Need recommendations for pneumatic construction stapler

[Ignoramus20263]

I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i

[dca...@krl.org]

Long ago in a land far away I worked where we used a bunch of staples.
We used Duofast staples and Duofast supplied the stapler as long as we used theil staples. You might contact them and see what sort of deal they will do.

Dan

[Terry Coombs]

  I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .

--
Snag
Ain't no dollar sign on
peace of mind - Zac Brown

[Leon]

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:

Well none will break the bank if the fail but if you need something
that will last and be rebuildable I would go with the brands that have
been making pneumatic guns for years on end.

A little extra money might yield an easier to use gun and a more
comfortable to use gun.

I would suggest, in no certain order, Bostitch, Hitachi, Senco.

[ChairMan]

Find a old Senco M11. I've had one for 40 yrs

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Senco-Model-M2-Pneumatic-7-16-Crown-Stapler-16-GA-1-3-8-2-Leg-120-Ps/253470553864?hash=item3b0405b708:g:AOAAAOSwcFFang8P

[k...@notreal.com]

On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>
wrote:

Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.

[Terry Coombs]

  I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

A framing nailer to build a fence?

[Terry Coombs]

  Yup , 6' cedar dogear nailed to treated 2X4's . That was a unique
fence , we used steel posts and covered both sides with rough cut cedar
. T'was a mighty fine looking fence when I finished it .

[-MIKE-]

I'm late top the party, but I recently bought DeWalt pneumatic stapler
(DWFP1838?) and couldn't be more pleased with it. It's pretty light but
powerful.

I had a job where I was making a bunch of plywood cases and shot
500-1000 staples over the course of a couple days. Not a single misfire
or jam.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

[Leon]

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

[Terry Coombs]

This gun also shoots smaller nails - I used 8d to do the wall sheathing
, floor , and roof decking .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:26:40 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Sounds like huge overkill. I have a siding/fencing nailer for such
and use stainless ringshank nails. Are ringshanks available for
framing nailers?

[k...@notreal.com]

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.

[Leon]

Well steel posts do not rot like cedar and treated do in clay soil along
the gulf coast. And 2x4 and 6" pickets is standard fare here also.

Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.

[Leon]

I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

[k...@notreal.com]

I generally try not to shoot nails into steel posts. ;-)

>Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.

I've never seen them.

[k...@notreal.com]

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

[Terry Coombs]

  Ring shanks are pretty common in collated nails ... just because you
haven't seen them doesn't mean squat . As far as shooting nails into
steel , it's actually pretty common . Not with a pneumatic unit of
course , for that I use a powder actuated tool .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:03:40 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Collated nails, sure, I use them in my siding/fencing nailer. But for
a framing nailer?

[Terry Coombs]

  I built what the customer wanted . He's payin' for it , I'm doing
what he wants - within reason and the law . I also rebuilt his deck ,
and did a lot of other small jobs for him . Had several customers in
that circle of friends , and they all lived in that same general
neighborhood . A handyman that has multiple skills can pretty much write
his own ticket in some places . North Midtown Memphis is one of them .
Word gets out and a guy can make a decent living doing home repairs .

[Terry Coombs]

Just what kind of nails were you expecting ? These are full round head
nails and come in 21° strips held together with a plastic material .
Others are 30° clip heads and held together in a strip with strips of
paper . The ones for my P-C finish nailers are a straight strip held
together with some kind of glue . What are you calling collated nails ,
coils held with wire ?

[Leon]

On 3/9/2018 9:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Yeah! but steel posts rarely have to be replaced. Not so with wood
posts "down here". If the pickets are about toast, the posts will not
generally last much longer. It is a bad idea to replace only pickets
and rails even if the posts seem sound. The posts poop out 3~5 years
later. ;~(

>
>> Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.
>
> I've never seen them.
>

IIRC I have to buy from a trades store.

[Leon]

On 3/9/2018 10:09 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Snip

>>>>>
>>>> Well steel posts do not rot like cedar and treated do in clay soil along
>>>> the gulf coast. And 2x4 and 6" pickets is standard fare here also.
>>> I generally try not to shoot nails into steel posts. ;-)
>>>
>>>> Yes, I shoot ring shank galvanized nails out of my framing nailer.
>>> I've never seen them.
>>
>>   Ring shanks are pretty common in collated nails ... just because you
>> haven't seen them doesn't mean squat . As far as shooting nails into
>> steel , it's actually pretty common . Not with a pneumatic unit of
>> course , for that I use a powder actuated tool .
>
> Collated nails, sure, I use them in my siding/fencing nailer. But for
> a framing nailer?
>

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40017760264/in/dateposted-public/

[Leon]

Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

[Terry Coombs]

  That's the same type nails my gun uses . A lot of people don't like
the weight of the HF gun , but in many cases that added weight is an
asset . I've used a lot of guns over the years , and find that the
reduced felt recoil is a benefit - to me . Spend a day in a commercial
cabinet shop shooting boxes together with 16ga 1/2" crown staples .
You'll soon find yourself reaching for the heavier gun ...

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:24:23 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

Yes, or plastic. I've never seen ringshank sticks for framing
nailers.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:14:52 -0600, Terry Coombs <snag...@msn.com>

I have no doubt about that. It's certainly not unique to TN. It's
probably pretty universal, at least in places where there is an active
economy.

[Terry Coombs]

  Likely because you've never looked .

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).

[Leon]

Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/26859054658/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40687347222/in/dateposted-public/

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 11:12:33 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

Which is why I keep the pickets high enough off the ground to get a
trimmer underneath them - keep the grass away from the wood.

>See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
>of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
>met up with.
>
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/26859054658/in/dateposted-public/
>
>https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/40687347222/in/dateposted-public/

Yeah, that's what I'd pictured from you description. I've never seen
fence construction like that.

[Leon]

Yeah, I missed commenting on that. And there is nothing wrong with
doing that. Most people down here want their fences touching the ground
to keep small pets contained. If they can see under the fence the have
a reason to dig under the fence. ;~) And another consideration, here,
we have St. Augustine/carpet grass. It is typically pretty thick and
best kept tall, cut at 3.5+" during the dry months. To keep the picket
off of the wet morning grass so that you could weed eat under the
picket, the picket would have to be pretty high above the actual ground.

AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:07:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>

We had Zoysia when we were in Alabama. That stuff is like bamboo. The
fence wasn't to keep critters in (the cats would just go over, anyway
;-).

I don't even put PT next to the ground, if there's any way around it.

>AND just a side note about the rot board. The rot board holds up very
>well to a weed eater compared to a cedar picket.

But it looks like PT, against the cedar, right?

[Leon]

Yes sorry, PT everything except the pickets. I hate PT pickets, they
are hard to find dry and bow like crazy. The cedar pickets tend to hold
up much better, and look better.

[Scott Lurndal]

k...@notreal.com writes:

>Sounds like huge overkill. I have a siding/fencing nailer for such
>and use stainless ringshank nails. Are ringshanks available for
>framing nailers?

I shoot 8p ring-shanks in my PC framer when laying subfloor.

[Gunner Asch]

On Wed, 07 Mar 2018 20:27:48 -0600, Ignoramus20263

<ignoram...@NOSPAM.20263.invalid> wrote:

>I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
>machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
>shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.
>
>Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
>comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.
>
>Thanks a ;lot
>
>i

Used to be pretty good stuff. No idea about now. I have a few Senco
staplers that work pretty well.

http://www.senco.com/


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[Gunner Asch]

Whats a "rot board"?

Inquiring minds want to know.

[Gunner Asch]

Damn that was a quick answer! Thanks!!!

(Grin)