Correct Battery for Fowler Digital Caliper?

[Nicholas Carter]

I have a Fowler Digital Caliper that I bought from a retired
machinist. I took the battery to my local battery place and they gave
me one which worked - since replacing that battery after a year,
obviously I got the wrong one as it runs out of juice after about a
month. Did I bother to write down the battery number? Of course not.
Foolish me.
Anyway, I know Fred Fowler hangs out here, so I thought I would ask.
The Info:
Fowler Ultra Cal II
Sylvac
Swiss Made
Black and Silver Body, mm/in switch, 0 swith, (obviously no on/off
switch)
SN#DE91053 (on groove that depth rod slides in)
Appears to have SPC out.
TIA!

[Steve Offiler]

Nicholas Carter wrote in message <3b3ca9bc...@news.casco.net>...

Nick: in case Fred doesn't get around to answering right away, I
*think* you need a CR2032 battery. All of the Sylvac units I am
familiar with use this battery. They are quite common - just about
any drug store, camera store, Radio Shack, even some grocery stores
carry them.

Steve O.

[Don Foreman]

Mine uses a 357.

Please address email replies to:
dfor...@Ugoldengate.net
but omit the U. Apologies for any inconvenience.

[Fred Fowler]

On Sun, 01 Jul 2001 16:28:26 GMT, "Don Foreman"
<dfor...@Ugoldengate.net> scribed:

Yup,

For an Ultra-Cal II, it is a LM357 or SR44 button cell. Easily
available at any drugstore or Radio-Shack.

All have a nice 4th...

Fred

[Summer O'Fallon]

fel...@casco.net (Nicholas Carter) wrote in message news:<3b3ca9bc...@news.casco.net>...

I think you are looking for the Fowler # 54-100-350. If I'm not
mistaken all of the Ultra-Cals take the same battery. They cost about
$5.00 and any industrial distributer should have them

[jim rozen]

Fred Fowler wrote:

> For an Ultra-Cal II, it is a LM357 or SR44 button cell.

Darn. I sure wish we could get an authoritative answer here....

:^)

Jim

[Mike Nash]

These two cells are interchangeable.

Mike

[jim rozen]

[jim rozen]

Mike Nash wrote:

> These two cells are interchangeable.

It was a joke - Fred Fowler's company *makes* the instrument
in question. So he is the _ultimate_ authority!

Thus the smiley thing :^)

Jim

[Nicholas Carter]

Thanks to everyone! I replaced the battery with the 357/SR44 battery
and it seems to be working fine. The CR2032 battery was not the right
one, as it was much too large. Thanks especially to Fred Fowler for
monitoring this newsgroup and giving the definitive answer - I wish
more manufacturers would do this....

On Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:20:34 GMT, fel...@casco.net (Nicholas Carter)
wrote:

[Brian Lawson]

Co-incidence is just amazing. On Sunday, one of my Mitutoyo's
indicated a low battery signal, so I thought I'd get batteries for all
three older Mitutoyos. All say SR 44. My Fowler is brand new, so I
didn't even "look" at it. Anyway, the labels on the back of the
Mitutoyos said they use an "SR 44" type. I went to Radio Shack at
the mall. No listing. I went to the camera franchise across from RS
(Black's, for Canadian RCM'rs) and they gave me an Energizer # A76BP2
(2 per blister pack for just under 10 bucks) which the lady says
probably is the right one because it says it's a replacement for an LR
44, so it must be the same. They looked a little fat to me, but hey
-- I'm over 60 now, so what do I know?!?!

Anyway, so here comes this thread, and then Fred Fowlers reply, but I
can't tell from his reply whether he means it may take an SR 44 or it
may instead take an LM357. I assume he means either will fit, but I
can always make things harder than they are. So, I'm just ready to go
back to the camera store, but here comes Nicholas with the answer,
just in time. Boy oh boy, don't EVER knock co-incidence!!!

Thanks Fred and Nicholas!!

Brian Lawson
Windsor, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Wed, 04 Jul 2001 14:33:26 GMT, fel...@casco.net (Nicholas Carter)

[Catguy]

If an LR44 will work, these are very cheap on ebay. They are used in laser
pointers. I got 20 for about $5......Paul

"Brian Lawson" <law...@mnsi.net> wrote in message
news:3b443e5f...@cnews.newsguy.com...

[Dave Martindale]

law...@mnsi.net (Brian Lawson) writes:
>
>
>Co-incidence is just amazing. On Sunday, one of my Mitutoyo's
>indicated a low battery signal, so I thought I'd get batteries for all
>three older Mitutoyos. All say SR 44. My Fowler is brand new, so I
>didn't even "look" at it. Anyway, the labels on the back of the
>Mitutoyos said they use an "SR 44" type. I went to Radio Shack at
>the mall. No listing. I went to the camera franchise across from RS
>(Black's, for Canadian RCM'rs) and they gave me an Energizer # A76BP2
>(2 per blister pack for just under 10 bucks) which the lady says
>probably is the right one because it says it's a replacement for an LR
>44, so it must be the same. They looked a little fat to me, but hey
>-- I'm over 60 now, so what do I know?!?!

The LR44 and SR44 are actually different chemistries in the same size
package. LR44 is an alkaline cell, just like the larger AAs you are
familiar with. The SR44 is silver oxide. A SR44 will provide
considerably more total power over its lifetime, but it also costs
something like twice as much as the LR44. The SR44 also provides
a more stable voltage through its life, and works better at low temperature.

Most devices aren't terribly fussy about the voltage, so if you want
the cheapest operating cost per hour of operation, use LR44. On the
other hand, if your time is worth a lot, use SR44 to maximize time
between changes. And SR44s are also worthwhile in things like cameras
that have to operate when it's cold.

The 357 is a SR44 equivalent, I think.

Dave

[Brian Lawson]

OK. thanks Dave,
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

[Bob Powell]

"Dave Martindale" <da...@cs.ubc.ca> wrote in message
news:9i0lbn$nki$1...@lily.cs.ubc.ca...

I will add to that excellent information that some high-current devices
simply will not work, or not work reliably, with the alkaline cells i.e. the
LR44. Doesn't necessarily have to be a high-power device, just something
that has a high peak current that the alkaline can't provide. No idea if
that applies to any shop measuring tools.

[PLAlbrecht]

Found a chart of various batteries.

http://www.tic-toc.co.uk/chart.htm

Pete

[Brian Lawson]

Hey Pete,

Thank You! It's now hanging on the wall ready for the next time!

Brian Lawson
Windsor, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

[Fred Fowler III]

On Wed, 04 Jul 2001 14:33:26 GMT, fel...@casco.net (Nicholas Carter)

scribed:

No problem Nick. I check in here about every week or so, but if anyone
has any quick-need questions on Fowler products, you can email me
directly at fr...@fvfowler.com or our tech support team at
te...@fvfowler.com.

Our digital stuff only takes 2 types of batteries, CR2032 wafer (~.75"
dia x .100" thick) or LM357/SR44 button type (~.300."dia x
.200"thick) Depends on the model, but it is pretty apparent which
tools take which, as the size is pretty different.

Btw, I have since posted the battery question in our websites
"tech-tips" area. It does get asked a lot... Maybe I should put it in
the faq too. The web address is www.fvfowler.com. Just did a major
site re-vamp... Let me know what you think.

Best,

Fred III

Fowler Tools & Instruments
fr...@fvfowler.com
www.fvfowler.com

[Fred Fowler III]

On Thu, 05 Jul 2001 05:05:06 GMT, "Bob Powell" <bo...@dogpatch.com>
scribed:

It is not surprising you mention the differences between the
batteries. While the same package size, the LR series is not the
correct unit for most measuring tools. We often get people that call
us complaining about short battery life, dim displays, running numbers
etc... In a good amount of cases they have substituted the LR for the
SR series battery.

The capacitive measuring system which most digital calipers, mics,
indicators use have certain voltage/amp requirements to operate
efficiently. Using a different power cell can dramatically change the
operation of the tool, especially in the case of "keep-alive"
instruments such as MTI's "Absolute" system.

It is also good to know that using a battery which is not recommended
by the manufacturer can also void the instrument warranty. Always try
to use the correct one. Paying a buck or so more for the right battery
will give you better results and prolong the life of your measuring
instrument.

Best,

Fred III

[migl...@gmail.com]

I have the same Caliper. However, it will not shut off. The battery dies in about a month sometimes sooner. I also use the 357 and have used the 33 and SR44. They all die the same way.
Is this model defective?

[Tom Gardner]

<migl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9d1edbdf-465a-433c...@googlegroups.com...

Just buy batteries by the hundreds on ebay like I do.

[mike]

On 12/11/2012 8:59 AM, migl...@gmail.com wrote

> I have the same Caliper. However, it will not shut off. The battery dies in about a month sometimes sooner. I also use the 357 and have used the 33 and SR44. They all die the same way.
> Is this model defective?
>
>
>

I bought two of the harbor freight Chinese units when they were on sale.
Batteries run down quickly. Measured 13uA whether on or off.
I also have a Mitutoyo from japan that looks identical. Never measured
the current cuz it never ran down. Been two years that I've had it
and it was used when I got it.

Others report similar results.
So, the answer is Yes, that model is defective. But the one you have is
probably no worse than any other.

I just leave the battery out if I'm not using it. The price was
certainly right.

[Michael A. Terrell]

Or at a decent flea market. I picked up two cards of 10 LR44 for a
buck each, and no waiting for a slow boat from China.

[Steve W.]

Or hit your local dollar tree. The local stores carry these, 2032
Lithium and others. And they are actually decent batteries in the
packaging. The 2032s I have are Panasonic and Duracell. The SR44s are
mostly Sunbeam. I added a small switch to my caliper because of the
voltage draw. The draw is due to the fact that the only thing the switch
actually turns of is the display power.

The LR44 comes in an 8 or 10 pack. The 2032s are 2/3/4 packs depending
on the shipment.

Somewhere online I saw an explanation of the contacts below the upper
cover. That is where I installed the switch after I insulated the contacts.


--
Steve W.

[Gunner]

On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 21:46:21 -0500, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wrote:

I make a particular point to stay AWAY from Sunbeam batteries, after
having 2 bricks of AAs start leaking while in storage.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

[Michael A. Terrell]

I haven't seen 2032 in a Dollar Tree store in years. The local ones
are out of the LR44 quite often around here. I've had to buy a cheap LED
light with three cells to get LR44 at times. I don't remember ever
seeing any Duracell at Dollar tree, and the only Panasonic were AAA, AA,
C & D Carbon-Zinc cells. All of the coin/button cells were Sunbeam,
including the last pack of eight AG13/LR44/A76 I got there, and they
were already three months past the 'Use By' date. They used to be ten
for a buck at Dollar tree.

[Tom Gardner]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5sSdna-rR6DbQlrN...@earthlink.com...

The last batch I bought were "Maxell", they cost a bit more but no DOA's and
they last a good long time.

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 08:48:24 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:

>nes
>are out of the LR44 quite often around here. I've had to buy a cheap LED
>light with three cells to get LR44 at times. I don't remember ever
>seeing any Duracell at Dollar tree, and the only Panasonic were AAA, AA,
>C & D Carbon-Zinc cells. All of the coin/button cells were Sunbeam,
>including the last pack of eight AG13/LR44/A76 I got there, and they
>were already three months past the 'Use By' date. They used to be ten
>for a buck at Dollar tree.

Genuine Panasonic CR2032s are less than $2.50 for 10 at Digikey. 22
cents each if you buy 100.

Only problem is that the regulations about lithium batteries cover
even those little cells. A single button cell on the order condemns
the entire order to ground shipping (unless you specify otherwise and
pay extra).

Meanwhile, unscrupulous sellers in Asia are marking dangerous
knock-off notebook batteries as "chargers" and dropping them in the
airmail. It's only a matter of time before an aircraft is brought
down.

[grmi...@rogers.com]

On Wed, 12 Dec 2012 00:26:18 -0800, Gunner <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 21:46:21 -0500, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
>wr

>>Somewhere online I saw an explanation of the contacts below the upper
>>cover. That is where I installed the switch after I insulated the contacts.
>
>I make a particular point to stay AWAY from Sunbeam batteries, after
>having 2 bricks of AAs start leaking while in storage.
>
>Gunner
>

I opened up a mini mag yesterday to find the Aug. 2012 expiry
duracells were stuck in place. Got them out with a bit of effort so no
problem. Only one had leaked.
---

Gerry :-)}
London,Canada

[jake.o...@gmail.com]

Why does it stay on all the time and blink? Shouldn't it be should when your making measurements? And turn of when not in use?

[Gonadicus]

On 22/08/2013 4:28 PM, jake.o...@gmail.com wrote:
> Why does it stay on all the time and blink? Shouldn't it be should when your making measurements? And turn of when not in use?
>
>

Don't know Fowler, my cheap digital calipers blink when the battery is low.

[DoN. Nichols]

On 2013-08-22, jake.o...@gmail.com <jake.o...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Why does it stay on all the time and blink? Shouldn't it be should
> when your making measurements? And turn of when not in use?

I've seen some which blink when the battery (actually, cell) is
low and in need of replacement.

And your question of the correct battery (cell) for the Fowler
is only in the "Subject: " header line line, and easy to miss when
reading the body of the article. I don't know about the Fowler ones
(especially since they have had several designs over the years), but
most these days will work fine with the SR-357 or the SR-44 (Silver
Oxide cells -- not the other cells with the '44' or '357' numbers which
are the same size, but are Alkaline cells and don't last nearly as long.

The calipers never turn fully off, BTW. The "OFF" button, if
present, only turns off the display, leaving the scale reading circuits
active, so you can turn it back on and not have to zero it (well ...
depends on which model whether they do that or not -- some zero when you
hit the "ON" button. And -- this applies to almost all models. The
only exception that I know of was the one sold by Brown & Sharpe way
back when, which used a pair of LEDs driving an optical encoder, and
those killed the cells (four PX-13 -- mercury cells, now made of
unobtanium). :-)

I've got an old Starrett one which likes to eat cells (two
CR2032 cells IIRC), but you can slide the holder about an eight of an
inch to disconnect the cells when you are not using it, and this gives a
lot longer life -- at the cost of having to re-zero every time you pick
them up and turn them on. :-)

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

[sirgo...@gmail.com]

在 2001年6月29日星期五 UTC-7上午9:21:14，Nicholas Carter写道：

> I have a Fowler Digital Caliper that I bought from a retired
> machinist. I took the battery to my local battery place and they gave
> me one which worked - since replacing that battery after a year,
> obviously I got the wrong one as it runs out of juice after about a
> month. Did I bother to write down the battery number? Of course not.
> Foolish me.
> Anyway, I know Fred Fowler hangs out here, so I thought I would ask.
> The Info:
> Fowler Ultra Cal II
> Sylvac
> Swiss Made
> Black and Silver Body, mm/in switch, 0 swith, (obviously no on/off
> switch)
> SN#DE91053 (on groove that depth rod slides in)
> Appears to have SPC out.
> TIA!

Hi! Can someone please tell me how to turn off a Fowler Ultra Cal II gauge? Thanks!

[Jim Wilkins]

<sirgo...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6ed5015c-38ca-484a...@googlegroups.com...
? 2001?6?29???? UTC-7??9:21:14,Nicholas Carter??:

For an Ultra Cal III, the battery is a CR2032 and the SET button under
the III turns it off when pressed for >2 seconds.

-jsw

[howard_...@hotmail.com]

On Friday, June 29, 2001 at 12:20:34 PM UTC-4, Nicholas Carter wrote:
> I have a Fowler Digital Caliper that I bought from a retired
> machinist. I took the battery to my local battery place and they gave
> me one which worked - since replacing that battery after a year,
> obviously I got the wrong one as it runs out of juice after about a
> month. Did I bother to write down the battery number? Of course not.
> Foolish me.
> Anyway, I know Fred Fowler hangs out here, so I thought I would ask.
> The Info:
> Fowler Ultra Cal II
> Sylvac
> Swiss Made
> Black and Silver Body, mm/in switch, 0 swith, (obviously no on/off
> switch)
> SN#DE91053 (on groove that depth rod slides in)
> Appears to have SPC out.
> TIA!

If it is the same as mine the battery no is CR2032.

[Gunner Asch]

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 07:08:41 -0700 (PDT), howard_...@hotmail.com
wrote:

It should be noted that many of the early digital calipers had NO
on/off feature...and they would run down the batteries in a rather
short time. Some of the more recent chinese calipers do exactly the
same as well..though take longer to run the battery down. Most of tem
simply turn off the display..and leave the internal circutry alive.
Im pretty sure I have at least 2 Fowlers also..both kill batteries
within a couple months...

https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Metrology

My working caliper is a Tesa..and it will run about 18 months before
replacement of battery is needed. Keep in mind that there are two
kinds of batteries possible for digital calipers...Silver Oxide and
Alkaline. Most calipers/mics are designed for Silver Oxide
batts..and while they will run on alkalines...will not last nearly as
long as the silver batteries

Typically SR44 batteries...silver..will outlast the alkaline LR44
batteries by an order of magnitude. I buy my replacements on
Ebay..and have learned to be VERY careful..as many sold as SR44s..are
shipped and you will find them to be the inferior LR44s. So read the
ads carefully!! And look at the pictures closely!!

Its become something of an issue..and the better sellers will clearly
state that they are shipping true SR44s.

Here is an example of the "bad" seller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-NEW-LR44-MAXELL-A76-L1154-AG13-357-SR44-303-BATTERY-/251379905898
(Alkaline)

and a good seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-10-357-303-Batteries-SR44SW-SR44W-LR44-Silver-Oxide-Watch-Batterie-/221438806957
(silver oxide)

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[Gunner Asch]

On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 10:46:14 -0700, Gunner Asch <gunne...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Oh! Date your packages of batteries when they arrive!! Rotate them
as there is indeed a shelf life on batteries. And note that the
better sellers will guarentee them for a number of years

"These Batteries are Factory Fresh and have at least a three (3) year
shelf life from date of purchase."

And so forth. I bought a couple dozen once..and they sat on the shelf
for 8 yrs before I used them up....and the last few didnt last very
long...months actually.

(Grin)..so I keep a set of mechanical "digitals" calibrated and within
reach.."just in case" (Smile)

Mark

[mike]

I have several Harbor Freight calipers I bought when they were <$7.
They all run the battery down in a month or so.
Do the math. 13uA current drain on or off. 35maH battery.
Works out to be about 3 months if you could use all the capacity.
Depending on the cutoff voltage of the tool and the way they
measure the capacity, it could be much shorter.
I take the battery out when not in use.

Bought a used Mitutoyo CD-6"C.
Don't know how long the battery lasts. Was working when I got it.
Still working fine after 3 years.

[Steve W.]

I have added switches that actually shut the battery down in the HF
units. You flick the switch, make sure they are closed, zero them and
you're GTG. When done flick the switch off.

Basically requires you to open them, cut the positive battery trace,
Solder in some fine wires and hot glue the switch under the data cover.
Then notch the cover to access the switch.
--
Steve W.

[mike]

Got pictures?

[DoN. Nichols]

On 2016-06-20, Gunner Asch <gunne...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 07:08:41 -0700 (PDT), howard_...@hotmail.com
> wrote:
>
>>On Friday, June 29, 2001 at 12:20:34 PM UTC-4, Nicholas Carter wrote:
>>> I have a Fowler Digital Caliper that I bought from a retired
>>> machinist. I took the battery to my local battery place and they gave
>>> me one which worked - since replacing that battery after a year,
>>> obviously I got the wrong one as it runs out of juice after about a
>>> month.

>>If it is the same as mine the battery no is CR2032.
>
> It should be noted that many of the early digital calipers had NO
> on/off feature...and they would run down the batteries in a rather
> short time. Some of the more recent chinese calipers do exactly the
> same as well..though take longer to run the battery down. Most of tem
> simply turn off the display..and leave the internal circutry alive.
> Im pretty sure I have at least 2 Fowlers also..both kill batteries
> within a couple months...
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/104042282269066802602/Metrology

If you want ones which are very repeatable, but which kill cells
where it hurts -- look a the old B&S ones (likely really made by TESA).
They had a glass scale down the bottom of the depth rod, which is why
they are so repeatable -- but they use four PX-13 cells -- mercury
cells now made of unobtainium -- at least in the USA. People are so
scared of mercury these days. :-)

The cells did not last very long anyway -- so I was in the habit
of popping the battery holder off when not using them. Unlike a lot of
recent ones, they did not remember their zero point when turned "off"
anyway.

The good ones, like my Mitutoyou ones, do remember the zero
while "off" -- but the good SR-357 cells last about six months at best.
I had a Starrett which used two CR2032 cells which had an advantage
there. The battery holder was dovetailed in, and if you slid it about
1/8" it would disconnect the back of the cells from a pin. So I would
*really* turn it off by sliding the pack -- and live with resetting zero
when I turned it back on.

> My working caliper is a Tesa..and it will run about 18 months before
> replacement of battery is needed.

Much newer than the B&S (likely Tesa) ones which I have.

> Keep in mind that there are two
> kinds of batteries possible for digital calipers...Silver Oxide and
> Alkaline. Most calipers/mics are designed for Silver Oxide
> batts..and while they will run on alkalines...will not last nearly as
> long as the silver batteries

Indeed so.

> Typically SR44 batteries...silver..will outlast the alkaline LR44
> batteries by an order of magnitude. I buy my replacements on
> Ebay..and have learned to be VERY careful..as many sold as SR44s..are
> shipped and you will find them to be the inferior LR44s. So read the
> ads carefully!! And look at the pictures closely!!

The intersting thing is that there are two series which work
well in the micrometers and calipers -- the 44 and the 357 ones -- both
magnum calibers. :-) But yes -- look for "SR", not "LR" -- or check that
the packaging explicitly says "silver cell".

> Its become something of an issue..and the better sellers will clearly
> state that they are shipping true SR44s.
>
> Here is an example of the "bad" seller
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-NEW-LR44-MAXELL-A76-L1154-AG13-357-SR44-303-BATTERY-/251379905898
> (Alkaline)

Well ... he is selling the bad cells -- but he is quite clear
that they are LR44 and Alkaline cells. Even the banner at the top of
the web browser window says "LR44 Alkaline", though the URL includes
"SR44" and "357" (along with other cell types which fit), so if you are
looking for one of those, his page will show up.

He also says:

======================================================================
YOU?RE BUYING
20 PC NEW FRESH GENUINE MAXELL LR44
ALKALINE 1.5 VOLT BATTERIES
IN A BLISTER PACK
MADE BY HITACHI MAXELL LTD
======================================================================

In big print, so if you read, you know what you are getting.

and the photo of the packaging also makes it clear that they are LR44
cells. So -- if you want "cheap" -- say you are selling things which
need cells to demonstrate, but you don't care how long they run, then
this makes sense.

> and a good seller
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack-of-10-357-303-Batteries-SR44SW-SR44W-LR44-Silver-Oxide-Watch-Batterie-/221438806957
> (silver oxide)

Note that in his URL (and description string) he also lists
LR44 as one of the cells it replaces -- again so a search for either
type will find him -- and he depends on the purchaser to realize that
his cells will cost more and last longer. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN

[Gunner Asch]

On 21 Jun 2016 04:21:58 GMT, "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com>
wrote:

Having the big photos with "silver oxide" plainly marked on the
labels sorta helps too... (Grin)
>
> Enjoy,
> DoN

[marsol...@gmail.com]

On Friday, June 29, 2001 at 11:20:34 AM UTC-5, Nicholas Carter wrote:
> I have a Fowler Digital Caliper that I bought from a retired
> machinist. I took the battery to my local battery place and they gave
> me one which worked - since replacing that battery after a year,
> obviously I got the wrong one as it runs out of juice after about a

> month. Did I bother to write down the battery number? Of course not.
> Foolish me.
> Anyway, I know Fred Fowler hangs out here, so I thought I would ask.
> The Info:
> Fowler Ultra Cal II
> Sylvac
> Swiss Made
> Black and Silver Body, mm/in switch, 0 swith, (obviously no on/off
> switch)
> SN#DE91053 (on groove that depth rod slides in)
> Appears to have SPC out.
> TIA!

If I am not going to use my dig cal for a while, I simply remove the battery until need it. Lasted over 5 years.