I've been trolling eBay looking for either:
A Mavic Module 4, 48H 27" rim or
Woberl M58 48H 27" rim.
Can anyone suggest any other equivalent rims I should widen my search
to?
The application will be an eventual replacement for an 700C 32H
unwanted rim I just got as part of the deal for my Tour Easy.
I want it to eventually match the rest of my fleet and as a retro-
curmudgeon I've never felt the urge to join the lemming-like mindless
changeover from 27" to 700C for whatever reason that happened.
(endless standards changes belong in the computer world.)
Ideas and commentary?
Pureheart
Why not use 36 or 32 hole rim? If you need the load capacity use 14
or 13swg spokes and build well.
I believe the Sun CR18 is available in 27" although not sure if any
drillings other than the usual 32 and 36.
I thought about having a set of 27" wheels built for my bike but decided
against it for reasons of tire/fender clearance. With the 700c's I can
run 32mm tires with fenders (barely, but still.) So that's one reason
to convert. That and since I converted that bike to 9-speed I can just
swap wheels back and forth between bikes if I have to.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Note that the lemmings in that stampede include most of the
manufacturers making halfway decent tires. NOS rims are fine if you
can find them; vintage tires are not a good idea.
At the moment, the only really good tires I am aware of that are still
made in the 27" size are Panaracer Pasela and Michelin World Tour. So-
so 27" tires include Vittoria Zaffiro and Continental Ultra Whatever.
27x7/8" and 27x1-3/8" tires are history, and 27x1" is down for the
count. Meanwhile, 700c tires are thriving in a range of widths from
18 to 60mm.
It's a good idea to keep a quality 27" bike running for as long as it
warrants the effort, but changing a 700c bike over to 27" these days
is a significant step backwards. (Not as big a step backwards as
switching to 650B, mind you.)
Chalo
<snip>
> > I want it to eventually match the rest of my fleet and as a retro-
> > curmudgeon I've never felt the urge to join the lemming-like mindless
> > changeover from 27" to 700C for whatever reason that happened.
>
> Note that the lemmings in that stampede include most of the
> manufacturers making halfway decent tires. NOS rims are fine if you
> can find them; vintage tires are not a good idea.
Agreed.
>
> At the moment, the only really good tires I am aware of that are still
> made in the 27" size are Panaracer Pasela and Michelin World Tour. So-
> so 27" tires include Vittoria Zaffiro and Continental Ultra Whatever.
> 27x7/8" and 27x1-3/8" tires are history, and 27x1" is down for the
> count. Meanwhile, 700c tires are thriving in a range of widths from
> 18 to 60mm.
I currently have Continental and Pasela in my larder. ...so, you
consider the Panaracer to be of better quality than the Continentals,
eh? Any particular reason?
I've also liked Michelins when I've been able to find them and I've
tried at least one Vittoria.
I've seen 27x1-3/8, but it was IRC and I'm not inclined to buy more of
that brand.
>
> It's a good idea to keep a quality 27" bike running for as long as it
> warrants the effort, but changing a 700c bike over to 27" these days
> is a significant step backwards. (Not as big a step backwards as
> switching to 650B, mind you.)
>
Well, I'm going to do it anyway (at some piont) if I keep the bike for
any length of time. I'll keep the old wheel around, of course.
Thanks for the input in any case.
pH
> Chalo
<snip>
> > Ideas and commentary?
> > Pureheart
>
> Why not use 36 or 32 hole rim? If you need the load capacity use 14
> or 13swg spokes and build well.
Because I've managed to break 32, 36 and 40H (being a Clydesdale and
all). My 48H Module 4's w/ Phil hub has been perfect for many years
of riding and touring.
(built 'em w/ the Great Jobst Brandt's book)
pH
Ah, this is the kind of info I was hoping for....would you consider
the CR18 to be as robust as the Mavic Mod 4 or Wolber Model 58?
Close enough not to matter?
Thank-you for taking the time to reply.
pH
<snip>
> pH wrote:
> >
> > I've been trolling eBay looking for either:
> >
> > A Mavic Module 4, 48H 27" rim or
> >
> > Woberl M58 48H 27" rim.
> >
> > Can anyone suggest any other equivalent rims I should widen my search
> > to?
> >
> > The application will be an eventual replacement for an 700C 32H
> > unwanted rim I just got as part of the deal for my Tour Easy.
> >
> > I want it to eventually match the rest of my fleet and as a retro-
> > curmudgeon I've never felt the urge to join the lemming-like mindless
> > changeover from 27" to 700C for whatever reason that happened.
>
> Note that the lemmings in that stampede include most of the
> manufacturers making halfway decent tires. NOS rims are fine if you
> can find them; vintage tires are not a good idea.
>
> At the moment, the only really good tires I am aware of that are still
> made in the 27" size are Panaracer Pasela and Michelin World Tour.
Add Serfas to the list.
<http://www.rei.com/product/724621>
> So-
> so 27" tires include Vittoria Zaffiro and Continental Ultra Whatever.
> 27x7/8" and 27x1-3/8" tires are history, and 27x1" is down for the
> count. Meanwhile, 700c tires are thriving in a range of widths from
> 18 to 60mm.
>
> It's a good idea to keep a quality 27" bike running for as long as it
> warrants the effort, but changing a 700c bike over to 27" these days
> is a significant step backwards. (Not as big a step backwards as
> switching to 650B, mind you.)
--
Michael Press
You don't say what spoke gauge you used or your weight. Generally,
using 36, 14swg (0.080" 2mm) spokes will be sufficient for heavy
riders when touring. I've seen regular wheels (36 x 15swg) in use on
a tandem. Brandts book is as defficient as all others I have seen on
bicycle wheel building. They all fail to address the details of the
interlace. Brandt even goes so far as to rubbish the technique of
tying and soldering the crossings without examining a superior wheel.
Paying attention to the interlace by forming elbows here, and possibly
(should you desire) tying and soldering creates a more stable wheel
with lighter components thanJB's published technique ever can.
I have no idea, not having any experience with the Mavic or Wolber rims
you mention. However it does have a reputation for being strong and
cheap. Some have complained of it being not quite perfect and therefore
getting pulsations when braking but I must have got lucky, I have two
CR18s on my bike and they feel darn near perfect.
That said, Sun-Ringle doesn't even list 27" sizes on their web site, so
I have no idea what drillings they are actually available in. I know
I've seen them though.
BTW, the Wolber rims are still available new here:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/category-Rims--27-%28630%29-170.htm
shipping is probably not cheap, but still...
The Dyad is a tough rim, too. I can't figure out why it seems to hold
up so well-- it's not heavy enough (about 500g), it has no eyelets,
it's made from weak alloy, and it even looks like cheap OEM stuff.
But it stays true under some respectably heavy use. I am impressed
with it. The triangular cross-sectional shapes used by Velocity
really work well.
I have not yet used the Dyad on my own bikes, because I generally
won't use a rim that light when there are heavier alternatives
available. But I am looking forward to an opportunity to try out the
new Velocity Chukker for myself.
Chalo
>
> The Dyad is a tough rim, too. I can't figure out why it seems to hold
> up so well-- it's not heavy enough (about 500g), it has no eyelets,
> it's made from weak alloy, and it even looks like cheap OEM stuff.
> But it stays true under some respectably heavy use.
Yet 160lb riders have raced on 24 spoke 200g rims which have no
eyelets. We have recently had this discussion, eyelets conveniently
hide cracks in the drillings, a source of stress riser which leads to
fatigue. Without eyelets you are able to check the quality of the
spoke holes whether they be drillings or piercings. Piercing is the
cheaper option and will be used with OEM wheels. Well enacted
piercings should be an improvement over typical drillings requiring
disguising eyelets to enable sales within the replacement market.
The eyelets also add weight. The rim exceeds the magic 22mm square I
like to think of as an indestructable wheel. This would come in
around 450g. The Dyad is 22 by 24wide and is quoted as 480g. This is
a reasonable amount of extra material given its size. It can also
take a little wider tyre so further protecting it and the rider. This
is not unknown terriotry (sp?) if you pay attention to the spoke
interlace and induce elbows there at the wheelbuild your wheels will
be stable, strong and tough without resort to excess weight in the
rim.
> I am impressed
> with it. The triangular cross-sectional shapes used by Velocity
> really work well.
>
> I have not yet used the Dyad on my own bikes, because I generally
> won't use a rim that light when there are heavier alternatives
> available. But I am looking forward to an opportunity to try out the
> new Velocity Chukker for myself.
There is nothing to stop you using such a rim (ahem), just dont go
over bumps, turn corners or brake and you'll be fine. I suspect that
the Dyad would work well for your mass if used with 36, 14swg spokes
and assembled using my technique.
Thanks for the 'pointer' (yuck yuk). I was not aware that that
particular brand even existed.
pH
14 gauge, straight and I'm 275 or so.
pH
Well, *that* site is bookmarked. Thanks for the pointer.
pH
<snip>
>
>
> Dyad, 48h and 27 inch.
>
I've seen these on Peter White's website. They don't seem to have
eyelets.
I thought that was a less desirable thing than having them.
They are also triangular cross-section and I'm looking for old-school
box (but not so
much that I would not mind triying a Dyad anyway.)
....any port in a storm.
Thanks for the reply. I think I have sufficient info to let the
thread pass on now.
Thanks for the help, everyone.
pH
> The Dyad is a tough rim, too. I can't figure out why it seems to hold
> up so well-- it's not heavy enough (about 500g), it has no eyelets,
> it's made from weak alloy, and it even looks like cheap OEM stuff.
> But it stays true under some respectably heavy use. I am impressed
> with it. The triangular cross-sectional shapes used by Velocity
> really work well.
>
The rim on the Tour Easy is a 32H Dyad....it looks exactly as you
describe and gives me the same impression! Glad to know that they are
actually tough.
pH
> On Oct 19, 9:51 pm, Michael Press <rub...@pacbell.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > At the moment, the only really good tires I am aware of that are still
> > > made in the 27" size are Panaracer Pasela and Michelin World Tour.
> >
> > Add Serfas to the list.
> > <http://www.rei.com/product/724621>
> >
>
> Thanks for the 'pointer' (yuck yuk). I was not aware that that
> particular brand even existed.
I should have mentioned that I have run these
for years on ISO 630 rims (27") and unconditionally
recommend them. They ride well and grip well.
--
Michael Press
That is more than adequate in a 32 count, with a 36 count wheel you
could use 15swg, this is about the limit. A low cost rim should also
be good, anything over about 460g. I'm thinking a double wall rim
because I think you would prefer a wider tyre and a double wall has
greater torsional stability which should help when cornering to
maintain directional stability. Because you are taking these
wheels to what I think would be their limits in terms of stability,
the build has to be good. I recommend that elbows are formed at the
interlace so that all the extension in the spoke is due to material
stretching rather than straightening the bend. If your wheel failures
have been due to spokes snapping at the manufacturers elbow, it is
because they have been bending in service. You can use standard
wheels with the spoke corrections I suggest.
Looks like we have it sorted. Make sure the spokes attatching the rim
are 14sg and put in the elbows at the interleaves as I suggest. Two
thin levers between the spokes and rotate them to twist the spokes
around each other making the change in angle from where the spoke
leaves the nipple to where it abuts the flange to be made in the
shortest distance. Stick on a big tyre and check that your bottom
spoke is maintaining some tension with the wheel stressed at twice
your weight. Oh yes and add a drop of threadlock to each nipple.
I wonder if Trev realizes that the Tour Easy is a LWB 'bent that puts
about 65% of the weight on the rear wheel when ridden unladen, and
75-80% with loaded rear panniers (the under-seat rack is a good way to
move the load forward)?
--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
"Serfas" is a 're-brander', not a manufacturer. The tires Mr.Press
refers to are made in Taiwan by Cheng Shen, who sell their tires under
the CST (Cheng Shen Tires) and Maxxis brands. They also make tires
sold by Bike Nashbar, Performance Bicycle, Wal-Mart, and several
others. They make decent tires, IMO, but the ones marketed by Serfas
are at the upper end of the price ladder (IOW, some would say they are
overpriced, since one can find the same tires under a different name
for less money
IMO, the Panaracer Paselas are the most desirable 27" tires.
No I hadn't 'realised'. The 15swg x 36 spoke selection was based on a
60% bias with light luggage for 275lb rider. So 14swgx 36 spokes
would be fine. I'm not sure whether 32x 14swg would be OK I suspect
it may be marginal. may do the assessment later. To make an accurate
assessment a proper measured axle loading is required. It would help
in this case.
> On Oct 20, 9:08 pm, pH <purehe...@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > On Oct 19, 9:51 pm, Michael Press <rub...@pacbell.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > > At the moment, the only really good tires I am aware of that are still
> > > > made in the 27" size are Panaracer Pasela and Michelin World Tour.
> >
> > > Add Serfas to the list.
> > > <http://www.rei.com/product/724621>
> >
> > Thanks for the 'pointer' (yuck yuk). I was not aware that that
> > particular brand even existed.
>
> "Serfas" is a 're-brander', not a manufacturer. The tires Mr.Press
> refers to are made in Taiwan by Cheng Shen, who sell their tires under
> the CST (Cheng Shen Tires) and Maxxis brands. They also make tires
> sold by Bike Nashbar, Performance Bicycle, Wal-Mart, and several
> others. They make decent tires, IMO, but the ones marketed by Serfas
> are at the upper end of the price ladder (IOW, some would say they are
> overpriced, since one can find the same tires under a different name
> for less money
>
> IMO, the Panaracer Paselas are the most desirable 27" tires.
Show me the Serfas tire sold under a different label.
I am always ready for another source. $22 for the
Serfas tire at REI. Good price, widely available. The
Panaracer Paselas have tread relief, making them less
desirable. How much do the Panaracer Pasela 630s sell
for in a brick and mortar store in your area?
Here is a black and tan Panaracer Pasela at REI for $32.
<http://www.rei.com/product/764318>
--
Michael Press
heh... I think I'm totally sold on buying tires online. Just picked up
a folding 700c Pasela at my LBS because a) I wanted one and b) I was
having my bike checked over anyway.
Good news: apparently I'm not completely incompetent, guy only charged
me $30, spent probably half an hour going over it, told me that I'd set
the cable wrong on the front derailleur (but it was working - I'll have
to look and see how he routed it) and he tightened the bottom bracket
(that doesn't surprise me, I was going to check that anyway.) I just
wanted a pro to check it out before I headed out for a long ride to make
sure I didn't do something stupid that was going to kill me (or leave me
with all-over road rash or whatever.)
Bad news: a folding Pasela at my LBS is $48, or appx. 2x what I can get
it for online.
Meh: because the guy's cool, I don't mind buying one silly overpriced
tire if it helps them keep their doors open so they're there when I need
them.
Hi Mr. S.:
An underseat rack is on my wish list.
A more immediate desire is some sort of "handlebar bag" that will fit
in the little front triangle in the frame (if you are familiar with
Tour Easys.) That will also help move the weight forward, at least a
few pounds (lock, cable, tools, patch kit, tube(s))
pH
(I try to keep around four tires on hand normal wear plus the
occasional catastophic cut, etc. seems to make that a good number to
go though in less than two years.)
>
> > pH
>
> > > > So-
Does anyone know if this is a defect or by design (to accomodate disk
wheels, say)?
pH
Doesn't sound right. Sure it's a symmetric Dyad not an
asymmetric Aerohead OC or a Synergy OC?
http://www.yellowjersey.org/velrmrd.html
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Found one: <http://yhst-47247727169818.stores.yahoo.net/earafrbag.html>.
Thank-you for this link! Yay!
pH
Colour me red....I had not read the label...it *is* a "Velocity
Aerohead".
Re-reading your post....lemme go out and see if it seays "OC"
anywhere.....
Ah, yes...it does have "OC" within the halves of an infinity symbol
(figure '8' lying on its side).
You guys know everything around here.
Thanks!
pH
Thanks for setting me straight. I think an asymmetric rim is a great
idea since it allows less dishing
: ( that means less spaghetti.
Ozark?
--
Michael Press
Last time I looked, the Nashbar Prima branded 27" tires were the same
Cheng Shen tires as the Serfas branded 27" tires. I believe we had
this conversation previously (2007?).
> > I am always ready for another source. $22 for the
> > Serfas tire at REI. Good price, widely available. The
> > Panaracer Paselas have tread relief, making them less
> > desirable.
Less desirable according to Brandt the Great and Mighty?
> How much do the Panaracer Pasela 630s sell
> > for in a brick and mortar store in your area?
I don't think any area bike shops sell 27" Paselas.
>
> > Here is a black and tan Panaracer Pasela at REI for $32.
> > <http://www.rei.com/product/764318>
$32 for a Pasela is definitely on the high side. They are available on
line for far less.
IMO, buying tires at a 'brick and mortar' store is foolish.
>
> Ozark?
>
> --
> Michael Press
Regular $24.99, now $19.99 plus shipping.
<http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductPopupView?catalogId=10052&storeId=10053&productId=175385&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=201492&top_category=10000#>
> I believe we had
> this conversation previously (2007?).
Do not remember.
>>> I am always ready for another source. $22 for the
>>> Serfas tire at REI. Good price, widely available. The
>>> Panaracer Paselas have tread relief, making them less
>>> desirable.
>
> Less desirable according to Brandt the Great and Mighty?
What do you think I am talking about?
>> How much do the Panaracer Pasela 630s sell
>>> for in a brick and mortar store in your area?
>
> I don't think any area bike shops sell 27" Paselas.
>>
>>> Here is a black and tan Panaracer Pasela at REI for $32.
>>> <http://www.rei.com/product/764318>
>
> $32 for a Pasela is definitely on the high side. They are available on
> line for far less.
Care to cite a web site?
> IMO, buying tires at a 'brick and mortar' store is foolish.
Works for me.
--
Michael Press
where buy tires ? Frogalot ?
I read the Pasela rider stocks spares
interesting paradox: rider wants extra wheel strength from 12 spokes
on several evolutionary tire retrogrades.
EG, Conti stopped making 27" TT years before the wharehouse ran out.
5-7 years ?
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=178263&cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Bike%20Parts-_-Panaracer-_-PA-PSL&mr:referralID=54ebf452-c37c-11de-9c03-000423bb4e79
I have no problem buying things at a 'brick and mortar' store, as it makes
it more likely that they'll still be there when I need something that can't
be gotten on line.
Kerry
Yep, $19.99 less whatever promotion/discount coupon, etc., Nashbar is
flogging at the moment. Note that those 27" Nashbar Prima tires are
regularly available for a net of <$15.00 ( + shipping, of course). The
non-belted version, when available, is less.
<http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductPopupView?
catalogId=10052&storeId...>
>
> > I believe we had
> > this conversation previously (2007?).
>
> Do not remember.
Refresh your memory:
>
> >>> I am always ready for another source. $22 for the
> >>> Serfas tire at REI. Good price, widely available. The
> >>> Panaracer Paselas have tread relief, making them less
> >>> desirable.
>
> > Less desirable according to Brandt the Great and Mighty?
>
> What do you think I am talking about?
The longstanding Brandt Rant to the effect that tire tread is 'evil'.
>
> >> How much do the Panaracer Pasela 630s sell
> >>> for in a brick and mortar store in your area?
>
> > I don't think any area bike shops sell 27" Paselas.
>
> >>> Here is a black and tan Panaracer Pasela at REI for $32.
> >>> <http://www.rei.com/product/764318>
>
> > $32 for a Pasela is definitely on the high side. They are available on
> > line for far less.
>
> Care to cite a web site?
Google is your friend.
>
> > IMO, buying tires at a 'brick and mortar' store is foolish.
>
> Works for me.
>
Why am I not surprised?
Okay.
> > >>> I am always ready for another source. $22 for the
> > >>> Serfas tire at REI. Good price, widely available. The
> > >>> Panaracer Paselas have tread relief, making them less
> > >>> desirable.
> >
> > > Less desirable according to Brandt the Great and Mighty?
> >
> > What do you think I am talking about?
>
> The longstanding Brandt Rant to the effect that tire tread is 'evil'.
I am not.
> > >> How much do the Panaracer Pasela 630s sell
> > >>> for in a brick and mortar store in your area?
> >
> > > I don't think any area bike shops sell 27" Paselas.
> >
> > >>> Here is a black and tan Panaracer Pasela at REI for $32.
> > >>> <http://www.rei.com/product/764318>
> >
> > > $32 for a Pasela is definitely on the high side. They are available on
> > > line for far less.
> >
> > Care to cite a web site?
>
> Google is your friend.
No, it is not.
>
> >
> > > IMO, buying tires at a 'brick and mortar' store is foolish.
> >
> > Works for me.
>
> Why am I not surprised?
Ask one of your friends.
--
Michael Press
Unless you otherwise have a bare rim, a $14 tyre and twenty miles to
go.
My generation used to say "don't trust any one [tire] under 30"
Andy I thought you were of the generation that said "Don't trust
anyone OVER 30."
I don't delude myself into thinking that these are the best tires I
could possibly buy
http://www.ebikestop.com/panaracer_pasela_700x32c_blacktan_steel-TR2239.php
but they're only a little heavier than the folders, and might actually
ride better due to not having the anti-puncture belt under the tread.
I'm using the 700x32c folders on one bike, and 700x28c folders on
another, and have no complaints. I suppose if I were racing I might
want a faster, grippier tire and if I were riding cross-country I
might want some Schwalbe or something, but for JRA they're more than
adequate - I actually have no complaints about them. In a pinch, I
certainly wouldn't feel like I was getting a consolation prize if I
had to "settle" for a wire bead, non-belted Pasela...
nate
Forgot to mention, I called LBS and asked if they carried Paselas, the
mechanic said "sure we do, those are my favorite tire." So it's not
just us...
nate
the 32mm unbelted Pasela is great, regardless of price. The steel bead
makes it easy to mount. Aramid beads are nice for a spare, but not
worth the price premium for most of us.
If your using panniers a steel wired tyre can roll up to go in there.
My experiences with more flexible wires makes me believe they are over
fussy fo rthe majority of users to enjoy a safe ride.
For what it's worth, I have found no other tire _at any price_ that
rides as sweetly as the unbelted Panaracer Pasela. There may be more
supple tires in sub-28mm sizes I can't use, but it's difficult to
imagine that any of them could make up for their lack of height with
better feel than this.
Chalo