Low pressure steam to soften house paint?

[bob prohaska]

Hi all,

I'm interested in removing fairly thick paint without scattering
debris. There are a few videos on Youtube of folks using low pressure
steam to soften paint so it can be scraped off, does anybody have
personal experience they're willing to share? The job is around
600 square feet (redwood siding on a house).


I'm aware of using low pressure steam to remove wet-glued things
like wallpaper but always thought steam wouldn't be hot enough to
soften paint. If it is, that would be a great help.

Thanks for reading!

bob prohaska

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 3 May 2016 02:47:23 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
<b...@www.zefox.net> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I'm interested in removing fairly thick paint without scattering
>debris. There are a few videos on Youtube of folks using low pressure
>steam to soften paint so it can be scraped off, does anybody have
>personal experience they're willing to share? The job is around
>600 square feet (redwood siding on a house).

https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations Protect yourself.
(from the Feds, not the simple lead paint) In Oregon (dunno if it's
Federal law) you have to test if it's over 60s/f of paint repairs.
I chose not to do major paint repairs because of the strict laws and
licensing for lead.

>I'm aware of using low pressure steam to remove wet-glued things
>like wallpaper but always thought steam wouldn't be hot enough to
>soften paint. If it is, that would be a great help.

Hot air works great. I stripped all my kitchen cabinet doors with a
hot air gun and putty knife. Once I got the right pace, it was
stripping paint at better than 4 linear feet per minute with a 4"
putty knife. It's messy, but it drops straight down to the ground and
doesn't go airborne.

Since then, they've invented the paint stripper box, and they can be
rented. One example: http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm
Vids show that they work well, and I saw the guys on This Old House
use one. Tom Silva liked it. <g>

http://tinyurl.com/jubbzx4 another mfgr.

--
Education is that which remains when one has
forgotten everything he learned in school.
--Albert Einstein

[bob prohaska]

Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>
> https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations Protect yourself.
> (from the Feds, not the simple lead paint) In Oregon (dunno if it's
> Federal law) you have to test if it's over 60s/f of paint repairs.
> I chose not to do major paint repairs because of the strict laws and
> licensing for lead.
>

Where I live homeowners have vastly more latitude than contractors.
Thus my interest in doing the removal myself. Once the paint's gone
a contractor can do the rest of the work unhampered.

> Hot air works great. I stripped all my kitchen cabinet doors with a
> hot air gun and putty knife. Once I got the right pace, it was
> stripping paint at better than 4 linear feet per minute with a 4"
> putty knife. It's messy, but it drops straight down to the ground and
> doesn't go airborne.

Heat guns make me uneasy: the wind can penetrate into spaces and reach
combustibles I can't see or reach. Steam, if it works, avoids this issue.

>
> Since then, they've invented the paint stripper box, and they can be
> rented. One example: http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm
> Vids show that they work well, and I saw the guys on This Old House
> use one. Tom Silva liked it. <g>
>
> http://tinyurl.com/jubbzx4 another mfgr.
>

Radiant heaters seem a better idea than heat guns. No hot air penetration,
so no risk of heating stuff I can't see. They are rather expensive: The
first one you list goes for ~400$, the second at $125 is better but still
a great deal more than $50 for a steamer from Lowes.

Everybody shows Youtube videos of paint removal schemes working like magic.
Trouble is, they're apt to be cooked demonstrations ;-) I'm looking for
some "uncooked" experiences.

Thanks for replying!

bob prohaska

[Bob Engelhardt]

I haven't used steam to remove paint, but I have used it on wallpaper
quite a lot. Projecting from that experience, I would say that steam
paint removal, if it worked at all, would be really, really, ... REALLY
slow!

Bob

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 4 May 2016 02:19:30 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
<b...@www.zefox.net> wrote:

>Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>>
>> https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations Protect yourself.
>> (from the Feds, not the simple lead paint) In Oregon (dunno if it's
>> Federal law) you have to test if it's over 60s/f of paint repairs.
>> I chose not to do major paint repairs because of the strict laws and
>> licensing for lead.
>>
>Where I live homeowners have vastly more latitude than contractors.
>Thus my interest in doing the removal myself. Once the paint's gone
>a contractor can do the rest of the work unhampered.
>
>> Hot air works great. I stripped all my kitchen cabinet doors with a
>> hot air gun and putty knife. Once I got the right pace, it was
>> stripping paint at better than 4 linear feet per minute with a 4"
>> putty knife. It's messy, but it drops straight down to the ground and
>> doesn't go airborne.
>
>Heat guns make me uneasy: the wind can penetrate into spaces and reach
>combustibles I can't see or reach. Steam, if it works, avoids this issue.

Right since it only injects moisture into areas you don't _ever_ want
moisture inside. <g> I wasn't suggesting using an air gun for a
whole house, Bob. That's why I suggested the stripper box. The heat
gun was for reference, and what I had personal experience with.

>> Since then, they've invented the paint stripper box, and they can be
>> rented. One example: http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm
>> Vids show that they work well, and I saw the guys on This Old House
>> use one. Tom Silva liked it. <g>
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/jubbzx4 another mfgr.
>>
>Radiant heaters seem a better idea than heat guns. No hot air penetration,
>so no risk of heating stuff I can't see. They are rather expensive: The
>first one you list goes for ~400$, the second at $125 is better but still

You'd spend more on sandpaper, and probably take more time. Anyway,
look into renting one, instead. I just checked and HOme Depot doesn't
carry them for sale or rent.

>a great deal more than $50 for a steamer from Lowes.

See my moisture comment. As a licensed Oregon contractor, I'd never
use a steamer like that, period.

>Everybody shows Youtube videos of paint removal schemes working like magic.
>Trouble is, they're apt to be cooked demonstrations ;-) I'm looking for
>some "uncooked" experiences.

Right. I've talked to people who've used stripper boxes and they say
it takes longer than the specs, but they do work well. They get hot
enough to take all the layers off at once, but temps are lower than
451F. And they're considerably faster, less messy, and much safer
than sanding.


>Thanks for replying!

Jewelcome.

[Steve W.]

bob prohaska wrote:
> Larry Jaques <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>> https://www.epa.gov/lead/lead-laws-and-regulations Protect yourself.
>> (from the Feds, not the simple lead paint) In Oregon (dunno if it's
>> Federal law) you have to test if it's over 60s/f of paint repairs.
>> I chose not to do major paint repairs because of the strict laws and
>> licensing for lead.
>>
> Where I live homeowners have vastly more latitude than contractors.
> Thus my interest in doing the removal myself. Once the paint's gone
> a contractor can do the rest of the work unhampered.

Same here. You only need to worry about it if you are getting paid to
remove it from property you don't own.

>
>> Hot air works great. I stripped all my kitchen cabinet doors with a
>> hot air gun and putty knife. Once I got the right pace, it was
>> stripping paint at better than 4 linear feet per minute with a 4"
>> putty knife. It's messy, but it drops straight down to the ground and
>> doesn't go airborne.
>
> Heat guns make me uneasy: the wind can penetrate into spaces and reach
> combustibles I can't see or reach. Steam, if it works, avoids this issue.

Steam doesn't work real well on anything other than wallpaper and latex
paint. Tried a LOT of methods to make stripping lead paint faster. If
it's more than a couple coats heat works the best. The trick to using a
heat gun is simple, keep it moving, and don't heat at 90 degrees to the
surface. You want the gun aimed at about 30-45 degrees, With a GOOD
stiff scraper running right behind the heated area. There are a couple
attachments for better heat guns that help with that. They are scrapers
that attach to the barrel and peel the paint clean off.

If you keep the heat moving you have a VERY low chance of igniting
anything. The heat just isn't localized that well.

>
>> Since then, they've invented the paint stripper box, and they can be
>> rented. One example: http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/index.htm
>> Vids show that they work well, and I saw the guys on This Old House
>> use one. Tom Silva liked it. <g>
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/jubbzx4 another mfgr.
>>
> Radiant heaters seem a better idea than heat guns. No hot air penetration,
> so no risk of heating stuff I can't see. They are rather expensive: The
> first one you list goes for ~400$, the second at $125 is better but still
> a great deal more than $50 for a steamer from Lowes.
>
> Everybody shows Youtube videos of paint removal schemes working like magic.
> Trouble is, they're apt to be cooked demonstrations ;-) I'm looking for
> some "uncooked" experiences.

Well my FIL has been a painter for over 30 years, he's the guy who
wanted a faster method than hand scraping. He uses heat quite a bit now
with no problems.

>
> Thanks for replying!
>
> bob prohaska
>
>> --
>> Education is that which remains when one has
>> forgotten everything he learned in school.
>> --Albert Einstein

--
Steve W.

[bob prohaska]

Steve W. <csr...@notyahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Steam doesn't work real well on anything other than wallpaper and latex
> paint. Tried a LOT of methods to make stripping lead paint faster. If

That's the sort of experience I'm looking for. It contrasts sharply with:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJoaXgBRKa0
If my paint is like that in the video, steam seems like the way to go.
I can't help but wonder how many samples were auditioned before a star
was born 8-)

> it's more than a couple coats heat works the best. The trick to using a
> heat gun is simple, keep it moving, and don't heat at 90 degrees to the
> surface. You want the gun aimed at about 30-45 degrees, With a GOOD
> stiff scraper running right behind the heated area. There are a couple
> attachments for better heat guns that help with that. They are scrapers
> that attach to the barrel and peel the paint clean off.
>
> If you keep the heat moving you have a VERY low chance of igniting
> anything. The heat just isn't localized that well.

Ok, point taken.....

>
> Well my FIL has been a painter for over 30 years, he's the guy who
> wanted a faster method than hand scraping. He uses heat quite a bit now
> with no problems.
>

In my case speed isn't a huge issue; I'm not trying to make a living,
just avoid some expense. Being retired, cash out matters much more than
time in. Does 10 square feet per hour sound realistic for an amateur?

[Larry Jaques]

On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:37:23 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
<b...@www.zefox.net> wrote:

>Steve W. <csr...@notyahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Steam doesn't work real well on anything other than wallpaper and latex
>> paint. Tried a LOT of methods to make stripping lead paint faster. If
>
>That's the sort of experience I'm looking for. It contrasts sharply with:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJoaXgBRKa0
>If my paint is like that in the video, steam seems like the way to go.
>I can't help but wonder how many samples were auditioned before a star
>was born 8-)

It's a nice, clean removal, much like the heat gun, but it'll take you
a month of Sundays to get all that footage done.

I think the heat gun is 2-3x faster. Preheat a couple feet, then
focus an inch ahead of the scraper and start lifting paint.

Have fun, however you decide to do it.

[Ed Huntress]

On Wed, 04 May 2016 19:28:06 -0700, Larry Jaques
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:

>On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:37:23 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
><b...@www.zefox.net> wrote:
>
>>Steve W. <csr...@notyahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Steam doesn't work real well on anything other than wallpaper and latex
>>> paint. Tried a LOT of methods to make stripping lead paint faster. If
>>
>>That's the sort of experience I'm looking for. It contrasts sharply with:
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJoaXgBRKa0
>>If my paint is like that in the video, steam seems like the way to go.
>>I can't help but wonder how many samples were auditioned before a star
>>was born 8-)
>
>It's a nice, clean removal, much like the heat gun, but it'll take you
>a month of Sundays to get all that footage done.
>
>I think the heat gun is 2-3x faster. Preheat a couple feet, then
>focus an inch ahead of the scraper and start lifting paint.
>
>Have fun, however you decide to do it.

I have two heat guns, an old Red Devil radiant-heat paint stripper,
and a 92-year-old house sided with western red cedar -- the original
siding..

The radiant heater is two to three times as fast as the heat guns. You
develop a knack very quickly for not charring the wood, but keep a wet
rag handy while you're learning to use it.

Ten square feet per hour is pushing it, but you could do it if you
don't stop. Oil-based paint is much easier to strip. My house has
oil-based primer and latex paint, and that's also easy to strip.

--
Ed Huntress

[bob prohaska]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
> Ten square feet per hour is pushing it, but you could do it if you
> don't stop. Oil-based paint is much easier to strip. My house has
> oil-based primer and latex paint, and that's also easy to strip.
>

If that's pushing it for you, it's probably more than I can expect
of myself. I really should take off a sample and experiment.

It looks like I can remove the over-limit woodwork myself. There isn't
a great deal of it. I'm exempt, being the homeowner. The contractor can
remove the rest and get on with the job. He's exempt, because the lead
is below limits (one milligram per square centimeter). Once it's dismounted
it'll be a lot easier to work on, but from what I've learned so far the
work won't be easy. There's also some uncertainty whether the paint will
scrape off clean enough. Much as I dislike throwing away clear redwood,
the gamble is looking less and less worthwhile. The house is no histerial
landmark and I'm no curator of monuments.

Thanks to everyone, you've given me a stiff dose of pragmatism.....

bob prohaska