Onan stops when letting go of start button, again
Doomaz
Onan 4kw Emerald 1.
Running fine. It stopped because of low fuel. I stopped about 5 mins. later
and filled the tank (gas) and started it. It did as it always does; it
started and ran for 5 secs. then stopped. Normally I have to hold the start
in for up to 45 secs. and then off it goes, once it gets the fresh gas. This
time it sputtered a couple of times, and then died. From then on it will run
with the Start switch held in, but as soon as I let up it dies. It is
putting out some voltage as the fridge switches over to AC but the Air
Conditioner does not come on.
Is this a regulator board? I tried shorting the oil pressure input to ground
as it had oil, but nothing there.
Brian Elfert
>Running fine. It stopped because of low fuel. I stopped about 5 mins. later
>and filled the tank (gas) and started it. It did as it always does; it
>started and ran for 5 secs. then stopped. Normally I have to hold the start
>in for up to 45 secs. and then off it goes, once it gets the fresh gas. This
Mine did this just yesterday. I had not used it for two months.
It would start and then die right away. I held the start/stop button down
on the stop side for 15 seconds which primes the carb. It then started
and ran just fine for the next two hours.
Brian Elfert
Doomaz
"Brian Elfert" <bel...@visi.com> wrote in message
news:3f08713f$0$1396$a186...@newsreader.visi.com...
Mine runs as long as the switch is held on, but then dies when released. I
saw one message a while back that it switches over to internal 12vdc from
the battery 12vdc once the switch is released. That's why I think it's the
regulator board but not sure.
Lee Bray
Hope your solution is not the same as mine, I ended up replacing the
regulator
Cost: $335 it was a 4k Onan. I tried all the tips but nothing worked,
ended up
taking it to a onan tech and that was the diagnosis. Wish you luck!!!!!
Hey remember it is only money, but the MH is fun!!!!
Lee
"Doomaz" <Doo...@doomaz.com> wrote in message > Mine runs as long as the
Jon Porter
Turn the AC *off* before starting it! That heavy load at startup is probably
what is causing your problem.
Alan Robinson
When you are starting the genset, it is running from battery
power, ignoring the low oil pressure switch, and ignoring any
'stop' signal whether from local or remote switch. To switch to
'run' mode and stay running, it -must- be generating somewhere
close to the correct voltage, must have oil pressure, and
must -not- have a stop signal from local or remote switch.
As a first step, unplug the remote connector (right side of
genset control box) and try starting with the switch on the
genset - if it stays running, you have a problem with the remote
switch or wiring.
If that doesn't do it, you need to hook up a voltmeter to the
output of the genset and see what voltage it actually -is-
putting out. If the voltage is (approx 45v) and the set is one of
the early transformer-regulated Emeralds (spec A-C), you may have
blown the diode bridge in the control box. If the Emerald is a
later (electronic regulator) spec, you -may- have blown the
regulator. This is usually caused by tarnish buildup on the slip
rings causing high resistance in the field circuit - remove the
cover in the genset housing behind the air cleaner to expose the
brush holder and measure resistance from one brush lead to the
other - should be approx 25 ohms - much more than 35 ohms is a
potential problem, and will require cleaning the slip rings and
brush tips. If it's an electronic regulator set and you're -very-
lucky, the regulator may have survived and cleaning the slip
rings/brushes -may- be all that's needed.
If the output voltage of the genset is approx 120v and it won't
stay running, you may have a control board problem rather than a
voltage regulator problem.
I'll be glad to furnish detailed troubleshooting directions, but
I need to know the full model/spec of your genset (should be on
the fan housing, something like 4.0BGE-1R/26100F or similar).
Alan
Ray
genset runs for about 2 min (from Onan 4K manual)
Ray
"Stan Birch" <birc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3f08ff24...@news.netrover.com...
> Given the circumstances you describe, that it was running just fine
> before you ran out of fuel, I would tend to focus on what might have
> changed in the system, due to absence of fuel.
>
> My primary suspect would be the fuel filter. While there has been gas
> in the filter crud and varnish have been kept in solution. But when it
> dried out after being exposed to air for quite some time, the crud and
> varnish have solidified and plugged the filter with a hard coat of
> varnish. Might still be enough gas getting through to start the
> engine, but maybe there's not enough to get the gen up to speed.
>
> Sounds like a it's producing a *bit* of power when you hold the switch
> in, and it's still connected to the batteries; but perhaps it's not
> getting up to sufficient speed to produce enough of it's own DC
> voltage to take over from the battery.
>
> Bypass the fuel filter temporarily, and see what happens.
Doomaz
probably
> what is causing your problem.
It was off. Just the fan was on.
Doomaz
> power, ignoring the low oil pressure switch, and ignoring any
> 'stop' signal whether from local or remote switch.
That I've done. Same problem.
> I'll be glad to furnish detailed troubleshooting directions, but
> I need to know the full model/spec of your genset (should be on
> the fan housing, something like 4.0BGE-1R/26100F or similar).
4BGEFA26100F
Doomaz
"Stan Birch" <birc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3f08ff24...@news.netrover.com...
> Given the circumstances you describe, that it was running just fine
> before you ran out of fuel, I would tend to focus on what might have
> changed in the system, due to absence of fuel.
>
> My primary suspect would be the fuel filter.
It will run forever as long as the switch is held on so it's not a fuel
problem.
> varnish. Might still be enough gas getting through to start the
> engine, but maybe there's not enough to get the gen up to speed.
It's up to speed. Same speed as no load.
Doomaz
"Ray" <tang...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:679Oa.45165$n%5.2...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> Remove all loads (fridge, AC, etc) when starting. Only apply load after
> genset runs for about 2 min (from Onan 4K manual)
How does that fix my problem?
dssussb
temperature rise after turning the engine off is what kills the
electronic components.
The moment your genset stalled out the temperature began to rise. By
the time it took you to get the gas and attempt to re start the genset
you were well into the heat soak cycle and possibly subjecting your
electronic components to temperatures above their rated capacity, any
increase in temperature above a components rated capacity can cause
early component failure.
Your top dollar onan rv genset is only as reliable as its weakest link
and that spelled MADE IN CHINA. Onan used some cheap under rated MADE
IN CHINA electronic components in their design of the voltage
regulator.
Can you imagine all the unnecessary problems and expense rvers had,
that could have been avoided if onan would have used higher rated
American made electronic components?
I would strongly recommend that you install a thermostatically
controlled 12-volt automotive radiator fan on the rv door of the
generator compartment .So when you shut down the genset you will still
have cool air being forced through the unit cooling it down and
eliminating the heat soak problem.
"Doomaz" <Doo...@doomaz.com> wrote in message news:<Nq_Na.36156$n%5.4...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net>...
Doomaz
> >> My primary suspect would be the fuel filter.
>
> >It will run forever as long as the switch is held on so it's not a fuel
> >problem.
> >
> >> varnish. Might still be enough gas getting through to start the
> >> engine, but maybe there's not enough to get the gen up to speed.
> >
> >It's up to speed. Same speed as no load.
>
> load, then the fuel system may be okay. So the reason it quit
> initially, might not have anything to do with running out of gas; but
> some sort of electrical problem.
Exactly. Something blew. I have a hunch it is the voltage regulator but
that's just a hunch. Their schematics are pretty bad, at least compared to
what I usually see. Tech support at Funroads.com was of little help. They
said if it has oil, then take it to a tech to have it checked.
Doomaz
"dssussb" <dss...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cc304284.03070...@posting.google.com...
Chris Bryant
> Their schematics are pretty bad, at least compared to
>what I usually see.
You might invest in the service manual- it gives everything
you would need, including schematics for all the different spec.
numbers.
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
ChadMan
up and see if it generates while you are holding the start
button! No 110/120 then it won't stay started.
ChadMan
"Doomaz" <Doo...@doomaz.com> wrote in message
news:aAZNa.35800$n%5.7...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
Doomaz
"ChadMan" <chadh...@nospamcharter.net> wrote in message
news:vgk0o6j...@corp.supernews.com...
> Does it generate 110/120 at the outlet? Hook a drop light
> up and see if it generates while you are holding the start
> button! No 110/120 then it won't stay started.
I just pulled the control board. I'm taking it to work tomorrow where I have
a better set-up to test stuff. I already know that the start switch on the
board is bad as I've not been able to start it from the genset for 2 months.
While troubleshooting I've just been shorting out the pins on the board to
get it started. The board is in pretty bad shape but I don't have high hopes
that the problem is there but with the moisture damage I see on it, it s a
probability.
Doomaz
"Chris Bryant" <Bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:7sujgv4g1qh39b7ls...@4ax.com...
> Doomaz wrote:
>
> > Their schematics are pretty bad, at least compared to
> >what I usually see.
>
> You might invest in the service manual- it gives everything
> you would need, including schematics for all the different spec.
> numbers.
Any idea how much it costs? It might be worth it. I have the full manual for
the engine as a friend of mine has one in his skid-steer to run the
hydraulic pump.
Mike
Doomaz wrote:
> Any idea how much it costs?
http://www.funroads.com/onanstore/osNavGenset.jhtml?sku_type=Service%20Manual
Mike
Ben Hogland
> Can you imagine all the unnecessary problems and expense rvers had,
> that could have been avoided if onan would have used higher rated
> American made electronic components?
Most electronic components are made out of the US these days.. You'd be hard
pressed to find ANY circuit board made with all US semiconductor.. It's
simply not possible as most semiconductors are made out of the country. BTW,
many US companies also own manufacturing plants in other countries. The
company I work for owns a board house it China. That means, all standards of
manufacturing follow our SOPs and the company holds the same name. The only
difference? Labor rates not quality.
Ben
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.491 / Virus Database: 290 - Release Date: 6/19/2003
bro...@shaw.ca
perception has certainly changed in a matter of a few decades.
Myron
Alan Robinson
Ok - it's a spec F. Brief description of the genset functions,
then some troubleshooting info.
When starting the genset, 12v from the control board is
passed to the voltage regulator and then on through the brushes
and slip rings to the rotating field windings. This 'field flash'
produces an initial magnetic field in the rotor - as the rotor
moves past the stationary output windings, this magnetic field
produces approx 45v ac in the output windings while cranking, and
approx 80v once the genset is up to speed. A slightly higher
voltage is produced in the stationary 'quadrature' windings,
which are connected to the voltage regulator. The voltage
regulator uses power from the quadrature windings to increase the
voltage (and thus current) being fed through the brushes to the
rotating field, which increases the output voltage until the
genset output is up to a (nominal) 128v ac. The voltage regulator
then controls the field voltage as needed to hold the output
voltage constant. Once the output voltage has risen above approx
90-95 v, the output from the battery charge winding to the
control board is high enough to energize relay K2, and the
control board switches to 'run' mode (and, in the process,
disconnects the start solenoid, removes field flash from the
voltage regulator, and switches to 'generated' control voltage
rather than 'battery' control voltage).
Troubleshooting:
Disconnect the genset output from the coach and measure the
output voltage. If you see approx 120v, the problem is either the
battery charge winding, the choke heater element shorted, or a
bad control board or the wiring to it. (The choke heater element
is fed unrectified ac from the battery charge winding). Remove
the plastic cover from the choke and measure the ac voltage
between the two terminals - should be approx 20v. If it is, the
problem is the control board or wiring to it - if voltage is low
or nonexistent, problem may be shorted heater element, wiring
from charge winding, or bad charge winding.
If genset output is 45-80v ac, problem may be bad regulator,
bad output or quadrature windings, and/or poor connection to
rotating field due to tarnish buildup on slip rings. Pull air
cleaner and remove cover behind it in genset housing to access
brush block. Measure resistance from one brush lead to the
other - should be approx 25 ohms. If more than approx 35 ohms,
remove brush block, clean slip rings and brush tips, and retest.
If output voltage is still low, check voltage from quadrature
winding to voltage regulator (module mounted in bottom left of
control box) by back-probing pins 11 and 12 of the 12-pin
regulator connector - voltage should be approx the same as
measured at output. If it is, the voltage regulator is bad - if
quadrature winding output is low or nonexistent, check
connections/wiring - winding should measure approx 2 ohms
resistance.
If genset output is (almost) nonexistent ( less than 5v ac),
most probable would be no field flash from control board to
voltage regulator, bad connection from voltage regulator to
brushes, tarnished slip rings, shorted or open rotor windings, or
shorted output windings. Measure brush-brush resistance and
correct if necessary. Set meter to dc volts, hook positive meter
lead to right brush and negative to left brush, and check for
field flash - should be approx 11v dc while cranking. If not
present, hook negative meter lead to ground and back-probe voltge
regulator connector pin 7 while cranking. If you have voltage
here but not at brushes, either voltage regulator or wiring from
regulator to brushes is bad. If you don't have voltage at pin 7,
check for voltage at pin 5 of connector P1 on control board - if
not present here, problem is on control board.
This should at least get you started in the right direction.
If you need more info once you've checked the above, let me know.
Also, I can send you a scan of the schematic if you'll verify
your email address is valid.
Alan
Chris Bryant
<<..>>
>I just pulled the control board. I'm taking it to work tomorrow where I have
>a better set-up to test stuff. I already know that the start switch on the
>board is bad as I've not been able to start it from the genset for 2 months.
>While troubleshooting I've just been shorting out the pins on the board to
>get it started. The board is in pretty bad shape but I don't have high hopes
>that the problem is there but with the moisture damage I see on it, it s a
>probability.
>
http://www.flightsystems.com/ for a rebuilt or new board.
Kevin McDonough
"Ben Hogland" <benho...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bed3om$301ra$1...@ID-62937.news.dfncis.de...
Doomaz
of fuel.
I'd be using a lot of filters. It runs out of fuel almost every tank. That's
when I know it's time to get gas.
Lone Haranguer
Stan Birch wrote:
>
> >On Mon, 07 Jul 2003 11:09:47 GMT, "Doomaz" <Doo...@doomaz.com> wrote:
> >It's up to speed. Same speed as no load.
>
> I'd still replace the fuel filter as a matter of course after running out of fuel.
>
> You have two kinds of dirt that accumulates in your gas tank: the stuff that settles to
> the bottom of the tank; and the stuff that floats on top. When you run out of gas, the
> fuel intake to the spends a while skimming, and sucking up all the crud that's been
> floating on top. So it wouldn't be at all surprising that your fuel filter might have
> accumulated a lot of crud in the process.
My service manual says to replace the fuel filter every 15,000 miles.
Didn't you say you never replace yours unless necessary?
LZ
Mickey
wrote:
>>
> Depending on which board it is, you might check out
> http://www.flightsystems.com/ for a rebuilt or new board.
>
Nice to see someone else know about Flightsystems. Drop-in replacements
at much lower cost. Their designs are repairable. Been using one of their
designed v-regs for a yr now. Personally I think it does a better job than
the factory v-reg I replaced.
Mickey
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Lone Haranguer
Stan Birch wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 09:18:29 -0500, Lone Haranguer <lin...@direcway.com> wrote:
> >My service manual says to replace the fuel filter every 15,000 miles.
> >Didn't you say you never replace yours unless necessary?
> >LZ
>
> Your generator manual is different than mine. Mine doesn't mention
> mileage. :-)
You leave your generator at home when you travel?
I was looking up something concerning my chassis and when I saw the fuel
filter requirement I remembered that you don't change yours until it
stops working.
Does that affect your warranty if they find original equipment at 50,000
miles that was supposed to be changed at 15,000?
LZ
Doomaz
"Mickey" <mat...@canby.com> wrote in message
news:oprr1uux...@news.web-ster.com...
> On Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:46:45 -0400, Chris Bryant <Bryan...@cfl.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> >>
> > Depending on which board it is, you might check out
> > http://www.flightsystems.com/ for a rebuilt or new board.
> >
>
> Nice to see someone else know about Flightsystems. Drop-in replacements
> at much lower cost. Their designs are repairable. Been using one of
their
> designed v-regs for a yr now. Personally I think it does a better job
than
> the factory v-reg I replaced.
Unfortunately, a Flight Systems email today told me that they do not
manufacture a board for my Emerald I 4kw Onan.
Chris Bryant
<<..>>
>
>Unfortunately, a Flight Systems email today told me that they do not
>manufacture a board for my Emerald I 4kw Onan.
>
Doomaz
> Doomaz wrote:
> <<..>>
> >
> >Unfortunately, a Flight Systems email today told me that they do not
> >manufacture a board for my Emerald I 4kw Onan.
> >
> You might also check Dinosaur- they have Onan boards.
I'll do that. thanks.
ChadMan
300-???? You can always give us a call ;&)
ChadMan
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Chad for Dinosaur Electronics
See our website at:
http://DinosaurElectronics.com
For tech help call us at:
(541) 994-4344 8-5 M-F PST
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
---
"Doomaz" <Doo...@doomaz.com> wrote in message
news:BW1Pa.69739$n%5.5...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
Doomaz
> What's the number on the board Doomaz?
> 300-???? You can always give us a call ;&)
I was there already. All I could find is control boards for Onan. I didn't
see any voltage regulator boards. The board number is 305-0782-01 but I'm
told that a 305-0809-01 is the new number.
Doomaz
I found another place that sells Onan replacement boards (among others) too:
Their price for the board I probably will need is just a little higher than
Flightsystems.
Mickey
>
>
> Unfortunately, a Flight Systems email today told me that they do not
> manufacture a board for my Emerald I 4kw Onan.
>
>
>
Is that the v-reg or the control board? I also have an Emerald I and they
did offer a new v-reg. For the control board the Onan one is repairable
and FLight Systems does rebuild or at least they did last yr.
Doomaz
> > manufacture a board for my Emerald I 4kw Onan.
> >
> Is that the v-reg or the control board? I also have an Emerald I and they
> did offer a new v-reg. For the control board the Onan one is repairable
> and FLight Systems does rebuild or at least they did last yr.
It is the voltage regulator board. I wish it had been the control board as
anything on there is an easy fix.
My parts manual lists 305-0782-01 as the part number. Flight systems says
they do not have a replacement for that board.
I'm now told that 305-0809-01 is the new part number and looking at Flight
Systems' web page, they do have a replacement.
But since I did give Flight Systems my Onan model number and they couldn't
figure out that they actual do have the replacement, plus they must not know
how to cross-reference part numbers, I'll likely not be ordering from them.
If I do find I need the board, I'll probably be buying it from
partsfortechs.com.
Right now I'm in the process of cleaning the area of the brushes but it
started to rain so I didn't get any farther.
Lon VanOstran
<Doo...@doomaz.com> writes:
Excuse me for being blunt, but you deserve problems if you are that ignorant.
Never let a modern internal combustion engine run out of fuel, unless you do so
by shutting off the fuel pump.
Lon
Tom Marik
Hey, Lon! Where have you been?
Tom
Lon VanOstran
tmari...@aol.comnojunk (Tom Marik) writes:
We are in Northern Michigan. Gaylord at the moment, and have been out of cell
phone service. In downtown Gaylord there is a coffee shop with several Internet
connections at cable speed. As of Sunday, we are going farther North into the
UP, and will likely be missing until almost Labor Day.
Lon
Doomaz
a repairable one (The Onan replacement is non-repairable) from
www.partsfortechs.com and now all is well. I've been told by 3 different
sources that tarnished slip rings is the most likely cause for voltage
regulator board failure so I pulled the brush block and cleaned the slip
rings with a special stone made just for that purpose. Thanks to Alan
Robinson (who posts here) for the troubleshooting help.
Mickey
> OK. The resolve for this was that it was a Voltage regulator board. I
> bought
> a repairable one (The Onan replacement is non-repairable) from
> www.partsfortechs.com and now all is well. I've been told by 3 different
> sources that tarnished slip rings is the most likely cause for voltage
> regulator board failure so I pulled the brush block and cleaned the slip
> rings with a special stone made just for that purpose. Thanks to Alan
> Robinson (who posts here) for the troubleshooting help.
>
Took a look at the pic @ partsfortechs site and it looks like the V-reg
from Flight Systems I told you about several weeks ago. Mind saying what
the cost was?
Mickey
Doomaz
"Mickey" <mat...@web-ster.com> wrote in message
news:oprsrr5h...@news.web-ster.com...
I believe it was $193 and I paid $6 or $8 for UPS shipping to make sure I
got it the same week. I think Flightsystems was $190 but as I said before,
they weren't willing to help me out by cross-referencing my old part number
so I figured they really were not interested in my business.
krytl...@gmail.com
nothermark
>My generator stops when I let go of the on switch what could the problem be
Google is your friend. Manuals are on line.
Hank
> My generator stops when I let go of the on switch what could the problem be
Hank
dun...@gmail.com
7NHMFA26105D
SERIAL F933048301
Albert
https://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/5l9jh-onan-marquis-7000-will-start-run.html
Hope this helps?
prfso...@gmail.com
prfso...@gmail.com
pejarr...@gmail.com
Hank
Be advised I am not a generator repair person.
The first thing I would look at is the fuel shut off valve at the carb. If there is not power going to it, it will shut the fuel off. It is usually attached to the carb bowl. Your model may be different, or not even have one. The purpose of this valve is to shut fuel off instantly and it also keeps the engine from backfiring.
The next thing would be a safety switch is ground out.
Hope this helps.
Hank
Jerry Osage
>Hi Hank, I saw your email and thought perhaps you could help me too! My Onan 4000 Microquite does the same thing...only with a twist. When the technician has the voltage meeter probe inserted in Pins 9 & 10 or 11 and 12, it runs like a champ! If he removes the probe - the blasted thing quits. Any ideas?
>
tech say? Since you're asking here I assume your "Tech" was unable to
diagnose, and fix, the problem.
Do you have a wiring diagram? Can either you - or the tech read it? If so,
what does those pins 9,10,11, and 12 go to? What do they do? How was the
meter set? What was the tech testing for on those pins?
Does it have low oil? The low on oil sensor is by-passed when starting but
low oil or a bad sensor will stop the generator when the Start button is
released.
I'm trying not to be too snarky here, however, without more detailed
information I suggest that you take it to a Cummins/Onan repair center and
have it fixed. Or - buy the meter from the tech and leave it hooked up to
the pins.
--
Jerry O.
Hank
Hank
Frank Howell
> Onan 4000 Microquite
Low oil and incorrect voltage will also stop generator.
--
Frank Howell
Jerry Osage
likely did a Google search and your post popped up. He hasn't responded to
your post and probably won't. He probably won't even see it because he has
no idea how he found it in the first place.
I have always been short with people like this.
It never ceases to amaze me that people who can not define their problem
with any clarity, or depth, expects a Wizard with a magic bullet to solve
their problem. And, why not, - most of life is mystery and magic to them.
I need help - my car won't start - what should I do?
Walk.
Ha-ha-ha. I need to get my car started.
OK. What is it doing?
Nothing - it won't start!
OK, does the battery have any juice?
I don't know.
Turn on the headlights - are they bright?
Yes.
OK, turn them off.
Now, try to start the car, do you hear a clicking sound.?
No, the starter cranking the engine makes too much noise to hear a clicking
sound.
(At this point I realize that it is futile to go further. He knows even less
about engines, and their cycle of operation, than I know about brain
surgery.)
I think the engine's framel-stamel is likely bent and stuck open. You can't
fix it yourself, and I don't have the necessary tools. You need to call a
mechanic who will come out - or have it towed to the dealer.
Are you sure?
Yes, you called me for advise - and that is my advise.
Jerry O.
--
Ignorance is like alcohol: The more you have of it,
the less you are able to see its effect on you
Hank
Hank
Hank
Hank
Frank Howell
--
Frank Howell
Commie Hunter
George Anthony
The only low oil shut off "lowly" lawnmower engines have is when they
freeze up from lack of lubrication. I think I will bestow the title of
twins on you since the originals have tucked tail and run to their safe
space. You shall now be know as The Little Bobbie Twins.
--
"While we recognize that the subject did not actually steal any horses,
he is obviously guilty of trying to resist being hanged for it."
Commie Hunter
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/Low-Oil-Switch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AHJQ0xL7Bk
joel...@gmail.com
Like many other folks it only works if the button is held in.
I tried cleaning the slip rings and put new brushes in.
After doing that it ran ok the first time I tried it so I assumed it was fixed. But the next time I tried to get it to run the same old
problem returned.
Any advice? Could I have hurt the regulator board?
Any easy way to check it?
Thanks in advance.
Joel
joel...@gmail.com
George Anthony
would fix yours.
--
Trump has the liberals in a Russian Pretzel Hold and their only way out
would be to bite their own balls... if they had any.
Frank Howell
wise why would it work that one time?
--
Frank Howell
Hank
another mentioned low voltage output.
Things I would do...
Fuel pump, switch or wire? Mice chew wires.
Unplug remote starter switch to see if that makes a difference.
Hank
George Anthony
Chicken George
Chicken George
cinc...@cox.net
When I release the start button, it kills. Need help!
Hank not George
> Onan5500 MarquisGold. Gen starts fine.
> When I release the start button, it kills. Need help!
Hank
Jerry Osage
>Onan5500 MarquisGold. Gen starts fine.
> When I release the start button, it kills. Need help!
>
When it is running and producing AC a part of the AC is rectified and holds
the run relay closed and you can release the "Start" button.
Try Here for more info.
<http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/dsimmons/onan/onan.html#start-circuit-schematic>
--
Jerry O.
George Anthony
> Onan5500 MarquisGold. Gen starts fine.
> When I release the start button, it kills. Need help!
>
--
A rising tide lifts all boats... even democrat boats.
meah...@juno.com
> In article <_5TOa.51289$JY1....@nwrddc01.gnilink.net>, "Doomaz"
> <Doo...@doomaz.com> writes:
>
> >> I'd still replace the fuel filter as a matter of course after running out
> >of fuel.
> >
> >I'd be using a lot of filters. It runs out of fuel almost every tank. That's
> >when I know it's time to get gas.
>
> Excuse me for being blunt, but you deserve problems if you are that ignorant.
> Never let a modern internal combustion engine run out of fuel, unless you do so
> by shutting off the fuel pump.
>
> Lon
the dip tube for gen fuel only fall 75% to bottom of tank so you cannot run tank dry on gen! no chanch of picking up dirt! you are the ignorant one! a;so maybe retarded!
George Anthony
Vito M
I pulled my coach out of storage this spring and my onan is suffering from the dreaded "only runs with the start switch depressed." The unit is a 6.5NHEFA11579P S/N:E000099421.
I have checked oil and bypassed oil switch by connecting to ground, I have voltage to brushes while cranking, 25ohms between brushes. It did not appear to be producing VAC while cranking (but I may have had the breaker turned off now that I'm thinking about it.)
I've noticed the wealth of knowledge in this conversation and am asking for some guidance as to what steps to take next.
Thank you in advance!
Technobarbarian
discussion in 2002.
TB
Vito M
Hank
Jerry Osage
had the same problem. I have no idea where I got this guide, however it is
at least 15 years old. I don't remember my model # but it was an Emerald
6.5. It had a defective regulator.
You may have already tried this - but it is all I have.
~~~
The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep
running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control
board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not
producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present.
See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for
your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as
the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under
CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running.
Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC
voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH
pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not
present, the control board is defective.
If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be
defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH
pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is
good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be
the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and
measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator's mating
plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high,
check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a
similar tool).
If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check
the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very
high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these
readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off
the generator's AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12
volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug while attempting to
start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you
do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after
the engine starts.
If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the
generator is OK and the regulator is defective.
If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC
voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective.
If no AC voltage is produced re-check all wiring for security and signs of
damage. If everything seems OK it may be necessary to take the unit to a
qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. If the
voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the
switch is not closing.
These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or
exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil
pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily
jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at
the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board.
Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING
have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be
closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the
governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control
board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the
engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch
locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the
correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of
the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board
is defective.
~~~
I hope this helps.
--
Jerry O.
Jerry Osage
wrote:
grounded - and - some are No Pressure = open.
--
Jerry O.