info
Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
how to joint inner gear cable (wire)
48 views
Skip to first unread message
Emanuel Berg
Jul 27, 2015, 8:40:32 PM7/27/15
to
Today, I did this by first removing the damaged part
with a pair of nippers, and then squeezing the wires
together first with my fingers and then a pair of
pliers - both ends, into tight hooks that looked like
very sharp letters "v". Once put together, around and
around, I rotated some thin steel (?) string that
I found. The loops didn't get on top of each other but
were packed closely, back-to-back, for ~0.75 cm on
each side of the point where the wires hooked. Last,
I put vulcanizing tape around everything to keep water
(ice) from getting in.
What do you think of this method?
What do yo do?
--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
with a pair of nippers, and then squeezing the wires
together first with my fingers and then a pair of
pliers - both ends, into tight hooks that looked like
very sharp letters "v". Once put together, around and
around, I rotated some thin steel (?) string that
I found. The loops didn't get on top of each other but
were packed closely, back-to-back, for ~0.75 cm on
each side of the point where the wires hooked. Last,
I put vulcanizing tape around everything to keep water
(ice) from getting in.
What do you think of this method?
What do yo do?
--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
James
Jul 27, 2015, 9:38:02 PM7/27/15
to
--
JS
David Scheidt
Jul 27, 2015, 10:16:29 PM7/27/15
to
Emanuel Berg <embe...@student.uu.se> wrote:
:Today, I did this by first removing the damaged part
:What do yo do?
Buy a new cable, well before they break.
--
sig 97
:Today, I did this by first removing the damaged part
:with a pair of nippers, and then squeezing the wires
:together first with my fingers and then a pair of
:pliers - both ends, into tight hooks that looked like
:very sharp letters "v". Once put together, around and
:around, I rotated some thin steel (?) string that
:I found. The loops didn't get on top of each other but
:were packed closely, back-to-back, for ~0.75 cm on
:each side of the point where the wires hooked. Last,
:I put vulcanizing tape around everything to keep water
:(ice) from getting in.
:What do you think of this method?
Handy to get to a bike store where you can buy a new cable.
:together first with my fingers and then a pair of
:pliers - both ends, into tight hooks that looked like
:very sharp letters "v". Once put together, around and
:around, I rotated some thin steel (?) string that
:I found. The loops didn't get on top of each other but
:were packed closely, back-to-back, for ~0.75 cm on
:each side of the point where the wires hooked. Last,
:I put vulcanizing tape around everything to keep water
:(ice) from getting in.
:What do you think of this method?
:What do yo do?
Buy a new cable, well before they break.
--
sig 97
Frank Krygowski
Jul 27, 2015, 11:19:11 PM7/27/15
to
The only time I've tried joining cables was when a cable broke far from
home, and the replacement cable I carried was too short. Since then, my
touring bike always has a spare extra-long cable in its saddle bag.
--
- Frank Krygowski
John B. Slocomb
Jul 28, 2015, 7:15:07 AM7/28/15
to
--
cheers,
John B.
avag...@gmail.com
Jul 28, 2015, 7:41:04 AM7/28/15
to
https://goo.gl/UJkMNR
https://www.google.com/search?site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1231&bih=559&q=working+rope+book+5&oq=WORKING+ROPE&gs_l=img.1.4.0i8i30l4j0i24.3091.5673.0.9247.12.10.0.2.2.0.240.1420.0j7j1.8.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..2.10.1469.VNDX9D5Fb38
http://www.bing.com/search?q=Splicing+Small+Gauge+Wire&FORM=R5FD
Splicing Small Gauge Wire
https://www.google.com/search?q=splicing+small+gauge+wire&biw=1231&bih=559&site=imghp&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAGoVChMIzNH-ktz9xgIVQR0-Ch2ynADC&dpr=1.3
what you're pursuing is Mechanics 101. The work is good for your brain and hands.
Mechanically joining two lines is organic rope, fencing, or larger diameter stranded metal wire or cable eg bulldozer heavy equipment good to know for towing tho the fabric belt is better for light vehicles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+rope+work+called&biw=1231&bih=559&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI4vDCyd39xgIVhnQ-Ch1P1QDK#tbm=isch&q=marlinspike+seamanship+knots
What you have will unravel.
Why is this ? figure where the force goes as wires pull.
Soldering is impossible. Stranding holds grease upstream of flux/solder then heat draws grease down into the soldering area leaving a cold joint.
Larger diameter cable splicing is done with multiple u-bolts along the splice with each u-bolt adding x friction until the total pull force is held with the additive u bolt friction
Message has been deleted
David Scheidt
Jul 28, 2015, 12:20:09 PM7/28/15
to
Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk> wrote:
:If I was forced to extend a cable (maybe as a distress technique on a
:tandem), I'd do something similar to what you did, but with the
:addition of solder. I'm not sure what the purpose of keeping water
:out is - any decent gear cable is stainless.
Lots of galvanized cables about. they're a lot cheaper. Doesn't
matter to most of us, because the absolute difference is small, but to
the manufacturer, it saves a few bucks a bike.
--
sig 56
:If I was forced to extend a cable (maybe as a distress technique on a
:tandem), I'd do something similar to what you did, but with the
:addition of solder. I'm not sure what the purpose of keeping water
:out is - any decent gear cable is stainless.
Lots of galvanized cables about. they're a lot cheaper. Doesn't
matter to most of us, because the absolute difference is small, but to
the manufacturer, it saves a few bucks a bike.
--
sig 56
Emanuel Berg
Jul 28, 2015, 5:08:26 PM7/28/15
to
Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk> writes:
> Replace it. If it's damaged in the middle ...
No, it was damaged (frilly) at the end, but when I cut
away that part, the cable wasn't long enough.
So I used parts of another cable to prolong it.
> If I was forced to extend a cable (maybe as
> a distress technique on a tandem), I'd do something
> similar to what you did, but with the addition of
> solder. I'm not sure what the purpose of keeping
> water out is - any decent gear cable is stainless.
OK - how can you detect this? There are two cables
involved, and the string. But stain isn't the main
reason to do it but rather, if water gets in,
and especially if it turns into ice, it may break
the repair.
Here in Uppsala (at 59.9°N 17.6°E) water/ice is
a problem (probably where some of you guys live as
well). For example the outer cables are very keen on
cracking. Vulc tape is often used there as well to
prevent water from getting in, by sealing
those cracks.
> Replace it. If it's damaged in the middle ...
No, it was damaged (frilly) at the end, but when I cut
away that part, the cable wasn't long enough.
So I used parts of another cable to prolong it.
> If I was forced to extend a cable (maybe as
> a distress technique on a tandem), I'd do something
> similar to what you did, but with the addition of
> solder. I'm not sure what the purpose of keeping
> water out is - any decent gear cable is stainless.
involved, and the string. But stain isn't the main
reason to do it but rather, if water gets in,
and especially if it turns into ice, it may break
the repair.
Here in Uppsala (at 59.9°N 17.6°E) water/ice is
a problem (probably where some of you guys live as
well). For example the outer cables are very keen on
cracking. Vulc tape is often used there as well to
prevent water from getting in, by sealing
those cracks.
Sir Ridesalot
Jul 28, 2015, 7:03:37 PM7/28/15
to
Cheers
Frank Krygowski
Jul 28, 2015, 10:10:57 PM7/28/15
to
On 7/28/2015 5:06 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
> Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk> writes:
>
>> Replace it. If it's damaged in the middle ...
>
> No, it was damaged (frilly) at the end, but when I cut
> away that part, the cable wasn't long enough.
> So I used parts of another cable to prolong it.
How long did it take you to make that repair, compared with just
> Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk> writes:
>
>> Replace it. If it's damaged in the middle ...
>
> No, it was damaged (frilly) at the end, but when I cut
> away that part, the cable wasn't long enough.
> So I used parts of another cable to prolong it.
replacing the cable?
What is the cost of a new cable?
Have you figured out how much money you're saving per hour? I imagine
your effective wage is very low.
--
- Frank Krygowski
John B. Slocomb
Jul 29, 2015, 8:26:10 AM7/29/15
to
the last two cables I bought but it was literally "pocket change". I
usually buy both shift and brake cables two at a time and keep spares
in the tool box.
As for water getting into the cable, You must be using the old
fashioned (cheap) coiled wire outer housing as all the cables I use
have a plastic liner and are stainless.
Again re water: It used to be that there were cable greasing fittings
that clamped around the cable on one end and the housing on the other
and had a grease fitting on the side. Once you had the thing clamped
around the end of a cable you could force grease through the cable and
thus both remove any moisture and lubricate the cable.
Although mostly used on motorcycles I believe.
--
cheers,
John B.
John B. Slocomb
Jul 29, 2015, 8:35:53 PM7/29/15
to
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 23:48:37 +0100, Phil W Lee <ph...@lee-family.me.uk>
wrote:
>John B. Slocomb <johnbs...@geemail.com> considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
>I have one of them - an hydraulic cable oiler.
>It would only take minutes to knock one up on a lathe.
I have also seen a "oil fitting" on (I think) an early motorcycle that
was a tiny clamp on device with a spring loaded valve to allow
squirting oil into the brake cable.
But today's bicycle cables usually have a plastic lining and I have
even seen plastic coated inner cables and I'm not sure if there is any
advantage to oiling a plastic coated, or lined, cable :-)
--
cheers,
John B.
wrote:
>John B. Slocomb <johnbs...@geemail.com> considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
>It would only take minutes to knock one up on a lathe.
I have also seen a "oil fitting" on (I think) an early motorcycle that
was a tiny clamp on device with a spring loaded valve to allow
squirting oil into the brake cable.
But today's bicycle cables usually have a plastic lining and I have
even seen plastic coated inner cables and I'm not sure if there is any
advantage to oiling a plastic coated, or lined, cable :-)
--
cheers,
John B.
Sir Ridesalot
Jul 29, 2015, 8:47:42 PM7/29/15
to
Cheers
Emanuel Berg
Jul 29, 2015, 11:24:42 PM7/29/15
to
John B. Slocomb <johnbs...@geemail.com> writes:
> As for water getting into the cable, You must be
> using the old fashioned (cheap) coiled wire outer
> housing as all the cables I use have a plastic liner
> and are stainless.
There is an outer cable which is plastic and it
> As for water getting into the cable, You must be
> using the old fashioned (cheap) coiled wire outer
> housing as all the cables I use have a plastic liner
> and are stainless.
contains a steel (?) spiral and inside of that is the
inner cable. The outer cable very often cracks and you
see the rusty spiral below. The cracks are sealed with
vulc tape and this doesn't require a lot of tape as
the cracks are typically small. Then what people do is
have an oil pan and drip along the inner cable, and
then pull it through the outer cable and then
back again.
David Scheidt
Jul 29, 2015, 11:48:41 PM7/29/15
to
Emanuel Berg <embe...@student.uu.se> wrote:
Are they opposed to having things that aren't bodged?
A new housing isn't expensive, and modern housings dont' do that.
--
sig 125
A new housing isn't expensive, and modern housings dont' do that.
--
sig 125
James
Jul 30, 2015, 12:00:43 AM7/30/15
to
--
JS
avag...@gmail.com
Jul 30, 2015, 7:38:19 AM7/30/15
to
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi
BERGOID HOOOKED main wires then shrouded with a wire coil
hooks pull wider from elbow forcing shroud apart....
BTTDB
multiple compression fittings, ubolts, around straight overlaps
AMuzi
Jul 30, 2015, 8:25:03 AM7/30/15
to
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
John B. Slocomb
Jul 30, 2015, 8:27:13 AM7/30/15
to
mistaken although I don't believe I ever saw a cracked cable housing
although that is not to say it couldn't happen. If it is a real
problem then why not just buy some proper bicycle cables. But do note
that the shift and brake cables are different in construction which
can make a difference. But over here, at least, bike shops have reels
of cable housings and sell it by the metre. In fact I just bought two
brake and two shift cables and one metre of shift housing. I don't
remember the price but they weren't expensive.
And yes it used to be a monthly practice to oil the brake cables on my
motorcycle but that was years ago :-)
--
cheers,
John B.
Emanuel Berg
Jul 30, 2015, 6:52:14 PM7/30/15
to
John B. Slocomb <johnbs...@geemail.com> writes:
> You seem to be describing very low end bicycle
> cables if I am not mistaken although I don't believe
> I ever saw a cracked cable housing although that is
> not to say it couldn't happen.
No, that happens all the time! I have several buckets
> You seem to be describing very low end bicycle
> cables if I am not mistaken although I don't believe
> I ever saw a cracked cable housing although that is
> not to say it couldn't happen.
of cables and virtually all have two or three cracks.
It can get really cold here in the winters (tho last
winter was a disappointment) and people have their
bikes outside all winter and some don't use them all
that much that season, so I suspect this is when the
plastic fails.
avag...@gmail.com
Jul 31, 2015, 8:37:05 AM7/31/15
to
0 new messages