Parts washer solvent options (and then disposal of used solvent)

[ari...@c3net.net]

As a hobbiest, I do not have the same option such as a service that
changes out the parts washer solvent. I have a 20 gal parts washer
with with a electric pump and sprayer. In the past I have used paint
thinner as the solvent. A local paint supply store sold the thinner
in bulk (at $2/gal, the price was right) and the evaporation was not
too fast. Now I have to buy the paint thinner at retail.

At the other end, disposing of the dirty solvent poses a problem for
me. Lately, I have been thinking that if my solvent were say
kerosene or diesel (an oil) maybe I could dispose of the dirty solvent
with the used oil that my local autoparts accept for free. I do not
want to be the person that "contaminates" the used oil bin.

I have also been thinking of adding an engine oil filter between the
pump and the sprayer, not sure that the pump has enough power to push
the solvent thru a filter. If it works, I might not need to change
the solvent for many years.

I know that there are water based solvents (Simple Green, etc) out
there. Question is, how does one dispose of the water based solvent
- I could flush it down the sanitary sewer - but does that not cause
potential issues at the water treatment plant (I presume that there is
still oil in the water emulsion)?

What do you do? WHat do you suggest?

[Randy]

I do have a filter on my PW. Just use a racing style remote filter
mount. They clog easy, as the pump will push through a clean filter
but it dies out fast as it gets dirty.

I use Hertitage Crytal Clean to service mine, much cheaper than Safety
Kleen. They have a "top off" service, if it's not dirty they just
add a little solvent to top it off back to the full line and leave,
Still cots about $50.00 but its less than the $140 for a full change
out.

As far as I know the water/soap types must be heated to work well.
Contact your local sewer authority and ask them, I know mine does not
like heavy metals or copper in the waste water.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

[RBnDFW]

Randy wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:04:48 -0800 (PST), ari...@c3net.net wrote:
>
>> As a hobbiest, I do not have the same option such as a service that
>> changes out the parts washer solvent. I have a 20 gal parts washer
>> with with a electric pump and sprayer. In the past I have used paint
>> thinner as the solvent. A local paint supply store sold the thinner
>> in bulk (at $2/gal, the price was right) and the evaporation was not
>> too fast. Now I have to buy the paint thinner at retail.
>>
>> At the other end, disposing of the dirty solvent poses a problem for
>> me. Lately, I have been thinking that if my solvent were say
>> kerosene or diesel (an oil) maybe I could dispose of the dirty solvent
>> with the used oil that my local autoparts accept for free. I do not
>> want to be the person that "contaminates" the used oil bin.
>>
>> I have also been thinking of adding an engine oil filter between the
>> pump and the sprayer, not sure that the pump has enough power to push
>> the solvent thru a filter. If it works, I might not need to change
>> the solvent for many years.

My primary parts cleaner is a 55-gallon drum. It has a false floor about
12 inches down. Another 12 inches down is the pump.
I use kerosene or diesel oil.
The bottom 10-12" is water. The idea is that the heavier particles
settle into the water and keeps the solvent cleaner. Seems to work.

> As far as I know the water/soap types must be heated to work well.

If you have one of the Chinese units with a flat bottom, a magnetic
engine heater is perfect for that.

[Randy]

On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:02:37 -0600, RBnDFW <burkh...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Randy wrote:
>> On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:04:48 -0800 (PST), ari...@c3net.net wrote:
>>
>>> As a hobbiest, I do not have the same option such as a service that
>>> changes out the parts washer solvent. I have a 20 gal parts washer
>>> with with a electric pump and sprayer. In the past I have used paint
>>> thinner as the solvent. A local paint supply store sold the thinner
>>> in bulk (at $2/gal, the price was right) and the evaporation was not
>>> too fast. Now I have to buy the paint thinner at retail.
>>>
>>> At the other end, disposing of the dirty solvent poses a problem for
>>> me. Lately, I have been thinking that if my solvent were say
>>> kerosene or diesel (an oil) maybe I could dispose of the dirty solvent
>>> with the used oil that my local autoparts accept for free. I do not
>>> want to be the person that "contaminates" the used oil bin.
>>>
>>> I have also been thinking of adding an engine oil filter between the
>>> pump and the sprayer, not sure that the pump has enough power to push
>>> the solvent thru a filter. If it works, I might not need to change
>>> the solvent for many years.
>
>My primary parts cleaner is a 55-gallon drum. It has a false floor about
>12 inches down. Another 12 inches down is the pump.
>I use kerosene or diesel oil.
>The bottom 10-12" is water. The idea is that the heavier particles
>settle into the water and keeps the solvent cleaner. Seems to work.
>

Be cafeful if the bottom of the drum rusts through.

[ari...@c3net.net]

>
> My primary parts cleaner is a 55-gallon drum. It has a false floor about
> 12 inches down. Another 12 inches down is the pump.
> I use kerosene or diesel oil.
> The bottom 10-12" is water. The idea is that the heavier particles
> settle into the water and keeps the solvent cleaner. Seems to work.
>
> > As far as I know the water/soap types must be heated to work well.
>
> If you have one of the Chinese units with a flat bottom, a magnetic
> engine heater is perfect for that.

Have you found need of disposing of the solvent? If so, where to you
off load the kero or diesel? This to me is the biggest issue.

My parts washer is infact of of the chinese units. I have a brick
under the legs opposite of the pump end and then a couple more bricks
inside of the tank to reduce the volume

The idea of needing to heat up the water based cleaner does not appeal
to me - I do not use the parts washer frequently and consequently
would not want to keep it heated up, on the other hand when I want to
use it, I would not want to have to wait for the solution to heat up.

[RBnDFW]

ari...@c3net.net wrote:
>> My primary parts cleaner is a 55-gallon drum. It has a false floor about
>> 12 inches down. Another 12 inches down is the pump.
>> I use kerosene or diesel oil.
>> The bottom 10-12" is water. The idea is that the heavier particles
>> settle into the water and keeps the solvent cleaner. Seems to work.
>>
>>> As far as I know the water/soap types must be heated to work well.
>> If you have one of the Chinese units with a flat bottom, a magnetic
>> engine heater is perfect for that.
>
> Have you found need of disposing of the solvent? If so, where to you
> off load the kero or diesel? This to me is the biggest issue.

No, I am still using the same solvent, replenished periodically with
fresh. I expect when I need to

> The idea of needing to heat up the water based cleaner does not appeal
> to me - I do not use the parts washer frequently and consequently
> would not want to keep it heated up, on the other hand when I want to
> use it, I would not want to have to wait for the solution to heat up.

I'm not certain that's essential. Simple Green and Super Clean (purple
cleaner) work just fine when cold, or at least room temp.
You do need to be aware those both will eat up aluminum if not rinsed
immediately after cleaning.

[theb...@bogleseeds.ca]

Your local Hasardous Waste Collection Site should take spent Solvent. Safety Kleen may be more pricey but is much healthier on your hands. Varsol can eat away at your liver so isn't best choice. Diesel is Ok but smelly/oily and does not work as well. Filters will remove particles but not the hasardous materials. The older and more used solvent, the worse it gets. Water based products should not be used on precision parts...rust is possible on these parts if not completely dried.

[rangerssuck]

Realizing this is an eight year old thread, I just want to say that 40 or so years ago, I had a small motorcycle shop. I used Safety Kleen and it was pretty cheap. The guy would come weekly, pick up the dirty drum and drop off a clean one. It was something of a luxury to always have clean solvent and again, it wasn't even close to being expensive. Of course, that was then...

[Clare Snyder]

I've always had the "safety kleen" solution when at m,y place of
work.

I've also used old solvent type parts cleaning fluid as an accellerant
to burn trash in the past. basically de-odorized Kerosene - or
"parafin"

[rangerssuck]

Don't know whether it's still true, but back then, they told me that Safety Kleen was made from out of date jet fuel. That gave it a certain "coolness" factor.

[David Lesher]

rangerssuck <range...@gmail.com> writes:


>Don't know whether it's still true, but back then, they told me that Safety=
> Kleen was made from out of date jet fuel. That gave it a certain "coolness=
>" factor.

Jet A is ultra-pure Kerosene, nothing more.

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[rangerssuck]

Not exactly, there are additives: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_fuel

And it does degrade over time: http://www.intertek.com/petroleum/testing/jet-fuel/storage-degradation/

Anyhow, this was something told to me by The Safety Kleen sales guy who may have been full of it.

[Gunner Asch]

On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:52:04 -0800 (PST), theb...@bogleseeds.ca
wrote:

Water based products work very well..as long as you monitor your
water/solvent properly and keep the ratios good

https://www.google.com/search?q=water+based+solvents&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

I cant be specific....I work in California and anything other than
water distilled by passing it through the sleeves of Communist
Propagandists is illegal to use.


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