Smithy Granite 1324 vs. 1340

[RFrank1234]

I am new to metalworking and I am looking at purchasing a Smithy 1324 or 1340
machine. Are these good machines to learn on? Also should I buy the the
extended 39" lathe found on the 1340? Is it common to run pieces larger than
24" on a lathe for most hobby type projects? Will I be sorry for not paying
more to get the 1340's 39" lathe?

Thanks,

Ryan Franklin
rfran...@aol.com

[Ted Edwards]

Do a search on this NG. This is a recurrent theme with wide differences
of opinion. I have had my Smithy for several years and am happy with
it.

Ted
--
Please note changed e-mail address
was: Te...@bc.sympatico.ca
now: Te...@telus.net

[Peter Bulk]

> I am new to metalworking and I am looking at purchasing a Smithy 1324
or 1340
> machine. Are these good machines to learn on?

Good choice.

> Also should I buy the the extended 39" lathe found on the 1340? Is it
common to run >pieces larger than 24" on a lathe for most hobby type
projects?

Not common at all. If needed go to machine shop.

[P. Roza]

"RFrank1234" <rfran...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20011103150402...@mb-mq.aol.com...

If you want to run longer pieces, you can get the steady rest and follow
rest pack.
I turn 24" rifle barrels on my CB1220XL, which has only 20" travel, without
a steady rest, by running one end of the barrel into the quill, doing half,
then tuning it around to get the other half.

[Tom Young]

I expect you'll have a lot of fun with either one, but I'd go with the
longer bed if only for convenience. (I have a Shoptask with 20" between
centers.) A few reasons:

First, a chuck and drill in the tailstock can reduce the usable bed length
by 6-8", so if you're drilling with the tailstock (a pretty common
operation) and if your workpiece is too large to fit through the spindle
hole, you're left with only 16"-18". Subtract the width of your chuck and
you're down to 12"-14".

Second, if you go with the shorter bed, you might find yourself having to
remove the tailstock a lot. If you're using, say, a 10"-long boring bar,
you're limited to perhaps a 10" workpiece (again assuming it doesn't fit
through the hole), or else the back end of the boring bar will run into the
tailstock.

Finally, I usually have to remove the tailstock when I try to mill
something, or else my vise runs into it. Granted, I'm using a 6" Kurt with
the handle sticking out to the right. None of these issues are
insurmountable, of course, but if you have the choice (given the money and
space), I think you'll find the longer bed to be a bit less cramped.

Good luck with your decision.

--
Tom Young

"RFrank1234" <rfran...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20011103150402...@mb-mq.aol.com...

[Robert Swinney]

How do you rifle those barrels?

Bob Swinney
"P. Roza" <ro...@home.com> wrote in message
news:SclF7.21886$wj5.11...@news1.rdc1.sfba.home.com...

[P. Roza]

"Robert Swinney" <jud...@home.com> wrote in message
news:TlCF7.66031$pb4.34...@news2.rdc2.tx.home.com...

> How do you rifle those barrels?
>

Barrels can be buttom rifled on a lathe, given the proper setup and tooling,
but this is neither cheap, nor easy. I don't do it.
The barrels come already bored and rifled. You can buy them as a blank,
which has no chamber or thread, or with threads and a short or long chamber.
There are a number of common contours, but sometimes it is required or
desirable to turn to your own profile. Sometimes, when sporterizing a
military rifle, you may want to go from a stepped barrel to a tapered
barrel. This can be easily accomplished on a k98, by stripping the action,
and turning the barreled action on the lathe to the new profile. Or maybe
you want a match heavy barrel for an FAL. No problem. Just buy a short
chambered barrel made for a Mauser, turn the barrel to appropriate contour,
turn off Mauser threads, thread for FAL, and bore gas port hole. Then just
screw in the barrel, mount the gas block and reset headspace.

[Gunner]

"P. Roza" <ro...@home.com> wrote:

On a side note Mr. Roza, have you ever installed a barrel on an FN49?
Ive an Egytian one in 8x57 that Id like to rebarrel in .308. Ive
neither the knowlege or the machines do do this properly.

Gunner

"Good argument is more of a dance than a battle."
Unknown

" As my father told me long ago, the objective is not to convince someone
with your arguments but to provide the arguments with which he later
convinces himself."
David Friedman

[Steven C. Hodges]

(RFrank1234) wrote in message > I am new to metalworking and I am looking at purchasing a Smithy 1324 or 1340

> machine. Are these good machines to learn on? Also should I buy the the
> extended 39" lathe found on the 1340? Is it common to run pieces larger than
> 24" on a lathe for most hobby type projects? Will I be sorry for not paying
> more to get the 1340's 39" lathe?

I strongly concurr with Mr. Young: use of the mill is much much easier
with the longer bed lathe. If space and money are not a problem go
with the 40" bed. The Granite series is a highly developed 3 in 1
that has excellent lathe functioning and adequate mill functioning.
It is really surprising how much torque these machines can develop
so a large vise is essential. The Granite series price reflects
their quality. My preference would be for a separate 12-36 lathe:
tolerable versions of which (chinese sourced) are available for
$2000 that would exceed the Granite capability. Adding an RF 30/45
variant for ~$1000 would provide a mill with a major increment in
capacity and functioning over the Granite. Cost would be about the
same but there would be shipping for an extra 1500 # of metal and
the hassles of installation. If you can handle the Granite this
should be doable. Steve

[P. Roza]

"Gunner" <gun...@lightspeed.net> wrote in message
news:mbvnutsnga1oq86j4...@4ax.com...

I have seen the barrels for the Fn 49 advertised in a few places, in .308
cal. I don't recall how timing is set on these barrels. It is either by
adjusting the shoulder of the barrel, or by using a timing nut, as on the L1
(inch type FAL). After the timing is set, so the gas port is vertical, you
will need to set headspace by either getting the right size locking
shoulder, or by using a set of go and no-go gauges and a chamber reamer.