TZ Clock
Adrian Cook
my TZ clock boards with the Pinball Lizard ones and now it doesn't look like
I'll be able to get them. Damn, I should have bought them last week :-(
Anyway it looks like I'll have to try and restore my burned ones currently
in the clock, so to that end, does anyone know where I can buy the minute
and the hour optos? I have found the Minute ones at Pinball Heaven but
cannot seem to find the hour ones there (unless I'm missing something).
Any pointers would be appreciated.
Cheers
Adrian Cook
Wildfire Studios
Christian Nyegaard
http://users.sisna.com/woodcock/wmsoptos.htm
Also, i'd advice you to put in some diodes where the 0ohm jumpers are now on
the minute board..
or install 4 white leds and put 100ohm resistors where the 0ohm jumpers
where..
Good luck!
-Chris
"Adrian Cook" <fau...@wildfire.com.au> wrote in message
news:DrCI8.187177$o66.5...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Adrian Cook
One order done!
Cheers
Adrian
Christian Nyegaard <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:sJCI8.6351$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
Enver Haase
>
> These will do the trick:
>
> http://users.sisna.com/woodcock/wmsoptos.htm
>
> Also, i'd advice you to put in some diodes where the 0ohm jumpers are now on
> the minute board..
> or install 4 white leds and put 100ohm resistors where the 0ohm jumpers
> where..
ARGH!
DO NOT DO THAT UNTIL YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING! Sorry for shouting, but
I
hope it'll save a few people's hours and LEDs.
Do install white and bright LEDs there, it's a fine idea. But don't
simply
go for "100 Ohms" as the correct resistance depends on how much current
the
LEDs like to burn bright and what the LEDs breakthrough voltage is.
These
LEDs are NOT all the same.
Get yourself an idea on how to calculate a correct value, google for old
RGP posts on that topic, or try with a potentiometer of 2kOhms first and
lower the resistance until you think the LED's working okay. Then
measure
the resistance you just turned in and buy real resistors of nearly that
value.
Greetings,
Enver
pinl...@pandora.be
I also was going to buy these clock boards (this week...!!)
....someone still has these boards for sale???
Michel Oversteyns
<pinl...@pandora.be> schreef in bericht
news:nkt6fu425snelrc6s...@4ax.com...
> "Adrian Cook" <fau...@wildfire.com.au> wrote:
>
> >Well, it looks like the jokes on me, I've been saving my pennies to
replace
> >my TZ clock boards with the Pinball Lizard ones and now it doesn't look
like
> >I'll be able to get them. Damn, I should have bought them last week :-(
> >
>
> I also was going to buy these clock boards (this week...!!)
> ....someone still has these boards for sale???
Same story here, I also wanted to buy these boards (dammit, I always
wait too long...).
- Is there any one out there who could make the same boards as the
Pinball Lizard made?
- Or is there perhaps anyone interested in buying the entire stock of
Pin.Liz.
and sell it to r.g.p. members? Just a thought...
- Did anyone perhaps download the entire site for off-line viewing? I could
use the information that was printed on the site...
Michel Oversteyns
--Belgium/Europe--
Warren McCulloch
http://web.archive.org/web/20010925132849/http://www.pbliz.com/
No pics are cached but useful info
Warren McCulloch (who has a TZ and can design PCBs!!!)
Christian Nyegaard
vave...
add 100ohm resistors and you should be safe, allmost with any sort of led..
-Chris
"Enver Haase" <en...@convergence.de> wrote in message
news:3CF354D7...@convergence.de...
Warren McCulloch
http://www.trainweb.org/girr/tips/tips7/white_led_tips.html
Warren McCulloch
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:SzOI8.6607$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
Ken S
a 2 volt drop across the leds, current calculates out to be a little
over 65 ma (at peak) using 100 ohm resistors. Even half way down the
sine wave current calculates out to be 24.5 ma. I believe most of
these leds are rated at about 20 ma max.
Earlier post suggested for anyone working on clock board design to
think about running 5 volts dc into the clock for both illumination
leds and the opto leds. Resistor values would need to be changed.
The benefits of this would be;
Heat produced by the led series current limiting resistors would be
reduced by about 60 to 70 percent for the 8 opto leds as well as the
ones used for illunination.
Possibilily damaging led reverse voltage would be eliminated.
Current to the leds would be steady and easy to calculate (as opposed
to AC).
Easiest way to obtain the 5 volts would be by adding a 7805 regulator
($.75) outside the clock in the 12 volt line as the 12 volts would no
longer be needed.
Ken S
On your problem with the top minute opto problem (earlier thread),
replacing the plastic snap in spacers between the boards with 1/4'
threaded 4-40 spacers will move the minute board out slightly so the
minute hand flag will be positioned into the opto slot further. Made a
post on this with picture about a year ago. Do a Google search if
interested.
Ken S
Christian Nyegaard
used my electronics education in years, my memory might've gone rusty. One
of these days I'll find some of my old school books and double check the
theory.. But as far as I can remember, you have a sine curve..
Imagine that this isn't a square curve, but a sine curve, ok? :
_/\_/\_/\_
\/ \/
Where the dotted line is 0v. Shouldn't each max at about 3.15v ? Thus
creating 6.3v AC?
I really can't belive my memory would be this bad on this subject.. could
allways just measure half the curve to earth and see what it yields.. should
be something around 3.15, depending on the quality of your multimeter as far
as I'm able to remember my theory.
along with that memory is a memory of leds generally doing like 25ma.
white leds usually want higher voltage to run, i've seen some run as high as
around 6vac.
Running 5vac into the clock wouldn't be a bad idea at all, just takes a bit
of work and effort.
Would also eliminate the flashing effects of the leds, especially noticable
on 50hz setups (like eu).
Now, if I'm completly wrong here (which I still don't think I am :P), the
leds should be able
to handle the reverse current/voltage fine with a 100ohm resistor in series
with it..
worst case? dead led. $1-3 part, depending on retailer :-).
-Chris
"Ken S" <ksweek...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:3cf3be6d....@news.mindspring.com...
Warren McCulloch
Don't forget that the 6.3VAC is in RMS volts. So to get the peak voltage you multiply by Volts RMS
by 1.414 for a sine wave.
6.3 x 1.414 = 8.9V peak
--
Warren McCulloch
T*Z, ST*TNG, I*J, Ge*nie, El*Dorado COG
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:LjRI8.6685$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
Ken S
What you are probably thinking of is peak to peak voltage. You do
divide peak to peak voltage by 2 to get peak voltage, If you want to
get the rms value you multiply peak voltage by .707. All this only
applies to ac sine waves. Hope that helps.
Ken S
Kerry Stair
way" right before I get run over going the other way . . . :-(
--
Kerry Stair
Mantis Amusements
www.mantisamusements.com
"Michel Oversteyns" <michel.o...@REMOVEpi.be> wrote in message
news:ad0a1j$975$1...@reader06.wxs.nl...
GPE
Assuming clock lamp voltage = 6.3volts (is this right?) and a 100 ohm load
resistor --
LED current = 63mA. This results in bright LED with a short lifespan.
Typical max for an LED is 20mA - always run LED's at *LESS* than absolute
maximum!
Best way to guage what you need for a resistor - calculate it!
-- Ed
"Enver Haase" <en...@convergence.de> wrote in message
news:3CF354D7...@convergence.de...
GPE
That gives you (3.15 - Vf) / 100.
Vf is typically in range of 1.2volts (depends on actual LED)
(3.15 - 1.2) / 100 = 19.5mA -- close to the typical 20mA (also LED
dependent)
But you also have to worry about the negative cycle of the AC.
Vr is 3.15volts -- but actually has a peak voltage of about 4.45volts.
Some LED's can't handle this Vr very well.
hmmm... I get the feeling of deja-vu with this conversation....
-- Ed
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:SzOI8.6607$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
GPE
-- Ed
"Warren McCulloch" <adar...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:uf7hins...@corp.supernews.com...
Chris Graham
with it so the diode conducts the Vr.
"GPE" <G...@Cox.net> wrote in message
news:MhXI8.3223$ib4.1...@news1.east.cox.net...
David Gersic
>- Did anyone perhaps download the entire site for off-line viewing? I could
>use the information that was printed on the site...
I haven't tried it, but you might try putting the URL in to this site
http://www.archive.org/ and seeing what you get.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| |
|David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
|Systems Programmer Northern Illinois University |
| |
| Justice is incidental to law and order. - J. Edgar Hoover |
| |
|I'm tired of receiving crap in my mailbox, so the E-mail address has been|
|munged to foil the junkmail bots. Humans will figure it out on their own.|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Michel Oversteyns
I've tried it and there are some (not all) pages available.
Michel.
"David Gersic" <dgersic_@_niu.edu> schreef in bericht
news:ad65mf$qu2$8...@husk.cso.niu.edu...
Steve
1/4 watt 100 ohm film resistor in there and your LED circuit draws
serious current (due to the type of LED you put in and its current
draw), it'll probably be too low a watt rating. I used 100 ohm 1/2
watt resistors and they do feel somewhat hot still but the brightness
is about right.
I also noticed a slight flicker when standing back from the game and
looking towards it. Probably due to it being off for half of the cycle
when it's reverse biased (actually it's a little more than half of a
cycle since you need to pass the forward conducting voltage on the
rise of the positive sine wave and the fall of the positive cycle when
it turns off). That means the LED is on basically half of the time and
off the other half which would make it close to a 30HZ strobe.
The other thing I noticed is that these bright white LEDs are really
quite directional meaning that if the angle isn't right the lighting
doesn't look quite right. Probably why you always see a picture of the
bright white LEDs demonstrated from straight on when looking at the
clock. Of course looking at it straight on will make you see the
Twilight Zone allright due to seeing spots for a while when staring at
these bright babies. Then your center of vision (rods and cones and
all) won't see the pinball as it drains. Of course you'd look like an
idiot squatting down and staring at your superbright LEDs while
playing but some of us look like an idiot standing upright and not
staring at LEDs at all, so I guess this isn't as big a deal as I
thought. Hmmmm. Maybe I should go back to sniffing solder flux.
steve
Steve Trischetta
engineer, so tell why this wouldn't work...
Why can't you just put two white LEDs next to each other, with opposite
orientation, so that one LED
lights on half the AC cycle. Wouldn't this reduce the flicker and the
brightness of each could be halved?
--
Steve Trischetta
Current: M-M, M-B, S-S, S-C, I-J, CFT-BL, ST-TNG, T-Z, White-Water, Sha-dow,
New-York (EM)
Previous: A-F-M, C-V, To-TAN, Con-go, NB.A-FB
"Steve" <st...@woodman.org> wrote in message
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Christian Nyegaard
However it might work :-).
-Chris
"Steve Trischetta" <s.tris...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:7yIJ8.15661$UT.10...@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Spinner
On my replacement board, two of the four LEDs are driven
from alternate phases of the AC cycle. Top left and bottom
right are on one phase and the other two on the other phase.
Sort of like how interlacing works on a TV. It does make
a subtle difference. Doing it this way doesn't require any
additional parts, and would work for anyone who has put
LEDs on their clock boards. Just turn two around.
The CAD for the board is complete and it will be set out
for fabrication (5 day turnaround) on Monday.
Image is here: http://r.d2g.com/pinball/tzclock.gif
-Mark
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:4CJJ8.7870$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
Christian Nyegaard
-Chris
"Spinner" <user...@i87.com> wrote in message
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Spinner
Yes, one board. The front optos are put in
tall sockets, and the rear hour optos go on the
back of the same board. No interboard connector
(more reliable), better air circulation with one board,
and cheaper too.
-Mark
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
news:_JKJ8.7908$fG3.2...@news2.ulv.nextra.no...
Christian Nyegaard
And what did you do for illumination ?
-Chris
"Spinner" <user...@i87.com> wrote in message
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Christian Nyegaard
-Chris
"Christian Nyegaard" <chri...@REMOVETHISnyegaard.com> wrote in message
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