Salvage - Hydraulic Pump

[Bob La Londe]

I was just tearing down an old log splitter (I got it for $60) to use the
mechanic bits for a hydraulic press. The cylinder may be worth what I paid
for the whole thing. It may not. LOL. The control valve was leaking, but
when I started tearing it apart I found it was not leaking. There was a
cracked fitting. Ok. That's easy enough. Its not even cracked at the
valve. it was cracked (and broke off during disassembly) at the next fitting
a wrench may just take it out when I get to it. I spent a good half hour
cutting the cylinder out with water running on one side while I cut the
metal straps and braces on the other side with the torch. Hopefully I
didn't cook any seals.

Anyway, I got to the pump and it was one of the easiest components to
remove. I unscrewed the belt tension adjusting screw, and it slid right
out. Nice... until I started scraping the gunk and dirt off to finds that
they had used a steel drive pulley, and welded it directly to the shaft of
the pump. Sigh. Looks like its going to be the hardest part to repurpose.
The only thing I can think of is to find a way to clamp up the pulley on the
mill, and spiral mill the hub out hoping I have enough shaft left to be
useful when it finally comes free.

I'd just reuse the pulley, but its got a huge chunk out of one side. It
would eat belts.

The old Briggs gas motor was pretty rough. That's ok. I plan to use a
continuous duty electric motor on it anyway.

[Gunner Asch]

On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 18:03:22 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>
wrote:

Chuck the motor up on your mill..and turn the motor on, while using
the mill to cut off the pulley. Its not rocket science. Finish up
with a file and Bobs your uncle!!!


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[Bob La Londe]

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news:5c83tclmbo7b9ou13...@4ax.com...

***********

Well that would be great if I was salvaging the motor.

[Gunner Asch]

On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 10:26:03 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>

The motor drives the pump..right? The pulley on the pump is welded
on..right? Mill it off.

[Bob La Londe]

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

news:tq25tc9sutsukldn1...@4ax.com...

************

You talked about spinning it up. The pump is spun by the pulley that needs
to come off. LOL. I already said, "The only thing I can think of is to

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99> wrote in message
news:oqu430$j2j$1...@dont-email.me...

Does the pump spin if you run oil (or air) through it?
-jsw

[Gunner Asch]

On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 12:29:33 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>

Ah! Ok..I see where I went wrong. Indeed. Thats a tough one. One
could...I suppose...put a valve on the input/output lines, put the
pump in the vise, put it in the mill and then close the valve, mill
off some pulley, open the valve, turn the pump a bit, close and mill
and so forth. You would need a valve and a pair of hoses and simply
put the valve in between the input and output lines and fill the
hoses. Id probably clamp the shaft as well with something so the shaft
COULDNT move in case there was some leakage (and there probably is) in
the vanes.

You could do the same simply turning the shaft each time without the
valve and then finish up with a file. Not a particularly elegant
solution and it would take a half hour to actually machine off the
pulley. Where is the weld? On the far end or on the pump end of the
pully? If its on the far end..stand the pump up and machine off a
quarter inch of shaft and pulley..machine off the weld so to speak. If
its on both sides....doing the first thing I suggested is about your
only solution. Never give up...never ever never give up!! (Grin)

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 10:26:03 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>

run the hydraukic pump as a motor by applying hydraulkic
pressure/flow.

[Bob La Londe]

Well, I finally took it off yesterday. It was yesterday's project. The
pump was mounted to a plate. No big deal except the plate was under the
pulley. The plate was to big to mount in the vises I have on my mill table
(I do have larger vises) and
the pump hung down to low from the plate anyway.

I mounted up two pieces of 1/2 x 6" aluminum flat bar in the two vises on
the table. Then I placed the pump hanging down between them with the plate
it was mounted to resting on the aluminum flat bar.

Now here is where it started to get tricky. I slid the flat bar up against
the pump as firmly as possible, and tightene

d the vises on it. This limited the pumps ability to spin. Then using 2
sets of welding clamps I clamped the pump mounting plate to the aluminum
flat bar such that the spokes of the pulley rested up snug against them. A
third one acted as a stop against a third spoke. Then I programmed a simple
spiral drill routine (interpolated spiral milling) down to a depth of 3/4".
With a slow speed and a slow feed on conventional clockwise spiral milling I
began removing the weld. The feed and amount of movement of the pump pulley
was limited, but the feed and cut kept pushed it up against the welding
clamp stops as well. At about 0.6" deep I heard a snap and stopped the cut.
When I retracted the mill and brushed the chips and oil out of the pocket I
was was surprised to find that the mill was still in useable (for hack jobs)
if not perfect condition, and the snap was probably one of the bits of pins
and flotsam that had been wedge in the hole to fill the gap between the
pulley bore and the much smaller spline shaft coupler that was on the shaft.
I had completely cut off the weld and was able to pull the pulley off with a
puller and a wrench. Then there was the matter of the spline shaft coupler
that was on the pump shaft. It seemed to have one or two tiny bits of weld
melt on the back end, but I wasn't sure it was actually welded to the shaft.
I pressed it off with the hydraulic press and had a very dirty, but pristine
spline shaft remaining on the pump. As near as I can tell no weld actually
managed to penetrate the shaft at the top or the bottom. It seems that just
friction and crud were holding the spline coupler on the shaft. If it
wasn't for that huge gob of weld in the way I might have been able to just
pull the whole nasty mess with a puller.

For those of you with Facebook: Video and images:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/115502482321376/ Should still be near the
top. Just look for the video showing three sets of welding clamp handles
sticking towards you.




"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:oqs38t$690$1...@dont-email.me...

[Jim Wilkins]

"Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99> wrote in message
news:orgi5n$487$1...@dont-email.me...
> ...

> I pressed it off with the hydraulic press and had a very dirty, but
> pristine spline shaft remaining on the pump.

I spent a lot of time machining a spline broach to mount a pulley on a
salvaged splined shaft pump. When the die-cast pulley loosened after a
few years I bought the $100 keyed shaft pump I should have the first
time.

https://www.zoro.com/hub-city-precision-splined-hubs/g/00115002/?

-jsw

[Bob La Londe]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:orgona$ncj$1...@dont-email.me...

I'm having fun. Basically I'm turning a log splitter into a dual acting
hydraulic shop press. I've found spline shaft adapters. I'm probably going
to with with a direct drive 1750 RPM electric motor and an oldham style
coupler.

Sadly I found a nipple snapped off in the control valve. Hopefully removing
that won't be quite as big of an adventure.

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:31:28 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>
wrote:

Greetings Bob,
In case you are not familiar with them I would like to mention a tool
made for removing and tightening nipples. It can be found in the
plumbing section of practically any decent hardware store. The tool is
made from hex stock that has had one end turned and knurled with a
very coarse knurl. In the center of the knurled section a groove is
machined that holds a knurled cam. When the tool is inserted into a
piece of pipe and turned the cam grips the inside of the pipe. These
tools work very well and are cheap.
Eric

[Jim Wilkins]

<et...@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:o3untclscaolqdm6u...@4ax.com...

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-139-Internal-Wrenchs/dp/B00004T82B

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Called an inside pipe wrench.

[Bob La Londe]

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:orgu4b$rfo$1...@dont-email.me...

*************

Eric & Jim,

I like to think of myself as a tool guy. I have to be honest though.
While I have seen that tool before I didn't know what it was. Thank you.

Bob

[Larry Jaques]

On Tue, 10 Oct 2017 13:21:00 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>

So you're aware, there are some for PVC sprinkler heads, too. Lots of
those get knocked off so they made what looks like a long-handled
tapered reamer to remove the broken stub in the below-ground tee.
http://tinyurl.com/ycuxc4ps

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

[Bob La Londe]

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news:khgqtcp62dn3thp3m...@4ax.com...

***************

Well, I bought a set of the inside pipe wrenchs... and they didn't work.
Oh, they might have if there was a decent size stub of pipe left, but the
part broken off was only a few threads long, and the tool just didn't bite
in properly. So, I bought a set of ez-out style pipe stub removers and it
worked perfectly. About the same price. I had to gently set the remover
with a hammer, but then an adjustable wrench easily turned it out.

[Larry Jaques]

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 19:17:03 -0700, "Bob La Londe" <no...@none.com99>

So now you have both sets, for next time. This is A Good Thing(tm).

[Bob La Londe]

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

news:gfjhuc1crr04lie0j...@4ax.com...

****************

Yep. I thought the same thing. Best part is they don't cost much.