc., Clark Mills NY. c1975. ISBN: 0-914124-04-8.
From blurb: "The author became fascinated with the tracking tests
held at widely spaced intervals during the years where he could not
get over the trouble trainers were having training their own dogs
for this highly regarded title. He embarked upon a course of
research, experimentation and documentation that enabled him to
formulate his own training program that has resulted in 100% OF ALL
DOGS COMPLETING THE PROGRAM EARNING A TRACKING TITLE. Old wives
tales went out the window and theories became irrelevant as the
program was based solely on "observable behavior" of those dogs that
were already trained to track. The results of these experiments and
the program itself are detailed in "Tracking Dog - theory and
methods".

From this program, the youngest dog ever to acquire its TDX title in
Canada earned his title at 13 months of age. Before this time there
was never more than 1 dog with a TDX title alive anywhere else and
one student has two TDX dogs and a third with a Canadian and
American TD.

Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD. _Scent: Training to Track,
Search, and Rescue_. Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado. 1982.
ISBN: 0-931-866-11-1.
Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
-- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
track. Then they use this background as a basis for training.

Topics include the science of scent, kindergarten puppy tracking,

tracking equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and
track, search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent
and the law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."

Syrotuck, Bill. _Scent and the Scenting Dog_. Arner Publications, c1972.
Early work on understanding scent.

R. Training Hunting Dogs

Free, James Lamb. _Training Retrievers_.
A classic. It outlines the long-standing training methods for field
dogs. A good book even if some of it is outdated. An excellent
description of training a dog to handle.

Rafe, Stephen. _Training Your Dog for Birdwork_.

Spencer, James B. _Hunting Retrievers: Hindsights, Foresights and Insights_.
This is general interest, and well-written, but doesn't contain
a lot of training specifics.

Spencer, James B. _Training Retrievers for the Marshes and Meadows_.
Denlinger Publications in Fairfax, VA.
It starts with puppy selection and goes on up to advanced marks and
blinds. It is helpful in providing tips on resolving training
blocks.

Spencer, James B. _Retriever Training Tests_. Prentice Hall Press.
Helps you to set up training situations and teaches you how the
dog should react to things like hills, cover, land-water-land
retrieves, how the wind affects them, etc.

Tarrant, Bill. _Training the Hunting Retriever_. Howell Book House,
Mamillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York NY 10022. c1991.

S. Working Dogs (other).

Chapman, Samuel G. _Police Dogs in America_. Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.

Tolhurst, Bill. _The Police Textbook for Dog Handlers_. Sharp

Printing, 3477 Lockport Road, Sanborn, NY 14132. 1991. (Paperback,
89 pages.)
This book is only available from the author. $14 plus $2 shipping
and handling. Write to Bill Tolhurst, 383 Willow Street, Lockport,
NY 14094. The most comprehensive training book available. Contains
information not available from any other source. Contains updated
information covered by the original National Police Bloodhound
Training Manual (1977). Plus: how to train a land-cadaver dog, a
water-cadaver dog, an article-search dog, an accelerant (arson) dog.
Information on the Scent Transfer Machine, about radio-controlled
dogs, on crime scene dog development, on the use of a scent sleeve.
Discusses seminars, Bloodhound misconceptions, testifying in court,
commands, puppy profiles (how to select a puppy) and more.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeding

Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



BREEDING YOUR DOG

A. Reasons NOT to Breed. Reasons to Breed.
B. But My Dog is Registered!
C. Medical Checks for Breeding Stock.
D. Temperament.
E. Pedigrees.
F. Frequency of Breeding.
G. Care of Pregnant or Nursing Bitch.
H. Caring for the Puppies.
I. Considerations for Stud Dogs.
J. Genetics.
K. References.

You may be wondering whether or not you will breed the dog you get.
Here is some information. The summary is that if you want to do it
right, and get healthy and happy puppies, it is very expensive and a
lot of work.

Remember that you are going to need a vet that is familiar with
whelping dogs. This will be your best resource, as well as any
long-time breeders that you know. Not all vets are knowlegeable
about whelping so be sure to ask around and especially look for
recommendations from local breeders that you may know.

A. Reasons NOT to Breed. Reasons to Breed.

Please do NOT breed your dog "for the money" or "to see the wonders of
birth and life" or some similar nonsense. Breeding is expensive, and
good breeders rarely make money on their dogs. The "wonders of birth
and life" can turn tragically if any die; if the bitch has her puppies
at the vet, the kids certainly won't see it. Dogs and bitches are NOT
improved or fulfilled by having puppies. They are not frustrated in
life by the lack of puppies either.

If you want to breed your dog so as to get another dog like yours,
think about this for a moment. No matter how special your dog is to
you, a puppy out of it is not guaranteed to be just like or even
similar to your dog -- half it's genes are from another dog! You will
have to find another dog that has the characteristics you want in your
puppy; that dog will have to be unneutered; and the owner of that dog
will have to be willing to breed her/his dog to yours. It is much
easier, often less expensive, and certainly less time consuming to
pick out an existing dog that you like from the shelter or another
breeder.

Don't breed for the money. If you do things right by the parents,
puppies, and people who buy your puppies, you are very likely to
*lose* money. Good breeding is expensive. There are health tests to
ensure that the parents are healthy and fit. There are expenses
related to feeding and care of the dam and her puppies. There are
possible expenses if there is trouble with the litter. The process is
time consuming: days off from work, time spent caring for the puppies,
time spent socializing the puppies, time spent training the puppies,
time spent talking to puppy buyers on the phone, time spent showing
puppy buyers the puppies, etc. There are even potential problems
later on with dissatified customers! You are better off consulting
with a financial wizard about investing the money you would otherwise
spend and lose on breeding!

The ONLY reason you should be breeding is that you honestly feel that
you are improving your breed by doing so. There are far too many dogs
in the country to breed without good reason.

B. But My Dog is Registered!

Well, yes, but that doesn't mean a whole lot. A registered dog, be it
AKC, UKC, CKC, etc., simply means that it's parents (and their
parents) are also registered with the same registry. This confers no
merit in of itself, it simply means that the dog's parentage is known.

Registries do not make any assertions of quality in the dogs they
register (except for some limited breed-only registrations, but these
are uncommon). They do not restrict the breeding of their dogs and
hence there is no guarantee that a registered dog is a good specimen
of its breed.

The AKC has just started a "limited registration" program whereby
puppies out of such dogs are ineligible for registration. It remains
to be seen what the overall impact on AKC dog breeds will be.

C. Medical Checks for Breeding Stock

1. Eye checks

Eye problems include PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy -- causes total
blindness), which doesn't usually show up until the dog is 4 years
old, cataracts, and retinal dysplasia. These are hereditary
conditions and in some cases cause blindness. In the case of PRA, the
pedigree needs to be studied, and if there are any carriers of the
disease on her pedigree, you must choose a stud dog whose pedigree is
free of any problems. PRA is a recessive gene, so in order to be
affected the puppy needs to get a gene from each parent.

CERF (Canine Eye Registry Foundation) registers dogs that are found
clear of eye problems. Dogs need to be cleared yearly as there
are some types of eye problems that show up later in life.

2. Hip and joint checks.

Hip problems are more likely. There is a hip certification process
that breeders adhere to, and have their dogs certified free of the
disease by OFA. OFA will not certify a dog until that dog is 2 years
old so it's best to wait until that age to certify and then breed if
all is well. They grade the hips as a passing grade of Excellent,
Good, or Fair, or a non-passing grade (meaning DO NOT BREED this dog)
of Borderline, Mild, Moderate, or Severe hip dysplasia. Even if your
dog's parents are OFA certified you need to certify its hips as well.
In a breeding of OFA certified parents, you will get a range in the
quality of the dogs' hips. Even the worst aren't likely to show any
symptoms of hip dysplasia, at least not as young dogs, but if you
breed two borderline dogs together you may get a litter of crippled
dogs. The hip problems aren't limited to the puppies either. In
addition, borderline bitches that are bred wind up with hips that
deteriorate faster than they would have otherwise. So you could also
damage the health of the dam by breeding her when her hips are
borderline.

There are increasing problems with elbow dysplasia in many of the
breeds that have hip displasia. In addition, there are other joint
problems that affect other dogs. For example Pallelar Subluxation
(where the knee cap will slip to one side and lock the leg into
position) is a common problem in smaller breeds.

Arthritis, calcium buildup and other problems should also be checked
for.

3. Breed specific problems

Other breeds have a tendency toward other specific medical problems
(hip and eye are simply the most common): you need to know what is
prone in your breed and take steps to minimize and eliminate it.

Some examples are deafness in Dalmatians, cardiac problems with
Newfoundlands.

4. Other things to check for

You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from
brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual
sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a
litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In
addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the
urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly
passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be
infected through contact with secretions.

Epilepsy, siezures and similar problems should be ruled out.

Vaccinations must, of course, be kept up to date.

D. Temperament

Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular,
this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general
temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your
animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people,
excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or
submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient
animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament
requirements for your dog's breed.

There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperaments. Many
of the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the
Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen
test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's
temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and
other Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to
separate out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can
be (but are not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.

E. Pedigrees

You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility.
Try to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch
to be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the
bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires
considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should
definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the
breeder of your dog. Simply because two dogs "look good" or even
*are* good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other:
suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they
both have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults?

Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of
its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a
few faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog.
Check the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person
for their evaluation of your dog.

We'll return the the importance of scrutinzing a pedigree in the
genetics section later.

F. Frequency of Breeding

Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should
not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the
second birthday is a good one to start with. By this time, she is
better prepared mentally for having puppies than she would have been
with her first few seasons. Her physical growth is complete and
pregnancy at this point won't endanger her health, provided that
she is healthy to begin with.

In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years
of age so that the bitch is certified; however if you have sent in
xrays to OFA for preliminary certification and they came back as fine,
many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season
closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch
is actually old enough to be certified. But the preliminary xrays
*must* be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are
many, many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays
and pronounce them "wonderful."a

However, even at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season
between breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her
strength. A bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies
more likely to die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on
her, too.

For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications
necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two
years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches,
waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a
season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or
three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters.
But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have
all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is
not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm
production if they breed once a day for several days. They need
top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.

G. Care of the Pregnant or Nursing Bitch

You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations,
medications, and shots before she is bred. She will require
supplementary food during the last three weeks or so of pregnancy.
In general, puppy food is formulated both for puppies and pregnant
or nursing bitches.

She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems. Dogs
can have miscarriages. Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the
bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies.
Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for
some breeds. You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an
emergency.

There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose
development went awry, but it was not aborted. Instead, it dries and
shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened
and ready to rot. Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the
causes. It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an
infected uterus after such a puppy.

Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus, cleft
palates and hare lips. These conditions require corrective surgery or
the puppy will die.

While the bitch is nursing the puppies, she will require about three
times the amount of food she normally requires! It is common for
nursing mothers to go out of coat at this time.

H. Caring for the Puppies.

1. Postnatal care

You do have a whelping box, right? You should have a sturdy, clean,
proper sized whelping box for the litter. It MUST include a
"pig-rail" around the edge to prevent the bitch from laying on or
smashing her pups. It should be big enought to allow the bitch to
turn around but small enough to prevent the pups from being "lost" in
the unused portions.

Newborn puppies MUST be kept warm. The temperature in the welping box
at birth should be 90 F. The temperature can then be decreased 2
degrees every other day. NEVER FEED A CHILLED PUPPY!!! If a puppy
becomes chilled it will cry continually and it will tuck its tail
between its little legs. A healthy, happy, litter with "purr" like a
swarm of bees and when feeding their tails will be straight out from
their bodies. Warm any chilled puppy by putting the puppy under your
shirt and under your armpit. The best method of warming a puppy is to
use a special whelping box heating pad with a towel over it to prevent
soiling the pad. Make sure the temerature does not go too high.
Heating lamps are ok but puppies can become dehydrated.

Large litters will require supplemental feedings if you want all the
puppies to survive. Your bitch may not be able to care for a very
large litter. You will need to get the pups rotating on shifts. For
the first two weeks you may have to supplement as much as every four
hours. Use a good prepared milk-supplement especially formulated for
puppies. If you get in a bind you can use a goat-milk reciepe
avilable in most books about breeding and whelping pups. You may have
to tube feed those pups that will not suckle from a bottle!

Are you going to remove the dewclaws or dock a tail? This must be done
by 3 days old MAX! Any later will not heal as nicely or quickly!

If you have a purebred litter, you must record the date of birth and
all of the pups (including the dead ones) in your record book. Then
you will need to fill out and send in your litter registration form.
You want to do this as soon as possible, since many registries can
take up to 6 weeks to return the forms for individual registration to
you.

You will have to keep the whelping box clean. For the first two weeks
the bitch will keep the pups pretty clean, but the bedding should be
changed twice a day at minimum. Starting week three, the pups start
to eliminate some on their own.. then you will need to clean much more
often!!!

At four weeks, the pups usually become very active and it this time
may require a larger area then the welping box...you will need a large
ex-pen or some way of confining them safely. You do have a place to
keep them that they are safe in and can't destroy? Puppies at this
stage can devastate a room or garage in hours.

At week five you will probably want to introduce the pups to weaning
food. Usually you will have to mush up the dry puppy food for the
pups to be able to eat it. Use warm water and let the food stand in a
bowl for about 2 hours.

At week six you should vaccination and worm the pups, and have them
checked for heartmurmers, hernias, males for testicles (yes you should
be able to feel them at 6 weeks!), deafness, and eye problems.

You should be socializing now too... And are you going to do any puppy
testing for temperaments? At seven weeks you should be calling up
those poeple with deposits on your pups and getting your paper work
all sorted out. Are your spay/neuter contracts ready? How about
pictures of the pups for your clients?

And this is just if everything goes perfectly! What happens if one of
the pups has a heart murmer, or a hernia? What about a deaf puppy?
What if your whole litter gets parvo or distemper? What happens if
one of the pups is affected with "Swimmer-puppy" syndrom? What about
fading-puppy syndrome? What happens if your bitch gets an infection
or mastitis? What if she dies?

2. Placing the puppies

After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing
your puppies. Time and time again, people breed a litter because
friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of
them will take one.

Eight weeks, you may begin placing those pups that are ready to go to
their new homes. Insecure pups may need more time, how are those
puppy tests coming? You can't place puppies earlier than 7.5 weeks or
so (no matter how much you may want to).

Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not
just hand them off to the first person who comes by? You are aware
that you won't always be able to sell all of your puppies locally,
aren't you? What assurances do you have that the puppies will not
wind up filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents
were thoughtlessly bred? Suppose you wind up keeping more of the
litter than you intended to? Suppose some of your puppies are
returned? Can you keep the extra puppies?

I. Considerations for Stud Dogs

Your male should be in top condition. He should be certified clear of
hip dysplasia (which means that he must be at least two years old).
His eyes should be checked annually. He should be clear of any
abnormalities common to his breed. No heart problems, no seizures, no
thyroid problems, etc. He should be clear of brucellosis. His
temperament should be good, and appropriate for his breed. If you
have such a dog, you will need to get your dog well known. This
generally involves showing your dog (in show, field, or obedience) and
doing other work with him. An unproven dog (that has no previous
puppies or only puppies too young to evaluate) will command a much
lower stud dog fee than a proven dog (with a record of puppies to
examine).

You must be prepared to board the bitch. The common procedure is for
the bitch to be shipped out to stud, so you will need facilities to
board bitches in heat. These facilities should be adequate for up to
a week of boarding and to prevent any mismating. You might wind up
with more than one bitch at a time -- can you board them all safely?

You must monitor the mating and be ready to intervene if necessary.
Not all dogs or bitches understand what to do, especially if it is the
first time for one or the other. It can be disastrous if two dogs are
left alone to mate. Additionally, if the mating doesn't take, are you
prepared to go through the whole thing again the next time the bitch
comes into season? Typical contracts call for free repeat breeding in
the case two or less puppies occur or the breeding doesn't take.

You need to be able to evalate the bitch's pedigree for compatibility
with your dog's. Any good points or bad points of the litter are
(rightly or not) attributed to the sire, so your dog's reputation is
at stake with each litter he sires. You should be reasonably
confident that the proposed breeding will result in good puppies.

If the owner of the bitch is a novice, are you prepared to assist with
advice on whelping and puppy care? These people will expect you to
have the answers. Sometimes entire litters of puppies are dumped on
the stud dog owner when the bitch's owners can no longer cope with
them because they didn't realize what a responsibility caring for a
litter involved. Are you ready to take care of and place your dog's
offspring if this should happen to you?

Are you prepared to deal with cases where you are certain your dog is
not the sire of the puppies but the bitch's owner insists that he is?
Or if the owner of the bitch insists that you must have allowed a
mismating to occur when she was boarded with you. Disputes of this
sort can become very ugly very quickly.

J. Genetics.

1. If a purebred dog of breed X mated with a purebred dog of breed Y,
both meeting health standards for their breed, is there a better
chance the offspring would be healthier than a same breed mating
because the gene pool is larger?

In terms of health alone the first answer would be that in breeding
two healthy dogs it shouldn't matter if they're the same of different
breeds, you're apt to get healthy pups. But this doesn't take into
account the question of recessives.

Suppose you breed two dogs of different breeds that both have the same
incidence of a recessive health problem. The pups would have the same
odds of having that health problem as purebred pups of either breed.

On the other hand, suppose the two dogs were of breeds that have no
recessive health problems in common. This would reduce or eliminate
the odds of the puppies of having the health problems of either breed.
This is the classic explanation for the theory of first generation
hybrid vigor. The resulting pups should not be bred though, since
they'd have a good chance of having the recessives from BOTH breeds,
so their offspring would be inclined to be worse off than the purebred
offspring of their grandparents.

Another *very* important point to keep in mind is that when a purebred
carrying a genetic defect is crossed with another breed or mixed breed,
the "bad" genes do NOT "go away" even though they may not be expressed
in the offspring. If crossed with another dog carrying the same defect,
the offspring of that breeding *will* demonstrate the defect.

Responsible breeders try to identify genetic diseases their dogs might be
carrying and to eliminate them by careful breeding. It is ironic, though
not surprising, that their efforts to identify and weed out genetic
problems have lead some to cry "look at all the genetic diseases purebred
dogs have!" A moment's careful thought will lead you to the conclusion
that mixed breeds carry the *same* harmful genes (their parents, or their
parents' parents, *were* purebreds, after all). The differences are
* with some recessive disorders (though not *all* genetic defects)
the disease is less likely to be *expressed* (though it can still be
inherited by offspring)
* you have lesser likelihood of ever identifying or eliminating any
harmful genes your mixed breed may be carrying.

2. When you breed two different breeds together, what kind of
variation can you expect?

Pfaffenberger's book has some interesting data on this. He did some
experiments with four different breeds. They were dogs of
approximately the same size, but very different physical appearance
AND behavior. The results he saw in the first and in subsequent mixed
generations are pretty interesting.

3. What is outcrossing?

Outcrossing is where the sire and dam are totally unrelated,
preferably for three or four generations. The true form of an
outcross is between two entirely different breeds because in reality
the members of most registered breeds come from a common ancestor
(althought it may be many, many generations back). It is very rare
for outcrossed puppies to be very uniform in appearance. Usually
there are a very large ranges of sizes, coats, colors, markings, and
other distinctive characteristics. This does usually result in a
heterozygous litter (the pups have a wide range of genetic material
spread among them). This does tend to produce healthier puppies, but
it is not always so. Also, many of the desired characteristics of the
breed are quickly lost (meaning the pups are not usually show quality
-- although there are exceptions!). Also, these pups do not tend to
reliably reproduce themselves (which makes breeders even more broke).
If you are dedicated enough, you can eventually continue breeding by
outcrossing alone (but don't expect instant or quick results). You
should pick dogs that complement eachother well and are similar in
general appearance. This is a long hard road to eventually developing
a line. Through outcrossing, many health problems can quickly be
eliminated (or just as quickly added into your breeding), but usually
you do sacrifice some show quality and producibility.

You have to remember that dogs that appear totally healthy may be
carriers of genetic problems. To find this out, test mating is done
to a dog that is affected with the genetic problem (resulting usually
in puppies that are both affected and non-affected carriers) or by
inbreeding to a related dog that also doesn't show the signs of being
affected (usually littermates are used) this will usually result in
some puppies free of the problem, some puppies as carriers, and some
puppies affected if both dogs carry the problem gene (this is not as
accurate as breeding to an affected dog, but you are less likely to
have to put all the puppies down).

There are variations on outcrossing. A "true" outcross could be a dog
that has totally unrelated dogs bred together throughout the pedigree.
This is very rare. "Linecrossing" is a form of outcrossing where dogs
from unrelated lines are bred to produce a new line. The sire and dam
are usually very linebred from their prospective lines and the
resulting puppies are varied in appreance, some looking like the
sire's line and some looking like the dam's line and some looking like
mixtures of both lines.

4. How about line breeding?

Line breeding is when the sire and the dam are distantly related:
e.g., grandsire to granddaughter, granddam to grandson, second
cousins, half cousins, uncle to niece, aunt to nephew..... This is
the most common form of breeding in purebred dogs. Though this
breeding strategy, new genes are slowly introduced and unwanted genes
are slowly replaced. This method sacrifices little overally quality
in terms of show quailty. Usually the puppies are rather close in
general conformation. The only problem with this method is that it
often takes several generations to get poor genes out, (or adding
desired genes in) resulting in many puppies that have the same genetic
problems (or virtues) that their parents have. Because some breeders
are more interested in winning, they do not place the affected puppies
on spay/neuter contracts. This is both a blessing and a curse for the
breed. If the breeder is very careful, affected pups can be used
wisely to prevent loss of quality, but still remove the affected genes
by only breeding the affected pups to known non-carrier relatives.
This way the breeder can again try to "edit out" the bad genes. It
takes longer this way but less show quality is lost in the process.
This process results in dogs that will often reproduce their same
level of quality. This is refered to as reaching homozygous litters
(more genes of the same kind apparent in the puppies).

Inbreeding and linebreeding differ only in degree. Linebreeding is
less likely to cause harm than inbreeding. Inbreeding is not for
novices. Knowledge of genetics and the breed is required for success.
For good results it must be well-planned and breeders must be ready
for whatever problems it presents.

5. And inbreeding?

Inbreeding is where the sire and the dam are closely related: mother
to son, father to daughter, sister to brother, half sister to half
brother, cousin to cousin. It is the quickest way to find out what
poor genes are in the line and what dominant characteristics are in
the line.

Although many people are disgusted with the idea of this family
incest, it is an extremely useful tool for diagnosing what genes are
present. If the genes for bad eyes are present, but hidden or
resessive, this will bring them out to their full extent. If there
isn't any bad genes, then the puppies will be of very close uniformity
and very able to reproduce themselves (theroretically). This is a
homozygous breeding. The resulting puppies will have a lot of genetic
material that is the same as their parents and grandparents and will
be close genetically to each other.

Inbreeding doesn't introduce new genes and does not eliminate bad
genes that the line already has. It only shifts them around like a
rubix cube. This often results in litters with high show potential.
But there are drawbacks. Inbreeding exclusively will eventually lead
to infertility. It's like a xerox machine. After so many copies, you
have to renew the ink. The same with dogs, you have to introduce new
genes.

Inbreeding increases the chance that a gene obtained from the sire
will match one obtained from the dam, both stemming from the common
ancestor(s) on which the individual was inbred. Thus, inbreeding
tends to make animals homozygous rather than heterozygous. The
inbreeding coefficient measures the resulting increase in
homozygousity. All breeds have a given degree of homozygosity the
mating of two dogs from the same breed would not produce a
recognizable specimen of the breed!

Inbreeding can increase homozygosity and decrease heterozygosity. So
it can duplicate both desirable and harmful alleles, both of which can
be unsuspected in the line, and may appear. Inbreeding does NOT
create anomalies, it brings present anomalies to the surface. Even
when the anomalies are present, inbreeding might not reveal them.

An increase in harmful recessives is undesirable but it is not a major
drawback if they are identified early. The effect of inbreeding on
major polygenic traits is greater. Generally, traits that are highly
inherited (ie largely additively controlled) are not adversely
affected by inbreeding but, traits under non-additive control,
especially those tied to dominance and thus not of high heritability,
are often markedly harmed by inbreeding.

An inbred bitch produces outbred offspring when bred to an unrelated
sire and an outbred bitch whelps inbred progeny if bred to a related
sire.

5. OK, how do pedigrees figure into this?

Remember that it is difficult to spot unaffected carriers. When an
affected dog shows up, its pedigree is often examined for likely
carriers. For example, PRA is a common problem in many breeds. There
are dogs that come down with PRA that have a certain ancestor in
common. That ancestor may then be considered a possible carrier and
line breeding on him is avoided. This is a simplistic picture,
obviously, since it's possible for an unaffected non-carrier of
PRA to come from an unaffected carrier that came from an affected
dog (therefore the affected dog is in the unaffected dog's pedigree).
If a blood test is ever developed that shows the presence of
the recessive in an unaffected dog, then much more accurate
breedings may be done.

There is rarely only a single problem a breeder is trying to screen
for. Suppose a suspected carrier of PRA is known for producing
excellent hips. A breeder might therefore introduce that bloodline
into theirs for the hips, and be willing to have the possibility of
PRA show up in the line. In screening out one problem you might
have to accept the possibility of another appearing.

Examining the pedigrees also lets you know what percent of ancestry
the dogs share (since the relationships are often much more complex
than simply cousins or aunt/uncle, the degree of common ancestry
is often given as a percentage instead) and decide whether or not
it's acceptable given your current goals.

6. What are like-to-like matings and compensatory matings?

Like to Like: Like to like mating implies the best to the best and the
worst to the worst where the worst is not used at all. For most
breeders, like to like matings are between dogs which resemble each
other greatly and so similar type dogs are bred. These dogs may or
may not be closely related.

The pups resemble their parents because of the genes in common with
them. If those parents resembled each other their progeny would be
even more like their parents. This tends to make the population look
more uniform, however there is little increase in prepotency from this
technique.

Compensatory Mating: This unlike to unlike mating is used by breeders
to correct for a defect in an animal by mating it to another animal
that might correct for the defect. The system is basically simple but
the breeder must identify faults and virtues and it requires breed
knowledge. The pedigrees of both dogs should be examined carfully to
try to identify the ways in which the dogs differ and what the
expected outcomes could be. A correct dog and not one who errs in the
opposite direction is required. That is, if you want to improve
structure, look for a dog with correct structure and not an overbuilt
dog. This technique often results in only one or two pups with the
combination desired.

7. But this is all very vague and complicated!

Yes, it is. There are no easy answers, and there are different things
to consider in every breed. This uncertainty with respect to genetic
inheritance is exactly the reason that breeding is so difficult to do
right. It helps immensely to have a "mentor", someone who is familiar
not only with the breeds, but the lines your dog belongs to -- advice
from such a knowledgeable person is often extremely valuable.

If we knew everything about genetics, we wouldn't *have* problems with
our dogs any more. We'd eliminate Hip Dysplasia, PRA, heart problems,
thyroid problems, seizures, etc. within a few generations if we knew
everything. Unfortunately it's an art that few people are actually
very good at.

K. References.

"So you want to use your Dog At Stud?" From the Literary Spot, the
newsletter of the Central MD Dalmation Club 12/89 via Retriever
Believer, the newsletter of the Labrador Retriever Club of Southern
California 8/91.

Tucker, Kathy. "Why are you Breeding?", printed in various newsletters.

Whitney, Leon E (DVM). _How to Breed Dogs_ 384 pg. Many case studies
on breeds, breed crosses for dominance studies, Myths and fallacies
about breeding dogs, inheritance of traits (such as temperament,
health, intelligence, and abilities).

Wilcox, Bonnie (DVM). "Things to Think about Before Breeding Your Dog."
DVM, printed in various newsletters.

Willis, Malcolm B. _Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders_. Howell,
1992. 228 pgs with appendix for calculations -- several graphs,
charts, and pictures.

Willis, Malcolm B. _Genetics of the Dog_. 417 pgs with breed specific
information on many breeds -- plus several charts and graphs.

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc/part1
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



ASSORTED TOPICS (Part I).

A. A New Baby.
B. Docking and Cropping.
C. Dog Food Analyses and Comparisons.
D. Dog Vision.
E. Early Neutering.
F. Example of a Spay/Neuter Contract.
G. Facts and Opinions about Neutering.
H. Finding a Home for a Dog.
I. Guard or Protection Dogs.
J. Housetraining Topics.
K. Invisible and Electric Fences.

(Part I)

A. A New Baby.

Introduce the dog to all the new things you get for a new baby: let it
investigate the crib, baby clothes and that sort of thing. Dogs
generally seem to know that something is up, especially as the woman
gets closer to her time.

After the baby is born, but before you bring it home, see if you can
take something home for the dog to smell, like a blanket or an
undershirt the baby had on. Let the dog smell it thoroughly.

When the baby comes home, try to hold everything else normal, feeding
time, any morning walks, the like. When you bring the baby in, put
the dog on a down-stay and introduce the dog to the baby. Have one of
the parents hold the baby in their lap and let the dog sniff the baby.
Let it lick the baby if you're up to that, but do NOT let the dog
nuzzle (push with its nose) or paw at the baby. It is important to
introduce the dog to the baby. This makes it clear to the dog that
the baby is a new member of the pack. If you exclude the dog from the
baby, it may try to attack this "non-member" to protect its pack.

Include the dog in the daily routine with the baby. Give it the same,
if not a little more, amount of attention it always got. You do not
want it to feel like it has been displaced or ignored in favor of the
baby.

B. Docking and Cropping.

Docking is the practice of removing a dog's tail. Cropping is the
removal of a good portion of its ears so that they stand up.
Typically, these procedures are done when the dog is very young,
several weeks of age.

The practices have their origin hundreds of years ago when dogs were
cropped and docked to prevent injury to those extremities. Ears can
be vulnerable in fights, tails can be vulnerable to underbrush when
hunting. For certain breeds, docking and cropping is required by the
breed standard. The exception is in countries that outlaw the
practice, such as the United Kingdom and Australia.

Today, there is little practical use for docking and cropping a dog.
There are movements to change breed standards to reflect this,
although some people feel very strongly the other way.

There is at least one practical reason to have some hunting dogs'
tails docked. A hunter once described his experiences with a hunting
dog he decided not to dock -- and was horrified several years later
with the sores that the dog would pick up on hunting trips. He then
had the tail docked, but of course the procedure is more painful to an
adult dog. If your dog does not hunt, this is moot.

C. Dog Food Analyses and Comparisons.

Dog nutrition seems to be almost as much a religion as it is a
science. Different breeders will feed 1/2 Purina Pro-Plan and 1/2
Pedigree, another will cook homemade food, and yet others use Nutro
Max, Eukanuba, etc. for their puppies. Thumbing through the
Rottweiler Quarterly yields breeders using Eagle, Purina Pro Plan,
Science Diet, Nature's Recipe, Natural Life, Nutro Max and several
others. Even if you can find the best food for one dog it may or may
not be the best food for the next one.

The Colorado State University Vet hospital did some studies of the
various food. This was a few years back. They tested foods like
Science Diet, generic, Purina, Waynes, and lots of others. Waynes
came out ahead in nutrition. You might try contacting the Vet school
for a copy of the research.

The following is from Helen M. Berschneider, DVM, Assistant Professor
of Physiology, who is a "Puppy Food Expert" at NCSU College of
Veterinary Medicine, in an October 8, 1991 written reply:

Part of the confusion over whether or not a puppy should get puppy
food may stem from the definitions of "puppy chow", "growth" food,
"maintenance" food and "all purpose" dog chow. The definitions of the
terms actually refer to the purposes of the diets. One of the
requirements on the label of any pet food is a statement of purpose,
so it is possible to determine the type of food it is from the label.
Good quality puppy or growth food are specially formulated and tested
for their effectiveness in supporting proper growth and good health in
growing dogs from weaning to adulthood. Maintenance foods are
formulated to provide adequate nutrition for the mature dog engaged in
moderate activity, but do not necessarily provide the proper nutrient
balance for growth. Maintenance foods should not be confused with
"All Purpose" foods. All purpose dog foods are intended to meet or
exceed the nutrient requirements for all stages of the dog's life from
weaning to old age, not just adulthood. These foods can be identified
by some statement such as: "Complete nutrition for the entire life of
your dog." Purina Dog Chow is one example of such a food. Based on
these definitions, the answer to your question is YES, in most cases a
puppy should be fed puppy food until he reaches ninety percent of his
expected adult weight. This will be less than a year for small breeds
and up to eighteen months for the giant breeds. However, most puppies
should also do just find on an "all purpose" food, as well. By
definition, these foods must be formulated to meet or exceed the
nutritional requirements of all life stages, including growth.

This has probably answered your basic question, but I thought that
some additional information might help you in your discussions with
other dog owners. Comparing dog foods can be a tricky business and
given the complete lack of substantial information on the product
label, it can be almost impossible for the average consumer. Before
comparing foods you need to consider how the dogs eat the food. Dogs
do not care how many pounds of food you give them as long there is
sufficient energy in the bowls to meet their needs. Put another way,
dogs eat calories, not cups or pounds. If you have two foods, A and
B, and A has 2000 kcal per pound while B has 1000 kcal per pound, a
dog that requires 1000 kcal of energy per day will eat one pound of
food B but only a half pound of food A. The point here is that in
order to compare foods, you have to compare them based on the amount
the dog will be consuming. For example, if our two foods had twenty
percent protein for A and ten percent protein for B, even though A has
twice the protein content of B, if our dog consumed equal caloric
amounts of each food he would get exactly the same amount of protein
in each meal. If we compare the average nutrient content of puppy
food, maintenance food and all purpose food on a nutrient per pound
basis, the results frequently don't make any sense. There appears to
be wide variation from company to company regarding how much protein,
fat or calcium a puppy needs. If the nutrient contents can be compared
on a "per calorie basis" the similarities between various foods of the
same type become apparent and the differences between puppy food and
maintenance food are more readily demonstrated. When analyzed in this
fashion, you will find that growth foods generally contain more
protein, fat, calcium and phosphorus than maintenance foods. These are
the nutrients most critical for growth. Analysis of all purpose food
tends to closely resemble that of growth food. This would explain why
puppies generally do so well on the all purpose foods. There are some
marketing motives in producing puppy foods, however, and these may
lead to less than optimal nutrition for a puppy. If a company
marketing an all purpose food opts to produce a puppy food, but not a
complete line of life-stage related products, there may be a tendency
to increase the "growth nutrients" in the puppy food above the amounts
present in the all purpose food. Since the all purpose food already
met the nutritional requirements for growth, the new puppy food might
be close to providing excess amounts of protein or calcium. This is
not necessarily the case, but it has been known to happen and might
contribute to the poor performance of many litters on some puppy foods
as compared to those on all purpose foods.

The bottom line on the different types of food is essentially that
optimal nutrition for the animal comes from matching the nutrient
requirements for his life stage with the nutrient balance in the diet
he is fed. If a pet food company has this philosophy toward dog food
it will be reflected in their product line; specific foods for
specific purposes. These are frequently the premium pet foods. All
purpose foods are fine for most puppies. The major question which
should be considered is if this food has everything a growing puppy
needs, does it have more than an adult dog needs and could this excess
be harmful in the long run? So the problem may not be with feeding a
puppy on all-purpose food, but in feeding this food, essentially a
puppy food in disguise, to an adult for a long period of time. There
is no strong evidence to support the idea that the excess nutrients in
these all purpose foods might be harmful. For now it is a
philosophical question, but one that bears some thought.

The one other topic which I noted in your various [rec.pets.dogs]
discussions is the role of nutrition in the development of bone
disease in dogs. The development of bone disease depends on a variety
of factors including genetics, environment and nutrition. The only
nutritional factors clearly implicated in canine bone disease are
calcium and phosphorus imbalances and certain vitamin deficiencies or
excesses. In many cases excesses can be as bad, or worse than
deficiencies. There is some evidence that high protein or high
carbohydrate diets may contribute to problems in growing horses,
however, this information does not necessarily transfer to dogs which
have a very different metabolism. The best advice that can be given
at this point is to provide growing dogs with a nutritionally balanced
diet intended to support growth and to avoid development of obesity in
puppies. Supplements should be used ONLY on the advice of a qualified
nutritionist to correct a known nutritional deficiency."

D. Dog Vision

Excerpted from: Vaughan, Dana (Ph.D.), "Canine:Color Vision,"
_Gazette_, May 1991:

The article explained the following about "color vision" in
dogs/people:

Normal Human Color range includes VIBGYOR (each letter is a color
Violet->Red). The normal ability to see this wide range of color is
due to the presence of three cone cell types: blue, green and red
cones.

The range of colors seen by deuteranopic (green-blind) humans and dogs
are probably the same. Color Vision in the VIB portion of the spectrum
is normal. However, both deuteranopes and dogs lack the green cones
and thus have a color vision deficit in GYO portion of the spectrum.
This means that blue-green appears white. Colors more toward the Red
(R) portion of the spectrum appears more and more yellowish. Red
itself thus appears yellow.

Note that it is difficult for a dog to distinguish between objects
which are green, yellow and orange. Note also that the colors red and
orange are hard for a dog to tell apart, but that "red" is easily
distinguished from blue.

E. Early Neutering

Many animal shelters have instituted mandatory neutering policies in
an attempt to reduce the staggering number of unwanted dogs in the US.
However, compliance is difficult to ensure, even with financial
incentives and inexpensive neutering clinics. Paired with the current
practice among US veterinarians to neuter at about 5-8 months, it is
very difficult to ensure that animals that should not be bred do in
fact not breed.

Some animal shelters, in responding to these problems, are looking
into early neuter programs. Under these programs, puppies and kittens
are neutered before they leave the shelter. Widespread adoption of
early neuter programs by shelters should have a positive impact on the
pet overpopulation problem. The advantages for responsible breeders
are also obvious: pet-quality puppies can be neutered before they are
sold, assuring the breeder that there will be no further puppies out
of those puppies.

Obviously a number of questions have been raised over the appropriate
age for nuetering animals, and the safety of anesthetizing young
puppies. Some new data is now available that shows

* Early neutering did not affect food intake or weight gain.
* Early neutering did not result in inactivity or lethargy, in fact
the neutered dogs were slightly more active than their sexually
intact counterparts.
* Early neutering contributed to a slightly higher growth rate
* Seven-week old puppies tolerated anesthesia well.
* Spaying younger puppies was easier than spaying at the traditional
age since there was less fat and less vasculature (resulting in
less blood loss), reducing surgery time.

Since there are important differences between neutering 7-week-old
puppies and 7-month-old puppies, not every veterinarian can perform
the early neutering surgery. The more extensive experience many vets
have in neutering at the traditional age generally means they will not
opt to change, thus for now it may be difficult to find vets
experienced with early neutering.

Summarized from

Marrion, Ruth, DMV. "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

F. Example of a Spay/Neuter Contract.

____(Your name and address)___________________agrees to sell the
following animal to ___________(Buyer's name and address)___ for the
sum of __________________.

BREED: SEX:
SIRE: DAM:
DATE OF BIRTH: LITTER NUMBER:
MARKINGS:

Registration papers will be held by the seller until proof of
spaying/neutering has be received from a licensed, reputable
veterinarian. When proof has been received via a receipt and/or
written statement for the vet, the registration papers and the sum of
__($50 or whatever seems appropriate)___ will be forwarded to the
buyer's address. Spaying/neutering of this animal is _required_ to
receive the registration papers. It is understood at the time of sale
that this dog is not considered to be of show or breeding quality, but
is a representative of its breed and is structurally and
temperamentally suited as a companion and/or obedience dog. This dog
is guaranteed for two weeks against any general health irregularities,
and it is recommended that the buyer have the puppy examined by a
reputable veterinarian during this period. A refund of purchase
price, upon return of the puppy, will be given for any puppy found
unsatisfactory during this time limit. No other guarantee is given
except in the case of a genetic or temperamental defect which
develops, at any time during the dog's life, to the extent that it
renders the dog unsuitable as a pet. In the case of temperamental
defect the buyer agrees to return the dog to the seller for a full
refund of purchase price. In the case of genetic or hereditary
defect, the buyer will have the option of a replacement under the same
conditions stated in this contract when one becomes becomes available,
_or_ a refund of the purchase price. If at any time, the above dog
must leave permanent ownership of the buyer, the seller must be
notified. This dog is not to be placed in a shelter or humane society
without prior notification to the seller. Failure to follow this
contract will entitle the seller to the amount of $400 as a result of
breach of contract and any legal fees associated with legal actions.

The buyer understands that this is a legally binding contract
and that a copy of this contract will be forwarded to the American
Kennel Club to prevent fraudulent registration of the described dog.

Seller:_______________________________________ Date:______________
Buyer:________________________________________ Date:______________

_____________________________________________________________________

If you read the contract for its legal content, you'll find that if
the owner is your average "joe-pet-owner" he'll benefit by getting a
very sound puppy and a small bit of money back from this deal after
the neutering is done. That's it, nothing tricky. If, however, the
new pet owner does just get the puppy with no intention to keep it
later or no intention to follow the contract they will be subjected to
quite a stiff fine and legal fees.

G. Facts and Opinions about Neutering.

Remember, "neutering" can refer both to spaying bitches or castrating
dogs. An "intact" bitch or dog is one that has not been neutered.

1. Practical reasons for keeping your dog intact

* Conformation showing requires dogs and bitches to be intact.
* Breeding stock (obviously) must remain intact

2. Practical reasons for neutering your dog

* Not a show-quality or breeding-quality dog.
* It is a working dog (such as Seeing Eye or Guide dog) and must
not be distracted by the opposite sex.
* Medical and health benefits.
* Its breeding days are over.

3. Definite myths about neutering

"My bitch will become fat and lazy if I spay her." Not true. If you
hold to the same exercise and feeding schedule after surgery that you
did before surgery, her weight and activity will not change except as
a normal function of aging. Bitches that become lazy after spaying do
so because of YOUR expectations: you take her out less because you
think she's lazier, and so around and around it goes. Remember, too,
that the age at which many bitches are spayed (6-8 months) is also the
age at which they begin to settle down from puppyhood into adulthood.
Studies done on early neutering (at 8-10 weeks) show that such puppies
remain on par behaviorally with their unneutered counterparts. If
anything, they are often *more* active than their unneutered
counterparts.

"I want her to have one litter before spaying because that will
improve her personality." This is not true. Clinical studies show no
permanent changes occur as a result of pregnancy. Behavioral changes
that do occur are an effect of hormonal levels and lactation and are
strictly temporary. If your behavior toward her does not change from
before her pregnancy, her behavior will not change, either.

4. Ethical considerations over neutering

4.1. What is your goal with neutering your dog or leaving it intact?

Unless you know what you want to do with your dog, it may be difficult
to make the decision to neuter. You must take into account how you
will prevent unwanted breeding so long as your animal is intact. For
example, you must not let it roam. You must have it under control at
all times.

Neutering your dog will not solve behavioral problems. Solving
behavioral problems is a matter of training. Both intact and
neutered animals, properly trained, make fine housepets.

Neutering your dog does guarantee that you will have no unwanted
puppies. It does guarantee that *certain behaviors* related to
reproduction will be eliminated. This includes dog interest in the
heat-scent, and bitch agitation during heat. It eliminates certain
physical manifestations in the bitch, such as discharge from the
vulva.

It *may* reduce the incidence of urine marking, mounting, and
intermale aggression in male dogs. Interestingly enough, the *age* at
which an animal is neutered does not affect the likelihood that
neutering will have an impact on a particular behaviors. *Experience*
seems to play more of a role in determining which behaviors are
retained. That is, if habits have been established, neutering is not
likely to alter them.

Behavior patterns common to both males and females, such as protective
barking, playfulness, and attention-seeking are not affected by
neutering. No basic personality or behavior changes occur as a result
of neutering, except that undesirable male behaviors may be reduced
or eliminated.

It is possible to sterilize dogs without neutering. This means
severing the vas deferens in the dog and the fallopian tubes in the
bitch. You eliminate the possiblity of puppies, and there is *no*
change in behavior because the hormones have not been altered: the
dogs are still interested in bitches and the bitches will still go
through heat. However, they will be sterile. You may have to look
hard to find a vet that will do this, as it is uncommon.

If you intend to breed, the decision is easy. If you are putting your
dog to other work, you may be worried about negative or positive
behavioral changes from neutering in your dog affecting its work. If
you simply have a pet you do not wish to breed, neutering is entirely
appropriate.

4.2. What are the medical advantages/dangers of spaying and neutering?

Medical advantages:

Your bitch is no longer subject to reproductive cancers, such as
mammary cancer (the most common tumor of the sexually intact bitch).
Bitches spayed prior to their first estrus have about 0.5 percent risk
of developing mammary cancer. If spaying is delayed after the second
heat period, the chance of developing a tumor jumps 8-26 percent.
Bitches spayed later than this remain at the same level of risk, 8-26
percent. The incidence of pyometra is eliminated in spayed bitches.
Pyometra is a common disease of intact bitches, particularly in
bitches over 6 years of age, although it can occur at any age.

Your dog is less at risk from prostate disease and testicular cancer,
both of which can be life-threatening. Even non-malignant growths are
a threat because the growth can cause infection that can eventually
kill your dog.

Medical disadvantages:

General anesthesia is a risk to any dog. A small percentage of spayed
bitches may develop estrogen imbalances in later life that causes
incontinence (or rather, "leaking"), which is easily controlled with
dosages of estrogen. There are no medical disadvantages (other than
anesthetic risk) to male dogs.

4.3. What are the psychological effects on your dog?

There is wide disagreement over this, but there are various relevant
facts to note.

First, neutered dogs are no longer concerned with reproduction. This
is a psychological effect, but the extent of it is confined to its
behavior with respect to heat.

The argument is often over whether or not neutered dogs remain
"aggressive." In particular, guard dogs and working dogs are often
thought to lose something by neutering. This is counterable with
specific examples: e.g., Seeing Eye dogs are always neutered and they
are fine, working dogs. There are many neutered animals that are
dominant over intact animals. For each claim made about the effect of
neutering an animal, a counter-example can be cited. This means that
the effect of neutering is largely dependent on the individual dog.
And, most likely, because dogs are so attuned to their owners,
dependent on the owner. Dogs are very good at picking up
expectations: if you *expect* your dog to mellow after neutering, it
probably will, whether or not the neutering was actually responsible
for it.

The question also arises over whether dogs "miss" sex or not. Insofar
as neutered animals never display interest in sex afterwards, the
argument is fairly strong that dogs do not miss their sexual
capability. "Mounting" or "humping" is a dominance related behavior
that any alpha dog, of either sex, intact or neutered, will engage in.

4.4. What are the ethical issues?

There is a good deal of controversy over the practice of neutering
animals. Please note that some viewpoints are culturally determined:
for example, many countries in Europe, especially Scandinavian ones,
do not have any sort of pet population problem; whereas in the US,
millions of dogs are put to sleep annually because of uncontrolled and
thoughtless reproduction. Thus, any debate over the relative ethics
of neutering dogs must be careful to keep the background of the debate
participants in mind. Your personal decision should also take this
factor, as well as others, in making that decisions. In brief, here
is a summary, pro and con, of the various opinions and points that
proponents of either side make.

PRO CON

Neutering prevents unwanted You can control your own dog's
puppies. reproduction.

It prevents certain behaviors You can control your dog; again,
such as roaming, being in heat why should we take something away
going after bitches in heat. from the dog?

There are medical benefits to There are valid moral objections
neutering. to "tampering" with your dog.

Neutered dogs are content with Who wants to have neutering possibly
established pack orders. affect your dog's abilities.

Dominance is unrelated to intact- But there are also cases where the
ness; many neutered animals are dog lost some edge.
just as, if not more so, energetic
determined and aggressive as their
intact counterparts.

Many bitches perform the same But why take the chance on an
duties as well as dogs; individual dog's temperament
testosterone is not the magic changing?
ingredient, training and
individual temperament is.

5. References

Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.

Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al. "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.

Johnson SD. "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically

neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.

LeRoux PH. "Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and

body mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian

autotransplants in the stomach wall," in J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.

Marrion, Ruth, DMV. "New Views on Neutering," in _Purebred

Dogs/American Kennel Gazette_, April 1992 (pp50-54).

Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V. "Gonadectomy in

immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral

development," in JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.

Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS. "Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A

review," in JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.

Thrusfield MV. "Association between urinary incontinence and spaying

bitches," in Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.

Weiss, Seymour N. "Dog Breeding: It's Not for Everyone," in DogsUSA,
1992 Annual, p 121. Vol 7, no 1.

Wilcox, Bonnie, DVM, "Tell Me Why" in Dog Fancy, March 1992 (v23n3),
discusses neutering of the male dog.

H. Finding a Home for a Dog.

For whatever reason, you may need to find a home for a dog. List
everywhere: newspaper, bulletin boards, computer bulletin boards,
newsletters, anywhere you like. But limit sharply: don't adopt out if
they don't meet standards. Minimal standards: will neuter as soon as
the dog's old enough, committed to a 20 year responsibility, they have
a home or apartment that permits pets, knowledgeable about dog health
and behavior or committed to become so. Do charge a nominal fee
unless you know the adopter well; this keeps away those collecting
animals for research. (You can donate all or part of the money to
animal causes if you like.)

There are many rescue organizations for both purebred and mixed-breed
dogs. You should be able to look them up in a local directory
listing.

I. Guard or Protection Dogs.

Many people consider getting a dog for protection or guarding
property. Toward this end, "ferocious dogs," such as Doberman
Pinschers, Rottweilers, and other large dogs are procured. In many
cases, the dogs will be encouraged to bark, bite, etc.

This is an *extremely poor* approach.

In the first place, many burglers are primarily deterred by
*attention*. If your dog barks, that may be all that is needed. And
virtually any grown dog that is attached to its family will bark when
stranger approaches. There is no need to get a "vicious" dog.

A *properly* trained protection and attack dog is a considerable
investment of time and money. In addition *you* must understand how
to keep it trained. You will throw money down the drain if you buy
such a dog with no idea of how it is trained or how to reinforce the
training.

In addition, many dogs that are advertised as "trained attack dogs"
are in fact poorly trained, and may cause you serious trouble when it
goes for your neighbor's child.

Basically, if you want protection, put in a burglar alarm and start a
Neighborhood Watch program. Neither of these security assets will
sell you down the river for chuck steak and neither will be a
potential liability. Choose your dog as a companion -- choose it
well, for it will be your companion for quite a few years -- and
accept its contributions to your security profile as a bonus.

J. Housetraining Topics

1. Getting the dog to go consistently in one area

Every time you take the dog out, take it to the same spot and,
preferably, give it a command like "potty" or whatever.

If the dog is already in the yard and decides to go to the bathroom,
distract the dog by yelling NO (or clapping or whistling) and take it
to the spot it's supposed to go (even if it's finished already) and
give the command to go to the bathroom. Don't yell or correct
harshly, just distract it enough to stop the behavior and give you an
opportunity to move it to the right spot.

It helps if the spot is marked out. A common way to do this is to dig
out a square at least several inches deep, line up 4x4's along the
edge and fill with gravel.

2. Housetraining an older dog

With regards to housetraining an older dog, it can actually be easier
to do this. Puppies do not have the physical capacity for "holding"
it until they are 4 months old or so. Before that you are just doing
damage control and trying to get the concept across to them. Older
dogs, especially ones that have been kept outdoors in a kennel, will
not want to go indoors because it doesn't feel right. Follow the same
rules that you would with any other dog during housetraining: out
after every meal, out after every nap, and out every two hours
otherwise. And don't just put them out in the yard and expect them to
do their business. Take them to a specified spot and wait with them
until they do their stuff. Take that opportunity to teach them a word
to "go" too, if they don't already know one.

And, when they go, outdoors: PRAISE THEM! If they have an accident
and you catch IN THE ACT, then tell them NO and take them to their
spot to finish, praise them when they do it there. If you don't
actually catch them in the act, then quietly, clean it up, control
your temper, and pretend it didn't happen. They will learn rather
quickly but you *must* watch them at all times when they are in the
house until you learn to read their signs and anticipate problems.

3. Sudden onset of marking

There are several possible causes for a dog that suddenly starts
marking (urinating) in the house. First, rule out medical problems
with your vet.

If you've just moved into a new house and your dog starts marking,
it's probably to claim the house. Try leaving your dirty laundry all
over the house for a few days so that YOU mark it as yours. Take it
up after a few days.

4. Peeing in one spot

For a dog that pees in a particular place in the house, leaving
laundry in that spot can also work to discourage it. Dogs may
consider little-used parts of your house sufficiently "distant" from
the den that it's OK to pee there. Your laundry there marks it as
"den". Also, you can take them to these distant or used spots and do
some obedience or other dominance work with them there.

It also helps to actually catch the dog in the act. You can then yell
"NO" to distract it, and then take it outside. This works well for
dogs that simply think its OK there because its "distant" and you
haven't specifically said not to. You MUST catch it in the act,
though, yelling at it *after* all's said and done will accomplish
absolutely nothing.

Be sure to clean up that spot thoroughly with enzyme based cleaners.

K. Invisible and Electric Fences.

There are a variety of fences that are called invisible fences. Each
is detailed below.

1. The Invisible Fence

Called Invisible Fences, Radio Fences, and Freedom Fences.

This is an arrangement where electric wire is buried around the
property and the dog wears a collar that shocks it if it gets too
close to the electric wire. This kind of a "fence" does not depend on
the presence of a physical fence, although it could certainly augment
one. Points to consider:

* You must *train* the dog to understand what is going on, you can't
just expect to put it on and have it work.
* This does not prevent other dogs (or people) from coming in and
bothering your dog, unless it is supplemented by a physical fence.
* If your dog somehow gets outside the perimeter of the fence with
its collar on, it will be shocked when attempting to *re-enter*!
(The collar will not shock the dog beyond a given distance regardless
of which side the dog is on.)

2. Electric fences

Many owners, when faced with a dog that persistently digs out or
scales the backyard fence, will run a "hot" wire along the bottom of
the fence or along the top of the fence. This often works quite well,
to the point where the presence of the wire, whether hot or not, will
deter escape. Points to consider:

* You should *not* shock puppies. Wait until the dog is fully grown.
* For digging, bury the wire under the fence. The depth will depend
on how deep your dog is willing to dig.
* For scaling the fence, run it along the top of the fence. If the
dog is jumping the fence, you will either need to make the fence
taller, or try the invisible fence method.
* This is not foolproof, dogs have been known to get around these, too.
* Do not make a fence solely of electrified wires. They should be
put up on wooden fences.

(Continued in Assorted Topics, Part II.)

[Cindy Tittle Moore]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/misc/part2
Last-modified: 04 Jul 1993



ASSORTED TOPICS (Part II).

A. Owner Allergies.
B. Pet Doors.
C. Pet Insurance.
D. Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
E. Photographing Black Dogs
F. Record Keeping.
G. Removing Odors and Stains.
H. Separation Anxiety.
I. Travel and International Travel.
J. Vicious Dogs.
K. Waste Composters.
L. Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

(Part II)
A. Owner Allergies.

You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies. This can be expensive, but worth it, especially
if you have other allergies as well. They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them (you should be aware that the
shots do not always work). Be sure to find an allergy specialist
familiar with dog allergies: there are far too many doctors out there
that will simply say "Get rid of your pets." Other approaches may be
used as well: cortisone nasal sprays, eye drops, etc. Air filters
often help, as well as reducing the amount of wall-to-wall carpeting,
if possible. Find someone who will work with your particular problem.

Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems. It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem. Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are
allergic to the dander. Still others are not specifically allergic to
dogs, but are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an
*additional* irritant that is sufficent when combined with other
allergens to provoke a reaction. In yet other cases, people are
allergic to a dog *licking* them. You must find out which is true for
your case.

Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat. Others do well with poodles and schnauzers
and airedales who have a different type of coat. A lot of people do
well with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are
supposed to have hair much more like human hair.

This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
aggravate the problem.

In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems. There is also a spray available that you put on the dog
that is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
number you can call for more information.

B. Pet Doors.

Some points:

* Get one that at least has magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens. This
would cut down on the drafts.

* Size is deceptive. Dogs don't really need as much space as you
might think to get in and out.

* Installation is usually very easy. Some models fit into patio
doors and are removable. Make sure the one you get is lockable or
blockable. If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
attach to.

* The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it. In particular, it
could make fire insurance claims tricky. And if you sell the
house, you will have to fix the hole first.

* Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
even if they can't crawl through themselves. Ideally, you should
have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
are gone, say on vacation.

Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended. RC Steele stocks them.
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).

There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar. Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs. These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
These are, of course, somewhat expensive.

Some dogs need coaxing to use the door. Prop the door open and offer
a treat from the other side. Don't try and push your dog through.

C. Pet Insurance.

Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.

Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim. In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.

D. Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.

1. Pet Sitting

In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone. If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them. When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service. Watch out for the business changing hands.

Check with the National Association of Pet Sitters. Members must sign
a code of ethics and can be removed if there are complaints. They can
give you a list of pet sitters in your area. Their address is 632
Holly Ave, Winston Salem, NC 27101 and phone (919) 723-PETS. Their
brochure includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to
look for in a reputable pet sitter; included in list below.

Ask the company if they're bonded or insured. See if they'll send
someone more than once a day. Ask for references from previous and
current customers. Some will bring the paper and mail in and help
make the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.

Check the potential sitter for the following:

1. Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
and stating fees?
2. Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3. Does the sitter arrive on time?
4. Does the sitter get along with your pet? Does the sitter exhibit
confidence and ease with your pets?
5. Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6. Does the sitter have written references?
7. Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
clients for references?
8. Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9. Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
services?
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet-sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet-sitting service telephone to determine
if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
feedback and evaluation of pet-sitting services?
18. Does the pet-sitting service have an established system for
handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid? Before or after you come back?
A deposit up front and the rest later?

Try to find word of mouth recommendations. You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.

2. Kennels

Look around for a good one. Experiences can be good or awful
depending on the kennel.

One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs. You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel. If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information. One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.

An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature. The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.

4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A

Colorado Springs, CO 80915
719-591-1113

E. Photographing Black Dogs

Information compiled by Ruth Ginzberg, lightly edited by moi.

Many people with black dogs have trouble getting a good photo of the
dog. Some of the characterizations of how the photos turn out: "large
black blob", "no, large black blob with pink tongue sticking out of
it", "large black blob with eyes" (you get the idea).

If you want a few QUICK HINTS on how to address this problem, here
they are, as summarized well by Dennis Swanson:

* 1) set the camera to underexpose by two stops from what it recommends, if
possible

* 2) whether this is possible or not, tell the photofinisher to forget the
background and print your dog black but with detail in the fur

* 3) for photos to be scrutinized by possible clients, have them done by a
professional

If you want more detailed information, keep reading. :-)

Andy Kane has some advice about selecting a photo finisher:

* With 10 years of experience there is one answer to your question
about black dogs being too dark and magenta(pink). Take your
negatives to a local film processor, one that prints in lab, and
wait for the results. If you get the same result ask them to
please reprint your negative at -1 magenta and -2 denisty from
where they have it right now. I do this work for a living. What
normally happens is with the new scanners in print processors the
total area of the negative is scanned and averaged for color and
denisty. Therefore a black dog will print a little dark and if the
background is grass (green) the the scanner will tend to over
compensate and give you an dog with a little magenta tink(pink).
The same holds true for the other problem print of a portrait of a
person wearing a red shirt, in this case the flesh tones result a
little cyan (blue,geen) the opposite of the red shirt. I see this
black dog case everyday and I hope that I correct for it everytime
but even good processors can miss and will be more than happy to
redo your print at no charge to you. You can not get this kind of
service from drug store or mail service processing labs. Good luck

Ty Monson sympathizes with our difficulties, noting that photographing
black animals is not a problem only for we amateurs:

* Seriously, photographing black dogs, cats, cattle, llamas, etc.
*is* difficult. The difficulty is compounded by shooting color
negatives and relying on Qualex (or other popularly-priced photo
finisher) to produce the prints.[see above for advice] Assuming
that a person is taking snapshots for the family album, I can
recommend setting your pet against a dark background as a starting
point. When the main subject and background are *both* dark, the
printer will lighten the print.

You will get more detailed features on the dog in the photo this way,
but your dog will look lighter colored than s/he actually is. Jimmy
Tung explained why this happens:

* First assuming that you're using negative film, and just some
basics for everybody: The camera doesn't see a black dog. It sees
an average object which must be kinda average grey (18% if you
like) in color. So the meter will tell you something which will
overexpose the pic, giving you a grey dog, as well as washing out
the background. In the original post, the dogs were described as
big black blobs with pink tongues, etc. If the photofinisher
looks at the negative described above, he'll say "gee, these
people would rather have a good looking background", so they start
tweaking the density and color balance until you end up with all
of the other colors OK, and a black dog, except now your black dog
is too black, and it looks featureless.

Marc Clarke expanded on this, explaining that:

* The problem probably comes from the fact that Through The Lense
(TTL) camera meters try to render whatever reflective surface they
are pointed at as an 18% gray. If you point a TTL camera's meter
at a white house (or dog), the meter will indicate the amount of
exposure you need to make the side of the white house appear as
18% gray. If you point the TTL camera's meter at a black dog, the
meter will indicate the exposure you need to make the black dog
appear as an 18% gray dog. TTL meters are really good at telling
you what exposure to use for 18% gray things. TTL meters are
lousy at directly telling you what exposure to use for black or
white things.

Ty suggests some ways you can try to get around this problem:

* Oh, but you DID want the dog to look BLACK? Black is the
(relative) absence of light. The trick is to get enough gloss
(luster, glare) off the animal's fur to define shape, without
washing-out the blackness. Two things a snapshooter can do is
photograph your pet 1/4 side lighted from a window (overcast day)
or set a piece of white poster board next to the animal (out of
the camera's field of view.) A white wall may work, too. ... Be
inventive. Look! The camera lens sees what your eye sees. If the
lighting doesn't model your pet's form, the film won't record it.

* Oh, yes. Your black-petted friends will probably need to abandon
the camera's built-in flash. A flash with a head that can be
rotated for bounce flash can be made to work. It will take some
experimenting, though.

...and Tom Wagner added:

* If you are taking flash photos, that is another problem for
automatics. My personal advice is do not take flash photos of
pets. Use a high speed film and whatever available light you
have. Because pets have better night vision you will get a lot of
"Red Eyed Shots."

Jimmy also mentions the importance of lighting:

* Check your lighting, and make sure that details of the dog's coat,
eyes, etc. are large and visible. That is, assuming you don't
have off-camera flash equipment, position lamps and camera so that
light is reflected off the glossy coat. That way, the dog doesn't
look flat without the other visual cues our mind supplies, but the
camera doesn't.

Ellen McSorley's husband, Jonathan, who has experience photographing
dogs, evidently with better equipment than many of us have, notes that
even different *breeds* of black dogs offer different problems:

* ... Labs have glossier fur than Newfs. You've still got to have
lots of light, so flash or spot metering is a must. I think
ideally I'd go for off-axis flash, or a diffuser, or maybe a flash
umbrella, something to give lots of light but not from a bright
point source which is going to reflect straight back into the
camera. That might make it look like the dog has Mylar
(reflective plastic) bits in its coat (although that would be an
interesting effect, and direct flash works on the Newfs because
their coats aren't so glossy).

Jimmy also mentions that:

* Some films are specifically color balanced for skin tones or
bright colors or deep rich blacks and browns. I don't have a
recommendation off the top of my head which would be appropriate.
You might find that Fuji Reala might be well suited, but then
again, Kodak Gold II might be just as good at a fraction of the
cost. Ask your local photo supply store.

and Stephen Samuel reminds us that:

* ... if you have a black dog and a white human in a picture with
the same lighting, AT LEST ONE OF THEM is going to end up looking
poorly lit. Creative lighting is required. [A classic suggestion
is to put the human in the shade and the dog in the sun.]

BUT, no matter what you do with the lighting or the processing, it
seems from what many people say that eventually you are going to have
to deal with the fact that the automatic grey scale metering is thrown
off by a black (or white) dog who makes up the largest part of the
photo.

Tom Davis (who says his dogs are Golden, to match his carpet) offers a
suggestion for those with very automatic cameras:

* I'd guess that if a black dog fills a significant amount of the
frame, it will wind up over-exposed by quite a bit, so if your
camera has exposure compensation, you can set it to under-expose
to compensate. Some cameras are totally automatic, so you're just
out of luck. If you don't have exposure compensation, you can
sometimes lie to the camera about the film speed. To make it
under-expose, tell it you've got faster film.

* For samoyeds and great pyrenees, do the opposite. Well, at least for
clean ones.

But for those ready to grapple with light metering, Marc Clarke suggests:

* There are several different ways to get around this. First, meter
something that is actually 18% gray in the same light that falls
on the black dog. This gray card gives your meter something that
actually *is* 18% gray. The black dog will show up as black (not
gray). These gray cards are available in any photography store,
usually in the book rack. Second, use an incident light meter.
These meters read the light that is falling onto the subject
rather than the light reflecting off the subject. They indicate
the same exposure as a TTL camera's reflectance meter reading the
light reflected off an 18% gray card. You can fake a gray card by
using your TTL cameras meter and metering the light falling onto
your open hand, then opening up one more stop. A hand (in fact,
nearly all Caucasian skin) is about 1 stop brighter than an 18%
gray card.

But Brian Segal points out that:

* Your reflective meter will indeed want to show the dog as 18% grey if
you simply rely on that reading. If you want about 5 stops of exposure
latitude, then meter the dog's fur and stop down 1.5 to 2.0 stops. If
you stop right down to dense black there will be no detail of the fur.

* An incident reading will work more or less, but you really want a
precise reading of the fur itself as it has its own reflective
properties.

Dave Miller kind of summed it all up with:

* UNDEREXPOSE BY TWO STOPS. That's it. Doesn't matter what camera
you use. All a camera is is a light tight box to hold film.
[...]
The meters (for the most part) all work the same way and try to
give you an 18% grey which is about 2 stops brighter than most
black dogs. If the dog is brightly lit, then it might be only 1
to 1.5 stops darker...

Well, there you have it.

Finally, Ty Monson gives the following (blunt, but probably correct)
advice in response to a question about stud services or breeders who
are photographing their dogs for the benefit of prospective clients:

* Breeders ought to have a skilled photographer produce the photos
for showing prospective clients. No business is represented well
with amateurish snapshots.

Many thanks to the nice folks from rec.photo who offered their expertise
to us sentimental dog lovers, who never can seem to have too many photos
of our pets -- even when they do just look like large black blobs with
tongues!

F. Record Keeping.

1. Breeders

You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight.
Breeders MUST keep official records on their dogs. There are numerous
fines listed in the back of the _Gazette_ for failure to maintain
proper records. If you don't have your own record book, you should
start one. If you are cited, you may have to start all over again
with new dogs. That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC
registrations. The AKC screws up a lot of things. That's why it is
so important that breeders keep good files for their own breed club's
use.

Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added. The breeder's
name(s) is also included. On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.

When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places. (You can order these
books from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding
Record" books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for
many dogs.)

2. Titles

For titles and points, keep a small *bound* notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way. You may want to have a folder
in which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog. You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up. Two records are better than one!

3. Working dogs

Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases. Note date and time, individuals
involved in the training, the purpose of the training, how the
training session was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to
improve. For an actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you
talked to, where you got the scent article or other applicable
information from, who was found/rescued/attacked, etc. If you can, go
back and take pictures of the trail followed or other useful sites.
Keep training and actual case records separate.

If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not. In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.

4. Your personal enjoyment

Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training. In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.

G. Removing Odors and Stains.

1. Urine

For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
Shot is one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
about ten minutes and blot it up.

If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.

To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that
has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light).
Urine fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware
stores. There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater
to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV
source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the
shortwave lamp used for tanning.

1. Enzymatic products

Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number);
Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright! (carpet); Resolve
(carpet, perhaps other items); Odor Mute (originally for deskunking
dogs, has other applications, leaves white residue, works on
concrete). Odor Abolish, by Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful.
These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in
urine and feces, and are quite effective.

When using enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted
enzymes, let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and
*keep the area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions,
including enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures.
Unfortunately, most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F
(38-39C)-- so not TOO hot. Try covering the area with towels soaked
in plain water after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or
other plastic over that to make sure the area stays moist.

The enzymes in laundry products are the same as those in the expensive
odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work
just as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery
laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have
to SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from drying out. The
smelly area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours or more.

2. Launderable items

On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.

3. Concrete

If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been
soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very
porous. You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the
concrete properly. A specialty cleaning service is probably the best
way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and
other cleaners may help, but only temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed
to work on concrete. Improving the ventilation may also help. In
extreme cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the
original concrete will solve the problem.

4. Hardwood floors

Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to
clean. First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's
Miracle to remove the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at
your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees
on what is available. You will need to remove any varnish or
polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain
it, and then apply the protective coat. There are also professional
companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you may have to
replace the wood.

5. Yard

For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine.
This is found in Jerry Baker's _Plants are Still Like People_.

2. Skunks

The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around. Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.

To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water. Douches
work (they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs'
skin. Massengill in particular is often highly recommended. Soap the
skunked areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a little while, and
then soap again. Don't get the vinegar in the dog's eyes. Try also:
diluted lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn is generally
recommended) to cut the grease.

There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.

If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.

3. Saliva

The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.

The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed. Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem. For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.

H. Separation Anxiety.

Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave. Most get over it in time.
You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
give him a treat, and walk out. You can probably condition your dog
to accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.

Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
crate-trained, of course). A crate can help your dog feel more secure
in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.

I. Travel and International Travel.

You can often take your dog with you when you travel. There are some
helpful books out there that list which hotels, motels, etc. accept
dogs. These include

_Touring with Towser_, Quaker foods, publisher. Editions put out
every other year. Write to 585 Hawthorne Court, Galesburg IL 61401
with a check or money order for $3 made out to Quaker Professional
Services. 64 page directory.

_Pets Allowed_. A directory of places to stay nation (USA) wide. $10
from Modern Systems Computing, 9 Greenmeadow Dr. #FD, N. Billerica, MA
01862-1921.

_Take Your Pet USA: A Guide of Accommodations for Pets and Their
Owners_. Artco Publishing, 1990, 446 pages, ISBN 0-9626885-0-9,
$9.95. It lists the address, phone number, any pet restrictions, if
there's an exercise area for pets, if pet can be left unattended in
room, local attractions, lodging rates and a few local vet offices.

By the way: BE SURE TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG! Especially when
travelling -- many hotels begin to refuse dogs after continually
finding dog feces all over their lawns, etc afterwards. Get a
pooper-scooper or a plain plastic bag and clean up after your pooch!
Those following you afterwards will thank you.

1. Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car. Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness. Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours. Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option. There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars). There are
restraining leashes available. Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident. There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds. Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of. Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it. While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear. If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive. It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior. If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2. Plane

The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs. Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc. The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin. Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed. This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin. A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals. They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals. Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes. A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area. Other airlines have varying reputations. In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet." It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue. Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel). The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.

3. International Travel.

1. Paperwork

Most states/provinces/regions require a health certificate and proof
of rabies vaccination for pets crossing boundary lines. Most airlines
will require this regardless of where you go within the country. Any
dog that is travelling somewhere else should have a copy of its
medical history, especially its vaccinations with it.

2. Quarantines

Islands almost always have quarantines: Britain has a 6 month
quarantine for all pets. Hawaii has a 4 month quarantine, except for
pets from Britain and a few other rabies-free countries [Australia?].

In North America: Canada has a 4 month quarantine, except
from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is sufficient.

In South America: No quarantines, but the animal must be up-to-date on
vaccinations.

Europe: Sweden has a four month quarantine; Finland has a quarantine
of 3 [?] months. Most European countries do not have a quarantine or
only require proof of vaccinations.

Australia: Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not
from other pacific islands). Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter
after a 2 month quarantine. All other animals must do six months of
quarantine in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in
Australia.

4. Shipping

You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons. Most
people simply ship them as cargo on an airline. This works best when
the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
risk of too high or too low temperatures. There is at least one
company that ships dogs. This is

Pet Transfer
(world wide door to door pet moving service)
714-660-9390 (USA)
[There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]

J. Vicious Dogs.

It is an interesting fact about American pit bulls that up until World
War II Pit Bulls were looked upon with favor and patriotism. There is
World War I propaganda portraying the Pit Bull as manifesting American
Virtues. In a poster with other dogs representing their country of
origin, the pit bull in a bunting collar was subscribed "Independent,
but not afraid of any of them..." In addition, at about the same
time, Collies were considered unreliable dogs that would attack people
without provocation. Thus, it is easy to see that hysteria about a
particular breed is just that, hysteria.

In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
was vicious because it was *impure* (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
genes, whatever they are...).

What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.

Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
vicious. People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
aggressive and vicious. The result is a badly-trained dog that has
been taught to fear people. In addition, other people start breeding
these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues. But it is
important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices. Thus, penalties
should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
temperament, rather than on an entire breed.

References:

Hearn, Vicki. _Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog_.

K. Waste Composting.

Are there sanitary and effective alternatives to shoveling feces from
your backyard into your trashcan? Especially if you have multiple dogs?

There are a number of products on the market, such as the "Doggy Dooly",
"'Liminate", etc. Reported experiences vary widely. Some were satisfied,
others could not get them to work.

The basic premise is to set up a "composting pile" that, with added
enzymes, will decompose into odorless liquid and gas wastes. Some
are elaborate affairs that require you to dig a large pit lined with
gravel and bury a container (with the lid at ground level) over the
gravel that drains the decomposed and harmless waste into the soil
below. Others are simplar plastic bucket affairs.

Pros:
* Feces don't sit in the garbage all week.
* Don't need extra bags in cleaning stools up.

Cons:
* Composters rarely work in winters with below or near freezing
temperatures.
* Despite claims of "odorless waste products", the feces in there
can smell quite badly until fully decomposed.
* Rocks and sticks can interfere with digestion.
* Usually the amount of enzyme to add is fussy: it won't work well
with *either* too much or too little added.

L. Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves. There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.

1. Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry. Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Resources and References:

Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology. Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore. Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered. There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well. Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them. Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
a bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission. They
will provide information about hybrids to those that ask.

Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920. Phone: (317) 567-2265.

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_. University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.

308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
Description of wolves and their relationship with humans. Not

really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

Crisler, Lois. _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.

Mowat, Farley. _Never Cry Wolf_. Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN

2. Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
FAQ author's note: I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you
get a wolf-hybrid. It is my personal recommendation that you not get
one. What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented
here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now
and then on this group. I have attempted to make a fair presentation,
and have included resources for further information.
--Cindy Tittle Moore
**********************************************************************

Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do. Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into. Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them. There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs. **DO NOT EVEN
*CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
EDUCATION!**

What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.

Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal. As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf. A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics." Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.

In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.

Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man. The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be a survivor. Most suffer from a fear, or
at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game. Also, hybrids don't
always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.

Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior. Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable. Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not. A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it. Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
consistency in their breeding. Not only does the percentage of wolf
background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies. Also, since they are not
bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
*potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.

Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression. If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result. Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite. Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception. In addition, it will further
damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
harder, and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby. Most obedience clubs will
not even allow wolf hybrids in classes. Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one. Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline. The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid. Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD! You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore. Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang. Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick. Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc. In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).

In particular, there is NO vaccine that is approved for use on the
hybrids and that includes rabies. They *can* be vaccinated but if
they bite someone they are considered by law to be unvaccinated. This
means if they bite someone, they must be destroyed, with their head
sent to a laboratory to determine the presence of rabies or not.

Resources:

The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists. Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations. Subscription
rate is $22.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S. Published
bi-monthly. Address is: WHT, P.O. Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.

The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid. Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which includes a bi-monthly newsletter. Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035. Phone: (615) 746-3442.

Donald H. Ashford, Treasurer Collen Schabacker
National Wolf Hybrid Association 2375 Honeysuckle Lane
2926 Bent Creek Road, Hartsville, TN 37074
Russellville, TN 37860

The following was taken from the Instructions and Requirements of the
Registration Application.

NWHA accepted dog breeds are: Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute,
Samoyed, and accepted strains of German Shepherd. Breeds of Dogs with
an aggressive nature that would take away from the temperament of the
wolf are not allowed and will not be registered such as: (Pit Bull,
Doberman, Rottweilers, etc..). Breeds of dogs that take away the
appearance of the wolf are not allowed and will not be registered.

NWHA will register 25% and below precentage.

NWHA reserves the right to refuse to register any wolf hybrid that
does not meet the assocation's standards.

NWHA reserves the right to correct or revoke, for cause, any
registration certificate issued. Any misrepresentation and/or
violation of integrity on the application is grounds for revocation
and may result in the loss of any or all NWHA privileges.

The purpose of the registry is to bring the wolf/dog cross to
perfection by quality breeding for temperament, intelligence,
conformation and wolf-like appearance.

It is understood that all should work actively to eleminate the
promotion of poor breeding practices and operations.

[Michael George Buening]

Archive-name: dogs-faq/rescue/part2

Version: 1.52
Laste-modified: 16 June 1993

This is the Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 2/2. It will be posted on a

regular basis and/or you can obtain the file via anonymous ftp at rtfm.mit.edu

under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1. Or send email to
mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with

send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
in the body of the message leaving the subject line blank.

Greyhound - see also Italian Greyhound
Greyhound Club of America
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpenteria Avenue
Carpenteria, CA 93013
805-684-4914

|| Fort Myers Greyhound Adoption Center
|| Donna Forster
|| 11511 Deal Road N.
|| Fort Myers, FL 33905
|| 813-731-3187

|| Friends for Life
|| Susan Netboy
|| 5 Ranch Road
|| Woodside, CA 94062
|| 415-851-7812

|| Easthaven Animal Hospital
|| 2140 S. Huron Parkway
|| Ann Arbor, MI 48104
|| 313-971-3444

|| Greyhound Rescue, Inc.
|| Susan Greenwald
|| 118-B Jordan Court, N.E.
|| Palm Bay, FL 32905
|| 407-951-2452
|| -and-
|| John Davis
|| 6397 Woodburn Rd.
|| Elk Ridge, MD 21227
|| 410-796-2803

|| Greyhounds as Pets
|| Bill Fullerton
|| P.O. Box 6999
|| Colorado Springs, CO 80934
|| 719-633-0171

|| Frank Sawada
|| 6441 Taylor Street
|| Niagra Falls, Ontario
|| Canada L2G2E9
|| 416-357-6550

|| Maryland Chapter of GPA
|| Betty Rosen
|| 11404 Lhasa Lane
|| Lutherville, MD 21093
|| 410-252-7555

|| Greyhound Racers Recycled
|| Jan Huey
|| Box 270107
|| Houston, TX 77277-0107
|| 713-665-3366

|| Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
|| LaDonna Rea
|| PO Box 461
|| Plainfield, IN 46168-461
|| 317-745-7772
|| -and-
|| Linn Murphy
|| PO Box 218205
|| Columbus, OH 43221-8205
|| 614-777-4160
|| -and-
|| Beverly Thompson
|| 116 Mary Street
|| Washington, IL 61571
|| 309-745-5377

|| Greyhound Rescue League
|| Paula Johnson
|| 106 Cayman Lane
|| Summerland Keys, FL 33042
|| 305-872-2749
|| -and-
|| Cinda Crawford
|| PO Box 13314
|| Tallahassee, FL 32317
|| 904-878-1204

|| Make Peace with Animals, Inc.
|| Cynthia Branigan
|| PO Box 488
|| New Hope, PA 18938
|| 215-862-0605

|| Michigan Greyhound Connection
|| Susan Riegel
|| 797 River Bend Dr.
|| Rochester Hills, MI 48307
|| 313-652-6270

|| National Greyhound Adoption Program
|| David Wolfe
|| 8301 Torresdale Ave.
|| Philadelphia, PA 19136
|| 800-348-2517

|| National Greyhound Network
|| 415-851-7812
|| (will refer to the independent adoption group nearest you)

|| Northern California Sighthound Rescue
|| Sandra Wornum
|| 570 Riviera Cir.
|| Larkspur, CA 94939
|| 415-924-7020

|| Operation Greyhound
|| Bruna Palmatier
|| 8876 Shaula Way
|| San Diego, CA 92126
|| 619-695-9488

|| Oregon Greyhound Rescue
|| Elizabeth Bordeaux
|| 2207 NE 79th Ave.
|| Portland, OR 97213
|| 503-257-7220

|| Retired Greyhounds as Pets (REGAP)
|| Ron Walsek
|| PO Box 41307
|| St. Petersburg, FL 33743
|| 813-347-2206
|| -and-
|| Eileen McCaughern
|| PO Box 76
|| Bethany, CT 06525
|| 203-467-7407
|| -and-
|| Sally Allen
|| 1306 Bunker Hill Road
|| Mooresville, IN 46158
|| 317-996-2154
|| -and-
|| Christine Makepeace
|| PO Box 1861
|| Seabrook, NH 03874
|| 603-474-8340
|| -and-
|| Dale Schnepf
|| All Pets Animal Clinic
|| 3257 W. 4th Street
|| Waterloo, IA 50701
|| 319-235-0842

|| Second Chance for Greyhounds
|| Helen Banks
|| 10826 Dean Street
|| Bonita Springs, FL 33923
|| 813-947-2365

|| Tampa Greyhound Adoption Center
|| Kim Wyler
|| 5629 E. Chelsea Street
|| Tampa, FL 33610
|| 813-626-1116

|| Claire Bertine
|| 1000 Reo St. John Drive
|| Jacksonville, FL 32211
|| 904-743-6627

|| Richard Benjamin
|| PO Box 397
|| Beach Island, SC 29842
|| 803-827-0918

|| Nina Bloom-Selling
|| 4335 E. Carol Ann Lane
|| Phoenix, Arizona 85032
|| 602-493-9144

|| Pat Lewallen
|| R.R. 4, Box 232W
|| Paola, KS 66071
|| 913-294-3023

|| Diane Lunthacum
|| Rt. 2, Box 185 C
|| Thomasville, GA 31742
|| 412-226-7632

|| Cathy McIntyre
|| 15 Pickering CT #01
|| Germantowne, MD 20874
|| 301-540-4980 (area code might now be 410)

|| Vickey Price
|| Columbia, SC
|| 803-256-6939 (work)
|| 803-782-0863 (home)

|| Candy Schultz
|| Greyhound Pet Connection
|| Woodstock, IL 60098
|| 815-477-4900 (work)
|| 815-568-8403 (home)

|| Catherine Settle
|| PO Box 2157
|| Sanford, NC 27330
|| 919-775-7945

|| Ellen Stokal
|| PO Box 7044
|| Villa Park, IL 60181
|| 708-495-0074

|| Cheryly Vincent
|| 3671 Woodhaven Circle
|| Hamburg, NY 14075
|| 716-648-8106

|| Linda Zent
|| 5779 Boxwood Drive
|| Boseman, MT 59715
|| 406-586-8705

Greyhound Racing Federation Of Canada
Linda M. Reidt
R.R. #1
Baltimore, ON K0K 1C0
(416) 342-3391
REM: retired racing greyhounds placement

Susan Nutboy (track rescue)
#5 Ranch Road
Woodside, CA 94062

Sue Riegle
313-652-6270

Greyhound Club of Northern California
Marjorie Leider
1091 Batavia Ave.
Livermore, CA 94550
415-447-4502

Jane Klorer
617-729-2577

Millie Merritt
617-472-4055

Susan Gallotti
508-667-1251

Greyhound Placement Service
603-474-5965
603-942-7789
508-462-7973

Greyhound Pets of America (GPA)
1-800-FON-1GPA (toll free, of course)
(366-1472)
National referral number. Call and leave a message on the
answering machine, and a member of a local GPA chapter will
contact you.

baylist: 415-851-7812

Greyhound Friends, Inc.
Louise Coleman, Director
167 Saddle Hill Road
Hopkinton, MA 01748
508-435-5969

Greyhound Life Line
Irene Milbury
228 E. Foxboro Street
Sharon, MA 02067
617-784-2157

National Greyhound Adoption Program
215-331-7918
1-800-348-2517

Husky -see Siberian Husky

Ibizan Hound
The Ibizan Hound Club of the United States
Rose Bednarski
2318 S. 15th Pl.
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414-634-9251

Robbie Vanderpool
6566 Ridgeview Circle
Dallas, TX 75240
214-385-2240

Karen Mele
615-653-4414
Tennessee

Manette Ward
818-881-4368
California

baylist: 916-487-9979

Irish Setter
Irish Terrier Club of Northern California
Diana Martin
189 San Luis Rd.
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-938-4698

Irish Terrier Club of Southern California
Nan Bruner
13431 Winthrope St.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-633-5156

Irish Setter Club of Central Conn.
Darlene Ferris
28 Point Beach Dr.
Milford, CT 06460
203-877-2431

Irish Setter Club of Ohio
Nonda Jones
7578 River Rd.
Olmsted Falls, OH 44138
216-235-4197

Eastern Irish Setter Association
Evelyn Kearon
RD 2, Box 293A
Branchville, NJ 07826
201-948-4921

Irish Setter Club of America Rescue
and Irish Setter Club of the Pacific
Marilee Larson
510-351-2966

Irish Setter Club of Michigan
Megen O'Rukenbrod
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
313-664-2548

Eastern Irish Setter Association, Inc.
Marge Lippman
201-962-4173
Fran Sloughfy
908-362-5464
Nancy Conner
413-367-2182
Anna Jones
908-464-5720

Irish Setter Club of Ontario
Mrs. Constance O'Brien
R.R. #4 2418 South River Road
Kemptville, ON K0G 1J0
(613) 258-7765

Beth Michaud & Bob Ritchie
603-424-5436
New Hampshire

baylist: 415-351-2966

Irish Terrier
Peggy Gill
508-369-3006

Mary O'Brien
510-521-3246
California

Irish Water Spaniel
Irish Water Spaniel Club of America
Carolyn Lathrop, chairperson
125 Polk Street
Cumberland, MD 21502
301-724-9162

Elizabeth B. Petterson
5130 Kerfing Place
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
919-922-3934

Norma Heiny
RR 9, Box 97
Bridgeton, NJ 08302
609-451-7480

Nona and Harlan Noel
1835 Lakeshore Drive
Michigan City, IN 46360
219-872-0775

Nancy Wiley
3150 Paradise Drive
Tiburon, CA 94920
415-461-7533
Florence Blecher
3310 Adina Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90068
213-874-0944

Irish Wolfhound
Sharon Yaskulski
219-534-2086

Irish Wolfhound Club of Puget Sound
Beverly Little
16252 Tiger Mountain Rd.
Issaquah, WA 98027
206-392-7241

Irish Wolfhound Rescue Trust
Pat Huntley
16513 Napa Street
Sepulveda, CA 91343
818-894-8988

Potomac Valley Irish Wolfhound Club
Herb Savage
Rte. 1, Box 711-D
Accokeek, MD 20607
301-283-4474

Irish Wolfhound Association of New England
Marcia Frankel
413-458-3269
Western Massachusetts

Irish Wolfhound Association of the Delaware Valley
Mrs. Frances Hall
Box 43, R.R. 1
Low's Hollow Rd.
Stewartsville, NJ 08886
201-859-3957

baylist: 818-894-8988

Italian Greyhound
Italian Greyhound Club of America
Leslie Parsons
925 Canton St. NW
Palm Bay, FL 32907
407-724-9170

June Mastrocola
W137 N9332 HY 145
Menomonee Falls, WI 53051
414-251-8347

Ray Filburn
508-927-7309

Cathie Wilt
207-594-8492
Maine

Jack Russel Terrier
Jennifer Carr
508-676-1061 (work)
401-737-1041 (home)

Japanese Chin(Spaniel)
Betty Dickey
517-792-6275

Malcolm Barr
703-354-0199
Virginia

Japanese Shiba Inu
Mary Malone
216-823-2388
Ohio

Keeshond
Keeshond Club of Greater Oklahoma City
Tommie Howard
4015 S. Dobbs
Harrah, OK 73045
405-271-3922
405-391-4738

Nor-Cal Keeshond Club, Inc.
430 Bay Rd.
Menlo Park, CA 94025
415-322-2246

Peak to Peak Keeshond Fanciers
Carol Schwenk
220 Cypress Circle
Broomfield, CO 80020
303-469-4181

Peak to Peak Keeshond Rescue
Sue Riegel
1878 Old Highway #52
Erie, CO 80516

Mary Ellen Grace
508-222-3300

baylist: 415-322-2246

Pacific Crest Keeshond Club
Pat Shuler
1520 NE 106th
Seattle, WA 98125
206-362-6727

Kerry Blue Terrier
Empire Kerry Blue Terrier Club Gwen Resk
645 Pine Brook Blvd.
New Rochelle, NY 10804
914-235-8555

Greater Boston Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Rhoda Bergman (N.E. Mass)
Off Cross Rd.
Lunenberg, MA 01462
508-342-5044
or Brian Lowney (S.E. Mass and R.I.)
1307 Gardners Neck Rd.
South Swansea, MA 02777
508-672-6086

United States Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Joanne K. Schlindler, chair
12056 Cedar Creek
Cincinnati, OH 45240
513-742-3745

King Charles Spaniel -see Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel

Komondor
Pat Randall
512-288-2091

Middle Atlantic States Komondor Club
Stewart L. Wells
102 North Church
Snow Hill, MD 21863
301-632-2180

Komondor Club of America
Komondor Rescue Committee
Pat Randall
10600 Little Thicket Dr.
Austin, TX 78736
512-288-2091

Joy Levy
609-924-0199
New Jersey

Ruth/Ken Todd
516-379-8286
New York

Kuvasz
Kuvasz Club of America,Inc.
Aino Andres
914-664-8104
New York

Mayling Koval
914-221-2066
New York

Labrador Retriever
Golden Gate Labrador Retriever Club
Paul and Anne Gamlin
762 Cedar St.
San Carlos, CA 94070
415-592-8394

Labrador Retriever Club of the Pioneer Valley
Lois Engel
55 Rural Road
Belchertown, MA 01007
413-323-4822
413-323-7672

Labrador Retriever Rescue Hotline
Central Connecticut

Labrador Retriever Club of Central Connecticut
Julie Starkweather
203-426-0770

Labrador Retriever Rescue of PA
Pam Heidorn
215-822-8589
Chalfont, PA
Mary Pat Meirs
215-953-0147
Feasterville, PA
Eileen Melair
215-343-7929
Warrington, PA
Pat Henning
215-489-0710 (after 7pm)
Collegeville, PA

Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston
Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc.
c/o Jill Silverman
504 Essex St.
South Hamilton, MA 01982
508-369-8736

Doris Aylward
603-642-8686
New Hampshire

Sue Willumsen
603-837-5719
New Hampshire

Sharon Phelts
517-651-2080

baylist: 415-592-8394 (Lizalee says this is Lorrie Bellows)
916-752-1393

Lakeland Terrier
United States Lakeland Terrier Club
Harold Tatro, III
804 Quail Run
Nassau Bay II
Granbury, TX 76048
817-326-5525

Lhasa Apso
San Diego County Lhasa Apso Club
Willima and Shirley Benedict
11202 Promesa Drive
San Diego, CA 92124
619-278-2484

Gino Blaisdell
508-583-8460

Lowchen
Gini Denninger
315-524-8022
New York

Malamute -see Alaskan Malamute
Maltese
Evergreen Maltese Club
Berverly Passe
6015 Rosedale St. NW
Gig Harbor, WA 98335
206-858-9266

Kim Catizone
603-883-8240
New Hampshire

baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117

Manchester Terriers
Evergreen Empire Manchester Terrier Fanciers
Mauriel Hankel
4961 NE 193rd St.
Seattle, WA 98155
206-365-0445

Mastiff -see also Neapolitan Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Mastiff Club of America Rescue Service
Phyllis Miller
P.O. Box 1670
La Jolla, CA 92037
619-454-8984
Jim Hoobin
508-399-7315

Lucinda
414-822-8785

Mastiff Club of America
Mary-Louise Owens
RD 1, Box 627
Phelps Street
Gloversville, NY 12078
518-661-6493

Miniature Pinscher
Canadian Miniature Pinscher Club
Edris Matulock
6611 - 8th Ave.
Regina, SK S4T 7H3
(306) 949-6593

Namcy Johnson
703-297-7200

Joyce Sproule
508-378-9061

Miniature Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-Miniature

Neapolitan Mastiff -see also Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Carol Paulsen
315-389-4028
New York

Newfoundland
Linda Stierle
313-335-3871

Newfoundland Club of America
Mary L. Price
1004 Hwy. 78 South
Mt. Horeb, WI 53572
609-437-4553

Newfoundland Dog Club of the Twin Cities
Nancy Robinson
8338 12th Ave. S.
Bloomington, MN 55420
612-854-6943
or Lory Cosgrove
410 Lakorta Lane
Chanhassen, MN 55318
612-496-3628

Newfoundland Club of New England
Ellen Katz
617-329-8157

baylist: 415-364-7637

Norfolk Terrier and Norwich Terrier
Norwich and Norfolk Terriers
Martha Seaman
313-647-1603

Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club
Mrs. Lee Donaldson
121 Carolina Forest
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
919-929-3105

Mrs. Joseph Mattison
617-326-0950

Norwegian Elkhound
Norwegian Elkhound Club of Potomac Valley
Geri King
3028 Hewitt Ave., #238
Silver Spring, MD 20906
301-871-5487

Barbara Plant
508-636-5548
(referrals only)

Marion Szymanski
508-747-2728

baylist: 415-591-8056

Old English Sheepdog
Chicagoland Old English Sheepdog Club
Grace Fujikawa
381 Fairview Ave.
Winnetka, IL 60093
312-446-7381

Heather
313-338-8828

Greater Pittsburg Old English Sheedog Club
Chris Gaburri
457 Orchard Ave.
Pittsburg, PA 15202
412-761-0493

Greater Portland Old English Sheepdog Club
Nancy Miller
1850 SW Filmont
Portland, OR 97225
503-646-6187

New England Old English Sheepdog Club
Annie Raker
Stonehendge
Lincoln, MA 01773
617-259-8173

Old English Sheepdog Fanciers of Central Arizona
Cheryl Kulzer
2112 N. Pennington Dr.
Chandler, AZ 85244
602-821-5727

Old English Sheepdog League of Northern California
Pam Henry
2491 Darla Dr.
Santa Rosa, CA 95401
707-579-1848

|| Madeline Ericson
|| 716-293-2967
|| NY (Buffalo area)

Twin Colonies Old English Sheepdog Club of Norther NewJersey
Shelia Kenyon
4 Log Rd.
Morristown, NJ 07960
201-538-4129

Otter Hound
Otterhound Club of America
Betsy Conway Rd1, Box 134A
Yorktown Heights, NY 10598

Ellen Katz
617-329-8157

Russell Von der Linden
603-298-8432
New Hampshire

baylist: 415-851-4248

Papillon
Metropolitan Area Papillion Club of Washinton, DC
Margaret Quarts
3650 Mill Creek Dr.
Haymarket, VA 22069
703-754-2557

Papillon Club of America
Diana Fuchs
Rt. 7, Box 5310
Quincy, FL 32351
904-875-1422

Patriot Papillon Rescue Committee
508-339-5620
508-597-5382
508-948-2278

Jackie & Ray Potocki
508-462-7607 home
508-462-6534 work

Jan Burger
508-948-2275

PBGV -see Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen

Pekingese
|| Hope Burghardt
|| 607-547-5207 (Cooperstown, NY)
|| 703-456-8395 (Virginia)
|| * Hope may also be contacted for assistance with Toy
|| Poodles, Japanese Chins, Boston Pugs, Pomeranians, and
|| most Toy breeds.

Allison Chase
603-672-6049
New Hampshire

Pembroke Welsh Corgi -see Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
Jennifer King
908-462-0340
New Jersey

Barbara Wicklund
908-281-6532 home
609-396-2904 work
New Jersey

Pharoah Hound
Rita Sacks
914-687-9200

Ellen DeWolf
508-867-7437

baylist: 916-687-6696

Pointer
Erica Bandes
203-266-7883
Connecticut

Poodle
Greater Pittsburg Poodle Club
Mary Lou Patrick
RD 1, Box 195
Clinton, PA 15026

Poodle Club of Southeast Michigan
Nancy Nastasi
41940 Quince Dr.
Novi, MI 48050
313-344-0181

Poodle Club of Tulsa
Mary Yeakey
2506 S. Cincinnati
Tulsa, OK 74114
918-582-0301

Sherry Wargo
517-795-2663

Poodle Rescue Program Poodle Club of Central California
Patricia Moulthrop, chair
815 Las Trampas Road
Lafayette, CA 94549
voice mail: 510-295-1070

Esther-Mary Farrington
617-491-0210

|| Fraya Katz
|| 603-465-2774
|| Hollis,NH

baylist: Betty Janz (standard poodle)
15870 Turquise Pl.
Grass Valley, CA 95945

Portuguese Water Dog
Jane Harding
20 Driftway Lane
Darien, CT 06820
203-655-7258

Pug
Bluebonnet Pug Dog Club
Margaret Dunning
1107 Derbyshire Lane
Carrollton, TX 75007
214-242-6175

Central Indiana Pug Club
Donald Foral
3502 E. 39th St.
Indianapolis, IN 46205
317-546-7815

City of Angels Pug Club
Blanche Roberts
22963 Hatteras
Woodland Hills, CA 91367
818-703-5026

Columbine Pug Club of Denver, Colorado
Quaylene Frazier
12478 W. Bowler Dr.
Littleton, CO 80127
303-972-2558

Great Lakes Pug Club
Geraldine Woodrick
10839 S. Nagle Ave.
Worth, IL 60482
312-448-7819

Greater Atlanta Pug Dog Club
Teri Smith
Rt. 1, Box 76-3 Weems Rd.
Molena, GA 30258
404-648-6710
404-647-6622

Greater Milwaukee Pug Club
Barbara Nook
6820 N. Trenton Rd.
West Bend, WI 53095
414-338-6860

Mid Michigan Pug Club
Terry Smith
221 E. Scott St.
Grand Ledge, MI 48837
517-627-5916

Missouri Valley Pug Fanciers
Barbara Hull
Rt. 1, Box 31
Denton, NE 68339
402-475-6841
402-474-5331

Pug Club of South Florida
Pat Antle
208 Farmington Dr.
Plantation, FL 33317
305-587-0556

Pug Dog Club of Greater Cincinnati
Maryl Hodapp
1080 Hine Rd.
Hamilton, OH 45013
513-892-0014

Pug Dog Club of Greater New York
Ceilia Geary
50 Greenwich Ave., Apt. 5C
New York, NY 10011
212-929-6606
or Shirley Thomas
43-64 Bowne St.
Flushing, NY 11355
718-762-7508

Pug Dog Club of Greater San Antonio
Marilynn Ellis 4207 N. Halsey
Victoria, TX 77901
512-573-2556

Pug Club of Maryland
Billie Hitt
14249 Briarwood Terrace
Rockville, MD 20853
301-871-8063

Pug Dog Club of Northern California
Barry Clothier
3339 Irving St.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-566-6009

Pug Rescue of New England
Doris Aldrich
17 Jones Rd.
Pelham, MA 01002
413-253-3066
or Fran Stuart
31 Pine St.
Peterborough, NH 03458
603-924-6026

Puget Sound Pug Dog Club
Carolyn McDuffie
832 SW 142nd St.
Seattle, WA 98166
206-241-0658

Tampa Bay Pug Club
Elizabeth Page
3965 Richy Rd.
Mims, FL 32754
407-269-0555

Betty Dickey
517-792-6275

Yankee Pug Dog Club
Debora Chamberland
183 Cedar St.
****can't tell the address*****

Dot Kelly
617-837-5719

baylist: 415-592-0732 or 408-252-0598

Puli
Puli Club of America
Betty Ostermeier
303-364-2836
Colorado

Rat Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093

Rhodesian Ridgeback
Orange Coast Rhodesian Rigdeback Club
Barbara Rupert
19071 Equestrian Lane
Orange, CA 92660
714-532-5559

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States
Natalie Carlton
5630 N. Abington Rd.
Tucson, AZ 85743
602-743-7570

Trinity Valley Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Texas
Sandra Morehart (East of I-135)
6122 Blackberry Lane
Dallas, TX 75248
214-387-1059
or Bobbie Gould (West of I-135)
5927 Inks Lake Dr.
Arlington, TX 76018
817-468-7300

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the U.S. Rescue/Adoption
Ulla-Britt Ekengren
508-649-7020

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Eastern Canada
Jo Dunn, President
R.R. #3
Walkerton, ON N0G 2V0
(519) 881-0886

Mary MacKinnon
802-644-5388
Vermont

Ross Zoll & Natalie Bandeian
203-389-8676
Connecticut

Rottweiller
Jennifer Beban
313-749-5370

Aloha State Rottweiler Club
Claire Inouye
608 Hunapaa St.
Honolulu, HI 96816
808-734-0401

Rottweiler Club of Maine Rescue League(Maine only)
Jonathan Petry
207-549-5541
Augusta Maine

Debra Cone & Larry Hamilton
207-457-2074

Bonnie Buckley(also other breeds and mixed breeds)
508-346-9068

Karen Billings
617-449-2452(eastern Mass. only)

The following are all in Florida:
In Jacksonville area:
Ray Gunderson 904-778-8524
Pat Stout 904-268-0207
Patricia Gilliard 904-384-5857
Marja McGinnis 904-262-4103 Home weekdays

In West Palm Beach Area:
Jackie Humphries 407-684-1112
Pat Swindle 407-471-5756
Carla Hopper 305-435-3985
Chip Dore 407-798-5153

In Havana, FL area:
Bonnie & Al Wimberly 904-539-9663

Alicia DeCelle
601-832-8450
In MS

baylist: 818-765-5997

Saint Bernard
Greater Milwaukee St. Bernard Club
Jan Much
924 E. Michigan
Oak Creek, WI 53154
414-764-0262

North Texas St. Bernard Club
Kathy Bishop
c/o 1423 Hampton Rd.
Grapevine, TX 76051
214-727-3537

Northern Colorado St. Bernard Club
Patty Neumayer
913 S. Rifle St.
Aurora, CO 80017
303-695-1349

St. Bernard Club of Puget Sound
Carole Dvorak
P.O. Box 343 Maple Valley, WA 98038
206-432-0506

Southern Maryland St. Bernard Fanciers
Cathy Babins
D'Aosta Kennels, Rte. 1
Box 123A
Waldorf, MD 20601
301-843-6406
or Dawn Camp
301-934-3785

St. Bernard Club of the Pacific Coast
Penny Mahon
15244 Arnold Dr.
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-996-4319

Judy Sage
313-682-9628

New England St. Bernard Club
Janice Myers
508-697-7790

Cindy Stark
508-852-2483

Liz Gaudet
203-746-4603
Connecticut

Saluki
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389

San Angeles Saluki Club
Len Lundgren
P.O. Box 44517
Sylmar, CA 44157
818-369-9033

Celeste Johnson Frasher
203-322-6370
Connecticut

Lorraine Tremholm
508-385-9936

baylist: 415-924-7020

Samoyed

Northern California Samoyed Fanciers
Gail Spieker
San Francisco, CA
415-325-8115

Potomac Valley Samoyed Club
Jim Lamott
14908 Chestnut Ridge Ct.
Gaithersburg, MD 20878
301-340-9804

baylist: Wilna Coulter
211 Lynton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070

Samoyed Club of Washington
Sandra Goodspeed
11718 - 193rd Ave E
Sumner, WA 98380

Shar Pei -see Chinese Shar Pei

Schipperke
Lone Star Schipperke Club
Beverly Henry
2025 Sam Houston Cr.
Carrollton, TX 75006
214-416-1504

Colonial Schipperke Club
Mary Nielsen
700 Forest Park Rd.
Great Falls, VA 22066
703-759-3820

Marie Hills
508-476-2478

Schnauzer-Giant
Jody K'Burg
609-935-5694
New Jersey

Doris Redmann
815-678-3311

baylist: 415-262-0597

Schnauzer-Miniature
Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Jonnie Hart
3085 SW 107th Avenue
Portland, OR 97225
503-292-6510

Hannah Whitman
503-244-0145

Rick Vaughn
513-423-7960

Miniature Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Milly Robertson
172 Kelton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070
415-591-9918

Miniature Schnauzer Club of Southern California
Peggie Blakley
9761 11th St.
Garden Grove, CA 92644
714-531-7473
Ruth Ziegler
1018 Montego Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90049
213-472-7993
Mt. Vernon Miniature Schnauzer Club
Carol Patterson
800 N. York Rd.
Sterling, VA 22170
703-450-4287

Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Club
Cathy Stone
9 Forest Dr.
Auburn, MA 01501
508-754-8559

Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Janet Loreck
508-668-2197

baylist: 415-591-9918

Schnauzer-Standard
Potomac Valley Standard Schnauzer
Mrs. Jerry Spellman
2722 Berryland Dr.
Oakton, VA 22124
703-620-5937

Standard Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Mary Lou Just
3758 Hatchers Circle
Stockton, CA 95209
209-473-0323 or Ernest Roche
655 Barneson Ave.
San Mateo, CA 94402

Mary Richards
213-454-2369

Scottish Deerhound
Scottish Deerhound Club of America
Deborah Day Hughes
517-769-2444
Michigan

Elin Phinizy
603-835-6074
New Hampshire

Scottish Terrier
San Francisco Bay Scottish Terrier Club
Peggy Burge
2593 Mt. Pleasant Rd.
San Jose, CA 95122
408-238-2327

Scottish Terrier Club of America
Mrs. Jackie Seelbach
17 Pine Tree Rd.
Ramsey, NJ 07446
Caryl Alten & Dennis Milewski
4601 Woodward Ave
Donwners Grove, IL 60515
708-963-1374

Scottish Terrier Club of California
Sally McElvain
1649 Ninth St.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
213-374-1588

Scottish Terrier Club of Greater Atlanta
Greg Bobbs
831 Derrydown Way
Decatur, GA 30030
404-373-9526

Scottish Terrier Club of Greater New York
William Berry
3 Sagamore Rd.
Parsippany, NJ 07054 201-227-1871

Scottish Terrier Club of Michigan
Paul DeBene
5757 Belle River Rd.
Imlay City, MI 48444
313-724-0161

Bill Mark
313-659-6450

Barbara Albright
603-887-4762
New Hampshire

baylist: Deborah Knous
3090 Los Prados
San Mateo, CA 94403

Sealyham Terrier
Pat Miller
217-877-0245

American Sealyham Terrier Club
M. Thelma Miller
c/o Lindley Rd.
RD #1, Box 90
Canonsburg, PA 15317
217-877-0245

Patsy Wood
215-935-1776
Pennsylvania

Daryl Pakkala
919-347-4772
California

Shepherd -see German Shepherd Dog

Shetland Sheepdog
Diane Bassett
No. Cal. Shetland Sheepdog Club
415-359-5181

Trish
313-522-4663

Colonial Shetland Sheepdog Club
Madelyn Cirinna
74 Maple St.
West Newberry, MA 01985
508-363-2978

Evergreen State Shetland Sheepdog Club
Lynn Erckmann
4761 162nd Ave., NE
Redmond, WA 98052
206-885-0701

Interlocking Shetland Sheepdog Club of Monee, Inc.
Jane Naden
417 Arlington
Crete, IL 60417
708-672-7258

Shetland Sheepdog Club of Austin
Vonnie Taylor
2206 Galway
Austin, TX 78758
512-834-2201

Sherry Lindsey
P.O. Box 241
Seguin, TX 78156
512-379-4510

Debbie De Nardo
203-526-4018
Connecticut

Shiba Inu -see Japanese Shiba Inu

Shih Tzu
Joyce Deval
313-383-1374

Bonnie Bean
508-544-8808

Siberian Husky
Ruth Henningsen
201-697-9456

Rosemary Laubach
908-431-1169

Michele Thie
517-546-0514

Siberian Husky Club of Hawaii
Cheryl Chang
47-685 Hui Alala St.
Kaneohe, HI 96744
808-239-6693

Susan Herlihy
617-593-7331
(referrals only)

Yankee Siberian Husky Rescue Service
Sheila Blanker
413-498-4455
Western Massachusetts

baylist: Andy Gach
1621 Christina Dr.
Las Altos, CA 94022

Silky Terrier
Richard Hammond Silky Terrier Rescue
Mrs. Lee Easton
18801 NE Willimason Road
Newberg, OR 97132
503-538-5112
Ivy Rogers
656 Santa Maria Road
El Sobrante, CA 94803
510-222-8240

Silky Terrier Club of America
Ms. I.D. Rogers
415-222-8240
California

Skye Terrier
Skye Terrier Club of Southern California
Dolly Stofer
2095 W. Acacia Rd.
Palm Springs, CA 92262
619-323-0632

Skye Terrier Club of America
John D. Bower
HC60 Box 75A
Granville, Mass. 01034
413-357-6104

Smooth Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier

Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier
Christan Peterson
313-642-5255

Delaware Valley Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club
Richard Tomlinson
4428 Province Line Rd.
Princeton, NJ 08540
609-924-1453

The Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Northern California
Sonya Urquhart
775 Wesley Drive
Vacaville, CA 95688
707-446-7494
Robyn Alexander
1819 Rose Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
415-526-7948

Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Metro, N.Y.
Sally and Ray Murtha
149 Berry Hill Rd.
Syosset, NY 11791
516-921-8741

baylist: 415-526-7048

Springer Spaniel -see English Springer, Welsh Springer

Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club
Linda Barker
1119 N. Naomi St.
Burbank, CA 91505
818-843-4861

Standard Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-standard

Tibetan Mastiff
Kathy Miller
301-932-1776

Toy Fox Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093

Vizsla
Connecticut Valley Vizsla Club
John Morris
2 Promontory Dr.
Cheshire, CT 06410

Tampa Bay Vizsla Club
Judy Heiser
3541 NW 14th Ave.
Pompano Beach, FL 33064
305-941-9392

Vizsla Club of Northern California
Jenni Woodside
28 Eastwood Dr.
Orinda, CA 94563
415-376-7865

Vizsla Club of Greater New York
Elaine Panebianco
33 Whistler Hill Lane
Huntington, NY 11743
516-266-1602

Vizsla Club of America
Rick Davis, chairperson
150 Stilla Har Drive
Westminster, SC 29693
803-647-5914

Sue Gray
508-877-5708
baylist: 415-566-9289

Weimaraner
Delaware Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Manser
2040 Kerr Rd.
Harleysville, PA 19438
215-584-0615

Greater Charleston Weimaraner Club
Linda Weick
103 Eagle Dr.
Summerville, SC 29483
803-873-3796

Weimaraner Club of America and the
Weimaraner Club of Greater St. Louis
Rebecca Weimer
324 Sundew Drive
Belleville, IL 62221
618-236-1466

Weimaraner Club of South Florida
Susan Warner
6630 West 13th Court
Hialeah, FL 33012

Western Washington Weimaraner Club
Debra Follensbee
3021 87th Ave., Ct. E.
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-845-2464

John and Chris McLaughlin
508-655-6188

Yankee Weimeraner Club
Kathleen Lallemand
10 Timberlee Land
Westford, MA 01886
508-692-2267
or
Ellen O'Leske
508-885-4255

Sacramento Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Dunn
13560 Skyline Blvd.
Oakland, CA 94619
415-635-3921

Sylvia Ashton
313-683-4776

Karen Mayo
313-475-2296

Welsh Corgi Cardigan
Cardigan Welsh Corgi Club of America Rescue
H. Pamela Allen, chairperson
406 E. Alexandria Avenue
Alexandria, VA 22301
703-836-1963

Joyce Sproule
508-378-9061
(referral only)

Welsh Corgi Pembroke
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
Ellen Childs
203-379-0668

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Florida
(central and north Florida)
Jean Bates
3707 Edgewater Drive
Orlando, FL 32804
407-298-1945

(west Florida)
Bonnie Hansen
10993 124th Avenue N
Largo, FL 34648
813-585-1221

(east Florida)
Deborah Shindle
3906 Indian River Drive
Vero Beach, FL 32963
407-231-0517

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Rescue League
Hilda W. Towery
91 Willard Drive
Marietta, GA 30066
404-428-8919

Deanna B. Kuhn, chair
33965 N. Fairfield Rd.
Round Lake, IL 60073
708-546-1739

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Potomac
Diane Gaskins
1113 Justa Lane
Cockeysville, MD 21030
301-252-8833

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Southern California, Inc.
Meredith Brittain
18393 Buckhorn Rd.
San Bernardino, CA 92407
714-887-5057

Terri Swaim
135 Tall Pine Lane
Ortonville, MI 48462
313-627-3723

Deb Beal
203-535-3913

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
Ellen Childs
203-379-0668
Connecticut

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Association of Canada
Ms. Susan O'Heir, National Secretary
25 Nottingham Dr.
Etobicoke, ON M9A 2W4
(416) 234-5431

Welsh Terrier

Welsh Terrier Club of America
Rob Savage
1624 Des Plaines
Chicago, IL 60616
312-421-1557

Welsh Terrier Cares Rescue Service
Ward Morris
485 Overbrook Drive, NW
Atlanta, GA 30318
404-351-1330

Bardi McLennan
203-227-3926
Connecticut

West Highland White Terrier
West Highland White Terrier Club of Greater Baltimore
Joe and Naomi Engers
807 Prospect Mill Rd.
Bel Air, MD 21014
301-838-6489

West Highland White Terrier Club of California
Susan Porter
328 N. Windsor Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90004
213-463-9113

West Highland White Terrier Club of SE Texas
Linda Wedgeworth
23210 Bright Star
Spring, TX 77373
713-821-9026

William Penn West Highland White Terrier Club
Patricia Marks
501 E. Moreland Ave.
Willow Grove, PA 19090
215-657-6085

West Highland White Terrier Club of New England
Beverly Kilinsky
RR1 Box 366
Wakefield Ave.
Webster, MA 01570
508-943-6254

Wheaten Terrier -see Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier

Wire Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier

Whippet
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389

Southern California Whippet Association
Tom and Ellen Hammatt
24062 Castilla Lane
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
714-770-9881

Western Washington Whippet Association
Leslie Griffith and Paul Winden
8004 NE 120th
Kirkland, WA 98034
206-823-4212

New England Whippet Society
Iva Kimmelman
508-897-8950
413-733-0444 Western Massachusetts
203-264-7990 Connecticut

Whippet Club of Eastern Canada
Lynn Cleary, Rescue Coordinator
R.R. #1
Glen Robertson, ON K0B 1H0
(613) 874-2802

baylist: 408-247-1749

Xoloitzcuintli
Amy Fernandez
718-544-6092
New York

Carol Fernandez
718 788 7576
New York

Yorkshire Terrier
Bluebonnet Yorkshire Terrier Club
Susan Griffin
2712 Dorrington
Dallas, TX 75228
214-320-9469

Yorkshire Terrier Club of Greater Houston
Karen Murnane 4149 Milton St.
Houston, TX 77005-2737
713-665-6866

Joyce Shiro
617-843-1749
(referrals only)

baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117

___________________________________________________________________
All breed and associated organizations

Argentine Dogo Club of America
Gabriel Moyette, rescue chairperson
Box 234
Blueberry Hill Rd.
West Shokan, NY 12494
914-657-8370
notes: "...offers a nationwide rescue for unwanted and
abandoned DOGOS. Note that these dogs are turned in under
a variety of names including Dog Argentino, Argentine
Mastiff, Argentine Bulldog and even occasionally as a large
white 'Pit Bull'. The Club has kennel space in most areas
of the country. If there is no one in the area, we will
air ship to a volunteer facility. Rescued Dogos are
neutered, temperament tested and placed in loving homes."

Purebred Rescue Association of Michigan
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
(list of Michigan rescue organization available upon request)
Megen Vee, President
313-664-9800 (days)
313-664-2548 (after 8:30 p.m.)

SF Bay Area Canine Rescue 415-851-7812 or 415-591-9918

CARE Companion Animal Rescue Effort 408-227-CARE

East Bay Animal Refferal 415-841-PAWS

Friends of the Fairmont Animal Shelter 415-357-2487

Nike Animal Rescue Foundation 408-224-6273

Pet Finders 415-566-1045

Pets & Pals 415-775-5881

Pets in Need 415-367-1405

Pets Unlimited 415-563-6700

Sighthound Rescue 415-851-7812 or 415-924-7020
Kathy Theisen 313-261-4712

Toy Breed Rescue Referrals 415-952-6520

All Breed Rescue Association (ABRA) 713-342-3078 Houston, TX

Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
P.O. Box 3523
Redmond, WA 98073
206-654-1117

Cascade Animal Protection Society
Arlou Hunter
31849 Pacific Hwy S #112
Federal Way, WA 98003

Muttmatchers Messenger/Humane Animal Rescue Team
Suzanne Kane
P.O. Box 1165
Enumclaw, WA 98022
206-825-0741

Humane Animal Rescue Team
national office
P.O. Box 920
Fillmore, CA 93016
805-524-4542

Concern for Animals
Tenino, WA
206-264-2839

Paws & Claws
Gloria 206-845-1424
Kathy 206-531-8349

Equal Rights Animal Society
P.O. Box 1572
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-863-3933

Whidbey Animal Improvement Foundation
1254 W. Pioneer Way #238
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
206-678-3722
206-321-5111
206-679-2731

Hooterville Pets
Woodinville, WA
206-488-4444
" Rescues & places large shaggy dogs, particularly
Old English Sheepdog mixes"
Jack Wilhelm
206-771-7349

Save-A-Pet, Inc.
2019 Rand Rd.
Palatine IL 60067
(708)934-7788

Rare Breeds (referral on breeds with no clubs)
Kathy De Wees 609-877-5027 (New Jersey)

Sighthound Connecticut Sighthound Club
Kathy Budney 203-666-0649 Connecticut
Linda Garwacki 413-566-3847 western Massachusetts

Terriers Robert Cowell 203-334-3025 Connecticut
(referral only on all Terrier breeds and Golden Retrievers)

Karen Howell 605-627-5668

Toys Sandy Rinder 212-475-8479 New York
(especially Maltese and Poodles)

Wolf Hybrid North American Wolf/Wolf Hybrid Rescue Network, Inc.
Sandy Williams 609-627-1186 New Jersey
Robert J. Stubbe 301-762-4607 Maryland

Carolyn Edison
9913 Ledgestone Terrace
Austin, TX 78737
512-288-4248

Alyeska Canine Trainers
Pat Bouschor
5201 Rabbit Creek Rd.
Anchorage, AK 99516
907-345-1506

Atlanta Kennel Club
Dolores Russell
c/o 2441 Old Field Rd., NW
Atlanta, GA 30327
404-296-7126

Channel City Kennel Club
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpinteria Ave.
Carpinteria, CA 93013
805-648-4914

Conyers Kennel Club of Georgia
Jackie Dilworth
570 Clubhouse Dr.
Conyers, GA 30208
404-922-4151

Imperial Valley Kennel Club
D. Michael Burk
2560 Hwy. 111
Imperial, CA 92251-9768
619-355-1270

Jacksonville DFA
Betty Jean Shuman
P.O. Box 1232
Jacksonville, FL 32201
904-733-1907

Kona Coast Kennel Club
Kathy Miller
P.O. Box 1951
Kamuela, HI 96743
808-885-4118

Lower Bucks Dog Training Club
Joe Egan
18 Quail Rd.
Levittown, PA 19057
215-949-1204

Marion-Alachua Dog Training Association
Janice Rodgers
Rt. 1, Box 470
Citra, FL 32675
904-591-1773

Onondaga Kennel Association
Jacqueline Karpinski
Young Rd.
Syracuse, NY 13512
315-492-9521

Rhode Island Kennel Club
Claudia Gaulin
120 Mirick Ave.
Cranston, RI 02920
401-944-5042

Trap Falls Kennel Club
Lilian Schneider
20 Cheryl Drive
Monroe, CT 06468
203-261-2503

Fort Saskatchewan and Area Canine Association
Lori-Ann Rice, Secretary
Box 3224
Fort Saskatchewan, AB T8L 2T2
(403) 998-0758

Grey-Bruce Kennel and Obedience Club Inc.
Ms. Mary Morris, Secretary
P.O. Box 481
Owen Sound, ON N4K 5P7
(519) 376-0401

British Columbia All Terrier Club
Sue Cairns, Corresponding Secretary
P.O. Box 2491
Vancouver, BC V6B 2W7
(604) 538-1270
_______________________________________________________________________

*Copyright (c) 1993 by Michael George Buening. Please distribute this
document freely providing you keep this copyright intact. This document
may not be sold for profit nor incorporated into commercial documents
without the express permission of the author. This document is provided
"as is".

Michael Buening
internet: mi...@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
or mi...@sanger.biocore.nd.edu

Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs,rec.answers,news.answers
From: mi...@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu (Michael George Buening)
Subject: rec.pets.dogs: Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 2/2
Sender: mike
Organization: University of Notre Dame
Reply-to: mi...@nowaksg.chem.nd.edu
Distribution: na
Approved: news-answe...@MIT.Edu
Followup-to: poster
Summary: This 2 part FAQ is simply a listing of Canine Rescue
Organizations throughout North America that have
been submitted to me by the people of rec.pets.dogs.

Archive-name: dogs-faq/rescue/part2

Version: 1.52
Laste-modified: 16 June 1993

This is the Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 2/2. It will be posted on a

regular basis and/or you can obtain the file via anonymous ftp at rtfm.mit.edu

under /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1. Or send email to
mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with

send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
in the body of the message leaving the subject line blank.

Greyhound - see also Italian Greyhound
Greyhound Club of America
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpenteria Avenue
Carpenteria, CA 93013
805-684-4914

|| Fort Myers Greyhound Adoption Center
|| Donna Forster
|| 11511 Deal Road N.
|| Fort Myers, FL 33905
|| 813-731-3187

|| Friends for Life
|| Susan Netboy
|| 5 Ranch Road
|| Woodside, CA 94062
|| 415-851-7812

|| Easthaven Animal Hospital
|| 2140 S. Huron Parkway
|| Ann Arbor, MI 48104
|| 313-971-3444

|| Greyhound Rescue, Inc.
|| Susan Greenwald
|| 118-B Jordan Court, N.E.
|| Palm Bay, FL 32905
|| 407-951-2452
|| -and-
|| John Davis
|| 6397 Woodburn Rd.
|| Elk Ridge, MD 21227
|| 410-796-2803

|| Greyhounds as Pets
|| Bill Fullerton
|| P.O. Box 6999
|| Colorado Springs, CO 80934
|| 719-633-0171

|| Frank Sawada
|| 6441 Taylor Street
|| Niagra Falls, Ontario
|| Canada L2G2E9
|| 416-357-6550

|| Maryland Chapter of GPA
|| Betty Rosen
|| 11404 Lhasa Lane
|| Lutherville, MD 21093
|| 410-252-7555

|| Greyhound Racers Recycled
|| Jan Huey
|| Box 270107
|| Houston, TX 77277-0107
|| 713-665-3366

|| Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
|| LaDonna Rea
|| PO Box 461
|| Plainfield, IN 46168-461
|| 317-745-7772
|| -and-
|| Linn Murphy
|| PO Box 218205
|| Columbus, OH 43221-8205
|| 614-777-4160
|| -and-
|| Beverly Thompson
|| 116 Mary Street
|| Washington, IL 61571
|| 309-745-5377

|| Greyhound Rescue League
|| Paula Johnson
|| 106 Cayman Lane
|| Summerland Keys, FL 33042
|| 305-872-2749
|| -and-
|| Cinda Crawford
|| PO Box 13314
|| Tallahassee, FL 32317
|| 904-878-1204

|| Make Peace with Animals, Inc.
|| Cynthia Branigan
|| PO Box 488
|| New Hope, PA 18938
|| 215-862-0605

|| Michigan Greyhound Connection
|| Susan Riegel
|| 797 River Bend Dr.
|| Rochester Hills, MI 48307
|| 313-652-6270

|| National Greyhound Adoption Program
|| David Wolfe
|| 8301 Torresdale Ave.
|| Philadelphia, PA 19136
|| 800-348-2517

|| National Greyhound Network
|| 415-851-7812
|| (will refer to the independent adoption group nearest you)

|| Northern California Sighthound Rescue
|| Sandra Wornum
|| 570 Riviera Cir.
|| Larkspur, CA 94939
|| 415-924-7020

|| Operation Greyhound
|| Bruna Palmatier
|| 8876 Shaula Way
|| San Diego, CA 92126
|| 619-695-9488

|| Oregon Greyhound Rescue
|| Elizabeth Bordeaux
|| 2207 NE 79th Ave.
|| Portland, OR 97213
|| 503-257-7220

|| Retired Greyhounds as Pets (REGAP)
|| Ron Walsek
|| PO Box 41307
|| St. Petersburg, FL 33743
|| 813-347-2206
|| -and-
|| Eileen McCaughern
|| PO Box 76
|| Bethany, CT 06525
|| 203-467-7407
|| -and-
|| Sally Allen
|| 1306 Bunker Hill Road
|| Mooresville, IN 46158
|| 317-996-2154
|| -and-
|| Christine Makepeace
|| PO Box 1861
|| Seabrook, NH 03874
|| 603-474-8340
|| -and-
|| Dale Schnepf
|| All Pets Animal Clinic
|| 3257 W. 4th Street
|| Waterloo, IA 50701
|| 319-235-0842

|| Second Chance for Greyhounds
|| Helen Banks
|| 10826 Dean Street
|| Bonita Springs, FL 33923
|| 813-947-2365

|| Tampa Greyhound Adoption Center
|| Kim Wyler
|| 5629 E. Chelsea Street
|| Tampa, FL 33610
|| 813-626-1116

|| Claire Bertine
|| 1000 Reo St. John Drive
|| Jacksonville, FL 32211
|| 904-743-6627

|| Richard Benjamin
|| PO Box 397
|| Beach Island, SC 29842
|| 803-827-0918

|| Nina Bloom-Selling
|| 4335 E. Carol Ann Lane
|| Phoenix, Arizona 85032
|| 602-493-9144

|| Pat Lewallen
|| R.R. 4, Box 232W
|| Paola, KS 66071
|| 913-294-3023

|| Diane Lunthacum
|| Rt. 2, Box 185 C
|| Thomasville, GA 31742
|| 412-226-7632

|| Cathy McIntyre
|| 15 Pickering CT #01
|| Germantowne, MD 20874
|| 301-540-4980 (area code might now be 410)

|| Vickey Price
|| Columbia, SC
|| 803-256-6939 (work)
|| 803-782-0863 (home)

|| Candy Schultz
|| Greyhound Pet Connection
|| Woodstock, IL 60098
|| 815-477-4900 (work)
|| 815-568-8403 (home)

|| Catherine Settle
|| PO Box 2157
|| Sanford, NC 27330
|| 919-775-7945

|| Ellen Stokal
|| PO Box 7044
|| Villa Park, IL 60181
|| 708-495-0074

|| Cheryly Vincent
|| 3671 Woodhaven Circle
|| Hamburg, NY 14075
|| 716-648-8106

|| Linda Zent
|| 5779 Boxwood Drive
|| Boseman, MT 59715
|| 406-586-8705

Greyhound Racing Federation Of Canada
Linda M. Reidt
R.R. #1
Baltimore, ON K0K 1C0
(416) 342-3391
REM: retired racing greyhounds placement

Susan Nutboy (track rescue)
#5 Ranch Road
Woodside, CA 94062

Sue Riegle
313-652-6270

Greyhound Club of Northern California
Marjorie Leider
1091 Batavia Ave.
Livermore, CA 94550
415-447-4502

Jane Klorer
617-729-2577

Millie Merritt
617-472-4055

Susan Gallotti
508-667-1251

Greyhound Placement Service
603-474-5965
603-942-7789
508-462-7973

Greyhound Pets of America (GPA)
1-800-FON-1GPA (toll free, of course)
(366-1472)
National referral number. Call and leave a message on the
answering machine, and a member of a local GPA chapter will
contact you.

baylist: 415-851-7812

Greyhound Friends, Inc.
Louise Coleman, Director
167 Saddle Hill Road
Hopkinton, MA 01748
508-435-5969

Greyhound Life Line
Irene Milbury
228 E. Foxboro Street
Sharon, MA 02067
617-784-2157

National Greyhound Adoption Program
215-331-7918
1-800-348-2517

Husky -see Siberian Husky

Ibizan Hound
The Ibizan Hound Club of the United States
Rose Bednarski
2318 S. 15th Pl.
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414-634-9251

Robbie Vanderpool
6566 Ridgeview Circle
Dallas, TX 75240
214-385-2240

Karen Mele
615-653-4414
Tennessee

Manette Ward
818-881-4368
California

baylist: 916-487-9979

Irish Setter
Irish Terrier Club of Northern California
Diana Martin
189 San Luis Rd.
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-938-4698

Irish Terrier Club of Southern California
Nan Bruner
13431 Winthrope St.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-633-5156

Irish Setter Club of Central Conn.
Darlene Ferris
28 Point Beach Dr.
Milford, CT 06460
203-877-2431

Irish Setter Club of Ohio
Nonda Jones
7578 River Rd.
Olmsted Falls, OH 44138
216-235-4197

Eastern Irish Setter Association
Evelyn Kearon
RD 2, Box 293A
Branchville, NJ 07826
201-948-4921

Irish Setter Club of America Rescue
and Irish Setter Club of the Pacific
Marilee Larson
510-351-2966

Irish Setter Club of Michigan
Megen O'Rukenbrod
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
313-664-2548

Eastern Irish Setter Association, Inc.
Marge Lippman
201-962-4173
Fran Sloughfy
908-362-5464
Nancy Conner
413-367-2182
Anna Jones
908-464-5720

Irish Setter Club of Ontario
Mrs. Constance O'Brien
R.R. #4 2418 South River Road
Kemptville, ON K0G 1J0
(613) 258-7765

Beth Michaud & Bob Ritchie
603-424-5436
New Hampshire

baylist: 415-351-2966

Irish Terrier
Peggy Gill
508-369-3006

Mary O'Brien
510-521-3246
California

Irish Water Spaniel
Irish Water Spaniel Club of America
Carolyn Lathrop, chairperson
125 Polk Street
Cumberland, MD 21502
301-724-9162

Elizabeth B. Petterson
5130 Kerfing Place
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
919-922-3934

Norma Heiny
RR 9, Box 97
Bridgeton, NJ 08302
609-451-7480

Nona and Harlan Noel
1835 Lakeshore Drive
Michigan City, IN 46360
219-872-0775

Nancy Wiley
3150 Paradise Drive
Tiburon, CA 94920
415-461-7533
Florence Blecher
3310 Adina Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90068
213-874-0944

Irish Wolfhound
Sharon Yaskulski
219-534-2086

Irish Wolfhound Club of Puget Sound
Beverly Little
16252 Tiger Mountain Rd.
Issaquah, WA 98027
206-392-7241

Irish Wolfhound Rescue Trust
Pat Huntley
16513 Napa Street
Sepulveda, CA 91343
818-894-8988

Potomac Valley Irish Wolfhound Club
Herb Savage
Rte. 1, Box 711-D
Accokeek, MD 20607
301-283-4474

Irish Wolfhound Association of New England
Marcia Frankel
413-458-3269
Western Massachusetts

Irish Wolfhound Association of the Delaware Valley
Mrs. Frances Hall
Box 43, R.R. 1
Low's Hollow Rd.
Stewartsville, NJ 08886
201-859-3957

baylist: 818-894-8988

Italian Greyhound
Italian Greyhound Club of America
Leslie Parsons
925 Canton St. NW
Palm Bay, FL 32907
407-724-9170

June Mastrocola
W137 N9332 HY 145
Menomonee Falls, WI 53051
414-251-8347

Ray Filburn
508-927-7309

Cathie Wilt
207-594-8492
Maine

Jack Russel Terrier
Jennifer Carr
508-676-1061 (work)
401-737-1041 (home)

Japanese Chin(Spaniel)
Betty Dickey
517-792-6275

Malcolm Barr
703-354-0199
Virginia

Japanese Shiba Inu
Mary Malone
216-823-2388
Ohio

Keeshond
Keeshond Club of Greater Oklahoma City
Tommie Howard
4015 S. Dobbs
Harrah, OK 73045
405-271-3922
405-391-4738

Nor-Cal Keeshond Club, Inc.
430 Bay Rd.
Menlo Park, CA 94025
415-322-2246

Peak to Peak Keeshond Fanciers
Carol Schwenk
220 Cypress Circle
Broomfield, CO 80020
303-469-4181

Peak to Peak Keeshond Rescue
Sue Riegel
1878 Old Highway #52
Erie, CO 80516

Mary Ellen Grace
508-222-3300

baylist: 415-322-2246

Pacific Crest Keeshond Club
Pat Shuler
1520 NE 106th
Seattle, WA 98125
206-362-6727

Kerry Blue Terrier
Empire Kerry Blue Terrier Club Gwen Resk
645 Pine Brook Blvd.
New Rochelle, NY 10804
914-235-8555

Greater Boston Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Rhoda Bergman (N.E. Mass)
Off Cross Rd.
Lunenberg, MA 01462
508-342-5044
or Brian Lowney (S.E. Mass and R.I.)
1307 Gardners Neck Rd.
South Swansea, MA 02777
508-672-6086

United States Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Joanne K. Schlindler, chair
12056 Cedar Creek
Cincinnati, OH 45240
513-742-3745

King Charles Spaniel -see Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel

Komondor
Pat Randall
512-288-2091

Middle Atlantic States Komondor Club
Stewart L. Wells
102 North Church
Snow Hill, MD 21863
301-632-2180

Komondor Club of America
Komondor Rescue Committee
Pat Randall
10600 Little Thicket Dr.
Austin, TX 78736
512-288-2091

Joy Levy
609-924-0199
New Jersey

Ruth/Ken Todd
516-379-8286
New York

Kuvasz
Kuvasz Club of America,Inc.
Aino Andres
914-664-8104
New York

Mayling Koval
914-221-2066
New York

Labrador Retriever
Golden Gate Labrador Retriever Club
Paul and Anne Gamlin
762 Cedar St.
San Carlos, CA 94070
415-592-8394

Labrador Retriever Club of the Pioneer Valley
Lois Engel
55 Rural Road
Belchertown, MA 01007
413-323-4822
413-323-7672

Labrador Retriever Rescue Hotline
Central Connecticut

Labrador Retriever Club of Central Connecticut
Julie Starkweather
203-426-0770

Labrador Retriever Rescue of PA
Pam Heidorn
215-822-8589
Chalfont, PA
Mary Pat Meirs
215-953-0147
Feasterville, PA
Eileen Melair
215-343-7929
Warrington, PA
Pat Henning
215-489-0710 (after 7pm)
Collegeville, PA

Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston
Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc.
c/o Jill Silverman
504 Essex St.
South Hamilton, MA 01982
508-369-8736

Doris Aylward
603-642-8686
New Hampshire

Sue Willumsen
603-837-5719
New Hampshire

Sharon Phelts
517-651-2080

baylist: 415-592-8394 (Lizalee says this is Lorrie Bellows)
916-752-1393

Lakeland Terrier
United States Lakeland Terrier Club
Harold Tatro, III
804 Quail Run
Nassau Bay II
Granbury, TX 76048
817-326-5525

Lhasa Apso
San Diego County Lhasa Apso Club
Willima and Shirley Benedict
11202 Promesa Drive
San Diego, CA 92124
619-278-2484

Gino Blaisdell
508-583-8460

Lowchen
Gini Denninger
315-524-8022
New York

Malamute -see Alaskan Malamute
Maltese
Evergreen Maltese Club
Berverly Passe
6015 Rosedale St. NW
Gig Harbor, WA 98335
206-858-9266

Kim Catizone
603-883-8240
New Hampshire

baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117

Manchester Terriers
Evergreen Empire Manchester Terrier Fanciers
Mauriel Hankel
4961 NE 193rd St.
Seattle, WA 98155
206-365-0445

Mastiff -see also Neapolitan Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Mastiff Club of America Rescue Service
Phyllis Miller
P.O. Box 1670
La Jolla, CA 92037
619-454-8984
Jim Hoobin
508-399-7315

Lucinda
414-822-8785

Mastiff Club of America
Mary-Louise Owens
RD 1, Box 627
Phelps Street
Gloversville, NY 12078
518-661-6493

Miniature Pinscher
Canadian Miniature Pinscher Club
Edris Matulock
6611 - 8th Ave.
Regina, SK S4T 7H3
(306) 949-6593

Namcy Johnson
703-297-7200

Joyce Sproule
508-378-9061

Miniature Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-Miniature

Neapolitan Mastiff -see also Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Carol Paulsen
315-389-4028
New York

Newfoundland
Linda Stierle
313-335-3871

Newfoundland Club of America
Mary L. Price
1004 Hwy. 78 South
Mt. Horeb, WI 53572
609-437-4553

Newfoundland Dog Club of the Twin Cities
Nancy Robinson
8338 12th Ave. S.
Bloomington, MN 55420
612-854-6943
or Lory Cosgrove
410 Lakorta Lane
Chanhassen, MN 55318
612-496-3628

Newfoundland Club of New England
Ellen Katz
617-329-8157

baylist: 415-364-7637

Norfolk Terrier and Norwich Terrier
Norwich and Norfolk Terriers
Martha Seaman
313-647-1603

Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club
Mrs. Lee Donaldson
121 Carolina Forest
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
919-929-3105

Mrs. Joseph Mattison
617-326-0950

Norwegian Elkhound
Norwegian Elkhound Club of Potomac Valley
Geri King
3028 Hewitt Ave., #238
Silver Spring, MD 20906
301-871-5487

Barbara Plant
508-636-5548
(referrals only)

Marion Szymanski
508-747-2728

baylist: 415-591-8056

Old English Sheepdog
Chicagoland Old English Sheepdog Club
Grace Fujikawa
381 Fairview Ave.
Winnetka, IL 60093
312-446-7381

Heather
313-338-8828

Greater Pittsburg Old English Sheedog Club
Chris Gaburri
457 Orchard Ave.
Pittsburg, PA 15202
412-761-0493

Greater Portland Old English Sheepdog Club
Nancy Miller
1850 SW Filmont
Portland, OR 97225
503-646-6187

New England Old English Sheepdog Club
Annie Raker
Stonehendge
Lincoln, MA 01773
617-259-8173

Old English Sheepdog Fanciers of Central Arizona
Cheryl Kulzer
2112 N. Pennington Dr.
Chandler, AZ 85244
602-821-5727

Old English Sheepdog League of Northern California
Pam Henry
2491 Darla Dr.
Santa Rosa, CA 95401
707-579-1848

|| Madeline Ericson
|| 716-293-2967
|| NY (Buffalo area)

Twin Colonies Old English Sheepdog Club of Norther NewJersey
Shelia Kenyon
4 Log Rd.
Morristown, NJ 07960
201-538-4129

Otter Hound
Otterhound Club of America
Betsy Conway Rd1, Box 134A
Yorktown Heights, NY 10598

Ellen Katz
617-329-8157

Russell Von der Linden
603-298-8432
New Hampshire

baylist: 415-851-4248

Papillon
Metropolitan Area Papillion Club of Washinton, DC
Margaret Quarts
3650 Mill Creek Dr.
Haymarket, VA 22069
703-754-2557

Papillon Club of America
Diana Fuchs
Rt. 7, Box 5310
Quincy, FL 32351
904-875-1422

Patriot Papillon Rescue Committee
508-339-5620
508-597-5382
508-948-2278

Jackie & Ray Potocki
508-462-7607 home
508-462-6534 work

Jan Burger
508-948-2275

PBGV -see Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen

Pekingese
|| Hope Burghardt
|| 607-547-5207 (Cooperstown, NY)
|| 703-456-8395 (Virginia)
|| * Hope may also be contacted for assistance with Toy
|| Poodles, Japanese Chins, Boston Pugs, Pomeranians, and
|| most Toy breeds.

Allison Chase
603-672-6049
New Hampshire

Pembroke Welsh Corgi -see Welsh Corgi Pembroke

Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
Jennifer King
908-462-0340
New Jersey

Barbara Wicklund
908-281-6532 home
609-396-2904 work
New Jersey

Pharoah Hound
Rita Sacks
914-687-9200

Ellen DeWolf
508-867-7437

baylist: 916-687-6696

Pointer
Erica Bandes
203-266-7883
Connecticut

Poodle
Greater Pittsburg Poodle Club
Mary Lou Patrick
RD 1, Box 195
Clinton, PA 15026

Poodle Club of Southeast Michigan
Nancy Nastasi
41940 Quince Dr.
Novi, MI 48050
313-344-0181

Poodle Club of Tulsa
Mary Yeakey
2506 S. Cincinnati
Tulsa, OK 74114
918-582-0301

Sherry Wargo
517-795-2663

Poodle Rescue Program Poodle Club of Central California
Patricia Moulthrop, chair
815 Las Trampas Road
Lafayette, CA 94549
voice mail: 510-295-1070

Esther-Mary Farrington
617-491-0210

|| Fraya Katz
|| 603-465-2774
|| Hollis,NH

baylist: Betty Janz (standard poodle)
15870 Turquise Pl.
Grass Valley, CA 95945

Portuguese Water Dog
Jane Harding
20 Driftway Lane
Darien, CT 06820
203-655-7258

Pug
Bluebonnet Pug Dog Club
Margaret Dunning
1107 Derbyshire Lane
Carrollton, TX 75007
214-242-6175

Central Indiana Pug Club
Donald Foral
3502 E. 39th St.
Indianapolis, IN 46205
317-546-7815

City of Angels Pug Club
Blanche Roberts
22963 Hatteras
Woodland Hills, CA 91367
818-703-5026

Columbine Pug Club of Denver, Colorado
Quaylene Frazier
12478 W. Bowler Dr.
Littleton, CO 80127
303-972-2558

Great Lakes Pug Club
Geraldine Woodrick
10839 S. Nagle Ave.
Worth, IL 60482
312-448-7819

Greater Atlanta Pug Dog Club
Teri Smith
Rt. 1, Box 76-3 Weems Rd.
Molena, GA 30258
404-648-6710
404-647-6622

Greater Milwaukee Pug Club
Barbara Nook
6820 N. Trenton Rd.
West Bend, WI 53095
414-338-6860

Mid Michigan Pug Club
Terry Smith
221 E. Scott St.
Grand Ledge, MI 48837
517-627-5916

Missouri Valley Pug Fanciers
Barbara Hull
Rt. 1, Box 31
Denton, NE 68339
402-475-6841
402-474-5331

Pug Club of South Florida
Pat Antle
208 Farmington Dr.
Plantation, FL 33317
305-587-0556

Pug Dog Club of Greater Cincinnati
Maryl Hodapp
1080 Hine Rd.
Hamilton, OH 45013
513-892-0014

Pug Dog Club of Greater New York
Ceilia Geary
50 Greenwich Ave., Apt. 5C
New York, NY 10011
212-929-6606
or Shirley Thomas
43-64 Bowne St.
Flushing, NY 11355
718-762-7508

Pug Dog Club of Greater San Antonio
Marilynn Ellis 4207 N. Halsey
Victoria, TX 77901
512-573-2556

Pug Club of Maryland
Billie Hitt
14249 Briarwood Terrace
Rockville, MD 20853
301-871-8063

Pug Dog Club of Northern California
Barry Clothier
3339 Irving St.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-566-6009

Pug Rescue of New England
Doris Aldrich
17 Jones Rd.
Pelham, MA 01002
413-253-3066
or Fran Stuart
31 Pine St.
Peterborough, NH 03458
603-924-6026

Puget Sound Pug Dog Club
Carolyn McDuffie
832 SW 142nd St.
Seattle, WA 98166
206-241-0658

Tampa Bay Pug Club
Elizabeth Page
3965 Richy Rd.
Mims, FL 32754
407-269-0555

Betty Dickey
517-792-6275

Yankee Pug Dog Club
Debora Chamberland
183 Cedar St.
****can't tell the address*****

Dot Kelly
617-837-5719

baylist: 415-592-0732 or 408-252-0598

Puli
Puli Club of America
Betty Ostermeier
303-364-2836
Colorado

Rat Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093

Rhodesian Ridgeback
Orange Coast Rhodesian Rigdeback Club
Barbara Rupert
19071 Equestrian Lane
Orange, CA 92660
714-532-5559

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States
Natalie Carlton
5630 N. Abington Rd.
Tucson, AZ 85743
602-743-7570

Trinity Valley Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Texas
Sandra Morehart (East of I-135)
6122 Blackberry Lane
Dallas, TX 75248
214-387-1059
or Bobbie Gould (West of I-135)
5927 Inks Lake Dr.
Arlington, TX 76018
817-468-7300

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the U.S. Rescue/Adoption
Ulla-Britt Ekengren
508-649-7020

Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Eastern Canada
Jo Dunn, President
R.R. #3
Walkerton, ON N0G 2V0
(519) 881-0886

Mary MacKinnon
802-644-5388
Vermont

Ross Zoll & Natalie Bandeian
203-389-8676
Connecticut

Rottweiller
Jennifer Beban
313-749-5370

Aloha State Rottweiler Club
Claire Inouye
608 Hunapaa St.
Honolulu, HI 96816
808-734-0401

Rottweiler Club of Maine Rescue League(Maine only)
Jonathan Petry
207-549-5541
Augusta Maine

Debra Cone & Larry Hamilton
207-457-2074

Bonnie Buckley(also other breeds and mixed breeds)
508-346-9068

Karen Billings
617-449-2452(eastern Mass. only)

The following are all in Florida:
In Jacksonville area:
Ray Gunderson 904-778-8524
Pat Stout 904-268-0207
Patricia Gilliard 904-384-5857
Marja McGinnis 904-262-4103 Home weekdays

In West Palm Beach Area:
Jackie Humphries 407-684-1112
Pat Swindle 407-471-5756
Carla Hopper 305-435-3985
Chip Dore 407-798-5153

In Havana, FL area:
Bonnie & Al Wimberly 904-539-9663

Alicia DeCelle
601-832-8450
In MS

baylist: 818-765-5997

Saint Bernard
Greater Milwaukee St. Bernard Club
Jan Much
924 E. Michigan
Oak Creek, WI 53154
414-764-0262

North Texas St. Bernard Club
Kathy Bishop
c/o 1423 Hampton Rd.
Grapevine, TX 76051
214-727-3537

Northern Colorado St. Bernard Club
Patty Neumayer
913 S. Rifle St.
Aurora, CO 80017
303-695-1349

St. Bernard Club of Puget Sound
Carole Dvorak
P.O. Box 343 Maple Valley, WA 98038
206-432-0506

Southern Maryland St. Bernard Fanciers
Cathy Babins
D'Aosta Kennels, Rte. 1
Box 123A
Waldorf, MD 20601
301-843-6406
or Dawn Camp
301-934-3785

St. Bernard Club of the Pacific Coast
Penny Mahon
15244 Arnold Dr.
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-996-4319

Judy Sage
313-682-9628

New England St. Bernard Club
Janice Myers
508-697-7790

Cindy Stark
508-852-2483

Liz Gaudet
203-746-4603
Connecticut

Saluki
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389

San Angeles Saluki Club
Len Lundgren
P.O. Box 44517
Sylmar, CA 44157
818-369-9033

Celeste Johnson Frasher
203-322-6370
Connecticut

Lorraine Tremholm
508-385-9936

baylist: 415-924-7020

Samoyed

Northern California Samoyed Fanciers
Gail Spieker
San Francisco, CA
415-325-8115

Potomac Valley Samoyed Club
Jim Lamott
14908 Chestnut Ridge Ct.
Gaithersburg, MD 20878
301-340-9804

baylist: Wilna Coulter
211 Lynton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070

Samoyed Club of Washington
Sandra Goodspeed
11718 - 193rd Ave E
Sumner, WA 98380

Shar Pei -see Chinese Shar Pei

Schipperke
Lone Star Schipperke Club
Beverly Henry
2025 Sam Houston Cr.
Carrollton, TX 75006
214-416-1504

Colonial Schipperke Club
Mary Nielsen
700 Forest Park Rd.
Great Falls, VA 22066
703-759-3820

Marie Hills
508-476-2478

Schnauzer-Giant
Jody K'Burg
609-935-5694
New Jersey

Doris Redmann
815-678-3311

baylist: 415-262-0597

Schnauzer-Miniature
Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Jonnie Hart
3085 SW 107th Avenue
Portland, OR 97225
503-292-6510

Hannah Whitman
503-244-0145

Rick Vaughn
513-423-7960

Miniature Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Milly Robertson
172 Kelton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070
415-591-9918

Miniature Schnauzer Club of Southern California
Peggie Blakley
9761 11th St.
Garden Grove, CA 92644
714-531-7473
Ruth Ziegler
1018 Montego Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90049
213-472-7993
Mt. Vernon Miniature Schnauzer Club
Carol Patterson
800 N. York Rd.
Sterling, VA 22170
703-450-4287

Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Club
Cathy Stone
9 Forest Dr.
Auburn, MA 01501
508-754-8559

Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Janet Loreck
508-668-2197

baylist: 415-591-9918

Schnauzer-Standard
Potomac Valley Standard Schnauzer
Mrs. Jerry Spellman
2722 Berryland Dr.
Oakton, VA 22124
703-620-5937

Standard Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Mary Lou Just
3758 Hatchers Circle
Stockton, CA 95209
209-473-0323 or Ernest Roche
655 Barneson Ave.
San Mateo, CA 94402

Mary Richards
213-454-2369

Scottish Deerhound
Scottish Deerhound Club of America
Deborah Day Hughes
517-769-2444
Michigan

Elin Phinizy
603-835-6074
New Hampshire

Scottish Terrier
San Francisco Bay Scottish Terrier Club
Peggy Burge
2593 Mt. Pleasant Rd.
San Jose, CA 95122
408-238-2327

Scottish Terrier Club of America
Mrs. Jackie Seelbach
17 Pine Tree Rd.
Ramsey, NJ 07446
Caryl Alten & Dennis Milewski
4601 Woodward Ave
Donwners Grove, IL 60515
708-963-1374

Scottish Terrier Club of California
Sally McElvain
1649 Ninth St.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
213-374-1588

Scottish Terrier Club of Greater Atlanta
Greg Bobbs
831 Derrydown Way
Decatur, GA 30030
404-373-9526

Scottish Terrier Club of Greater New York
William Berry
3 Sagamore Rd.
Parsippany, NJ 07054 201-227-1871

Scottish Terrier Club of Michigan
Paul DeBene
5757 Belle River Rd.
Imlay City, MI 48444
313-724-0161

Bill Mark
313-659-6450

Barbara Albright
603-887-4762
New Hampshire

baylist: Deborah Knous
3090 Los Prados
San Mateo, CA 94403

Sealyham Terrier
Pat Miller
217-877-0245

American Sealyham Terrier Club
M. Thelma Miller
c/o Lindley Rd.
RD #1, Box 90
Canonsburg, PA 15317
217-877-0245

Patsy Wood
215-935-1776
Pennsylvania

Daryl Pakkala
919-347-4772
California

Shepherd -see German Shepherd Dog

Shetland Sheepdog
Diane Bassett
No. Cal. Shetland Sheepdog Club
415-359-5181

Trish
313-522-4663

Colonial Shetland Sheepdog Club
Madelyn Cirinna
74 Maple St.
West Newberry, MA 01985
508-363-2978

Evergreen State Shetland Sheepdog Club
Lynn Erckmann
4761 162nd Ave., NE
Redmond, WA 98052
206-885-0701

Interlocking Shetland Sheepdog Club of Monee, Inc.
Jane Naden
417 Arlington
Crete, IL 60417
708-672-7258

Shetland Sheepdog Club of Austin
Vonnie Taylor
2206 Galway
Austin, TX 78758
512-834-2201

Sherry Lindsey
P.O. Box 241
Seguin, TX 78156
512-379-4510

Debbie De Nardo
203-526-4018
Connecticut

Shiba Inu -see Japanese Shiba Inu

Shih Tzu
Joyce Deval
313-383-1374

Bonnie Bean
508-544-8808

Siberian Husky
Ruth Henningsen
201-697-9456

Rosemary Laubach
908-431-1169

Michele Thie
517-546-0514

Siberian Husky Club of Hawaii
Cheryl Chang
47-685 Hui Alala St.
Kaneohe, HI 96744
808-239-6693

Susan Herlihy
617-593-7331
(referrals only)

Yankee Siberian Husky Rescue Service
Sheila Blanker
413-498-4455
Western Massachusetts

baylist: Andy Gach
1621 Christina Dr.
Las Altos, CA 94022

Silky Terrier
Richard Hammond Silky Terrier Rescue
Mrs. Lee Easton
18801 NE Willimason Road
Newberg, OR 97132
503-538-5112
Ivy Rogers
656 Santa Maria Road
El Sobrante, CA 94803
510-222-8240

Silky Terrier Club of America
Ms. I.D. Rogers
415-222-8240
California

Skye Terrier
Skye Terrier Club of Southern California
Dolly Stofer
2095 W. Acacia Rd.
Palm Springs, CA 92262
619-323-0632

Skye Terrier Club of America
John D. Bower
HC60 Box 75A
Granville, Mass. 01034
413-357-6104

Smooth Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier

Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier
Christan Peterson
313-642-5255

Delaware Valley Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club
Richard Tomlinson
4428 Province Line Rd.
Princeton, NJ 08540
609-924-1453

The Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Northern California
Sonya Urquhart
775 Wesley Drive
Vacaville, CA 95688
707-446-7494
Robyn Alexander
1819 Rose Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
415-526-7948

Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Metro, N.Y.
Sally and Ray Murtha
149 Berry Hill Rd.
Syosset, NY 11791
516-921-8741

baylist: 415-526-7048

Springer Spaniel -see English Springer, Welsh Springer

Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club
Linda Barker
1119 N. Naomi St.
Burbank, CA 91505
818-843-4861

Standard Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-standard

Tibetan Mastiff
Kathy Miller
301-932-1776

Toy Fox Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093

Vizsla
Connecticut Valley Vizsla Club
John Morris
2 Promontory Dr.
Cheshire, CT 06410

Tampa Bay Vizsla Club
Judy Heiser
3541 NW 14th Ave.
Pompano Beach, FL 33064
305-941-9392

Vizsla Club of Northern California
Jenni Woodside
28 Eastwood Dr.
Orinda, CA 94563
415-376-7865

Vizsla Club of Greater New York
Elaine Panebianco
33 Whistler Hill Lane
Huntington, NY 11743
516-266-1602

Vizsla Club of America
Rick Davis, chairperson
150 Stilla Har Drive
Westminster, SC 29693
803-647-5914

Sue Gray
508-877-5708
baylist: 415-566-9289

Weimaraner
Delaware Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Manser
2040 Kerr Rd.
Harleysville, PA 19438
215-584-0615

Greater Charleston Weimaraner Club
Linda Weick
103 Eagle Dr.
Summerville, SC 29483
803-873-3796

Weimaraner Club of America and the
Weimaraner Club of Greater St. Louis
Rebecca Weimer
324 Sundew Drive
Belleville, IL 62221
618-236-1466

Weimaraner Club of South Florida
Susan Warner
6630 West 13th Court
Hialeah, FL 33012

Western Washington Weimaraner Club
Debra Follensbee
3021 87th Ave., Ct. E.
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-845-2464

John and Chris McLaughlin
508-655-6188

Yankee Weimeraner Club
Kathleen Lallemand
10 Timberlee Land
Westford, MA 01886
508-692-2267
or
Ellen O'Leske
508-885-4255

Sacramento Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Dunn
13560 Skyline Blvd.
Oakland, CA 94619
415-635-3921

Sylvia Ashton
313-683-4776

Karen Mayo
313-475-2296

Welsh Corgi Cardigan
Cardigan Welsh Corgi Club of America Rescue
H. Pamela Allen, chairperson
406 E. Alexandria Avenue
Alexandria, VA 22301
703-836-1963

Joyce Sproule
508-378-9061
(referral only)

Welsh Corgi Pembroke
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
Ellen Childs
203-379-0668

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Florida
(central and north Florida)
Jean Bates
3707 Edgewater Drive
Orlando, FL 32804
407-298-1945

(west Florida)
Bonnie Hansen
10993 124th Avenue N
Largo, FL 34648
813-585-1221

(east Florida)
Deborah Shindle
3906 Indian River Drive
Vero Beach, FL 32963
407-231-0517

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Rescue League
Hilda W. Towery
91 Willard Drive
Marietta, GA 30066
404-428-8919

Deanna B. Kuhn, chair
33965 N. Fairfield Rd.
Round Lake, IL 60073
708-546-1739

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Potomac
Diane Gaskins
1113 Justa Lane
Cockeysville, MD 21030
301-252-8833

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Southern California, Inc.
Meredith Brittain
18393 Buckhorn Rd.
San Bernardino, CA 92407
714-887-5057

Terri Swaim
135 Tall Pine Lane
Ortonville, MI 48462
313-627-3723

Deb Beal
203-535-3913

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
Ellen Childs
203-379-0668
Connecticut

Pembroke Welsh Corgi Association of Canada
Ms. Susan O'Heir, National Secretary
25 Nottingham Dr.
Etobicoke, ON M9A 2W4
(416) 234-5431

Welsh Terrier

Welsh Terrier Club of America
Rob Savage
1624 Des Plaines
Chicago, IL 60616
312-421-1557

Welsh Terrier Cares Rescue Service
Ward Morris
485 Overbrook Drive, NW
Atlanta, GA 30318
404-351-1330

Bardi McLennan
203-227-3926
Connecticut

West Highland White Terrier
West Highland White Terrier Club of Greater Baltimore
Joe and Naomi Engers
807 Prospect Mill Rd.
Bel Air, MD 21014
301-838-6489

West Highland White Terrier Club of California
Susan Porter
328 N. Windsor Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90004
213-463-9113

West Highland White Terrier Club of SE Texas
Linda Wedgeworth
23210 Bright Star
Spring, TX 77373
713-821-9026

William Penn West Highland White Terrier Club
Patricia Marks
501 E. Moreland Ave.
Willow Grove, PA 19090
215-657-6085

West Highland White Terrier Club of New England
Beverly Kilinsky
RR1 Box 366
Wakefield Ave.
Webster, MA 01570
508-943-6254

Wheaten Terrier -see Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier

Wire Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier

Whippet
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389

Southern California Whippet Association
Tom and Ellen Hammatt
24062 Castilla Lane
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
714-770-9881

Western Washington Whippet Association
Leslie Griffith and Paul Winden
8004 NE 120th
Kirkland, WA 98034
206-823-4212

New England Whippet Society
Iva Kimmelman
508-897-8950
413-733-0444 Western Massachusetts
203-264-7990 Connecticut

Whippet Club of Eastern Canada
Lynn Cleary, Rescue Coordinator
R.R. #1
Glen Robertson, ON K0B 1H0
(613) 874-2802

baylist: 408-247-1749

Xoloitzcuintli
Amy Fernandez
718-544-6092
New York

Carol Fernandez
718 788 7576
New York

Yorkshire Terrier
Bluebonnet Yorkshire Terrier Club
Susan Griffin
2712 Dorrington
Dallas, TX 75228
214-320-9469

Yorkshire Terrier Club of Greater Houston
Karen Murnane 4149 Milton St.
Houston, TX 77005-2737
713-665-6866

Joyce Shiro
617-843-1749
(referrals only)

baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117

___________________________________________________________________
All breed and associated organizations

Argentine Dogo Club of America
Gabriel Moyette, rescue chairperson
Box 234
Blueberry Hill Rd.
West Shokan, NY 12494
914-657-8370
notes: "...offers a nationwide rescue for unwanted and
abandoned DOGOS. Note that these dogs are turned in under
a variety of names including Dog Argentino, Argentine
Mastiff, Argentine Bulldog and even occasionally as a large
white 'Pit Bull'. The Club has kennel space in most areas
of the country. If there is no one in the area, we will
air ship to a volunteer facility. Rescued Dogos are
neutered, temperament tested and placed in loving homes."

Purebred Rescue Association of Michigan
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
(list of Michigan rescue organization available upon request)
Megen Vee, President
313-664-9800 (days)
313-664-2548 (after 8:30 p.m.)

SF Bay Area Canine Rescue 415-851-7812 or 415-591-9918

CARE Companion Animal Rescue Effort 408-227-CARE

East Bay Animal Refferal 415-841-PAWS

Friends of the Fairmont Animal Shelter 415-357-2487

Nike Animal Rescue Foundation 408-224-6273

Pet Finders 415-566-1045

Pets & Pals 415-775-5881

Pets in Need 415-367-1405

Pets Unlimited 415-563-6700

Sighthound Rescue 415-851-7812 or 415-924-7020
Kathy Theisen 313-261-4712

Toy Breed Rescue Referrals 415-952-6520

All Breed Rescue Association (ABRA) 713-342-3078 Houston, TX

Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
P.O. Box 3523
Redmond, WA 98073
206-654-1117

Cascade Animal Protection Society
Arlou Hunter
31849 Pacific Hwy S #112
Federal Way, WA 98003

Muttmatchers Messenger/Humane Animal Rescue Team
Suzanne Kane
P.O. Box 1165
Enumclaw, WA 98022
206-825-0741

Humane Animal Rescue Team
national office
P.O. Box 920
Fillmore, CA 93016
805-524-4542

Concern for Animals
Tenino, WA
206-264-2839

Paws & Claws
Gloria 206-845-1424
Kathy 206-531-8349

Equal Rights Animal Society
P.O. Box 1572
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-863-3933

Whidbey Animal Improvement Foundation
1254 W. Pioneer Way #238
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
206-678-3722
206-321-5111
206-679-2731

Hooterville Pets
Woodinville, WA
206-488-4444
" Rescues & places large shaggy dogs, particularly
Old English Sheepdog mixes"
Jack Wilhelm
206-771-7349

Save-A-Pet, Inc.
2019 Rand Rd.
Palatine IL 60067
(708)934-7788

Rare Breeds (referral on breeds with no clubs)
Kathy De Wees 609-877-5027 (New Jersey)

Sighthound Connecticut Sighthound Club
Kathy Budney 203-666-0649 Connecticut
Linda Garwacki 413-566-3847 western Massachusetts

Terriers Robert Cowell 203-334-3025 Connecticut
(referral only on all Terrier breeds and Golden Retrievers)

Karen Howell 605-627-5668

Toys Sandy Rinder 212-475-8479 New York
(especially Maltese and Poodles)

Wolf Hybrid North American Wolf/Wolf Hybrid Rescue Network, Inc.
Sandy Williams 609-627-1186 New Jersey
Robert J. Stubbe 301-762-4607 Maryland

Carolyn Edison
9913 Ledgestone Terrace
Austin, TX 78737
512-288-4248

Alyeska Canine Trainers
Pat Bouschor
5201 Rabbit Creek Rd.
Anchorage, AK 99516
907-345-1506

Atlanta Kennel Club
Dolores Russell
c/o 2441 Old Field Rd., NW
Atlanta, GA 30327
404-296-7126

Channel City Kennel Club
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpinteria Ave.
Carpinteria, CA 93013
805-648-4914

Conyers Kennel Club of Georgia
Jackie Dilworth
570 Clubhouse Dr.
Conyers, GA 30208
404-922-4151

Imperial Valley Kennel Club
D. Michael Burk
2560 Hwy. 111
Imperial, CA 92251-9768
619-355-1270

Jacksonville DFA
Betty Jean Shuman
P.O. Box 1232
Jacksonville, FL 32201
904-733-1907

Kona Coast Kennel Club
Kathy Miller
P.O. Box 1951
Kamuela, HI 96743
808-885-4118

Lower Bucks Dog Training Club
Joe Egan
18 Quail Rd.
Levittown, PA 19057
215-949-1204

Marion-Alachua Dog Training Association
Janice Rodgers
Rt. 1, Box 470
Citra, FL 32675
904-591-1773

Onondaga Kennel Association
Jacqueline Karpinski
Young Rd.
Syracuse, NY 13512
315-492-9521

Rhode Island Kennel Club
Claudia Gaulin
120 Mirick Ave.
Cranston, RI 02920
401-944-5042

Trap Falls Kennel Club
Lilian Schneider
20 Cheryl Drive
Monroe, CT 06468
203-261-2503

Fort Saskatchewan and Area Canine Association
Lori-Ann Rice, Secretary
Box 3224
Fort Saskatchewan, AB T8L 2T2
(403) 998-0758

Grey-Bruce Kennel and Obedience Club Inc.
Ms. Mary Morris, Secretary
P.O. Box 481
Owen Sound, ON N4K 5P7
(519) 376-0401

British Columbia All Terrier Club
Sue Cairns, Corresponding Secretary
P.O. Box 2491
Vancouver, BC V6B 2W7
(604) 538-1270
_______________________________________________________________________