Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 01/20 (Contents, where to find FAQ: 15K)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part01
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part01
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 8 March 1997
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 01) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The set of FAQs is, quite frankly, oriented toward access using a
"World Wide Web Browser" (e.g, Netscape, Mosaic, Internet Explorer,
etc.); reading it with such a tool you'll find "links" to other sites
of interest.
{ A note about the addresses presented. When I show:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
...that is interpreted as:
http:// www.seaways.com /faq/faqind.html
^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| | |_ the path to the file
| |__ the Internet address
|___ the method - in this case, HTTP
....these are shown in this way so that people viewing this FAQ
using a World Wide Web browser -such as Netscape or Mosaic- can
simply click on these addresses to go there.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
}
Disclaimer: My personal experience is with traditional, static wooden
ship models. Thus the answers below lean toward that aspect. PLEASE
feel free to provide me with information on other aspects (e.g.,
plastic ship models, etc.).
NOTE: New material each month is flagged with the string "*NEW*".
CONTENTS
========
(FAQ Part 01):
Table of Contents
0. Where is the FAQ?
Contributers
(FAQ Part 02):
PREPARATION
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
2. Where do I get started in making rc model boats?
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
4. Whats the difference between "bread-and-butter", plank-on-
bulkhead, and plank-on-frame construction?
5. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
6. What experience have other modelers had with the European kits?
7. What tools do I need to get started?
(FAQ Part 03):
8. What scale should I use?
9. How does one change the scale of plans?
10. What woods are recommended?
11. Is CA glue reliable?
THE HULL
12. How do I scratch-build a modern hull?
(FAQ Part 04):
13. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
14. How do I use paper templates to check the hull shape?
15. How do I cutting the bevel(s) on a bulkhead/frame of a model?
16. What is accurizing?
17. How do I Clean up Ship Decks?
(FAQ Part 05):
18. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
DETAILS
19. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper for plating a model?
20. How is the copper applied?
21. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
(FAQ Part 06):
22. Has anybody got a recipe for chemical blackener? (To blacken
brass and other metals)
23. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows?
24. How does one work with "real" scale rivets?
25. What is "lead sickness"?
PAINTING
26. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
27. What colors are appropriate for 16th-17th century ships?
28. I painted the (Cutty Sark) hull and found that the Testors paint
is difficult to use and not see brushmarks. Any advice?
(FAQ Part 07):
29. Am modeling a Fletcher and need up to date colors etc.?
30. What colors to use on the Revell(?) PT-109?
31. What are the correct USN Camouflage Measures?
32. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
33. How do I translate Tamiya color numbers to Model Master #?
34. How do I make a realistic calm sea for a scene?
35. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals?
(FAQ Part 08):
RIGGING
36. What can be used for fine rigging line?
37. How does one assemble rigging?
38. How do I install ratlines?
39. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud?
40. Why do I have more lines than points to belay them to?
41. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
42. How do I eliminate the fuzz on model rigging?
43. How do I build small blocks for model sailing ships?
44. What do I use for sails?
(FAQ Part 09):
45. What is the best material for sails?
OTHER STUFF...
46. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
47. How do I clean a model?
48. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
49. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
50. I'am looking for info or suggestings on model subs?
(FAQ Part 10):
51. Why do {your choice} cost so much?
52. How big should a case be?
53. When should I use "English" or "Metric" measurements?
54. What are diagonals used for?
(FAQ Part 11):
55. How do I carve a solid (or bread and butter) hull?
56. How do I make a "diorama"?
57. I hear reports of problems with some of the "resin" kits?
58. What are the proper colors for British Ensigns? Were the
Ensigns of british ships really as big as they appear in kits?
59. How do I work with resin kits?
(FAQ Part 12):
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
(FAQ Part 13 & 14):
(FAQ Part 13):
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
101-C. TOOLS
(FAQ Part 14):
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS,
CONSERVERS
(FAQ Parts 15 & 16):
(FAQ Part 15):
102. Where can I find information... ?
102-A: BOOK COMPANIES
102-B. MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
(FAQ Part 16):
102-C. PLANS
102-D. SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
102-E. GENERAL
102-F. INSTITUTIONS
Ship Plans
Records
Photos and Prints
Historical Data
Interlibrary Loan
Individual Ships/Ship Types
Outside of U.S.A.
(FAQ Part 17):
103. What are some good books... ?
(FAQ Part 18):
104. What's available on the Internet?
(FAQ Parts 19 & 20):
105. What's available on the WWW?
General
FAQs On-line
Lists of Links to Other Sites
Model Boating & Clubs
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
Books and Book Shops
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
Miscellaneous
Sailing Ships
"Steam" Ships
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
Research Ships
Government / Military
(The latter six questions have disjoint numbering so I won't have to
renumber frequently.)
###############################################
0. Where is the FAQ?
A: The FAQ is posted at the beginning of every other month. It
goes to:
news:rec.models.scale.
The FAQs also go to
news:news.answers and news:rec.answers ,
which most sites tend to keep around for a while. They are
archived at (access via FTP):
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-or at-
ftp://ftp.seas.gwu.edu/pub/rtfm/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ship-models-faq/
Alternative FTP sites (these tend to be old copies) are:
Europe: ftp://ftp.uni-paderborn.de/pub/FAQ/rec.models.scale
ftp://ftp.Germany.EU.net/pub/newsarchive/news.answers/ship-models-faq
ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale
ftp://ftp.hk.super.net/mirror/faqs/ship-models-faq/
ftp://ftp.cdrom.com/pub/internet/faqs/ship-models-faq/
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.cs.ruu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/ship-models-faq/.html
http://gopher.nectec.or.th/pub/mirrors/faq/ship-models-faq
http://www.hensa.ac.uk/ftp/mirrors/uunet/archive/usenet/news.answers/ship-mo
dels-faq
http://www.pasteur.fr/other/computer/FAQ/ship-models-faq/ghindex.html
http://vogelweide.fmi.uni-passau.de/archive/faq/rec.answers/ship-models-faq
http://www.lib.ox.ac.uk/internet/news/faq/by_category.ship-models-faq.html
Asia: ftp://ftp.hk.super.net/mirror/faqs/ship-models-faq
ftp://hwarang.postech.ac.kr/pub/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq/
E-MAIL:
------
If you do not have http or anonymous ftp access, RTFM.MIT.EDU can send
the FAQ to you via email. Send e-mail to:
mailto:MAIL-...@RTFM.MIT.EDU
...subject ignored, and the body containing:
HELP
...for instructions.
CONTRIBUTERS
============
The following people have contributed to this FAQ:
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John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part02
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part02
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 02) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
PREPARATION
===========
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
A: First of all, "Patience is that attribute required to do
something you DON'T WANT TO DO!"...if you don't want to build
a model, no one will (or CAN) force you to.
However, there are a number of thing you can do to make it more
likely that your patience will be sustained for the duration of
the project:
o Have some idea what you're doing. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS (if
it's a kit). If you don't understand (and many instructions
are "opaque"), ASK someone (see the list of ship Modeling
Clubs, or ask here)!
o If you've never built a (ship) model before, start with a
SIMPLE one (see 3., below). That will help insure that
you'll finish in a reasonable amount of time, and will help
you understand the terminology (i.e., what you call the
"pointy end of the boat", and all those "sticks" and
"string").
o Build yourself a "kit". Most people start with the hull,
which is typically ~10% of the work/time required, and ~90%
of the visual effect (more than once, I've been asked by a
visitor if I've done anything to a model since they've last
seen it (6 months earlier), because I've spent the 6 months
adding details that you have to LOOK for). Instead, BUILD
SUB-ASSEMBLIES FIRST (e.g., the anchor, ship's boats,
cannon/carriages, etc.) -- these can be added to a row of
parts marching across the "mantlepiece"; every time you
look at them you see you're making progress. When you're
done, THEN assemble them into the model.
o Contact other modelers (even if not ship modelers). Even if
they are not doing the same thing you are, being able to ask
a person questions, and explaining your "tricks" is a
stimulus to get your interest up again. (John Kopf)
2. I'm interested in starting to make rc model boats and was
wondering if anyone could help me with some info about a good
starter project or perhaps a good beginners book I could use
to get going with?
A: There are several but the best advice I could provide would be
to post this question in news:rec.models.rc (that news group is
being superceeded by news:rec.models.rc.water, but is not
carried yet at all sites) where there are a bunch of RC boat
guys. (Larry Marshall)
***I can suggest several sources but first a couple of
questions:
o What sort of subject matter interests you? Tugs, Warships,
Ocean Liners, Race boats, etc.
o What sort of price range can you afford?
o How long do you want to spend building the project?
o What is your level of experience in other modeling areas?
If you can answer these I will try to steer you in the best
direction I can. (Kurt Greiner)
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
A: The following Wooden Ship Models are often recommended:
Bluejacket: "We're Here"
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Schooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, Pinky
Note that this list does NOT contain any of the popular
European kits - these suffer from poor instructions and plans,
inadequate research, and excessive complexity for a beginner;
only a small fraction of the kits sold are ever completed.
(John Kopf)
***Most modelers enter the hobby from plastic kits. (They
migrate to sailing ships from plastic a/c or modern ships). To
many, the jump from plastic non-sailing ships to a wooden
sailing ship is too big. They become intimidated.
Some good plastic kits do exist, that are suitable as beginner
kits. These include the Heller 1:75 NINA and PINTA. (Little
jewels, although some filling is required. Also, I suspect
they are really 1:90 -- compare the hulls to the 1:100 plans in
Pastor's "Ships of Chistopher Columbus"). Don't waste time on
the Revell Columbus ships. They are useful for fittings, but
of much lower quality than the Heller kits.
Another possiblity is the Airfix 1:72 "Golden Hind." This has
more complex rigging, but simpler than say, the Revell 1:96
Constitution. If you do not mind using stretched sprue, the
Airfix "Great Western" is fun, too. The sail plan is simplified
because it is a paddle steamer, but there is enough to be fun.
I would recommend that only to an experience plastic modeler
who is a neophyte in sailing ships.
An advantage to plastic kits is that you rig them just like
the wooden kits. Rigging tends to be the biggest challenge in
a sailing ship model. Get comfortable with rigging, and going
to wood doesn't seem so scary. (Mark Lardas)
***A good point...If you're unfamiliar with ships (either
sailing OR power), an inexpensive plastic model will help you
recognize the various parts of the ships, and help begin to
familiarize you with some of the problems you'll encounter (such
as few straight lines, flat surfaces, and the need to review the
plans and instructions before you "paint your self into a corner"
by installing one part that blocks the installation of a second
part. (John Kopf)
***I recommend you obtain a wood ship model kit that comes with
an instruction book which describes the DETAILS of the prototype
vessel, or vessels of the very type you are modelling. In other
words, the plans and general instructions rarely give a novice
enough information on what the rigging details look like, or
how to reproduce them in scale.
Start out with a fishing vessel which has one or two masts,
and is not square-rigged. I have a modest library of ship
model books from the 1970s, but none of them is likely to be
of a lot of help in completing a particular model, so I won't
recommend any.
Bear in mind that experienced ship modellers often junk the
wood strips supplied in the kit and replace it with strips sawn
from very hard, fine-grained wood like maple, apple, pearwood
and boxwood.
Good quality woodworking tools tend to be lot more costly than
the tools required for plastic kits. (Septimus)
4. Whats the difference between "bread-and-butter", plank-on-
bulkhead, and plank-on-frame construction?
A: In bread-and-butter ("B&B"), successive "slices" (sawn out of
planks) of the hull (either parallel to the keel or to the
waterline) are stacked and then carved to final shape, using
templates (see Question 11 about use of templates). The
individual planks are frequently "hollowed" so that the
resulting hull is only a thick shell of wood -- this make the
hull lighter, and helps prevent cracking which might result
from a solid hull.
Plank-on-bulkhead ("POB") uses cross-wise slices of the hull
to shape "bulkheads", which are fastened to a "backbone" with
the profile of the hull; these are normally made from plywood
and are common in the European kits.
Plank-on-frame ("POF") models actual "frames", fastened to the
keel.
The latter two methods are then planked (although nothing
prevents one from planking a bread-and-butter hull). Both
methods require beveling the surfaces of the bulkheads or
frames (see Question 12 about beveling).
POB models have excessive spacing of the bulkheads to support
the planking; these are normally double-planked, so that the
first layer of planks (the "learning layer") can be sanded fair
to produce a smooth surface for the second layer (the "finish
layer"). Unfortunately, the bulkheads are often so far apart
that the planks "sag" between fastening points -- many modelers
get around this by filling in the surface between the bulkheads
with some soft wood (balsa is fine for this) and sanding this
to the shape of the hull before planking...this essentially
results in a more-or-less solid hull (like B&B, with the
bulkheads serving as built-in templates).
One side advantage of POF is that the fastenings ("trunnels")
of the planks are properly located and have a solid backing to
connect to. (John Kopf)
***I guess "plank on frame" in a strict sense would imply that
the ship is built with a hollow set of frames as opposed to a
set of massive plywood-style bulkheads, as you say. However, it
is commonly referred to as plank-on-frame whether you use
massive bulkheads or proper frames.
Proper plank-on-frame could be used if you wanted a complete
interior in the ship, or at least on the gun-decks. This is
rather hard to do with massive bulkheads. Also, I am convinced
that adding a complete internal structure with deck-beams et al
will make it easier to get the outside right - you will have
far more references to the placing of wales, gun-ports etc
(always assuming that the internal structure is put in the
right places :) It has certainly been a problem with my massive-
bulkhead Neptunus, 80.
I haven't tried building proper plank-on-frame myself, but
from what I gather it a) is a lot more work than plank-on-
bulkhead (all those frames to build and put in place), and b)
makes for a better hull shape and a more solid model. Think
about it - you would be defining the hull shape for each and
every frame, instead of just at the bulkheads, and the external
planking will be supported by an almost continuous array of
frames instead of just the occasional bulkhead.
(Staale Sannerud)
***Most of the plank-on-frame models I have seen omit the
planking on the lower hull, in order to show the detail of the
keel and futtocks and all that. I suppose you could do a fully
planked plank-on-frame model just for your own satisfaction,
but there would be little other point.
As I understand it, the actual planking process is a little
easier, because there is more material underneath the planks to
support them. However, this is more than outweighed by the
extra time and effort (not to mention material) necessary to
accurately model the frames. Unless you want to demonstrate
the construction of the original ship, you might as well go
plank-on-bulkhead. (David C Graf)
***Look at it this way. A 200' ship might have only 10
bulkheads, but 100 frames. If you were doing an admiralty
model, you would want to show all of the frames, so any
planking would be plank on frame. If you are building what
would be considered a completely finished hull, then you are
depending on the bulkheads ( as defined in the ship's lines)
to give you the hull shape.
Here is a tip for you, if you fill in the space between the
bulkheads with pieces of balsa wood, and sand them down to the
ship's lines, you have the equivalent of a solid hull to plank.
(Thomas Burkman Sr.)
***Why would anyone plank a model anyway? By that, I mean
after the hull is planked you cannot see bulkheads either.
There are at least two reasons for plank on frame that I am
aware of. One, that's the way a real ship is made, so I want
to do it that way. Two, maybe I am going to put in some
internal detail, leave hatches uncovered, etc., and don't want
to have bulkheads visible (that were not there on prototype).
With large warships this internal detail might be the guns, and
the interior is clearly visible through open ports.
I might point out that there are a number of hybrids that are
neither fish nor fowl. Some POB kits feature the bulkheads cut
back to look like frames starting at the lower gundeck.
It is also possible to build a hybrid with a solid hull up to
the lower gundeck, with frames above that, this whole structure
then planked. In this case, of course, the hull is smaller by
the dimension of the thickness of the planks from what it would
be if it were a carved hull not planked over. (Don Stauffer)
***A scale plank-on-frame model is the highest expression of
the wood modelmaker's art: The keel, stem, sternpost, frames
and ALL hull timbers are accurate scale reproductions of the
prototype vessel. In some British "Admiralty" models, the
planking was purposely left incomplete to allow the viewer to
examine the hull timbers. (Septimus)
5. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
A: This is a good question and difficult to answer. As a designer
for Model Shipways, I do not always agree with the final
category which appears in the catalog. There is naturally an
effort to categorize a model at intermediate or beginner
level - more sales! The recent Pride of Baltimore II kit was
desired as a beginners kit, I felt it an advanced kit, so we
wound up compromising at intermediate level. Here are some of
my thoughts as a designer and model builder:
Beginners -
Solid wood hull is often difficult to shape properly and it
takes some skill to fit templates and carve correctly. It would
then be an intermediate skill. However, many solid hull models
can be completed by the beginner simply by sanding it without
regard to total accuracy. Consequently, on the smaller models
with a solid hull the beginner can handle it. So, the beginner
should know something about sanding wood, and at least have the
skill to do some "pocket knife" carving.
The beginner should have some basic understanding of a ship,
knowing a deck from a mast and be able to read the plans and
instructions. If the model has rigging, the beginner should be
able to at least tie a knot to fake a seizing.
Since most models are painted, the beginner should have done
some painting with brushes and know how to make reasonably
smooth brush strokes. The beginner also needs to know a little
something about gluing parts together with white glue.
The beginner should possess the ability to stick with the
project a reasonable length of time, understanding that it
cannot be built in a hurry, and understand that a wooden model
will take a longer time and require more part making than say
compared with a plastic model where the parts are basically
complete.
Intermediate-
For solid hulls, the modeler should be able to use gouges and
chisels for removing wood and have the patience to work longer
on a large hull. For the POB hulls, the modeler should have
the skill to use a hobby knife and saw and cut parts accurately
to lines. Cutting bevels on the bulkheads and tapering planking
is important, and use of the tools is essential.
Intermediate models start to have many small parts for deck
furniture. The modeler must be able to handle and assemble
(glue) small parts together accurately and to keep them to
scale. In rigging, there will be more to do, so the modeler
must have the patience to spend the time to complete the rig.
They should have the ability to "think out" the rigging
beforehand, and also know how to push and pull lines about with
rigging tool aids.
The painting of the model is going to be more difficult. The
modeler should know how to plan painting the various parts and
proceed in an orderly fashion, so as not to work their way into
a hole.
Advanced-
Most advanced models are really just more of the same. The same
skills are required for the most part. The name of the game is
patience. The Flying Fish model from Model shipways is an
advanced project. It was always a big seller to beginners and
advanced modelers alike. From old Model Shipways, John Shedd,
I was told that it was a good seller, but less completed model.
Modelers start but never finish the model. My only thought is
that they loose patience and get bored with the project over a
very long time period. So, you must have the patience and
endurance for advanced projects.
Like the intermediate model, the advanced model has even more
rigging involved, but if you can rig a single mast you can
certainly rig two. The skill is the same. An advanced project
will require you to do more detailing and the tying of simple
knots is not likely to be satisfactory. Consequently, you
should have the skill to make seizings of lines, wraping them
with fine thread.
The advanced project will probably get you more into soldering.
The Flying Fish is a good example. There are many iron fittings.
So, you should have the skill to cut, shape, and solder small
brass parts. Sometimes, you can substitute other methods in
lieu of soldering. You should have the ability to make these
decisions and know that the result will be satisfactory.
Painting again will be difficult but should not be any more
involved than on an intermediate model. (Ben Lankford)
6. What experience have other modelers had with the European kits?
A: The following originally was with reference to an Artesania
Latina kit, but in general applies to ANY of the European kits.
(John Kopf)
***I bought a 1:48 model of the U.S.S. Charles W. Morgan (three-
masted Whaler) about 8 years ago for $180. I've been working
on it off and on over that time (with multi-year breaks of 'off'
time). Lately I've been 'on' and progress has been pretty
steady.
But during the work on the whole beast, I've been surprised at
how poor the instructions are and, despite fairly extensive
diagram sheets, how incredibly easy it is to screw up. This
was my first foray into model ships and I've obviously bitten
off a huge chunk, but it's been lots of fun. Except for the
part where I botched the stern. And the part in the bow where
the planks don't really form to the first layer of the hull.
And where the...
I doubt I'd have done a second one if I'd built something
simple. There's something epic about building this monster.
But to return to my question... Is Artesania Latina a reputable
outfit or not? And do they still exist? I'd like to talk to
them about getting some more stock for the ship (not enough
doweling for the spars). Anybody got an address on these guys?
To any fellow novices who are working on an Artesania Latina
model, here are my words of advice:
The guys who did the instructions are laughing their collective
behinds off at the thought of somebody following what they
wrote down. The order of steps is horrendous and frequently
leaves out dependencies between various pieces. Look at the
plans about 8 times, look ahead in the directions about 5 steps,
measure everything twice, dry fit it to the model a couple
times and then, only then, do it all over again before you even
think about cutting or shaping anything.
But in all honesty, the kit has been buckets of fun. I can't
imagine getting more enjoyment per dollar in any other way.
I know this much - the whales are safe from this baby...
(John Buehler)
***Like you, John, I'm working on my first Latina kit (it's
the Swift pilot boat) and I have to agree, the instructions
leave much to be desired. In my case there's no mention of when,
of even if, the keel should be attached. But you're right, by
reading the instructions thoroughly at least three times and
comparing the written word to the diagrams, you should be able
to manage.
I wanted to let the company know what I thought of its
instructions and tried to find the company on the net, but it
didn't turn up with Netscape Search.
As for spare parts, my local hobby shop is able to get
Artisania Latina parts (even for the Swift which has been
discontinued), but any quality hobby shop should carry the
dowels and the proper types of wood needed.
I've completed a couple of solid-hull wood ships this past
year and the Swift is my first attempt at planking a hull. I
have no gripe with the quality of the parts and fittings in the
Latina kit but I'm glad my first planking job is on their
beginner kit.
The company does still exist and I've recently seen their new
catalogue. The finished ships look great and I'm considering
buying their version of the Blue Nose II, but I'll wait until
I've experienced more of their Swift. I may opt for Model
Shipways version of the original Blue Nose. (Derek Conlon)
***I saw a review of Artesania's top of the line kit in an
English boat modelling magazine a couple of years ago. The ship
in question is the Spanish 74-gun San Juan de Nepomuceno, in
1:90 scale or something like that. Here are a couple of points
that I remember from the review.
The belaying pins were all out of scale, and had to be
replaced. The rigging plan was ALL wrong, and had to be
scrapped - time to dig out "Masting and Rigging" again...
The kit in itself got pretty good reviews, though. Good
materials, sensible layout and so on. I can't remember
anything about the building instructions, apart from the
rigging foul-up, but they can't have been too horrible or I
think I would have remembered.
From what the review photos showed, the Nepomuceno kit made a
pretty lovely model once it was finished - those Spaniards made
some beautiful ships back in the 1760s. (Staale Sannerud)
7. What tools do I need to get started?
A: In most all of the recent Model Shipways kits, the instruction
book lists those tools that are needed for the particular model.
However, this list has almost become boiler plate in the
instruction books I prepared. Here's a composite of my list:
A. Knives and saws
1. Hobby knife
2. No.11 blades
3. Razor saw or jeweler's saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33
D. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or individual gouges and
chisels for carving keel rabbets, tapering the stem,
or carving solid hull models.
E. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep tools razor sharp
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" drills
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round
b. flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)
My response regarding tools was primarily for the "minimum"
needs, obviously addressing hand tools. There is also one power
tool that I keep on my minimum list, for models as well as
large woodworking projects. That is the band saw. I have never
been without one, and never will. To me it is the most useful
power tool in any shop, for fancy cuts, stripping, or just
plain cutting a piece of scrap wood in half.
For model work, a small band saw is desirable. I had been
using a large Sears saw up to a few years ago. However, I
bought a speed reducer for it, and now use it exclusively for
cutting metal. Of course, you can change the reducer, and
change the blade for wood cutting. But I'm to old for wasting
that much time. I decided to invest in a small model band saw.
Well, Micro Mark had just advertised a new Black and Decker
band saw for the modeler. I jumped at it. But boy was I
disappointed. This was a big piece of junk. I think it had
a wooden or rock gear drive. It was so noisy you could not
believe it. It was also not accurate, would not line up, and
the case and other parts pure trash. I was not happy that Micro
Mark sold such a thing. Well, maybe they got the word too,
because they soon dumped it, or maybe B&D did.
What I have now, and good old Micro Mark is selling it also,
is the new Delta 8 inch band saw. This is one dreamboat. It is
so quiet you can hardly hear it running. Very accurate and the
case and all parts are of excellent metal and machined very
well. It cuts smooth as silk. I generally use a 1/8" blade
which is very thin. You can get this saw for a song at the big
stores like Home Depot, and some mail order.
As a model band saw, cutting small stuff, I added a new plastic
laminate table on top of the metal table. Saw a slit to the
center with the blade and you have a nice table without the big
hole around the blade. (Ben Lankford)
***While I now have a pretty good stable of power tools, I have
scratchbuilt hulls using a coping saw. While a jig saw
certainly makes life easier, it is not absolutely essential. I
used thinner lifts, and these actually make shaping the hull
easier anyway, although it is more work cutting more layers.
Of course, that may require re-lofting the waterlines, but that
doesn't take more than a couple of hours.
Of course, this requires that the hull be built bread-and-
butter, but I always do that anyway. Wood gets expensive when
you want a single large block.
The thing I like about scratch building is that I can pick my
own scale, and can build any ship I want, not just the ones
that are kitted. (Don Stauffer)
***The only power tool I have is my dremel! No real workbench,
no large saws, not many tools bigger than an Exacto, I borrowed
a table saw & other tools at a friend's house to do the first
cuts on the Incomparable hull) That's why I don't scratchbuild
more than I do. Kits, even inaccurate ones, require far fewer
facilities, and far less time to make into an acceptable model.
(David R. Wells)
***The producers of model kits supply wood and metal parts for
a completed kit of average detail. A "good" kit will have plans
which allow the dedicated and experienced modeller ample scope
for adding more detail. Generally, you have to supply some
materials yourself.
I think you will add more tools and materials to your workshop
with each kit you build. (Septimus)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part03
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part03
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 03) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
8. What scale should I use?
A: Ship models have been built in various scales, from 6"=1' (the
model of the whaling bark Lagoda in the New Bedford Museum) to
1"=100' and even smaller. Obviously, the smaller the scale,
the smaller the model (and all of the details thereon); the
larger the scale, the easier it is to put in fine detail.
A "museum quality" ship model (see # 29, Part 06) generally
shows all details that will have a dimension of at least 1/16th
inch on the model.
Common scales are specified in one of two ways, either as a
pair of dimensions (e.g., 1/4 inch = 1 foot), or as a
dimensionless ratio (e.g., 1:48). The latter is probably a
better usage, since one unit on the model corresponds to *n*
units on the actual ship (no matter WHAT units are being used...
inches, feet, metric, "points", etc.; it also avoids confusion
(is a 1/16 model 1:16 or 1"=16' ?)
Probably the most important criteria is: how much room do you
have to display the model? Consider the Queen Mary -- Overall
Length = 1,019.5 ft. (310.74 m.) -- admittedly an extreme
example, and the U.S.S. Constitution ("Old Ironsides") --
length (between perpendiculars) = 175 ft.
Scale Length of model: Q.M. Constitution
1:2 6"=1' 509' 9" 87' 6"
1:3 4"=1' 339' 10" 58' 4"
1:4 3"=1' 254' 10" 43' 9"
1:6 2"=1' 169' 11" 29' 2"
1:12 1"=1' 84' 11" 14' 7"
7:96 7/8"=1' 74' 4" 12' 9"
1:16 3/4"=1' 63' 9" 10' 11"
1:24 1/2"=1" ==> 1" = 2' 42' 6" 7' 3"
1:32 3/8"=1' 31' 10" 5' 6"
1:36 1"=3' 28' 3" 4' 10"
1:48 1/4"=1' (1"=4') 21' 3" 3' 8"
1:60 1"=5' 17' 2' 11"
1:64 3/16"=1' 15' 11" 2' 9"
1:72 1"=6' 14' 2" 2' 5"
1:96 1"=8' 10' 7" 1' 10"
1:128 3/32"=1' 7' 11" 1' 4"
1:196 1/16"=1' 5' 3" 11"
1:384 1/32"=1' 2' 6" 6"
1:500 2' 4"
1:700 1' 6" 3"
1:768 1/64"=1' 1" 4" 3"
1:1000 1' 2"
1:1200 0' 10" 2"
Kits often are to a scale "that fits the box" -- I have an
ancient set of kit plans for the Normandy at 1:686 ! And, of
course, there are other, "bastard" scales (model railroad "HO"
scale is 1:87.1 ==> 3.5 mm = 1"). The "popular" scales seem to
be: 1:700 (plastic warships), 1:96 (modern ships), 1:48
(sailing ships), 1:24 & 1:12 (small boats).
*** How much space do you have to devote to your collection?
1:48, 1:96 and 1:192 are popular (but not exclusive) scales
used in maritime and naval museums in the U.S. In Europe,
Metric scales (e.g., 1:100, 1:200, etc.,) seem to dominate.
(RAlcorn824)
***I have seen various postings on the net proposing a
standard modeling scale for naval ship models, 1:700 being
too small for those of us with crappy vision, and 1:350 being
only great if you have a stadium to display your finished
models (1:500 would be great, too). Well, my humble proposal
is (no surprise) 1:600. (Joseph W. Reyna)
***To a large extent I agree. Also, most 1:700 scale ships
are waterline models. I hate them. I like working on props,
rudders, bilge keels, etc.
Most of my fleet is between 1:450 and 1:600.
Thanks to the folks on r.m.s., I've been working on more 1:600
Airfixes lately. My British collection is getting to be quite
big, and it will soon outgrow its display box.
Also, Arii makes Yamato class & Iowa class battleships in
1:600.
Keep in mind that Frog, Renwal and Nichimo also put out 1:500
scale ships. Find them if you can. Frog & Renwal are gone,
(the Frog molds are in Russia, and Revellogram has the Renwal
molds) and the Nichimos are rare.
A standard scale is exactly what is needed. Unfortunately,
the standard is now 1:700 waterline. For good, bad, or
indifferent, most of the model kits today come from the Far
East, and they are the staunchest supporters of the 1:700
standard. They aren't going to make all new molds just for us.
There aren't enough ship modelers to make it worth their
while. Similarly, Revellogram is going to continue with their
"box scale", simply because they aren't making any new ship
molds, and they get by with just re-issuing their old stuff.
As much as I would like to see a 1:500 or 1:600 full hull
standard scale, it isn't going to happen. (D. Wells)
***Ever tried Heller's 1:400? Good stuff :-) (John G. Burns)
***That depends on *what* you build. True a 1:350 battleship
may be big but a destroyer or a sub is about the size of a
1:48 airplane.
This scale is not as bad as you may believe. Here are some
dimensions for the ships that we as ship modelers need in
this scale:
USS Pennslyvania BB38 20.84" x 3.43"
USS St. Louis CL49 20.57" x "2.12"
USS Alaska CB1 30.21" x 3.13"
USS Saratoga CV3 32.17" x 3.30"
And the detail to these that someone could do would far exceed
any of these other smaller scales! (REDBOZO6)
9. How does one change the scale of plans?
A: In the past, people made do with pantographs, proportional
dividers, and basically redrew the plans by hand.
Today, people use "copiers" to scale drawings up or down. A
typical copier can enlarge or reduce a drawing by from 64% to
142%. Unfortunately, this doesn't help much if you need to
change the scale more than this amount. However, you can still
get by making partial scale changes -- for example, expanding
by 141% and then expanding the first expanded copy by another
141% gives you 1.41 x 1.41 = 1.9881; expanding it by 142%
instead gives 2.0022...either is probably close enough to 2x to
be acceptable.
When enlarging, lines tend to get broader (and "muddier") --
set the copier to "light" to help reduce this effect.
Copiers tend to "stretch" the drawing more in one direction
than the other (this is supposedly to prevent the copying of
paper money -- the resulting image won't match in change-making
machines). If you are doing multiple expansions/compressions,
try to change the orientation of the drawing each time (from
horizontal to vertical, etc.) so that the error introduced in
one operation is canceled out in the next.
If you anticipate needing multiple copies, do them all at once,
using the same batch of paper -- that way stretching or
shrinking of the paper is more likely to be uniform for all
copies than if you made copies at different times using
different lots of paper.
Finally, commercial copy shops can frequently make larger
copies, and/or bigger scale-changes with one pass. In order to
help them produce a copy of the correct size, draw a pair of
lines somewhere on your source, at right angles to one another,
and properly scaled and annotated with something like "enlarge
to 6 inches long" -- that way you won't have to explain about
the (often obscure) scale that is on the plans themselves. (If
you are using historical foreign sources, make sure what units
are actually being used -- for example, Chapman has scales in
Swedish, French, and English feet...all are different!)
(John Kopf)
*** Whatever fits, it seems. Plans I use range from 1/2" =
1' to 1/32"=1' much smaller than this becomes self defeating,
even if you are building a model to a smaller scale. (RAlcorn824)
10. What woods are recommended?
A: A large variety of woods exist...some of these are useful for
ship models:
apple - good for planking...bends easily
balsa - TOO SOFT for ship model use! (At least on
surfaces; occasionally useful for "spacers"
used internally.)
bamboo - tough, easily split; used for trunnels, etc.
basswood - soft but readily available
boxwood - the best for find detail carving
clear pine - for bread-and-butter hulls
cherry - fairly common, fine grain, somewhat brittle
degama - good for masts and spars
ebony - Black! very hard and brittle, doesn't bend
easily
holly - White! good for decking, carving
pear - works like cherry but brown instead of red,
and not brittle.
ANY wood can be stained to look like ebony using black india
ink as a stain. (John O. Kopf)
***At some point you are going to substitute the relatively
soft, weak wood strips supplied in the kit with very dense,
close-grained exotic hardwoods like pearwood, boxwood,
lancewood, and applewood. The kit producers will furnish you
with basswood because it is commercially available and not very
costly. Don't feel badly about upgrading or adding to the
materials supplied in the kit. (Septimus)
***For historic ship modelling purposes I would recommend any
woods that are hard and have a close or tight grain. I would
rate boxwood, apple and pear in that catagory. Cherry, gum and
maple are also good but not as hard as the first three
mentioned. Basswood is a very stable wood but does not finish
well. I have seen Tangyanka and have had no experience in
working with it but from all appearances, I think I'll leave it
alone as the other woods that I have mentioned allow an
excellent color range, are easily worked and finish well.
Have you considered hornbeam, often called ironwood? It has a
straight to sometimes irregular grain and has no visable figure.
The texture is hard, heavy and with a compact structure. Color
is silvery white. It can be worked into small delicate parts
and can be carved to very sharp detail. It takes a beautiful
polished finish. Price is usually less than holly or boxwood.
(Dana McCalip)
***I second the recommendation for maple - rock or sugar maple.
I planked the hull and deck of Kate Cory with it. It will take
aqueous aniline dyes very well - glues well - is very hard -
one of the hardest domestic woods. The figure will vary with
the angle of the cut. It is tight grained - no open pores to
fill. It is significantly harder than fruit wood or cherry. I
have used sycamore (buttonwood) and do not like it -too fuzzy-
prominent figure and stinks when cut. When the English write
about sycamore (Underhill) they are describing a tree in the
maple family I believe. (Dean Warden)
11. A friend of mine told me that CA glues (superglues, Zap-A-Gap,
etc.) will severely weaken their bonds over time and may
eventually turn to white powder. Can anyone out there confirm
or deny the above statement?
A. I remember a similar scare back in 1968 when I was getting back
into models after college - Krazy Glue hadn't appeared on the
market yet. A local hobby shop was importing the first CA we'd
seen from Japan (Pearl Chemical). The rumor started that it
would only last a year, so many of us went back to epoxies etc.
The rumor was finally discredited and we returned to CA. I used
it mostly on metal military miniatures and plastic armour all
of which were completely painted - and they are still in one
piece. I've known it to fail if you put it on too thick or on
an unprepared dirty surface as and put alot of stress on the
fix. I've also tried to open a tight joint with acetone solvent
with limited success. The stuff does seem to last. It would be
interesting to get a chemists opinion. (V. L. Kraut)
***Regarding CYA's. I am a coatings chemist that uses CYA's
frequently. Couple of points to remember about CYA's is that
they are soluble in many organic solvents (acetone, methanol)
and WATER. Also, if the glue is cured to quickly (by using too
much "accelerator") the heat generated will cause the glue to
foam and reduce its strength. I have had CYA joints exposed
to methanol glow fuels fail, but i have never seen the glues I
have used degrade over time. However, it is very possible that
years of high humidity, sunlight, or solvent exposure could
destroy CYA. (Dave Seuferling)
***I've got two ship models, wood, plank on bulkhead, that I
put together in the winter of 1982-83. I used regular Crazy
Glue on both and reinforced the joints between the bulkheads
and strakes with white glue. All the rest of the glue joints
were strictly Crazy Glue. No joints have separated so far, and
neither of the models are in a glass case, so they are exposed
to whatever the ambient room conditions are. I used the same
glue on a double planked hull, still far from finished, and on
outer layerstrake has separated at the bow (no big deal to fix
it).
Two out of three of the above hulls have extreme compound
curves at both bow and stern, so the joints had to have been
under some stress, even though I hot bent them during
construction.
I have a fouth that I started in 84 and am still working on
that I used Crazy Glue - wood and leather on. The hull is
fully nailed (2000+ nails), so even if the glue lets go, I
don't think the planks are going anywhere. This version of
Crazy Glue turned out to be a lot better to work with than
the original. It's a bit thicker, so its more forgiving about
slight gaps or irregularities in the joints, takes a bit longer
to set up so tricky pieces can be coaxed into place a bit
easier than the "instant"bond of the original allowed.
Even if you don't want to use it as a construction glue, one
place this stuff really shines is in threading small blocks
when you're doing the rigging and setting the knots and
fastenings to belaying pins and cleats. A bit of glue on the
end of a piece of string firms it up so it becomes its own
needle. A long diagonal cut through the glued string creates a
very fine point, and passing the string through the tiny hole
in a block is no problem at all. Rat lines and other knotted
crossings of lines stay put if you dab a bit of glue on them,
and if you use the original formula for this purpose, it
disappears completely into the thread. The W&L formula
sometime stays visible if you use too much.
Be aware that some shops that sell models don't accept cryo
based glues though, so if you're building to market, check with
the shop before you spend a lot of time building a boat they
won't want. (Jack Silvia)
***One thing I have noticed is that alot of people are claiming
to have built models of various types using CA adhesives that
are 20 years old and aren't falling apart.
One thing that HAS become more prevalent in the use of CA
Adhesives is the use of "accelerators" and "ZIP Kickers" with
the slower curing varieties of CA. This can produce quite
different results than the traditional methods of using CA.
The availability of accelerators has also allowed people to use
CA as a filler as well as an adhesive.
Problems can occur when an accelerator is used on a thick
application of CA. The accelerator can instantly cure the
SURFACE of the application, but the center stays liquid, and
MAY not be able to cure properly if the surface hardening
completely seals the center off from air. This results in a
soft core that may never fully cure, and is not structurally
sound as an adhesive.
I ran into this when I used CA to fill all of the windows in a
Heller 1/72 Constellation in order to convert it to a C/EC-121.
Some of the windows fills retained a "bubble" of uncured CA.
It is better to do this type of operation in multiple thin
applications, than trying to do it in one thicker one and use
accelerator!
I wonder how many CA problems are related to the one I had!
Hopefully, we all learn from our mistakes. (Steve Kennedy)
***I've recently had a very strange experience with them that
has me baffled, and I'd like to learn how to not repeat it....
A couple of days ago, I was coating the interiors of cardboard
model rocket tubes with CA in order to strengthen them. I was
using a store brand (I can give you the manufacturer if you
need it) that was a couple of months old. At first I was using
medium, but then I ran out and switched to thick. My finger
was covered with the stuff, and a bit after I switched to the
thick, I started feeling a sharp pain in that finger. I thought
it would go away, but it just getting stronger and stronger --
it started feeling like my finger was on fire.
I put my finger under water, which seemed to help. But a few
minutes after I would take my finger out of the water, the heat
would start coming back. The glue was too thick to wash off,
and not set enough to peel off, so my husband tried cleaning it
off with paint thinner. That hurt too much, so he got some
debonder, and eventually we got it all off, put some burn
medicine on, and wrapped my finger in a bandage. Everything
was fine after that....
I know it wasn't an allergic reaction because my husband got
some on his finger while he was cleaning me up, and he started
burning too. I also know that CA generates heat when it cures
-- but my husband didn't have that much on his finger.... So,
I was curious if you might have any ideas on what caused it to
burn so much? Do you think it might have been mixing the
medium and thick (both from the same manufacturer)??? Could it
have been the age of the stuff??? Or could it just have been
something with the brand???? Or could it have been the fact
that I had so much on my finger????
As I said, I'd like to avoid this in the future (and warn
others about it too), but unless I know what exactly happened,
there's not much that I could do that makes sense.....
(Paul & Victoria Heisner)
***CA was developed as a way to "stitch" wounds together fast
in the field, that's why you shouldn't get it on your fingers,
and the chemical reaction involved probabely caused the burning
of your finger. In short, don't get it on your skin!
(Olaf Kievit)
***Bottom line -- Don't rely on a glue joint alone (ANY type
of glue)...PIN the pieces to gether as well (using screws,
nails, dowels, splines, etc., if at all possible.
Take care when using CA...it was originally developed as an
alternative to sutures in surgery.
However, it IS handy to have something set almost instantly...
I regularly use it in conjunction with other glues (white and
yellow) to tack pieces together until the "slow" glue can set
up -- instant clamps! (John Kopf)
***On the subject of super glues being dangerous, there is one
thing that you should watch out for. I learned this by
experience. If you are going to sand or shape the area of a
joint that you have sealed with any of the super glue types,
make sure you let it dry for a long time. On a few occassions,
not having been smart enough to learn from the first time, I
have attempted to sand or shape such an area with my Dremel tool.
The friction from the sanding bit actually turned pockets of
undried glue into a gas much like a tear gas. It burnt the
nose, throat, and eyes even through goggles. Effect lasted for
a good two minutes and I am sure could be much worse for some
people with allergies etc. Just a word of caution let it dry
well when doing this. (Tom Dean)
***One important point seems to be overlooked in the current
round of discussion, that is the heat given off by the glue as
it cures. A recent accident reminded me; I spilled some CA onto
my work table, then tried to mop it (carefully) with kitchen
paper. Of course I was instantly bonded to the paper (though
not to the table). The problem was the volume of glue versus
the amount of moisture available. Two of my fingers rapidly
heated up (there was smoke and acrid CA fumes!). I did not reach
the cold faucet fast enough, and received some small but painful
chemical burns.
I've been using the stuff for close to 20 years and this was
my first bad accident (I don't include all the times I became
glued to my ship model!). But beware, it could happen to you too!
I work in a museum where we use this glue a lot to repair
fossils! According to the safety literature we have, the glue
and its fumes are not considered toxic (it is not a good idea to
inhale), and the main dangers have to do with heat production
on contact with moisture. And I know people who have succesfully
replaced a loose tooth crown with a drop of CA. (John Maisey)
THE HULL
========
12. I have some plans I bought from Floating Drydock a few years
ago of the Montana-class battleship and Alaska-class cruiser.
I'd really love to scratchbuild these guys in the future, which
leads me to my inquiry...
None of the articles in the modelling mags show how people have
scratchbuilt their ship hulls. I'm wondering what experiences
others have had in doing it, especially what techniques work
the best for them.
A. A lot depends on the scale you're using, and on the intended
purpose. The best method for a 1:1200 waterline model is
probably carving from the solid; for a large model either
bread-and-butter, planked bulkhead, or some combination of the
two will probably serve best. (John O. Kopf)
***If you are considering building a hull for display on a
fairly large scale check the these references: Scale Ship
Modeler, June 1995, Mike Winters has an article on building a
cruiser (USS Memphis) using bread and butter method using
styrofoam insulation panel instead of wood. I have been working
on a liner at 1:192 and found this material easy to work with
and am quite satisfied with result. I modified Winters
technique, though. Try Scale Ship Modeler March/April 1995
where Jack Melody describes building the battleship USS IOWA
(1896 vintage) at 1/20, 1 inch=20 ft. using a hull made partly
of solid balsa block below waterline and bulkheads above with
balsa sheathing. (Al Rauber)
***Mine is not the approved method, but here's how I always did
it.
1) Take appropriate size chunk of wood.
2) Using saber saw, band saw, whatever's around, cut out the
basic outline of the ship.
3) Make templates from the hull sections on your plans.
4) Carve/file/sand the hull until it conforms to the templates.
OK, that's a gross oversimplification, but the basic technique
is there.
I freely admit that I did not use the bread-and-butter method.
The reason is that I worked in relatively small scales,
(1:500-1:600) and big-enough wood was readily available.
(David R. Wells)
***I seem to recall that the Nov/Dec '94 issue of Model Ship
Builder magazine had an article about scratch-building a hull
of the type you are referring to. I believe the author was a
long-time builder of static-display wooden sailing ship models
(I'm working from memory, here) and he decided to build a model
of a more modern ship as a change of pace. Some scratch builders
construct their hulls with plastic sheet, but his approach was
much like building a sailing ship model, with plywood bulkheads
and wooden strip planking. If you can find a current issue of
MSB, you can probably back-order that issue for about $6.25 or
so. (Brett Denner)
***OK, I'll chime in on this. First and foremost, you're in
real good shape with those plans. In looking at the listings
in The Floating Drydock's catalog, your Alaska plans will have
the hull sections you need for building the hull. As for the
Montana, go out and fing a copy of Dulin & Garzke's "U.S.
Battleships" (ISBN:1-55750-174-2). In the section on the
Montana's you'll find a set of hull lines for her.
Now the fun (?) part. Hull sections (HS) look like a funny
drawing of the hull with one half looking aft and one half
looking forward. On each of these halfs, there are curves
lines that are labeled with either numbers or letters. These
lines are frame references, and they'll correspond to marks
below the outboard profile (OP) view. These marks show where
each of the lines on the HS drawing are located according to
the OP.
To build from these, I use the plank on frame method. What you
want to do is to set out a keel dimensioned to the length of
the bottom of the hull on the OP. It doesn't matter the shape
right now. Next, use the HS drawing to make each of the
bulkheads shown. Now remember, you're looking at half of it,
so duplicate the left (or right) side for each bulkhead.
Number each bulkhead as you make them so that you can keep
track of them. Next. mark the positions of the bulkheads from
the OP on to the keel piece. Attach the bulkheads to the keel
at the proper places, and you'll have the frame of the ship.
Once you have the frame, the next thing to do is to start
placing planking on the outside of it. Use relatively small
pieces to do this, and don't worry about making them fit
exactly since you'll eventually sand them smooth. Once all of
the planking is in place, sand out the rough parts and joints,
and you'll have your scratch hull.
Two words of warning. First, when you're at the point of
attaching the bulkheads to the keel, it'll be very delicate.
But if you break off one of the bulkheads, just glue it back.
Second, make sure that you allow for the width on material
you're using. I use .06" plastic for my hulls, so when I
measure out a bulkhead, I've got my calculator programmed to
automatically subtract .12" from the overall calculation.
(REDBOZO6)
***I can't say which works best, but a long time ship modeller
locally builds his hulls from 1/2" basswood planks. The planks
are first cut to shape to match the widest part of the hull
section, and once all of the layers are glued together the hull
is sanded to shape by removing the "steps" in the planks. He
notes you have to be quite careful not to create convex/concave
surfaces doing this...
***Since many modern ships have a relatively square cross-
section for much of their length, a combination of bread-and-
butter for the ends and planked bulkheads for the center work
relatively well. When I've done this, I start with a plank
cut to the shape of the lowest waterline. The severely curved
ends are build up as bread-and-butter sub-assemblies. The
"central" portion of each is rabbeted for the ends of the
planks. These ends are fastened to the bottom plank. The
intermediate stations are drawn onto plywood, allowing for the
thickness of the planking (I don't use a central "backbone",
although I have seen others use a "box-beam" here - that's
simply a long plywood box that the bulkheads slid onto -- very
rigid and torsion-resistant!).
Also allow for a thick strip at the sheer (and, if the curving
of the bilge is extensive, I also allow for a block there).
The bulkheads are glued to the bottom plank in the appropriate
locations, and the shear strip (and bilge blocks, if used)
are installed. Planking the remainder is now easy, as the planks
will all be relatively straight. (John O. Kopf)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part04
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part04
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 04) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
13. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
A: The best method to use depends upon the dimensions of the stock,
and on the degree of bending required. In general, wood
*should* be pre-bent; if it is simply "wrapped" onto the model
the resulting tension can easily tear the model apart after a
few years. Instead, use one the methods listed below to pre-
shape the wood; fasten it after it has "set" and holds the
shape by itself.
First of all, you'll have better luck if you chose your stock
so that the grain runs lengthwise (I've frequently found
commercial strips to be severly cross-grained at some point,
perhaps with the grain running as much as 45 degrees to the
length -- this is often because the strip was cut from a board
near a knot).
A thick or complicated shape may be easiest to form by carving
it from the solid -- perhaps laminating the solid from a number
of pieces so the grain tends to follow the final curve (I use
this technique for sailing ship head-rails, which can be a half-
circle in some cases).
You can also laminate a piece from a number of thinner pieces
bent to a former -- the thinner the individual wood pieces, the
easier they are to bend, an the necesary thickness is achieved
by gluing these side-to-side over a form...the result will hold
it's shape when it's removed from the form. (This method is
frequently used to make "mast hoops" by wrapping a glue-coated
plane-shaving around a waxed dowel and then slicing off the
hoops when it has dried.)
Wood can also be bent more easily if it is wet or hot or both.
Simply soaking a strip in water will make it more pliable. If
you then bend it to shape, and let it dry out it will "spring"
back only a small amount. Hot water works better than cold.
Wood is a "plastic" material, and thus can be deformed under
heat or as a result of chemical softening.
Many people use household ammonia for this purpose (instead of
soaking in water) -- if you can bear the smell. It may also
discolor some woods.
You can also hold the strip over a kettle and steam it. The
trouble with this is that thin strips cool off so fast that
you'll end up working with cold, wet wood by the time you get
it in place.
For reasonably thick work, such as deck beams, I've had some
success either wrapping the stock in wet rags, or floating it
in a dish of water, and then microwaving it for about a minute.
It's relatively easy to wrap planks around a hull. it's much
harder to bend them sideways (i.e., give them an "edge-set").
For some places where I need a plank bent edge-wise (e.g.,
railings), I find it easier to take a WIDE piece of stock whose
thickness is the final width, and bend this piece to shape. I
then saw curved planks from the edge.
Do not use these methods on multi-layer board (e.g., plywood).
Water soaks the glue and causes the board to warp or split.
The best way to bend boards is to score the "inside" curve and
build a jig.
You can also get a good job with the plank-forming pliers and
bending jig from Micro-Mark. Jig is adjustable. Using a plank
bender without heating or soaking the wood will likely just
fracture the wood.
(This includes suggestions from: Chris Maxfield, Clayton A.
Feldman, Rich Gortatowsky, Ron Ginger, Trevor Farrell,
PKAeronaut, Jack Silvia, and Keath Wong.)
MORE---
***In bending planks, I use an old soldering iron I got over
twenty years ago.
It no longer has a label, so I don't know what the wattage is,
but the barrel that holds the nib is about 3/4 of an inch in
diameter and the nib is about 1/2 inch, and I suspect it runs
about 40 watts. I think it might have been used for automotive
body work, but don't know for sure. Scrounge the yard sales
and flea markets...
I find it works better than a plank bender, because a plank
bender, at least the ones I've seen, works the arc in the plank
while holding the plane of the width of the plank constant.
This gives you a nice curve for a plank that would lie on the
hull all in a horizontal plane, but hull planks usually sweep
up in addition to curving toward the bow and stern. With the
soldering iron, I can form both curves at the same time.
Here's the steps I go through:
1 - Cut the bow and stern taper in 4 planks, leaving them about
4 inches (2 on each end) longer than they need to be on the
hull. You use the extra to give you something to hold onto
while you bend them and install them. Cut them in pairs, one
for each side of the hull.
2 - Float them in a soaking tray, (a piece of 4" or 6" pvc
capped on both ends, then cut longitudinally in half works
well for this) for about a half hour. Flip the planks over
and soak for about 15 minutes more. Pay attention to which
planks form a pair. Plain, warm water works fine. For some
woods adding ammonia helps, for others it makes them more
brittle.
3 - While you're waiting, cut two more planks and set them
aside, clamp the soldering iron in a bench vice (by the handle)
so its sticking straight up, and plug it in to heat.
4 - Work the flat of a plank against the side of the nib holder
of the soldering iron, stretching it and pulling it into shape.
For one side of the hull, use the side of the iron opposite to
you and pull the bend toward you and up, for the other, use the
side nearest you and work the bend away from you and up.
Remember that the bends need to be mirror images of one
another. Work fairly quickly, and pay attention to how dry
the wood is getting. If it dries out completely, it will
discolor or burn. Feel free to dunk it into the water if it
does begin to dry out too much. What you're doing is making
steam that penetrates the wood, pulling it into shape, and
cooking the water back out again.
5 - Once you have it close to shape, you can install it on
the hull.
6 - Between installing the first and second planks, put two
more into the soaking tray, and cut two more and set them
aside. Installing two planks, while two planks are new in
the soak tray, seems to work well relative to the timing of
the soak. Just keep track of which are new. You should
have 4 in the tray all the time you're working.
7 - I've been using a cryo based glue (Krazy glue, wood &
leather) as my working glue, and it doesn't seem to care if
there is still a little moisture in the wood. A day later, I
reinforce the joints between the bulkheads and planks with
carpenters (elmer's yellow) for as many strakes as I can reach
before the sides meet the deck. I've got two hulls I did
in 1986 that don't show any signs of separating, even at the
strakes that are held only by cryo, but who knows how they'll
look 100 years from now. I also 'nail' my hulls though, so
that may also be helping to hold them together.
8 - Keep repeating the process from step 4 until you get bored
or tired. Then call it quits. When you do, clamp the keel
into a keel clamp to make sure it doesn't bend while the wood
finishes drying.
Note: The important message here is work one plank on each
side of the hull at a time, even if you're doing the second
layer of a double planked hull. Once the planks are fastened
to the bulkheads or inner hull, their environment is different
from wherever you were storing them. They change shape and
try to straighten back out. Wood is an imperfect medium, so
you can't control the shape change. Working port, then
starboard, with the help of a keel clamp, tends to average
the stresses out by the time you reach the gunnels. You can
hide a slightly bent keel, when the distortion is side to side,
when you mount the model, but if you hog the hull, there's no
way to hide it.
Note 2 (for beginners): A keel clamp is fairly easy to make.
Get some oak flooring, 2" wide and longer then your hull
length, and drill holes about 1/2 of an inch from one edge, so
you can put 1/4-20 bolts through and clamp the boards together.
Slip your keel in along the oposite edge, between the oak
boards. Tighten the nuts down and let it sit overnight. If
you want to get fancy, and have a much easier time rigging,
you can rig a stand to one side of the clamp so you can hold
the finished hull in a bench vice while you're doing the deck
houses and rigging.
***Another easy way is to heat up an old style electric
soldering iron, clamp it vertically in a vise, and bend your
hot water soaked planking strips around it, moving the strip
slowly into the curve you need with second or two of contact
at each mm along the way. Experiment with a bit of scrap to
determine the correct contact time for bending and before
scorching. (Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***This method can certainly be used - but you had better not
try to use the soldering iron for soldering afterwards! I found
that my iron was covered with a sooty residue after bending
planks (of course, the iron may have been too hot. An iron on
which you could regulate the temperature would be the best for
the purpose.)
Anyway, the point is that wood can be bent using heat, and
water will keep it from scorching. You can also use live steam
to bend planks, as a lot of modellers do, but it would involve
a bit of gear (heater, water container etc) and I guess you
could easily get burnt. What I like about the water/candle
method is that it doesn't involve a lot of equipment - and you
don't have to have an electrical outlet within arm's reach.
(Staale Sannerud)
***I just use the 100w light bulb on my bench lamp...it's
plenty hot for stripwood. (John Kopf)
***I used to attend the very active Alberta Ship Modellers'
Society meetings and the modellers have two methods.
1. Use a (.5in or .75in dia) copper pipe to contain the plank
strips and run live steam from a kettle through the pipe. Pin
planks to hull formers until dry then glue.
2. Soak the planks in laundry ammonia to soften them. You will
have to do this in the garage or outdoors on account of the
stink. (Peng F. Mok)
***I find that the candle-and-water technique I have mentioned
earlier on this group works well - I basically first bend the
planks one way for sheer and then bend it the other way to lie
against the frames - it takes time, though:)
I would guess that any bending technique can be applied in
this manner: First sheer, and then the other way. If you use
steam, I guess the whole plank will become wet and flexible -
pin it in place while it dries and it should fit pretty well
when it dries! Anyway. the important thing is to make the
plank fit naturally in place, so the pins and glue don't have
to force it to keep in place!
Different woods behave differently, too. I used obeche for
wales on my Neptunus model (80 guns, 1789) and I found that it
was much easier to bend and handle than pine, not to mention
balsa. If the planks on the Golden Hind won't behave, you might
consider bying planks of a different wood and using them
instead - it is available if you know where to look.
(Staale Sannerud)
***Several years ago Philips made a travel steamer; a small
hand held container which you fill with water. Plug it in and
steam comes out of a row of small holes. The steam issued at a
high temperature and with a bit of pressure. The purpose of
the device was to steam the wrinkles out of clothing when
traveling.
I found that the row of steam holes was just right for ship
model planks. A few moments in front of the device and you can
bend a plank to fit any stern curve. Hold the curve until the
wood cools, let the plank dry, and then glue it in.
There must be similar units on the market now. (Dan Johnston)
14. I am building a solid hull ship; the kit comes with paper
cut-out templates to check the hull shape.
Will these paper templates suffice to check out the shape or
is it intended that one should use the templates to cut out
balsa templates?
A: Typically, the paper templates are too flimsy to use to
accurately verify the shape of the hull. It is better to copy
their pattern to a stiffer cardboard or poster board. You can
also use these patterns to make a stand to keep your model in
while you work on it, and also to make a nice permanent stand
for the finished model.
Ideally, getting a copy of the original ships plans, and
creating patterns from the ships lines is the best. Many people
abandon the solid hull that came with the kit, and create their
own plank-on-frame/plank-on-bulkhead hull (deviating from the
kit in an attempt to create a more accurate/appealing model is
quite a common practice among ship modelers). (Monica Chaban)
***I usually mount paper templates on some sort of card stock,
adding stripwood as needed to stiffen the body.
( Kurt (Seaphoto) )
***IMHO stiff white cardboard has the minimal stiffness and
durability for hull templates. Mattboard found in art supply
shops for matting pictures would be ideal.
You would, for example, fix the printed template patterns to
the mattboard with rubber cement (not water-based glue) and
cut as close to the line as you dare with a fine fretsaw or
power jigsaw, then clean it up with sandpaper to the line.
Some hull section diagrams are printed in such a way that you
might need the additional step of tracing them with high
quality tracing paper (also from your art supply shop) and
then cementing the traced pattern onto cardboard. (Septimus)
***...good quality card (file folder stock, etc.) stock (or
thin sheet styrene, or even metal, such as stock from aluminum
soda cans), and trim that to shape.
A good idea is to block up the hull so the waterline *or* keel
is level, and then cut a "tab" on the pattern so it can sit
using the table as a reference plane...that's more work, but
it's also more accurate than trying to fit the pattern to the
hull at the keel and shear line only. (John Kopf)
***Even better for templates is 1/64" thick aircraft ply. The
rubber cement and cut-pout process is just as described above.
It's very durable. (Clay Feldman)
***Regardless, Use something with a bit more stiffness than
paper. Even 'shirt cardboard' works. The pointer about adding
'tabs' which would permit setting all to a horizontal waterline
is very useful. Try to keep the working edge of the template
as thin as possible while retaining the necessary rigidity.
(RAIcorn824)
***...The plywood works great as it is strong and stiff. The
balsa has a tendancy to be soft when pressed against the hull
to check on dimensions. (David Loseke)
***If you're transferring the pattern to thim aircraft plywood,
make a Xerox, lay it face down on the wood and wipe the back
with gasoline or another serious thinner in a rag. (Don't
smoke while you're doing this.) The right amount of soaking
and pressure will transfer the Xerox powder to the wood.
(Burl Burlingame)
***don't use gasoline for anything except motor fuel. A
friend of my sons was burned to death while cleaning dirt bike
parts in a can of gasoline. The spark that ignited the vapor
was over 20 feet away.
A safer method is to heat transfer it. Place the paper on the
wood, with the toner against the wood and iron it with a normal
clothes iron, set to a high temp. Hold the iron on for a few
seconds, then peel the paper off.
Sometimes this will cause the wood to develop a curve - if you
heat only one side of it, so also iron the back side of the
wood and it will flatten out.
There are special toners made to transfer eaisly, but the
standard stuff of a copy machine or laser printer works fine.
(Ron Ginger)
***Actually, ball-point pen works well too...put your drawing
ink-side down onto the wood and iron the ink into it.
(John Kopf)
15. I'm a little mystified by the process of cutting the bevel(s)
on a bulkhead or frame of a wooden ship model?
A: Good plans will have three views -- the "plan" (top view),
profile (side), and "section" (slices through the hull
perpendicular to the other two).
From the section view, trace the horizontal and vertical lines
that correspond to the water- and "buttock" lines.
On the plan and profile views, draw a pair of lines that
correspond to the front and back edge of the bulkhead or frame.
Using dividers, transfer each intersection between the drawn
lines and the water lines and buttock lines to the drawing;
fair these up with a smooth curve. You'll now have a single
drawing of the bulkhead showing BOTH the front and back edges.
Glue this to the wood, and saw to the outside line. Now bevel
from the back (*outside*) to the front at the *inner* line --
the bevels are now complete, and it can be put into place.
(John Kopf)
***Yes, several methods are available.. First, obtain a copy
of Underhill's book "Plank on Frame Models", volume 1.
Second, get / buy / make about a dozen 'battens' approximately
10% or even 15% longer than the hull oength. Take the first
batten (actually a pair) tack one end to the stem and the other
to the stern, "wherever it fits", providing the midships
section was parallel to your datum line. Take note of the
difference in contact with the 'frame' (actually bulkhead).
Now divide the spaces and insert additional battens. In a very
short time, you will see a pattern developing - the side of the
frame closest to the maximum hull dimension will show maximum
contact with the batten, and there will be a gap fore or aft.
At this point you have a couple of choices: shave down the high
spots on the bulkheads or build up the low spots. (Either will
be a compromise!) What you are shooting for is a batten (or
fairing strip, or whatever you choose to call it) making *solid
contact* along the 'face' of each bulkhead the entire length of
the vessel. In any case, with the exception of the 'dead flat'
(read more about lofting if the term is unknown), the edge
surfaces of the bulkheads should never be parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the vessel (unless you are building a coal
or garbage barge). Repeating myself, but Underhill's book
provides probably the most lucid description ever written for
modellers on how to cope with the thickness of frames/bulkheads.
(RAIcorn824)
16. What is accurizing?
A: Accurizing is the achievement of a level of detailing and
accuracy which the model kit does not provide. In most cases,
it means things like:
- Drilling out all the openings and gun barrels
- Making thin parts thin (aircraft cowl flaps, tank fenders,
ship railings, etc.)
- Getting square shapes square and round shapes round (this is
harder than you would think)
- Getting dimensions right, even if it means scratchbuilding
95% of the model (rare but there are times when it is the
only way)
- Getting angles and proportions right
- Getting surface detail right (with tanks and ships, this
means adding nuts, bolts, and rivets; with aircraft and
cars, taking them off) (Cookie Sewell)
***Basically, accurization kits attempt (and usually succeed)
at correcting some deficiency in the injected styrene kit. In
some cases, the accurization kit is maybe a bit of resin or two
and some photo-etch. For instance I've bought a DML
accurization kit for M-48/M-60 tanks that fits this description.
In the realm of photo-etch this usually makes a lot of sense.
Replicating sheet metal vents in 1/72 or even 1/35 in injected
styrene is all but impossible.
When large amounts of resin gets involved, the accurization
kit is tackling a much more ambitious problem with the kit. A
woefully inaccurate profile of an aircraft nose, or totally
incorrect pairing of turret with tank chasis (for a particular
variant).
The only problem with these accurization kits is that most of
them are as expensive as the original kit. So in a measure of
accurization, you can easily double the price you pay for
building a particular kit. I'm not claiming that accuracy
isn't a good thing. Its just that I built more models per year
when I just built things out of the box. Admittedly, what I
was building were starships made by a company that only
believes in making toys, not accurate replicas.
(Andrew Madison)
17. I've got a 1/350 IJN Yamato that I am redoing to match a
different configuration than that provided by Tamiya. This
involves hacking out a half-dozen gun tubs and restoring the
deck. Unfortunately, Tamiya saw fit to build the deck in two
pieces and to place parallel ridges in the deck area where the
original was wooden.
This leaves me with problem of somehow adding ridges to the
areas where I am restoring the deck, and trying to make the
ridges match seamlessly across the spot where the deck halves
join, or to somehow remove all those ridges (which would
probably not be visible in reality anyway).
My questions are:
Does anyone have experience with or suggestions for restoring
such ridges?
or:
What is the best way to remove them without damaging the rest
of the details? (Some of the wooden deck area is located down
behind various superstructure elements and would be extremely
difficult to reach.) (Robert Robinson)
***If it were me I would do the whole deck in brass!!!!!!!.
(MikeBishop)
A: ***1. Since the ridges are supposed to simulate the space
between wooden deck slats, sand down the ridges and scribe
the cracks. Plan to finish sometime after 2000 AD.
2. Use very thin stretched sprue or invisible thread. Use CA
glue sparingly to stick the thread down where the ridge
was removed.
3. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all
ridges. After painting the deck, use a straightedge and
a very fine technical pen to draw the slots. (Bob Marek)
***I'm doing a Montana and replaced the deck with evergreen
scribed sheet. This can be found at railroad hobby shops.
It's used to make wooden buildings from scatch. Find the
sheets with the narrowest scribing. You won't find it's to
scale but looks pretty good. (SALT 6)
***An interesting idea I've tried with startling results...
Replace the entire deck with real wood.
Model Railroad shops sell scribed basswood sheet that can
easily be cut to fit the hull. Cut the superstructure components
from the model's deck and cement them onto the new deck. Many
of the smaller deck details will have to be scratchbuilt, but
if you're already doing a major conversion this implies you
have the skills necessary.
Before the new deck is glued in place it should be antique
stained. Then give it a coat of tung oil. You will be pleased.
(Dave Wilke)
***Try adding a bit of green and or grey to deck tans. Teak
bleached in the sun fades like anything else. I've seen
elaborate masking jobs painting alternate planks in various
shades of the same base color, but I've never been up to that
task. Dry brushing and washes for raised or recessed details
with black or black/green is my staple but does leave much to
be desired. (Gary Newman)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part05
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part05
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 05) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
18. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
A: There are several ways you can try.
For the mast holes, you could jig up the hull so it's
perpendicular side-wise and inclined to the mast angle, and
drill the holes using drill-press (assuming you have access to
one).
A second possibility is to recognize that a drill will tend to
follow a smaller hole, and a small hole is easier to drill and
align -- make one template with short "legs" that will sit on
the deck and has a center-line drawn on it; make a second
"triangle" for the angle between the mast and the deck (NOT the
base). Use these to drill the "Pilot hole" for the mast, and
then drill it out to size using successively larger drills.
A third possibility recognizes that the real ship did not have a
"tight" hole for the mast to go through - they made the hole
over-size and then used wedges between the sides of the hole and
the mast to move the mast into position. You can do the same
thing by drilling a small hole and making a "stub peg" on the
bottom of the mast, and then enlarging the upper portion of the
hole so that the mast is a "rattling" fit to it. The peg will
then locate the bottom of the mast, and wedges can be used to
bring the mast - at the deck level - to the correct position.
The "mast coat" will hide these. The bowsprite is a different
problem. Much depends on whether the bowsprite heel is "buried"
in the hull, or rests on the deck. If the latter, simply drill
a small hole and enlarge it with a rat-tail file. If the
former, you might want to consider either drilling a series of
increasingly larger holes as in method 2 for the mast, or making
the final hole undersize, and then trimming the heel of the
bowsprit to fit. (John Kopf)
***Drilling oversized holes is closer to the real way of doing
things than is a tight fit, at least for American built ships.
Charles G. Davis describes the setting of a mast in "The Ship
Model Builder's Assistant" speaking to the hole being larger
than the mast, the bottom of the mast from the step to a little
above the deck being cut to an octagonal shape, and wedges
being hammered in between the mast and the edges of the hole to
stabilize the mast in the hole. ( The mast also had a tenon in
its foot that fit into a mortice in the mast step, also for
stability). The hole and mast was then fit with a skirt of
sail cloth and lead sheathing at deck level to seal it against
the weather. Ergo, you can really screw up drilling the hole
and claim it was for "historical accuracy".
In model building though, you usually can't get at the part of
the mast below the deck to insure that it's held by more than
just the deck, so the usual plank on bulkhead builders method
is to put a solid block between the bulkheads where the mast
goes through and rely on a pretty snug fit between the hole
drilled through the deck and block to hold the mast. Given I'm
too chicken to do it "the real way", absolutely the best method
I've come up with for dealing with the setting of the masts is
as follows:
(1) Build a wooden box with open tops and ends that is about
as long as the hull and at least as high as the widest part of
the ship's sides are when sitting on her keel. The unassembled
bottom should be a couple inches wider than the widest part of
the hull since the sides will be mounted on top of the bottom.
(2) Tack some battens on the bottom of the box to receive the
keel, one batten on each side of the keel, snug enough
together so the keel fits between them, but can't walk around
on you.
(3) Put the ship into the slot for the keel, then glue the
sides of the box on so that they sandwich the hull in, and in
an attitude that is plumb to an imaginary vertical line drawn
through the center of the deck and keel. A round bubble level
like is used for leveling kitchen applicances, bridged up on a
couple of pieces of strake stock set equal distance from the
center line of the deck helps if your eye isn't good enough.
Also slide a block of wood under one end of the box to help
center the bubble fore and aft if the drag of the keel keeps
the bubble too far off center. I put the sides on dry, then
tack them with super glue when I have them where I want them.
(4) If too little of the sides of the hull touch the sides of
the box to stabilize it, put some wedges in between the hull
and the box sides, out toward the stem and stern. The whole
point is to get the hull stabilized and plumb, port to
starboard. Once in the box, the hull shouldn't move at all.
(5) Buy a drill press. I kid you not. A passable drill press
can be bought from one of the chain "Builders Square" type of
store for less money than a decent (and not so) ship kit costs,
and certainly cheaper than a fully scratch built hull
calculated at minimum wage. And you can do lots of other stuff
besides setting masts, like small turnings, with it if you
have enough imagination and some sharp wood carvers chisels.
(6) Use a soft pencil with a good point to mark a cross where
the center of each mast should be on deck and an awl to dimple
the deck at the mast hole centers. Check your references,
Davis is good, because masts are not usually evenly spaced,
and if you set them up like pickets in a fence, the end result
may not be worth the effort. If the plans are good, I trace
the deck and mark the mast positions on a piece of mylar, then
cut it out so it fits inside the bulwarks. Makes it easy to
transfer the center point of the masts with an awl.
(7) Also check your plans for the amount of rake each mast
will have relative to a straight line drawn to the average
fore and aft line of the deck (your base line). Typically,
the rake increases as you move aft, and starting with a slight
exageration to the rake is usually a good idea since the stays
will draw them forward if you follow the usual sequence of
setting the standing rigging from the bow working aft. A
protractor based on the deck base line of the plans at the
base of the mast and read on the center line of the mast will
give you the right reading. I've gotten reasonably good
results, at 1:36 and 1:50 scale, by adding one degree to the
measurement I took off the plans. If you really want to get
picky, the rake should probably be measured from the waterline,
particularly if you're working from a table, rather than plans,
but I've gotten by with a somewhat arbitrary base line.
(8) Set the boxed hull on the drill press table and tilt the
table until the deck is level, fore and aft. The bubble level
helps here too, but make sure you put it on the deck at a
place where your base line and the deck are parallel. Record
the measurement on the protractor of the drill press at this
point. This is your base angle for the masts. Note: If you
took your angles from the waterline, you have to adjust for
the difference in angle between the waterline and the base
line.
(9) Add the rake of the foremast to your base angle and adjust
the tilt of the table accordingly. Make sure the adjustment
moves the bow in the right direction for the rake you're
trying to get in the mast.
(10) Clamp a fence to the table top so that when the box is
pushed against it, the drill bit hits the center line of the
deck and the center line is square across the table. If
you're off on this, the resulting angle of the hole will also
be off.
(11) Using a drill bit approximately 1/3 the diameter of the
final hole, and with the drill press set at a slow speed,
drill the center of the foremast hole. Before you touch the
drill bit to the deck, turn the drill on and look at how the
bit is turning. If there's any wobble at all to the drill,
reset or replace it.
(12) Stick a dowel into the hole and see how it looks. This
is your last chance before you blow the whole exercise. Make
sure you check both perspectives, fore and aft rake when
viewed from the side, and plumb when viewed from the bow and
stern. If the bow/stern perspective is off, there's something
wrong with the set of the hull in the box, your fence isn't
square to the table, or there's something seriously wrong with
your drill press.
(13) Work the size of the hole up to the final size with a
drill 2/3 then 3/3 the final size. If the first or second
hole shows some splintering of the deck planks, buy a new
drill bit and/or tape a square of masking tape over the hole
before you move up to the next sized drill. A shredded deck
doesn't add a whole lot to the finished product.
(14) Move on to the next mast hole, keeping in mind that your
measurements of the angle of rake is relative to the base
line, not the last place you had the drill press table set to.
I've been trying to sort out a clamping jig that I could
substitute for the wooden box, but haven't sat down and really
tried to work it out. The box goes together in five minutes so
the incentive hasn't really been there, and the left over box
makes great kindling for my wood furnace.
Also, any legend that has a better method, or is willing to
let the rest of us in on how this might be done without
investing in a drill press, go for it.
Also 2, are the tables published by Davis on rake of mast
really relative to water line or have I missed something in my
reading? (Jack Silvia)
***I built the "Swift" years ago. It was my first plank on
frame effort. What I did wasn't even close to what Don
described, except that I did use a drill. I used a cardboard
template to guide an extremely long 3/16" bit to drill the pilot
hole. The template was cut to the fore/aft angle, the port/
starboard angle was held by eye. I put the hull, minus deck
cabins, into a vise and leveled it. Using the template to
describe the right angle I gently drilled the pilot hole to the
proper depth. I then made sure that this hole did in fact have
the right angles by sticking 3/16 dowel in the hole and
measuring. Seeing this gave me the angles I was looking for, I
increased the drill bit dia. to 1/4" and "reamed" the hole
larger. I then went to the drill bit closest to the mast dia.
and made my final cut. Very acceptable results! (Michael Long)
DETAILS
=======
19. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper about .001 or .002 to
plate the hull a ship model?
A: Call up your local auto parts store (NOT the fuzzy dice dealer
chains) and get a price on shim stock. You should be able to
find it in just about any thickness you want, but it won't be
cheap (sheet copper never is). {mailto:cali...@crl.com}
***Another possibility: Bare Metal Foil - has added copper to
their line of adhesive backed foils. These foils are amazingly
thin - you'll have to have the plastic/wood as smooth as you
want the metal surface to be, but its probably a lot easier to
work than even .001 shim stock. Look for ads for Bare Metal in
your favorite hobby mag. (Don Schmidt)
***Ask your dealer to order you a sheet of Bare-Metal Foil,
Co.'s Copper Foil. It measures 6"x12" and works WONDERFULLY for
coating the hull. (I recommend ordering one sheet (which runs
$6-$8) so that you can try it before you go all the way.) It
usually takes 3 to 4 sheets to cover the entire bottom.
However, I put it on my U.S.S. Constitution and it make all the
difference in the world. It is "wafer" thin, so all of the
surface details on the plastic show up.
BTW, if your supplier can't order it, and you can't get it
through mail order, their address is:
Bare Metal Foil, Co.
P.O. Box 82
Farmington, MI 48332
(William Blakely)
***I've used copper sheathing tape, which is extremely thin and
comes in 1/4 and 5/16 inch widths. If you can't find it, Model
Expo sells it in 15 ft. coils for about $5. Works fine.
(William Nichols)
***Stores that deal in stained glass supplies carry a copper
foil tape in various widths and thicknesses. Already has
adhesive, so just cut to length, peel off the backing, and
apply. (John Kopf)
20. How is the copper applied? I'm about to copper my first ship
and have some questions:
1. What is the best glue to use on the plates
2. How to I age the plates. I wants to make the coppering
look old rather than shiny
3. Do I copper from the waterline down or the keel up (ship
is British circa 1800
A. According to Harold Underhill's "Plank On Frame Models", the
copper was supplied in sheets 48" long and 15-18" wide. It was
laid brick-work fashion, in three "goring belts", with each
piece overlapping the ones below and theone aft. The objective
was to conserve metal, NOT to look pretty.
On a model, coppering looks best if the nail pattern is
somehow embossed into the individual plates -- un-embossed
plates are visually much less interesting. The coppering also
hides the planks, which frankly looks more interesting than the
plating will.
The first step is to apply the copper to the stem, keel, and
sternpost, "running length-wise along them, the side sheets
being turned down round the outer faces...all of which were
then covered by a wrapper plate extending down the front of the
stem, along the length of the keel, and up the aft side of the
sternpost, put on in 4' sections of course".
Next, successive rows of copper are applied parallel to the
keel and running up the stem and sternpost until about half way
up to the waterline.
From the top of the belt at the bow and stern run a fair
batten around the bilge, and mark this line on the hull.
Continue the first belt up to this line, cutting the individual
plates along this line as necessary.
Lay out a second line parallel and below the waterline, two
strips wide (three wide for larger ships).
Begin the second belt as before, starting at the top of the
lower belt but with the individual plates full size. Continue
this up until the top row the plates as necessary at this line.
Finally, install the two (or three) upper rows to form the
third goring belt ending at the waterline.
You will now have three "belts" of plating; the first at the
bottom, the second above "cutting off" the lower belt, and the
third (top) belt again "cutting off" the middle belt.
(John Kopf)
***I use contact cement, particularly Walther's Goo (available
wherever model railroading is sold). I have never had a plate
fall off of this.
Are you starting with individual plates or a whole sheet of
copper. A good way to start making the copper look different
is by heating each individual plate with a propane torch (or
similar device). The plate will discolor and each one will
appear different.
Some washes of white and green over the copper after it is on
the ship will go along way to making it look weathered. Apply
the washes in a downward motion so it streaks from top to
bottom.
Copper the keel, stem, and stern first. Then copper from the
waterline down, fore to aft. Make sure you overlap the plates
slightly. (Dave Loseke)
***I don't know about putting the plates on or which way to go,
but for the weathering, The following worked on a plastic model
with a Copper Metalizer paint. I filled a container with warm
salt water. It must be big enough to set the model in up to the
water line, and I used table salt. I then placed the model in
the salt water up to the waterline. It sat in the water for
about 3 minutes. The model was hung over the bathtub and
allowed to drip dry stern down. This was repeated every other
day for one week. When finished, the hull had been dipped 4
times. I mounted it to the base and continued with the
construction of the deck fittings, masts and rigging. This
took appx 90 days to finish, working about 4 to 5 evemings a
week. By the time I had completed the model, the natural
oxidation of the saltwater on the copper finish had produced a
very worn and greenish looking lower hull. The chemical action
had apparently stopped working by the time I finished the
model, as I did not notice any further color shifts over the
following two years that I had the model in my possition.
(John Huggins)
***why do modelers want to make a copper hull green? did you
ever see a copper hull? When it is new and first done it is of
course copper color. So if you want your model to look new,
leave it copper.
On the other hand, if the ship has been in salt water, and you
remove it, it is a very bright copper color. It only turns
green after its been hauled out and exposed to air for a long
time. An active ship, with a copper bottom has a bright shiney
copper color.
A ship out of the water, high and dry, like maybe CUTTY SARK
will be green. and old model, not properly cared for will be
green. (Ron Ginger)
***I was going to recommend Bare Metal's Copper Foil as well,
but I didn't know if it would work due to the fact that
everything sheet of foil I've seen except for the chrome finish,
is somewhat wrinkled all over, and I don't know if it will lend
itself to chemical weathering, I don't ship model, however, I
liked the propane torch, and salt water tips, very clever.
However, there is a product available (somewhere) that
'antiques' copper to a streaky black finish. I used it in Jr.
High School years ago to age a copper sheet that had been 'awl
punched' with a design. This stuff smells like rotten eggs, and
for some reason, I think it contains ammonia, and possibly
sulfur. (David Cooper)
***To those of you who have been advocating planking solid hulls
- I heartily agree! I would not however, recommend the Elsie or
the Sultana as a first kit to attempt this with, however. Not
because they are bad kits, but because they have painted lower
hulls. With painted lower hulls, the planking will be visible
below the waterline, which is the most conplicated portion of a
ship's planking. Here one must deal with stealers and so forth,
and strong compound curves. Abover the waterline, things are
much simpler.
I recommend Model Shipway's Kate Cory or something similar.
She has a plank-on-solid-hull construction, but she has a
coppered hull. Since the coppering will cover the lower
planking, the lower planking need not be to scale, allowing the
modeller to experiment and learn. The key here is to fill and
sand the lower planking so that the planking pattern will not
show through the (very thin, self adhesive) copper. IMO
coppering is much simpler (if somewhat tedious) than planking.
Remember to clear coat the copper as soon as possible to protect
it from finger prints! It will still age nicely under the clear
coat. (Paul Darrah)
***Came across new idea for coppering for the budget-minded
folks.
Helped young boy build first ship.
Built Pilot Schooner "Hesper" 1/4 scale modified POB.
Excellent plans and booklet by Erik Ronnberg Jr.
I have coppering sheathing of all types, but youngest had
another idea.
Never too old to learn.
Here are the details, and believe me it looks good.
Bought pad of paper canvas (10 sheets $5.00)
Paper excellent texture and tough.
Painted two sheets of canvas with copper metalic acrylic
($1.30 plenty left over.
Applied two coats acrylic waterbase varnish ( $1.50 plenty
left over).
Allow to cure 24hrs.
Antiqued over copper canvas with burnt umber acrylic wash
($3.50 a tube, enough for life)
Antiqued waterline area with a Light Green mixed with little
Burnt Umberwash ($3.50 a tube enough for life)
These washes are easy to control can add more or take away.
Brush on two coats of waterbase varnish. Let cure for 24hrs.
Cut individual pieces from strips or use strips.
For overlap effect press razor blade or similar implement to
back of canvas. Will not cut through.
Can fill ridges with elmer glue to keep shape. Wipe off excess
ouside of ridge. Let dry.
Coat hull with two coats of contact cement. Let dry.
One coat of same on back canvas. Let dry.
Brush another coat of contact glue on back of canvas, apply to
hull in wet state so can adjust plate or let dry and use wax
paper on back and slowly remove.
If contact glue gets on copper side let dry and rub off with
finger or pickup eraser.
Material is very durable and holds excellent. Tested by placing
ship in screened porch through one year of Florida's wonderful
weather.
It looks darn good.
If you worry about the thickness of the paper there are ways
to compensate.
Cost total around $17.00, could get cheaper at x-marts.
Still have enough for an estimated five ships considering the
canvas paper.
I hope someone will try this. I'am very impressed by the
outcome.
Now I ask why the heck did a accumulate so many types of
copper sheathing over the years.
By the way the youngest just turned 14, and here I 'am in my
60's and been modeling on and off for 20+ years. What a ego
booster.
I think shipmodeling in the future will be in good hands.
(Julianne Conklin)
21. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
A: How easy it is depends on what shape you want to cast. If the
object is flat on one side (e.g., water-tight doors), or can be
made as a set of components that are flat and assembled later,
it's fairly easy.
The MAJOR expense is the cost of a can of RTV (Room Temperature
Vulcanizing) rubber...get the smallest can you can find. Your
local hobby shop may have it, or can order it for you. Price
this out FIRST -- then decide if you want to continue!
There are a number of ways to do this; I'll describe one that
I've used. I needed to make up a set of 8 steam cargo winches
for a WWI vintage freighter. Each was essentially a rectangular
frame with various "bits" sticking out here and there.
I decided to break the pattern into 10 parts: base, 2 sides, 2
"cranks", 2 cams, 1 spool, 1 "head" and a gear; these would be
assembled using brass rod.
The base was a 1/2 x 5/8 rectangle of .015 styrene, this had
two 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/16 blocks of styrene for steam boxes glued
on, and some of the steam piping.
The two sides (mirror images of one another) were .015 styrene,
properly shaped. A round boss was added as well as a flange
around the top and side, and a steam cylinder (a turned spool
bedded into a carrier, both from lucite). Also, more steam
piping.
The cranks and cams were 3/16 slices off a lucite rod; the
cranks had a couple of notches filed into the edge to become
"T" shaped.
The spool was turned from 1/4 lucite; it had a slice of a 1/4
10-tooth plastic pinion gear salvaged from a slot car.
The head was turned from wood, 3/16 d x 3/16 long.
The gear was a slice of another, 8-tooth pinion.
NONE of these pieces had severe undercuts!
All necesary holes were located, and either drilled through
(on the thin stuff) or at least "dimpled" to locate for later
drilling.
I next took a piece of scrap plate glass (about 3" x 4" -- I
had a lot of that left over after the last earthquake), and
CA'ed the back of all the parts to it in a reasonably close
pattern.
I made a "fence" from cardboard -- just a box without top or
bottom; approximately 1 1/4 x 2 3/4 x 1/2 high. This was
temporarily taped to the glass surrounding the patterns.
I smeared the inside of the box, the glass, and the patterns
with vasoline thinned with a bit of lighter fluid as a release
agent.
Mix up a small amount of the RTV; try not to get any bubbles in
it. Vibration helps -- try one of the Dremel engravers, or a
jig saw -- anything that will vibrate and shake out the bubbles.
Paint a thin coat of the RTV over the patterns...the thinner
the better to avoid bubbles. Do it again. After a couple of
coats, pour the rest of the RTV into the box level with the
top, and let it set up.
Pry the now-solid rubber block off...that's your mould. The
"top" of the mould should be nice and flat (from the glass),
with the "prints" from the patterns as cavities in the surface.
I used 5-minute Epoxy for the castings.
Again paint the rubber with the vasoline mould release, mix up
a small batch of epoxy (post'em note pads make a wonderful
disposable palette for this) and fill all the cavities. Since
it is clear, you can see bubbles and poke them with a toothpick
or pin. Use an old razor blade to level the top of the epoxy
(that will be the back of the individual castings). Once the
epoxy on the palette is hard, you can remove the castings from
the mould. Being rubber, you can flex it to help get the parts
out.
Warning...the epoxy does tend to stick slightly to the mould.
if there is a bubble in the rubber adjacent to this, the rubber
will tear there and leave the bubble exposed. The next casting
you make from the mould will have tiny "beads" at this sites,
as your casting cavity includes the bubbles which WILL fill
with epoxy. A few of these can be sliced off the parts, but
eventually the mould will become unusable.
How long that takes depends on how much care you took to avoid
having bubbles in the rubber. (John Kopf)
***There are two main mold materials that have very different
applications. RTV mold material is great, you can make undercut
molds. But, it is expensive and has limited shelf life. Other
is plaster of paris. Cheap, but parts must have relief angle,
absolutely NO undercuts or straight sides. Limited shelf life
also, but at price this is not a problem.
I tried to do a zero relief cast of a hubcap that had a short,
straight cylinder. Got the mold off the part okay. Then, put
LOTS of release agent in mold. Still, cannot get resin part
out of mold. Resin castings do NOT SHRINK!
For metal parts, you may be able to get away with straight side
sections in simple parts, as metal does shrink a bit.
But basically, we have the dilemma of an excellent material
(RTV) that is expensive, or a cheap material that limits the
type of parts you can cast. (Don Stauffer)
***Other methods of mold-making and casting include the quick
and expediant method of modeling clay (oil clay) and superglue.
If you need a duplicate of an existing part that isn't too
large or complicated, it can be made of cyanoacrylate(sp?). Get
some modeling clay (the greyish sometimes oily stuff that never
hardens), work it up untill its fairly plyable, then simply
press the part to be duplicated into it to make a simple
negative impression. You might need to try it a few times to
get a clean and clear impression. Then, drip in a bit of CA
glue over the whole surface and then a bit of filler
(microbeads, or for both filler and quick setting, baking soda,
which flash cures the CA). A few more layers of CA and filler
will build up the object to the desired thickness. However, it
works best if you don't rush the process with very thick
layers, as they will be very slow to cure, even with soda or
accellerator. Then, pull the clay away from the object, and
with a bit of paint thinner clean off any clay that is still
sticking to the object and there you go.
(Bev Clark/Steve Gallacci)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part06
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part06
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 8 March 1997
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 06) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
22. Has anybody got a recipe for chemical blackener? (To blacken
brass and other metals) (Havard Houen)
A: Check with your local model railroad store there is something sold
for them already mixed. (Graham Mansell)
***I use gun blue, in north america sold by companies such as
Hopps and available at hardware stores and most sporting goods
stores. Not sure were you would get it in Norway. I can't
remember precisely but I think the main ingredient is phosphoric
acid. The train modelers have a similar product available as well.
I took a quick look through my Walthers catalog but couldn't find
it right off. I think it is called Blacken it or something of
that sort. (Graham Collins)
***"Blacken-It" (or the equivalent) is very effective on brass --
and, as I recall, on copper. It does *not* work on aluminum or
stainless steel.
I learned the hard way that any surface to be blackened must be
*very* clean if a mottled appearance is to be avoided. I always
rub down my parts thoroughly with fine steel wool and mineral
spirits to remove all traces of oil and oxidation before applying
Blacken-It. Any glue on a part's surface will prevent uniform
coloration, of course, and must be avoided at all costs.
I always *immerse* the part in Blacken-It if possible (or keep
the part thoroughly wetted) to ensure uniform coloration.
Different effects ranging from mild blue-black to dead black can
be obtained by varying the amount time that elapses before the
Blacken-It is washed off. The resulting finish becomes very dull
(i.e., "flat") if it's allowed to progress to the "dead black"
stage, but it can be polished easily to a partial or rather bright
sheen by rubbing gently with an old tee-shirt. (Charles Metz)
***Here is the list of compounds found on the label of a bottle of
Blacken-It:
Denatured alcohol, selenous acid & dilute copper chloride/copper
carbonate. The copper chloride explains the light blue color.
(GRN BERET)
***I finally found my bottle of chemical blackener (Hobby Black
No. 1) and the two main ingredients in it are Selenium Dioxide and
Methyl Alcohol. There is also a big WARNING that they are poisons
without antidotes and that vomiting is the only treatment if
swallowed. Great if you don't have small children or barflies
around.
This stuff does work on everything but aluminum and stainless
steel. (Cookie Sewell)
***I get good results by brushing coats coats on, usually
several, that will darken the brass gradually. Dipping the
metal in the stuff often doesn't work.
Over the years, I noticed that different brass fittings
(perhaps made of different grades of brass?) work better or
worse with chemical blackeners. The best blackener I've ever
used comes from a jewlery supply house. (Kerry L. Jang)
***I have had success with most of the available chemicals. My
approach however is to do it in steps. Dip it once to get a
bronze patina. Buff it with a rag to get off any loose stuff.
Then dip it again, and repeat this until you get the shade of
black you want. I too found that if you just soak it for a long
time it just builds up a big thick sooty mess. (Ben Langford)
***I have had success with most of the available chemicals. My
approach however is to do it in steps. Dip it once to get a
bronze patina. Buff it with a rag to get off any loose stuff.
Then dip it again, and repeat this until you get the shade of
black you want. I too found that if you just soak it for a long
time it just builds up a big thick sooty mess. (Ben Langford)
***I bought some brass blackener from a jewelry supply house a
couple of years ago and had a terrible time with it. This,
after chemically cleaning with a bonefide metal cleaning agent,
the object to be blackened. The color, after dipping was
beautiful but rubbed right off. A complaint to the seller
straightened everything out. I was told that the best way to
oxidize brass is to use a very weak solution so that the
oxydizing solution works very slowly and penetrates thoroughtly.
I tried it and it works great. BTW, It is a lot cheaper to
buy the blackening solution from a jewelry supply house. As I
recall a pint bottle cost under $12.00. (Dana L. McCalip)
***For those who have had problems blackening brass as I have
in the past (i.e., the black flakes off immediatly) the solution
is quite simple. Using Dana McCalip's advice in an earlier
message I was able to get perfect results with Brass Black. The
simple answer lies in using a dilute solution...I had best
results with a 1:10 dilution of Brass Black to water. In this
case less is definitly more. Just follow these easy steps:
-Clean the brass with steel wool.
-Soak the brass in acetone for a few minutes.
-Place in a 1:10 solution of Blackener for about 15 minutes
(or two racks of pool for those of you who use a billiard
table to kill time when parts are drying).
-Flush the parts copiously with cold water for a minute or so.
-Place on a paper towel and let dry.
-When dry, spray very lightly with a flat lacquer.
Keep your fingers (i.e. oil) off the brass after the initial
acetone wash. Surgical gloves work well. I believe that the
above steps will work with most blackeners provided they are
allowed to etch and not just oxidise the metal.
Sorry to bother you pros again with this info but I believe it
will be of use to those frustrated novices among us who are
tired of the flaky-black-metal-syndrome. (Greg Herbert, D.V.M.)
***Here are a few more comments on the above topic.
There cannot be too much emphasis placed on the proper
preparation or cleansing of the metal prior to dipping in the
oxidizing solution. One of the best cleaning procedures is a
strong scrubbing with a solution of ammonia, soap and water.
After cleansing, dry with a clean cloth and do not handle or
touch with your bare hands. Handle only on the edges if you
must or with tweezers or tongs, etc.
After the oxidation or surface coloring is complete be sure to
neutralize the coating by rinsing thoroughly with cold water.
An improperly rinsed item will continue oxidising until the part
is a crumbling mass of mineral salts. This happened to the
chain rigging part of the topsail halliards on some of the
models built in the late 1920's for Chicago's Museum of Science
and Industry. All of the chain rigging had to be replaced.
(Dana McCalip)
***On a related topic, polished brass (such as for model mounts)
is best cleaned and then coated with ordinary shellac, with the
brass about the temperature of boiling water -- this drives off
the alcohol quickly, and gives a much harder finish. (And,
you're less likely to get fingerprints on metal that hot!)
(John O. Kopf)
23. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows? I have read about using microscope
slide covers to model windows. This sounded great until I tried
to figure out how to cut the pieces to the proper shape. Every
time I try, I just end up destroying the delicate little square
of glass. (Dan Sullivan)
A. I have not specifically tried to cut slide glass but I have a
stained glass company and at times we have been called on to
repair lead light windows 1mm thin.
Use a good quality glasscutter & make sure the wheel is well
lubricated (dip into thin oil or kerosene if it is not the type
with a reservoir in the handle). You will also need a pair of
grozing pliers obtainable from any specialised glass shop.
For such thin glass make sure it is well supported, like on a
thick wad of newspaper. Glass is a solid but has the properties
of a liquid and will break irrationally if there is uneven
pressure.
Mark with a felt tip where you want to cut (can be straight or
curved). Make one even score preferably without stopping. Never
go over the score twice. Exert just enough pressure to hear a
faint scrunching sound. You are not trying to cut the glass,
just to break the surface tension.
With score facing up, hold the glass in one hand and snap off
the piece you have scored with the grozing pliers by placing the
squared off jaws parallel and close to the score. The pliers
have a right and wrong way up. Instructions are usually on the
back of the pack or ask the assistant to explain as wrong way up
will break the glass unpredictably. The movement is downward
away from the score.
score
|
hold V pliers
------------------v-------------------
|
| break
V downward
This is very hard to explain without a pen in my hand so if you
don't come right please send a fax number and I will sketch the
above. Or contact a local Tiffany or stained glass manufacturer.
You can also buy little glass saws like a miniature bandsaw but
they are pricey and we don't use them as the above method works
fine with practice. (Paul Wilson)
***Place the cover slip on a piece of glass, score lightly with
a diamond tipped pencil and break abruptly over the edge of the
glass. Usually works. Any little peninsulas can be ground off
with a small diamond or abrasive wheel in Dremel tool.
(Clayton Feldman)
***Try cutting the glass underwater. I know that this sounds
strange, but it works. The reason that glass shatters is the
breaking of the glass sets up vibrations in the glass that are
transmitted throughout the glass. These vibrations cause the
glass to shatter. If the glass is underwater, the vibrations are
damped out and the glass will not shatter. Believe it or not, I
once cut a piece of glass with a pair of sissors! The cut was
not clean, but the glass did not shatter. (Tim Philp)
***The best and easiest technique that I have seen and used
successfully is contained in an article by N. Roger Cole,
"Seaway's Ships in Scale", Vol. VI, No.1, page 15. The pattern
is drawn on a piece of scrap wood, the roughly cut coverglass is
secured to that pattern with double sided sticky tape and then
the glass is finished to final shape with a disk sander. Wear
eye protection, avoid brerathing the glass dust. (W. Hannan)
***I just use 10 thousands plastic sheet for windows. Works
great. (Ben Lankford)
***Put the glass on a very hard surface (I've used a steel
plate) and scribe with a diamond or similar point...then finish
the edges smooth on a fine carborundum paper...you'll still get
a lot of "scrappers". You'll find that, when putting them in
place, a fleck of sawdust in the frame may be enough to crack
the glass.
I now use mica instead; it's flexible, can be split to any
desired thickness, can be cut with scissors, and - being a
mineral that is already millions of years old - is unlikely to
decompose. Unfortunately, it's hard to find - check out your
local "rock-hound" shop. (Many of the admiralty models were
glazed with mica, and it's lasted hundreds of years.)
>>>there's now a supplier listed in the FAQ! (John Kopf)
***Please be very careful when grinding the edges of glass with
an abrasive (diamond or carborundum) Eye protection is an
absolute must. (Peter Law)
***Thank you all for many excellent suggestions. After some
experimentation, I have found that the "scribe and break" method
works very well as long as the glass is well supported (I have
been using a steel rule as a base). I use the edge of a sharp
chisel pressed along the desired line to support the glass from
above.
Lacking either a diamond scribe or a Dremel, I resorted to
using the tip of a needle file (the hardest tool I have) to do
the scribing. With care, this makes a nice sharp line, and the
glass breaks off very cleanly.
I would never have figured this out myself; thanks again for
all of your inputs. (Dan Sullivan)
24. I am currently assembling a steam ferry boat model which, as
one can gather from the FAQ, doesn't come with "complete"
instructions. I have been provided with a brass tube for the
ship's smokestack, and brass flat wire to make bands around the
stack. The plans tell me to rivet the ends of the flat wire to
the stack. Rivets were not included in the kit. I have
managed to locate 1/32" X 5/32" copper rivets to accomplish
this task, but have no idea how to actually do the riveting. I
do have experience with larger rivets (patching holes in my
car) but the scale rivets look nothing like the larger ones I
am used to. The scale rivets appear to be nothing more than
straight copper pins with a round head on one end.
I would appreciate any help in riveting the bands to the tube.
(Mark S. Wheeler)
A: Riveting with solid rivets is simple supporting the "head" in
the proper sized holder. If it is a rounded head (I'm using
simplistic terms here, so no smart ass remarks from other metal
workers, please.) you need to support it in a rounded recess in
a steel block to keep from deforming it. Once this is figured
out you either hammer the other end causing it to bulge. Or
squeeze it. Vise grips are good for squeezing rivets. Ideally
the part of the rivet that sticks through the material to be
riveted should be about one and a half times it's diameter. A
properly set rivet should measure one and a half diameters
round and half a diameter high.
(Woody Vondracek)
***A tip in a recent Scale Auto Enthusiast suggested using a
mechanical pencil to cut tiny disks out of aluminum duct tape
(this is actually adhesive backed, heavy gauge aluminum foil -
NOT silver plastic tape - find it at the hardware store). The
details were:
- sharpen the outside of the pencil barrel with a file. BTW,
you can readily find mech pencils (at an art/drafting/
stationery store) in 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 and 0.9 mm diameters, so
you have a choice of rivet sizes.
- put the "tape" on a slightly soft surface, like a piece of
foam, cloth, etc.
- make sure the lead is retracted into the pencil, then punch
it through the foil with a slight twisting motion.
- apply the "rivet" with the pencil, clicking the lead out a
tick to eject the rivet, and as a bonus adding a nice indent
in the center. (Don Schmitz)
***Sounds like it might also be useful for punching porthole
"lights" as well. (John Kopf)
***A clever way to make rivets is to use old fashion (very)
teletype tape as a template. Teletype machines were used in the
50's to transmit messages over phone lines. You typed a message
at one end and the machine at the other end typed out the
message. I believe that beside the military they were primarly
used by the news services hence the name wire service. They
used a paper tape on a reel ot record the message you were
typing out and the tape had a series of small round holes down
the middle so the tape could be tractor fed. Using this tape as
a template and either white or carpenter's yellow glue
(depending on wether not the model will get wet) uniformly
sized evenly spaced rivets can be made. Tape the teletype tape
down and put a small glob of glue over each hole. Before the
glue completely dries lift off the TTY tape and you are left
with a row of neat rivits. Now comes the hard part -- where do
you find TTY tape? I would suggest surplus stores that deal in
electronics, somebody at a local IPMS chapter may have a source
or possibly a hobby shop thet caters to scratch builders of
plastic models.
Good luck. If this technique intrerest you and you find a
ready source for TTY tape be sure and post it to this list.
(Pete Law)
***To make rivet effects on plastic, thin medal, or card stock
I use a dress makers pattern marker. It is a handled tool with
a wheel with spaced teeth on the end. If you look around you
can find them with different spacing useful for different
scales. All you do is invert the plate, mark the rivet line,
and then run the marker along a straight edge. Experiment for
the proper pressure. There is a special made hobby tool (in
different spacing) made just for this purpose. I have just one.
For places where this is not practical, I use a blunted medal
scribber and just push lightly where the rivet should be. When
you glue the plate on you can lightly sand the riveting down to
desired effect as quite often the rivets were ground down almost
to flush or flush.
It's much easier to produce the effect of welding lines on
hulls etc. just by gluing on thin strips of "evergreen strip
styrene" in the appropriate places and light sand down. When
painted it produces a good effect. (Tom Dean)
*NEW* ***For rivets (also bolt heads) I use styrene rod. I drill a
hole the size of the rod plus a thousandth of an inch or so,
then insert short lengths of plastic rod into the hole, securing
with a touch of liquid cement. When dry, I nip off the excess
with Xuron (ModelMaster or Tamiya) nippers to an even height,
then buff them down with a #1800 or #2400 Micromesh polishing
cloth (wet). Use a circular motion, this with round off the
heads (close enough for Gov't work). Time consuming, but it
works! (Art Anderson)
*NEW* ***You can add to Art's technique by letting the rods all
protrude the same length, and then holding a hot soldering iron
near them. They will mushroom out from the heat. I wasn't
convinced that this would work well but it really does, and
makes very consistent rivets. (Robert)
*NEW* ***I have an article someplace in an old SubCommittee Report on
using a "pounce-wheel" to make rivets. It's a hand-held device
with a wheel at the end that has little metal dimples (they
come in different sizes). You run it over thin plastic stock
and it generates rivet heads on the other side. I believe that
The Floating Drydock carries pounce wheels. (Tom Dougherty)
***You can make a "pounce-wheel" by mounting a watch or clock
gear in a slot in the end of a piece of dowel. (John O. Kopf)
25. What is "lead sickness"?
A: Model fittings which contain lead have a bad reputation of
frequently "decaying" after 10-20 years. Current thinking is
that the cause is the presence of Antimony in the alloy. This
metal is used to make the molten metal more fluid. Apparently,
it crystalizes out of the melt as the metal solidifies; the
result is that on the crystalline level dissimilar metals are
in contact (if they didn't separate, the metals would be mixed
at the atomic level). The result is that in the presence of
water (or other chemicals) a galvanic reaction is set up (a
tiny battery is formed) which causes chemical reactions to
occur; the lead oxidizes into lead monoxide PbO, accompanied
by the formation of antimony hydride SbH3 (stilbine) which is
a gas and escapes into the atmosphere. Most "soft" solders
and "type metal" contain both lead and antimony.
An alternative is "Brittania metal" which is 93% tin, 5%
antimony, and 2% copper.
"Traditional" Pewter can contain up to 7% antimony, 20% lead,
4% copper, and the rest tin. Modern Pewter is sold as "lead
free", and so probably doesn't have the problem.
(This description is based on a letter by William G. Webb in
Model Shipbuilder #87.) (John Kopf)
*** for some reason, many lead compounds commonly used in
making model ship fittings deteriorate after 5 to 20 years,
actually turning to a powdery substance. Therefore, almost
every maritime/naval museum I have had contact with specifies
that no lead alloys may be used in construction of models.
Preferred substitute is called "Britannia Metal," and no, I
don't know the make-up, but Bluejacket, among others, advertise
parts in this metal. (RAlcorn824)
PAINTING
========
26. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
A: Indeed, it is an artistic decision that must be made by the
builder. In the same category is whether to paint brass parts.
Very, very few parts on a real ship were brass (bronze, maybe,
but not brass). So, one thing to consider would be consistancy.
Not painting because of the beauty of the construction material
may say no paint on either wood or brass parts.
This is one advantage of building older ships. Many older
merchant ships, and warships earlier than mid seventeenth
century were painted only in a few areas, oiled on top, and
various tallow mixtures applied below the waterline (that stuff
is really ugly if scale!). A similar "artistic choice" is how
to depict rigging. Many modelers do not add sails for two
reasons. One, it is hard to make good sails, second, some feel
the sails hide some of the detail. Yet, the running rigging
adds much detail to ship. So, many people display (particularly
on warships) model with yards raised and much running rigging
displayed, but no sails. Actually, there may have been times
when this was done for a review or special ceremony, but was not
normal. (Don Stauffer)
27. I have recently obtained a Lindburg kit (a pirate sailing
ship called the Jolly Roger). It shows that many portions
of the ship (the picture on the box and in the instructions)
are painted in what I figure is a really dark brown color?
The kit says to paint the hull (below the waterline) white?
A: I am sure it varied with era, country, etc. I do know that
around 16th and 17th centuries wood was "oiled" with various
oils for preservation. One of the popular oils was fish oil!
The oils may have been pretty transparent looking as a liquid,
but really darkened the wood, and it aged darker yet.
(Don Stauffer)
***'White stuff' (yes, they actually called it that :) - a
hideous mixture of white lead and a lot of other unpleasant
things.
Usually 'black stuff' (a mixture of tar and something else)
was applied to the ships instead of the white stuff, as it was
cheaper. Models usually show 'white stuff', simply because it
looks better. (Staale Sannerud)
***The "Jolly Roger" by Lindberg represents somewhat, a design
of the late 17th to early 18th century. It is not meant to be
any type of accurate representation.
Be that as it may, ther color scheme for vessels of that
period are generally stated herewith.
The external color scheme would be a darkish brown for the
upper works and black wales or rubbing strakes. Vessels of
this period used varnishes and oils for protective coatings;
the varnishes being made from resins and rum distillates. The
blackish coating for the wales was made by adding lamp black to
the varnish.
Below the waterline the color was a dirty yellowish white.
This was a mixture of whitewash tallow and sulphur which was
used to prevent fouling by marine growths and barnnacles. Trim
for the upperworks might have been red or blue or other bright
color. The gold trim that is often seen of figureheads, quarter
galleries, and stern decorations was usually just a coat of the
gold colored rum distillate varnish payed over an undercoating
of whitewash. (Dana McCalip)
***Regarding the question about the color of the vessel below
the waterline - Before the late eighteenth century most ships
used tallow bellow the waterline to defend against sea critters
and such.
Tallow included in its ingredients animal fat, and was an off
white color. I've see professional modellers use everything
from very pale beige to pure white for this. The actual color
probably varied over time, and the specific ingredients very
likely depended on who was applying it, when, and where. In
other words, pick an off white color that looks good with your
model.
Something else to keep in mind - most ships dating to periods
where tallow was used - and even later, actually - are known
sketchily at best. In other words, take the painting
instructions with a grain of salt. There are typical color
schemes, however, and many libraries contain books with photos
of model ships (wooden). Find several pictures of several
vessels from the era represented by your vessel and look for
trends. I suspect that most of the dark brown areas on your
model represent stained wood, while the red areas represent
red-painted wood (probably bright red). Over all, the ship
should have a dull to semigloss sheen, eggshell prefered.
(P. Darrah)
***Towards the end of the American Revolution a probable and
most likely color for an American or British warship, privateers
included, would be as follows:
Hull below waterline Tallow
Above waterline Yellow ochre
Wales Black
Hancing pieces and top two or Black, red or blue
three strakes below cap rail
Stern Yellow ochre, with
central panels a
contrasting color such
as slate, red, blue or
black
Bulwark interior Indian red (Floquil
boxcar red)
Hatch coamings Red or brown
Bitts, kevels, staghorns Bright
or any wooden fixture
for belaying
Pump barrels Red, black bright
Gratings Bright
This color scheme is pretty generic and keeping in mind that
there were no rules dictating particular color schemes during
this period. Colors were chosen based on what was on hand as
well as what was durable and economical. (Dana McCalip)
***What is "Bright"? ==> "Bright" means varnished wood; often
5-6 coats of varnish; often glossy. (Dana McCalip)
28. Any suggestions on painting the simple Cutty Sark that is now
underway? I painted the hull and found that the Testors paint
is difficult to use and not see brushmarks...but it is
acceptable as it is...I guess if I am not using an airbrush
that I will see brushmarks...Anyone done this kit? Any advice?
(Ron Giuntini)
A: I've built the Scientific CUTTY SARK and a few others besides,
however, the last time I did a Scientific kit, the hulls (and
much of the other wood parts) were Balsa. I hope they've moved
up to Bass Wood by now.
The first thing I would recommend is to loose the enamels. They
are way too glossy and "plastic" looking for a static sailing
ship model.
One of the best painting/finishing techniques I've found is
based on the use of a good indoor semi-gloss polyurethane sealer
( I like DEFT, but anything along those lines will do) and
Flo-Quil Railroad colors. Before you do anything, do a test
patch to make sure that the polyurethane you're using and the
paints are compatible (that's one reason why I like Deft, it
is). You'll have to mix colors to get the exact shade you're
looking for, but with a little practice, they will produce more
accurate colors for period vessels, than just about any hobby
paints on the market, with the possible exception of the old
"ground in Japan" coach colors, or modern water based artist's
acrylics.
The technique is to first apply a thin coat of the polyurethane.
When completely dry, sand with fine wet/dry paper, wipe off the
dust with a damp rag and apply a second thin coat. When that
is thoroughly dry, sand and wipe that as well. You may find it
necessary to do it a third time, but any more than that and
you'll likely start to obscure detail. Two coats is generally
enough. When the polyurethane is cured, brush on the top coat
of Flo-Quil color. When dry you will see that there are
virtually no visible brush strokes left. I have been using this
technique for more than 15 years and so far have seen no
evidence of peeling, bubbling, flaking or any other sign of
incompatibility. Adding a couple of drops of Flo-Quil Crystal
Kote helps give the paint finish a nice eggshell quality. The
polyurethane gives the added advantage of strengthening the
finish and hardening the surface of the model to impart a degree
of resistance to dings, as well as to reinforce joints.
(Jim Roberts)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part07
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part07
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 07) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
29. Am modeling a Fletcher (Revell 1/305) and was wondering if
anyone could offer some up to date colors, FS numbers, etc.?
A: Floquil has come out with a series of WWII marine paints that
match USN colors:
a. Navy Blue 5-N - (Floquil) 818598 \
b. Ocean Gray 5-O - 818596 |
c. Weather Deck Blue 20-B 818600 |
d. Haze Grey 5-H 818594 | - these are the Floquil
e. Deck House Blue 818704 | part nos.
f. Pale Blue 5-P 818590 |
g. Light Grey 5-L 818592 /
Tom Walkowiak runs The Floating Drydock, a model
shop/reference house (?). He has a vast library of photos of
USN vessels, and can provide 8" x 10" glossies for given hull
numbers and time periods. He also sells U.S. Navy Camouflage
& Markings for $7.99, which lists all the camouflage patterns
used by the USN during WWII. His address is:
The Floating Drydock
c/o General Delivery
Kresgeville, PA 18333
I have his U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings book. The book is
a fair compendium of everything one would wish to know about
U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings in WW II. However, if your
worried about ABSOLUTE ACCURACY, you need to determine which of
the hundreds of Fletchers you'll be doing - the camouflage
patterns vary. In fact, The Floating Drydock also sells (for
a few bucks, I think) a list of most USN WWII vessels with the
camouflage measures that each had during the war. The Floating
Drydock sells camouflage sheets for most measures and ship
classes. (Rob Robinson)
***I have both, along with their color chipset. The C&M book
is very useful for things you don't think about until you get
there like the horizontal colors, both decks and undersides of
whatever. Highly recommended, and I only wish there was
something like it for other navies.
BTW, the list of USN vessels/measures is only for those in
measures 31/32/33, not 21 or 22. And they don't mention the
time period. Since ships seemed to change colors like new
dresses, ...
Per the aforementioned "USN Camouflage 1 of the WW2 Era" from
Floating Drydock:
- "After [1946-47] almost all vessels adopted Measure 13,
solid haze gray (5-H) as peacetime paint", until the next set
of regulations came out.
- After March 1953, use either Measure 27 (same as 13, above)
or 17 (also known as 14) which uses Ocean Grey vice Haze Grey.
For both these measures, "all steel decks and all other
horizontal steel surfaces exposed to aerial observation shall
be painted either smooth dark gray deck type A or non-skid
dark gray deck type B. All overheads and the undersides of
all other external horizontal surfaces shall be painted glossy
or base white".
In other words, just like a modern ship, except for details of
the color shades and masting. (Allan "battleships!" Plumb)
***Try Alan Raven's "Fletcher-Class Destroyers", available from
the Naval Institute. There're four different camo schemes
sketched, which show Port and starboard views, deck views, and
sections showing mount & superstructure faces.
{mailto:00jeg...@bsuvc.bsu.edu}
***Two good refs: Flush Decks & Four Pipes (a classic, now in
2nd edition, and probably available from USNI, Annapolis, MD)
and "The Destroyer Campbeltown", by Al Ross, one of the
"Anatomy of the Ship" series from Conway Maritime Press /
United States Naval Institute (depends on which continent you
call home).
BTW, new and very excellent reference volume on Gearing/Sumner
class DD's just publiched by USNI. Author is Bob Sumrall, one
of the curators at the USNA Museum. Expensive book, but
Nothing Else Even Comes Close!!! Lots of excellent photos,
drawings, including color renditions. My Dad (departed now
nearly 30 years) was Propulsion Systems Engineer for members of
the class built by consolidated - I have lots of original
white-lines on the ships. Sumrall's book is as good as, if not
better, than having *all* the original documentation, because
he goes into as-built, as-employed details. (RAIcorn824)
***I was struck by how dark gray all the ships were. In most
color photos, US warships seem to be painted light to medium
gray. The color I saw was much darker. Floquil produces a
line of Naval Colors and a close match seems to be Floquil
818652 Battleship Gray FS1640 (yes, 4 digits). (Martin Sagara)
***Nope, the right color is "haze gray", H-5. It probably looked
darker because the weather in Norfolk is usually pretty lousy.
Go to San Diego and you'll have a confirmation of what I'm
saying. (Paolo Pizzi)
***Paolo is right..haze gray is very light, and to my eye, has
no blue tones in it. I served on a San Diego Spruance, and a
color photo of me conning it under the Golden Gate bridge is
right in front of me...the haze gray is slightly darker than
the radome grey, but definately not a medium gray.
Besides, the same color on a model or miniature will look
darker, so go with the H-5 Haze Grey. I do not recommend the
Battleship gray - way too dark. (Byron Bond)
30. What colors to use on the Revell(?) PT-109?
A: I purchased the Bluejacket 1/48 scale wood model of PT109. It
blows the Revell Model away but still your kit is pretty
accurate. My plans have excellent information about paint.
If you are painting the boat from when it was manufactured to
before JFK took command you would paint it as follows:
1. Deck and all upper surfaces: Dark Gray 5D. This can be
duplicated with Floquil 818646 "Navy Dark Gray".
2. Hull: Navy Gray (a). This can be duplicated with Floquil
818650 "Navy Light Gray".
3. Below Water Line: Coperoid. This can be duplicated using
Floquil Boxcar Red 110074.
If you are painting the boat after JFK took command you would
paint it "MTB Green". This can be duplicated by mixing 4 parts
Ocean Green (5-OG) Floquil 818606 to 1 part Navy Green (5-NG)
Floquil 818608. The Bottom was "Coperoyd" and can be duplicated
using Floquil Boxcar Red 110074 (Railroad Color). (David Waples)
***You are absolutely right so here is a repeat of the e-mail I
sent to Scott.
The colour was a Military Green, from the colour photo's I 've
seen it could anything from a Forest Green to an Olive drab.
Take into account the effect of Sun, salt water, paint variations
and the quality of the photos I don't think anyone could say
"that's wrong".
P.T. 109 was nicknamed "JFK" which was usually painted on the
for'rd deckhouse below the spray screen. 109 did not carry the
large pennant number on the bows, but small numbers appeared on
the front of the wheelhouse, the .50 cal mounts and around the
base of the 20mm mount.
Recommended reading is U.S. P.T. Boats of WWII by Frank. D.
Johnson. Which has 2 excellent photo's of 109 lashed to the
deck of a Transport. and seems to show she was green before
shipment to the Pacific. (J.L. Pickstock)
31. ***The following section is contributed by Jon Warneke:
USN Camouflage Measures
The U.S. Navy of WWII developed numerous camouflage measures
for its ships. These were numbered from 1 to 33. These
measures were contained in a manual known as SHIPS-2,
distrubuted by the Bureau of Construction and Repair (BuC&R),
USN.
1. SHIPS-2 was first distributed in January 1941, containing
Measures 1 through 9. The colors used for these measures
are as follows:
Light Grey 5-L (replaced Standard Navy Grey of the prewar
period)
Ocean Grey 5-O
Dark Grey 5-D
Black #82
White 5-U
All of these colors were mixed from base colors of white
and black, forming greys of varying hues. The measures which
used these colors are as follows:
Measure (Ms) 1: Dark Grey System. All vertical surfaces
Dark Grey 5-D below the funnel tops, Light Grey 5-L above the
funnel tops.
Ms 2: Graded System. All superstructure parts 5-L, hull
graded with 5-L the top band, 5-O the middle band, and 5-d on
the bottom band. Each band is to be of equal width.
Ms 3: Light Grey System. All vertical surfaces Light Grey
5-L.
Ms 4: Black System. All vertical surfaces Black #82.
Ms 5: Painted Bow Wave. To be used with Ms. 1, 2 or 3, but
not Ms. 4. Upper edge of the wave is to be painted in 5-U,
and the body of the wave in either dark blue or 5-D
Ms. 6 through 8 were to use paint to made a ship look like
another (i.e. a Omaha-class CL look like a four stack DD)
with the color of the deception to be the opposite of the
general color of the ship (i.e. the ship painted in 5-D would
use 5-L for the deception).
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Paint the entire area above
the waterline black.
2. SHIPS-2 was revised in September 1941 after testing found
that blues were more effective in camoflauge than were the
greys of the Jan. 1941 edition. The new colors were as
follows:
Haze Grey 5-H
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same as above)
Sea Blue 5-S
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The colors were mixed from 5-U and tinting material known as
5-TM (Author's note: I am unaware of any references
available to the modeler of the actual tint of either 5-TM or
20-TM, which was used for making Deck Blue). The measures
which were authorized under the Sept. 1941 edition are as
follows:
Ms 1 through 8: Discontinued
Ms 9: Same as above
Ms 11: Sea Blue System. All verticle surfaces Sea Blue 5-S
Ms 12: Graded System. Paint hull 5-S to the level of the
main deck (Carriers to the level of the hangar deck). Paint
superstructure to the tops of the funnels Ocean Grey 5-O.
Above the funnels Haze Grey 5-H.
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. All verticle surfaces Haze Grey
5-H.
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. All verticle surfaces Ocean
Grey 5-O.
In all measures except Ms. 9, the decks were to be painted
in Deck Blue 20-B.
3. In June, 1942, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced, using the same ingredients as the Sept 1941
edition. The colors authorized were:
Thayer Blue 5-B
Haze Grey 5-H (not the same tint as above)
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same tint as above)
Navy Blue 5-N
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The measures authorized under this edition are as follows:
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Same as above
Ms 10: Gray System for Subs. Paint all surfaces above
waterline 5-O
Ms 11 and 12: Discontinued
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. Same as above
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. Same as above
Ms 16: Thayer System. For use in arctic regions. All
vertical surfaces White 5-U with patterns of Thayer Blue 5-B.
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Paint all vertical surfaces Navy
Blue 5-N.
Ms 22: Graded System. 5-N from the waterline to an
imaginary line parallel to the waterline which runs through
the deepest part of the main deck, 5-O from this point up.
4. In March, 1943, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced again. The colors authorized were:
Pale Gray 5-P FS 35526
Light Gray 5-L FS 36320
Haze Gray 5-H FS 35237
Ocean Gray 5-O FS 35164
Navy Blue 5-N FS 35044
Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042
Dull Black BK FS 37040
(The FS numbers are estimates based on the author's
comparison of color chips to FS chips. The new Floquil Marine
colors provide the builder with accurate representations of
these colors.)
The Measures which used these colors are as follows:
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Same as above
Ms 22: Graded System. Same as above
Ms 23: Light Grey System. Paint all vertical surfaces
light grey, and paint the undersides of all overhangs White
5-U.
Ms 31: Dark Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of 5-H, 5-O, and BK.
Ms 31a: Dark Pattern System. Same as Ms. 31, except that
5-N replaces BK.
2 color schemes used 5-H and 5-N
3 color schemes used 5-H, 5-O, and 5-N
Ms 32: Medium Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and BK
3 color schemes used 5-L, 5-O, and BK
Ms 33: Light Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and 5-O
3 color schemes used 5-P, 5-H, and 5-N
Measures 31, 31a, 32, and 33 were used with various geometric
patterns that were assigned design numbers reflecting the
pattern and what type of ship they were created for. Thus
"Measure 32/18d" would use the colors of Measure 32, be
geometric design number 18, and have been designed for a
destroyer ("d"). Decks were to be painted in 20-B, but many
Ms. 31 and 32 designs also had patterns of 20-B and 5-O on
the decks.
Also authorized under this edition were green colors for use
on ships. These colors corresponded with the blue colors
and were:
Pale Green 5-PG
Light Green 5-LG
Haze Green 5-HG
Ocean Green 5-OG
Navy Green 5-NG
Deck Green 20-G
These colors can also be found in the Floquil Line of Marine
Paints. The greens were interchangable with the blues in the
measures, but were mostly used on amphibious force units and
coastal forces.
5. Upon the end of the war, most of the dazzle measures were
discontinued, and those ships were repainted in Ms. 13. Other
ships in Ms. 21 and Ms. 22 remained in those mesures until
about 1947 or 1948 when they were also repainted in Ms. 13.
***I cannot give you FS numbers (The colors were of a type that
don't fit the FS well) but I can give you some info.
Deck Blue 20-B Stain is of the same color as Deck Blue 21-B --
Well Matched by Humbrol's #79 Blue-Grey or available in
Floquil's new Military series.
Navy Blue 5-N, Ocean Gray 5-O, and Haze Gray 5-H are all
available in Floquil's series, or can be mixed. I've used the
mixes I got from a Scale Models series, which are given here
with new Humbol designators.
--Navy Blue: 2 Parts #104 Oxford Blue to 1 Part #176 Neutral
Grey/Lt. Grey
--For Ocean and Haze Gray, mix a stock of 2 Parts #104, 1 Part
#67 Tank Grey, and 1 Part #34 Matt White.
--Ocean Grey 5-O: 1 Part of Stock + 1 Part #34.
--Haze Grey 5-H: 1 Part of Stock + 4 Parts #34.
I use disposable Polyethylene transfer pipettes as droppers,
which I buy from a scientific supply house in my area. I mix
in the bottles Testors sells five in a package.
Colors you didn't mention are:
--Sea Blue 5-S (and Blue Flight Deck Stain #250): Mix 1 Part
Navy Blue 5-N to 1 Part Ocean Gray 5-O is the best look I've
gotten.
--Markings Stain Gray 251: Same as Ocean Gray
--Light Gray 5-L: 1 Part of Stock + 10 Parts #34
--Pale Gray 5-P: 1 Part of Stock + 25 Parts #34
Sea Blue was a prediscesor of Navy Blue. CV-2 Lexington was
in this color when sunk, the CV-5 Yorktown's lower hull was
still painted in it at Midway, and so forth. It was starting
to be replaced by a darker color in the Atlantic even before
Pearl Harbor, the darker color becoming Navy Blue 5-B officially
in June 1942.
The lighter flight deck stain was introduced in October 1941.
The Markings stain was used with it in solid lines, but often
Chrome Yellow (FS 13538 - use 33538 for scale) was used in
blocks, giving the dashed look familiar in photos. Later in
the war you will have to look carefully, since Chrome Yellow,
White, and 251 stain were all used on the carriers' flight
decks for the markings.
Light and Pale Grays were used in the dazzle camouflages of
the 1943-44 period, along with Dull Black, Navy Blue, Ocean
Gray, and Haze Gray.
All of these colors would fade rapidly, and be hard to paint
back on the hull regularly. For fading effects, the blue hue
was lost fairly quickly, leaving a lighter, grayer tone. The
black faded to a medium gray over about 6 months, though it
stayed the darkest color in the camouflage, just to give a
point for relativity. (Mark Shannon)
***Modern USN ships, in peacetime, are Haze Gray on hull and
superstructure vertical surfaces. Decks are Deck Gray (what
else!), which is slightly darker and tends to have a little bit
of blue in it, but fades quickly to a gray not much different
than Haze Gray.
Note that there is a 'non-skid' coating on the <metal> decks
where foot traffic is expected which is a very dark gray (not
quite black) when new, but fades within a couple of months to a
dark gray - but still noticably darker than the metal deck gray.
Generally, all main deck have this non-skid, except the f'ocsle
area forward of the breakwater. Superstructure decks are painted
metal (deck gray), with 36"-48" wide non-skid paths between
ladders and doors.
All masts and equipment above the funnels, and the funnel caps
themselves are flat black. There are specific exceptions for
radomes (usually left in a light or gull gray) and some
parabolic fire control radars. (Byron Bond)
***According to "The Painters Guide to WW2 Naval Camouflage",
U.S: All horizontal surfaces (metal) were to be painted in Deck
Blue (20-B). Carrier decks were stained 20-B since stains could
provide color while retaining the non-skid feature of fir decks.
Striping was a stain which matched Ocean Gray (5-O).
Japan: Flight decks on carriers and other vessels were initially
in natural wood tan...usually faded to light gray. During 1942,
wood flight deck planking was replaced by a reddish brown
compound material (Floquil #303367 US Earth Red, and 303126
Panzer Red Brown are close). Deck markings: elevators gray,
sometimes outlined in yellow. Aft ramp had alternating red/white
stripes running across ship, circle as aiming point for landing
planes.
Comments: The book has more detail, although it is somewhat
generic. Japanese carriers had green islands on occasion. And I
thought the US had mahogony decks too. I wondered what happened
to all of thos Douglas firs. (Bob Sigman)
32. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
Okay: How do you do it? I can see that once I assemble my
1/350 DD, BB, and CVE and add all the details, adding the
camouflage measures will be very difficult. How do you mask
fine photo-etched details without breaking them? Is it
necessary to cave in and use a brush (which will reach around
some of the obstructions)? I am a new air-brush user trying to
plan ahead, and I'm darned if I can see how it's done. I want
to add three- and four-colored 1944 camouflage measures to a
Fletcher DD and a Casablanca CVE but I cannot see how to do it
without marring the result, either by over-spray or by pre-
spraying sub-assemblies and then "touching up" after final
assembly. Please, a few hints for a newbie from some of the
more experienced hands? (Rob Robinson)
***I don't do modern warships myself, being more the sailing
man-of-war fan, but from what I have read in magazines, etc. on
the subject, I guess that the best thing to do is to complete
the basic structure of your model (hull, funnel, superstructure,
gun turrets and so on) and camouflage it *before* adding all
the fancy detail.
Of course, this leaves you with the problem of painting the
fancy details...:) (Staale Sannerud)
***Pretty easy, you paint the "fancy details" with a fine brush
after you've airbrushed the rest. (Paolo Pizzi)
33. This section was provided by Seth Adams.
Here is some information I received from Testor as to paint
conversions for a Tamiya 1/350 USS New Jersey (modern). I am
sure that the same colors can be used for other US warships.
Tamiya Number Name Model Master #
X-10 Gun Metal 1795
X-13 Metallic Blue Closest: 2701, 2702, 2703
XF-1 Flat Black 1749
XF-2 Flat White 1768
XF-7 Flat Red 1705
XF-10 Flat Brown 1701
XF-19 Sky Grey 1728 Light Ghost Grey
XF-24 Dark Grey 1741 Dark Ghost Grey
XF-50 Field Blue No close match
XF-53 Neutral Grey 1725
XF-55 Deck Tan 1742 Dark Tan
XF-56 Metallic Grey 2711 Anthracite Grey Met. or 2712
Graphite
Metallic
XF-63 German Grey No close match
XF-66 Light Grey 1732
34. I'd like to mount a pair of models on a mahogany base under
plexiglass. But the real sticker here is how can I simulate/
duplicate the wake(s) that two ships puttering at 30 knots
through calm seas would generate? (Michael Wolf)
A: Not really answering your direct request (but that never seems
to stop other posters !!) I simulated the calm see on a 1:700
scale model of the Tamiya HMS King George V using cellophane.
I wanted to depict her at anchor, with an awning over the
fantail and ships boats scurrying about.
I took a suitable baseboard and roughly painted it in gloss
sea blue. Before the paint dried I got some thin blue cellophane
from an art shop and crumpled it up into a tight ball. Then I
unwrapped and pressed it down onto the blue paint.
As I couldn't get rid of the creases, I was left with air
bubbles between the cellophane and the paint, so that I had a
dark blue colour where the cellophane stuck to the paint and
lighter colours where the bubbles were. The effect was most
realistic and looked just like deep water with the creases in
the cellophane acting as a slight swell.
I suppose you could then add the wake using coloured gel or
something. (Ken Duffey)
***Artist's acrylic gel medium is the best I've ever seen for
water. I tried resin once, it got so damn hot chemically curing
that it melted my ship model. The gel medium is cool, no
problem. There have been at least 2 articles, in past issues of
FSM, I think on using this stuff. So go find your issues and
read. I won't tie up the net with how to use it.
(Raymond J. Mehlberger)
***Most people use acrylic gel and it works fine with larger
scales (1/350 and up) but IMHO it's too coarse for 1/700. I
used very successfully alluminum foil (you have to make it into
a ball and then spread it on the base you want to use, wood
preferably) painted with dark blue and medium green (both
glossy) sprayed at the same time from two airbrushes (spray
cans would do the same I guess...) To create wakes use ordinary
(white) toothpaste, possibly the cheapest crap you can get for
less than a dollar from Pic'n Save or similar stores.
(Paolo Pizzi)
***I've seen some fantastic dioramas done by Ken Hart of
submarines. Ken uses something called "water glass", which is
the wavy stuff you can get at art supply shops and glass shops.
He actually "glues" it to the base with a thick coat of blue-
green paint, after an initial coat of paint (Both coats on the
bottom side). After gluing the waterline ships to the glass,
he depicts wakes by using 2-part epoxy, which conducts light
and looks remarkably like a ship's wake. He spreads the epoxy
"wake" with a toothpick. See FSM's "Modelling the Second World
War" for Ken's submarine harbor scene. Although the subs are
not "underway", it illustrates how realistic this approach
looks. (Tom Dougherty)
***Try using acrylic gesso. Found at art supply stores, it is
similar to acrylic gel, only gesso is pigmented, it is like
really thick paint. It has a mayonaisse consistency. There is
a dark greenish blue color that should be adequate for the base
color. Just put it on thick with a large brush, and work it
into wave and wake shapes, then stiple it with the brush to
remove brush streaks. After it dries, drybrush it in the usual
manner. Very easy and effective in 1/700 scale. (J. Gordon)
***That works, but I was in the local art supply chain
yesterday and found a new line (or they just started to carry
it!) of Liquitex products:
Liquitex Texture Gels
The line is an assortment of modelling-type mediums. I bought
4....Black Lava(7108), Resin Sand(6608), Natural Sand(6508),
and Blended Fibers(6708). There were several others, 7 or 8
total with other textures. I paid $6.55 each for an 8oz tub.
I haven't had the chance to do anything with them yet, but the
texture on the sample card was amazing. The Black Lava would
make great rocks, etc. for land diaramas, esp. for Pacific
island beaches. I plan to use the Blended Fibers to make
bow/stern wakes. The Natural Sand will make a good prop wash in
the wake as it is very rough and looks 'bubbly' on the sample.
The Resin Sand will make good waves and general water. These
products are water clean-up, but is "water resistant when dry"
meaning you can use the acrylic paints to detail the water's
colors once the base coat is done. (James Corley)
35. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals? I'm building an
hh-60.
A: Superscale #109 carries US Coast Guard markings for the HC-130,
HU-16 and HH-3F. You may be able to adapt these markings for
the HH-60 (if it's not the most recent paint scheme you're
looking for). (Abe Lynn)
***A generic set of Coast Guard markings are available on
Super Scale sheet No. 72-109. Hope this helps.
{mailto:pbo...@kalmbach.com}
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part08
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part08
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 08) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
RIGGING
=======
36. What can be used for fine rigging line?
A: Traditionally, linen thread has been proven in use for hundreds
of years.
***I went through the same thing and finally found *the* answer:
nylon monofiliment fishing line. Use 1lb test and drag it across
the top of a permanent ink marker to blacken it, then attach
it w/super glue. You get the tension, it won't pull loose (well,
not easily) and it looks *great*! (Alexander Ishii):
Mono fishing line is available in different colors, including
"black" (no real need for using the permanent marker).
Generally, however, the various colors are more expensive than
regular fishing line; particularly, if the color is only
available as "tippet" material (a particular kind of fishing
line).
***You can also use fine wire. One source I've found locally
(silicon valley) is a "pulse transformer"...these use copper
wire .005 (more or less). They are frequently encapsulated in
epoxy, but the shell can be broken off and the wire salvaged.
I've not used it, but I understand that tungsten wire is made
for light-bulbs in sizes down to .0005 inch! I also understand
that it is dangerous to work with, because it is so strong that
the possibility of amputation is very real! The ultimate in
"paper cuts". Anyway, one might be able to get a couple of
feet of this from a light-bulb manufacturer and try using it.
Of course, how do you CUT it? (John Kopf)
***Yesterday I went to a fly fishing store to get some rigging
material. They carry a product called "Tippet line" or something
like that. Its a monofilament and you can get it in various
widths. I bought two spools; one was .003" (8X) and the other
.005" (6X). The spools at the place I went (Kaufman's Streamborn
in Seattle) cost US$3.75 each and carry 30 meters of line per
spool. In other words: enough.
I wandered around the store some to see what other things might
be good. I found lead wire of various diameters there also. I
bought two spools of that; one .01" the other .02" for US$1.50
each.
Check out your local resources or Kaufman's has a mail order
service. You can call them at 1(800)442-4359 or FAX (503)
684-7025. (Stephen Tontoni)
***There is not one supplier of ship model rigging line that
sells appropriately sized line for ratlines; it is all too
heavy! The only source I have found for ratline material are
the shops that cater to the fly fishing folks that tie their
own lures. There is a thread on the market that is composed of
a synthetic fibre that comes in varying diameters down to .004.
It also comes in a variety of colours inclusive of black and
ecru. The brand name to ask for is UNI-THREAD. It makes great
looking ratlines and is pre-waxed.
Over the years there has been much discussion about the use of
silk thread for the rigging of ship models. It was always the
same old story; it will rot, decompose or deteriorate. Until I
found out about this new UNI-THREAD, I had been using silk fly
tyers thread for ratlines. This is about 35 years of dead
serious and active ship modeling! Not once did I ever have a
problem with fibre deterioration! If you have an opportunity
to pick up some fine silk thread for ratlines and seizings,
don't hestitate, It will serve you well. (Dana McCalip)
37. How does one assemble rigging?
A: Normally, one does the "standing rigging" (that which holds up
the masts, etc.) FIRST, and then the "running rigging" (that
which works the sails -- these lines are the ones with PULLEYS).
Because of the complexity of the rigging, it's best to start at
the bottom and center and work your way up and out...if you put
the outer lines on first, then you have to work THROUGH them to
reach the inner lines.
When possible, it's best to apply as much rigging to a mast on
the workbench BEFORE actually mounting it on the model, and
then finishing it off. "helping hands" are useful for such
tasks as putting strops around blocks, but not much help when
working on the model itself. A couple of hemostats (I find mine
at the local flea market) are useful, but I tend to use them
most to attach to the end of a line as a weight to keep it
straight while working on it. Tweezers are also useful, and
a couple of other tools you can make yourself out of knitting
needles and dowels for handles:
take a needle, mash one end flat, and file a V in the end --
useful to PUSH ropes; Take another, mash the end, and drill a
small hole through it -- useful to thread a line through the
hole to work a line through the rigging; Take a third, flatten
the end, and file a hook on one side -- useful to PULL a line
through the rigging.
***Some of the best little tools I have ever used on boat
rigging came from my mom's sewing basket! Needle threaders are
invaluable for threading the rigging through eyelets. A good
pair of tweezers is a help, but the best kind are the
"reversable" tweezers, the kind that apply pressure when you
are NOT gripping them. Great for guiding tricky threads.
Finally, a good pair of manicuring scissors for the fine
cutting and clipping needed. I have a pair with points so tiny
on them that it is hard to see the cutline they make.
(Aaron Taylor)
38. How do I install ratlines?
A: My current practice is to install the masts without the yards
but including any masthead platforms. After installing the
shrouds in a prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge
needle I can lay my hands on to sew the ratlines through the
shrouds. In any reasonable scale the prototypical knots will
be virtually invisible if you are using appropriately sized
thread. After the tedious sewing job is done I brush a semi-
gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing of the
shrouds. This also cements the ratlines into place permanently,
so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the
paintbrush!
Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white
glue and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an
advantage (but real ratlines were NOT straight -- they hung in
curves between the shrouds). (John Bonnett)
***Here are some things I have picked up over the years.
Most shroud/ratline jigs, or preformed shroud/ratline sets,
don't really work all that well. It is very hard to get uniform
tension when installing them. Go for true, independent shrouds
and ratlines.
Get a book on rigging - several books on model ships in my
local library have sections on rigging.
Tools -
Several sets of tweezers, including; long set, and
"normally closed" ones.
A hook. Something like a crochet hook (I make my own
out of coat hanger wire, pound the end flat and file
in the hook).
A fork, about same length as hook, made same way.
Both hook and fork should be six to eight inches long.
Work sessions. Do not work too long at any one time, even
when more experienced. If I have not been doing ship rigging
for awhile, I limit myself to 1/2 hour sessions. Never more
than one hour at a time.
Simplify rigging. For a novice, concentrate on standing
rigging. If you are not going to be adding sails, the ship
would appear as in port, or at anchor for an extended period.
One can then omit much of the running rigging. If you do a
fair job at the standing rigging, adding just a minimal running
rigging can result in a very nice looking model.
One problem on plastic models is that you cannot put as much
tension as you might like on lines. So getting EVEN tension is
important. HOWEVER, if you look at photos of sailing ships in
their day, only navy ships were all square and nice. Masts
were really askew on many merchant ships. So if your masts
look more like corkscrews, just claim it is prototypical.
(Don Stauffer)
39. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud?
A: Futtock shrouds are terminated at lower ends in a variety of
ways, depending on which mast, and how large a ship. For
larger masts they usually were NOT tied to shrouds of mast
below. (Don Stauffer)
40. Why do I have more lines than points to belay them? (Ben
Langford)
A. The lack belaying plans on late 18th and early 19th century
vessels has always been a puzzler.
On small vessels does a line really have to belay to a pin?
What about cleats, especially shroud cleats. About 10 years
ago my wife and took a holiday up on Georgian Bay and visited
Penetanguishene, Ontario. There they have a privately run
historical tourist attraction called the The Historic Naval and
Military Establishment. This, on the site of the old Royal
Naval Base and Military Headquarters for HM Forces during the
latter part of the 18th Century. On the site was an old
building which house a treasure trove of artifacts consisting
of ships rigging gear, tools, etc. all of the period. There
were dozens of shroud cleats on hand and partially hewn bitt
heads. All acceptable substitutes for belaying pins.
Some years ago Chapelle and I were discussing belaying points
on small vessels such as schooners and the like and he indicated
that at times it was not uncommon to take a line around the base
of a deadeye. As long as it would hold and could easily be let
go was his only criteria.
As far as more than one line to a single pin I have always
heard that that is entirely OK and the rule I have been
following is related lines are OK for a commmon pin. That is
to say a bunt line and a clew line for the same sail could be
put on the same pin. It stands to reason when the buntline was
let go, the clew would be also. (Dana L. McCalip)
***Another belaying site in this era- at least in the smaller
vessels I have been interested in, is the shroud-lashed pin rail
secured above the deadeyes at about chest height. A very fine
depiction of this format can be found in Merritt A. Edson, Jr.'s
three panel drawing "A Rigging Plan for the Shoreham Cutter, c.
1765, published in "Seaways' Ships in Scale", Volume 4, Number
2, March-April, 1993, on page 73. (Clayton A. Feldman)
***RE: schooners. I just finished restoring a model of a 1930's
schooner yacht. I went crazy trying to figure out the belaying
points for this relatively simple vessel. Chapelle says one
thing (primarily about fishing schooners), and other references,
like Edson's book about the Bluenose, said something else. No
reference I could find (and my library is admittedly incomplete),
had a clear explanation or even generic plan for belaying points.
I even looked at kit plans (such as, for a Revenue Cutter and a
Baltimore Clipper), and they were hard to figure out, incomplete,
or conflicted with what other plans said. I'm sure part of my
problem was that I was looking at references for different
periods and for different types of schooners...but I was
desparate!
Some old full-rigged ship models I have repaired clearly have
some lines "attached" to the shrouds.
Boy, it sure would be nice to have some clear plans for each
basic kind of vessel...at least for schooners and ships. Couldn't
some basic rules of thumb and a generic plan for each type be
presented? (David Blanchard)
***On the Star of India, launched 1863, an iron hulled bark, we
only doubled the bunt lines on a single pin. Shroud cleats, deck
cleats, etc.. were only used for temporary belaying such as
cargo handling or re rigging. I also researched and built a
model of her ,circa 1910, and the rig was almost the same. When
she was launched, she was a full rigged ship, and even then
didn't double up lines. From '89 to '93, I sailed three times
and never encountered a reason to double up lines. When Turner's
Bounty was in San Diego, we were asked to bend on a new foresail
(her crew didn't know how) and they had many lines doubled on
belaying pins. It was a nightmare trying to work that way and we
were tied to the dock. I don't see how they sailed that way. In
an emergency, the only thing to do would be to cut the lines, and
then control would be gone. (Bob Cunningham)
***James Lees' book, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of
War 1625-1860 says that belaying pins in shroud racks dates back
to about 1745 on small ships but was not seen on larger vessels
until the end of the 18th century.
Steel's, "Elements of Masting, Rigging and Sail Making" 1794
edition mentions wood and iron belaying pins and the use of
shroud racks but does not mention the size of ships they were
used in. An interesting note is that Steel describes iron
belaying pins as being tapered from the middle towards each end
and driven into boards, called racks. Taken literally, this
sounds like a different shape then what we are used to seeing.
(This is my own comment)
Keep in mind that all of this refers to English practice and
one is left in the dark about American or continental European
practice. It might be almost safe to assume that American
practice could be somewhat similar, given no other information
being available. (Dana McCalip)
***Course sheets are held as far outboard as possible. In many
cases, there is a relief in the bulwark just to accomadate the
lead of the sheet. It was held as far aft as possible. It's
unlikely that a course sheet would be belayed at either fife
rail. (Jim Eagle)
***When I mentioned pins I meant to include both pins and cleats.
Sometimes there is not enough of either one. I also get puzzled
with ships that have cleats on one mast and a fife rail on the
other, yet the two masts have basically the same rigs aloft.
With these inconsistencies there is absolutely no way you can
belay lines in the same location at the two masts. (Ben Langford)
***I'm no expert on period ship rigging, but I am an ex-USCG
Barque EAGLE sailor.
I can understand how difficult it would be to bend on a new sail
with lines doubled up on pins. That operation, however, is
somewhat unusual, and doesn't directly relate to day-to-day sail
handling operations. EAGLE has a pin for every line, but in a
pinch, we could have gotten by with some lines doubled up, such
as the buntlines on the royals, t'gallants, and topsails.
Obviously, certain lines (halyards, lifts, sheets) would need
their own pins to be accessible during normal and emergency
operations. Tending the bunts and clewlines while setting sail,
for example, is a fairly simple task. All you need to do is
ensure that the lines run freely, and don't foul in the blocks.
When setting the royal or t'gallant for example, one person
would handle the 3 lines on the port pinrail (bunt,bunt,clew)
and another would handle the stbd side. This freed up everyone
else to help on the halyard, where they were needed when trying
to set the sail with just the 10-12 man watch section.
So, while modern practice does not necessarily mean anything
when looking at period ships, I do believe that certain lines
could have been doubled up on pins and still handled safely.
(Bill Michaels)
***A very interesting thing I ran across when doing the Bluenose.
Gloucester schooners had shroud bars with pins which gave them
plenty of pins to belay. The Bluenose did not use shroud bars at
all, so they really restricted themselves. Luckily I found
enough pins in the pin rails with some doubeling up.
The problem with a generic plan is that you may illustrate it
with enough pins, then when you do your ship which has less pins
you are stuck again. There are some plans around in books and
NRG that give you a general idea. NRG shop notes has the
Constitution and I think a whaler. For fishing schooners you
have Chapelle, so there are those, but as I said I still get
lost on a particular ship. Out of necessity I have to belay a
line where it probably should not go, but what do you do when
all the other pins are used up. I try to juggle back and forth
but this changing drives you crazy.
I made a mistake. I meant to say topsail sheets. They do come
down to the fife rail or could go outboard. The point I was
trying to make is that if you belay the sheets on the forward
cross bar at foremast, and then must belay to the side rail at
main since there is no forward rail, then you have a difference
in the location at fore and main masts.
(Ben Langford)
***According to RC Anderson in "Seventeenth Century Rigging", he
shows as typical at least until the early eighteenth century, as
many as three lines on a pin (e.g. spritsail topsail sheet, spt
tops'l clueline, spt buntline). There were also cleats & kevels
(sometimes lashed to the yards). (Dale Elhardt)
***I participated in the partial re-rigging of the Lettie G.
Howard, a Glocester fishing schooner now at South Street Seaport
Museum in New York City, back in the lates 60's. I don't recall
that we had any difficulty finding adequate belay points for her
even though she did not have pin rails on the shrouds.
(Fred Petillo)
41. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
A: Try washing the thread in warm soapy water, rinse it out, and
hang up to dry with a weight on the end so it doesn't develop a
lot of kinks. This will remove any "sizing" that makes the line
stiff. The alternative is "spinning" your own rope from fine
threads -- this is a lot of work but results in very "limp"
rope. If neither of these work, you may also be able to mix up
white glue and water with a drop of detergent (as a wetting
agent), soak the thread, and while still wet apply it to the
model; then let it dry in place using a piece of scrap as a
"form" to give it it's shape.
42. Does anyone have any really good ways to get the fuzz on model
rigging (silk, nylon or cotton) to lay down and smooth out
without varnishing the threads so they become stiff and shiny?
(Robert Godfrey)
A: The traditional method is to draw the lines through a lump of
beeswax; this will bond all of the fibers to the line.
On the other hand, if you're talking about lines ALREADY on a
model, that IS a problem. You might want to try dissolving
some beeswax in turpentine, and paint it on the lines.
Beeswax can be found in fabric / sewing stores - used to
smooth and lubricate sewing thread. (John Kopf)
***Your friendly neighborhood notions shop (i.e. Jo-Ann
Fabrics, So-Fro, or any others of that ilk, to include Wal-Mart)
sell a bee's-wax applicator just for waxing thread. It takes
off the fuzz, gives it a semigloss shine rather than a bright
shine, and leaves the thread pliable and fuzzless. They run
less than two bucks. (Cookie Sewell)
***The conventional way is to run the line across the edge of
a beeswax block, For very bad line, run the line *quickly*
through a candle *flame*, then do the wax treatment.
(Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***How about pulling the threads across a wax candle and then
running them between thumb & finger?
(Simon Craven)
You could try Armor All or a like product. It has worked for
me when cleaning up older uncased models. (J. J. Gordon Jr.)
***You can also find wax at any store selling fly fishing
equipment. It is also used for waxing the thread when tying
fishing flies. (Sten Ekedahl)
***Well, what about "painting" each line with a diluted
solution of white glue? This should "harden" any fuzzballs to
the point where they'd be easier to trim, and any shininess
could be defeated with dullcoat. (John Beaderstadt)
***Thanks for the several responses and good ideas. As John
Kopf observed, I was talking about rigging already on a model,
which, as he says, is quite a different matter and more
difficult problem indeed. For example, I don't know about the
burning off fuzz with a candle flame on the rigging of a
finished model, although the idea sounds good if one were
compelled to use fuzzy line so bad beeswax wouldn't smooth it
down. (Robert Godfrey)
43. Could someone 'in the know' give me advice on how to build small
blocks for model sailing ships? I'm talking about blocks about
1/16 - 3/32 inch in size. What's the recommended technique, what
type of wood is best, etc?
A. Get a long piece of strip stock the same cross section as your
block should look. For instance, if you want a block to be
3/32 high and 1/16 wide as viewed looking straight through the
hole then get a piece of 3/32 x 1/16 x 12 strip stock (or cut
your own!). Round the edges of the strip with sand paper.
Drill the correct number of holes into the stock from the end.
Drill only deep enough to cover the depth of a couple of block.
This will insure that the hole(s) run true. If you try to do
too deep the holes will wander off center.
Now for each block (I usually do 3 - 5 at a time) make a score
around the strip stock to create the groove for stroping the
block. What you are doing is working down the strip stock
creating a few blocks at a time. It is easier to work with
them on the strip.
Now cut each block out seperately and round with sand paper.
Finish with stroping of your choice.
v v v grooves around strip for strops
------------------------------
! ! ! |
==!===!===!== < hole
! ! ! |
-----------------------------
^ ^ ^ cut here when grooves are cut
This is a very simple method but it works for me. If you can
get the hole to run true you can mass produce a number of
blocks at a time this way.
Boxwood is a nice wood to work with but I have has success with
basswood using this method. You need a fine grain so the wood
won't splinter when you drill the hole. (David Loseke)
***Personaly, I cheated and bought the ones for my model of
HMS Victory from Model EXPO. They list single sheaves down
to 3/32. I found that 1/8 was the right size for a 1/98 scale.
(George Wallace)
44: In the past I have left sails off my scale ship models because
I have yet to find a suitable material to make them out of.
If anybody has any suggestions, I would appreciate hearing
them. (Chuck Cowman)
A: A traditional material is "drafting linen"; fine linen cloth
'sized' with starch...just wash the Heck out of it and iron it
flat.
Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to find these days,
having been replaced by drafting mylar. (John Kopf)
***We static modeling type use drafting linen. Should just be
perfect at pond scales. The sizing needs to be scraped off
after boiling, though. The linen can be lightly spray-starched,
cut into bolt-wide cloths and sewed together full-size fashion.
It's great stuff. (Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***On really small scale ships Tissue paper that you find in
shoe boxes can work well if your really careful. You fix them
to yardarm jig, turn on a fan, and set with a clear lacquer.
In larger scales I've used fine linen hankys with some sucess.
These can also be set on a yardarm jig.
{mailto:star...@tir.com}
***I think I just found a solution to this very problem. In my
case it was a set of sails for a RC schooner. I couldn't get
the sails right. I used a tight weave cotton, pure white.
Then to get the ribbing I traced the lines I wanted with a
pencil and sewed along them. Then I dyed the lot with some
stale coffee to get the right color. They really look great.
The only part I'm not satisfied with are the edge seams which I
did with a hem stitch. When I find a way around that, they'll
be perfect, but for now I will say that they look really good.
There is also a guy in rec.models.rc.water who makes sails for
people...you can look him up. (David Shein)
***You forgot to tell what scale your sailing ships are; that
makes a lot of difference. For actual pond sailing models
(about 30") of Gloucester fishing schooners I have had good
success with some plastic cut from shopping bags - not the
opaque white or colored stuff but there are some made from a
transluscent (not transparent) sort of gray, tough plastic that
is quite thin. The nice part is that you can use cement rather
than sewing. I lay a bolt rope around the edge and cement a
folded over hem leaving cringles at the corners. Such sails can
be reefed when desired, are light, do not absorb water and
avoid making the boat top heavy.
For ships in bottles, of course, nose tissues work well, can
be stained with tea, stiffened a bit with thinned shellac, and
can be drawn upon.
Unless you are working on a very large scale I expect it would
be hard to find a fabric with fine enough weave and then sew it
finely enough to avoid getting out of scale. (Albert P. Rauber)
***A good friend of mine here does commissioned fine model work,
RR, ships, etc., name is Mark Antczak. You should see his 1/4"
scale Constitution, built as launched in 1797, with the original
stern architecture. Mark has been building for 20 years, has
seen most of the better museum and some of the private
collections, so I value his choices. The best material he's
found for this scale or larger, is a fine cotton shirt cloth
with a subtle, raised ribbing about 3/4" spacing, which
effectively simulates the sewn seams. The source is from the
menswear national chain, Custom Shop Shirtmakers (although
there are not many - sorta like if there's a Brooks Brothers
nearby, there may be a Custom Shop, too). Mark stains the cloth
with tea or other dyes, before cutting the pattern, (washes and
irons it to stabilize it before the above steps) For smaller
scales, some papers may be better. (Bill O'Neil)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part09
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part09
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 09) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
45. What is the best material for sails?
A: The traditional source of sail material ("Drafting Linen") is
now almost unobtainable (replaced by drafting mylar). It was
a very fine fabric, but tended to yellow after a few years (I
have a model that has become dark brown.) A fabric sold by
some of the hoby suppliers as "Balloon Cloth" is really just a
fine canvas, and unsuitable for most work. (John Kopf)
***The following material was provided by William E. Boebert,
Historian, U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group:
Finding authentic cotton sailcloth for our vintage pond boats
has been a problem since the formation of the Vintage Model
Yacht Group. Bill Bithell, the 80-something years young builder
and sailmaker, used the last of his 1939 bolt of cloth to make
twenty sets of sails for the boats that showed up at the 100th
anniversary regatta of the Marblehead Model Yacht Club in 1994.
(But there were scraps to use to match possible "hits"). After
that the search was on, in the US and overseas, and led me and
the other Group Historian (Charley Williamson) on a merry chase
through mills, defunct suppliers, the Smithsonian, ant the
American Museum of Textile History. Finally, a message to this
list triggered a web search which lead to a supplier in, of all
places, Annapolis Maryland. This person also has some material
which may be of interest to the scale crowd. But first ....
A couple of messages have mentioned "balloon cloth." Herewith
the official description, from an airplane maintenance textbook
of 1940:
"Balloon fabric is used in several applications in aircraft
such as pliable backings for package racks, hat racks, etc.
Light cotton gauze, woven tightly and with great precision, is
run through a rubber mill; the crude rubber is squeezed
throught he pores of the cloth and sheeted on both sides. The
rubber is then vulcanized. The threads per inch in warp and
filling vary from 120 to 140 .. the weight of two-ply balloon
cloth is generally 11 ounces per square yard."
Obviously, what we wanted was the material before the
rubberizing process. Not only was this cotton tightly woven,
but it was also made from "long staple" cotton. This is a
special breed of cotton with unusually long fibers. Varieties
are called Egyptian, Sea Island or Pima cotton.
Two things that are *not* balloon cloth: Grade A Aircraft
fabric, which is long staple cotton woven 88 threads per inch
and subject to a strict FAA certification process (and extinct),
and the stuff from Model Shipways I got from Dromedary, which
is about 60 threads per inch.
In the course of our search we turned up a suppliers catalog
with swatches: the material varied from 82 to 126 threads per
inch and 2 to 6 oz per square yard. We got aced out of the last
of mill's run of "down cambric" (a glossary of cotton cloth
terms is at the end of this message). This is a lightweight
cotton cloth used for down pillows and comforters -- the tight
weave is needed to keep the feathers from poking through.
Well, after another bunch of adventures we located some down
cambric in the UK, which was awkward to purchase but at least
available. Then a message to this list mentioned swiss pima
batiste. Did a web search, and got a hit on Kiyo Designs of
Annapolis (http://www.kiyoinc.com/fabric.html). After a bit of
conversation and exchange of samples, Nancy Hoyt (who runs the
place and *really* knows her stuff) found the following
candidates:
Poplin, 150x70 threads per inch, natural
Broadcloth, 150x90, natural (which looks like the stuff for us)
Batiste, 100x100, white
Lawn, 150x150, white
Everything runs about seven bucks a yard (45" wide) except for
the lawn, which is thirteen (same width). All would be suitable
for scale work, being at least twice as fine woven as the Model
Shipways material, fine enough to be translucent. The lawn, in
particular, looks pretty good for furled sails -- it's very fine
and tightly woven. The batiste is a more open weave and would
look good for sails in older boats.
Nancy did a fair amount of digging to find this stuff for us,
and I hope that this message doesn't trigger an avalanche of
one yard orders which would be more trouble for her than it's
worth. The best thing would be if one of the suppliers who are
on this list would buy a bunch and resell it.
Appendix:
Definitions lifted from The Internet Centre for Canadian
Fashion and Design - The Textile Dictionary
(http://www.ntg-inter.com/ICCF&D/cotton.htm)
* Batiste
Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen
weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles
nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost
transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and
mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In
a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and
linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design.
Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in
weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by
slubs in filling direction.
* Broadcloth
Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool
broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a
very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide
loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either
carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less
twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib
and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count
ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a
smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is
often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality
or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from
Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in
plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
* Cambric
Fibre: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached
or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on
the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a
smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and
fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and
finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen
and used for Church embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's
dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.
* Lawn
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Word derived from Laon, a city in France,
where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight,
sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than voile but not as
crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky
feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white
or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a
soft feel and slight lustre it is called nainsook.
Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains,
lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings,
handkerchiefs.
* Poplin
Fibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.
Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or
three times as many warp as weft per inch.
Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than
broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high lustre. It
may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or
printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for
outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier
wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and
some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth
shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms,
draperies, blouses, dresses.
* Sailcloth
Fibre: Cotton, linen, nylon.
Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary,
but most often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to
withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for
clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than
used for sails.
Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men,
women, and children.
OTHER STUFF...
==============
46. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
A. This topic has been discussed regularly in the Journal of the
Nautical Research Guild.
Edward P. Von der Porten, former director of the Army, Navy,
and Coast Guard Museum near San Francisco says "A museum
quality ship model is whatever a museum director accepts for a
museum collection". In general, the model (or artifact) must be
able to convey part of a carefully thought out STORY to a
thoroughly analyzed AUDIENCE. If the exhibit concerns ship
"crafts", sailor-built models, half-models, and ships in bottles
may have a role, even if inaccurate.
In a diorama (for example, in the 2-MILE section of Omaha Beach
to be displayed aboard the Jeremial O'Brian, using 1:1200
models), a uniform scale is important (for this example, detail
is not).
On the other hand, Dana M. Wegner reports that the standards
used by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively
unchanged since 1945:
o It is reasonable for a model to last 100 years before
deterioration becomes visible. Resistance to actions of
temperature, humidity, and light is essential...some recently
developed model-building materials and techniques should be
avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate
their longevity...It is advised that fiberglass resins,
styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate
glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
o 'Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with
the best model-building practices. Hulls shall be smooth,
fair, and symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool
marks, and shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface.
Machined parts shall bear no tool marks. Castings shall
contain no visible mold marks.'
o Any item with any SCALE dimension of 1/8" or greater must be
reproduced...work must be consistent [no super-detailing of
one part of the model contrasting with lesser levels of detail
elsewhere].
o A great deal is specified about acceptable and required
materials (e.g., 'Propellers should be cast in bronze...
Plastic propellers are not permitted').
o 'Painting of models shall receive careful attention...All
parts of the model shall have a surface treatment representing
the actual vessel if reduced in scale...models shall be spray
painted with opaque lacquer. Paint shall be applied thinly
and evenly so that fine detail will not be obliterated. The
use of metallic paints such as silver or gold is discouraged.
The use of white enamel or natural varnish is not permitted'...
'Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled and primed so that
when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.'
{ The full set of specifications can be found in: Department
of Ship Model Scales and Service. Ship Model Classification
Guidelines [Mystic, Connecticut: Mystic Seaport Museum Stores,
1983] It was also published in part in Ships in Scale 6-34
(March/April 1989)} -- what this all boils down to is that the
purpose of a ship model is to support a coat of paint of the
correct SHAPE! (John Kopf)
*** Write the Mystic Seaport museum. Their definitions are
pretty close to universal, from my experience. By the way,
they also sell your ship models "if" they meet the standards.
Basically, Kit bilt, kit modified,, kit-bashed and completely
scratch. Restrictions also on materials, adhesives, etc. It's
worth the stamp for the information. check your local library
for the mailing address. "directory of American Museums") --
(RAlcorn824)
47. I have a 24-inch wood scale model of a Baltimore clipper that
has accumulated a layer of dust, etc, over the past three
years. Is there any way to clean this (full rigged) model.
One way I was told was to immerse the model in warm soapy
water, then in warm rinse water. However, I have used non-
waterproof glue in building this model. Any one out there have
alternative suggestions? Thanks {mailto:radi...@aol.com}
A: NO NO! Don't immerse it! There are three main regions you
need to clean, and each requires a different technique.
1) Hull. This is usually not the worst anyway, but a damp (not
wet, damp) rag with just a drop of soap is fine here.
2) Decks, Deckhouses. If you have an airbrush, use it with
just the jet of air. Simultaneously, sweep surfaces VERY
carefully with soft camel hair brush.
3) Rigging. Use airbrush as above. Only very reluctantly, use
a small brush for any really stubborn pieces of lint or dust.
But be even more careful than for deck areas.
If you do not have an airbrush, go to a photo store and buy
one of those cans of compressed air used to clean negatives
before printing. (Don Stauffer)
***I have been watching conservators working on ship models in
the museum I work at. They use one of the cheapest cleaning
fluids available - saliva. Basically, you use a cotton swab on
the end of a toothpick (Q-tip), roll it on your tongue and wipe
the model gently. It takes a while, but you will find it works
amazingly well. It also will prevent water from destroying
your wooden model that may (probably will) happen if you
immerse it in water. I would say that a few hours of
saliva/cotton swabs would be well worth the effort if the model
is valued by you and I bet it is.
These are my views and not the museums. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***I would be concerned that the enzymes in the saliva might
eventually do harm to organic materials...remember the 5th
grade science demonstration where we were each handed a cracker
and told to chew it up and then hold it in our mouth for 5
minutes? The enzymes started turning the starch into sugar.
Might not the same thing hold for cellulose (perhaps working
slower)? (John Kopf)
***The enzymes in the saliva break down relatively quickly.
When you use this technique, you only use a "very" thin layer
of saliva. (I'd hate to see a big old greener on the ship).
The saliva dries in a matter of seconds and leaves only minute
quantities of enzymes. The enzymes themselves only attack
starch molecules and convert the starch to simple sugars.
Saliva should not pose any harm to wood if used in application
I described earlier. As long as the paint is not water based,
(or used starch) there should be no damage.
Interesting comment though. I might see what our conservator
has to say about about a lot of expectorate on a wooden ship
model. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***Just a reminder: Few if any animals have cellulose. Both
bovines and termites depend on microorganisms in their gut to
turn cellulose into simple sugars. The likely problem with
using saliva instead of water (deionized or distilled) is that
a dried mucous film may make the next layer of dust cling a bit
more tenaciously and tap water (like the hard water here in KY)
may leave a mineral haze. (Dean Warden)
***Keep on cleaning with those paint brushes. I have read
articles where modelers claim that they have cleaned rigged
models with a garden hose, or dunked them in the bathroom, all
with no damage. Frankly, I don't believe them.
Soft, small brushes will loosen the dust so that it can be
removed with either a) a small vacuum cleaner or mini-attachment
for your regular vacuum cleaner; b) a can of compressed air,
though you are right to worry about blowing parts off -
experiment first on your hand; c) air from an airbrush, which
can be directed and controlled with much greater precision than
an air can; d) your own breath, which is gentle and precise.
For the rigging, use a 1" wide, soft artists' brush. Go
carefully and stroke along the length of the line and not
across it. If the bristles catch on anything, you are much
less likely to pull a line loose that way.
If you have stubborn dirt on the hull, fittings, or any other
hard piece, try using a small piece of paper towel rolled into
a cylinder about the diameter of a pencil. Wet the end with
water and rub gently. If that does not work, try the same
technique with turpentine, but not on a painted part. If all
else fails, gently scrape off the offending spot with the edge
of a curved hobby blade. I use the paper towel instead of a
Q-tip, since the Q-tip will leave small fibers of cotton on the
model, which you will then have to remove.
For the rigging, if all else fails, give it another coat of
clear finish. This will trap the dirt on the line and will give
it that "realistic" look of working rope.
Finally, put your models in cases. Over time, the dust and
dirt will adhere to your finish and will not be removable
without major disassembly and restoration. A case will also
protect the delicate spars and rigging from inquisitive young
fingers and the occasional house pet.
Keep at it, and good modeling. (Dan Pariser)
***I use an air compressor to remove sawdust, etc. throughout
the entire modeling process. I use the compressor (on low air
flow) right up to the point of dusting before putting my models
in a case and I have had good results. I feel if something is
going to blow-off, it's not properly fastened! (Jeri Koering)
48. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
A: There was some interest expressed a few days ago in using the
modern reconstruction of the eighteenth century English frigate
"Rose" as a subject for shipmodeling. My caution is that since
the Rose is a reconstruction rather than a replica (that is,
a general rather than an exact copy), she is not a good subject
for modeling. It would be better to go back to the builders
original research materials, starting with the British Admiralty
plans of 1756, obtainable from the National Maritime Museum at
Greenwich.
For a very interesting article on the building of the
reconstruction, see "HMS Rose and Providence, Some Lessons
Learned the Hard Way", by John Fitzhugh Millar, in "Seaways",
Vol. II, No. 5, Sept-Oct 1991. You can find out about the
modern ship (or even book passage!) at:
HMS Rose Foundation (203) 335-1433
One Bostwick Ave
Bridgeport CT 06605
***On the net, try: http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html .
(Clayton A. Feldman)
49. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
("The Gallery" in Galveston buys and sells only ship models.
The director was the only person I had success locating that
appeared to be able to make an appraisal and issue a certificate
that an insurance company would honor. They appear to be a
reputable outfit and have advertised for quite some time in
"Seaway's Ships in Scale" magazine. IF he is qualified to
perform this duty via photos, I would rather spend $50 and know
my ship is insured than not. I was hoping to hear from others
who may have references for other appraisers and their
respective fees, etc. Although I have never had a model stolen,
I have had plastic models destroyed in moves. The government
only paid the cost of buying a new model, not for the time and
other expenses involved, which is understandable.)
A: Most appraisers are NOT familiar with ship models! As a result,
their "Appraisals" must be taken with a grain of salt. There
are specialists who can do a good job, but they're hard to find.
Several are listed in the FAQ, and if they are not conveniently
located they may be able to steer you to someone in your area.
The fee for an appraisal varies, but is frequently some
percentage of the appraised value. (John Kopf)
*** Tricky question, because it's not a heavily populated field.
I would suggest more or less in order the following:
1) curator(s) of the nearest maritime or naval museum.
2) curators of other such museums.
3) Southeby's or other international auction houses. ((Expect
to pay a bill around 10% or the appraised value))
4) Owners/operators of specialty shops in the area
(particularly if you live or sell in a maritime area like
Annapolis, Baltimore, Boston, Charlestown, ...San
Francisco, etc.) If there is a 'port' or 'maritime museum'
nearby, someone has experience selling models.
5) A bank located near a port or historic port area - offer
them one as a 'visual enhancement' to their lobby, etc.,
and find out what the traffic will bear. (RAlcorn824)
50. I'am looking for a tried and true sub plans, preferably, but
will accept any info or suggestings on model subs. All info
will be appreciated.
A. OK, model subs... As with everything else, depends on what
you're after. There are very few polystyrene kits of US WWII
subs (Revell Lionfish) and several 1:700 scale modern subs of
both US and Soviet (Russian) build. There are a few
polystyrene kits of WWII U-boats, type VII and XXII. Both of
these are available with internal components that are displayed
through cutouts in one side. In resin, MB (Blue Water) makes a
series of kits including WWII Gato class, S boat, and a number
of modern subs (SSN, SSBN and Russian Kilo diesel boat).
Supposedly, Tom's Model Works is going to release a resin of
WWII diesels that can be built as Gato, Balao or Guppy versions.
Also a rerelease of the Nautilus (SSN-571), in polystryrene.
If you want to do your own through plans or get a really
large size hull (1:96), contact the Floating Drydock in
Kresgeville, Pa. They stock plans for a large selection of
subs and fiber glass hulls (not cheap) for building your own
WWII diesel boat. (Tom Dougherty)
>>>When it dives below water, and you can't see it, what do you
do? Just drive around under water, not kowing where the sub is
or what it is doing, until you decide to surface again?
***This is one of the two most often asked questions about R/C
submarining, the other being "How does it receive radio signals
below the surface?". First, depending upon the clarity of the
water you can easily see the sub at periscope depth (one reason
why we usually have raised scopes), and even lower depths close
in to shore. If you go under too deep then you either surface
(if it's an "active ballast" boat) or you "plane" it to the
surface using either bow or stern planes. In either case, if
the sub stays down too long you want to "blow" ballast, or if
it's a dynamic diver, just stop the motor and let the positive
ballast bring it to the surface.
Second, depending upon the chemical composition of the water,
the boat will receive signals down to as much as ten feet below
the surface if it's fresh water, and 3-5 feet it it's salt
water or chlorinated pool water. (Kerry David)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part11
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part11
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 11) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
55. How do I carve a solid (or bread and butter) hull?
A: The following reply is from William E. Boebert:
1. Background
This message is in response to the question on the list about
how to carve a hull, which I think is not only an important
skill, but also an excellent way to develop "an eye for a ship,"
that is, an intuition for the form of a hull. The technique I
will describe was taught me by a pattern maker and master model
builder many years ago. It's one of those things that is a
lot easier to grasp by watching and doing than to describe in
words. I'll do my best, not with the idea of showing off or
proposing a frustratingly high standard of craftsmanship, but
rather in the hope that it may help others turn what appears
at first to be a daunting task into one of great enjoyment.
This being the Net, I am sure that others with more experience
will chip in (pun intended) and the different viewpoints and
discussions will be of even greater help. My experience is
almost exclusively in carving "yacht-like" hull forms, but the
technique should be of interest to carvers of "ship-like" hulls.
(Well, maybe not supertankers, but certainly clipper ships.)
2. Laying Out
I will assume that you are starting with a typical "precarved"
hull. I haven't looked at one of these in a long time, but I
doubt that they have changed much: just a block of wood that
has been hogged out by an automatic carving machine to a rough
form around 1/8" to 1/4" larger in all dimensions from the
final shape.
The first step is laying out a set of reference lines to use
in forming the final shape. This is the first place to make
a significant error (been there, done that, got the firewood
to prove it). If you carve to a wrongly placed set of
reference lines you can find yourself "running out of wood"
somewhere along the line. If you visualize the final shape
as a kind of phantom hull lurking inside that block, to be
uncovered by carving away. You want that phantom to be in the
middle, so that there is roughly an even amount of wood to be
removed all around. Since you are carving from the outside
in, if you place your patterns incorrectly you will be
defining a phantom that is too high, or too low, or cocked
at an angle (my favorite mistake) and there won't be enough
wood left around it to produce the proper shape.
To draw these lines I prefer the Micron Pigma line of
drawing pens that are sold in most art supply stores. These
lay a very fine line with little or now pressure required.
To position the lines you will need three things: a flat
surface, a clamp or cradle to hold the block upside down, and
a simple surface gauge. The flat surface can be any table or
workbench. I find it is best to make a special clamp to hold
the hull rather than jury-rigging something from C clamps or
carpenter's clamps. The clamp should be capable of holding
the hull inverted,on the flat surface, with the waterline
horizontal. The surface gauge is just a block with a
vertical piece of wood to which one of the pens can be
clamped with a miniature C clamp.
The first line to draw is the centerline, which will run
down the deck and along the keel line. A flexible plastic
ruler helps here. When you have the centerline drawn all
around the hull, check against the plan (top) view with
calipers to make sure it is truly centered. Place the hull in
the clamp and sight both stem and stern along the tabletop.
The lines should be vertical; if they aren't, you have the
keel line offset from the deck centerline. Sand the errant
line gently away and redraw.
Now the most important line, which is the load water line
(LWL). Lay the block on the profile (side) view, position so
there appears to be the same amount of excess top and bottom,
and mark the LWL on the stem and stern. Put the hull inverted
in the clamp, and clamp the marking pen on the surface gauge
at about the height of the LWL off the table. By a combination
of rocking the hull in the clamp and adjusting the height of
the marking pen, arrange things so that a) both the stem and
the stern marks are the same height above the table and b)
the pen is at that height. Then gently draw the LWL by running
the surface gauge around the hull. Don't worry if you don't
get a continuous line; you can fill in the gaps using the
flexible ruler. Sight both stem and stern; the centerlines
and waterline should be sitting nicely at right angles to each
other. (Stopping periodically to admire one's work is
allowed and even encouraged :-))
Now check the position of the LWL against the profile
drawing with calipers. At various points along the plan, set
the calipers to the vertical distance from the LWL to the
sheer (deck) line. Then go to the same place on the hull and
make sure that there is wood to spare above the sheer line.
Perform the same checks with the lower profile line. As
before, if it doesn't work out, erase the LWL with a little
light sanding and redraw per instructions above.
Before we get to the last set of reference lines I have to
explain the way, in this technique, a hull is formed.
3. The Form of a Hull
When you look at those nice scale drawings with the cross-
section of the hull at each station, you are tempted to think
that if you made a pattern for each station, carved to the
pattern, and then sort of smoothed out in between, you get
the "right" hull. Well, not necessarily. In fact, for many
designers right up to modern times, the carved model came
first and the drawings came second.
In the technique I am describing, a hull is defined by
(usually) three "master sections." One of these defines the
main or amidships body, another the "heel," or after body,
and the the third defines the "entry" or the fore part of the
hull. All sections between these are derived by a process
called "fairing," which generates a smooth transition, free
of bumps or hollows, from master section to master section.
A carved hull is faired directly on the wood, by a process
that is a lot like sculpture. When you do it, particularly
for a hull which is of a "certain age," you are very likely
duplicating the process the original designer went through,
getting you closer to a "true" shape than any set of drawings
can.
I said that fairing a hull was like sculpture, and like
sculpture is an art, and like all arts no two people will do
it the same. Yet after you do a few hulls this way you'll
get a feel for it (and never look at a hull the same way
again.)
So the final set of reference lines are the placing of the
master sections. First you have to pick them out from all the
sections shown on the station plan. The amidships section is
easy: it's the biggest one. The fore and aft master sections
take a bit of study, but for most hulls you can see where the
distinctive form of that part of the hull is defined. In any
case, it's no big deal if you're off by one station either way.
When you have selected the master sections, mark their fore
and aft positions on the deck center line. With calipers
transfer the half beams from the plan drawing to again make
sure that there is wood to spare on either side of the hull.
At each section positon, draw a line on the deck at right
angles to the center line, then around the hull with the
flexible ruler. Sight from the side. The lines running around
the hull should be at right angles to the LWL. If not, yeah,
yeah, sand off and redraw.
Now you've got a set of reference lines that postion that
phantom hull right near the middle of the block. Carve away
everything that doesn't look like part of a hull and you're
done :-)
4. The Carving Process
To carve the hull you'll need the usual Xacto knives, a
fairing tool, and a couple of battens. A fairing tool is a
long, springy piece of material to which you attach the self-
adhesive sandpaper used on small power sanders. A flat-
surfaced sanding block is deadly to the fairing process; there
ain't no planes on the kind of hull we're talking about :-)
Using your fingertips is even worse. For the average (two
foot or so) hull a thin, springy, 18" steel ruler is good.
Battens are springy pieces of wood, say 1/4" x 1/8" model
airplane spruce, used to check fairness and draw sweeping
lines.
Make a set of patterns of the master sections. Xerox the
plan, fold the copy in half carefully down the centerline,
and cut both sides at once. Using a full pattern instead of
a half pattern really helps get things symmetric. Glue to
file folder card stock and cut out carefully. Make sure the
LWL is marked on the pattern.
Draw the plan view on the deck. Don't cut a pattern from
the plan -- for (usually) sweeping curves like this you'll
never get it right. Instead, lay off the half beam distances
for several sections. With pins (or better yet, a helper you
don't mind being close to :-)) hold a batten in place to get
the sweep of the hull shape and draw along the batten edge.
Sight down the deck from stem to stern to check symmetry and
if not ... well, you know what to do.
The order of carving and fairing is: amidships master section
first, then aft, then fair the after body, then fore master
section, then fair the fore body. Other sequences are
possible, but they don't seem to give the same "feel" for how
the hull is developing.
Carve to the amidships section first. Carve parallel fore and
aft, so the middle of the hull looks a bit like a straight
tube. Check with the pattern, making sure that you align the
LWL on the pattern with the LWL on the hull. As you carve
away parts of the reference lines, redraw them with the
flexible rule.
Then carve to the aft master section. It's hard to describe
how this looks; the closest I can come to it is that you
carve at a straight angle from somewhere between the two
sections, so it looks like a hull made out of two sheets of
cardboard, one straight (the amidships section) and one
conical (the aft section). Watch the deck plan so that you
don't cut off a diagonal that should be an arc.
Now you are ready to fair the aft body. This is one of those
things that is obvious when you watch it being done but tough
to put into words. Anyhow, here goes: Put a little spring
into your fairing tool so that it forms a gentle arc. Hold it
at a 15 deg angle or so to the center line, and sand with a
gentle curving motion so that you are forming a compound
curve. Go slow. Do a little on one side, then a little on the
other. Check by laying a batten along the line a typical
plank would take. Sight carefully for bumps or hollows and
work out with the fairing tool. As you get used to doing
this, you'll see the hull form come up as if by magic, and
your eye will be trained to recognize fairness when it sees
it. Work it down to the deck line. It's not possible to
perform *too many* checks with the batten :-)
The fore body is carved and faired the same way. If the hull
has a "hollow" (concave) entry, like a lot of clipper ships
and some yachts, then you may find yourself bending the
fairing tool into a convex instead of concave arc.
The last thing to cut is the sheer line. On "yacht like"
hulls, this is one of the most critical lines -- get it right and
the hull is lovely
from almost every angle, get it wrong and and the hull never
looks quite like a boat. As with the plan line, use a batten
instead of a cardboard pattern. Take the vertical heights
from the LWL for several stations, and draw the line with the
batten. Check by sticking pins on the line at station points
and sighting from for and aft to see that they are at the same
height. *Carefully* carve close to the line and then sand.
This is the one point where a sanding block helps; especially
the round-ended ones sold by MicroMark. Try to get a sweeping
motion in your sanding. When you're almost there, switch to
a scraper. Hold a wide Xacto chisel blade in your hand and
pull it toward you with the ground bevel edge *away* from the
direction of travel. This will shave a very small amount of
wood from the deck. With a little practice you can scrape a
sheer line to a really sweet sweep.
And that's it. One day you'll do a hull and it'll be so
pretty you won't want to clutter it up with all that fiddely
little detail (just kidding).
Well, I seemed to have rambled on an awful lot; as the old
line goes, I regret I didn't have the time to write a shorter
message. But I hope this conveys some of the enthusiasm I
have for carving hulls, and helps you (and a useful
discussion) get started.
***Never assume a solid hull requires a little sanding. They
carve it over scale, and mostly really over scale around the
boe and stern. Don't ask me why. You will need to do a lot of
carving, using the templates. Don't worry about getting it
exact on both sides, just close. You need a nice sharp gouge
and chisel. The gouge is needed to cut the concave surfaces at
the stern. A chisel will handle the midships area. Carve
slowly, checking the templates as you go. Eventually you will
have the skill to know what to take off without screwing it
up. When close to lines, sand it. (Ben Langford)
56. I've seen some beautiful dioramas on occasion, of ships under
full sail. I'm curious how these are generally done. Are the
models used usually waterline models set in a resin sea? Is it
possible (or practical) to have one's cake and eat it too. I.e.
build a full hull model and set it into a premolded bed of
resin so that it could be removed and displayed in the
traditional manner. (Wolff Garritano)
A: I saw that done once. The only problem being that the diaroma
was so inclusive that the ship was very small. It left me with
the feeling that it was hardly worth the trouble. Mind you that
I am not talking about the quality of miniature ships that are
out there...rather a "pretty much looks like" model that filled
a space in the diorama. Another thing is setting the ship in a
case with the waterline and above being completely finished
while the below waterline portions were unplanked. Many times
the the display case has a wooden seperation at the water line,
giving the viewer the sense that he is seeing the model in
X-ray form. Very impressive but again here the secret is in the
manufacture of the case. (Mickey Martelle)
***I have made several ship dioramas and I must say that
generally I make the hulls waterline (or a little lower to
allow for listing etc.) but I have done some that were set into
a plexiglass sheet that I made to look like the water's surface
and then the underwater parts of the hull can be seen. Unusual,
effective, I get a lot of good remarks on those, but I still
prefer waterline for dioramas. (Bob Santos)
***I will tell you what I am going to *try* on my current
project. I stress try because I have not done this yet.
I purchased a piece of rippled plastic from a surplus store.
It is the type of thing you see on office dividers or bathroom
windows. It has a ripple pattern similar to that you might
expect of waves with a full breeze.
I plan to cut a hole in the plastic the shape of the hull,
drop the hull in (at the appropriate heel), and fix the hull in
place. Paint the "water" appropriately, and add a little bit
of resin around the joint, and -- in theory -- what I should
have is a plane representing the surface of the water. This
should allow a viewer to see a diorama of the ship wearing from
above, and the hull when viewed from the side.
I don't yet know how it will work, but have high hopes. I
have an extra hull of the model I am building (thanks to my
dog, who chewed up the original) and plan to use the ruined
hull (all the damage is above the waterline) to make sure I
have the hole cut right. It's an ill wind. . . (Mark Lardas)
***Your rippled plastic should work fine! One of our club
members uses it all the time. One of his dioramas depicted a
sunken ship and a salvage vessel hovering over it. It looked
pretty good. (Dana McCalip)
***If you go the full-hull route, you might want to consider
wrapping the hull in saran-wrap while you're fitting it to the
water...the saran-wrap will help prevent sticking to the water
medium; I assume you want to remove the hull again later?
(John Kopf)
***I read with interest an article in the December 1996 issue
of FineScale Modeler about making "waves" as a display technique
using plastic fluorescent light covers. May be just what you're
looking for. (Tim Jovick)
***I have found plastic sheet with a very good look of real
water. It is intended for the "stained glass" trade. Normal
rippled plexiglass is too regular in it's ripple to look real.
The other alternative is to surface the plexiglass (either
rippled or plain) with Acrylic Gel Medium, available at all art
and crafts stores. (Bob Santos)
***I have seen two dioramas that I think were really unique.
The first was a shipwreck on a sandy beach. Looked like the
builder wrecked the hull minus most of the rigging... different.
Also saw a "Cutty Sark" built into the display area as I was
told it was displayed in England. Built the stepped area
(drydock?) out of styrofoam and added landscaping via model RR
trees, Etc. I agree that rippled water makes for a nice X-ray
(?) type diorama that you can see under the water(?).
(Bob Cunningham)
***A few years ago I visited the Fisheries Museum in Nova
Scotia--upstairs they have these models, sitting in acrylic
sheet representing the surface of the water, and they showed
various methods of catching fish using nets, drags etc. by
having the lines going into the "water" and down below the
"waterline", i.e., the acrylic sheet.
Sometimes it's nice to see models like this that tell a story,
show the action in a scene, rather than just sitting up there
on pedestals saying "Here I am, aren't I beautiful". Nice for
a change of pace, anyways, and gets one's attention.
(Rick Fortenberry)
***I must come out of my lurking corner for this one. Is a ship
model on a water base considered a diorama? I build 1/600 Civil
War ironclads and they just don't look right if they are on
brass pegs. Acrylic gel is a much nicer way of displaying them.
To my mind this is not a diorama. If I were to add another ship,
say the Monitor/Virginia, then that would tell a story and I
would say would be a diorama. One ship doing its thing in the
water? Hmmmm, no.
I bring this up because of some contest rules I have
encountered. (Matthew Burchette)
***What constitutes a diorama is a real good question and
probably can have any number of answers which all could be
considered valid.
In my opinion and this is really subjective, a diorama must
tell a story and show a certain amount of action! A ship model
sitting in a plastic or plaster of paris sea represents a ship
sitting in its natural element; that is all. The Wisconsin
Maritime Museum hosts an annual competition and has a diorama
catagory. In order to put a model in this catagory there has
to be evidence that the scene portrays action and is something
more than a vessel riding at anchor or simply cruising.
Again, this is only one groups interpretation of what a diorama
should be and I am sure there could many arguments to the
contrary. The museum's whole idea is to encourage creativity
from the diorama entrants. (Dana McCalip)
***Interestingly, this definition is not consistent with any
given in Webster's. In fact, it is in itself contradictory,
since a vessel "simply cruising" is indeed portraying "action".
Is an anchored yacht rolling in a rough sea a diorama?
Certainly there is action portrayed. Is a ship anchored in
calm water but with crew members posed in various attitudes and
accomplishing various tasks a diorama? A sailor hauling in a
line or the cook throwing garbage overboard are certainly
depictions of specific actions.
Like Dana, I suspect that there are many definitions of what
constitutes a "diorama". For me, a model portrayed in its
natural element (water) constitutes a diorama, albeit a simple
one. I've done a number of projects which depict abandoned
boats pulled up along the shore, half sunk, and in various
stages of deterioration. There is certainly no action
portrayed, but the viewer can certainly imagine all sorts of
things leading up to the scene. They do, in fact, tell a story
of sorts. I guess my point here is that, unless you are
concerned about competing in a specific event, why worry about
what your creation is called? If it makes you happy and is
appreciated by others (and clients buy them :-)...), what does
it matter? (Al Ross)
***Your are correct. The terms "at anchor" and "cruising" are
mine and were probably a poor choice of wording. For a number
of years the Wisconsin (formerly known as Manitowoc) Maritime
Museum ship model contest was overrun with waterline models
plopped down in a sea of plaster, rippled plex, and acrylic gel
and thats all. In order to more clearly define the term and to
promote more creativity among the entrants the contest guidelines
called for the vessel to be doing something. Scudding along
under storm canvass, coming up to an anchor bouy or in the
process of sinking, etc., etc., are examples of what the museum
calls "telling a story" etc. Waterline models entered on just
a simulated water base are put in the same catagory with models
mounted on cradles or pedestals. This rule evolved over the
years and so far there have been no complaints. Again, this is
not to say that this is the only proper way to qualify dioramas
but is just one institutions way of handling it. (Dana McCalip)
***In my opinion a diorama is much more than a ship (or
anything else) in a setting. I picture it being exactly that a
picture. Imagine you being in a hot air baloon passing over an
active cove that has a ship on the ways, a couple leaving for
fishing duties, a few houses, a kid fishing off the dock,
streets, dogs, general store, etc. Then model it all to scale
and viola you have a true diorama. In short the ship is merely
one object in a much larger overview. Many scenes in model
railroad layouts are actually dioramas. (Mickey Martelle)
***If a "Diorama" shows action and / or interaction between
different object, what is a good name for the "ship on the
water" type of model display that started this whole issue
(i.e., one that does not "qualify" as a diorama; just a boat on
water)? (John Kopf)
***I haven't got a copy of the contest rules handy, but I
believe that IPMS qualifies such as "model on base."
(John Snyder)
***How about "Ship at sea" or "ship at anchor" a "fleet of
ships" etc. The point being the type of model could be like
an artist painting in which the title usually tells the viewer
that which he or she is looking at. (Mickey Martelle)
*NEW* ***If you intended diorama involves anything in addition to
the ship and water, Kalmbach publishing has several books for
the railroad modeler on "scenery"; these hae a lot of useful
tips. (John Kopf)
57. I hear reports of problems with some of the "resin" kits?
A: The following is from:
Ted Paris, President Commanders Series Model Inc.
It has been brought to my attention that a large number of
modelers have been having problems with warped resin ship
hulls. Having worked daily with resin for the past 7 years
I've learned a few truisms which I feel should be passed on.
1 Resin shrinks- The material itself is prone to shrinkage thus
some parts may require adjustment for fitting (usually minor).
2 Resin warps- Resin parts (usually hulls) if removed from
molds prior to total cure may bend and warp (Resin has a
memory). Parts removed or shipped prior to total cure may
warp- REMEDY- Soften part in hot water and reshape. If this
is not successful modular should contact manufacturer.
Our company stands by a total replacement policy. The customer
should get all he or she pays for. We immediately respond to
all requests for information and parts support.
Hopefully modeless will have positive experiences with all
aftermarket resin kit's. There are numerous quality products
available from an ever growing number of manufacturers.
58. What are the proper colors for British Ensigns? Were the
Ensigns of british ships really as big as they appear in kits?
Not only was the color of the ensign important but also the
configuration of the canton (the union flag design in the
ensign's upperleft quadrant). Prior to 1707 the canton was
merely a red cross of St. George on a white background. At the
same time a red cross of St. George was made across the entire
length and breadth on the white ensign. In 1707 with the union
with Scotland the background of the canton became blue and the
white saltire (diagonal cross)of St. Andrew was added to the
ensign. In 1801 there occured the Act of Union with Ireland
and the red saltire (diagonal cross) of St. Patrick was
superimposed over the saltire of St. Andrew. In addition to the
changes in pattern of the British naval ensign there has been a
definite change of shape since the 17th century. The early
ensigns were almost square being only one-and-a-quarter times
their height in the fly. In the late Stuart navy this
lengthened to one-and-a-half times the height and in a first
rate measured 13.5ft by 18ft. As the years wore on the overall
shape of the ensigns became more rectangular and by 1864 the
proportions between width and length is 1:2. The length of a
flag is correctly stated in breadths, a unit of 9in. In the
18th century there was an admiral aboard his flag measured
9.5ft by 13ft which is very large by modern standards.
Depending on where the ensign was flying also dictated the size.
In 1977 the Nautical Research Society hosted the NRG Conference
in Chicago. The evening's theme was the Royal Navy and HMS
Victory. By some stroke of good fortunate her commanding officer
was kind enough to donate one of Victories foremast ensigns for
display. It was classified a 10 breadth ensign 90in. from top
to bottom. Also at the Conference was a storm ensign, a much,
much smaller flag and made out of very heavy material.
(Dana McCalip)
59. I have a number of questions about working with resin kits:
a. What do I cut resin parts from their spru with?
b. Should I prime the metal parts before I paint them?
c. should I clean the metal parts before I paint them?
d. Can I paint directly onto the Resin?
e. Should I paint the railings before I put them up?
f. Should I paint the ship before I put the railings up?
*NEW* (Randall Shoker)
A: a. I use Xuron cutters. I have all three sizes:Large, small,
and the long-nosed. I'd say i use the small one the most. I've
used them to cut very fine detail parts off the sprues without
mishap. Then i take a X-Acto knife to trim the excess.
b,c,d. I would say that you should first wash all of the resin
parts to remove any release agents left over. I use Ivory
dishwashing soap (clear) for cleaning. Question ? Are the resin
parts on sprues ?!?!?! I've never clean etched parts, unless I
had to solder parts together and use a lot of flux.
If you are doing any masking i strongly recommend that you
prime all parts. The last thing you want is to lift-up the
paint when removing the tape. As for painting directly on the
resin, you can do it, but the risk of lifting paint is much
higher. (John Sheridan)
***Usually best to cut parts from sprue with a razor saw and
then sand smooth. Resin and metal parts should be thoroughly
cleaned before painting. Resin parts I scrub with hot water and
dishwashing soap, metal parts I clean with alcohol. Priming is
not essential but can be helpful. Definately paint the railings
off the ship, and paint the ship before installing the railings.
If the ship has brass rod for fabricating masts and such, it
should be roughed up slightly with fine sand paper or the paint
will chip very easily. (Larry)
Final notes: If you build a model for display or sale, always sign it
in a hidden or at least non-obvious location. Never sell yourself
short. Log your hours building. Never charge less than 3xCurrent
minimum wage per hour plus materials. If your work is quality, it will
sell at those prices, and usually at a premium. If your work doesn't
meet standards (retail, decorative or museum) you will never sell
regularly. Document sources and techniques on everything you build for
(possible) sale or "prestigeous" display. Good Luck (RAlcorn824)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part10
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part10
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 10) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
51. Why do [your choice] cost so much?
A: This is an interesting question, for it illustrates the trade
offs inherent when your modeling efforts become a business. I
have had some limited exposure with this (I have done some
pattern work for The Scale Shipyard in the past) - and the time
spent on a master is extrordinary. For the last 3 nights I
have been working on a 1/16" 5" twin gun mount. When it is
finished I will have about 9 hours into the pattern. Will it
be perfect? No, I am leaving off some detail that would be
tedious and even more time consuming to put on (rivets, etc)
simplifying other detail (hinges for doors) and only indicate
where other detail goes if the modeler cares to add it (grab
rails). Why? There is a couple of curves here. One is that
adding complexity to a part shortens mold life when dealing
with RTV rubber. Little pieces degrade over time, and it does
not take long for the mold to be useless. My time to build
masters is limited, and the law of diminishing returns applies
here. Lastly, economics plays a part - there is a finite
amount that most modelers will pay for a certain part.
(The really sad thing is when someone puts hours into making
a part, and a modeler buys one and copies it for his models,
or worse, for his friends. It is only through multiple unit
sales that companies can hope to realize a profit - thus keep
is business - thus produce new stuff. I have been told by
several small casting companies how frustrating it is when a
modeler orders, essentially, one of everything, and then is
never heard from again.)
I hope that the Enterprise kit does well. Chances are even
at that price level he is not planning to retire soon on the
profits. 8-) It remains to be seen what the demand for such
a kit will be. Ultimately modelers have control over the
quality of kits coming out. By supporting ambitious projects
such as this you assure more will follow. If they do not do
well then we must settle for less detailed, simpler kits at a
lesser price.
Aside from the fact that I believe it just about impossible
to 'rip off' someone in the course of a hobby - after all, it
is not a neccesity, just a pastime, and if prices go too high
you can choose another - you have a very simple alternative;
scratchbuild.
When making a pattern I start with a chunk of acrylic, shape
it with metal working machines, finish it with wood working
machines and hand tools to a 2000 grit finish, detail the part
using a combination of brass and plastic pieces, individually
made, and then ship it to the manufacuturer for production. If
you feel that the finished item is worth it, then purchase it.
If you think prices are too high, then make the items yourself
and then market them at a lesser price - that too is what the
free market is all about. (Kurt Greiner)
****Not to mention the most overlooked fact of all: If a
modeler really wants to build a $1000 ship kit, rather than just
"acquire" it, the number of dollars per hour of entertainment
is probably cheaper than renting a movie on video. A kit of
this magnitude would likely take at least 500 hours to
complete to a reasonable standard, probably more. That seems
to be pretty cheap fun if you ask me. (Hawk137)
***The price of the kit is not an issue. Most of BWN's
products are out of my range, so my only experience is seeing
them at displays of BWN and other vendors at shows. If the
market will support the costs of BWN's products, then so be it.
Hopefully, the escalating costs of unique ships is not a
trend, but if it is, then all of us must be doing quite well.
I understand that R&D, as well as labor and production, are
expensive propositions in today's market, and a business has
the right to make a profit.
As to the assertion that "everyone wants something for
nothing", this is not true, IMHO. Modelers want high quality
kits at fair and reasonable prices. Some may consider $950 a
fair and reasonable price, and others may not, but this
determination is in the opinion of the modeler, and not the
producer. The criticism of the price should have been
expected, and a reasonable response should have been formed
long before all of this transpired. All of this is in the
past though, and hindsight is 20/20, so I agree with the main
point of RBartolacc in that we should all get back to the
hobby. (REDBOZO6)
***'Twould be great to have more kits available of ships,
boats, and other things that make their way upon the oceans!
Blue Water is OK (no offense intended) but maybe too expensive
for many of us. As I've posted before, I have reached the
point where I absolutely refuse to purchase Japanese (Tamiya,
Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aokii, SkyWave, etc., kits because of
comments I've read about 'charging as much as the market will
bear.'
What *is* the cost of having injection mold masters made?
After all, for any model, someone along the way has to make a
master (or steal parts!). Perhaps. if we as ship modelers want
access to new kits, maybe this is the time to get together and
develop and market our own - at cost or close to it! We want
the models, and I'm sure we can generate a list of preferences
quickly. Let's get some sort of list generated, talk among
ourselves, make the masters, and do it!
things to consider:
Scales: 1:700. 1:350. 1:192 (or 1:200), etc.
Mixed media; resin + aftermarket details; injected moldings;
wood with plastic/pewter/Britannia details, etc.
Most of us tend to model warships. I would personally like to
have access to a *good* Liberty or Victory or T2 or even C1 in
1:350. Other 'wants' include vessels from the transition
(U.S.Navy) from sail to steam, particularly 1865-1905 period.
We're not a big market, face it! Possibly, if we cooperate,
we can do one heck of a lot more for each other than any *major*
kit manufacturer would ever attempt. Any Ideas? (RAIcorn824)
52. As I prepare for the final rigging on my Thermopylae, I begin
to wonder about a display case. Are there any rules-of-thumb
regarding how much larger than a model's maximum dimensions a
case should be? Certainly too large a case would swallow a
model, but I would imagine one would not want to crowd a model
in a small case. (Bill Boyd)
A: My case-maker tells me "the case should be in proportion to
the model". He's a bit vague on this, but when I get a case
from him, I find he's left about an inch on each end of the
model, an inch on each side, and about two inches on the top.
Just to add something, I asked him for a formula to determine
the cost of a case, maybe something likes L + W + H x some $
figure. I got a similarly vague answer, something like "Well,
it depends..." :) Case-makers can be as persnickety as we
shipmodelers. (Rick Fortenberry)
***I have found that about 1.5"on each dimension of the ship
is fine. By that I mean right and left, front and back, top.
If the main spar is 13" wide the case would be 16" wide.
I no longer put my ships in cases and have gotten rid of the
cases I had. They are cumbersome, take up too much room, and
preclude really viewing the model. With the feather duster
and vaccuums I have, the ships are perfectly clean and dust
free. It takes very little effort or time to keep them that
way.
Try it, you can always put a case around the model.
(Stan Kempner)
***Case maker George M. creations, who advertise in Ships in
Scale, recommends 2 inches of clearance all around (length,
width, and height) your model in his nicely done brochure. He
offers custom-built as well as standard size cases in red oak
and mahogany. He, and several other case makers do have a
standard formula for determining case pricing. Measuring case
length, plus width, plus height yields a number of Unit Inches,
times so much per unit inch (depending on material of your
choice) equals price.
Addendum to case pricing: I had a red oak case made by
George M. Creations which I was very happy with. I thought
two inches clearance all around was excessive and would yield
a case which would overpower the model visually as well as
being more expensive. I settled on one inch clearance, and I
have to be VERY careful when casing and uncasing the model.
The case is heavy and has a propensity for swinging into yards
and rigging. (Bob Steinbrunn)
***I have done a lot of looking at this particular thing. What
I look for is to be able to see the entire craft if you are a
little to the side of the case. I concluded that a case about
3" longer on each end is adequate. So if model is 30", make
the case 36". The front is the same but not as much. I use a
case about 2 to 2-1/2" on each side wider. Model ( say the
main yard, is 10 inches. Make the case 15" wide. I have made
many cases and most models look fairly good in these
restrictions. (Ben Langford)
***I find that about 1 inch between the model and the case on
ALL sides is about right. However, I find that the model
looks beter if there is a 2 inch gap at the bow...it gives the
impression that the model has somewhere to "go". (John O. Kopf)
53. I think a brief discussion of "English vs. Metric" system of
measurement and the trade offs for each as it is pertains to
ship modelers and other modelers in general is appropriate to
this forum. (Dana L. McCalip)
A: The metric system was invented in France in the 1790's as part
of the "New Age" thinking that swept France in the wake of the
Revolution. Tallyrand was instrumental in providing the impetus
to develop a new system, but it was actually the brainchild of
the French Academy of Sciences. The basic premise was to make
the standard unit of measurement, the meter, equal to one ten-
millionth of the distance from the North Pole to the Equator
along a meridian that bisected Paris. Only problem was, they
goofed up the calculation. The result is that the meter doesn't
really represent anything, and is just as arbitrary a unit as
the English foot. Thanks to the precision of modern science,
and the tenacity of those dedicated to validating the metric
system, the meter is currently defined as 1,650,763.73
wavelengths of the orange-red line of the spectrum of krypton-
86 measured in a vacuum. . . . (riiigghhtttt. . .). The new
system was implemented in the 1790's, but when Napoleon came to
power, he threw it out and restored the old system. It wasn't
until 1840 or so that the metric system was reinstated.
What makes the metric system so attractive to the world in
general is its base 10 foundation. This appeals to almost
anyone who has had 8, 10 or 12 or more years of mathematical
education in a base ten system. In actuality, for those
individuals who are learning a system of measurement for the
first time, namely your average 6 or 7 year old, this
educational foundation of base ten math doesn't exist, so the
metric system is actually no easier for them to learn from
scratch than an arbitrary "customary" system such as English.
In fact, some studies have shown that many children have
difficulty grasping the concept of decimals, so, in fact,
metric may actually be harder for children to grasp than a
completely arbitrary system would be.
The metric system works just as well as any other in the every
day world of business and technology, but it is really no more
accurate than any other established and defined system.
(Although many technologies and businesses still refuse to
convert. My company just landed a large contract to provide
valves to the European Space Agency for their laboratory module
for the International Space Station. It is our fourth Space
Station contract. We were literally the only company in the
world that could provide the product and performance required,
within the cost/delivery window. The irony is that the ESA is
going to get its valves designed, engineered and manufactured
to the English system of measurement) Yet, for some strange
reason, people think that it is more accurate, just because it
appears to be more "logical". The fact is, the accuracy of any
system of measurement depends on how precisely its basic units
are defined and standardized, NOT what their mathematical
relationship is to each other. You could devise a system of
measurement based on the length of the standard eggplant. As
long as you defined and standardized that unit precisely enough,
it would be as "accurate" as any other system.
However, metric is not as well suited to scale modeling as is
the English system, particularly where the beginning modeler is
concerned.
Consider: The smallest usable metric division that can be
printed on a scale or ruler is one millimeter. This equals
roughly 3/64" (.046"). The next smaller division would be 1/10
of a millimeter, or .0046", less than five one-thousandths of
an inch. It would literally be impossible to print divisions
this small on a ruler and even if you could, who the hell could
differentiate them well enough to make an accurate measurement
mark? Yet, anyone who works in modeling scales of 1/4"=1' (or
1:50) or smaller knows that it is frequently necessary to
measure and mark distances in the range of 32's or 64's of an
inch (1/3 to 2/3 of a millimeter). In the English system, a
modeler can take measurements in this size range with a good
old inexpensive ruler. In the metric system you need a
(relatively) more expensive metric caliper to do the same,
because standard units in this range don't exist.
Most of the modelers on this list are building or are going to
build models of British, American and/or Canadian vessels of
whatever era. The prototypes of these models were all designed,
"engineered" (as applicable) and built to the standard English
system of measurement (French, Danish, Swedish and Spanish ships
of the 18th Century and earlier were all built on different
systems of measurements based on their own standard "foot," all
of which varied). Many of the full-sized dimensions in these
vessels are fractionalized to begin with. By first scaling these
dimensions down and then attempting to convert them to metric,
you are creating a mess of minute fractionalized units and/or
strings of decimal numbers which simply cannot be measured in
the metric system with any degree of accuracy. (Remember, I
said that ANY system is just as accurate as any other as long
as the standards of the system are well maintained and sharply
defined.) The minute you start converting from one to another,
you are throwing your accuracy away. You simply cannot find a
common denominator for apples and oranges. The corresponding
values and relationships become muddied, and you make mistakes.
In my years of association with Model Shipways and later Model
Expo, I have had the opportunity to open up and study literally
hundreds of European ship model kits. Most of these kits were
"based" on plans of English and American prototypes. The one
nearly universal feature of these kits was (and no doubt still
is) the inaccuracy and inconsistency of their plans. This
remarkably consistent problem is due to the fact that the
original plans and dimensions, laid down in the English system
of measurement were scaled down and converted to metric (or
vice versa) by the manufacturer, for production in metric. Due
to the problems stated above, this caused inevitable
inaccuracies to be manufactured into these kits and their plans.
In several cases where I analyzed kits thoroughly, I actually
found consistently repeated mathematical mistakes in certain
plan/part dimensions.
I'm not saying, don't ever build a model in metric. I know
that many modelers successfully build and enjoy European kits
almost exclusively. What I am saying is, don't invite trouble
by mixing one system with another by trying to convert back and
forth; for beginners, do yourselves a favor and make your
learning experience a little easier and more pleasant by
sticking with English System measurement, at least to start
with.
BTW, I have built models in metric, though I try to avoid it
if at all possible! (Jim Roberts)
***I agree with your comments. However, let us be certain to
impress on the list members who are new to modeling that they
should pick EITHER metric or English measurements for a project.
If there is anything out there which can screw up an already
mysterious (as seen by the eyes of a newcomer to ship modeling)
undertaking, it is trying to wend back and forth between metric
and English. With the exception of Dana's observation concerning
the availability of ready-made parts, it really doesn't matter
which you use. But only use one method per project!!! Beware,
beginner, thou hast been warned!
This comment was and is directed to the BEGINNING modeler. As
the beginner develops his or her skills the ability to rapidly
flip-flop between the two measurement systems will be attained.
I would be most surprised if you experienced modelers could NOT
interchange at will. Let us all remember that in addition to
helping one another, our mission here (as I see it) is to help
train the novice. (Mickey Martelle)
***I personally think all you guys (and gals if there are any)
are making a mountain out of a molehill regarding metrics and
English. Both are units of measurement. There may be a slight
difference between a metric part and English, but it is very
close in the scales we deal in. I put both English inches and
millimeter units on my plans, so the US guys can use inches,
and the overseas guys can use millimeters. Its more of a
familiarity with one system vs. the other.
With models, what I have seen is equivalents that are really
not equivalent. I am currently working on a project done in
Italy, and the Italian firm gives basically millimeters.
However, they have also given equivalents in inches. For
example, they wanted certain parts cut from 1mm thick wood.
They said this is 3/64" in inches. Well, thats not exactly true
because 3/64" is 1.19 millimeters. But does it really make a
difference? Use 1mm wood cut in Europe or 3/64" cut in the US
and at a small scale the difference is hardly noticable. Am I
making myself clear? I f not I would like to hear more from
those interested, and be more specific. The last few messages I
read were too general. This one I am responding to is an
example. "Stick to one system. Why? I often use inches and
millimeters on a project. Sometimes I find it easier to divide
things or measure things in millimeters than inches. I relate
to full scale sizes better in inches, but I am talking about
the process of model building. I think everyone who is involved
in technical stuff like model building should be able to work
and interchange either system. If you can't you are just not
doing your homework. (Ben Langford)
***I have been following the English/Metric scale discussion
with interest. All of the contributors have had valuable things
to say, and I have only two small things to add.
1. I have a 6" steel rule from Model Expo with both English
and Metric scales. The first 5 cm of the Metric scale are
graduated in 1/2 mm increments, which is more than small
enough for most woodworking purposes, since I always cut a
little long and then sand or file to fit. I do not know
if it is still available.
2. When working in 1/2", 1/4" or 1/8" scale, I use metric ruler
divisions to approximate full size English units. While
this sounds a little screwy, it works quite well. This is
because of the close approximation between the scale (1:24
for instance) and the ratio of English to metric units
(1:25.4).
For example, if a cap rail is 4" wide, full size, it will be
4/48" or 1/12" in 1/4" scale. This is a measurement which does
not appear on any ruler.
However, at the same scale, 1mm is almost exactly equal to 2"
( 1.8912" precisely), so I measure 2 mm and I have my 4" actual
dimension. I do not do this when building in 3/16" or 3/8"
scales, since the divisions on the ruler match full sized actual
dimensions. For small details or ropework I use calipers, as
has been suggested by others. (Dan Pariser)
***I probably am talking too much, but to "train the novice" is
not to say avoid something. If the novice does not deal with
metrics and English, how the hell will they ever learn anything.
Let's tell them how to deal with the subject, not to avoid it.
Most novices are model builder novices, but they are not
idiots. Some are probably as old as we are and with a lot more
technical skills. Do not assume that a novice model builder is
some dumb s-o-b kid. (Ben Langford)
54. What are diagonals used for?
A: A diagonal is nothing more than a plane cut diagonally through
the hull at various points. You draw diagonals at several
locations so that the diagonals are perpendicular to the
station lines at various points. You measure along the diagonal
to each station line, then draw a curve through the points just
like you do a waterline. This curve must be fair. If not you
have to move the station line point. Thats fairing!
The advantage of the diagonal is that it crosses station line
nearly perpendicular, so there is no room for error. Near the
stern the diagonals are really inportant. They can straighten
out a real mess. (Ben Lankford)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part12
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part12
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 12) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
(Note: entries sorted by ZIP code)
***(Also look in the back of Scale Ship Modeler Magazine. They have a
large listing of the more prominant ship modeling clubs in Canada and
the USA. -- contributed by: mailto:dav...@cml.com)
USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild of New England Massachusetts
Meetings: 1st Tuesday of the Month
Contact: Robert D. Laslocky
16A Mayberry Dr.
Westborough, MA 01581-1342
mailto:74562...@compuserve.com
Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild Massachusetts
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month, 7:30 pm
Contact: Secretary, Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild, Inc.
R57 Washington St.
Gloucester, MA 01930
The Marine Modelers Club of New England Massachusetts
Contact: Dean Jernstrom
838 Pond St.
Franklin, MA 02038 (508) 520-0340
Jamaica Pond Modelers' Club Massachusetts
Meetings: Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Contact: Joe Perez
P. O. Box 222
Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
Downeast Shipmodeler's Guild Maine
Contact: David Blanchard
87 Pearl St.
Camden, ME 04843-1921 (207) 236-6468
mailto:ja...@midcoast.com
Connecticut Marine Model Society Connecticut
Meetings: 2nd Friday of each month at 8:00 p.m., in Maxie Hall,
Room 103 at the University of New Haven, New Haven, CT
Contact: Richard Alexander
15 Ferryview Dr.
Gales Ferry, CT 06335 (203) 464-7462
South Orange Seaport Society New Jersey
Contact: John Gill
5 Mead St.
South Orange, NJ 07079 (201) 770-1784
Philadelphia Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Richard M. Austin
21 Lafferty Dr.
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Garden State Model Boaters New Jersey
Contact: Dave Kammerer
371 Euclid Ave.
Managsquam, NJ 08736
Ship Lore and Model Club New York
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month
Contact: Norman Brouwer
South Street Seaport Museum
207 Front Street
New York NY 10038
The Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey New Jersey
http://members.aol.com/smsnnj/web/index.html
Meetings: 4th Tuesday of each month, Millburn Public Library
Contact: Dan Pariser
75 Livingston St. #10A
Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 855-1720
Model Shipcraft Guild of New York New York
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of each month, 7:30-10:30 p.m., Battery
Park Building (next to Staten Island Ferry Slip in
Manhattan)
Contact: John Mango
2012 60th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11204
-or- George D'Elia (201) 332-5631
Long Island Ship Model Society New York
Meetings: 2nd Wednesday of each Month at 8 p.m.
Contact: Hal Bosche
90 North Ocean Avenue
Islip, NY 11751
Catskill Scale Model Shipwrights New York
Contact: Joe Callejo
408 A Spillway Road
West Hurley, NY 12491
Buffalo Model Powerboat Club New York
Contact: Karl Kalb
2960 Pearce Road
North Tonawanda, NY 14120 (716) 731-9717
Task Force 50 Pennsylvania
Contact: Thomas Fooler
RD #6, Box 56
York, PA 17404 (717) 792-1831
Valley Forge Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Ernest Morris
R.D. #4, Box 82
Spring City Road,
Phoenixville, PA 19460-1848 (215) 948-8107
Friends of the Schooner Model Society Maryland
http://www.netcharts.com/schooner/
Contact: Commodore:
Melvin A. Conant
P.O. Box 181
Lusby, MD 20657 weekdays: (202) 289-8970
weekends: (410) 326-6835
Maryland Attack Group Maryland
Purpose: Model boating (Mainly R/C combat with the IR/CWCC format)
Contact: Martin Hayes,
1113 Crestview Dr.,
Annapolis, MD 21401
St. Michaels Model Boat Club Maryland
http://www.netcharts.com/st.michaels/
Contact: Commodore :
Robert L. Roberts
P.O. Box 781
Easton, Md. 21601 (410) 822-0943
Washington Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Gene Larson
9223 Presidential Drive
Alexandria, VA
22309
Historical Minatures Modeling Club Virginia
Contact: Brian Starkes
601 Bond Av.
Chesapeake, VA 23323 (804) 487-3951
Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 20:00 hours, 2nd Friday of each month
Contact: Alan Frazer
108-G Indian Summer Drive
Yorktown, VA 23693-1034
Carolina Maritime Society North Carolina
Meetings: Last Saturday of each month at 2 pm in the North Carolina
Maritime Museum
Contact: North Carolina Maritime Museum
315 Front Street
Beaufort, NC 28516-2125 (919) 728-7317
Jacksonville Ship Model Club Florida
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Jacksonville Maritime Museum
1015 Museum Drive, Unit 2
Jacksonville, FL 32207
North Palm Beach County Model Club Florida
Contact: Dan Seaman
119 Brookhaven Ct.
Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33418 (407) 622-8358
Tampa Bay Ship Model Society Florida
Meetings: 7:00 p.m., 4th Tuesday of each month in the Bayonet Point
Community Center in Tampa, Florida.
Contact: Walker Roberts
Box 4148
Tampa, FL 33677 (813) 875-3422
Old Frigates Ship Modelers Florida
Meetings: 1st Thursday of each month
Contact: (352) 854-7713; -or- (352) 854-8147
The Southwest Florida Shipmodeler's Guild. Florida
Meetings: Every 4th Thursday at 2PM at The Golden Gate Community
Center, Naples, FL
Contact: John Weliver, 6552 Highland Pines Cir.
Ft. Myers, FL 33912 (941) 561 5777
-or- mailto:JCW...@aol.com
Suncoast Ship Model Society of Spring Hill Florida
Meetings: 7:00 pm at Week Wuchse Acres Senior Citizen Club
Contact: Neil A. Brothers
9096 Jena Rd.
Spring Hill, FL 34608 (352) 686-8640
Maritime Modelers Inc. Kentucky
Meetings: Every 2nd Thursday, Covington Fire Fighters Building
Howell Ave. and 23rd St, Covington KY 7 p.m.
Contact: Maritime Modelers Inc.
63 Linet
Highland Heights, KY 41076
Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild Ohio
Contact: Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild
c/o Richard J. Lott
4567 Westport Road, Apt. 3
Columbus, OH 43228 (614) 279-3459
Society of Model Shipcrafters of Great Lakes Historical Society Ohio
Contact: Bill Halen
4038 Ridge Rd. #4
Brooklyn, OH 44144 (216) 351-6632
The Admirals Indiana
Meetings: 2nd Thursday of each month, 6:30 pm, at Nora Public
Library, 8625 Guilford Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46143
Contact: Earl L. Cotton (317) 888-8575
Midwest Model Shipwrights Illinois
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month
Contact: The Ship Chandler
518 E. Northwest Highway
Mt. Prospect, IL 60056
North Shore Deadeyes Illinois
Meetings: 1st Tesday of each month
Contact: Raymond Kartasuk
10 Ashfield Ct.
Lincolnshire, IL 60069 (847) 821-0110
Nautical Research and Ship Model Society Illinois
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month, @ 7:30 pm at the Rich Port
YMCA at Ogden Avenue at LaGrange Road, LaGrange, Il
Contact: Dana McCalip
6849 S. Keeler Ave.
Chicago, IL 60629 mailto:dmcc...@g30.synet.net
Gateway Model Ship Crafters Missouri
Meetings: At the Rock Road Library one Monday evening each month,
September through May.
Contact: Irwin Kuehling
541 Beuford Dr.
St. Louis, MO 63122-1413 (314) 644-3905
Kansas City Square Riggers Missouri
Contact: Paul Gagne
13604 Bennington St.
Grandview, MO 64030-3212 (816) 765-3977
Tulsa Ship Modeler's Society Oklahoma
Contact: Dan Allis
1631 East 31st St.
Tulsa, OK 74105-2100 (918) 747-6286
Houston Model Yacht Club Texas
Meetings: weekly; they have scale R/C regattas and race 12M and
36/600 yachts.
Contact: Commodore Ted Cooper
1003 Country Club Dr.
Houston, TX 77469 (713) 342-1658
Rocky Mountain Shipwrights Colorado
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month (9:30-noon) at Castlewood
Public Library in Englewood, CO
Contact: Bruce Bollenbach
8046 Lee Ct.
Arvada, CO 80005 (303) 424-8578
-or- Dr. Bob Roberts (719) 481-2449
Maritime Modelers California
Contact: Maritime Modelers
2554 Lincoln Blvd, Suite 215
Marina Del Ray, CA 90291
Ship Modelers' Association California
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month, 7 pm, Backs Community Blg.,
201 N. Bradford, Placentia, CA
Contact: Bill Russell
19705 S. Moorshire Dr.
Cerritos, CA 90703
San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild California
Meetings: 3rd Thursday, 3:00 p.m., Bark STAR OF INDIA
Contact: SDSMG, c/o San Diego Maritime Museum
1306 North Harbor Drive
San Diego, CA 92101
Ventura County Maritime Museum Model Guld California
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm
Contact: Clare Hess, VCMM Model Guild,
2731 South Victoria Ave.,
Oxnard, CA 93035
(805) 684-3673 (eve. and weekends)
South Bay Model Shipwrights California
Meetings: 3rd Friday of Each Month, at the Stamford Linear
Accelerator
Contact: Jean Eckert
1623 Ben Roe Dr.
Los Altos, CA 94024 (415) 964-0561
=or= http://home.earthlink.net/free/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html.
Diablo Model Boat Club California
Contact: Bill Vanderslick
Diablo Model Boat Club
411 Melinda Court
Pittsburg, CA 94585-3424 (510) 458-4745
Metro Marine Modelers Ontario, Canada
Contact: Dan Sinstead
General Delivery
18 Reid St.
Bobcaygeo
Ontario, Canada K0M 1A0
Provincial Marine 1812 Ontario, Canada
Meetings: 3rd Thursday of each month (except Jun/Jul/Aug) at:
HMCS York, 695 Lakeshore Blvd, West Toronto, Ont., Canada
Contact: Al Griffiths
57 Thicket Rd.
Etobicoke
Ontario, Canada M9C 2C4
Winnipeg Model Boat Club Manitoba, Canada
Contact: Bob Russell (204) 775-9887
Saskatoon Model Boat Club Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Contact: Peter Lambe
mailto:la...@sk.sympatico.ca
Alberta Ship Model Society Alberta, Canada
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month, 7 pm, NMSC NUNSUCH,
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Contact: Alan Thain
5 Gilmore Ave.
Sherwood Park
Alberta, Canada T8A 2X7
The Kelowna Model Boat Club British Columbia, Canada
Contact: John H. Harland 250-764-7364
448 Avery Rd. mailto:ylwm...@cyberstore.ca
Kelowna BC V1W 4H8 Canada
Victoria Model Shipbuilding Society British Columbia, Canada
Meetings: Second Thursday of each month; In Summer, at large model
pond; in Winter, at Royal Oak Scout Hall.
Contact: Box 45083
http://www.pacificcoast.net/~davewinter/vmss.html
Mayfair Postal Outlet
Victoria, BC, Canada V8Z 7G9
North Western Model Shipwright's Association England
Meetings: Saturdays at 11:00 am at Edge Hill Cottage, Chorley
Contact: H. R. Snape, Chairman
10 Wendover Rd.
Carleton
Poulton-le-Fylde, England FY6 7PT
The Scale Sailing Association England
Contact: The Scale Sailing Association
14 Palace Road
Crouch End
London N8 8QJ
England
Society for Nautical Research England
(Publishes "Mariner's Mirror"; membership US $50)
Contact: Membership Secretary is:
M P J Garvey FCA
Stowell House
New Pond Hill
Cross in Hand
Heathfield
East Sussex TN21 0LX
England
NAUTICAL SOCIETIES
==================
Nautical Research Guild (U. S.) $30.00 membership
Publishes the quarterly journal Nautical Research Journal
Contact: Nautical Research Guild
19 Pleasant Street
Everett, MA 02149 (617) 389-2505
Scale Ship Modeler's Association
Clubs interested in becoming members should contact:
Matt O'Neill, SSMA Club Director
1880 Emmanual Church Rdd
Huntington, Maryland 20639
International R/C Warship Combat Club
http://www.netcharts.com/warship
Contact: Treasurer:
Ronny Hunt
2611 Stratford Drive
Greensboro, NC 27408
Ships-In-Bottles Association Of America California
Contact: Don Hubbard
P. O. Box 180550
Coronado, CA 92178-0550
The SubCommittee
http://www.wolfsong.com/SubCommittee/
Deals with submarines of all nations and all eras, including
Science Fiction.
Contact: Lester E. Hopper, Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Court
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305 (504) 392-8937 FAX
Society for Nautical Research
Publishes the quarterly journal The Nariner's Mirror
Contact: Hon. Secretary Derek G. Law, Librarian
King's College London, University of London
Strand
London WC2 2LS
England
Nautical Archaeology Society
Publishes the quarterly journal International journal of Nautical
Archaeology and Underwater Exploration in association with
Academic press.
Contact: Institute of Archaeology
Gordon Square
London WC1H OPY
England
Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau
German. Publishes the quarterly journal Das Logbuch.
Foreningen Allmogebatar
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Trabiten.
Klubb Maritim
Swedish. Publishes the journal Batologen six times per year.
Kontaktudvalget for dansk maritim historie- og samfundsforskning
Danish. Publishes the anual yearbook Martim Kontakt.
Marinehistorisk Selskab
Danish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinehistorisk Tidskrift.
Contact: Marinehistorisk Selskab, Overgaden oven Vandet 58,
DK-1415 K&oslas; benhaven K, Denmark
Marinarkeologiska Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinarkeologisk Tidskift.
Sjo Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the annual yearbook Forum Navale.
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part14
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part14
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 14) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
(This part is a continuation of part 13)
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
------------------------
Ace Resin (John Nitka) 602-886-8051
7481 E. 30th Street
Tucson, AZ 85710
"At this year's IPMS Nationals, I ran across a vendor which
seemed to have a very good product - both the RTV rubber and
the resin. The rubber I have been getting (Dow-Corning 3110,
I think) seems to be similar to theirs, but the resin seems a
whole lot better than anything else that I have worked with.
John Roll"
A.D.M. Model Supplies
P.O.Box 162491
Altamonte Springs, FL 32716-2491.
(Ultra Pro-Shape is a plastic material, which can be used
fir carving, turning, ewtc. A small sample of Ultra Pro-Shape
and a brochure can be had for <I think> $3.50)
A&M Wood Specialty, Inc. 519-653-9322
358 Eagle Street North 519-653-3441 FAX
P.O. Box 32040 800-447-9344 Orders ONLY
Cambridge, Ontario N3H 5M2
Canada
(They carry an extensive line of all kinds of woods including
boxwood (Castello and English), pear (swiss and domestic),
ebony, lignum vitae, cherry, holly, etc. They publish a
quarterly inventory sheet.)
Alumilite Corp. 616-342-1259
225 Parsons Street 616-342-1299 FAX
Kalamazoo, MI 49007
(Casting products, low viscosity resins; new product:
$PINcaster-9, machine for casting parts in plastic and
low-temperature metals)
Ambroid (Manuel Usle) 802-885-9244
P.O. Box 38 802-885-9223 FAX
Springfield, VT 05156
(They make other things besides model airplane glue, for which
they are best known.)
American Art Clay Co.
4717 W. 16th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46222
("Brush'n Leaf" liquid metal finishes)
American Science & Surplus 847-982-0870
3605 Howard Street 800-934-0722 FAX
Skokie, IL 60076 http://www.sciplus.com
(Mica sheets - for windows, etc.; LOTS of other stuff too.)
Artistry in Veneers, Inc. 908-668-1430
450 Oak Tree Ave.
South Plainfield, NJ 07080
(Veneers, including Pear, Ebony, etc. Catalog $1.50)
Auto-Etch
P.O.Box 12921-A
Philadelphia, PA 19108
(Home etching system)
Badger Air-Brush
9128 W. Belmont Avenue
Franklyn Park, IL 60131
(Well-known name in air-brushes)
Balsa USA 906-863-6421
P.O. Box 164 906-863-5878 FAX
Marinette, WI 54143
(High quality CA glues...lower allergy symptoms)
Belmont Metals, Inc. 719-342-4900
Attn: Phil Karmel
330 Belmont Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11207
(Britannia metal $12 + in bulk)
Berea Hardwoods (Warehouse) 216-234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Cleveland OH
- or -
Berea Hardwoods (Office) 216-243-4452
125 Jacqueline Drive,
Berea OH 44017
(specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
more mundane species. The proprietor is fun to talk to.)
Circuit Board Supplies, Inc. 708-595-7570
820 Maple Lane
Bensonville, IL 60106
(Copper foil in bulk)
Cindy's Stiches 708-368-5183
1449 Glencoe Avenue
Highland Park, Il 60035
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
Clotilde 800-772-2891
2 Sewsmart Way
B8031
Stevens Point, WI 54481-8031
(source for silk thread)
Constantine 800-223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road
Bronx, NY 10461
(Specialty wood for crafts)
Craft Woods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
P.O. Box 527
Timonium, MD 21093
(Carving woods, tools, books, etc. -- free catalog)
Deknatel
Queen's Village
New York, 11429
(Supplies braided surgical silk (non-sterile). Available in
spools pf 25 yards or 100 yards in black or white. '7-0'
measures as .003" and '6-0' measures as .0045".)
Eager Plastics 312-927-3483
3701 South Halstead
Chicago, IL 60609
(Casting materials, resins, RTV, etc.)
Edmond Scientific Co.
101 East Gloucester Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007-1380
(Gears, motors, etc.)
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 N.E. 125th Way
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Plastic material, sheet, formed shapes)
Exotic Woods Inc. 905-335-8066 *NEW*
2483 Industrial Street 905-335-7080
Burlington , Ontario, Canada, L7P 1A6
(They will ship anywhere via UPS or parcel post. They have
great stock of marine, Finnish, and Baltic plywood plus
basswood, boxwood, holly, sycamore, mahogany,walnut, pear etc.)
Flagship Models
2204 Summer Way Lane
Edmond, OK 73013
(1:700 photoetched warship fittings)
Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. 518-843-3610
4715 State Hwy 30
Amsterdam, NY 12010-9204
(Model ship scale colors; they will send you catalog and
order form if you give them a call.)
FOTOCUT 315-662-3356
F. Hultberg
Box 120
Erieville, NY 13061
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Fowler's Miniatures in Wood 916-478-8919
18175 Blue Tent School Rd.
Nevada City, CA 95959
(A dollhouse supplier, but also carries a variety of woods.
Can also do custom milling of your timber. Free wood price
list.)
Gold Medal Models (Loren Perry)
Route 2 mailto:gold...@rockisland.com
Box 3104
Lopez, WA 98261
(GMM ship fitting and decal scales start at 1/720 and end at
1/96 scales, but the bulk the my offerings are in 1/700,
1/400, 1/350, and 1/200 scales, for WWII and modern ships)
Gilmor Wood Co. 503-274-1271
2211 N.W. St. Helens Road 503-274-9839 (Fax)
Portland OR 97210
(large variety of unusual woods, such as 16/4 pear, etc.)
GLOBEX (Mike Redman) 510-568-1851
6836 Outlook Ave. 510-521-5409 (Fax)
Oakland, CA 94605
(specializing in laser cutting to your plans! Has the
capability of digitizing from the plans, scaling the resulting
CAM drawings, and cutting the parts for whatever you want --
bulkhead, Hahn system, or dockyard! Also has kits consisting
of ALL parts laser cut for Hahn system, or major parts along
with wood for you to cut. Also does laser cutting for other kit
suppliers.)
H-R Products
P.O. Box 67
McHenry, IL 60051
(Manufacturer of cast naval fittings)
K&S Engineering 312-586-8556
6917 W. 59th Street
Chicago, IL 60638
(Sheet & formed metal shapes, drills, taps, dies -- Catalog
$1.00)
Kiyo Design (Nancy Hoyt) 410-280-1942
11 Annapolis St.
Annapolis MD
(Potential model sailmaking material, both all natural and
mixed natural/synthetic, which looks like just the thing for
us -- up to about 200 threads per inch. Welcomes small orders
(1/4 yard minimum). Ask for "down cambric" or "swiss pima
batiste".)
Lace Place De Belgique 407-368-0808
800 S.W. 17th St.
Boca Raton, Fla. 33486
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Lacemaker 206-486-0940
23732-G Bothell Hwy. SE
Bothell, Ga 98021
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Lumberyard (Dave Stevens) 216-526-2173
6908 Stadium Dr.
Brecksville, OH 44141
(Pre- and custom-cut hardwoods - pre-cut framing timbers for
HAHN models)
Details - SASE; Catalog $2.00
Metal Buyers Mart 708-628-8620
N15 W22218 Watertown Rd. 1-708-628-8747 FAX
Unit #3
Waukesha, WI 53186
(This source has an excellent variety of brass rod in numerous
shapes and cross sections as well as nickle silver along with
many others. They also carry phosphor bronze sheet which makes
into great scrapers for shaving wood. The catalog is $3.00 and
contains a glossary and table concerning the various metals and
what they can be used for. Pricing is reasonable and is
configured for small purchases.)
Modellers Shipyard *NEW*
P.O. Box 406
Nowra, NSW 2541
Australia
(Write and ask for a price list. They have a selection of
different woods.)
Nancy's Notions, Ltd. 800-833-0690
P.O. Box 683
Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683
(source for silk thread)
Newark 800-736-6783
6473 Ruch Road
P.O. Box 27030
Lehigh Valley, PA 18002-0730
(source for silk thread)
New England Reprographics 1-800-244-8887 (MA only)
80 Mid-Tech Drive 508-790-1114 *NEW*
West Yarmouth, MA 02673 508-790-3432 FAX
("Imperial Blue" DRAFTING LINEN! current prices:
24 x 36 inch sheet = 13.63/sheet;
36 x 20 YARD roll(yes yard)= 350.00; and
42 x 20 yard roll = 375.00. Accepts mail-order.)
Northeastern Scale Models, Inc. 508-688-6019
P. O. Box 727SE
Metheun, Mass. 01844
(Laid-up decking, shaped lumber - 1/4 & 1/2 round, double-bead,
stripwood)
Catalog - $1.00
Pelican Wire Co., Inc 813-597-8555
6266 Taylor Road
Naples, FL 33942
(Nichrome wire for laying up wire rope)
Phoenix Model Co. 904-754-8522
(all types of models, some non-main-line manufacturers, 15-25%
sales)
Plastruct 800-666-7015
1020 S. Wallace Place
City of Industry, CA 91748
(Sheet and shaped plastic)
Photofabrication Engineering Inc.
500 Fortune Drive
Milford, MA
(They do a nice job and generally supply in 18" x 24" sheets.
As a general rule, if you send them the artwork, it will cost
about $250 for the first sheet (set up fees, art fees, etc.);
after that, sheets are about $30. -- Al Ross)
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Tools, gears)
Roman Barzana 813-882-4925 (6:30-10 p.m. EST)
8102 N. Sheldon Rd. #1308
Tampa FL 33615
(Fine woods for the serious artist)
Robin's Bobbins 404-374-6916
Rt 1 Box 1736
Mineral Bluff, Ga 30559
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Scale Shipyard (Lee Upshaw) 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. # 3 mailto:Scals...@aol.com
Long Beach, CA 90805
(Makes fiberglass hulls for both the Gato & Balao class subs of
WW II in 1/8"=1', 1/4"=1' and 1:72 scales. These are hulls with
the fiberglass conning tower, cast resin dive planes and cast
metal guns and fittings, alot of scratch building is required
to build these and they are for the more advanced modeler but
plenty of novices have built these, they have good accuracy and
the 2 larger boats are suitable for R/C. It should be noted that
these are not kits. Their 1996 submarine only catalog is now
available for $3.00. The full catolog of the surface ships in
these same scales is available for $6.00.)
Small Parts Inc. 800-423-9009
13980 N.W. 58th Court 303-558-1255 (catalog)
P.O. Box 4650 303-557-7955 (service)
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650
(Gears, shapes, parts, screen, hypodermic tubing, drills, etc.)
Special Shapes Co.
P.O. Box 487
Romeoville, IL 60441
(Small brass structural shaoes -- catalog $1.00)
Ron Stetkewicz, minaturist 518-622-8311
HCR-1 Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Stock Drive Products 516-328-3300
2101 Jerico Turnpike
Box 5416
New Hyde Park, NY 11042
(Belt drives for R/C)
Testor Corporation (Nancy Rainwater) 815-962-6654
620 BuckBee Street 815-962-7401 FAX
Rockford, IL 61104
(Model piants, airbrushes)
Van Dyke's Restorers 605-796-4425
4th Ave & 6th St. 1-800-843-3320 (orders only)
PO Box 278
Woonsocket, SD 57385
(primarily house/furniture restoration supplies, but some
odd item hard to find elsewhere -- such as MICA...useful for
model ports, windows, etc.)
Von Huene Workshop, Inc. 617-232-6288
65 Boylston Street
Brookline, MA 02146
(Boxwood! $3.oo/pound, $45 minimum, + postage. This is a maker
of musical instruments, such as recorders; this wood is of
excellent quality, but consists of pieces he can't use - off
cuts, slabs, pieces with knots and splits; still a great source
- our club bought 40+ lbs and resold individual pieces to
members at $.20/oz.)
Warner Woods West 310-326-5177 (eve. & wkends)
2083 Reynosa Drive
P. O. Box 5173
Torrance, CA 90510
(Dommestic & Imported woods, pre- & custom cuts - single, double
triple blocks. Also has taken over the line of linen thread
formerly provided by Unicorn Books and Crafts. Details - SASE)
Woodcraft *NEW*
210 Wood County Industrial Park 1-800-225-1153 (credit card orders.
PO Box 1686
Parkersburg, West VA 26102-1686
(Their basic catalog contains lots of nice tools.)
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
-------------
AMW 207-633-3698
P.O. Box 384
East Boothbay, ME 04544-0348
(Custom display cases)
BK Engraving Co. 617-451-1483
373 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02108
(Brass nameplates engraved to order)
Eclectic Products, Inc 1-800-767-4667
(Information on contact cement (!) )
Conservation Products Company 702-331-0582
1165 Marietta Way
P.O.Box 2884
Sparks, Nevada 83131
(products for conservators (e.g, antiques, books, etc.); some
are useful for cleaning ship models.)
Gbishop 510-820-1986
Geoffrey Bishop
P.O. Box 874
Danville CA 94526
(Resin "dollhouse" architectural castings, but some of them can
provide sources for carved ornimental mouldings - catalog $2.00)
George M. Creations
Crane Rd. Rd 12
Carmel, NY 10512
(Museum Quality Display Cases - Free Brochure)
H. B. Rusk Company 316-552-7381
1279 S. Minnesota
Wichita, KS 67211
(Custom oak display cases)
Hotchkiss Manufacturing 800-444-5005
484 Pleasant Valley Road 503-476-4418 (in OR)
Merlin, OR 97532 http://www.chatlink.com/~hotchkiss
mailto:hotc...@chatlink.com
("Case Clear", cleans and glazes glass and plexiglass)
HY-TECH 301-916-2280
P. O. Box 111
Odenten, MD 21113-0111
(Fail safes, automatic light controls, water detectors,
automatic circuit breakers and voltage regulators)
Itty Bitty Builder 510-947-1572
Larry Herman
405 Kirby Court
Walnut Creek, CA 94598
(Doll house stuff, scales 1:12, 1:24, 1:48; some of the latter
might be useful for ship modeling)
J. A. Gates, Cabinet Maker 207-967-2405
P. O. Box 272
Cape Porpoise, ME 04014
(Museum quality hand rubbed cherry cases. Beautifully finished
and reasonably priced. Satisfaction guaranteed)
Jim Campbell, Artist 408-453-6173
335 W. Rosemary St.
San Jose, CA 95110
Microbrush Corporation (Mark Phillips, VP) 813-572-8444
4505 131st Avenue North #8 813-573-1028 (FAX)
Clearwater, FL 34622
(bendable applicators/brushes for reaching those hard-to-reach
places)
Rick S. Fortenberry, Owner (508) 385-4019
Cape Cod Scale Watercraft mailto:Wha...@aol.com
Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models
1335 Route 134
POB 1459
East Dennis MA 02641-1459
http://www.mywebpage.com/mwps1/cntrys1/usa/ma/eastden/5686.htm
("Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models")
Graham K. Salt + 44-329-239561
6 Flamingo Court
Fareham, Hampshire PO16 8PQ England
(Research Historian - Maritime/Military Commissions Accepted)
Stitkewicz Chemical Milling 518-622-8311
HCR 1
Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Small jobs, Production Jobs, Prototypes)
Treasure Beach Co. (Kathryn St. Amant) 310-473-1137
P.O. Box 10263 310-473-1197 FAX
Marina Del Rey, CA 90292 mailto:capt...@AOL.com
2412 Federal Avenue
Los Angelesm CA 90064
(Kathy (the owner), creates bronze, brass, silver (even gold)
castings of cannons, figureheads (she has a really neat lion)
stern, gallery, and porthole carvings, not to mention "little
people".)
United States Naval Institute 800-233-USNI
Customer Service 410-224-2406 (FAX)
Operations Center
2062 Generals Highway
Annapolis MD 21401
(best selection of naval books, discounts for members)
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS, CONSERVERS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Admiralty Model Gallery 409-766-1777
Harbor House #28, Pier 21
Galveston, TX 77550
(Models, gifts, restorations)
All Hands On Deck 212-748-8668
Model Shipbuilding- Restorations & Repair
at The Maritime Crafts Center
South Street Seaport Museum
New York, NY 10038
Atten: Gregory J. Williams
(Build from scratch or kit scale model ships. All Hands On
Deck also builds ships-in-bottles, scale musical instruments,
and dioramas. Also repair or restore damaged models.)
Altec Plasstics, Inv. 617-269-1400
116 B Street 617-269-8484 (FAX)
Boston, MA 02127
(Acrylic displays and custom model cases)
ALNAVCO 804-442-2323
Box 9
Belle have, VA 23306
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
American Marine Model Gallery 508-745-5777
R. Michael Wall, Director 508-745-5778 (FAX)
12-IN Derby Square mailto:wall...@aol.com
Salem, MA 01970
(Since 1975: Offering an extensive selection of fully
documented, investment grade, one of a kind ship models, by
the world's finest marine model artists. Each model is
constructed to museum quality standards. Restorations,
Appraisals, Display cases, Lighting and Custom built models.
Fully Illustrated Catalog $10.00 US, $15.00 overseas)
Ancient Mariner, Inc.
238 15th Street #13
Atlanta, GA 30309
(Antiques)
Andrew Jacobson Marine Antiques 508-468-6276
P.O. Box 2155
South Hamilton, MA 01982
("Americana . Ship Models . Out-of-print Books . Paintings .
Catalogs at Whim . Vintage Photos")
Antiques of the Sea (by appt.) 310-592-1752
16811 Pacific Coast Hwy
Sunset Beach, CA 90742-0023
Arrangements, Inc., Marine Division 914-238-1300
P.O. Box 126
Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
(Models)
Bill Thomte T/A, St Michaels 410-745-3080
P.O. Box 299
St. Michaels, MD 21663
(Nautical antiques)
David Air (by appt.) 212-925-7867
8 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013
(Model & marine art & artifacts)
Dockyard Ship Model Gallery 315-824-2462
P. O. Box 303
Hamilton, NY 13346
(Museum quality investment grade ship models)
John Johnson's Steel Navy Models 512-839-2134
2310 Lambros
Midland, MI 48642
("Contract models of 20th century ships costom built for the
discriminating collector. Specializing in USN Warships.
For an illustrated brochure send $2.00")
International Marine 800-822-8158
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0840
(books, videos, etc.) free catalog
Lannan Ship Models 617-451-3650
58 Thayer St.
Boston, MA 02118
("Ship Models Wanted")
The Military Bookman 212-348-1280
29 East 93rd Street
New York, NY 10128
Mystic Maritime Gallery 203-572-8524
Mystic Seaport Museum Stores, Inc.
Mystic, CT 06355
Rob Napier 508-462-6970
62 Marlboro Street
Newburyport, MA 01950-3130
(full- & half-hull ship models; model conservation and consultation)
North Star Gallery 212-794-4277
1120 Lexington Ave at 78th St.
New York, NY 10021
(Models)
Oliphant & Co. 212-439-0007
790 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10021
(Marine arts)
John Pignatelli 310-548-7618
Artist in Residence
L. A. Maritime Museum
Berth 84
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Hand custom crafted ship models built, restored, molds made)
Port & Starboard 207-781-4214
67 Johnson Road
Falmouth, ME 04105
(Antiques & art)
Preston 516-477-1990
Main Street Warf
Greenport, LI, NY 11944
(Dealer, nautical items)
Safe Harbor (Frank A. Wolz) 602-998-8982
5722 E. Corrine Dr.
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
(Model display cases)
Sara Conklin, ISA 415-467-6249
239 Sierra Pt. Rd.
Brisbane, CA 94005-1664
(Ship model appraiser)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
7850 E. Evans Road, Suite 109
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(Models -- free catalog)
Seafarer Ltd. 609-652-9491
Rt 9, Lily Lake
Oceanville, NJ 08231
(Free brochure, $3.00 for list)
Showcase Model Company
P.O. Box 470
State College, PA 16804-0470
Shuttleworth
P.O.Box 231
West Covina, CA 91792
(Maritime ephemera, models art & antiques)
Tall Ships (Fred E. Tournier) 303-922-9882
Master Model Shipwright
1435 S. Fenton
Lakewood, CO 80226
(Custom-built models, appraisals, repairs)
West Sea Co. 619-296-5356
2495 Congress Street
San Diago, CA 92110
(Nautical antiques and art -- free catalog)
Frank Wilhite 909-865-1238
Ship Model Commissions, restoration & Repairs
(no address)
(Frank has also been doing quite a lot more model repairs
-- lots of people are using him as a source & reference...)
Vallejo 714-642-7945
1610 West Coast Hwy
Newport Beach, CA 92663
(Art & antiques)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part13
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part13
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 13) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
=========================
Bluejacket: We're Here
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Scooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, pinky
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
Note: Catalog prices, where shown, are as listed; many companies will
send updates free once you've bought something, and may send
the first one free if you ask. Some companies will also include
a voucher in the purchased catalog that will apply the catalog
price to the first purchase.
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
--------------------
ABCD Industries 410-717-4111
1320 Light Street
Baltimore, MD 21230
(all sorts of rivets. You call & explain what you need. They
will ship to you.)
A. J. Fisher 810-541-0352
1002 Etowah Ave.
Royal Oaks, Michigan 48067
(Solid-hull kits, brass ship & yacht fittings, prints, books)
Catalog - $3.00
Air Land and Sea 703-684-5118
1215 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(Out of production kits)
APC Hobbies (Charlie Pace) 804-973-2705
PO Box 122 804-973-8884 FAX
Link Evens Lane http://http://www.apchobbies.com
Earlysville VA 22936 mailto:A...@ESINET.NET
(General models, 3-4 week service, 25% discount, ~monthly
updates)
Arror Graphics 416-692-4921
R.R. #1
York, Ontario N0A 1R0
canada
(Canadian flags, markings)
Amherst Minatures (W. J. Marshall) 313-485-2855
1220 S. Congress
Ypsilanti, MI 48197
(scale model warships & more)
Catalog - $2.00
Atlas Model Railroad Co., Inc. 908-687-8857
378 Florence Ave.
Hilside, NJ 07205
(Free, Fantastic Layout Booklet. For free copies,
send #10 S.A.S.E. (52 cents). )
Catalog - Free(1994)
BaD Ship Models 607-638-9266
P.O. Box 214
Westford, NY 13488
(NEW ADDRESS!!! 1:96 plank on frame kits; Brochure: $2.00)
Billing Boats A/S
Gejsing
6600 Vejen
Denmark
(makers of kits which allow one to make a model with marvelous
and true lines. Some of their fittings are not that good,
however. Their kits are carried by many US dealers and hobby
shops.
I know Billing as makers of kits which allow one to make a
model with marvelous and true lines. Some of their fittings
are below my standards, however.)
Bluejacket Shipcrafters 800-448-5567
P. O. Box 425-N 207-548-9970
Stockton Springs, Maine 04981-0425 207-548-9974 FAX
(solid hull & POF kits, brass & britannia fittings, plans,
wood, books, custom casting available)
Catalog - $2.00
Blue Water Navy 803-767-4209
P.O.Box 8421, Festival Center mailto:mbish...@aol.com
Charlston, SC 29418
(resin, white metal & etched brass kits - don't know scales;
latest is ~8.5 inch Russian Alfa Class Submarine: $35.00)
Bureau of Small Warships
P.O. Box 288102
San Diego, CA 92128-0993
(They make all the US WW2 destroyer classes. These are 1/700
scale resin kits of outstanding quality. These kits are $26.00
each plus $2.50 shipping)
Classic Warships
Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
(1:700 Warships USS California, West Virginia, Detroit, Alaska.
Italian Battleships Cavour, Littorio, Zara Cruiser. New, ship
model rulers. $3 catalog. [from Todd Hoogerland])
Cleanline Hulls 403-243-6924
1736 - 49 st 403-246-0582 FAX
Calgary, Alberta Canada T2T 2T9
(Large ship kits for RC)
C H Enterprises 805-684-3673 (Eve. & weekends)
P. O. Box 31146
Santa Barbara, CA 93130-1146
(Kits, books, tools & supplies - "Tattered Ensign")
Catalog - $3.00 (refundable); SASE for current specials
Coast Guard Models 708-437-4687
110 Essex Road
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
(Hulls & semi-kits)
Cole's Power Models (Betty Cole)
839 E. Front St.
P. O. Box 788
Ventura, CA 93002
(Marine and other steam engines, castings, supplies)
Commander Models
551 Wegman Rd
Rochester, NY 14624
(Resin models, including BJ GAMBIER BAY)
Copeland Models
16 Dover Rd.
Hampton, VA 23666-2333
(R/C submarine kits)
Cottage Industry Models
1632-B Ashley River Rd.
Charleston, S.C. 29407
(1:32 multimedia model of the Civil War submarine, the Hunley.
This is a very nice kit; resin kit with about 30 pieces and a
1 piece hull. They intend to make all the Ironclads that were
in Charleston, starting with the Confederates.)
Darnel Models +44 (0)923 673107
33 High Street
Watford
Herts
WD3 7AE
England
(Type VII german submarine)
Deans marine +44 (0)1733 244166
Conquest Drove
Farcet Fen
Peterborough, PE7 3DH
England
(Their adv. states that a catalogue is UKP 4.50 incl p&p.)
Diamond Enterprises & Book Publishers
Division of Yesteryear Toys and Books, Inc.
Box 537
Bailey Settlement Rd
Alexandria, N.Y. 13607
(Steam engines)
Flightpath (David J. Parkins) 44-1348-831-534
Trefacwn Fach
Llanrhian, St. David's
Dyfed, SA62-6DP
Wales
Tel/Fax: 0348-831534
(Flower Class Corvette 1/72 scale detail set. Cost as of late
'92 was 39.90 GBP (Sterling) & 5.64 P&P overseas)
There are also a set of resin replacements available for the corvette
from another British firm....
Sirmar 44(1)384 263252
PO Box 127
Stourbridge, West Midlands
DY8 5XY
D&E Minatures 804-468-4687
835 Holly Hedge Avenue
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
(1:96 resin subs, including SKIPJACK; Water-tight Cylinders)
Dragon Model & Pattern 206-465-2427
231 Hull Road
Grays River, WA 98621
(1:200 resin subs -- list $1.00)
The Dromedary (Lois Roth) 915-584-2445
Ship Modeler's Center
6324 Belton Drive
El Paso, Texas 79912
(Very complete supply of kits, fittings, plans, books, lumber,
etc.) Catalog - $6.00
Dumas 602-623-3742
909 E. 17th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(Manufacturer of static and R/C wood & fiberglass kits)
Dynamic Models
Drawer C
Port Jefferson Station, NY 11776
(Manufacturer of kits & fittings)
Engineered Specialties
PO Box 156
Seeley Lake, MT 59868
(Submarines; 1/96 scale SSN-637, 1/72 Alfa, coming 1/48 German
Type XXI. Catalog $ 2)
Four Star Collectibles 603-635-7639
(Marco's Miniatures)
P.O. Box 658
Dracut, MA 01826
(Huge selection of out-of-production kits, some ship models.
These guys have hundreds of kits from Aurora, Monogram, Revell,
Hawk, MPC, and others.)
Glencoe Models, Inc. 508-869-6877
P.O. Box 864
Northboro, MA 01532
(Plastic 20th century models)
GLEN-L Marine Designs 213-774-2585
9152 Rosecrans, Ca. 90706
(This company sells books, plans, videos, kits and just about
anything you want in the lines of boats. Catalog of boat
designs is ~$4.00.)
Great Planes Model Dist. Co. 217-398-3630
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021
(R/C kit distributer)
GULFSTREAM kits are distributed by:
Marco Polo Imports
City of Industry, CA.
(Resin Kits, including 'USS Ward'. GULFSTREAM (Mike Ashey) can
be contacted directly at 2070 Wildridge Drive, Tallahassee, FL
32303.)
H&B Precision Card Models 703-281-0813
2026 Spring Branch Dr. 703-281-0813 (FAX)
Vienna, Virginia 22181-2973
(Carries Wilhelmshaven line of ships and aircraft, and some
HO/N scale buildings. -- catalog: $5.00 with $5.00 coupon)
Hamilton Hobby Specialists (Susan Bousfield) 905-549-1226
236 Kenilworth Ave, N.
Hamilton, Ontario L8H 4S5
Canada
(This store serves southern Ontario. They have been around for
40+ years and carry a good range of boat kits (wooden and
plastics), fittings (Billing and others), tools, and books. )
Harbor Models 714-435-0716
17457 Appalachian Street
Fountain Valley CA 92708
(The Cheddar Models line of preassembled steam engines, as well
as a large variety of hulls and full kits sutiable for steam.)
Hartman Fiberglass R/C 217-795-2275
P.O. Box 86
Argenta, IL 62501
(Manufacturer of kits)
Hobby House's Quarterdeck
5622 Hwy 153
Chattanooga, TN 37343
(Distributer of US & foreign kits -- Catalog - $2.50)
Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027
(Mail order hobby shop)
Hobby World of Montreal (Sam Benshir) 514-481-5434
514-481-5468 FAX
mailto:in...@hobbyworld-inc.com
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/
(Wooden ships, Dollhouses, Plastic models, Custom showcases,
Tools, Books, etc. In particular:
Tool section: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/maintool.html ;
Model Cases: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/showcase.html ;
Ship fittings: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/mainship.html .)
Howard Enterprises 310-547-3464
Frank's Mosquito Boat Hobbies (Frank DiMeglio)
866 W. 19th Street
San Pedro, CA 90731
(1:20 Higgens & Elco PT kits; boat upgrades & customizing)
International Marine Exchange 215-357-2163
215 Philmont Avenue
Feasterville, PA 19047
(Kits)
JAC Models 603-778-7280
2800A Lafayette Rd. #199
Porthsmouth, NH 03801
(Balsa wood models, Coast Guard boats and cutters, Victory ship
and tugboat -- Catalog: $1.00)
Laughing Whale (Inc. Midwest Boats) == NOW PART OF BLUEJACKET!
Lindberg
328 N. Westwood Ave
Toledo, OH 43607
(Plastic kit manufacturer -- 32 page catalog)
Lone Star Models (Mike & Laurie West) mailto:lsmo...@ix.netcom.com
P. O. Box 770954 http://www.lonestarmodels.com
13758 Drakewood
Sugarland TX 77478
(Civil War ironclads, 1/192 cast resin with brass and white
metal parts; catalog: $2.00.)
Maritime Models Greenwich 081-858-5661
7 Nelson Rd 081-853-1508 FAX
Greenwich, London, SE10 9JB
(Major british hobby store, specializes in maritime modeling,
and just outside the gates of theGreenwich Maritime Museum!)
The Maryland Silver Company (Duane Borchers) 410-451-2135
PO Box 2368 mailto:mda...@annap.infi.net
Easton MD 21601
(Plans, models of Civil War ironclads; Catalog is about $5
or $6.)
McKenzie Company 206-881-2352
P.O. Box 2766
Redmond, WA 98073-2766
(McKenzie Drift Boat model kit)
Manta Submarines
3300 Apex PL.
North Vancouver BC
Canada V7H2R5
(1:72 Scale SSN-637)
Maritime Models Greenwich + 081-858 5661
7 Nelson Road
Greenwich, London SE10 England
(Good shop, just outside the gates of the Maritime Museum at
Greenwich; catalog is 65p, but you should send a couple of
dollars + International Reply Coupons, as the cost of airmail
is high.)
Maritime Museum Models (John Pignatelli) 310-548-7618
Los Angeles Maritime Museum
Berth 84
P.O. Box 1147
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Fiberglass hulls of warships & commercial vessels)
Masterpieces in Minature
P.O. Box 387
Medford, MA 02155
MCD Model Control Devices 705-738-1335
PO Box 173
18 Reid Street
Bobcaygeon, Ontario
Canada K0M 1AO
(705) 738-1335
(Electronics - Speed controls, monitors, multi-switch devices)
Midwest Product Co., Inc 219-942-1134
400 S. Indiana St.
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
("Rainbow" - America's Cup J-Boat Class Racer)
call to locate nearest dealer
Model Boats Unlimited 609-783-9163
P.O. Box 1135
Haddonfield, NJ 08033
(Warship & pleasure boats, catalog $7.00; current update $4.00)
The Model Dockyard (Nick Tonkin) +44 1872 222120
Tremorvah Barton +44 1872 260073 FAX
Truro Email: mailto:mo...@dockyard.co.uk
Cornwall, TR1 1NN WWW: http://www.dockyard.co.uk
England
1872 260073
(Worldwide mail order. Specialist suppliers to the scale ship
modeller. Period & modern kits, worlds largest selection of
boat fittings, timber, plans, steam plants, hand & power tools,
books, etc etc. Complete catalogue is available on Web site.)
Model Expo, Inc. 800-222-3876
P. O. Box 1000 717-839-2090 FAX
Mt. Pocono Industrial Park http://www.modelexpoinc.com/
Tobyhanna, PA. 18460-9985
(Specializes in imported plank-on-bulkhead kits, some others,
fittings, books, tools)
Model Shipways Division - (well researched kits - solid hull
& POF, fittings, books specifically covering many of their
models)
Espec. Recommended - "Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay" by
Campbell, and "Historic Ship Models" by zu Mondfelt)
Combined Catalog - $5.00
Model Shipways == ACQUIRED BY MODEL EXPO!
Midwest Products Co 219-942-1134
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
(Manufactured of small craft)
Naval Base 718-471-3226
PO Box 207
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(One of the few sources for Nichimo 1/500 scale Japanese
warships, and have a nice catalog; Plastic/resin ships, wide
selection, ~list prices, accessories and a few books.)
Naval Works 714-646-6746
1964 Federal Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(1:700 resin kits)
The Naval Base 516-295-9525
560 Willow Avenue
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(They carry pretty much all of the current-production plastic
ship models. They also list the following Pre-WWII resin kits
(some scratchbuilding is required). [from Todd Hoogerland]).
( Unlike most model catalogs, the kits are grouped by catagory,
i.e. British Battleships, American Aircraft Carriers, Japanese
Subs, etc. Scales and kit manufacturers are all mixed up
within catagories, though. Prices don't look that great, but
they do have a lot of stuff most mail order places don't carry
and the novel organization by ship type is very useful.
[from Matt Melchert]).
North River Scale Models, Inc.(Jim & Marilyn Roberts)
P. O. Box 426 mailto:SSBNd...@aol.com
Dover, N. J. 07802
(POF & solid kits, cannon, brass & brittiania fittings,
re-issuing Marine Model kits - Catalog - $3.00)
Pacific Front Hobbies (Bill Gruner) 206-821-2564
11804 NE 138th St. 206-821-9034 (FAX)
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Distributer 1:1250 to 1:192 resin kits; and (mostly WWII)
aircraft and books; list price, wide selections, periodic
updates; Full line catalog is $5.00, UPDATE subscription is
$6.00/year for 6 issues, and new 1250TH FLEET newsletter for
1/1250 collectors is $4.00/year. Accept Visa, Mastercard and
Amex. mailto:pacf...@accessone.com )
Paper Models International 503-646-4289
9910 S.W. Bonnie Brae Drive
Beaverton OR 97005
(Extensive catalog of ships, aircraft, vehicles, and others.)
Pleasant Cove Models Email: mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
17-N Potter Rd http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger
Framingham MA 01701
(Wood kits of small craft, built like full size boats. Sea Bird
Yawl, Skiff, Canoes, Lobster Boats, etc. Also made to order
cases and custom machine shop work related to model boats.)
Catalog - $2.00
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Precision tools, materials, lights, fiber optics, pneumatics,
motors, gears, bearings, couplings and hardware -- catalog:
$3.00 - payable to Lawrence J. Milo)
Rocky Mountain Scale Subs Unlimited
4255 South Buckley Road # 120
Aurora, CO 80013
(1:50 Scale Type XXI U-boat; SS-1 HOLLAND, etc.; catalog, $4.00.)
Rocky Mountain Shipyard (Lisa Norman) 970-434-0703 *NEW*
590 Ronlin Street mailto:r...@iti2.net
Grand Junction, CO 81504 http:www.iti2.net/~rms/
(Mail order retail; books, plans, resin kits for ship modelers.
Catalog: $4.00)
Sagebrush Models 307-686-1437
801 Overdale Dr.
Gillette. WY 82716
(Good selection of out-of-production kits, some ship models.
Most brands offered. Also deal in some current stuff. The guy
that runs the business is also a Park Ranger, so delivery in
the summer is spotty {He says this in the price list}.)
Saturated Steam 1-800-423-9009
A division of Small Parts, Inc.
P.O. Box 4175
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0175
(steam engines, some suitable for model boats)
The Scale Shipyard / Warship Hulls Unlimited 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. #3
Long Beach, CA. 90805-4146
(WWI-present fiberglass hulls, etc., for radio control models)
Catalog - $6.00
I don't know if this is the same:
The Scale Shipyard
3727 166th Pl. S.W.
Lynnwood WA 98037-7072
(Many different subs, American, German, Japanese; Catalog $6.00)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
(sorry, no address)
(USS Constitution Kit, 1/8th scale. Costs $490 for the kit)
Select Hobby Supplies 203-633-9064
P.O. Box 723
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Dealer kits & fittings)
Ship Ahoy Models and Minatures 617-233-6134
18 Cooper St. Boston, MA 02133
(models and tools -- catalog $1.00)
Ships N'Things 908-722-0075
P.O. Box 605-D
Somerville, NJ 08876
(R/C & Static -- Catalog - $5.00 (refundable)
Scaleships (Armand Veronico) 310-822-8945
P O Box 12131
Marina del Rey, CA 90295
(large variety of fiberglass hulls)
Scale Specialties 714-535-7486
P. O. Box 1117
Fullerton, CA
(Wargaming accessories, art prints, archival documents
(declassified) )
Catalog - $5.00
Sirmar Model Ship Fittings +44 384 263252
P.O Box 127
Stourbridge
West midlands
DY8 5XY
England
(1:96 fiberglass model of U.S.S. Farion (56" long), U.S.S.
Ticonderoga (7.5" long). [from Nick Tonkin])
Slagel Models, Inc.
P.O. Box 1639
Longview, WA 98632-7791
(Manufacturer nuclear submarine resin kits)
Squadron Mail Order 214-242-8663
1115 Crowley Drive 214-242-3775 FAX
Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 http://www.squadron.com/mailorder/
(Dealer plastic kits - ships, planes, armor; General models,
fast service, list prices, monthly updates)
R. Stab +33-1-42-97-44-76
35 Rue Des Petits Champs +33-1-42-86-81-54 FAX
Paris 1, France
(Anyone interested in decorative items for period ships should
obtain one of their catalogs. The price of 75 French Francs
($15.00) is a bit much but its well worth it. BTW if they have
kept their catalog in the same format as in the past, all of
their fittings are shown photographically and in their actual
size. Be prepared to deal with a French language publication.)
Sterling Models, Inc. 215-426-4100
3100 C St.
Philadelphia, PA 19134
(Manufactures kits of the Emma Berry and America.)
Super Scale International, Inc. 702-882-8887
P.O. Box 1017
Carson City, NV 89702
(Decals for military aircraft in various scales.)
SWAMPWORKS MFG 417-831-2309 9-5 CDT Mon-Fri
1810 N. Farm Rd. 197 Email: mailto:SWAM...@aol.com
Springfield, MO 65802 http://www.kutz.com/swampworks/
{SWAMPWORKS MFG. offers a complete line of warship kits,
drive gear, bilge pumps, BB cannons, and CO2 delivery systems
designed just for the sport / hobby of R/C Model Warship Combat.
A package consisting of: catalog, price list, a brochure about
the hobby of R/C model warship combat, information about
contacting club members and club membership, and a copy of the
Battling and Construction rules along with the legal ship list
of the INT'L R/C WARSHIP COMBAT CLUB. is available for $6.00.)
Thoroughbred Figures (Toby Barrett) 757-471-5918
3833 Buckhorn Place
Virginia Beach, VA 23456
(1:600 white metal Civil War ironclads & ships)
Tom's Modelworks 408-777-TOMS
1050 Cranberry Drive
Cupertino, CA 95014 USA.
(1:350 complete PE sheet for the Tamiya Fletcher; $16)
Tower Hobbies 800-637-6050
P.O. Box 9078 800-637-4989 (order asst)
Champaign, IL 61826-9078
(Mail order hobby shop)
Twelve Squared *NEW*
P.O. Box 21567
Eagan, MN 55121-0567
(Resin model of CSS Hunley. Send a SASE for a catalog.)
The Underground Modeller (Ted Waters) 1-800-808-KITS
http://www.pathcom.com/~unmodel
unm...@pathcom.com
(wooden ship models, airplane, and metal car models)
Ultracast 519-823-0181
POB 20005
Woodlawn Postal Outlet
Guelph, Ontario N1H 6H6
(Canadian Tribal class destroyer and HMCS HURON; both
waterline 1:700)
Valley Plaza Hobbies 702-887-1027
2211 Mouton Drive 702-887-1027 (FAX)
Carson City, NV 89706-0471
(Model ship kits and supplies)
Catalog - $3.00
Vanguard Model Marine
2446 Bank Street, Unit 113
Ottawa, Canada KIV 1A4
(specialized in Canadian Warships. Catalog $2.00)
Village Hobby Shop (George Lewis) 512-452-6401
2700 W. Anderson Ln, Suite 402
Austin, TX 78757
(Ship model kits)
Vintage Limited, USA (Joan Scott) 713-249-8687
(No Address)
California.
(1:1200 or 1:1250 models)
VOCO MARINE MODEL
355 Barrington Ridge
Painesville, OH 44077
(Has released 1/87 (HO) scale kits of a Flush Deck 700 footer
and a 450' tanker in the past.)
Westbourne Model Centre 0202-763480
41 Seamoor Road 0202-763480 (FAX too)
Westbourne
Bournemouth
Dorset BH4 9AE
United Kingdom
(A UK source)
Wilhelmshavener Modellbaubogen (04421) 60934
2940 Wilhelmshaven
Ruestersieler Strasse 133-115
Postfach 3247
Telefon (04421) 60934
(Cardstock model manufacturer)
White Ensign
Gardener's Cottage
Cowarne Court
Lower Eggleton,
Ledbury, Herefordshire HR8 2UF England
(1/700 Dido. The list price is 43.75 pounds. Others in the
works.)
Williams Model Works *NEW*
10022 Garrett Street http://www.wizard.net/~wmwships/wmw1.htm
Vienna, VA 22181
(Contemporary (steel hull) ship fittings 3/16"=1' to 1/285
scale including 1/192 stud link chain)
http://www.wizard.net/~wmwships/wmw1.htm
32nd Parallel 408-481-3170
P.O. Box 804
Pismo Beach, CA 93448
(manufacturer submarines, R/C)
101-C. TOOLS
-----
(Be sure to check out the FAQ for the rec.crafts.jewelery newsgroup,
as well; it's too long to incorporate here.)
Ace R/C 800-322-7121
116 W. 19th Street
P.O. Box 472
Higginsville, MO 64037
(R/C equipment)
Anchor Tools (Bill Schroeter) 908-245-7888
P. O. Box 265
Chathan, N. J. 07928-0265
(Hand tools, jewelers' supplies, Foredom)
Catalog - $4.00 (Refundable; $10 - Europe, $15 - Japan)
Blazer Corporation 212-532-1166
114 E. 32nd St.
New York, NY 10016
(micro torches)
Brookstone 603-924-9541 (ordrs - 24 hr)
127 Vose Farm Road 603-924-9511 (Cus. ser. 9-5 EST)
Peterborough, NH 03458
(Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog.
Brookstone has a number of stores around the country. You can
sometimes find specific items for less elsewhere.)
BW Trading Company 614-344-2772
Box 692
Newark, Ohio 43055
(Primarily a dealer in surplus goods; often has items of
interest to modelers. Catalog $2.00)
Calculated Industries, Inc. 800-854-8075
4840 Hytech Drive 702-885-4949 FAX
Carson City, NV 89706.
(A dimensional calculator for proportional scale modelers. The
ModelCalc has a proportional scaling key with 22 common model
scales (i.e., HO, N, G, 1:24, 1:400, +4 Custom Scales) built-in,
allowing users to simply enter the actual or prototype size (in
any dimensional format), and then find the scaled size with the
press of a button. List price of $59.95 and will be distributed
through leading modeling/hobby supply stores nationwide.)
CaRa Products 605-987-5924
P.O. Box 221
Canton, SD 57013
(R/C battery chargers)
Craftwoods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
Timonium, MD 21093
(Power tools, bits, knives, chisels, wood, paint, glues, vises,
wood burners and airbrushes)
Catalog - Free woodworking catalog
Dedeco International 914-887-4840
Rt. 97
Long Eddy, NY 12760-0244
(Dental abrasive tools -- free catalog)
Dremel
4916 21st Street
Racine, WI 53406
(Manufacturer of compact power hand tools, saws, sanders
-- free catalog)
Eastern Tool & Supply Co. 212-925-1006 (orders)
149 Grand Street 212-226-3749 (office)
New York, NY 10013 212-925-1010 (Fax)
(call for catalog)
Euro Tools 913-338-3131
11449 Randall Drive
Lenexa, KS 66205
(Swiss & German tools, new extra fine files -- free catalog)
Excel Hobby Blade Corp. (Mike Hammam, Pres.) 201-278-4000
481 Getty Avenue
Patterson, NJ 07503
(Scissors, vice, blades, gouges, saw blades, etc. -- free
catalog)
Foredom Electric Co.
Bethel, CT 06801
(Flex shaft & handpieces)
Gesswein
P.O. Box 3998
255 Hancock Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
(Jewelers hand tools, casting equipment)
H & R
18 Canal Street
P.O. Box 122
Bristol, PA 19007-0122
(Science, R/C batteries)
Industrial Abrasives Co. 800-428-2222
642 N. 8th Street
Box 14955
Reading, PA 19612
(Sanding tools)
Jarmac, Inc. 217-789-7290
P.O. Box 2785
Springfield, IL 62708
(small table saw, 4" disk sander)
Jim Davis
8038 Oacjard Ave., N.E.
Elk River, MN 55330
(Scale Nautical Tool Co. product line)
J.F. McCaughin Co. 818-573-5781
2628 River Avenue 800-573-5781
Rosemead, Ca 91770-3395
(These people have a good inventory of tools for jewelry
manufacturing and investment casting. A very nice catalog
for the asking.)
K. H. Lee Jewelry & Craft Tools (Kenneth H. Lee) 800-435-4966
9078 Artesia Blvd. 310-920-3834
Bellflower, CA 90706
(New & used tools and equipment, some of which are useful for
modelers)
Klein Design Inc. 206-226-5937
17910 SE 110th Street 206-226-2756 (FAX)
Renton, WA 98059
(Small scale wood turning lathe, tools & videos -- catalog:
free)
Mascot Precision Tools 201-939-6700
750 Washington Ave
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(Small hand tools) Catalog $2.00
Micro-Mark 800-225-1066
340 Snyder Ave. 908-665-9383 (FAX)
Berkeley Heights, N. J. 07922-1595
(Specializes in tools for minature & model builders; Cat.
excellent)
Catalog - $1.00 (Free with order)
Miracle Point 800-682-4256
P.O.Box 71
Crystal Lake, IL 60039
(Pliers)
NorthWest Short Line 206-932-1087
Box 423 206-935-7106 (FAX)
Seattle, WA 98111
(tools include "chopper", "True Sander", & "Dupli-cutter")
Details - free
PanVise Products (Patric O'Rourke) 702-353-2900
1485 Southern Way 702-353-2929 (FAX)
Sparks, NV 89431
(Vises)
Paul H Gesswein & Co., Inc. 203-366-5400
255 Hancock Ave.
P O Box 3998
Bridgeport, CT 06605-0936
(cutting & grinding bits)
Catalog $5.00
Paasche Airbrush Co. 708-867-9191
744 W. Lawrence Ave.
Harwood Heights, IL 60656-3497
(AIr brushes & paint booths)
PanaVise
1485 Southern Way
Sparks, NV 89431
(vises)
Preac Tool Co., Inc. (Charlie Files) 516-333-1500
512 Main St.
Westbury, N. Y. 11590-Dept. MS
(**EXCELLENT** 4"x6" table saw, small clamps, new thickness
sander) Catalog - SASE
Proedge 201-764-1120
Maple Grange Road
P.O. Box 888
Vernon, NJ 07462
Progress Machine & Tool Corp. 800-227-9775
610 South Broadway Suite 510 213-489-7262
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(cutting & grinding bits)
Royal Products 909-867-9272
P.O. Box 453 909-867-5629 FAX
31354 Firwood Dr.
Running Springs, CA 92382
(Thickness sander - free brochure)
RDA Productions 509-292-8157
P.O. Box 68
Elk, WA 99009-0068
(various parts to convert a Dremel tool into a lathe, saw, etc.)
The Sanding Catalog
P.O. Box 3737
Hickory, NC 28603-3737
(Made to order abrasive sheets)
Sherline Products, Inc (Craige V. Libuse) 800-541-0735
170 Navajo St. 619-744-3674 (outside US)
San Marcos, CA 92069 619-744-1574 (fax)
(Sherline lathes) http://www.sherline.com/sherline
Small Parts Inc. 800-220-4242
P.O. Box 4650 305-557-8222
13980 N.W. 58th Ct.
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-9727
(Small drills - down to .005 inch; "capillary" tubing (hypo
needle stock) in 18-24 in lengths; springs)
Small Parts has a lot of other interesting toys as well, including
very small wire drills ( < #80 ).
Syntax Mfg & Distributing 909-589-9811
249 S. Paseo Tesoro
Walnut, CA 91789
(Micro tourches -- free brochure)
Thayer Chandler 708-816-1611
28835 N. Herky Drive
Lake Bluff, IL 60044
(New Vega 2000 airbrush -- catalog available)
Thurston Manufacturing Co.
45 Borden Street
Providence, RI 02903
(Minature saw blades)
Tools for Model Makers
3 Arlington Street, Drawer S/S
Rochester, NY 14607
(minature clamps)
Wood Carvers' Supply, Inc. 800-284-6229
P. O. Box 7500 (813-698-0123 - Inquiries)
Englewood FL 34295
(Fine knives, chisels, Foredom tools, books, sanders)
Woodworkers Supply
1108 North Glenn Road
Casper, WY 82601
(Carvers tools)
Xuron Corporation
60 Industrial Park Road
Saco, ME 04072
(Pliers, scissors, cutters, photo etch cutters -- free catalog)
Zona Tool Company 800-696-3480
P. O. Box 502 800-299-4208 (FAX)
Bethel, CT 06801
(distributer for Berna Assembler, call to locate nearest
retailer)
(This question is continued in Part 14)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part15
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part15
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 15) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
102. Where can I find information... ?
A. There are a number of research sources available.
Contents of this section:
102-A. BOOK COMPANIES
102-B. MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
102-A. BOOK COMPANIES
--------------
Antheil Booksellers
2177 Isabelle Court
N. Bellmore, NY 11710
Anthony J. Simmonds 011-44-81-853-1727
23 Nelson Road 44-081-858-4422
Greenwich, London SE10 9JB 44-081-312-6632
England
(antiquarian, new and used books on all aspects of naval and
maritime history)
Antiquarian Archive 415-949-1593
379 State Street
Los ALtos, CA 94022
(Used books, search services)
Armchair Sailor Bookstore
Lee's Warf
Newport, RI 02840
(New and used general maritime)
Bill Corkhill 203-445-0883
21 Country Club Road
Grotton, CT 06340
The Bookstore 800-331-BOOK
Mystic Seaport Museum Store
Mystic, CT 06355
(New and used books)
Centaur Forge Ltd. 414-763-9175
117 North Spring Street 414-763-8350 (FAX)
P.O. Box 340
Burlington, WI 53105-0340
(The company sells blacksmiths & horseshoers' supplies, but the
catalog contians an extensive list of books, some of which --
on topics such as casting, metalworking, engraving, etc. -- may
be of interest -- catalog $5.00)
Coastal Forces
136 West Broadway
Bangor, ME 04401
(Books & plans)
Columbia Trading Company 508-362-8966
504 Main Street (Rt. 6A)
West Barnstable, MA 02668
(Large selection of out-of-print books from stock of 10,000
books) Catalog - Free
Connecticut River Books 203-873-8881
Goodspeed Landing
East Hadam, CT 06423
(Used and rare books)
Contact Market Research Corporation 792-256-4913
9030 West Sahara Avenue #408 702-256-7297
Las Vegas, NE 89117
(book, "HMS Victory - How to Build A Masterpiece in 1:96 Scale")
Cornell Maritime Press 410-758-2478
P.O. Box 456
Centreville, MD 21617
(New books on contemporary maritime)
Crawfords Nautical Books 703-534-8521
5520 North 16th Street
Arlington, VA 22205
Cross Hill Books
P.O. Box 798
Brunswick, ME 04011
Hallenbook 518-392-4526
County Route 9 518-392-4557 (Fax)
P.O. Box 357
Chatham, New York 12037
(Books and videos)
J. Tuttle 608-238-SAIL
1806 Laurel Crest
Madison, WI 53705
(Out-of-print and Rare Books about the Sea, Ship & Sailor)
Jean Boudriot Publications 011-44-1892-852445
Ashley Lodge 011-44-1892-853344 FAX
Rotherfield, East Sussex TN6 3QX, England
(New & facsimily reproductions on European sail)
Edward R. Hamilton
Falls Village, CT 06031-5000
(Some used maritime books)
Edward J. Lefkowitz, Inc. 508-997-6839
Box 630 (508-996-6407 Fax)
Fairhaven MA 02719
(Ships & the sea: rare, antiquarian & select reference books)
Linsey Publications Inc. 815-935-5353
P.O. Box 538 Email: mailto:QBC...@prodigy.com
Bradley, IL 60915-0538 http://www.keynet.net/~lindsay
(Specializes in reprints of "unusual technical books of
exceptionally high quality revealing skills and secret
processes almost forgotten." -- free catalog)
Naval Institute Press 800-233-8764
2062 Generals' Highway, Preble Hall
Anapolis, MD 21401-6780
(numerous books, discount to members)
Nimbus Publishing 1-800-646-2879
3731 MacKintosh Street
P.O. Box 9301, Station "A"
Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 5N5
(A number of people have recommended their book on "Bluenose
II, Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners" by L.B. Jenson.
Price: $19.95)
Pier Books (Dave & Sandy Roach) 914-268-5845
P. O. Box 5 mailto:ro...@ldeo.columbia.edu
Piermont, NY 10968
(Excellent selection of used & new ship modeling & nautical
books; knowledgable)
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
(Publishers of ship modeling books)
Brochure - free
Plaza Books 707-996-8474
40 W. Spain
Sonoma CA 95476
(ocasionally has maritime books)
Rocky Mountain Shipyard 970-434-0703
590 Ronlin St. mailto:rlno...@iti2.net
Grand Junction, CO 81504-5570
(books & plans; new books from several publishers, including
Naval Institute Press, Conway, Jean Boudriot, Dover,
International Marine, Phoenix, Pictorial Histories, Mystic
Seaport, and Brown, Son & Ferguson. Stock plans from and/or
by: David MacGregor, Portia Takakjian, Edward Neubauer, Alan
Bates, John Fryant, William Crothers, Computer Lofting, Al
Ross, Edward Wiswesser, Robert McCandliss, Vanguard Model
Marine, plus plans for R/C combat (1:144 scale). )
catalog is $4.00
St. Andrews Books 803-772-4551
Tom & Jill Bettendorf
P. O. Box 210756
Columbus, SC 29221
(used books)
catalog (77 p.) - $3.00
Ten Pound Island Book Co. 508-283-5299
76 Langsford St. mailto:tenp...@world.std.com
Gloucester, MA 01930 http://www.abaa-booknet.com/usa/ten.pound/
(books, marine art, antiques & instruments, logbooks, maps
and charts) -- catalog - free (and now on-line too.)
The Kings Market Bookshop (Robert Wayne) 303-447-0234
mailto:Robert...@kingsmarket.com
(Finder service/bookstore "I have never known him to not come
up with a book, and his prices are quite reasonable. Nautical
books are one of his specialties.")
W. Wiegand & Co.
Box 563
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Out-of-print Maritime Books -- free catalog)
Catalog - free
Wisconsin Maritime Museum Mariner's Gift Shoppe 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for book list)
102-B. MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
------------------------
American Boat Modeler (R.C.)
P.O.Box 427
Mount Morris, IL 61054
The American Neptune
The Peabody Museum of Salam
161 Essex Street, East India Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Academic)
Fine Scale Modeler
Kalmbach Publishing Co.
P.O. Box 1612
Waukesha, WI 53187
(Mainly plastic -- $19.95)
The Flag Bulletin 617-729-9410
The Flag Research Center 617-721-4817 (FAX)
P.O. Box 580
Winchester, MA 01980
(bi-monthly journal on flag research; offer asistance to identify
or locate a particular flag)
Live Steam
P.O.Box 169
Traverse City, MI 49685
(Steam Engines, including full-size and model steam boats).
Marine Modelling
Traplet House, Severn Drive
Upton-on-Severn, Worcestershire WR8 0JL
England
The Mariner's Mirror
Derek G. Law, MA Dip.Lib., FLA
Hon. Secretary, The Society for Nautical Research
Librarian, King's College London
University of London, Strand, London WC2R 2LS
England
(Academic)
Model Ship Builder
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
Subscription - 1 year (6 issues): $23; 2 years: $43
Model Shipwright
Conway Maritime Press Ltd.
101 Fleet Street 33 John Street
London EC4Y 1DE London WC1N 2AT
England
(English Quarterly)
Subscription - available through The Dromedary; 1 year: $36.00
Nautical Collector 703-550-6609
P.O. Box 16734
Alexandria, VA 22302
(Collectables & maritime history)
Nautical Research Journal
19 Pleasant Street
Everett, MA 02149
Subscription - 1 year (4 issues): $30.
Plastic Ship Modeler (Dan Jones)
PO Box 2183
Arvada, CO 80001-2183
(Primarily geared to resin builders, but the articles are of
interest to any warship fans - Quarterly; $15.00 US/$20.00
overseas per year.)
Radio Control Boat Modeler
P.O. Box 443
Mount Morris, IL 61054-9858
Scale Ship Modeler
P. O. Box 16149 818-760-8983
No. Hollywood, CA 91606
(mostly modern & RC)
Subscription - 1 year: $26.50
Sea History
National Maritime Historical Society
P.O. Box 68
Peekskill, NY 10566
(Nautical Heritage - $30.00)
Seaways - Ships in Scale 408-978-5657
Seaways Publishing, Inc. mailto:clay...@seaways.com (publisher)
2271 Constitution Dr. mailto:four.winds%b...@wasatch.com (office)
San Jose, CA 95124 http://www.seaways.com .
Subscription - 1 year: $24.95; 2 years: $46.50
The Egregious Steamboat Journal, Inc. 502-778-6784
Steamboat Masters & Associates, Inc. (Jack E. Custer)
P.O. Box 3046
Louisville, KY 40201-3046
(Bi-monthly)
Subscription - 1 year: $20.00
SubCommittee
Colonel Lester E. Hopper, AUS(Ret)
SubCommittee Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Count
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305
RC Submarines - Subscription: $26.00.
U.S. Boat & Ship Modeler
898 W. 16th Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Warship International
5905 Reinwood Drive
Toledo, OH 43613
Wooden Boat 207-359-4651
P.O. Box 78
Brooklin, ME 04616
(Full size boats)
Le Chasse Maree
Scop Le Chasse-Mar'ee
Abri du Marin
B P 159
F-29171 Douarnenez Cedex
FRANCE
(the French journal on traditional watercraft)
CONTINUED IN PART 16
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part16
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part16
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 16) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
102. Where can I find information... ?
A. There are a number of research sources available.
CONTINUED FROM PART 15
Contents of this section:
102-C. PLANS
102-D. SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
102-E. GENERAL
102-F. INSTITUTIONS
Ship Plans
Records
Photos and Prints
Historical Data
Interlibrary Loan
Individual Ships/Ship Types
Outside of U.S.A.
102-C. PLANS
-----
Americal Merchant Marine Museum
Kings Point, NY 11024
(Photos)
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans, (George "S" Kelley) 508-775-2679
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(101 traditional designs; Schooners, contemporary designs)
price list - $1.00
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
St. Michaels, MD 21662
(Plans of local boats)
Computer Lofting
470 Hillcrest Pl. #5
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
(Computer generated plans)
details - SASE
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans 508-775-2679
George "S" Kelley
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
Dossin Museum
100 Strand on Belle Isle
Detroit, MI 48207.
(This museum has a variety of plans for different type Great
Lakes vessels. They respond promptly to inquiries.)
John Fryant Plans Service
6508 Dorset Drive
Alexandria, Va. 22310-3018
(Model builders plans for riverboats, tugs, bargs and ferries.
Illustrated catalog & price list available listing plans for
thirty five vessels. Price $4.00 U. S.& Canada; $5.00 overseas.)
Floating Drydock mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net
c/o General Delivery http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock
Kresgeville, PA 18333 (Tom Walkowiak) 610-381-2004 FAX
(Plans photos & books, mainly warships of WWII; catalog $4.50)
Eric A. R. Ronnberg, Jr.
P.O. Box 410
Rockport, MA 01966-0410
(Boston Pilot Scooner HESPER of 1884)
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
(Plans for Schooner EVELINE M. GOULART, 1:48, $20.00;
P&S +$3.50)
Great Lakes Historical Society 1-800-893-1485
P.O. Box 435 216-967-1519 (FAX)
480 Main St.
Vermillion, OH 44089-1099
(Plans and photos of great lakes shipping; here is the most
recent list of model plans available from the Great Lakes
Historical Society thru their Museum Store:
TOLEDO, City class Great Lakes Towing Co. tug, 1/4" scale, $12
TOLEDO, Water-line model of above, 1/8" scale, $6.75
Lyman Rowboat of 1920s (lapstrake), 1/2" scale, $12
EDMUND FITZGERALD (1957), 1/16" scale, $15
CHARLES WETMORE, whaleback (1891), 1/8" scale, $15
S.S. KEEWATIN, passenger freighter (1907), 1/8" scale, $15
ARROW, sidewheel steamer (1895), 1/4" scale, $15
CALCITE, self-unloader (1913), $13
JAMES R. LANGDON, sidewheel steamer (1889), $10
A.G. LINDSAY, lumber hooker (1889), $8
CITY OF MACINAC/STATE OF NEW YORK, day passenger, (1883), $14
MASCOTTE, steamer (1885), $8
BENJAMIN NOBLE, steamer (1909), $13
ST. IGNACE, car ferry (1888), $16
NIAGARA, (plan from first reconstruction), $10
Trapnet Fishing Boat, 40 ft., $10
HURON, lightship (24-1/8" long), $20 )
Harold M. Hahn
1212 Gordon Rd.
Lyndhurst, Ohio 44124
(Plans of a number of Colonial-period ships, drawn by Hahn for
modelers -- Send (business size) SASE for price lists.)
Hart Nautical Collections 617-253-5942
The MIT Museum
265 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02139
(General archival plans)
Jecobin *NEW*
31 Romans Way
Pyrford
Woking
Surrey GU22 8TR
England
(Some cruise ship plans.)
Mariners Museum
Newport News, VA. 23606
(Photos, a few plans)
The Mariners' Museum Research Library 804-596-2222
100 Museum Drive 804-591-7310 FAX
Newport News, Virginia 23606-3759 mailto:tmm...@infi.net
http://www.mariner.org/mariner
(There is a $10.00 (US dollars) charge for all Library research
requests. There is a minimum Chris-Craft research fee of $15.00
(US dollars). )
Maryland Silver Company 410-647-9634
P.O. Box 6220
Anapolis, MD 21401
188 p. Catalog - $9.00; Product & Price list - $4.50;
Civil War Maps Catalog - $2.50
Mosquito Boat Hobbies 619-949-9814
Bob Sattler
7173 Locust Ave
Hesperia, CA 92345
(PT Boats)
Mystic Seaport
Mystic, CT 06355
(Plans, photos)
New Jersey Historical Society
230 Broadway
Newark, NJ 07104
(Collection of plans for oyster boats of S. New Jersey)
Peabody Museum
East Indoa Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Photos)
Philadelphia Maritime Muesum
321 Chestnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(Photos)
Steamship Historical Socciety Collection
University of Baltimore Library
1420 Maryland Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201
(Photos)
Thousand Islands Shipyard Museum
350 Mary St.
Clayton, NY 13624
(Plans for St. Lawrence Skiffs)
The Plan Shop (02) 81 2820
64 Victoria Rd, -or- 008 232 705
Drummoyne, (02) 81 3565 (FAX)
Sydney, NSW 2047
AUSTRALIA
(They are actually an arcitectual establishment (houses & the
like), but they order ship plans in from the U.K. (delivery to
anywhere in Australia). The owner aparently has a model ship
interest. )
P. Young
P.O. Box 1228
Lebec, CA 93243
(WWII Subs)
Repla-tech International
P. O. Box 461000, Cole Branch
Los Angeles, CA 90046-4146
(Plans - mostly modern navy - ask for Scale Ship catalog)
Catalog - $3.00
Taubman Plans Service International 201-435-5205
11 College Dr., Box 4G 201-985-0438 FAX
Jersey City, N. J. 07305
Very complete plan service, books, research info., MAP plans
- Catalog - $6.50 + $3.50 1st class or $2.00 3rd class shipping;
also has Wiswesser catalog of Warships, Liners, and Merchant
marine for an additional $1.00. Inquiries - send SASE.
Vanguard Model Marine
P.O. Box 708, Station B
Ottawa, Ontario K1P
Canada
Western River Workboats 606-836-1431
1010 Turley Avenue
Flatwoods, KY 41139
(Plans and videos for Inland River Pushboats and Barges
-- Catalog $4.00)
Wisconsin Maritime Museum 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for plan list of 19th & 20th century Great Lakes vessels;
plans are typically $7.00 per sheet)
102-D. SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
-----------------------
*****Liners
Liner Graphics
P.O.Box 29083
Portland, OR 97229-9083
*****Steamboats
Rock Hill Steamboats
Box 402
Louisville, KY 402?
Ralph R. Dupai
Univ of Wisconsin
LaCross Area Res.
Center Murphy-Murphy Library
LaCross, WI 54601
Public Library of Cincinnati & Hamilton County
800 Vine St.
Cincinnati, OH 45202-2791
*****Tugboats
Tugboat Photo & Research
2861 Bardy Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95494
*****Naval
U. S. Naval Institute
Library & Photographic Service
Annapolis, MD 21401
National Archives & Record Service (GSA)
Still Pictures Branch
Washington, DC 20408
L. C. Van Ginderen
Korte Dykstraat 3
2008 Antwerpen, Belgium
INRO
Warships International
1729 Lois Court
Toledo, OH 43613
Real War Photos
P.O.Box 728-S
Hammond, IN 46320
SeaPhoto mailto:SeaP...@aol.com
1145 Oakwood dr.
Millbrae, CA 94030
(photographs taken on board US Navy and other vessels for the
purpose of modeler's documentation. A catalog is $ 5 US /
$ 8 overseas.)
102-E. GENERAL
-------
University Microfilms: The UMI InfoStore can do document delivery
for many different items, both in and outside of their collection.
A sample of the types of materials they cover: books, journal articles,
newspaper articles. conference proceedings, government reports,
dissertations, technical reports, NTIS reports, translations, and
manuscripts. Their motto appears to be, "If it exists, we'll find it!".
From inside their collection (i.e. if they have it), you can get 24
hour standard service or 4 hour rush service (by fax). UMI maintains a
copyright clearance center, so all fees are paid.
From outside their collection, the standard service will locate the
document and send it be first class mail within 2-5 working days from
the day the order is received. Next Day service is possible if the
order is received by 1:30 pm EST, and the item will be shipped by Fed
Ex or fax. If a delay happens, the InfoStore will alert you to the
problem. Same Day service is also available if the request is received
by 1:30pm EST.
The InfoStore's prices are as follows:
UMI Collection
Base Rate: $9.00 (first 10 pages, $.25 per page beyond 10)
Copyright Fee: $2.00 (standard charge, some may be higher)
Turnaround time: next-day
Delivery: first-class mail - free; fax - $5.00;
overnight - $11.00; Ariel - free (Fax - $5 in US and Canada;
elsewhere $15.00. $1.00 per page after first ten pages.
Extended Collection
Base Rate: $12.00
Copyright fee: varies
Turnaround time: 2-5 days
Delivery: first-class mail - free; fax - $5.00;
overnight - $11.00; Ariel - free
To find out more, visit their web page at:
http://www.umi.com/infostore , or call them at 1-800-248-0360.
Their e-mail address for orders is: mailto:ord...@infostore.com .
(Anita Cohen-Williams)
102-F. INSTITUTIONS
------------
Caution: in most cases, these are staffed by archivists and librarians,
sometimes with little actual knowledge of the collection.
Be as explicit as possible when making requests -- "tell me
about Clipper Ships" will get you nowhere, whereas "do you
have any information on the Clipper ship 'Rainbow'" is MUCH
more likely to get some sort of response.
Also, these institutions have been hard-hit by the
government "down-sizing", expect LONG delays in responses!
(The majority of the following sources are taken from "Naval History
Resources in Washington DC", by Dana M. Wegner, Western Ship Model
Conference, 23 March, 1996.)
Ships Plans
Most existing USN ships' plans 1776-1949, gun plans, maps, and
patent drawings:
o U.S. National Archives
Cartographic Archives (NNSC)
Washington, DC 20408
(301) 713-7040
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
The only source for ships' plans within the Navy for ships built
after 1949:
o Director of Congressional and Public Affairs
Commander (NSES-09B21)
Naval Sea Systems Command
Washington, DC 20362 (703) 602-1575
(703) 602-4982 FAX
Plans of some USN ships 1776 to about 1917, full sized copies
of Howard I. Chappelle plans (catalog available):
o Division of Armed Forces History
Museum of American History
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560 (202) 357-2250
o Smithsonian Institution
Division of Transportation, Room 5010, -or- Division of Naval History,
National Museum of American History room 4017
Washington, DC 20560
...For plans specifically, contact:
o Ship Plans, Department of Transportation,
NMAH - 5010/MRC 628
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, D.C. 20560
o Ship Plans
Maritime Collections
NMAH-5010/Mrc 628
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(ask for The Maritime Administration Collection of Ship Plans
(1939-1970) I think it is $5.00)
Plans for USN small boats:
o Small Boats published periodically by BuShips and NAVSEA
since about 1910.
o The book, Standard Boat Designs for the U.S. Navy, 1900
Reprint by Elliot Press, 1995/96
Plans for USN small boats and coastal craft:
o Naval Sea Combat Systems
Engineering Stations
835 Philpotts Road
Norfolk, VA 23513
(804) 444-9160
Plans of regional and commercial ships including Liberty,
Victory, and MarAd vessels (catalogs available):
o Division of Water Transportation
Museum of American History
Smithsonial Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2025 (202) 357-4356 FAX
Plans for commercial ships:
o National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(415) 556-3002 FAX (415) 556-1624
mailto:SAFR_Marit...@nps.gov
(plans: Steam Schooner WAPAMA 1:96 $20; Scow Schooner ALMA
1:48 $16; monterey fishing boat WETTON 1:12 $16; + $4
shipping (US), $8 overseas)
o Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
Records
For pension records, steamship inspection reports, census
records, historic motion pictures, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5400
{mailing address; some documents may be located at the
National Archive IIor regional archives nationwide}
Military service records before 1917, agency correspondence,
official reports, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Military Records Branch
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5385
Military service records after 1917. You must be related to the
person. Write only:
o National Personnel Records Center
9700 Page Avenue
St Louis, MO 63132
Photos and Prints
Ships, people, and places, 1776 to about 1949:
o Naval Historical Center
Photographic Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-2765 (202( 433-3593 FAX
o U..S. Naval Academy Museum
118 Maryland Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21402
(410) 293-2108 (410) 269-7940 FAX
{Not a Federal agency}
USN ship, 1945 to present:
o Naval Imaging Command
Washington, DC 20362
Ships, yards, etc.
o U.S. National Archives
Still Picture Branch (NNSP)
Washington, DC 20408
(310) 713-6800
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
Ships:
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Historical Data
Histories of every U.S. Naval ship until publication date:
o Dictionary of American Naval FIghting Ships, 9 volumes,
published by the Government Printing Office 1959-1991
Ships histories after Dictionary (above):
o Naval Historical Center
Ship's History Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374
(202) 433-3643 (202) 433-3593 FAX
U.S. Navy deck logs:
o Naval Historical Center
Deck Log Section
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-0824
All unclasified USN log books (index available):
o National Archives
Military Records Branch (NNR1)
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 523-5385
Navy classified operational records post WWII:
o Naval Historical Center
Operational Archives Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-3224
Navy cruise books:
o Naval Historical Center
Navy Department Library
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-4133
Interlibrary Loan
o The Navy Library
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Individual ships/ship types
o National Liberty Ship Memorial
(supports the liberty ship SS Jeremial O'Brian)
415-441-3101
Other Sources
o Maritime Archaeology and Historical Society
PO Box 44382
L'enfant Plaza
Washington, DC. 20026
o Lake Champlain Maritime Museum
RR#3 Box 4092
Vergennes, VT 05491
(802)475-2022
o Society for Historical Archaeology
P.O. Box 30446
Tuscon, AZ 85751-0446
o Star of India maritime museum in San Diego
(mailto:in...@sdmaritime.com)
o New Bedford Whaling Museum 508-997-0046
Outside of U.S.A.
Belgium
o Nationa Scheepvaartmuseum
Steenplein 1
Antwerp, Belgium
Canada
o Marine Muesum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
55 Ontario Street
Kingston, Ontario K7L 2Y2
Canada
(Plans and photos)
o B.C. Museum Association
514 Goverment St.
Victoria, B.C.
V8V 4X4
Canada
o Public Archives of Canada
Map COllection
295 Wellington
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N3
Canada
(Plans and photos)
Denmark
o Rigsarkivet
Rigsdagsgarden 9
1218 Kobenhaven K (the "o" is actually "o" + "/")
Denmark
England
o National Maritime Muesum
London SE10 9NF
England
(Plans and photos)
o Public Record Office 0181-876-3444
Kew 0181-878-8905 (FAX)
Richmond
Surrey TW9 4DU
England
o Liverpool Maritime Museum
Albert Dock
LIVERPOOL, L3 4BB., UK.,
telephone 051 207 0001.
o Science Museum
Exhibition Road
South Kensington
London SW7 2DD
o The Boat Museum
Dockyard Road, Ellesmere Port
South Wirral, Cheshire L65 4EF
Phone: (0151) 355 5017
Fax: (0151) 3554079
Open: Daily in the summer; closed Thurs & Fridays in
winter
Displays: A big dock complex at ends of the Shropshire
Union & Manchester Ship Canals was restored
from dereliction. It is now a museum with a
collection of over 50 inland waterway boats,
with little coracles, barges, narrow-boats,
ice-boats, tugs & dredgers.
o National Waterways Museum
Llantony Warehouse
The Docks, Gloucester GL1 2EH
Phone: (01452) 318054
Fax: (01452) 318075
Open: daily
Displays: Models, engines & machinery, hands-on exhibits,
illustrate 200 year history of inland waterways.
Historic craft at quayside. Boat trips, horse-
wagon tours, crafts displays, cargo handling &
storage. AV shows. Shop. British Waterways
Archives.
o The Glasgow City Archivist
Strathclyde Regional Archives
City Chambers
Glasgow G2 1DL
Scotland
o Museum of Transport
25 Albert Dr.
Glasgow G41 2PE
Scotland
France:
o Musee de la Marine (33)-1-45533170
Palais de Chaillot (33)-1-47274967 FAX
17 place du Trocadero (33)-1-47550383 (documentation service)
F75016 Paris France
(The national maratime museum of France; plans available,
including a number of plans designed for ship modelers)
This (French Navy) organisation of "Musee de la Marine" is
in charge of 3 or 4 smaller museums in France like in Brest
(Britanny):
o Musee de la Marine (33)-98221239
Chateau Prefecture Maritime (33)-98433054 FAX
29200 BREST
Beside of this a French "Mystic Sea Port" (much smaller) is
in Britanny at:
o Port Musee (33)-98926520
place Enfer (33)-98920541 FAX
29100 DOUARNENEZ
Interesting stuff can be found at Marseille (Cote d'Azur)
which was a Greek emporium founded some 2500 years ago.
The best is to contact:
o Mairie (Direction des Musees) (33)-91562838
2 rue Charite (33)-91906301 FAX
13002 MARSEILLE
Germany
o Bundesarchiv
Wiesentalstrasse
7800 Freiburg
Germany
Italy:
o Ministero della Marina Militare
Ufficio Propaganda e Informazione
Lungotevere Arnaldo Da Brescia
00100 Roma (Italy)
o Marina Militre
Museo Storical Navale
30122 Castella
2148 Venezia, Italy
Holland
o Rijksmuseum Nederlandse Schepvaart Museum
Department of Ship Draughts
Kattenburgerpleing 1
1018 KK Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Norway
o Norsk Sjofartsmuseum
Bygdoynesvn 37
Oslow 2, Norway
(plans and photos)
Spain:
o Museo Naval
C/Montalban #2
28071 Madrid Spain. FAX 5231850. Telephone 3795299
o Disputacion Provincial de Barcelona
Museo Maritimo
Barcelona
Spain
Sweden:
o Staten Sjohistorisk Museum
Djurgardsbruunsvagen 24
11527 Stockholm
Sweden
(plans and photos)
o Military Records Office
Krigsarkivet
Box 80038 S-104 50
Stockholm
Sweden
(Naval plans)
o Israel:
National Maritime Museum
198 Allenby Road
Haifa 35472
Israel
(good source on ancient Greek, Roman, Phoenician,
Hellenistic galleys or warships)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part17
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part17
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 17) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
103. What are some good books... ?
A: What you will consider a "good book" depends GREATLY upon the
period and style of modeling you do -- a book on plastic
submarines will prove of little use if you are researching
ships of ancient Egypt.
Instead, the following list(s) are by general topic. Prices,
where shown, indicate the book is currently in print. these
are the LIST price; such books are frequently available for
much less in "remainder" book sales or as used books.
RECOMMENDED BOOKS
-----------------
"The Neophite Shipmodeller's Jackstay", George F. Campbell; Softbound,
62 pages
Probably the best basic introduction to wooden shipmodeling.
"Ship Modeler's Shop Notes", Nautical Research Guild; Softbound, 216
pages, ($19.95)
Practical book for all ship modelers; a compilation of shipmodeling
articles from the Nautical Research Journal.
SHIPMODELING TECHNIQUES
-----------------------
"The Ship Model Builder's Assistant", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 288
pages ($6.95)
Detailed descriptions and drawings of masts, rigging, and major
fittings of American clippers and packets.
"the Built-Up Ship Model", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 256 pages
($6.95)
A detailed guide to building a ship model, in this case the brig
Lexington (American, 1775).
"Plank-onFrame Models", Harold A Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson,
1960.
Two volume set detailing the building and rigging of the Brigintine
Leon.
"Modeling the the Brig Irene", E. W. Petrejus, N. V. Uitgeversmasschappi
"Ed Esch", Holland, 1970.
"Boat Modeling the Easy Way A Scratch Builder's Guide", Harold H.
"Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 195 pages, illustrations, photographs,
8 1/2 x 11 ($19.95) ISBN 0-87742-320-2
"Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson - A Step-by-step Guide to Building
Models of Small Craft", Harold H. "Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 182
pages, 280 illustrations, 8 1/2 x 11, ($19.95)
"Ship Modeling from Scratch - Tips and Techniques for Building Without
Kits", Edwin B. Leaf, Paperback, 184 pages, drawings, 7 3/8 x 9 1/8
($17.95) ISBN 0-87742-389-X
"Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models", Ron McCarthy; 8vo, 192 pages,
illustrated, Conway Maritime Press, London, 1994 ($34.95)
"Shipbuilding in Miniature", by Donald McNarry, New York, Arco 1983
ISBN 0-668-05800-5
"Ships in Miniature", by Lloyd McCaffery, Cedarsburg, Phoenix
Publications 1988 ISBN 0-9615021-3-4
"Building Warship Models", P. C. Coker, 313 pages, illustrated, R. L.
Briant Company, Columbia, South Carolina, 1974; ISBN 0-914432-01-X.
PERIOD SHIP RESEARCH
--------------------
"Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750", John Franklin; Hardbound, 192
pages, 150 photos, 16 color plates($36.95)
Survey of dockyard models, their construction and function.
"Shipcarver's Handbook", Jay S. Hanna, Hardcover, 108 pages, 7 1/8 x
10 (17.95) ISBN 0-937822-14-0
Design and lettering, set-up and carving techniques, woods, tool
sharpening, finishing and gold leafing (full-size modern practice).
"Ashley Book of Knots", Clifford W. Ashley, Hardcover, 610 pages, 8 3/4
x 11 1/4 ($50.00) ISBN 0-385-04025-4
Standard reference work on knots, splicing, etc.
RIGGING ETC.
"The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritesail Topmast, 1600-1720",
R. C. Anderson, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815", Brian Lavery,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860", James Lees,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War 1650-1850",
Peter Goodwin, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier", Harold A.
Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson, Scotland, 1946.
"The Americal FIshing Scooners 1825-1935", Howard I. Chapelle, W. W.
Norton & Company, New York, 1973.
Covers all aspects of the "Glochester" fishing schooners and their
fittings.
SPECIFIC SHIP AND SHIP-TYPE RESEARCH
------------------------------------
"Old Ironsides - The Rise, Decline and Resurrection of the USS
Constitution", Thomas C. Gillmer, Hardcover, 239 pages, photographs,
7 1/2 x 9 1/2 ($24.95) ISBN 0-87742-346-6
"Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes
von 1380", Baykowski, U., RKE-Verlag, Kiel 1991
"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships", C. Nepean Longridge, Model & Allied
Publications, England, 1955.
Primarily concerned with building a model of H.M.S. Victory, but
lots of useful information on Napoleonic War practices.
"Conway's History of the Ship, The Age of the Galley", originally
published by Brassey's (UK) ltd. 1995. Published in the US/Canada by
the Naval Institue Press, 1995. ISBN 1-55750-024-X.
There are some good articles, with enough reconstructed detail to
use as a basis for modeling bronze age-sixteenth century galleys
(mostly warships).
The Anatomy of the Ship series of books. Each volume covers a specific
vessel (list $32.95 each)
The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid
The Aircraft Carrier Victorious
The Type VII U-Boat
The Type XXI U-Boat
The Destroyer Campbeltown
The Cruiser Belfast
The Destroyer Escort England
The 74-Gun Ship Bellona
The Submarine Alliance
The Battleship Warspite
The Battleship Yamato
The Destroyer The Sullivans
The Cruiser Bartolomeo Colleoni
The Frigate Diana
The 20-Gun ship Blandford
The Susan Constant, 1607
The Armed Transport Bounty
The Royal Yacht Caroline
The Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742
Good reference for old surviving ships:
"International Register of Historic Ships", Norman J. Brouwer, Naval
Institute Press (Orig. Anthony Nelson, Ltd., 1985); ISBN 0-87021-306-7
This is a fascinating read for those of us who like this stuff.
All the vessels we've talked about here are described, as well as
semiintact clipper ships in Argentina and an 1868 monitor, guns in
place, used as a graffiti-covered breakwater in Melbourne.
(Phil Gustafson)
The following reviews are from John Berg:
The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1988. Hardback, 119 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-058-0.
Provides superb graphics. The Blandford, while not quite the
size of the HMS Surprise, a 5th rate like the Surprise and
gives the detailed drawings of the ship's hull, deck
arrangement, and rigging. Invaluable to modelers, too.
The Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1989. Hardback, 125 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Many drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-178-1.
Useful to both the scratch-build modeler and the reader of
Forester who wants to know more about the bomb vessel.
Provides insights about Jack Aubrey's first command, the Sophie,
since the Granado is also a 14 gun, brig-sloop with a
quarterdeck and stern windows. [See also page 6, col. c.]
Captain Cook's Endeavour by Karl Heinz Marquardt, Anatomy of the Ship
Series, 138 pages, hardback, 224 illustrations, $36.95.
The Endeavour, made eternally famous by Captain Cook's first
voyage on her in 1768-71, was chosen by Cook because of her
strong construction. The author describes her build and rig
based on information found in the Endeavour's journals, a mine
of previously unused, primary-source information.
The Armed Transport Bounty by John Mckay, USNI, 1989, 120 pages, many
photos, drawings, plans, and detailed sketches, $36.95.
A member of the Anatomy of the Ship series with the usual
superb graphics. Thanks to a reproduction built in Australia,
the book has many photos as well. Patrick O'Brian uses the
Anatomy of the Ship books and models to visualize action
about ships.
The Schooner Bertha L. Downs by Basil Greenhill and Sam Manning, 1995,
hardback, 128 pages, 250 Illustrations. 9.5 by 10.25 inches. The
Anatomy of the Ship Series, Naval Institute Press, ISBN 1-55750-790-2,
$36.95.
The North American schooner Bertha L. Downs was one of the many
large four-, five-, and six-masted schooners built on the banks
of the Kennebeck River at the end of the nineteenth and the
beginning of the twentieth centuries. These huge wooden
vessels were almost universally employed in the coastal trade,
chiefly taking coal from Virginia to New England. Contains
superb drawings and much new material about the life of the
vessel.
Bertha L. Downs was launched in 1908 and after ten years in
the lumber and coal trade was sold to Danish owners, renamed
the Atlas, and like a number of her contemporaries made a
profitable living through the 1920s and 30s. She was finally
broken up in 1950 in Germany having spent forty-two years
working under five flags.
Close cousins to the Anatomy of a Ship series is the Conway Ship Types
series. Excellent large graphics and superb research
The Bomb Vessel, Shore Bombardment Ships of the Age of Sail by Chris
Ware, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 100 illustrations, 10.75 by 10.75
inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
In the Horatio Hornblower stories, the bomb vessel represented
a specialization of the warship into a floating siege engine
carrying huge shell-firing mortars for the purpose of
bombarding stationary targets.
The Heavy Frigate, Eighteen-pounder Frigates: Volume 1, 1778- 1800 by
Robert Gardiner, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 80 illustrations, 10.75 by
10.75 inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
The first of two volumes specifically devoted to the large
single-decked cruising ships armed with 18-pounder guns. First
introduce during the American Revolution, the frigates grew
rapidly in size, number, importance and becoming the typical
frigate of the Nelson era that we read about Patrick O'Brian's
Aubrey Maturin series.
[Not in the format of the Anatomy series but a superb reference on the
Victory and written specifically for the modeler of HMS Victory: large
foldout drawings.]
ANATOMY OF NELSON'S SHIPS by C. Nepean Longridge, 1956, hardback, 283
pages, 7.5 by 9.75 inches. Naval Institute Press, ISBN 0-87021-077-7,
$39.95.
A truly splendid reference. By creating this book for the
serious model builder of the HMS Victory, Longridge packed an
immense amount of detail about Nelsonian ships in general and
the Victory in particular. A Patrick O'Brian fan will "see"
more clearly the action described after reviewing the hundreds
of illustrations, the scores of clear photographs, and the
detailed plans, many which foldout to the size of 4 and 6 pages
in area, in this book. What is a truck, why catharpings,
where's the kevel, how the channels are supported, what's the
location of the spirketting, and the purpose of the limber
passage.
One photograph shows the wardroom as a bright, attractive room
with officer cabins on either side. Another photograph of the
ship's entry port reminded me of the entry way into aircraft
carriers which have gangways leading into the side rather than
to the weather deck. It made clearer the image of the many at
anchor receptions described by O'Brian and Forester. One
incongruous photograph shows WWII damage suffered by the
Victory from a German aircraft bomb. For the modeler,
everything is included in this one book, hull, standing
rigging, running rigging, modeling tips, and construction of
special tools and jigs. The immense index contains over 1200
entries.
The following is from Clayton A. Feldman, MD:
A Personal Research Library:
============================
Anglo-American Sailing Vessels of the Eighteenth Century (With
Commentary)
The problem confronting beginning and intermediate ship modelers is
quite straight forward: For both, the major pitfall is error
compounding error. Increasing awareness of this negative process tends
to be followed by frustration, wheel-spinning attempts at ongoing
correction and finally exasperation and dropping-out. The problem often
results from the limited availability of readily accessible guidance.
This in turn leads to poor choice of subjects for modeling and rather
random, undirected library building. Without at least a purpose-built
library (and better yet, some form of mentoring in addition), failure
to understand the limits of one's personal knowledge rapidly puts the
modeler into the unfortunate state described above, precluding accurate
and effective work. What then can be done to prevent such talent-wasting
scenarios from developing?
If one could control the entry point into ship modeling for the
beginner, the job would be relatively easy. One would select a simple,
quality kit -- a sloop or schooner from a quality manufacturer and one
book, probably George Campbell's "A Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay", as
the starting package.
This would permit the beginner to get the look and feel of the hobby
with a bit of guidance and see if it appealed to him. If it did, he
would then be encouraged to purchase a bit more advanced kit, together
with a small library consisting of (in this author's opinion) one book
and two articles. The book is the Merritt Edson- edited "Ship Modeler's
Shop Notes"; in it are excellent chapters on research and ship
selection for modeling as well as innumerable articles on construction,
tools and processes.
The two recommended articles are Charles O. McDonald's "Books as a
Key to Modeling Success" (Nautical Research Journal, Vol.31, No.1, pp
17-36) and Peter Sorlien's article "Before the Chips Fly, A Few
Thoughts to Guide the New Ship Modeler" (Scale Woodcraft, No.6, 1986,
pp 23-29). The first article is a master book collector's personal
guide to library building for ship modeling and nautical research. It
philosophically suggests that the library builder is well-served by
sticking to one general era and not many different types of vessels and
by rather ruthlessly limiting his library to that era and type. The
second article is a general introduction and guide to the selection of
kits, the understanding of the basic research process and the general
philosophy of proper ship modeling.
This second ship modeling project and its associated library expansion
would start the process of converting the hobbyist into a sort of
scholar craftsman. From here on, or perhaps after a couple of more kit
models, it would be all library building and scratch modeling or
serious kit bashing, with the personal library being the primary source
for the basic research.
It should be noted that the library suggestions above and those to
follow form a basic library only for mid-late eighteenth century small
and medium-sized Anglo-American vessels, the author's personal area of
interest. Other times and places require different libraries and a bit
of research before beginning book purchases. One must also realize that
much of the information for these smaller vessels is interpreted and
derived from the primary source material for larger vessels, thereby
expanding the library somewhat beyond that which seems 'ruthlessly'
related to the small vessels themselves. In any event, here we go:
First: The Ruthless TWO BOOK Library:
1. Chapelle, Howard I., The Search for Speed Under Sail,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1983.
2. Petrejus, E.W., Building the Brig-of-War Irene. "De Esch",
Holland, 1970.
Outrageous, you say? Not at all. At least half of all the interesting
smaller American vessels of the era are found well-drawn and described
in this particular Chapelle work. They are interesting because they
were fast and therefore were used in interesting applications, mostly
as privateers and smugglers. Although Chapelle's text is almost totally
undocumented, for which he has come under revisionist historian attack
recently, he is extremely detailed, generally authoritative, a
marvelous draftsman and a most adequate source of information gathering-
type basic research. Serious research, however, can never end with
Chapelle.
The Petrejus book is practically a single volume encyclopedia. It
contains historical research, magnificent engravings and prints,
contemporary (always remember, in academic historical parlance,
contemporary means at the time of the historical period under study,
not modern times (eg, then, not now) construction techniques, rigging
and fitting data, spar tables and very detailed modeling techniques all
in one. Applied specifically to the modeling of a Dutch revision of an
early nineteenth century English brig, it applies quite generally to
our era and type and is a very good source for further library research.
And Then: The Compleat (almost) Two Foot Library:
A fairly complete plans source, historical database, and modern and
contemporary practices reference library can be had by the addition of
another fifteen books to those previously described. Carefully placed
notes about the house prior to birthdays and holidays can greatly
assist in the speed of acquisition. The books are:
1. Steel, David, Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging
(1794), Sweetman Reprint, Largo, Fla.,1983.
2. Lever, D'arcy, The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor. (1819),
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1963.
3. Steel, David, The Elements and Practice of Naval
Architecture, 1805. Sim Comfort Reprint, London, 1977.
4. Chapman, F.H., Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, 1768,
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1967.
5. Gill, Claude S. (editor), The Old Wooden Walls: Their
Construction, Equipment, etc. Being an abridged edition of
FALCONER'S Celebrated Marine Dictionary. W&G Foyle, Ltd.,
London, 1930.
6. Millar, John F., Early American Ships. Thirteen Colonies=20
Press, Williamsburg, Va., 1986.
7. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of the American Sailing=20
Navy, W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1949.
8. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of American Sailing Ships,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1935.
9. MacGregor, David R., Fast Sailing Ships, Naval Institute=20
Press, Annapolis, 1988.
10. MacGregor, David R., Merchant Sailing Ships, 1775-1815,=20
Argus Books, Ltd., Watford, Herts, England, 1980.
11. Lees, James, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of=20
War, 1625-1860, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1984.
12. Goodwin, Peter, The English Man of War, 1650-1850, Naval=20
Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
13. Lavery, Brian, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of=20
War, 1600-1815, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
14. Harland, John and Meyers, Mark, Seamanship in the Age of=20
Sail, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1985.
15. Howard, Dr.Frank, Sailing Ships of War, 1400-1860, Mayflower
Books, New York, 1979.
Most of these books are still in print or in re-print editions. The
Gill Falconer, or one of the other Falconer reprints, will have to be
sought out in a nautical used book store. Lacking rich and generous
relatives, one may have to find a library for accessing Steel's Naval
Architecture.
With these volumes added to our historical research and plans sources,
we complete the basic documentation of American naval and private
vessels. The two additional books from Chapelle contain extensive
historical and naval architectural data and scores of the best drafts
of American vessels ever drawn. The Chapman book is the single most
valuable collection of contemporary plans, unfortunately few of which
could be considered American. They are, however, essentially generic
types, divided by nautical design and use, by (European) nation of
origin and by size. Chapman also has very nice sail plan drawings.
A very enjoyable American vessels scrapbook, the Millar book has
over two hundred copied and/or reconstructed drawings of colonial and
Revolutionary era American vessels available for perusal, together with
brief historical summaries of the lives of the vessels. It is often a
good place to begin one's search for a choice of modeling projects. The
two MacGregor contributions are the scholarly delineation of the
English side of our era's smaller vessels as the Chapelle works are for
the American side. To these books must be added the basic primary
contemporary sources on rigging and spar-making (Steel and Lever), the
general mini-encyclopedia of eighteenth century naval architecture
(Falconer), and the not-to-be-done-without (but very expensive) Steel's
Naval Architecture, the only primary source available for actual
dimensions and scantlings (the size of the smaller timbers) for the
smaller vessels. This latter listing is actually a pair of books, the
reference book itself and a magnificent over-size folio of large scale
engravings of interesting ships of the era.
The modern standard compendium of masting and rigging is Lee's book,
that for construction is Goodwin's and for fittings, Lavery. The
Harland-Meyers book provides a great many otherwise missing details by
both describing and sketching a great many processes showing how the
ship and its equipment were actually used. Frank Howard provides a
general overview of the era in a very good book ("Sailing Ships of
War"), which misses being a great book only by lacking an index.
New books for the research library are appearing at a rapid rate, and
the would-be library builder must often decide within a fairly short
span of time whether or not to buy, as single edition production runs
are common. In the past few years alone, we have seen Brian Lavery's
two books on the ships of the line, a whole slew of Conway Publishing
volumes in the Anatomy of the Ship series, the magnificent Jean
Boudriot series on a wide variety of French vessels of this era,
Franklin's book on Navy Board models, and a modest number of reprints
of eighteenth and early nineteenth century reference books -- Steel,
Falconer, Sutherland, Fincham and others, if you want names to look
for. Most of these books are available from the book shops andj mail
order hobby suppliers who advertise in "Seaways' Ships in Scale".
Although these suggestions are mainly for a reference library, one
would be remiss in not mentioning at least a few books that deal
largely with model construction techniques. Of course much valuable
construction information is available in the Edson and Petrejus volumes
mentioned above. "Ship Modeler's Shop Notes" is useful for models of
all types, with information on built-up lift models as well as plank-on-
frame. It also is crammed with time-proven techniques for block and
spar making, casting metal fittings, making rope, painting, coppering
and just about everything else the modeler needs to know. Modeling the
Brig of War Irene is similarly useful and broad-based. The hull
technique described is the lift method of solid hull building, but the
fitting, finishing, spar making, etc. techniques are universal in
application and the details are especially useful for smaller-than-ship-
of-the-line vessels.
For plank-on-frame modelers there are two additional recommendations,
the old favorite "The Built-Up Ship Model" by Charles Davis and the
very well received fairly recent work of Harold Hahn, The Colonial
Schooner. The former is fifty years old, written in a charming style,
and full of very useful construction and research data hints the size
of gunports, the height of sills, the weight of anchors, etc. It is
also full of anachronisms and is itself based on an error of
identification, Davis having substituted an English brig of the turn of
the century for the American Revolutionary War converted merchant brig
"Lexington". The hull construction techniques are universal and very
easy to understand and the drawings are wonderful.
Hahn's work has turned his slightly simplified style of P-O-F building,
admittedly a model maker's convention rather than an exact reproduction
of contemporary practice, into the middle-of-the-road standard. Widely
used by modeler's, this technique, using several jigs for building the
frames and a unique fixture for holding the frames upside down in place
during construction, provides for excellent continuity of form and
alignment of frames as the hull is built.
I picked up a new paperback (magazine size) book last week called:
"The Painters Guide to World War Two Naval Camouflage",
by Patrick Hreachmack. It is published by Clash of Arms Publishers, so
as you might guess it is for 1/2400, 1/1200, up to 1/700 ships. While
not a substitute for the Floating Drydock books, it covers, the US,
British and Commonwealth, German, Italian, Japanese, Dutch, Polish,
and Russian Navies. It gives a description of the colors with matches
to Floquil, Humbrol,and MM paint lines. Notes on deck colors, aircraft
colors, and other tidbits are covered. As an example, Japanese ships
colors depended on the shipyard where they were built or repaired.
There are of course a lot of side views of camouflage schemes. On the
down side, since it is written for war gamers it covers lots of schemes
for ships not produced in plastic (3 pages of Tribal class destryers)
and omits popular plastic ships (Rodney, P of W,....). It also notes
FAA a/c as gray on top, which in that scale I guess XDSG and Slate gray
would look like ...gray. OTOH, the last 4 pages contain an extensive
list of references. At, $18.95 it isn't cheap, but it a good starter
book. (Bob Sigman)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part18
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part18
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 18) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
104. What's available on the internet?
A. LOTS!
What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
available.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check
it out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
LIST SERVERS
############
These are available via Email; they're essentially newsgroups for Email:
Seaways Publishing, Inc., publishers of "Seaways' Ships in Scale"
magazine, is pleased to sponsor this shipmodeling and nautical research
list, "seaways-shipmodeling-list", in hopes of bringing together the
talents and resources of shipmodelers and researchers of vessels of all
eras and types.
They intend to discuss materials and sources, construction hints and
tools and anything else of interest to list members, as long as it
relates collecting information on ships and boats and to building
models of them. They'll talk about static models and R/C, wood and
plastic, sail and power, surface and below. It should be both useful
and fun!
On the research side of things they will be developing a multi-specialty
forum, bringing together the talents and resources of nautical and
maritime historians, shipmodelers, nautical archaeologists, marine
artists, archivists, museum specialists, full-size replica designers
and builders and all others interested in the design, construction and
operation of ships and boats. Again, all eras and types will be
discussed.
To subscribe (or unsubscribe), send an e-mail message to:
mailto:seaways-shipmode...@lists.best.com
...In the body of the message, state:
subsingle(or unsubscribe); for a digest instead of individual
messages state "subscribe".
...To post a message to the list iteself, send the message to
mailto:seaways-ship...@lists.best.com .
This list is now archived at:
http://www.seaways.com/listarc/index.html .
They also have the "The Information Seaways' Real-time Conference Room",
at:
http://www.seaways.com/confctr.html .
Questions or suggestions about the list can be sent to Clayton Feldman
at:
mailto:clay...@best.com
The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club, A Model Boating Forum, courtesy of Dave
Mainwaring.
The focus is on Operational Models powered by Sail, Steam or Electric
power. Marine Modelers, Scale and Semi-scale Model Boat Builders, Radio
Control Yachting (sail) enthusiasts and others interested in model
boating activities are encouraged to take part in the forum.
This is a forum for the recreational modelship builder to discuss model
building, model regattas, and club activities.
TO SUBSCRIBE: send the following email (mailto:majo...@cybercom.net):
TO: majo...@cybercom.net
subject:
text:
subscribe model-boating {your-email-address}
There is an nautical archaeology list called SUB-ARCH. To subscribe to
SUB-ARCH:
mailto:LIST...@ASUVM.INRE.ASU.EDU
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE SUB-ARCH {your name here}
MARHST-L is an INTERNATIONAL electronic discussion group sponsored by
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston with the assistance of
Queen's University at Kingston. Subscription is free, and subscribers
will automatically receive messages in their computer mailboxes:
mailto:LIST...@QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE MARHST-L (your name)
TALLSHIP (Sailing and Operation of Traditional Sailing Vessels):
mailto:LISTSERV%VCCSCEN...@VTBIT.CC.VT.EDU
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
subscribe tallship {your name}
...only.
SHIPS (current maritime activity):
mailto:ships-...@access.digex.net
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe Ships {your name}
...only.
SEAROOM-L (discussions of the books of Patrick O'Brian):
mailto:LIST...@NETCOM.COM
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe SEAROOM-L
...only.
YACHT-L (sail racing):
mailto:LIST...@HEARN.BITNET
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
SUBSCRIBE YACHT-L {your name}
....only.
MARITIME NETWORK is a biweekly newsletter focusing on communication,
networking,and database news within the maritime community.
Submissions and articles are welcomed. To subscribeo:
mailto:MARITIME NET...@DIAMONDLT.COM
---I don't know if this is the same as the next item...
OTHER
There is a COMMERCIAL service called Diamond Light Ocean Services, an
on-line marine information provider. If you're interested, contact:
mailto:admini...@diamondlt.com
-- Fee is $12.50 per month, with one hour free access/(24-hour)day.
If you're into card modeling, Paper Modeller's list via: *NEW*
mailto:LIST...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM
To send a message to everyone on the list, just send your mail to:
mailto:CARDM...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM .
Following this short blurb is the long blurb you would have received
had you subscribed yourself. READ IT! KEEP IT! It has all the
instructionsyou need to manage your subscription.
Tell your card modelling friends that if they want to subscribe to the
list, just send a message with the text "SUBSCRIBE CARDMODEL-L" to
mailto:LIST...@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM .
Advanced Access
===============
USENET NEWS GROUPS
##################
Note: These may not all be carried on all servers!
Check out:
news:rec.models.scale (english, general topics)
news:rec.models.rc (english; RC models)
news:rec.models.rc.water (english; RC models)
news:de.rec.modelle (German)
news:t-netz.modelbau (German)
news:zer.t-znet,modelbahn (German)
news:fj.rec.models (Japanese)
Useful stuff can also be found in:
news:alt.binaries.models.scale (posting of pictures of models)
news:rec.woodworking
news:rec.boats
news:rec.boats.building
news:rec.boats.paddle
news:rec.boats.racing
news:rec.crafts.metalworking
news:rec.jewelery
news:sci.archaeology
FAQs
####
Many of these groups have FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) available:
FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ archive
site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
FTP access
##########
*THIS* FAQ can be found at:
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
The rec.woodworking FAQ's can be found in the directory
ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/ .
A listing of approx. 200 maritime museums and approx. 250 historic
vessels in the UK and Eire is at: *NEW*
ftp://ftp.mailbase.ac.uk/pub/list-f-j/history-sources/files/mar-museums.html
There is also a listing of military museums, which has some museums of
interest to ship modellers, eg. the Imperial War Museum, at: *NEW*
ftp://ftp.mailbase.ac.uk/pub/list-f-j/history-sources/files/mil-museums.html
GOPHER access
#############
"Canoe/Kayak" at:
gopher://ftp.std.com/11/nonprofits/canoe.kayak/ .
"US Naval Fighting Ships" at:
gopher://wiretap.spies.com/11/Gov/US-History/Naval .
"Pictures of United States Navy Ships", The navy has a web site that
has a large (>160) collection of images on line. Earliest are
paintings or drawings, but there are photos from surprisingly early.
All ships are pre-WWII. Index at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/00/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy.txt
Images at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/11/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy .
The Polynesian Voyaging Society has a site at:
gopher://nic2/hawaii.net/11/PVS
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part20
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part20
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 20) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
105. What's available on the WWW?
A. LOTS!
This section is for WWW (BROWSER access using Lynx, Mosiac,
Netscape, etc.).
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
CONTINUED FROM PART 19
This part of the FAQ has sections labeled:
Miscellaneous
Sailing Ships
"Steam" ships
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
Research Ships
Government / Military
Miscellaneous
=============
"The Antique and Classic Boat Society", Pacific North West Chapter
(of USA). At:
http://www.halcyon.com/pford/acbsx.htm .
"Interactive Marine Observations". A visual interface to the lastest
worldwide marine weather information being reported by automated
weather stations. At:
http://thunder.met.fsu.edu/~nws/buoy/ .
"International Council for the Exploration of the Sea", at:
http://www.ices.dk/ .
"International maritime signal flags", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-flags.html ,
and their meaning, at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-meaning.html .
"The Semaphore Flag Signalling System.", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/semaphore.html .
"British Waterways Official Website", at:
http://www.rscom.com/boat/ .
"Lighthouse Getaway". This travelog of US east and west-coast
lighthouses now includes over 40 lights, plus other info for the
lighthouse fanatic. At:
http://zuma.lib.utk.edu/lights/ .
"Aquanaut" (scuba diving), at:
http://www.aquanaut.com .
"Marine Engineering History", at: *NEW*
http://www.livjm.ac.uk/~etmdgri1/ .
"Modern Machine Shop" home page; Lots of info on metal working
related topics. At:
http://www.gardnerweb.com/ .
"Det Norske Veritas", a maritime classification society established
1864, at:
http://www.dnv.no/Welcome.htm .
"The Poseidon Project", at:
http://velox.stanford.edu/hellas/poseidon.html .
"Welcome to Salem, Massachusetts", at:
http://www.star.net/salem/default.htm .
"The Scale Models Forum", at:
http://www.startext.net/interact/models.htm
"Ron Ginger's Home Page" A Model Boat builder. Also information on the
"Traditional Small Craft Association", "TSCA of Peabody Museum" and
"North America Model Engineer Show". At:
http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger/
"Wooden Boat" magazine has a web site, at:
http://www.woodenboat.com .
Sailing Ships
=============
"Age of Sail Page" at:
http://www.cs.yale.edu/homes/sjl/sail.html .
"Angelo Mascaro Sailing Page" at the following url:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/vela.html (Italian)
English readers might prefer the following:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/sail.html
"Armada de la Libertecute" sail training ships at Rouen, France,
celebrating the 50th anniversary of the D-Day." (17 July, 1994) at:
http://www.cnam.fr/Images/Armada/ .
"BREST 96" The international meeting of ships and sailors,
13 to 20 July 1996. at:
http://www.enst-bretagne.fr:3000/anglais/Home_page_gb.html .
"Battleship Cove", (Fall River, Mass.; USS Kennedy (DD-850),
HMS Bounty ('62) ), at:
http://www.ici.net/cust_pages/jack/mamie.html .
"Bluenose II Preservation Trust", at:
http://www.bluenose2.ns.ca/ .
The new official "Tall Ship Bounty" website is now at: *NEW*
www.tallshipbounty.org .
"The Continental Sloop Providence Unofficial Home Page", at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu:80/~jconstan/providence.html .
"A History of Ships Named Enterprise", at:
http://www.ee.umanitoba.ca/~djc/startrek/SNE.html .
"Lady Washington", at:
http://www.graysharbor.com/seaport/history.html .
"The Marco Polo reconstruction project" at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom/marcopolo/project.html .
"Sail Training Association (STA)" (Southampton and Salisbury, England)
at:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~sta1/ .
"Salem Builds a Tallship". A re-construction of the Friendship built
in Salem 1797. At:
http://www.star.net/salem/theship.htm .
"HMS Pandora In Pursuit of the Bounty Mutineers" is at:
http://wavefront.wavefront.com/~pjlareau/pandora.html .
"The Maritime Heritage Alliance The Sailing Schooner Madeline".
The Madeline is a reconstruction of a mid 19th century fore and aft
schooner built by the non-profit organisation the Maritime Heritage
Alliance, Traverse City, MI, in 1990. At:
http://ns1.win.net/~torresen/madeline.htm .
"Sailing with the Pride of Baltimore II", at:
http://www.4impact.com/pride/ .
"Steam" Ships
=============
"The SS Cherokee Belle", a place for Steamboat Buffs and Mark Twain
fans to share stories and information, at:
http://www.acy.digex.net/~capnmark/home.html .
"SS John W Brown" (East Coast Liberty Ship), at:
http://www.mma.mass.edu/academic/faculty/jmcgourt/pls/pls.html .
On the west coast, "JEREMIAH O'BRIEN" can be found at:
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/maritime/jeremiah.html ,
..."Jeremiah O'Brien" can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/nautica/Ships/JOBrien.html ,
...and "SS JEREMIAL O'BRIEN NATIONAL LIBERTY SHIP MEMORIAL" is at:
http://www.crl.com/~wefald/obrien.html .
"The Steamships of Stockholm", at:
http://sics.se/~jussi/steamer.html .
"William A. Irvin", was a great lakes steamer that carried iron ore,
stone, grain, etc. There is a kit available and it is pictured at:
http://computerpro.com/~pierre/ .
"Battleship USS TEXAS(BB35)", at:
http://wb5fnd.tech.uh.edu/~scott/bb35.html.
"S.S. United States", at:
http://www.seas.upenn.edu/~michaeld/ssus.htm .
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
=======================================================================
"The Channel Islands Marine Archaeology Resources (CMAR)", along with
their newsletter, Wreckscatter. at:
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~nailgun/cmar .
"Combined Caesarea Expeditions Underwater Excavations", at:
http://www.carleton.ca/~ereinhar/CaesareaHome.html .
"CSS Hunley Update", at:
http://www.cla.sc.edu/sciaa/hunley1.html .
"Diana Nemorensis" (The web page for the project to reconstruct the
Roman ship that was brought out of the waters of lake Nemi near Rome
in 1930), at:
http://www.virtual-pc.com/orontes/index.html .
"Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic", Lunenburg, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/fma/ .
"H.M.C.S. HAIDA"; is the last remaining Tribal Class destroyer in the
world and is located in Toronto, ON at Ontario Place. She saw service
in WWII and the Korean War and has a very distinguished career as
Canada's most famous warship. at: *NEW*
http://www3.sympatico.ca/hrc/haida .
"Historical Diving Society"; at: (mailto:HDS...@AOL.COM)
http://diveweb.com/hds/hds.htm .
"Kelsey Museum Educational and Outreach Programs" (University of
Michigan; Archaeology), at:
http://www.umich.edu/~helseydb/ .
"Texas Historical Comission La Salle Shipwreck Project" (the wreck of
the French explorer La Salle's ship Belle) at:
http://www.thc.state.tx.us/belle/index.htm .
"The Life-Saving Museum Scrapbook", at:
http://www.infi.net/~cwt/life-sav.html .
"L'archaeologie sous les mers, techniques et recherches" une exposition
de la Mission de la recherche et de la Maison des sciences de l'homme au
Muse; archeologique de Nice-Cimiez du 27 mai au 4 septembre 1994 ey ai
siege central du CNRS du 14 novembre au 7 decembre 1994. (The french
ministry of culture is pleased to announce a virtual exhibition on the
Web dedicated to sub-marine archeology.) At:
http://www.culture.fr/culture/archeosm/archeosm.htm .
"Mariner's Museum" (Newport News, VA), at:
http://www.infi.net/mariner .
"Maritime Museum of the Atlantic", Halifax, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/mma/ .
"The Maritime Museum of Portugal", at:
http://www.madinfo.pt/museumar/welcomei.htm .
"Mystic Seaport", at:
http://www.mystic.org/ .
"National Maritime Museum" (Greenwich, England), at:
http://ihr.sas.ac.uk/ihr/maritime/maritime.mnu.html .
"North Carolina Maritime Museum", at:
http://www.agr.state.nc.us/maritime/index.htm .
Northern Maritime Research has (mailto:ad...@ccn.cs.dal.ca)
the "Northern Shipwreck Database" (50,000+ record wreck database), at:
http://www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ad514/Profile.html .
SeaLore is the Internet homeport for the "Mary Rose Virtual Maritime
Museum", Portsmouth, England the tallship "HMS" Rose, a working example
of a 18th c. British navy frigate. HMS Rose was recently featured in
a two page spread in the July 3rd issue of Forbes magazine. It's at:
http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html , and at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~yama/news95.htm , and a site dedicated
to educational visits at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~mary-rose/ ;
mailto:mary...@cix.compulink.co.uk .
"Nautical Archaeology Program at Texas A&M University and the
Institute of Nautical Archaeology", at: mailto:naut...@tamu.edu
http://nautarch.tamu.edu . Also publishes "INA Quarterly".
"The American Tallship "HMS" Rose" The Rose's history, construction,
rigging and history, as well as a photo gallery, at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu/~jconstan/hmsrose/home.html .
"Set Sail on the Delaware" an Exhibition at the Franklin Institute
Science Museum. At:
http://sln.fi.edu/tfi/exhibits/ships.html.
"Hart Nautical Collection" at MIT, Cambridge, MA, USA. At:
http://web.mit.edu/museum/www/collections/hart.html .
"Guide to Historic Ship Wrecks" in Great Britain. Descriptions of 41
wreck sites designated under the Protection of Wrecks Act of 1973. At:
http://www.cru.uea.ac.uk/ukdiving/misc/deswreck.htm .
"Great Lakes Vessel Passage", at:
http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~ncschult/boatnerd.html .
"Great Lakes Visual/Research, Inc." (GLV/R), a consulting firm in
maritime history and archaeology currently located in Lansing,
Michigan, has opened its web site for visitation, review, and comment.
The GLV/R web page features images from the underwater archaeological
excavation of the Great Lakes scow schooner ROCKAWAY at South Haven,
Michigan. At:
http://www.sojourn.com/~azhran/web/index.html .
"Maine Maritime Museum". at:
http://www.bathmaine.com/ .
Michael Dun at the Scottish Institute of Maritime Studies has links to
lists of maritime museums and other information, data on Maritime Fife
in Scotland, and examples of Letters of Marque.
http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_sa/personal/md4/index.html .
"Marine Art Information Center", at:
http://www.marineart.com/ .
"Nordic underwater archaeology:, at:
http://www.abc.se:80/~m10354/uwa/ .
"The Steamer William G. Mather Museum" (Cleveland, Ohio). An excellent
presentation of this museum. Includes links to other Great Lakes sites.
At:
http://little.nhlink.net/wgm/wgmhome.html .
The Pan-American Institute for Marine Archaeology is at:
http://www.wbm.ca/users/nfisher/ .
"Underwater Shipwreck State Parks and Historic Sites", at:
http://www.indiana.edu:80/~scuba/project.html
"Statens Sjohistoriska Musett", Stockholm. The National Maritime Museum
of Sweden. At:
http://www.telemuseum.se/museer/SSHM/Home.HTML .
"Three Facets of Maritime Archaeology: Society, Landscape and Critique"
by Anthony Firth, University of Southampton. At:
http://avebury.arch.soton.ac.uk/Research/Firth/ .
"The "Wasa" Museum", Stockholm. At:
http://www.sunet.se/stockholm/museums/vasa/vasa.html .
...also at:
http://www.vasamuseet.se . (mailto:vasam...@vasamuseet.se)
"The Floating Dock Bermuda - Underwater Archaeology Project", at:
http://www.brown.edu/Research/Underwater_Archaeology/bfd/ .
"Nationalmuseet", The National Museum of Denmark, at:
http://WWW.NATMUS.MIN.DK/IXGB.htm .
There is a picture of what may be a removable Norman boat head from
the marsh at the Norman Invasion site at Hastings. At:
http://www.cablenet.net/pages/book/corresp/heads2.htm .
Research Ships
==============
"World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) Cruise A23" at:
http://www.mth.uea.ac.uk/ocean/a23/welcome.html
The Marine Tech group of Oregon State University College of Oceanographic and
Atmospheric Sciences has brought up a new Mosaic Home Page for their ship R/V
WECOMA. It is available at:
http://www.oce.orst.edu/Wecoma/WecomaHome.html .
"Research Ship Information and Cruise Schedules" at:
http://diu.cms.udel.edu/ships/ship_menu.html .
"The Alfred Wegener Institute" for Polar and Marine Research. At:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de .
- also, a picture of R/V Polarstern at:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de/Pics/Polarstern.jpeg .
Government / Military
=====================
"54 Years Ago Archives" - Patrol Reports from WWII; at:
www.webbuild.com/~jbdavis/ww2.html
"Allied Command Atlantic" at:
http://www.saclant.nato.int .
"American Merchant Marine Academy: has a web site at:
http://www.usmma.edu .
"Battleship New Jersey Historical Museum Society, at:
http://www.quuxuum.org/bnj) . A former crewman has a page with some
excellent pictures from the 1980s, at:
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/rathburne1/nj.htm .
"U.S. Coast Guard", at:
http://www.dot.gov/dotinfo/uscg/ .
"Combat Boat 90H", a Swedish assault boat for amphibious landings. At:
http://www.nada.kth.se/~d94-pek/sboat.html .
"Full Fathom Five" - Patrol Reports from WWII; at:
www.dialnet.net/users/rrupert/ffathm5.shtml
"Imperial Japanese Navy" web page at:
http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/kaigun.htm .
"MIL-HIST" (Military History), at:
http://www.olcommerce.com/cadre/milhist/index.html .
"National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS)", at:
http://kingfish.ssp.nmfs.gov/ .
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adminstration (NOAA), at:
http://www.noaa.gov ; and:
"Fleet Replacement and Modernization" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/fleet.html . This "Fleet Replacement and
Modernization" reference is out of date and should be deleted shortly.
A much better reference and title would be "Ships of the NOAA Fleet" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/nchome/fleet.html ,
or "the NOAA office that manages the Fleet", at:
http://www.noaa.gov/nchome .
A new site is "The MONITOR National Marine Sanctuary", at:
http://www.nos.noaa.gov/ocrm/nmsp/nmsmonitor.html , or, directly
on their home page at:
http://www.cnu.edu/~monitor .
"Naval Historical Center"; contains a LOT of info about where to get
info on ships and naval history from the American Revolution to present,
FAQs, Publication Information, other websites, and commercial resources
for Naval Research; at:
http://www.history.navy.mil .
"NAVSEA Home Page", at:
http://www.navsea.navy.mil .
"Hydromechanics Directorate", Carderock Division. Formerly the David
Taylor Model Basin. At:
http://www50.dt.navy.mil .
"Haze Gray and Underway" maintained by Andrew Toppan; (mailto:el...@wpi.edu)
(includes weekly photo feature on various topics) at:
http://www.announce.com/~elmer/navy/ .
"Welcome to NavyOnLine" at:
http://www.ncts.navy.mil . Also at:
http://www.navy.mil .
"The World War One Document Archive website", at: *NEW*
http://www.lib.byu.edu/~rdh/wwi/
...has been updated with a new subsection on Naval warfare.
"The Naval Postgraduate School", Monterey, CA, at:
http://www.nps.navy.mil .
"Real Time Support for the Warrior", from The Advanced Information
Technology Branch of the Naval Research Laboratory at:
http://www.ait.nrl.navy.mil/rts/warrior.html .
"State of the Russian Navy", at:
http://webcom.com/~amraam/rnav.html .
"Ron Martini's Navy Submarine Base" at:
http://wave.sheridan.wy.us/~rontini/ronpage.html .
"U.S. Naval Sea Cadets Corps", at:
http://www.azstarnet.com/~billm .
"Royal Navy Careers main index", at:
http://www.open.gov.uk/navy/rnhm.htm .
"United States Naval Academy" at Annapolis, MD, is on-line at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/
(check out the Preble Museum at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum ,
and the Henry Huddleston Rogers ship model collection, at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum/gallery.html ).
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part19
Rec-models-scale-archive-name: Ship_Modeling_FAQ/part19
Posting-Frequency: quarterly
Expires: Fri, July 4 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 19) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
105. What's available on the WWW?
A. LOTS!
This section is for WWW (Browser access using Netscape, Mosiac,
Lynx, etc.).
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
This part of the FAQ has sections labeled:
General
FAQs On-line
Lists of Links to Other Sites
Model Boating & Clubs
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
Books and Book Shops
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
General
=======
"Maritime History": a GREAT!!! (and one of the first!) WWW location,
maintained by Lars Bruzelius:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Nautica.html .
"The Information Seaway" (Clay Feldman's Seaways' Ships in Scale page)
is at:
http://www.seaways.com .
This site includes the seaways-shipmodeling-list List-server's archive,
at:
http://www.seaways.com/listarc/index.html .
The OFFICIAL Nautical Research Guild site is at:
http://www.Naut-Res-Guild.org .
...The Nautical Research Guild has been linking researchers, collectors,
and builders of the highest quality ship models for nearly fifty years.
Members share a common dedication to learning about ships and maritime
history through academic research as applied and expressed in the
process of ship model building. Founded in 1948, The Nautical Research
Guild, Inc. is a tax-exempt, non-profit educational organization
supported by an international membership.
"Building the Model Yacht Turmoil" (A superb set of photographs of
the construction of a model by a professional) can be found at:
http://www.midcoast.com/~eddy/models/walkthru/workshop1.html .
There are five sites devoted to cardstock ship modeling:
http://www.wiu.edu/users/mslrc/ ,
http://members.aol.com/CWIOKSTER/paper.html ,
http://users.aol.com/pkaeronaut/pkapmdls.htm#Acrobat , *NEW*
http://er4www.eng.ohio-state.edu/~browns/card-faq.html , and
http://www.pelta.pol.pl .
"From Keel to Truck - De la quille a la pomme du mat - Vom Kiel zum
Flaggenknopf - De Quilla a Perilla - Dalla Chiglia al pomo dell'Arbero" =
-- an excerpt of captain Paasch's famous dictionary of maritime terms.
At:
http://www.refer.fr/termisti/data/vergues/index.htm .
There's a site for boat modeling in Germany, at: *NEW*
http://www.kaestle.com/private .
"The World of the Vikings" This is an excellent guide to Vikings
resources on the Internet; also selling a CD-ROM on the Subject:
http://www.demon.co.uk/past/vikings .
"Viking Navy" home page (thoughts on Viking ships), at:
http://www.digalog.com/viking/ .
"MC-Link Nautical Home Page", at:
http://www.mclink.it/n/nautica/indice.htm (Italian Version).
"Merchant Marine and Maritime" (with some nice animations, if your
browser can handle them), at:
http://www.pacifier.com/~rboggs/ .
"Minesweeper" (the game), at:
http://www.linc.or.jp/~hamano/game/minesweeper.html
"Modelers To Modelers", a new and friendly place for modelers
to exchange modeling informations on the Web. Check it out at:
http://140.118.103.11/mtm/wwwboard.htm .
"Model Hovercraft", at:
www.ils.nwu.edu/~eric/hover.html .
"Model Power Boat Association", at:
http://members.aol.com/ACoburn911/ModelBoats/BoatWeb.htm
"NavPhoto" is just what it says it is - the Internet's largest single
archive of naval warship images. At the moment, the archive is limited
to this century, but it will be expanded to include earlier ships in
the not-to-distant future. About 30-35% of the images have never been
on the Internet before. This is a viewer-supported resource. If anyone
has anything they would like to contribute, they are always happy to
post new images.
http://www.fxbbs.com/Family/navphoto.html . *NEW*
"Berkeley Digitak Library SunSite" permits you to search a large list
of on-line libraries:
http://sunsite.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/searchsite .
"Pop-pop Pages" celebrates the amazingly simple and simply amazing
steam toy, the pop-pop boat. At: *NEW*
http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/pop-pop/ .
Thomas Register. Yes! it's online and you can search it too! The URL is:
http://www.thomasregister.com/ .
The Story of the Titanic, a recapture of the basic facts about the
ship and the catastrophy. At:
http://www.ida.his.se/ida/~a94hango/titanic.chtml .
"Trireme Olympics", at:
http://www.eng.ox.ac.uk/~cascrd/trireme.html .
"Welcome to Tugboat.COM", at:
http://www.tugboats.com .
"R/C Submarines", at:
http://home.aol.com/dmeriman .
"Scale Models Colour Matching", at:
http://msowww.anu.edu.au/~dfk/tech/colour.html .
"Ships In Bottles Home Page" (From Artem Popov in Russia);
mailto:ipar...@redline.ru :
http://194.85.117.36/R_CLUB/H_PARK/SHIP/ship_e.htm .
"Live Steam WWWboard" may be of interest to steam-boaters, at:
http://www.chaski.com/wwwboards/live_steam .
Excellent website, for ferryboat plans and pix: *NEW*
http://www.techpublishing.com/hartford/steambt/steambt.htm .
FAQs On-line
============
THIS FAQ can be found at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html .
"Ship Model Restoration FAQ", at:
http://www.capecod.net/shipmodel/faq.html .
"Metal Web News" (Metal-working stuff, including that FAQ), at:
http://www.ten.k12.tn.us/~wgray .
The rec.crafts.metalworking FAQ can be found at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/index.html .
The rec.models.scale FAQs are available at:
http://www.dtm-corp.com/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html .
"R/C Warship Combat FAQ", at:
http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/HTML/RC/F_Ship_Kombat.html .
Almost all FAQ's can be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ
archive site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
Lists of Links to Other Sites
=============================
Lars Bruzelius also has additional resources at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/ ,
...one of which is a set of pointers to other maritime sites at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/Nautica/Pointers.html .)
"Call me Fishmeal", at:
http://www.well.com/www/pk/fishmeal.html .
"48^ North - The Northern Sailing Magazine", at:
http://www.gosailing.com/
"Gary Kemper's Ship Model Links", at:
http://users.deltanet.com/users/gkemper/ship.html .
"A Guide to Maritime History Information on the Internet", at:
http://ils.unc.edu/maritime/home.html .
"Guide to Museums and Cultural Resources on the Web"; (Natural History
Museum of Los Angeles County); links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.lam.mus.ca.us/webmuseums .
Index to underwater archaeology resources on the Internet, with some
very useful information about Scuba diving and other underwater
archaeology. Its URL is:
http://fiat.gslis.utexas.edu/~trabourn/underwater.html
Larry Barker's "Boating", at:
http://www.teleport.com/~lgbarker/boating.html .
"Mark Rosenstein's Sailing Page", at:
http://community.bellcore.com/mbr/sailing-page.html .
"Museum Information"; at Oxford, UK; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.comlab.ox.ac.uk/archive/other/museums/info.html .
"The Starting Point for Sailing on the Internet"; mostly pointers to
other well known sites. at:
http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca/~sjones/index.html .
"Tall Sailing Ships", a collection of pointers to individual ships, at:
http://www.novagate.com/~schoonerman/tall.htm .
"TOP 10 WEB RESOURCES for rec.models.scale"; pointers to other sites.
at:
http://www.phoaks.com/phoaks/rec/models/scale/ .
Model Boating & Clubs
=====================
"Art's Home Page" (includes RC boats), at:
http://www.biddeford.com/~agertlof/ .
"Bay Area Electric Boaters" (Tampa Bay, FL - Musical!), at:
http://members.aol.com/rcboats/index.html .
"CY Online" (Canadian Yachting magazine), is proud to announce its
partnership with the CANADIAN RADIO YACHTING ASSOCIATION, at:
http://www.canyacht.com/canyacht .
"R/C Electric Mono & Hydro Racing" page from Germany:
http://user.aol.com/matthiasbo/index.html .
"Empire State Model Mariners", at:
http://members.aol.com/andrewhk/esmm/esmm.htm .
"Friends of the Schooner Model Society", at:
http://www.netcharts.com/schooner/ .
"St. Michaels Model Boat Club", at:
http://www.netcharts.com/st.michaels .
"Gig Harbor Model Yacht Club", at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Kelly_Martin .
Ruben King has a web page at:
http://www.compdata.com/~reuben/ .
"Le Club Contrex Modelisme" parle enormement de bateaux modele *NEW*
reduit sur son site Pas beaucoup de voilier mais ca va venir. At:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/bebel/homepfr.htm .
"Maryland Attack Group" (mainly R/C combat with some scale
and some sail) see National IR/CWCC site at:
http://www.netcharts.com/warship/ .
"Model Boats", at:
http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/mboat.html .
"Miniature Ship Models", 1:2400 and 1:3000 scale waterline
ships, at:
http://www.cabm.rutgers.edu/~hooper/miniatures/bill/navmod24.html .
"The Mesa Model Yacht Club" (Mesa AZ) intends to offer helpful
information about building and sailing model yachts, at:
http://www.ionet.net/~mmyc ; mailto:mm...@juno.com .
"Vicious {varies}" (musical!), at:
http://www.tiac.net/users/pmcg/boat.html .
"Portland Model Power Boat Association - Portland, Oregon", at: *NEW*
http://www.rdrop.com/users/jimw/pmpba/ .
"The Home of the Big Gun R/C Warship Combat", at:
http://www.pacificnet.net/~rkehr/big-gun1.htm .
RC-Boat site at:
http://www.in.net/rc-boat/
"RC-Sailing Infocenter" (RC Sailboats, from Finland), at:
http://honeybee.helsinki.fi/surcp/rcsail.htm .
"Ship Modelers Association" homepage can be found at: *NEW*
http://www.ship-modelers-assn.org/
"Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey", at:
http://members.aol.com/smsnnj/web/index.html .
"Shipmodeling Page"; Paolo Pizzi includes a list of plastic and resin
kits, and brief reviews from model builders on them. Any model builder
is free to contribute. The list is at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~timeelapsed/ .
"South Bay Model Shipwrights", at:
http://home.earthlink.net/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html .
"South Okanagan Battle Group", R?C naval combat in Canada; at:
http://alpha.ftcnet.com/~wayneg/SOBG/index.html .
"Task Force 72"; A group of RC ship modellers in Australia, who build
scale warships at a constant 1/72 scale have set up a page of info at:
http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/tf72.html .
Tor Ole has a website (about billings boats), at:
http://home.sn.no/~tranden/index.htm .
"Trinity River Yacht Club" (Texas), at: *NEW*
http://dallasne.quik.com/psage/ .
"U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group". at:
http://www.swcp.com/usvmyg
"The Binnacle"; the Victoria (BC) Model shipbuilders have a (musical)
website at:
http://www.pacificcoast.net/~davewinter/vmss.html .
The Wearside Model Boat Club now has its own Web page, at:
http://totalweb.co.uk/trax/wmbc/ .
"WEST VALLEY R/C MARINERS", at:
http://www.primenet.com/~kndbrd/ .
"MYA Home Page", The UK's Model Yachting Web Site; at:
http://ourworld.Compuserve.com/Homepages/Rob_Vice/ .
Chuck Zender has a very nice model boating home page, dealing
mostly with powered scale model modern warships and boats. At:
http://www.cyberhighway.net/~czee/ .
"UltraHot RC". at: *NEW*
http://www.ultrahot.com .
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
================================
"Bayou Boats Scale Models", Owned and Operated by Nick Rosselli,
Kenner, LA 70065 (504-443-2268); at:
http://www.gna.com/customers/bayoub/bayoub.htm .
"Cape Cod Scale Watercraft", at:
http://www.capecod.net/shipmodel/ . mailto:wha...@aol.com
"Down Memory Lane" features ships, sailing vessels, and ocean liners
in prints, model kits, books, memorabilia. At:
http://www.shipsahoy.com .
"Floating Drydock" has a page at: (mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net)
http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock/ .
"FX Models"; operational and static miniatures for movies/productions
and sale of submarine kits for display/operation. At:
http://www.thenerve2.com/fxmodels .
Here are three links to hardwood and "exotic" wood suppliers:
http://www.hardwoodint.com ,
http://www.metrolink.net/quality/qwsmain.htm ,
http://www.commerce.com/badger/pricelist.html .
"Hobby World" in Montreal has a web page at:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/ ; in particular, Tool section:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/maintool.html ; Ship fittings:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/mainship.html .
contact at: mailto:hobb...@odyssee.net .
"King RC Online Hobby Shop", at:
http://www.twinds.com/kingrc/kingrc.htm .
"Kiyo Designs, a fabric store in Annapolis MD, will be stocking cotton
material suitable for model sailmaking, subject to availability and
demand. At:
http://www.kiyoinc.com/fabric.html .
"Lone Star Models", at:
http://www.lonestarmodels.com .
Metal Buyers Mart is your source for small quantity metal at:
(for catalog, mailto:MBM...@aol.com)
http://www.execpc.com/~metal .
"METZLOFF MODEL YACHTS", Fine Yacht Models and Trophies; at:
http://www.torresen.com/kyle.htm .
"The Model Dockyard. The Scale Model Ship Specialists", at:
http://www.dockyard.co.uk .
"Model Expo", at: *NEW*
http://www.modelexpoinc.com .
"MWD & Associates", at:
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~jpreusse/rc-boat_html .
"Nature Coast Hobby Shop" mail order historic wood ship models, at:
http://naturecoast.com/hobby . Catalog at:
http://naturecoast.com/hobby/catalog.htm .
"Nautica On Line" (Nautica is the first Italian yachting magazine
(over 30 years old) and Nautica On Line was the *first* italian yachting
magazine - perhaps the first in Europe - to go on the Web.) At:
http://www.mclink.it/nautica/magazine/ .
"Nautic 1: Scale Model Ships: INDEX", at: *NEW*
http://www.nautic1.com/scale_model_index.html .
"North Coast Modelworks", at: mailto:model...@stratos.net *NEW*
http://www2.stratos.net/modelworks/ncoast.htm .
"Pacific Front Hobbies Web page", at:
http://www.pacificfront.com .
"Plans of the Schooner Evelina M. Goulart, with Notes", by Erik A.R.
Ronnberg, Jr., at:
http://k12.oit.umass.edu/masag/3208r.html .
"Seaworthy Small Ships" produces a line of unique, inexpensive, and
educational wooden pond model boat kits. They are a company in
southern Maryland (western shore) which produces "model" ships which
are childrens pond boats. The hulls are mainly solid construction
with add on details, masts and rigging. The are meant to be
"representations" of boats rather than true models. At:
http://www.azinet.com/seaw.html .
"Ship models and Nautical salvage" at:
http://www.seajunk.com/nautical .
One of the best known makers of plastic kits is now on the web.
They do produce some ship models in plastic. Their website also
announces new kits and reissues.
http://www.revell-monogram.com .
"SHIPMODEL.COM -The American Marine Model Gallery", at: *NEW*
http://www.shipmodel.com/ .
"Squadron Mail Order's Home Page"; this is a supplier of plastic kits
(aviation, armor, and modern warship) they also publish books and
sell other modeling supplies. They import a lot of kits from eastern
europe. At:
http://www.squadron.com
"Swampworks", at: *NEW*
http://www.kutz.com/swampworks/ .
You will find the Traplet Publications site (publishers of Marine
Modelling) at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/
...and specifically 'Marine Modeling' is at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/MMM.html .
"Welcome to East Coast Model Center" (primarily RC models), at:
http://www.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/ .
"Woodcraft" (lumber, including "Micro-Thin Lumber. This extra-thin
stock (1/16" - 3/8") is cut to size from quality, kiln-dried stock,
100% clear and sanded on both sides." At: *NEW*
http://www.woodcraft.com/pages/woodshop.htm .
"The Woodworking Catalog", at:
http://www.woodworking.com/ .
Books and Book Shops
"Amazon Bookstore" -- The main page indicates that they have over
1,000,000 books. It is easy to search. At:
http://www.amazon.com/ .
"Armchair Sailor" in Newport, R.I.; Charts, Maps, at:
http://www.seabooks.com .
"Bolen Books" in Canada, a good source for UK books unavailable in
the US, at:
http://www.bolen.bc.ca/ .
"BookEST service on the web", at:
http://www.bookestinc.com/ .
"The Patrick O'Brian Page", at:
http://www.princeton.edu/~joes/surprise.html .
"Databoat", boat plans and marine related books. At:
http://www.databoat.com .
"Naval Institute Press", at:
http://www.usni.org .
"Powells Books"; they have a large selection of new and used
books. You can search the store in various subjet areas. At:
http://www.powells.com .
"Stone & Stone Second World War Books"; includes lists of new books,
lists of books in the site owners' personal inventory, lists of book
publishers, a sell-your-books service, numerous links to other book-
related sites, and a free world-wide book search. At:
http://www.sonic.net/~bstone/bookdeal.html ,
or mailto:bst...@sonic.net .
"Warsash Nautical Bookshop" (in England), at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/wnbooks/ .
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
======================================
"The Cunard Archives" (University of Liverpool), at:
http://www.liv.ac.uk/~archives/cunard/chome.htm .
Harland and Wolff, the builders of the Titanic/Olympic/Britannic
trio, have a web site at: mailto:hwtec...@dial.pipex.com
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/hwtech.serv .
"The Knotting Dictionary of Kannet", at:
http://www.netg.se/~jan/old_knot.htm .
"Beej's Pirate Image Archive" at:
http://www.ecst.csuchico.edu/~beej/pirates .
"Peabody Essex Museum", at:
http://www.pem.org/
...includes: "Marine Paintings & Drawings". A marvellous collection of
80 marine paintings from the collections of the Essex Peabody Museum,
Salem, MA, USA. These pictures are well-known to anyone who have
studied the beautiful catalogues of the collection by the Brewingtons
and P.C.F. Smith. At:
http://www.pem.org/maritm3.htm
"The Marine Art Information Center" is a picture gallery of
marine watercolours and paintings supplemented by information on
auctions,galleries, reference materials and museums focusing on
maritime art. Also included are WWW entry points for marine art,
photographs and sounds. At:
http://www.marineart.com .
"The Nautical Mind" Marine Booksellers and Chart Agents, at:
http://www.nauticalmind.com/ .
CONTINUED IN PART 20