Cutting and threading bicycle spokes

[John Doe]

Should I worry about temper when cutting through a 2 mm diameter
stainless steel bicycle spoke using a rotary tool?

After the cut, I dipped them in a cup of water, with a little fizz, if
it matters.

We do not cut threads for bicycle spokes, we press them with rollers.
They say that helps maintain strength. I bought a little spoke making
gadget (Hozan C-700 Spoke Threader).

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51HZNG-86JL.jpg

No micrometer, but using a decent quality caliper...

The spoke is 2 mm diameter.
The farthest threads are about 2.1 mm diameter.
The threads nearest the end of the spoke are about 2.2 mm diameter.

I suppose that could be attributed to the angle of the bolts coming out
of their base. But easy to figure the bolts are not strong enough,
considering the force required to press threads into steel.

Some say use cutting fluid when making the threads. That sounds silly to
me. I am sure the rollers require heavy duty grease, and I doubt you can
just spray or drip cutting fluid onto that without messing up the
grease.

Thanks.

[Bob La Londe]

Rolling the threads into stainless makes the ends quite hard. Most
common stainless alloys work harden.

[whit3rd]

On Tuesday, May 15, 2018 at 7:23:43 PM UTC-7, John Doe wrote:
> Should I worry about temper when cutting through a 2 mm diameter
> stainless steel bicycle spoke using a rotary tool?
>
> After the cut, I dipped them in a cup of water, with a little fizz, if
> it matters.
>
> We do not cut threads for bicycle spokes, we press them with rollers.

Rolling threads after cutting to length will work-harden the stainless.
That's probably OK, the spoke mates to a brass (relatively soft)
fitting, and hard-against-soft is good. Soft-against-soft is weak,
and hard-agaiinst-hard promotes galling (the parts bind and stick).

So, no heat treatment seems required. Unless, that is, the wire
is hard-drawn and the thread rolling requires an initial anneal?

I'd worry more about the implication that the wire isn't clamped
in a heat-sinking vise when the cut is being made; that cutting disk
will last longer and cut better if you don't hand-hold the tool and
parts, but make a position/clamp/slide jig to move the
spoke into the wheel (with the rotary tool held stationary).

[John Doe]

Vice versa...

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5795/22787225706_94715da04b_o.jpg

Using the chop saw, besides an accurate cut, Yes seems it makes the
cut off wheels last a very long time compared to handholding the
rotary tool.

I was thinking about using a 2" wide piece of aluminum flat bar for
clamping the spokes during cutting. Clamping the spokes to wood
eventually burned the wood and loosened the clamp on subsequent
spokes. The fact aluminum would help dissipate heat sounds like
another good reason to use it.



By the way... I heard about the like materials binding, in this group
maybe by you. If the USENET archive were still available, I could
pinpoint that. Used that binding theory to make my monitor hanger.
Have loved it, for years, every day it helps adjust the monitor, while
sitting or lying down. Nothing could be simpler or easier to use.
Monitor height and pivot is infinitely adjustable. Will never wear
out...

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7419/16202678509_33176b5211_o.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5079/5825209971_36a704bfc9_z.jpg

Aluminum sticks very neatly to aluminum!
Binding you can depend on.

[Gunner Asch]

Anything...fluid, grease, yak semen will work. But it must..must be
lubed with cold threading


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