Attn. A. Muzi. Sturmey Archer front DYNOHUB setup and adjjustment?

[Sir Ridesalot]

A friend of mine is trying to setup and adjust the front dynohub/wheel on a friend's bicycle.

Andrew, do you have a good instructiobnal on how to attach, setup and adjust the wheel (axle nuts) on a FRONT Sturmey Archer Dynohub?

Can someone point the way to a good online illustrated source or video on how this is done?

Cheers

[AMuzi]

Are you asking whether terminals go on the left or right? We
always go left side[1] but older Raleigh catalogs seem
nondogmatic on that point.

[1[Factory Superbes when we sold British Raleighs were
always left side.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Sir Ridesalot]

Do they go on the left when facing the wheel with the bike right side up?

Do those terminals rotate? The part where the wires attach on the dynohub; does that turn or should the dynohub rotate around that part?

How do you adjust the wheel nuts? When my friend tried to tighten the wheel nuts it tightened the bearings. How does he prevent that?

Cheers

[Ian Field]

"Sir Ridesalot" <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:851f5b2f-0b02-4036...@googlegroups.com...

ARAICR: the dyno side cone has a sleeve with flats or something so you can
stop it turning while you tighten the locknut.

[AMuzi]

Yes, we mount with terminals on the left, the not chain
side. Neither side is 'wrong' depending on which year of
Raleigh catalog the various protagonists are using for their
argument.

Here's my 1953, right side:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/53sports.jpg

lower right here shows a 1980, left side:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/11pumpb.jpg

On any loose-ball system, lock the locknuts on oiled threads
before installing the wheel. For the GH6, back off the
locknut on the terminal side, oil thread and lock securely
with the flatted axle in a vise. That side cone doesn't turn
so just secure the locknut. Now flip the wheel over in your
vise, terminal plate down, and adjust the bearing using your
Sturmey Archer cone wrench and a 15mm wrench. Back off the
locknut, oil thread, adjust to a trace of play at the rim
and lock the adjustment.

Once that's done, lubricate axle threads and your washers/
axle nuts go just like any other nutted hub.

Special notes:
1. GH6 or any dynamo hub will not spin as well as hubs with
no magnet inside. Don't panic this is normal.

2. DO NOT disassemble your Sturmey Archer Dyno Hub. The
stamping right there on your hub "do not disassemble without
keeper ring" isn't worded strongly enough. Separating the
armature (axle assembly) from the magnet (big iron donut in
your hub shell) will dramatically reduce the magnetism and
hence wreck your dynamo.

3. If you are hellbent, make up a hunk of iron about the
same size as your armature, remove armature with magnet
together. Place your iron core thingy next to the armature
and then slide the magnet across from the armature to your
core or 'keeper'. Always keep the magnet around one or the
other.

4. If you do remove the magnet a dab of red locktite (Gene,
this is an actually functional locktite application!) on the
four small nuts is helpful. That's handy with 5mm socket. Do
not overtighten them as they will deform the hubshell.

4. Replacement wire terminals and crimping tool at any
electronics supply store. A quick connector near your hub is
handy for changing a flat tire. Two lead light speaker wire
is handy for rewiring these systems.

[AMuzi]

On 3/12/2016 10:43 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

may be helpful

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/images/photos/pic-62.1.jpg

[Frank Krygowski]

On 3/12/2016 2:08 PM, AMuzi wrote:
>
> 2. DO NOT disassemble your Sturmey Archer Dyno Hub. The stamping right
> there on your hub "do not disassemble without keeper ring" isn't worded
> strongly enough. Separating the armature (axle assembly) from the magnet
> (big iron donut in your hub shell) will dramatically reduce the
> magnetism and hence wreck your dynamo.

I did this disassembly with my NOS 1956 Dynohub when I first acquired
it, many years ago. Something (I now forget what) was scraping slightly
inside, which may have been the reason the unit never sold.

The instructions call for "iron" but in my case, low carbon steel worked
fine. That stuff's about 99.8% iron anyway. I turned my own "keeper"
on a lathe and found it was very easy to use it when sliding the unit
apart. And it's worked fine ever since.

I recall that Jobst made a magnetizing unit to repair Dynohubs that had
been botched up. I also recall that he was deep into the design of the
original Avocet cyclometer, which used a unique 20-pole magnetic ring
plus pickup coil, instead of the typical spoke magnet and reed switch.
I don't think it's a coincidence that the Avocet and the Dynohub both
have 20 poles.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[Ian Field]

"AMuzi" <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
news:nc1pac$iln$1...@dont-email.me...

Demagnetisation is pretty much instantaneous if you remove the armature - in
most cases there's no need to remove the armature from the magnet ring, but
sometimes its jammed in with rust.

You can always keep a spare armature handy, but if it puts up a struggle -
you'll need more hands.

There was a blog somewhere that someone had glued neodymium magnets to a
mild steel ring. Big claims about vastly superior dynamo output - and
neodymium magnets have much better remanance.

[Frank Krygowski]

On 8/26/2016 5:18 PM, Ian Field wrote:
>
>
> There was a blog somewhere that someone had glued neodymium magnets to a
> mild steel ring. Big claims about vastly superior dynamo output - and
> neodymium magnets have much better remanance.

I proposed that in this group at one point. I haven't done it with
mine. The bike that uses the Dynohub is a three-speed used mostly
within the village on pretty quiet streets. So far, it's done fine
letting that hub drive modern high output LEDs.


--
- Frank Krygowski