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Combination bicycle locks.

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Ian Field

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Jun 26, 2016, 1:08:05 PM6/26/16
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On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire combination
lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.

It took me just a couple of minutes to release it - seriously, does anyone
still buy this crap?!!!

If I find a bicycle slung in the bushes, that lock will do to secure it till
I have time to recover it - but for the bicycle I use, no way!

Frank Krygowski

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Jun 26, 2016, 3:56:38 PM6/26/16
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I wouldn't use one.

But OTOH, what I use almost all the time is a tiny key lock in
conjunction with a thin plastic-coated cable. I suspect any wire
cutters could get through this thing, yet I've never had a bike stolen.

I think the key is to not park a bike in a really vulnerable spot. If
you choose your spot well, almost any lock will do.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Ian Field

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Jun 26, 2016, 4:08:32 PM6/26/16
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"Frank Krygowski" <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:nkpc1k$4sh$1...@dont-email.me...
The chain I use was liberated from the fence round a commercial property. It
was used to secure various motorcycles till I got around to buying a proper
Oxford brand chain.

Now its used on the bicycle, I sometimes get comments that the chain is
worth more than the bike.

The bike has a light alloy frame - so I'll keep on bodging it as long as I
can get away with.

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 26, 2016, 4:33:01 PM6/26/16
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On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 18:08:04 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire combination
>lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.

It's not from a stolen bicycle. A good bicycle thief doesn't leave
evidence behind, which means he takes the lock, which would be full of
his fingerprints. The bike rack in front of a local small office
building has about 5-10 locks hanging from it. They're owned by
various bicycle commuters that believe that two locks is the answer to
security. However, they don't want to drag the lock back and forth
each day during their commute, so they just leave one or both attached
to the rack.

>It took me just a couple of minutes to release it - seriously, does anyone
>still buy this crap?!!!
>
>If I find a bicycle slung in the bushes, that lock will do to secure it till
>I have time to recover it - but for the bicycle I use, no way!

Bicycle combination locks are fairly easy to open. Lots of YouTube
videos on how it's done:
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=open+bicycle+combination+lock>
<https://www.youtube.com/user/bosnianbill>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqMbNOYtiEg&list=RDjqMbNOYtiEg>
I've been tinkering with amateur lock picking for years, but never
have become very good at it. Still, I can pick most bicycle
combination locks fairly easily.

Unfortunately, the weak link is not the lock but the cable. I built a
small Li-Ion battery powered hand grinder and cut off tool, that can
slice through a cable lock in 10-35 seconds. Covered by a jacket, it
can barely be heard nearby. Many cable locks are mostly plastic which
can be easily nibbled apart with wire cutters or maybe a pipe cutter.

Maybe a Titanium lock?
<https://tigrlock.com>
<https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tigrlock/tigr-titanium-lock-as-cool-as-your-bike/description>
$100 to $200.


--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Sir Ridesalot

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Jun 26, 2016, 4:50:38 PM6/26/16
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Perhaps the bicyclist just left the lock there so they'd not have to carry it or so they wouldn't forget it?

Finding a bicyle and not reporting it to police but keeping it for oneself is still in the eyes of the law theft or at best being in possession of stolen property ifthe bicycle is found to be stolen.

Cheers

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 26, 2016, 5:10:40 PM6/26/16
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On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 13:50:36 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
<i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote:

>Perhaps the bicyclist just left the lock there so they'd
>not have to carry it or so they wouldn't forget it?

I suspect it's a mix of various reasons. I know two of the commuters
involved. Both believe in the 2 lock system for security. Neither
wants to carry the lock on their commute. At home, the bicycle
doesn't need a lock, so it's easy enough to leave it at work. They
would probably keep it in their respective offices, except that they
have to go up the elevator to retrieve the lock every time they arrive
at work. It's easier to just leave it attached to the rack.

One overweight chain lock is owned by a local itinerant bicycle
repairman. His method of operation is to leave various repaired and
to be repaired parts and pieces attached to the racks with a cable
lock, where his customers can pick them up. He has such locks all
over town. Some are marked with his name, but most are not.

>Finding a bicyle and not reporting it to police but keeping
>it for oneself is still in the eyes of the law theft or
>at best being in possession of stolen property if the
>bicycle is found to be stolen.

That assumes that the bicycle is largely intact. My palatial office
is fairly close to several homeless encampment. Bicycle thievery in
the area is epidemic. Although I suspect it varies with the thief, a
few break down the bicycle to parts, and just sell the parts, which I
presume is safer if discovered. Over the years, I've found numerous
bicycle carcasses, with most everything that could easily be removed
gone. Most are "department store" quality and not worth taking.
However, I once spotted a nice mtn bike frame attached to the bike
rack in front of a restaurant. Only the frame was left, but it was my
size, and looked interesting. I inquired at the restaurant but nobody
claimed it. The local police often eat at the restaurant, so I asked
one of them if they didn't mind if I take the bicycle. They said, no
problem. I grabbed it the next day. Unfortunately, my evaluation of
the frame quality was lacking, and I found it to be worthless. I
donated it to the local recycler, who built it up into a sellable
bicycle:
<http://bikechurch.santacruzhub.org>
Unless the found bicycle was complete, or mostly complete, I don't
think the police care. Is it theft, or helping keep the streets and
sidewalks clean?

Ian Field

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Jun 26, 2016, 5:28:35 PM6/26/16
to


"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:7kc0nbd6u5lesu8s4...@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 18:08:04 +0100, "Ian Field"
> <gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire combination
>>lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.
>
> It's not from a stolen bicycle. A good bicycle thief doesn't leave
> evidence behind, which means he takes the lock, which would be full of
> his fingerprints.

A bicycle thief would at best discard the lock by throwing it on the ground,
and certainly not re-lock it.

Either way, I've done someone a favour - they're now reflecting on how lucky
it was their bicycle hadn't been secured by such an easy lock.

John B.

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Jun 26, 2016, 9:11:26 PM6/26/16
to
You are replying to a fellow who took a week or more to make his
V-Brakes to work (if he ever did) and can open a bike lock "just a
couple of minutes". One can only speculate on how he developed these
skills.


--
cheers,

John B.

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 26, 2016, 9:32:18 PM6/26/16
to
On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 22:28:32 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
>news:7kc0nbd6u5lesu8s4...@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 18:08:04 +0100, "Ian Field"
>> <gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire combination
>>>lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.
>>
>> It's not from a stolen bicycle. A good bicycle thief doesn't leave
>> evidence behind, which means he takes the lock, which would be full of
>> his fingerprints.

>A bicycle thief would at best discard the lock by throwing it on the ground,
>and certainly not re-lock it.

As neither of us are likely to be an actual bicycle thief, I suspect
our speculations on the thought processes of a real bicycle thief
might be somewhat lacking. In this case, methinks that you're making
a bad assumption, that the bicycle lock was left attached to the
supermarket bicycle rack for no useful reason. Please re-read what I
scribbled for several good reasons.

It would appear that it's common in the UK, although some people seem
to have found ways to abuse the practice:
<http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/leaving-a-lock-attached-to-a-bike-rack-or-similar.95429/>

>Either way, I've done someone a favour - they're now reflecting on how lucky
>it was their bicycle hadn't been secured by such an easy lock.

I suspect otherwise. My guess(tm) is that a supermarket employee will
arrive to work tomorrow and find their bicycle lock not where they
left it.

John B.

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Jun 26, 2016, 9:39:01 PM6/26/16
to
On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 13:32:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:
You can buy a battery operated 4" angle grinder for $50.00 on e-bay
and titanium cuts about like 304 stainless :-) They also work well for
opening a safe.
Or you can buy a "snap gun" for as low as $17 or $18. :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_YgCw4oA00

--
cheers,

John B.

Frank Krygowski

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Jun 26, 2016, 9:50:22 PM6/26/16
to
On 6/26/2016 5:10 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 13:50:36 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
> <i_am_cyc...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the bicyclist just left the lock there so they'd
>> not have to carry it or so they wouldn't forget it?
>
> I suspect it's a mix of various reasons. I know two of the commuters
> involved. Both believe in the 2 lock system for security. Neither
> wants to carry the lock on their commute. At home, the bicycle
> doesn't need a lock, so it's easy enough to leave it at work. They
> would probably keep it in their respective offices, except that they
> have to go up the elevator to retrieve the lock every time they arrive
> at work. It's easier to just leave it attached to the rack.
>
> One overweight chain lock is owned by a local itinerant bicycle
> repairman. His method of operation is to leave various repaired and
> to be repaired parts and pieces attached to the racks with a cable
> lock, where his customers can pick them up. He has such locks all
> over town. Some are marked with his name, but most are not.

There's an awful lot of this going on in Paris at this bridge!
http://www.magazinetimepass.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/pont-des-arts-love-locks-bridge-paris-04.jpg

:-)

--
- Frank Krygowski

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 26, 2016, 10:49:05 PM6/26/16
to
On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:38:57 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
wrote:

>You can buy a battery operated 4" angle grinder for $50.00 on e-bay
>and titanium cuts about like 304 stainless :-) They also work well for
>opening a safe.

I have a Makita 9500D 4" cordless angle grinder.
<http://www.makitapowertoolsonline.com/Cordless-Tools/Makita-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-9500D.html>
They claim 6500 rpm no load. I've never bothered to measure the rpm
or the power delivered under load, but it's not enough for "bypassing"
locks. The 7.2v NiCd battery is gutless and the depressed center
cutoff wheels have a very limited maximum rpm.

The newer 18v LiIon powered Makita Model XAG01Z 4.5" at 10,000 rpm
might be suitable, but it's looks too big, heavy, and expensive.
<http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XAG01Z>

Most of the power is lost in the right angle gearbox, so I decided to
build my own. Sorry, no photos or details. I think the unloaded rpm
is about 12,000 rpm, but the delivered power is much more than the
common cordless power tools. The thin abrasive discs I'm using are
rated at about 33,000 rpm maximum. Under load, I measured >25A drain
from a model car battery at 11.5VDC. I can go higher rpm and power,
but I'll need a bigger battery, better bearings, and some way to cool
the motor. Unless I break the cutoff wheel, water (or antifreeze)
mist injection keeps it cool enough to easily double its expected
life.

>Or you can buy a "snap gun" for as low as $17 or $18. :-)
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_YgCw4oA00

I've been tempted to buy one of those, but since I consider lock
picking to be a sport, I simply bought a lock picking tool set and a
few cutaway practice locks. If I wanted to do this professionally, I
would probably buy one.

Titanium work hardens nicely when you try to cut it. That's a useful
feature for some applications. It's not very useful when you want to
machine it. I've never had to work with titanium, but I hear its
rather difficult. No clue how it cuts, grinds, or files.

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 26, 2016, 11:00:58 PM6/26/16
to
On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 21:50:18 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>There's an awful lot of this going on in Paris at this bridge!
>http://www.magazinetimepass.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/pont-des-arts-love-locks-bridge-paris-04.jpg

The city ripped it out last year. I would have expected the French to
understand the value of such art (Pont des Arts) but I guess not:
<http://www.cnn.com/2015/05/30/travel/paris-love-locks-bridges-feat/>
Notice that the Pont des Arts had only a few combination locks as they
might symbolize an easily broken relationship.

Fortunately, the British seem to have taken over after the French
dropped the ball.
<http://www.startribune.com/taking-a-cue-from-paris-love-locks-onto-hastings-bridge/384356181/>

Frank Krygowski

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Jun 27, 2016, 10:03:05 AM6/27/16
to
On 6/26/2016 10:49 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> Titanium work hardens nicely when you try to cut it. That's a useful
> feature for some applications. It's not very useful when you want to
> machine it. I've never had to work with titanium, but I hear its
> rather difficult. No clue how it cuts, grinds, or files.

I've never actually worked on the stuff either, but an instructor in our
machine shop lab told of the time that a student mistakenly grabbed a 2"
round bar of titanium instead of the mild steel he was supposed to work
on. The big power hacksaw took some insanely long time to cut through
it, and when he chucked it in a lathe, he kept wrecking high speed steel
tools when trying to cut it, while getting almost no cutting done.

The school's machinist told of machining titanium one day and having the
chips catch fire. Supposedly that was quite exciting.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Frank Krygowski

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Jun 27, 2016, 10:03:47 AM6/27/16
to
On 6/26/2016 11:00 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 21:50:18 -0400, Frank Krygowski
> <frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> There's an awful lot of this going on in Paris at this bridge!
>> http://www.magazinetimepass.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/pont-des-arts-love-locks-bridge-paris-04.jpg
>
> The city ripped it out last year. I would have expected the French to
> understand the value of such art (Pont des Arts) but I guess not:
> <http://www.cnn.com/2015/05/30/travel/paris-love-locks-bridges-feat/>
> Notice that the Pont des Arts had only a few combination locks as they
> might symbolize an easily broken relationship.
>
> Fortunately, the British seem to have taken over after the French
> dropped the ball.
> <http://www.startribune.com/taking-a-cue-from-paris-love-locks-onto-hastings-bridge/384356181/>

Pittsburgh's got a bridge with a small collection of those locks.


--
- Frank Krygowski

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 27, 2016, 10:57:01 AM6/27/16
to
On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 10:03:00 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>On 6/26/2016 10:49 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>
>> Titanium work hardens nicely when you try to cut it. That's a useful
>> feature for some applications. It's not very useful when you want to
>> machine it. I've never had to work with titanium, but I hear its
>> rather difficult. No clue how it cuts, grinds, or files.

>I've never actually worked on the stuff either, but an instructor in our
>machine shop lab told of the time that a student mistakenly grabbed a 2"
>round bar of titanium instead of the mild steel he was supposed to work
>on. The big power hacksaw took some insanely long time to cut through
>it, and when he chucked it in a lathe, he kept wrecking high speed steel
>tools when trying to cut it, while getting almost no cutting done.

That sounds about right. One of the engineers at a former employer
was making titanium push rods for his VW engine in his spare time. He
claimed that the stock rods were designed to bend, thus limited the
high end RPM. He figured that with lighter and stiffer push rods, he
could get more horsepower out of the engine. He spent about 6 months
cursing the material, but eventually made a complete set. By then, I
was off to another job and never found out if they actually worked and
if it was worth the effort and expense.

>The school's machinist told of machining titanium one day and having the
>chips catch fire. Supposedly that was quite exciting.

Spark tests for metal identification:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PWCh6fdXdw>
Titanium starts at 4:58.
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D094eBa4S7c>
Titanium starts at 9:30.

Ian Field

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Jun 27, 2016, 2:16:58 PM6/27/16
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"John B." <slocom...@gmail.xyz> wrote in message
news:4pu0nb5amebs4l8nm...@4ax.com...
By being smarter than you, stooooopid.

Ian Field

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Jun 27, 2016, 2:23:53 PM6/27/16
to


"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:bdv0nb5s92v1taj1t...@4ax.com...
The supermarket has secure areas behind locked gates that an employee could
put their bike.

It would be inconvenient - but not as inconvenient as losing their bike
because the lock they used was completely worthless.

They only lost the lock - and learned not to buy another like it - unless
they're as stupid as john.b.

Ian Field

unread,
Jun 27, 2016, 2:33:03 PM6/27/16
to


"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:vr21nb1qh3ovveco6...@4ax.com...
Buy?!!! - I made my own lock pick hook by grinding an old Stanley knife
blade to the required shape.

A Honda motorcycle had sat on the back yard waiting for an engine, by the
time one turned up I'd lost the steering lock key. A narrow strip of
thinnest feeler gauge edged between the lock barrel and body stopped the
pins going back after I'd lifted them with the DIY hook.

Once unlocked, I could take the barrel out and replace the pins one pair at
a time as I hand cut a new key as I went along.

John B.

unread,
Jun 27, 2016, 7:25:10 PM6/27/16
to
On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 19:49:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:38:57 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
>wrote:
>
>>You can buy a battery operated 4" angle grinder for $50.00 on e-bay
>>and titanium cuts about like 304 stainless :-) They also work well for
>>opening a safe.
>
>I have a Makita 9500D 4" cordless angle grinder.
><http://www.makitapowertoolsonline.com/Cordless-Tools/Makita-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-9500D.html>
>They claim 6500 rpm no load. I've never bothered to measure the rpm
>or the power delivered under load, but it's not enough for "bypassing"
>locks. The 7.2v NiCd battery is gutless and the depressed center
>cutoff wheels have a very limited maximum rpm.

You must have an older one as the new Makita is 10,000 RPM.

Use the 1mm thick flat wheels. I can cut 1/2" steel bar in (probably)
less than 30 seconds.

>The newer 18v LiIon powered Makita Model XAG01Z 4.5" at 10,000 rpm
>might be suitable, but it's looks too big, heavy, and expensive.
><http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=XAG01Z>


>Most of the power is lost in the right angle gearbox, so I decided to
>build my own. Sorry, no photos or details. I think the unloaded rpm
>is about 12,000 rpm, but the delivered power is much more than the
>common cordless power tools. The thin abrasive discs I'm using are
>rated at about 33,000 rpm maximum. Under load, I measured >25A drain
>from a model car battery at 11.5VDC. I can go higher rpm and power,
>but I'll need a bigger battery, better bearings, and some way to cool
>the motor. Unless I break the cutoff wheel, water (or antifreeze)
>mist injection keeps it cool enough to easily double its expected
>life.

Are you talking about the life of the grinding wheel? If so I buy the
4" x 1mm disks for something like a dollar or maybe a few cents more,
a piece.

>
>>Or you can buy a "snap gun" for as low as $17 or $18. :-)
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_YgCw4oA00
>
>I've been tempted to buy one of those, but since I consider lock
>picking to be a sport, I simply bought a lock picking tool set and a
>few cutaway practice locks. If I wanted to do this professionally, I
>would probably buy one.
>
>Titanium work hardens nicely when you try to cut it. That's a useful
>feature for some applications. It's not very useful when you want to
>machine it. I've never had to work with titanium, but I hear its
>rather difficult. No clue how it cuts, grinds, or files.

It does work harden - very quickly. With a sharp drill and an
experienced "operator" you can drill it about the same as stainless.
BUT, if you let the bit slip, even as little as one revolution, you
end up with something that is "hard as glass".

But hard or soft it grinds about the same and cutting it with a 1mm
cutoff wheel is not really a big problem.
(Been there, done that)

--
cheers,

John B.

John B.

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Jun 27, 2016, 8:56:44 PM6/27/16
to
Here is a quote on machining titanium from a machinist group:

onlinemetals was having a sale so I got a foot of 1/2" titanium round
in "grade 2", whatever that is.

I tried it out on the Sherline lathe. The stuff makes stainless steel
look like brass. Never seen anything work harden as fast, or make such
nasty sharp chips that never break off and just make a brillo pad.

Like the folks on the internet say, as long as you don't interrupt
your cut and don't back off on cutting pressure, it's not bad at all.

The real struggle is always with parting off as everythings wants to
slip out of square on the tiny lathe. I measured the thicknes of the
chip that came off with a HSS parting blade at 0.005 when things we
running OK.

I cut with "relion" cutting fluid, and got a little smoke as Ti gets
hot when cutting as it's apparently a bad conductor of heat.

The stuff takes a decent finish and cleans up real nice with fine
sandpaper if you're real forceful.
--
cheers,

John B.

Jeff Liebermann

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Jun 27, 2016, 11:55:57 PM6/27/16
to
On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 06:25:08 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 19:49:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:38:57 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>You can buy a battery operated 4" angle grinder for $50.00 on e-bay
>>>and titanium cuts about like 304 stainless :-) They also work well for
>>>opening a safe.
>>
>>I have a Makita 9500D 4" cordless angle grinder.
>><http://www.makitapowertoolsonline.com/Cordless-Tools/Makita-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-9500D.html>
>>They claim 6500 rpm no load. I've never bothered to measure the rpm
>>or the power delivered under load, but it's not enough for "bypassing"
>>locks. The 7.2v NiCd battery is gutless and the depressed center
>>cutoff wheels have a very limited maximum rpm.
>
>You must have an older one as the new Makita is 10,000 RPM.
>Use the 1mm thick flat wheels. I can cut 1/2" steel bar in (probably)
>less than 30 seconds.

It's quite old, back in the days when specifications actually meant
something. Want to buy a megalumen flashlight? My discs are about 2
mm thick. I broke too many of the 1mm variety.

Various locks versus cutters:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pywN558dJaU>
Cable locks, about 2 seconds.
Chain, 11 seconds.
U-lock versus battery powered angle grinder, about 5 seconds.
The longest time was 70 seconds for a fancy U-lock.

>Are you talking about the life of the grinding wheel?

Yes.

>If so I buy the
>4" x 1mm disks for something like a dollar or maybe a few cents more,
>a piece.

<http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-inch-cut-off-wheels-for-metal-45432.html>
$0.90/ea in packages of 10. They're cheap enough, but I don't like
changing discs in the middle of a job. Somehow, I always manage to
burn my fingers.

A friend called me from a storage locker facility asking for help. He
had lost the key and didn't have any tools with him. If he didn't get
his stuff out immediately, he would be charged for an extra month. He
has a Ryobi battery powered angle grinder, but not much else. So, I
go to the local hardware store and they're out of cutoff discs. I buy
grinding wheels instead, a big mistake. I then find the angle grinder
has two half dead batteries and the nearest AC for charging is about 5
times as far away as my extension cord is long. I should have driven
8 miles home and returned with the right tools, but I decided to give
it a go with the Ryobi. An hour and two grinding wheels later, I was
getting nowhere. The problem was obvious. Instead a nice narrow 1mm
wide kerf, I was gouging a much larger v-shaped chunk out of the lock.
Then I wore out my 3rd and last grinding wheel, I had removed enough
metal that I could finish the job with a hammer. Incidentally, while
we were burglarizing his storage locker, about 20 people drifted by.
Despite the obvious amateurish and crude assault on the lock, nobody
asked what we were doing or bothered to call the police.

>It does work harden - very quickly. With a sharp drill and an
>experienced "operator" you can drill it about the same as stainless.
>BUT, if you let the bit slip, even as little as one revolution, you
>end up with something that is "hard as glass".

I'm told one also has to use a rather slow drilling rpm.

I'm wondering how well the titanium lock does against and angle
grinder?
Most of these videos say it holds up well:
<https://vimeo.com/107618227>
but I don't like the way the tools were used.
These videos say that the TiGr lock is lousy:
<https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/1n13in/the_tigr_lock_is_incredibly_easy_to_break_127/>
(5 seconds).

>But hard or soft it grinds about the same and cutting it with a 1mm
>cutoff wheel is not really a big problem.
>(Been there, done that)

Which means a grinder will work on the TiGr titanium lock.

Well, if titanium isn't good enough, perhaps reactive armor as in tank
armor. For the lock cable, I would use steel or copper tubing filled
with some kind of explosive and some manner of pyrophoric (ignites
when exposed to air) igniter. When someone tries to cut the
cable/tubing, it explodes in their face. As long as the cable/tubing
remains sealed and air tight, it's safe.

Bike Mine:
<http://www.gizmag.com/bike-mine-explosive-alarm/43300/>

John B.

unread,
Jun 28, 2016, 4:29:34 AM6/28/16
to
On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 20:55:49 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 06:25:08 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 19:49:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:38:57 +0700, John B. <slocom...@gmail.xyz>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>You can buy a battery operated 4" angle grinder for $50.00 on e-bay
>>>>and titanium cuts about like 304 stainless :-) They also work well for
>>>>opening a safe.
>>>
>>>I have a Makita 9500D 4" cordless angle grinder.
>>><http://www.makitapowertoolsonline.com/Cordless-Tools/Makita-Cordless-Angle-Grinder-9500D.html>
>>>They claim 6500 rpm no load. I've never bothered to measure the rpm
>>>or the power delivered under load, but it's not enough for "bypassing"
>>>locks. The 7.2v NiCd battery is gutless and the depressed center
>>>cutoff wheels have a very limited maximum rpm.
>>
>>You must have an older one as the new Makita is 10,000 RPM.
>>Use the 1mm thick flat wheels. I can cut 1/2" steel bar in (probably)
>>less than 30 seconds.
>
>It's quite old, back in the days when specifications actually meant
>something. Want to buy a megalumen flashlight? My discs are about 2
>mm thick. I broke too many of the 1mm variety.
>

Megalumin? No but I've got an LED flashlight that states "1500W" right
there in white letters on the body. I assume that this means 1,500
watts. and miracle of miracles, it does it with a 3.7 volt, 4800 mAh,
battery. Ain't science wonderful?

>Various locks versus cutters:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pywN558dJaU>
>Cable locks, about 2 seconds.
>Chain, 11 seconds.
>U-lock versus battery powered angle grinder, about 5 seconds.
>The longest time was 70 seconds for a fancy U-lock.
>
>>Are you talking about the life of the grinding wheel?
>
>Yes.
>
>>If so I buy the
>>4" x 1mm disks for something like a dollar or maybe a few cents more,
>>a piece.
>
><http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-inch-cut-off-wheels-for-metal-45432.html>
>$0.90/ea in packages of 10. They're cheap enough, but I don't like
>changing discs in the middle of a job. Somehow, I always manage to
>burn my fingers.

Wear leather gloves like the safety manual tells you to :-)
>
>A friend called me from a storage locker facility asking for help. He
>had lost the key and didn't have any tools with him. If he didn't get
>his stuff out immediately, he would be charged for an extra month. He
>has a Ryobi battery powered angle grinder, but not much else. So, I
>go to the local hardware store and they're out of cutoff discs. I buy
>grinding wheels instead, a big mistake. I then find the angle grinder
>has two half dead batteries and the nearest AC for charging is about 5
>times as far away as my extension cord is long. I should have driven
>8 miles home and returned with the right tools, but I decided to give
>it a go with the Ryobi. An hour and two grinding wheels later, I was
>getting nowhere. The problem was obvious. Instead a nice narrow 1mm
>wide kerf, I was gouging a much larger v-shaped chunk out of the lock.
>Then I wore out my 3rd and last grinding wheel, I had removed enough
>metal that I could finish the job with a hammer. Incidentally, while
>we were burglarizing his storage locker, about 20 people drifted by.
>Despite the obvious amateurish and crude assault on the lock, nobody
>asked what we were doing or bothered to call the police.

The British Army, I believe has a motto called the 7 P's "Proper Prior
Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance".

As for calling cops :-)

I parked on the main street of Phuket, Thailand and locked my keys in
the truck. Well, I could have broken the window, but it was MY truck
so I was trying to find something that I could slip down beside the
window to pull the lock button up.

I'm down on my knees on the side walk trying to fish the lock with a
24" steel ruler and a Thai guy, good clothes and all, comes along and
says. Oh. Locked your keys in the car?" I, probably a little
embarrassed, say, "Yup". The Thai guy says, "that thing you got isn't
going to work. Wait a minute." He walks off and comes back with a
bicycle spoke with the nipple on it, says, "Here, let me" and reaches
over and pops the lock.

Which, I suppose, in spite of Kipling, demonstrates that the "White
man's burden" isn't always. And bicycle shops sell burglar tools.

>>It does work harden - very quickly. With a sharp drill and an
>>experienced "operator" you can drill it about the same as stainless.
>>BUT, if you let the bit slip, even as little as one revolution, you
>>end up with something that is "hard as glass".
>
>I'm told one also has to use a rather slow drilling rpm.
>
>I'm wondering how well the titanium lock does against and angle
>grinder?
>Most of these videos say it holds up well:
><https://vimeo.com/107618227>
>but I don't like the way the tools were used.
>These videos say that the TiGr lock is lousy:
><https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/1n13in/the_tigr_lock_is_incredibly_easy_to_break_127/>
>(5 seconds).
>
>>But hard or soft it grinds about the same and cutting it with a 1mm
>>cutoff wheel is not really a big problem.
>>(Been there, done that)
>
>Which means a grinder will work on the TiGr titanium lock.
>
>Well, if titanium isn't good enough, perhaps reactive armor as in tank
>armor. For the lock cable, I would use steel or copper tubing filled
>with some kind of explosive and some manner of pyrophoric (ignites
>when exposed to air) igniter. When someone tries to cut the
>cable/tubing, it explodes in their face. As long as the cable/tubing
>remains sealed and air tight, it's safe.

Years ago we lived a bit outside a town in N. Thailand, in a typical
Thai house, up on stilts, and I kept an old motorcycle under the house
to get back and forth to work. Chained to a post. One night someone
came by with some bolt cutters and stole my motorcycle. Well, I had to
hitch a ride to work and I had to buy another clapped out bike, and
was trying to figure out how to protect my "new" motorcycle.

Since Thai two wire electrical systems have a power and a neutral leg
I reckoned that I could drive a ground stake not too far from the
motorcycle and connect the Neutral leg to the stake and clip the hot
wire to the motorcycle, rubber tires, kick stand on a rubber mat.

I even went so far as to drive a ground rod. Then reality struck, Late
night; wake up; late for work; swill down a cup of hot coffee, burned
mouth; run downstairs; ZAP!
cheers,

John B.

Ian Field

unread,
Jun 29, 2016, 2:48:24 PM6/29/16
to


"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:bdv0nb5s92v1taj1t...@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 22:28:32 +0100, "Ian Field"
> <gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
>>news:7kc0nbd6u5lesu8s4...@4ax.com...
>>> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 18:08:04 +0100, "Ian Field"
>>> <gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire
>>>>combination
>>>>lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.
>>>
>>> It's not from a stolen bicycle. A good bicycle thief doesn't leave
>>> evidence behind, which means he takes the lock, which would be full of
>>> his fingerprints.
>
>>A bicycle thief would at best discard the lock by throwing it on the
>>ground,
>>and certainly not re-lock it.
>
> As neither of us are likely to be an actual bicycle thief, I suspect
> our speculations on the thought processes of a real bicycle thief
> might be somewhat lacking. In this case, methinks that you're making
> a bad assumption, that the bicycle lock was left attached to the
> supermarket bicycle rack for no useful reason.

It could have been left there for a *VERY* useful reason - field testing a
small variety of locks.

The lock manufacturer will always tell the customer that their lock is the
ultimate in security - the reality is usually somewhat different.

If you leave 2 or 3 locks secured to the rail in various locations - you
don't bother replacing any that go missing.

If you've bought a high tech bicycle - losing a couple of locks is far
cheaper.

David Scheidt

unread,
Jul 1, 2016, 9:03:44 AM7/1/16
to
Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
:On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 18:08:04 +0100, "Ian Field"
:<gangprob...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

:>On Saturdays visit to the supermarket, there was a steel wire combination
:>lock wound round one of the tie rails with no bicycle attached.

:It's not from a stolen bicycle. A good bicycle thief doesn't leave
:evidence behind, which means he takes the lock, which would be full of
:his fingerprints. The bike rack in front of a local small office

Assumes that anyone investigates bike theft. Chicago police won't
send someone to take a report, let alone let a detective think about
investigate one. The bike thief could leave his name and address, and
the cops wouldn't care.

:Maybe a Titanium lock?
20 seconds with an angle grinder takes care of that.


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