swingarm bearing removal
John Dwyer
actually it is just the outer race. the rest of the bearing seems to
be MIA. anyway, i've tried pounding them out with a socket, then i
tried heating the pivot in an oven, then pounding it out. then i
tried soaking the pivot in oil overnight, then pounding it out. they
are stuck. is there anything else to try before going to the shop and
getting them to press them out? also, how much will it cost to press
them out?
thanks
john
92 cr250
Kula
John Dwyer <jdwyer1**@gl.umbc.edu> wrote in message
news:37bef2b9....@news.umbc.edu...
I don't think you have any alternatives than the shop. I tried taking mine
out of an KLX 250 and they wouldn't budge either. It's been a while but i
think i paid around 100 bucks to get them out (they had to drill them out).
at the time it seemed to be pretty expensive but all in all it saved me a
lot of work and a swingarm if i happened to bend it. I also had them put
the new bearings in, u could do it your self if u wanted but i figured it
would just be easier if they did it right there and get them put in right.
If u haven't already bought the bearings there not cheap either. I think i
paid about $40 a side (that's Kawasaki for ya). Well i hope i'm some help
for you.
jason
Scott F
first:
To state the obvious, work on one side at a time.
Get a socket slightly smaller than the bearing OD, to fit in the swingarm.
Get another socket big enough to support the swingarm, and so the bearing
can fall into it.
Measure across the sockets, add 1/2" or more, and buy a grade 8 fine pitch
bolt and nut, and a bunch of washers.
Put the bolt through the sockets. Use 2-3 washers on each side.
Tighten the bolt, which will push out the bearing(s). If you run out of
thread, add another socket or some washers.
You can use a heat gun on the swingarm to ease extraction.
You can use a similar process to install your new bearings. Freezing your
new bearings may help a bit. Don't forget to measure the distance from
the old bearings to the edge of the swingarm so you know how far to push
the new ones in.
Good luck,
Scott F
Peter Patton
crankcase bearings. Worked like a charm. If you have to go to the shop,
just take in the part you need the bearings removed from and sneak it in
the shop's back door and ask one of the mechanics if he will do it for you
real quick. A welding shop is another option........probably cheaper too.
Peter
John Dwyer wrote:
> i can't get the main needle bearings out of my 92 cr250's swingarm.
> actually it is just the outer race. the rest of the bearing seems to
> be MIA. anyway, i've tried pounding them out with a socket, then i
> tried heating the pivot in an oven, then pounding it out. then i
> tried soaking the pivot in oil overnight, then pounding it out. they
> are stuck. is there anything else to try before going to the shop and
> getting them to press them out? also, how much will it cost to press
> them out?
>
> thanks
> john
> 92 cr250
--
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/motoppl/public_html/index.html
mot...@mn.mediaone.net
Motocross Rules!!!
Peter 3 # 524
Peter # 739
Peter Patton
Patent it!!
Peter
Scott F wrote:
> Properly setting up your swingarm in a press might be tricky. Try this
> first:
>
> To state the obvious, work on one side at a time.
> Get a socket slightly smaller than the bearing OD, to fit in the swingarm.
>
> Get another socket big enough to support the swingarm, and so the bearing
> can fall into it.
> Measure across the sockets, add 1/2" or more, and buy a grade 8 fine pitch
> bolt and nut, and a bunch of washers.
> Put the bolt through the sockets. Use 2-3 washers on each side.
> Tighten the bolt, which will push out the bearing(s). If you run out of
> thread, add another socket or some washers.
> You can use a heat gun on the swingarm to ease extraction.
>
> You can use a similar process to install your new bearings. Freezing your
> new bearings may help a bit. Don't forget to measure the distance from
> the old bearings to the edge of the swingarm so you know how far to push
> the new ones in.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Scott F
>
Peter Patton
bike too much...........or if you do, be prepared to regrease your bearings
more often.
Peter
Kula wrote:
> John Dwyer <jdwyer1**@gl.umbc.edu> wrote in message
> news:37bef2b9....@news.umbc.edu...
> > i can't get the main needle bearings out of my 92 cr250's swingarm.
> > actually it is just the outer race. the rest of the bearing seems to
> > be MIA. anyway, i've tried pounding them out with a socket, then i
> > tried heating the pivot in an oven, then pounding it out. then i
> > tried soaking the pivot in oil overnight, then pounding it out. they
> > are stuck. is there anything else to try before going to the shop and
> > getting them to press them out? also, how much will it cost to press
> > them out?
> >
> > thanks
> > john
> > 92 cr250
>
> I don't think you have any alternatives than the shop. I tried taking mine
> out of an KLX 250 and they wouldn't budge either. It's been a while but i
> think i paid around 100 bucks to get them out (they had to drill them out).
> at the time it seemed to be pretty expensive but all in all it saved me a
> lot of work and a swingarm if i happened to bend it. I also had them put
> the new bearings in, u could do it your self if u wanted but i figured it
> would just be easier if they did it right there and get them put in right.
> If u haven't already bought the bearings there not cheap either. I think i
> paid about $40 a side (that's Kawasaki for ya). Well i hope i'm some help
> for you.
>
> jason
--
KToM
"press", I give the bearing/swingarm mating area a shot of penetrating oil,
then heat it and once again give it another shot.
Have cursed alot but have always gottem' out.
Tom
Hoyt McKagen
> To state the obvious, work on one side at a time.
> Get a socket slightly smaller than the bearing OD, to fit in the swingarm.
>
> Get another socket big enough to support the swingarm, and so the bearing
> can fall into it.
> Measure across the sockets, add 1/2" or more, and buy a grade 8 fine pitch
> bolt and nut, and a bunch of washers.
> Put the bolt through the sockets. Use 2-3 washers on each side.
> Tighten the bolt, which will push out the bearing(s).
It won't work, know why? Because there is no way to get a device behind
one bng to pull on it w/o passing it through the bng on the other side.
And if it will pull from inside, it won't go inside to pull.
There's only one way: use a drift and pound them. If that doesn't work
and it hasn't for me several times, then the trick I use is to heat a
spot of the race from inside and pry the rim of bng to collapse it.
Oxy-acet will produce a red spot which you can pry on in a very few
seconds, and you MUST be careful not to heat the SA nose too much. You
can progesss from out to in, heating and prying, til you get across the
entire race.
If you don't like this, you'll have to find a Dremel or other high-speed
grinder and make a slot all the way across the race.
When you do get them out, hone the SA nose with a brake hone, and DON'T
install stock bngs again. Use a precision bushing in bronze. These last
longer, are more precise, are immune to water and stand up to dirt much
better, and you will have handling improvements. Works for me and I've
done hundreds of them. See the Swingarms and clamps page of Best MC site,
URL in tagline, for more details.
Best wishes,
Hoyt McKagen
Belfab CNC - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/belfab/belfab.html
Best MC Repair - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/best.html
Camping/Caving - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/caving.html
Rubber balloons kill more young kids than ALL other toys
Scott Wilson
> i can't get the main needle bearings out of my 92 cr250's swingarm.
> actually it is just the outer race. the rest of the bearing seems to
> be MIA. anyway, i've tried pounding them out with a socket, then i
> tried heating the pivot in an oven, then pounding it out. then i
> tried soaking the pivot in oil overnight, then pounding it out. they
> are stuck. is there anything else to try before going to the shop and
> getting them to press them out? also, how much will it cost to press
> them out?
>
> thanks
> john
> 92 cr250
I've had to Dremel grind through the race to get those suckers out. It's
because of the dissimilar metals issue. Good luck. Use anti-seize on the
bearings you replace.
--
Scott C Wilson (Carolina's)
1995 KTM 300 E/XC
1983 SUZ 500 RM
Scott Wilson
> Properly setting up your swingarm in a press might be tricky. Try this
> first:
>
> To state the obvious, work on one side at a time.
> Get a socket slightly smaller than the bearing OD, to fit in the swingarm.
>
> Get another socket big enough to support the swingarm, and so the bearing
> can fall into it.
> Measure across the sockets, add 1/2" or more, and buy a grade 8 fine pitch
> bolt and nut, and a bunch of washers.
> Put the bolt through the sockets. Use 2-3 washers on each side.
> Tighten the bolt, which will push out the bearing(s). If you run out of
> thread, add another socket or some washers.
> You can use a heat gun on the swingarm to ease extraction.
>
> You can use a similar process to install your new bearings. Freezing your
> new bearings may help a bit. Don't forget to measure the distance from
> the old bearings to the edge of the swingarm so you know how far to push
> the new ones in.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Scott F
>
> John Dwyer wrote:
>
> > i can't get the main needle bearings out of my 92 cr250's swingarm.
> > actually it is just the outer race. the rest of the bearing seems to
> > be MIA. anyway, i've tried pounding them out with a socket, then i
> > tried heating the pivot in an oven, then pounding it out. then i
> > tried soaking the pivot in oil overnight, then pounding it out. they
> > are stuck. is there anything else to try before going to the shop and
> > getting them to press them out? also, how much will it cost to press
> > them out?
> >
> > thanks
> > john
> > 92 cr250
I use treaded rod and the rod couplings that go with it. That way I always
have more thread. The couplings are standard thread pitch but are 4+ times as
much thread contact as a regular nut. If the bearing still won't budge give
it a good whack with the puller in the press (stress) position.
Irondog
> one bng to pull on it w/o passing it through the bng on the other side.
> And if it will pull from inside, it won't go inside to pull.
other side has nothing to do with removal of bearing on the opposite side.
> There's only one way: use a drift and pound them.
If there is only one way to way, it has to be a hydraulic press.
IRONDOG
Hoyt McKagen
> Won't work? There's no way for it NOT to work. Do one side at a time, the
> other side has nothing to do with removal of bearing on the opposite side.
Simple enough if you're only doing one, but you forgot to focus on the
fact that you have to start with not one but two bngs in place.
Did you read his description? He wants you to put the smaller socket
inside the SA, so it rests on the inside of the bng on the side you're
attacking. Then you pull this bng out into the larger socket resting
outside. Now, you tell me: is there a way to get a socket inside, between
both bngs, that is still big enough to rest on the inner side of the one
you're pulling?
You can do this in principle, but the inner socket must be replaced with
an oval piece of metal with hole in middle, that will slide in sideways
and then turn flat and engage the bng on the ends. But that isn't what he
said.
> If there is only one way to way, it has to be a hydraulic press.
The problem is the same. I guess you've never pressed out SA bngs? How do
you get a press tool to fit through one bng, that will rest on the inner
edge of the other? I guess you'll tell me to cock the arrangement a bit
so you can press on one portion of circumference. I seriously doubt
you've ever put a lot of force on something in a press while it's cocked,
or you would know this is one of the more common ways to have work shoot
out and smack you in the head. The oval piece of metal trick would work
again, of course.
John Dwyer
the deed is done. i used a dremel-type tool, ("the Wizard") with a
cut off disk to cut a zig-zag through the outer race. the bearing
could then flex in and be removed. the bike is back together and i
love the tight feeling in the rear....of the bike.
thanks for all the suggestions.
On Sat, 21 Aug 1999 18:44:15 GMT, jdwyer1**@gl.umbc.edu (John Dwyer)
Scott F
It's not that hard. And I do use WD-40 on the aluminum bore to ease 'em out. I
press them in one at a time, to the proper depth.
Scott F
Hoyt McKagen
>
> Fellows, I guess I forgot to mention that I press out both bearings at once.
> It's not that hard.
Let's see ... you set it up in the press and just push the top one all
the way through, collecting the bottom one as you go?
I doubt it. You may be thinking of SA which have no shoulders inside of
the bngs ... I've never seen a SA that didn't have shoulders inside of
the bngs and I've seen hundreds of them. The mfgrs don't machine all the
way through because it's un-necessary and it's expensive. All that's not
to say none of them do, I just don't have the expereince of seeing
any. Would you tell us how you can push a bng past a shoulder like
that? Or will you tell us which SA you've done this to that didn't have
shoulders?
Irondog
Hoyt McKagen wrote:
> Let's see ... you set it up in the press and just push the top one all
> the way through, collecting the bottom one as you go?
> I doubt it. You may be thinking of SA which have no shoulders inside of
> the bngs ... I've never seen a SA that didn't have shoulders inside of
> the bngs and I've seen hundreds of them.
Hoyt- Most modern dirt bikes incorporate the rear engine mount into the
swing-arm pivot area- the swing arm bolt passes through both the arm and the
engine. Swing arm bearings are in an area only a couple of inches wide on
each side of the engine. There are no shoulders needed to locate the
bearing, as the bearing is easily accessible and can be pushed or pulled to
the location needed in the short 2.5 to 3 inch long section of swing-arm
pivot area . I am sure most Jap motocross machines have been made this way
from at least 1980, I'll bet the European stuff is the same way. IRONDOG
djo...@cyberhighway.nospam.net
wrote:
>
>Hoyt McKagen wrote:
>> Let's see ... you set it up in the press and just push the top one all
<snip>
> and I've seen hundreds of them.
>
>Hoyt- Most modern dirt bikes incorporate the rear engine mount into the
>swing-arm pivot area- the swing arm bolt passes through both the arm and the
>engine.
Uh oh Hoyt, I think you just got called an Old Fart in an underhanded
way, don't despair, embrace it.....
> IRONDOG
David - 99 KTM 200EXC
Email: djo...@cyberhighway.net
Home of the "The Very Unofficial RMD Page"
http://www.cyberhighway.net/~djones/
Hoyt McKagen
> Uh oh Hoyt, I think you just got called an Old Fart in an underhanded
> way, don't despair, embrace it..
Works for me. As far as I can tell the OFs are just faster, more skillful
versions of the YFs ... I had a couple modern DB with split SA noses,
just didn't think of that style even though in fact I've even *built*
them in that pattern too.