garage door lubricant

[Dicker]

What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

--
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[Neville M. Wiles]

On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?

https://www.google.com/search?q=garage+door+roller+lubricant&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

[Steve W.]

Dicker wrote:
> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers
>

Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray

Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.

--
Steve W.

[Ed Huntress]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W." <csr...@NOTyahoo.com>
wrote:

Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38 years. They're
still going strong.

I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is left
over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.

--
Ed Huntress

[Doug Miller]

Dicker <0f8503901d844703ee...@example.com> wrote in news:2bafc
$5579989a$43de0cc0$11...@news.flashnewsgroups.com:

> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=What+is+a+good+lubricant+for+garage+door+rollers

[Cydrome Leader]

Dicker <0f8503901d844703ee...@example.com> wrote:
> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Cydrome Leader <pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> fired this volley in news:mlcav8
$1t9$1...@reader1.panix.com:

> boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.

Yep... then top that off with LOTS of dry graphite, to keep everything
moving smoothly. 'Bout a 1/2-oz per foot of roller channel works well.

[mog...@hotmail.com]

Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.

[Ed Huntress]

I didn't say "used." I said "left-over," as in the drips that are left
in the bottom of a can of oil when you change the oil in your car or
lawn mower.

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
varnish.

--
Ed Huntress

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in
news:ircjnaha3lup03eq9...@4ax.com:

> And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
> real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
> the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
> varnish.

REALLY? And then all that graphite would turn it into BLACK varnish?

Wow! What an amazing factoid!

<face-palm action>

[Terry Coombs]

ROTFLMAO

--
Snag

[Jim Wilkins]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:ircjnaha3lup03eq9...@4ax.com...

Eventually it hardens into Linoleum.

[Ed Huntress]

Yup. Black paint, as any handyman over 60 ought to know.

Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
'Makes good paint.

And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
dries in a month or so.

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

Which makes me wonder if these guys are trying to give Dicker the
shaft. Not nice.

--
Ed Huntress
>
>

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in

news:dldjnatrd8f35jout...@4ax.com:

> And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
> dries in a month or so.

Not if it's PROPERLY "boiled". You must've done them with commercial
'boiled linseed oil', which is not cooked, just prepared with chemical
dryers to eventually sequester all the fats. In the long view, it's
terrible stuff which stays sticky for a LONG time.

Proper old-school cooked, skimmed, strained linseed oil, on exposure to
the oxygen in the air, polymerizes perfectly in about a week. In order
to do that, ALL the fats have to be cooked out and mechanically removed.

And, if you pre-treat the wood with a potassium permanganate solution
(and clean it again) to accelerate the normal slow oxidation process of
the wood's own resins, you'll get a "years old" patina in about two
months.

I've done a whole bunch of that, building period reproduction furniture.

L

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 6/11/2015 12:03 PM, mog...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It shouldn't be used for anything else.
>

How about as a release agent on concrete forms? [rhetorical]

[amdx]

I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
All I can add is, my wife's comment.

"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"

All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)

Mikek

[Ed Huntress]

The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. <g>

If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
until it doesn't."

Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...

--
Ed Huntress

[Cydrome Leader]

Give them a little more credit than that.

the stuff is in a spray can, so they get points for ease of application vs
the complete garbage plastic oilers that 3 in 1 comes in now. All those
things do it drip oil everwhere but where you need it.

I botched up a screw drive garage door opener with a lube that well, was a
bit too thick. Took a while to clean all the crap off and apply the right
oil or lube it needed. Whoops.

[Ed Huntress]

What did you apply, 30-weight? <g>

Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
special applications.

I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
oil.

--
Ed Huntress

[Cydrome Leader]

not sure what it was, but it seemed like the right choice at the time.

> Some years ago I had an interesting conversation with the VP of
> industrial lubricants at Exxon-Mobil. I think I reported it here. It
> helped get me down to earth regarding lubricants, additives, and
> special applications.
>
> I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
> oil.

So is some vinegar. The additives do make a difference, and I do agree
that there are too many types of lubricants to even shake a stick at these
days, all of which claim to be the best thing ever created. The
differences while subtle do exist and for the case of a garage door
rollers anything would probably work fine in the end. Other applications
could be fussier.

I do keep over a dozen types of oils and greases around for various
things. Each have their purpose, for instance the Cameron drill press,
scissors and old camera shutters only get Nyoil, which is just fancy pure
mineral oil. I never add teflon filled oils to motor bearings, locks get
graphite and so forth, super lube for general purpose use blah blah. No
doubt everybody has their favorites as well. Bike people get real crazy
about chain lubricants.

[dca...@krl.org]

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
>
>
> I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
> oil.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress

I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon oil? And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made with jojoba oil.

Dan

[Ed Huntress]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:16:25 -0700 (PDT), "dca...@krl.org"
<dca...@krl.org> wrote:

>On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 6:58:19 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
>>
>>
>> I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
>> oil.
>>
>> --
>> Ed Huntress
>
>I am not too sure about that statement. Does that include silicon oil?

I don't know, but I doubt it. Silicone is a whole other kettle of
fish. I was speaking of motor oils.

> And how about the oil for use with 410a refrigerant? And then there is the oil with iodine in it. And the transmission oil made with jojoba oil.

Again, I was speaking of motor oils.

--
Ed Huntress

>
> Dan

[Ed Huntress]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:50:52 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

Yeah. The basic point was that synthetic motor oils, which are derived
from petroleum oils -- cracked into components and then re-combined in
a controlled way-- are much more lubricious than conventional
petroleum oils. Beyond that, the differences between motor oils and
machine oils are not commonly understood.

You know that grease is just oil with metallic soaps in it to make it
thick and pasty. You may know that the true weight of multi-viscosity
oils actually is the lower value: 10W-40 actually is 10-weight oil.
The additives that give it the multi-vis property really don't alter
the viscosity of the oil. Those additives actually are polymers that
swell up when they're heated. What they do is increase the gap between
journals and bearings *as if* the oil was thicker. The polymers just
swell with heat and keep the gap open.

Most of the additives in motor oil have no effect on the oil's
properties for other uses. Anti-foam, rust protection, and anti-acid
(anti-corrosion) components do almost nothing until they're activated.
The detergents and dispersants only come into play in *closed*
lubricating systems, where the oil it recycled through the machine. In
a plain-spindle-bearing lathe, which is a "total loss" lubricating
system, they have no noticeable affect. In a system that recycles, you
can use motor oil as long as you change the oil when it gets dirty.
The lubricating effects won't change. The additives won't do any
damage. You can have a problem if you've used non-detergent oil in a
machine or engine for years and then switch to deterget oil, because
the semi-jelled glorp can come off in lumps big enough and hard enough
to block oil passages.

All of this came up, and prompted me to call Exxon-Mobil, from a
comment by former member Jim Rozen that he had switched his company's
South Bend plain-bearing 10L lathe to Mobil 1 motor oil - 0W-20, I
think. He said the spindle ran cooler and allowed higher speeds. Like
me, he had been lubing it with South Bend spindle oil.

I talked to the E-M VP about it, and she said, first, it's the same
oil as their industrial synthetic, aside from the additives, and that
those additives make no difference in a total-loss system. She thought
0W-20 would be fine in that application.

This prompted me to ask about other applications, and she said it was
generally the same story: synthetic lubricates much better, and the
additives in motor oil won't matter for almost all applications except
those that recycle the oil. As for viscosity, make sure it's thin
enough to get into the bearing area and thick enough to minimize
metal-to-metal contact.

So I stopped driving to my mill supply to stock a few different
weights of machine oil. I use synthetics in my cars, and I just save
the remains, turning the cans upside-down overnight and then pouring
the last bit into my all-purpose pump oil can.

I did buy a can of 0W-20 to use in the spindle of my furnace blower
motor. I use the heavier stuff on my garden tools and the joints of my
pocket knives. My honing oil is still 10% motor oil and 90% kerosene,
as it has been for close to 60 years, and the motor oil for that is
whatever is lying around.

--
Ed Huntress

[John B.]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 17:03:59 -0400, Ed Huntress
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:

>On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx <noj...@knology.net> wrote:
>
>>On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:
>>> On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
>>>> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers
>>>
>>> jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?
>>>
>>> https://www.google.com/search?q=garage+door+roller+lubricant&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
>>All I can add is, my wife's comment.
>>
>>"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"
>>
>>All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
>>but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)
>>
>> Mikek
>>
>
>The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
>businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
>marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
>specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
>Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. <g>

I read the Kingston web page to my wife, who grew up cooking on
charcoal, and she declared it as "utterly false" (I translated her
reply which was a bit more colorful) or, she commented, "those
foreigners don't know much about cooking with charcoal" :-)

>If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
>variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
>with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
>with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
>screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
>until it doesn't."
>
>Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...
--

cheers,

John B.

[Garrett Fulton]

Makes great chainsaw bar oil. I'm sure you'll tell me how bad I'm polluting now.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:9eaknahgpa11ukv3n...@4ax.com...

"Made from petroleum oil" can mean that the synthetic oil is based on
chemicals originally derived from petroleum, such as ethylene and its
relatives. Plastics are also "made from petroleum".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:18:02 +0000, Dicker
<0f8503901d844703ee...@example.com> wrote:

>What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

How about something like "Garage door lubricant" from AGS in Muskegon
Michigan. The tube I have says cat no GLC-1 It is a 34 gram tube and
I've had it for at least a decade.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress

Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
embargoed

[Ed Huntress]

Right. That was the sneaky point. d8-)

They crack it down, and then re-synthesize it to make "synthetic"
motor oil. And the result is worth it.

This comes up from time to time because I once had a boss who was
proud of the fact that she used synthetic motor oil in her Benz, thus
avoiding the use of petroleum. She was really let down when I
explained it to her.

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
use to assemble Mobil 1.

--
Ed Huntress

[Larry Jaques]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 14:18:02 +0000, Dicker

<0f8503901d844703ee...@example.com> wrote:

>What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

Garage door lube in a can. Second is spray white lithium.
Spray the bearings only, not the tracks and wheels. Spray the axles if
they're loose-caught in their holders. Nothing else quiets squeaks.

Tighten all hinge screws properly, too.

Wax between door sections if they creak. Car wax or polymer treatment
works well.

Lube the garage door opener rod bearings, too. Tighten all screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-GDL-TS-Garage-Door-5-Ounces/dp/B0036VQE9G/
Best, doesn't attract dust.

--
Worrying does not take away tomorrow's troubles,
it takes away today's peace. --Lifehack

[Mike Spencer]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> writes:

> Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
> with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
> 'Makes good paint.
>
> And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
> dries in a month or so.

And blacksmiths traditionally (and still) rub workpieces straight
from the fire (sooty, some scale) with linseed oil while just hot enough
to gently smoke a bit. The heat accelerates the polymerization and the
wiped-down piece is no longer sticky by the time it's cool enough to
handle. Makes a nice, somewhat weather resistant black finish.

For wood, a point to note is that "boiled" linseed may contain cobalt
dryer. Probably not very much but cobalt is toxic so you may want to
avoid it on salad bowls and food prep surfaces.

Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue in
cheek? Surely? :-o

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

[Steve W.]

mog...@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 10:53:08 AM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
>> On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 10:38:14 -0400, "Steve W."
>> <csr...@NOTyahoo.com> wrote:
>>

>>> Dicker wrote:
>>>> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

>>> Dry dusty areas - Teflon based dry lube spray
>>>
>>> Reasonably dust free areas - Motorcycle chain lube.
>> Jeez. I've used left-over motor oil on mine for 38 years. They're
>> still going strong.
>>
>> I started with 10W-40. Now we're at synthetic 5W-20. Whatever is
>> left over goes into my "what the hell" pump oiler.
>
> Once motor oil leaves the engine, it should ONLY go to recycling. It
> shouldn't be used for anything else.

OOPS, Guess I shouldn't be using it in the waste oil furnace in the shop
or to fuel my foundry furnace...

But it does work really well for both...

--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

Ed Huntress wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:54:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
> <pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

>
>> Dicker <0f8503901d844703ee...@example.com> wrote:
>>> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers

>> boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.
>
> And what do you do when it oxidizes and hardens? It's the basis of
> real, old-fashioned oil-based paint. First it turns to something like
> the gunk inside the lid of a molasses jar, and then it turns to
> varnish.
>

Which is why a lot of old engine folks use it to preserve their engines.
Brush it on and let it dry, apply a couple coats and it keeps them
looking good for years.

--
Steve W.

[Ed Huntress]

On 12 Jun 2015 02:06:39 -0300, Mike Spencer

<m...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere> wrote:

>
>Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> writes:
>
>> Our oldest family home, built in 1741 in Greenland, NH, was painted
>> with a mixture of linseed oil and white lead for well over 100 years.
>> 'Makes good paint.
>>
>> And several of my gunstocks are coated with hand-rubbed linseed, which
>> dries in a month or so.
>
>And blacksmiths traditionally (and still) rub workpieces straight
>from the fire (sooty, some scale) with linseed oil while just hot enough
>to gently smoke a bit. The heat accelerates the polymerization and the
>wiped-down piece is no longer sticky by the time it's cool enough to
>handle. Makes a nice, somewhat weather resistant black finish.
>
>For wood, a point to note is that "boiled" linseed may contain cobalt
>dryer. Probably not very much but cobalt is toxic so you may want to
>avoid it on salad bowls and food prep surfaces.

Right. There are several metal "salts" that have been used in "boiled"
linseed, generally not good things for your health. In the old days it
was boiled with litharge -- red lead oxide. They're catalysts that
promote polymerization of the oil.

>
>Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue in
>cheek? Surely? :-o

One hopes. One never quite depends on it. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

[Jim Wilkins]

"Mike Spencer" <m...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere> wrote in message
news:87d211q...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere...

>
>
> Surely anyone suggesting linseed as a lubricant is doing it toungue
> in
> cheek? Surely? :-o
>
> --
> Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Haven't you noticed how badly misinformed a few posters here are? And
they are the most adamant that they are right and everyone else
wrong.. A little knowledge...

I've salvaged a motor that had been oiled with salad oil, which is
also unsaturated and polymerizes like linseed though not as solidly.
Old machine tools sometimes have a coating of hardened oil, maybe lard
oil?

-jsw

[John B.]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress

Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.
--
cheers,

John B.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message

news:t6lknapq065v4sm34...@4ax.com...

The MSDS reveals nothing useful:
http://www.texasexpresslube.com/documents/MSDS/Mobil%201%205W-30.pdf

-jsw

[Terry Coombs]

I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess .

--
Snag

[Larry Jaques]

Yum, bypassed combustion products and acids on my chainsaw bar,
sprocket, and chain...I can't _wait_ to try that at home!

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> fired this volley in news:mlej37$o6r$1
@dont-email.me:

> I switched to using olive oil to coat my wok and cast iron pans just
> because the salad oil leaves a gummy mess .
>

And I switched to boiled linseed oil and half-again its weight in graphite,
just because I never wanted to paint the inside bearing surfaces of my
garage door roller tracks again.

MAN, there are some stuffed-shirts on here!

[Terry Coombs]

Totally different applications here Lloyd . I got tired of having to scrub
the mess out of pans that don't see frequent use . Stuffed shirt ? Me ?
Hardly !
I can think of a few places where your BLO and graphite mixture would work
well though .
--
Snag

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 6/11/2015 12:00 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
> Cydrome Leader <pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> fired this volley in news:mlcav8
> $1t9$1...@reader1.panix.com:

>
>> boiled linseed oil works great, keeps everything from rusting.
>

> Yep... then top that off with LOTS of dry graphite, to keep everything
> moving smoothly. 'Bout a 1/2-oz per foot of roller channel works well.
>

What am I missing: garage door rollers are supposed to roll, the channel
doesn't need to be lubricated.

[Garrett Fulton]

I don't run my hands up and down the chain or bar except during adjustments and with work gloves. And I don't eat the firewood. And just exactly how much exposure is there when stacking the firewood when I'm usually using work gloves again? See how silly this exposure to toxins can become. Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> fired this volley in

news:mlepf7$g4e$1...@dont-email.me:

> Totally different applications here Lloyd . I got tired of having to
> scrub the mess out of pans that don't see frequent use . Stuffed shirt
> ? Me ? Hardly !

'Still don't get it, do you, Terry?

When's the last time YOU painted the INSIDE BEARING SURFACE of a roller
track?

Lloyd

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <mlej37$o6r$1...@dont-email.me>, Terry Coombs

What I've found to work best on cast iron pans is peanut oil. Smear
pan all over, heat up until it starts smoking, set aside. The oil
turns to varnish right away. Lard also works, but takes longer to
cure. Likewise tallow.

Joe Gwinn

[Ed Huntress]

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:33:46 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joeg...@comcast.net>
wrote:

Peanut oil is the one often recommended by chefs and cookware
manufacturers, supposedly because it has a high smoking temperature
and seals the cast-iron pores better than other oils.

I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.

I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
load it with graphite powder. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

[Jim Wilkins]

"Joe Gwinn" <joeg...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:120620151033468882%joeg...@comcast.net...

I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
with Dawn and a plastic brush. The remaining black coating is thin but
very stable and the iron doesn't rust while drip-drying. Omelettes
come loose easily in it without splitting.

I don't run the wood stove hot enough to make the oil smoke.

-jsw

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <r2slna13i7sisgg3d...@4ax.com>, Ed Huntress

I've read that too, though I was using peanut oil long before, probably
because I observed that it seemed to turn to varnish pretty quickly.

Turning this around, I've also discovered that the quickest way to
remove burned-on crud in the bottom of a pan is methylene-chloride
based paint stripper - the cured food oil is in fact varnish.

> I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
> other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
> there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.

Any unsaturated edible oil will do, though some cure better than
others, and the taste of the oil varies as well.

As for peanut oil, once the oil on the pan has cured, one cannot taste
the oil. Especially after frying some meat.

I have not tried it, but I bet corn oil would work. Likewise safflower
oil.

> I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
> load it with graphite powder. d8-)

I bet the viscosity modifiers are tasty.


Joe Gwinn

[Terry Coombs]

Never , and if you look above you'll see the post where I was laughing my
ass off about it . HOWEVER there may actually be an application where
graphite bound with BLO may make a decent lubricant . Ever heard of/used
molykote 8800 ? MoS2 in a binder .

--
Snag

[Terry Coombs]

I can't use peanut oil , wife is sensitive to it . Does awful things to
her digestive tract .

--
Snag

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

"Terry Coombs" <snag...@msn.com> fired this volley in

news:mlf76g$7k4$1...@dont-email.me:

> Never , and if you look above you'll see the post where I was laughing
> my ass off about it .

Sorry. I didn't see it, or I'd have lightened up on you.

Apparently, though, SEVERAL folks here just do not get the joke.

And to the guy who asked why anyone would lubricate a ROLLING member...
I don't know... why do they lubricate roller bearings? (duh!)

Lloyd

[Ed Huntress]

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 13:30:37 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joeg...@comcast.net>

Huh. I'll have to try that. I use a 3/4" wood chisel and a 4"
angle-head grinder. d8-)

>
>
>> I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
>> other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but
>> there are so many other factors involved that it's hard to tell.
>
>Any unsaturated edible oil will do, though some cure better than
>others, and the taste of the oil varies as well.
>
>As for peanut oil, once the oil on the pan has cured, one cannot taste
>the oil. Especially after frying some meat.
>
>I have not tried it, but I bet corn oil would work. Likewise safflower
>oil.

I went to olive oil first, and then settled on canola oil.

>
>
>> I'll bet that 20W-40 would work really well. 'Maybe even better if you
>> load it with graphite powder. d8-)
>
>I bet the viscosity modifiers are tasty.

It tastes like...quinoa panzanella a la Pennzoil.

>
>
>Joe Gwinn

--
Ed Huntress

[Ed Huntress]

To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets.

--
Ed Huntress

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in
news:0j8mna5jps7jqmpko...@4ax.com:

> To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
> cageless sets.

Really? I didn't know that! <not>

And why would one lubricate the rollers in a garage door track? Because
they do not roll precisely-true, and rub on the sides. And they're
noisy, metal on sheet metal, and all that; lubrication also quiets them.

Just to be clear, Ed; I knew all about that... its being sort of
"mechanics 101". The joke about BLO and graphite was a joke, so "off-
the-wall" that ANYBODY would have 'gotten it'. And so many didn't...
<sigh>

Lloyd

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <mlf796$7v6$1...@dont-email.me>, Terry Coombs

She'll be OK so long as she doesn't eat the pan. The oil is well cured
and does not come off.

Anyway, as Ed mentioned, canola oil also works.

Joe Gwinn

[Ed Huntress]

We seem to have a failure to communicate. <g> Let's see why that is:

Lloyd asks:

"And to the guy who asked why anyone would lubricate a ROLLING

member...I don't know... why do they lubricate roller bearings?
(duh!)"

To which Ed replies:

"To reduce friction against the cages and against each other, in
cageless sets."

And Lloyd rejoins:

"Really? I didn't know that! <not>"

Lloyd, you asked a reasonable question, got an accurate and reasonable
answer, and now you seem to be perplexed about it. Carrying on:

Lloyd says:

"And why would one lubricate the rollers in a garage door track?
Because they do not roll precisely-true, and rub on the sides. And
they're noisy, metal on sheet metal, and all that; lubrication also
quiets them."

Which is generally true, but which HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE QUESTION
YOU ASKED!

You asked why roller bearings are lubricated. And you expect an answer
to why one would lubricate a roller wheel on a sheet-metal track.
Different questions, and they get different answers. My solution, BTW,
is to shoot some oil into the bearings and don't wipe it up when some
oil drools out. It works great. No fuss, no muss. <g>

Now, about your linseed-and-graphite soup: You'd just given us a story
about "real" boiled linseed oil, which was sort of half cracker-barrel
technology and half old-wives's tale (more about this later), and now
you sound like you're serious about recommending this glop. Maybe you
were serious. What you said is partly true: linseed is used to protect
against rust (more about this later, too) and graphite is sometimes
mixed with binders for lubricating purposes. You seem to think that
some linseed doesn't get really hard, so maybe you thought that was
all a good idea. I didn't want to get into a big discussion about it
(an idea that now has become a complete loss <g>), so I let it slip
away after your sardonic remarks.

===================================

A few facts about linseed oil, boiled and otherwise: It boils at
around 300 deg. F. It smokes -- like crazy -- at around 225 deg. F.
When they boiled it in ancient times, it was done with a
metal-compound catalyst, which they called "metal salts," which was,
in earlier times, litharge. That's lead oxide. It wasn't until they
STOPPED boiling it, centuries later, that they found they could use
other metal salts to promote hardening without actually boiling the
oil. Today, it's often a cobalt compound. Sometimes it's a mixture of
a zinc compound and something else.

So I have no idea what you mean by "real" boiled linseed. They haven't
done that for well over a century. Where the idea came from MAY be
from the way they make "stand oil." For that, you heat linseed in a
sealed container to around 600 deg. F, for hours. The result is called
stand oil. It's used a lot in artist's oil paints, and small amounts
of it are sometimes mixed into the commercial product that we call
"boiled" linseed oil today. It's as thick as honey and it's partly
polymerized. It promotes polymerization of raw linseed. Don't do this
at home; a leak could cause an explosion.

So far, you've got some homebrew product that you're happy with, and
that's fine. But you got the tacky part all twisted up. Raw linseed
takes a very long time to harden. I sealed a pair of custom-made ash
oars, which I still have, with raw linseed the year we moved into our
house: 1978. By 1981 or so, they were nice and hard and dry. <g> They
took extra time because I didn't know at that time that you're
supposed to mix the first coat 50/50 with real turpentine. Now I know.
That's how I've done my gunstocks, only with boiled linseed rather
than raw linseed. The first coat takes weeks to dry. Subsequent coats,
hand-rubbed with the heel of my hand, take around a week or less. My
Model 1885 Browning falling-block, before I sold it, had over 20
hand-rubbed coats on it. It was absolutely beautiful. My antique
woodworking planes were treated the same way.

That was "commercial" boiled linseed. That's what "boiled" linseed is
today. It's refined raw linseed that contains metal compounds
(collectively known as "Japan driers") that catalyze the oil and
promote polymerization, which basically occurs from an oxidation
reaction. As I said, it may also contain some stand oil, some
turpentine (the artists' product, which is thicker than the turps we
used in house paint years ago), and sometimes other solvents.

Now, here's why I didn't get into this with you: You were partly
right. It can protect against rust, but it doesn't do very well in
open air. It's hydrophobic, but it's also porous. It's kind of a mixed
bag in terms of rust protection. For around 90 years, it's been used
to coat the inside of steel tubes used in aircraft tube frames as a
rust protectant. But here's the kicker: Its protection is based
partly, or maybe mostly, on "eating up" available oxygen in those
(hopefully) sealed tubes, as it oxidizes and polymerizes. In other
words, it starves the rust. And, if the tube is well sealed, it never
gets really hard.

So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide. You do tend to be jumpy
from time to time, as we both know. d8-) I don't doubt your experience
with the oil but man, following you around the block can be a workout.

--
Ed Huntress

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in

news:okamnat0jqqanch9q...@4ax.com:

> So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
> about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide

You obviously know nothing but "lore" about BLO.

It is not "boiled", it is slow-cooked at steam temperatures to cause the
oils/fats to separate from the resins. It is then carefully decanted
first, then filtered through material preferential to fats, until only
the resinous parts remain.

You read. I do. I've made authentic BLO furniture finishes since the
early 1960s by the method above. They don't "harden in a month". They
'cure' in a week.

Lloyd

[Ed Huntress]

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 15:39:29 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
<lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

>Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> fired this volley in
>news:okamnat0jqqanch9q...@4ax.com:
>
>> So, not being a mind reader, and not knowing where you got your ideas
>> about "boiled" linseed oil, I let it slide
>
>You obviously know nothing but "lore" about BLO.
>
>It is not "boiled", it is slow-cooked at steam temperatures to cause the
>oils/fats to separate from the resins. It is then carefully decanted
>first, then filtered through material preferential to fats, until only
>the resinous parts remain.

The jargon in that business is so fouled up that you might mean
anything. Artists make at least a dozen varieties, several of them
"boiled," and some of them "heat-bodied," some "stand oil," some
"sun-thickened," and so on. They're old terms that refer to many
different heat treatments that have been used through the centuries.
There is no single "lore."

>
>You read. I do. I've made authentic BLO furniture finishes since the
>early 1960s by the method above. They don't "harden in a month". They
>'cure' in a week.

Very nice. Carry on, Lloyd.

--
Ed Huntress

>Lloyd

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:42:33 -0400, Ed Huntress
<hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:

>On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 23:18:14 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

>
>>On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 18:58:13 -0400, Ed Huntress
>><hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 22:30:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
>>><pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
>>>

>>>>Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
>>>>> On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx <noj...@knology.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:

>>>>>>> On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
>>>>>>>> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers
>>>>>>>

>>>I suppose you know that all "synthetic" oils are made from petroleum
>>>oil.
>> Actually quite a bit is made from natural gas - - - And in South
>>Africa they made it from coal during apartheid when they were
>>embargoed
>
>Are you sure they make synthetic motor oil from gas? I know it's a
>common source of ethylene, but I'm not sure about what molecules they
>use to assemble Mobil 1.

I was told all "petroleum" products in South Africa in the late
sixties/early seventies came from coal and natural gas.

Natural gas and even "coal gas" can be used to syntheaize oil - but it
is easier to use "heavier" feedstock.

[Ed Huntress]

Right. Chemistry is not my thing, but I'm told that ethylene is a
commodity that can come from oil or gas. Still, the people at
Exxon-Mobil told me that their synthetic products are made from
petroleum.

I suppose it doesn't matter.

--
Ed Huntress

[Larry Jaques]

I started using canola oil on my cast iron decades ago. Boil out the
pan, reboil and wipe with un-soaped cloth. Heat it on the stove until
very hot, pour in some canola oil, swipe around, and let sit, cooling
for 5 minutes, then wipe down with paper towel to remove excess oil.
Once the pan is cool, it's seasoned and ready. I use 3:1 virgin
coconut oil to butter as my "oil" for cooking. Neither leaves it
sticky.

>I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
>breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
>with Dawn and a plastic brush.

Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!

>The remaining black coating is thin but
>very stable and the iron doesn't rust while drip-drying. Omelettes
>come loose easily in it without splitting.

Yeah, properly seasoned cast iron is as good or better than PTFE.

>I don't run the wood stove hot enough to make the oil smoke.

Omelettes must take hours, then. Condolences.

[Larry Jaques]

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 07:23:27 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton

Who's talking about toxins? Not I. But dirty oil stinks and acids
eat bars, chains, and sprockets. Go ahead and recycle those onto your
chainsaw. Your extra dimes.

>Go ahead and pay for bar oil. Your dime.

You bet I will. And next decade, I'll buy another $6 gallon.

--
The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

[Garrett Fulton]

No, the "acids" from diesel crankcase oil don't eat anything on 3000 mile oil changes. I'm anal about oil changes on my truck. I'll concede it doesn't smell nice like bar oil. But, no, on the acids. If they did, I'd be going through chains, bars and sprockets. I'm not.
I'm saving money that would have been wasted on bar oil.

[Mike Spencer]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> writes:

>> Turning this around, I've also discovered that the quickest way to
>> remove burned-on crud in the bottom of a pan is methylene-chloride
>> based paint stripper - the cured food oil is in fact varnish.
>
> Huh. I'll have to try that. I use a 3/4" wood chisel and a 4"
> angle-head grinder. d8-)

For the burned-on crud on the *outside* of my cast iron ware, I apply
a coarse [1] 3M Clean'n'Strip(tm) wheel or the Walther equialent every
couple of years. These flexible mesh wheels cut well enough to remove
*any* organic crud (or even mill scale from new stock) without gouging
the base metal. I have a circa 1925 B&D end grinder that's just right
for the application.


[1] 3M makes them in 3 grades. But it's so much bother to get stuff
from the 3M industrial catalogue that I usually go for Walther
from a local dealer.

[Mike Spencer]

John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com> writes:

> Hydro-carbon gas is a many slandered substance, but when you talk
> about "pipe line" gas it is usually mostly Ethane and Methane. In
> Indonesia they use "gas" to make fertilizer but I'm not sure whether
> they are using strictly ethane-methane of something richer.

Since neither of those (nor other natural has) contains significant
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, there must be more to
the story than that one sentence reveals.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Ed Huntress" <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:s31nnad7cr0mg3pti...@4ax.com...

As student chemists we learned only enough about petroleum refining
that we could understand the explanations of proprietary processes if
we found a job in that industry. The Mobil 1 MSDS shows they don't
reveal much.

In principle we can make any organic (carbon-based) chemical from pure
carbon; coal or charcoal. The methods chosen in practice depend on
economics and politics more than chemistry.
http://blogs.howstuffworks.com/keep-asking/how-is-coal-converted-to-oil-and-gasoline.htm

-jsw

[John B.]

On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer

I'm not a chemist so I can't argue one way or the other. All I can say
is that I know of two "fertilizer plants" in Indonesia that made
fertilizer from natural gas. I seem to remember the "Habor, or maybe
Haber, process" being mentioned.
--
cheers,

John B.

[Jim Wilkins]

"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
news:lr4nnaltvorubq1ep...@4ax.com...

> On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>

>>I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
>>breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
>>with Dawn and a plastic brush.
>
> Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
> Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!
>

I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
What took so long?

http://www.thekitchn.com/5-myths-of-cast-iron-cookware-206831
"Official word straight from a fourth-generation cast iron
manufacturer-soap will NOT ruin your cast."

I dilute the Dawn to 1/10 - 1/20 strength in the one-hand pump
dispenser beside the sink and squirt only a drop or two into the pan.
There isn't quite enough to remove all the olive oil and maybe sausage
fat. The water beads up and runs off when I hang the pan vertically
over the drying rack.

-jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"Mike Spencer" <m...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere> wrote in message

news:877fr85...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere...

> Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urea

-jsw

[Jim Wilkins]

"John B." <johnbs...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:605onatds8qiani80...@4ax.com...

The Haber Process turns nitrogen from the air and hydrogen from
natural gas into ammonia, which can then be converted into solid urea
for fertilizer.
http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/equilibria/haber.html

German chemists developed this and the method for making gasoline from
coal during the wars when they were cut off from petroleum. At the
time they weren't economical for nations with better access to raw
materials but they have become so as the natural supply diminished.

-jsw

[Larry Jaques]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 07:54:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"

<murat...@gmail.com> wrote:

>"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
>news:lr4nnaltvorubq1ep...@4ax.com...
>> On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>
>>>I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
>>>breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
>>>with Dawn and a plastic brush.
>>
>> Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
>> Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!
>>
>
>I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
>What took so long?

I hadn't seen it? I forced a girlfriend to eat the next omelet from
the pan once I caught her soaping my cast iron skillet. She almost
threw up from the taste. Then I showed her how to clean it, desoap
it, and season it properly. She's been a believer ever since.

>http://www.thekitchn.com/5-myths-of-cast-iron-cookware-206831
>"Official word straight from a fourth-generation cast iron
>manufacturer-soap will NOT ruin your cast."

<grumble, grumble, bloody knuckledraggers, grumble, grumble>
It ruins it for ME. That's enough.

Cast iron is extremely porous. Soap simply taints the pan for ten
more (soapless) washings so you have the taste of the soap and all its
perfumes in your _food_ for that entire time. If you like that, carry
on, but I'll still openly call ya a heathen for doing so. ;) The
reason cast iron has such a bad name in many circles is because their
idiot housewives used soap in them. I've helped dozens of misinformed
people to rediscover the worth of these fine metal pans after ceasing
soap use with them. Soap? Just Say NO!

>I dilute the Dawn to 1/10 - 1/20 strength in the one-hand pump
>dispenser beside the sink and squirt only a drop or two into the pan.

Well, your dilution helps, but the Ick factor is still high.

>There isn't quite enough to remove all the olive oil and maybe sausage
>fat. The water beads up and runs off when I hang the pan vertically
>over the drying rack.

I learned to boil my pan with plain water when it had to be cleaned,
then to reseason. It has never failed me, and I _much_ prefer the
soap-free taste, thankyouverymuch. I wipe my pans after use and
reseason frequently used pans once every week or two. The boiled
water helps keep the kitchen drain clear, too.

[Larry Jaques]

On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 21:03:13 -0700 (PDT), Garrett Fulton

Granted, it's worse with gasoline engines. And short oil changes uses
the money you would have "wasted" on bar oil.

It's a draw. :^)

[Ed Huntress]

If you can taste the soap, then you've stripped off too much of the
oxidized oil. Like Jim, I stopped listening to that "no soap" stuff
around 30 years ago. My 48-year-old and 39-year-old pans don't taste
like soap, and I wash them with soap almost every time I use them.
Likewise, my c.i. Dutch oven, my c.i. griddle, and my two French
carbon-steel saute pans.

Just don't scrub too hard or too long and you won't have to re-cure
the pan. Get it just right, and you'll only have to strip the pan
every 10 years or so, but it will remain stick-free all the while.

>--
>The beauty of the 2nd Amendment is that it will not be needed
>until they try to take it. --Thomas Jefferson

Spurious quotation, first recorded on the Internet in 2007. Jefferson
never said it or anything like it.

--
Ed Huntress

[rangerssuck]

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 5:04:04 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:51:57 -0500, amdx <noj...@knology.net> wrote:
>
> >On 6/11/2015 9:21 AM, Neville M. Wiles wrote:

> >> On 6/11/2015 7:18 AM, Dicker wrote:
> >>> What is a good lubricant for garage door rollers
> >>

> >> jesus - could you possibly be more passive about obtaining information?
> >>
> >> https://www.google.com/search?q=garage+door+roller+lubricant&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
> >>
> >>
> >
> > I recently used the 3 in 1 garage door lube from Lowes.
> >All I can add is, my wife's comment.
> >
> >"What did you do to the garage door, it's so quiet!"
> >
> >All I could say is, I spent half the afternoon working on it,
> >but I got it quieted down, for you dear. :-)
> >
> > Mikek
> >
>
> The non-engine lubricant business, like many other commodity
> businesses, has made target-market differentiation its main method of
> marketing. The idea is to take a commodity and claim that it's made
> specifically for some special purpose. Kingsford Competition
> Briquettes are one of my favorite examples. <g>
>
> If they described it functionally, it would be something like "Garden
> variety lubricant suitable for low-grade bearings that wobble around
> with atrocious clearances in misaligned channels, and may have to run
> with dirt of various kinds, including cat droppings. Prevents
> screeching, howling, and absolute freezing of said low-grade bearings,
> until it doesn't."
>
> Give 'er another squirt, and see if it will spin...
>

> --
> Ed Huntress

Interesting note: Scott Logan says that, with the exception of the geared-headstocks, he uses #2 way oil for EVERY PART of his Logan lathes, So much for all the specialty stuff. When it comes to caring for my Logan, I'm going to take advice from Scott before I take it from Exxon-Mobil.

[Ed Huntress]

Well, the general cast of the discussion I had with that Exxon-Mobil
engineer was more like that of Scott than that of the "specialty" lube
makers. She said that it doesn't make a lot of difference until you
get into really complex lube tasks like lubricating a car engine.

--
Ed Huntress

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On 13 Jun 2015 01:08:44 -0300, Mike Spencer
<m...@bogus.nodomain.nowhere> wrote:

>

From Wkipedia-

All nitrogen fertilizers are made from ammonia (NH3), which is
sometimes injected into the ground directly. The ammonia is produced
by the Haber-Bosch process.[5] In this energy-intensive process,
natural gas (CH4) supplies the hydrogen and the nitrogen (N2) is
derived from the air. This ammonia is used as a feedstock for all
other nitrogen fertilizers, such as anhydrous ammonium nitrate
(NH4NO3) and urea (CO(NH2)2). Deposits of sodium nitrate (NaNO3)
(Chilean saltpeter) are also found in the Atacama desert in Chile and
was one of the original (1830) nitrogen-rich fertilizers used.[11] It
is still mined for fertilizer.[12]

In the USA in 2004, 317 billion cubic feet of natural gas were
consumed in the industrial production of ammonia, less than 1.5% of
total U.S. annual consumption of natural gas.[76] A 2002 report
suggested that the production of ammonia consumes about 5% of global
natural gas consumption, which is somewhat under 2% of world energy
production.[77]

Ammonia is produced from natural gas and air.[78] The cost of natural
gas makes up about 90% of the cost of producing ammonia.[79] The
increase in price of natural gases over the past decade, along with
other factors such as increasing demand, have contributed to an
increase in fertilizer price.[80]

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 18:38:32 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Haber

again from Wiki -

The 1910s and 1920s witness the rise of the Haber process and the
Ostwald process. The Haber process produces ammonia (NH3) from methane
(CH4) gas and molecular nitrogen (N2). The ammonia from the Haber
process is then converted into nitric acid (HNO3) in the Ostwald
process.[96] The development of synthetic fertilizer has significantly
supported global population growth — it has been estimated that almost
half the people on the Earth are currently fed as a result of
synthetic nitrogen fertilizer use.[97]

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <jtaonatqhi443v1rh...@4ax.com>, Ed Huntress

I don't use soap, but not because I cannot get the soap taste off -
boiling an inch of water in the pan will do the job. As will heating
the pan hot enough to burn the soap off, red hot being traditional,
followed by re-seasoning. But there is a better way:

In the 1960s, I worked for a summer at a McDonalds making the shakes,
and I watched the short-order cook (a 45 yo Texan). He just heated the
grill sheet up, dumped some water on the surface, and scraped and
scrubbed the boiling mess with a heavy steel scraper and an old rag.
This was fast, and completely effective. He had to do this
periodically, or the accumulated grunge would affect the taste of the
hamburgers.

I still use the Texan's method, followed by smearing some grease (from
whatever was last cooked) all over the now too-clean (rust-bait)
surfaces.

Joe Gwinn

[Steve W.]

Same method I use on the big griddle. Heat it up, water, scrub/scrape
and wipe clean, then toss a couple cheap burgers on and use the grease
from them to do the final clean and reoil the surface.

Use a similar method with the iron pots/pans. But I use peanut oil and
toss them in the BBQ to carbonize the oil.

--
Steve W.

[Steve W.]

Most people don't seem to understand that you want the oil to smoke, the
carbon that fills the pores in the iron is what gives you the nice black
glazed non-stick surface. Properly seasoned you can just dry the iron
and it doesn't rust.

--
Steve W.

[John B.]

My mother "washed" her cast iron skillet as far back as I can remember
with no noticeable effects on the taste of her cooking. I suspect that
the secret was that she "washed" it with a "dish rag" and soap and
water, not with a steel brush.
--
cheers,

John B.

[John B.]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:40:39 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
<range...@gmail.com> wrote:

But what is #2 Way Oil?
--
cheers,

John B.

[Gunner Asch]

On Sun, 14 Jun 2015 13:52:04 +0700, John B. <johnbs...@gmail.com>
wrote:

Its a moderately heavy oil that is VERY sticky. It sticks to just
about anything it touches. Getting sliding parts started takes a bit
more effort than "regular" oils..but once they are moving...works just
the same.

Some brand names are "Vactra",Vacuoline 1409, and MSCs Tru Edge (no
idea whose product they repackage)

Vactra #2 is most commonly used. Or its equivelent.

Gunner

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:04:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
<lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:

>On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 07:54:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
><murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
>>news:lr4nnaltvorubq1ep...@4ax.com...
>>> On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>>> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>
>>>>I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
>>>>breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
>>>>with Dawn and a plastic brush.
>>>
>>> Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
>>> Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!
>>>
>>
>>I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
>>What took so long?
>
>I hadn't seen it? I forced a girlfriend to eat the next omelet from
>the pan once I caught her soaping my cast iron skillet. She almost
>threw up from the taste. Then I showed her how to clean it, desoap
>it, and season it properly. She's been a believer ever since.
>

You FORCED her? Really? How? And if you did then I imagine you are
either celibate now or with someone with no self esteem.
Eric

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 14 Jun 2015 12:14:16 -0700, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

>On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 06:04:51 -0700, Larry Jaques
><lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 13 Jun 2015 07:54:48 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>><murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
>>>news:lr4nnaltvorubq1ep...@4ax.com...
>>>> On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 12:37:31 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
>>>> <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>
>>>>>I chipped and scraped out my grandmother's baked-on crust and cook
>>>>>breakfast in a few drops of olive oil, then lightly wash the frypan
>>>>>with Dawn and a plastic brush.
>>>>
>>>> Ayieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Heathen monster!
>>>> Thou Shalt -Not- Soap the Cast Iron Pan, EVER!
>>>>
>>>
>>>I've been waiting for that mailbomb to explode.
>>>What took so long?
>>
>>I hadn't seen it? I forced a girlfriend to eat the next omelet from
>>the pan once I caught her soaping my cast iron skillet. She almost
>>threw up from the taste. Then I showed her how to clean it, desoap
>>it, and season it properly. She's been a believer ever since.
>>
>You FORCED her? Really? How? And if you did then I imagine you are
>either celibate now or with someone with no self esteem.

I supposed I should have said "I shamed her into eating it."
Dayum, the literalists are out in force this month...

--
Find out what people will submit to, and you have found out the
exact amount of injustice and wrong which will be imposed on them.
--Frederick Douglass

[Cydrome Leader]

Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
> On Fri, 12 Jun 2015 10:33:46 -0400, Joe Gwinn <joeg...@comcast.net>

> Peanut oil is the one often recommended by chefs and cookware
> manufacturers, supposedly because it has a high smoking temperature
> and seals the cast-iron pores better than other oils.
>
> I used it 40 years ago, but I don't like the smell and switched to
> other oils. I never noticed a difference in how my pans behave but

Does the smell of peanut oil always seem off to you too? I don't mind
peanuts or peanut butter, but the smell of peanut oil or even slightly
old peanut butter bugs me. Nobody else I've come across yet even know what
I'm talking about when I bring this up.

[Ed Huntress]

I think it's because I live near several Chinese restaurants, and the
smell reminds me of gastric distress. <g>

Seriously, I just don't like the smell of hot peanut oil. Like you,
I'm fine with the smell of peanuts and peanut butter.

--
Ed Huntress

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Mon, 15 Jun 2015 17:27:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

As the oil ages it starts to oxidize and become rancid. You are
probably very sensitive to peanut oilthat is starting to turn rancid.
I have a problem with raw fish that has sat around too long. My wife,
who has a much better sense of smell, isn't put off by some fish that
smells really bad to me. So I think that I am just way more sensitive
to that one smell than she is.
Eric

[bruce2...@gmail.com]

Ed Huntress wrote:

> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> It has never failed me, and I _much_ prefer the
>> soap-free taste, thankyouverymuch. I wipe my pans after use and
>> reseason frequently used pans once every week or two. The boiled
>> water helps keep the kitchen drain clear, too.

I saw that there's an advertisement for new drain cleaners. They insert these little blue-colored cleaning sticks into the drain where they rest in the drain pipe's gap and dissolve and keep everything clean there.

> If you can taste the soap, then you've stripped
> off too much of the oxidized oil. Like Jim, I stopped
> listening to that "no soap" stuff around 30 years ago.
> My 48-year-old and 39-year-old pans don't taste
> like soap, and I wash them with soap almost every time
> I use them.

To keep the drains clear, I sometimes wonder if I should buy an extra fishtape, one to jab about 15 or 20 times in the bath tub drain (I prefer physical removal of a clog to the chemical drain cleaners) and the maybe buy another snake line to keep the kitchen sink drain running. Maybe a third one for the commode? (Who wants to snake out everything with just one fishtape?) I heard a steam fitter at a job site talking about that. They now even have little cameras at the end of some these snake lines where you can actually see the clog.

[nob...@nowhere.com]

On Sun, 1 May 2016 07:17:12 -0700 (PDT), bruce2...@gmail.com wrote:


>To keep the drains clear, I sometimes wonder if I should buy an extra fishtape, one to jab about 15 or 20 times in the bath tub drain (I prefer physical removal of a clog to the chemical drain cleaners) and the maybe buy another snake line to keep the kitchen sink drain running. Maybe a third one for the commode? (Who wants to snake out everything with just one fishtape?) I heard a steam fitter at a job site talking about that. They now even have little cameras at the end of some these snake lines where you can actually see the clog.

little cameras at the end of some these snake lines where you can
actually see the clog.

http://www.banggood.com/1M-3_5M-5_5mm-6-LED-Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Camera-for-Android-Phone-p-1035229.html