Bike hitch/rack recommendations please

[Bob Newman]

I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that is any consideration.

Thanks in advance...

~~~ __O
~~~ _-\<,_
~~~ (*)/ (*) Bob

[sms]

On 6/26/2016 2:20 PM, Bob Newman wrote:
> I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that is any consideration.

Depends on the type of bicycle. For a carbon fiber frame you need to buy
a rack that holds the bicycle only by the wheels because the frame is
too fragile for any kind of clamps.

I prefer hitch racks where the bicycle wheels are in a tray or wheel
holder thingees and then the frame is held by a clamp, but I have no
carbon fiber bicycles to worry about.

This is what I have:
<http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1122106_-1___>

One more piece of advice, learned the hard way. When the rack is on the
hitch, your bumper is non-functional. If someone hits the rear of your
car, they hit the rack. It can cause significant damage to the vehicle.
I had to have a new floor welded into my Honda CR-V many years ago.
Fortunately the guy who hit me's insurance paid for it.

Is the Element unibody or chassis and body construction?

Also check Costco.com.

[Bob Newman]

No carbon fiber for me. One Aluminum & one, who knows?
I can empathize with the auto damage. I had a minivan and forgot I had my cheap rack on it. The kind with the straps to hook on you trunk edge. I backed into a parking space with a wall at the end of it and the rack hit the wall all pushed through to a huge dent in the back of my mini-van.

Bob

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

Measure the hitch hole

go to metals supermarkets or online ( there are calculators

buy 2'6" long rectangular tube 3/16ths thick

one 1/8th plate 2x2'

one 2'x2"x2"2" (or wider what tires ?) channel

and 2 1"x1" angles measured running from bumper or what ever vehicle steel*

to plate bottom. ,,,as bracing

use a measure u channel of aluminum if possible 1x1x1 for a brace running from near hitch to top tubes cycle frame

add bottom platform channels for2-3-4 bikes

wireup red/yellow LED running lamps..avoid liability.

price this then compare against commercial rigs

paint everything with rusto primer n 2 topcoats WHITE or GREEN or ORANGE or YELLOW for visibility

bolt this together with quality bolts washers nylocks with blue Loctite or red

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

https://goo.gl/ekrBDG

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 14:20:16 -0700 (PDT), Bob Newman
<newma...@gmail.com> wrote:

>I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element
>so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about
>the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions
>for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to
>take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that
>is any consideration.

I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester. A hitch rack would block opening the
rear hatch door, so that's out. What's left is a roof rack or a
temporary rack attached by straps and shock cords. So, I ended up
with a Rhode Gear rack something like this:
<http://bike.sitelerwash.net/rhode-gear-bike-rack-design-for-your-car/rhode-gear-bike-rack-model/>
I have several of these racks made for anywhere between one and three
bicycles. None of them were purchased new. Most cost about $10 at
the local thrift shop, probably donated by someone who didn't know how
to follow the printed instructions. I guess I'm not an exception
because I rode around with the rack install in an inverted position
for about a year, until someone was good enough to advise me of my
error.

More:
<http://www.racksreviewed.com/rhode-gear-bike-rack/>
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=rhode+gear+bike+rack>
As long as I take the time to install the rack properly, they work
just fine.

As usual, there were a few problems. This type of rack offers zero
security if the bicycle is left attached to the rack and unattended. A
bicycle thief needs only to slash the straps, and drive off with both
the rack and bicycle. My current solution is to attach a cable lock
to the towing chain safety holes on the trailer hitch.

I also had a problem with pedals scratching the car and other
bicycles. I added folding pedals, and urethane foam bumpers, which
mostly solved that problem.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/Sunlite%2067302%20folding%20pedals/index.html>

Another problem is that such racks don't store very well in either the
vehicle or home closet. It would be nice if they collapsed into
something small, but to the best of my knowledge, none of the
manufacturers considers that a design requirement. Therefore, I
suggest that once you get the rack properly positioned for your
vehicle, you mark the position of the various interlocking parts with
paint or nail polish, so that you can easily re-assemble the rack when
needed.

My Subaru has the exhaust pipes just below the rear bumper. Unless
you can deal with having your wheels and tires covered with water,
oil, soot, etc from the exhaust pipes, make sure that you secure the
bicycle to avoid this problem.

Long ago, the CHP (Calif Highway Patrol) decided that my bicycle was
obscuring their view of my license plate. I talked my way out of a
ticket and settled for a warning. I then attached a color
reproduction of my rear license plate to the bicycle, which attracted
the attention of literally every CHP vehicle that I passed. Bad idea.

Hint: Buy a foam "pool noodle". Slit it lengthwise and use sections
to protect your bicycle tubes from friction damage and scratching.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=foam+pool+noodle&tbm=isch>
Also useful if you need to ship your bicycle somewhere.


--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[jbeattie]

On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 7:07:07 PM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 14:20:16 -0700 (PDT), Bob Newman
> <newma...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element
> >so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about
> >the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions
> >for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to
> >take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that
> >is any consideration.
>
> I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester. A hitch rack would block opening the
> rear hatch door, so that's out. What's left is a roof rack or a
> temporary rack attached by straps and shock cords.

<snip>

I have a Yakima Hold-Up two-bike hitch rack on a Subaru Outback, and I can get the hatch open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTIXHLc8O08 (at about 6:00) It does not work with all cars, though.

If I have any complaints, I take them up with the inventor -- well at least the guy whose name goes on the patent. The head of products is my neighbor and frequent riding companion. I rode with him today. I ride with him and his workmates a lot, so as you might expect, I'm brand loyal. I get slapped around if I even mention Thule.

Down side of any hitch rack is weight and wrestling the rack into place. The Holdup has a threaded hitch bolt, and you can't get the supplied wrench on the head because of the tight clearances between the hitch and the bottom of the hatch -- so I had to get a 15/16" socket. The rack now has both the main pin for raising and lowering the rack plus a safety pin. The hole-registration for the safety pin on my rack is really tight, so you have to wrestle with the rack a bit to get the pin in. It could be a one-off issue. I keep forgetting to take it up with my buddy.

Even if you don't have CF frames, the wheel clamping method works really well with mountain bikes and odd-shaped (non diamond-frame) bikes. I got a hitch rack because my wife has a disability but wants to try driving to some of the local flat riding areas, and she can't manage lifting her steel, flat-bar bike on to the roof of the Subaru.

The rack is not cheap, but REI and others put them on sale on a fairly regular basis.

As for hitches, I would get the largest hitch your vehicle will accept. I have a 2" hitch and use it to pull my utility trailer to the yard debris dump. UHaul is a popular supplier for hitches and balls, and their prices are good. I had the hitch on my Subaru installed by Rack Attack and got a Curt hitch, which is a nice hitch -- but I've also had OE hitches and UHaul hitches and couldn't tell the difference. You can even mail order hitches with instructions for drilling holes and doing wiring. It's not rocket science, but I typically let others do it.

-- Jay Beattie.

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

As written. I screwed together a rear door rack, a hitch rack AND a roof rack.

Door rack is right rear on a Ford van. Door opens. Frame only, seat post n wheels are inside cargo.

Hitch rack is described into OEM Class 4

Cost $40 with paint. Al rod from dumpster.

Door rack made from bed frame angle irons

Top rack is front fork axle holder from uh either Universal or Jenson. Costs $5

The standard hatch does not function or continue with a bicycle n rack on it ?

Interesting observation on racks are NOT passing a bicycle debris field where we are passed by many potential intact fields held together with shock cords.

Six ! Massed against Caravan's rear door with one equipped with obligatory pink tires n a large fog rubbing his asshole on the upholstory.

[sms]

On 6/26/2016 8:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:
> On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 7:07:07 PM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 14:20:16 -0700 (PDT), Bob Newman
>> <newma...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element
>>> so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about
>>> the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions
>>> for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to
>>> take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that
>>> is any consideration.
>>
>> I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester. A hitch rack would block opening the
>> rear hatch door, so that's out. What's left is a roof rack or a
>> temporary rack attached by straps and shock cords.
>
> <snip>
>
> I have a Yakima Hold-Up two-bike hitch rack on a Subaru Outback, and I can get the hatch open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTIXHLc8O08 (at about 6:00) It does not work with all cars, though.
>
> If I have any complaints, I take them up with the inventor -- well at least the guy whose name goes on the patent. The head of products is my neighbor and frequent riding companion. I rode with him today. I ride with him and his workmates a lot, so as you might expect, I'm brand loyal. I get slapped around if I even mention Thule.

I SPIT on Yakima. Moved all production to Mexico.

> Down side of any hitch rack is weight and wrestling the rack into place. The Holdup has a threaded hitch bolt, and you can't get the supplied wrench on the head because of the tight clearances between the hitch and the bottom of the hatch -- so I had to get a 15/16" socket. The rack now has both the main pin for raising and lowering the rack plus a safety pin. The hole-registration for the safety pin on my rack is really tight, so you have to wrestle with the rack a bit to get the pin in. It could be a one-off issue. I keep forgetting to take it up with my buddy.
>
> Even if you don't have CF frames, the wheel clamping method works really well with mountain bikes and odd-shaped (non diamond-frame) bikes. I got a hitch rack because my wife has a disability but wants to try driving to some of the local flat riding areas, and she can't manage lifting her steel, flat-bar bike on to the roof of the Subaru.
>
> The rack is not cheap, but REI and others put them on sale on a fairly regular basis.
>
> As for hitches, I would get the largest hitch your vehicle will accept. I have a 2" hitch and use it to pull my utility trailer to the yard debris dump. UHaul is a popular supplier for hitches and balls, and their prices are good. I had the hitch on my Subaru installed by Rack Attack and got a Curt hitch, which is a nice hitch -- but I've also had OE hitches and UHaul hitches and couldn't tell the difference. You can even mail order hitches with instructions for drilling holes and doing wiring. It's not rocket science, but I typically let others do it.

The Element can take a Class 2 hitch.

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

Call the BP ...

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

Oh yeah....the hitch pin..
if pin length allows, file the insert end down a bit less than the before aligned corded hole n lube with CRC or silicone grease, P. Wood ?

JB, when has Yak begun MX production ? Can we zID MX vs USA ?

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 21:24:47 -0700, sms <scharf...@geemail.com>
wrote:

>I SPIT on Yakima. Moved all production to Mexico.

Yes, 20 years ago (in 1996):
<http://www.oregonlive.com/playbooks-profits/index.ssf/2015/07/rack_it_up_yakima_rolls_with_n.html>
The article says that only rack production moved to Tijuana and that
cargo box production is in California.

>The Element can take a Class 2 hitch.

Yeah, I have the same problem. My 2001 Subaru Forester also only
takes a class 2 hitch. A class 2 hitch uses a 1.25x1.25" receiver.
Most of the bicycle racks that I've seen are made for 2.0"x2.0".

Incidentally, a former lady friend bought a hitch mounted rack for her
2013(?) Toyota Prius. The Prius only took a 1.25"x1.25" receiver. So,
the LBS sold her a 1.25" to 2.0" adapter and a Thule monster bike
rack. I think it was this model:
<https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-doubletrack-2-bike-990xt-_-5776509>
The theory behind the monster rack was that she has a rather heavy
early electric bicycle, and a rather heavy conventional bicycle. The
combination of the adapter and the monster rack stuck out about 3ft
behind the rear bumper. It was too heavy for her to handle by
herself, so I was volunteered to come over every time she needed to
have it installed or removed. Since the garage door wouldn't close
with the rack attached, that became an all too frequent event. I
built an elevated wooden cart on casters for the monster rack so she
could just slide the rack into position. That worked but beating on
the hitch locking pins was too much for her.

[sms]

On 6/26/2016 10:18 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 21:24:47 -0700, sms <scharf...@geemail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I SPIT on Yakima. Moved all production to Mexico.
>
> Yes, 20 years ago (in 1996):
> <http://www.oregonlive.com/playbooks-profits/index.ssf/2015/07/rack_it_up_yakima_rolls_with_n.html>
> The article says that only rack production moved to Tijuana and that
> cargo box production is in California.
>
>> The Element can take a Class 2 hitch.
>
> Yeah, I have the same problem. My 2001 Subaru Forester also only
> takes a class 2 hitch. A class 2 hitch uses a 1.25x1.25" receiver.
> Most of the bicycle racks that I've seen are made for 2.0"x2.0".

Me bad, the Element can take a Class 3 hitch.

We have hitches on all our vehicles. Prius=Class 2, 2x Camry with Class
2, and 4Runner with Class 3.

> Incidentally, a former lady friend bought a hitch mounted rack for her
> 2013(?) Toyota Prius. The Prius only took a 1.25"x1.25" receiver. So,
> the LBS sold her a 1.25" to 2.0" adapter and a Thule monster bike
> rack.

Bad idea, since the tongue weight is probably being exceeded.

I think it was this model:
> <https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-doubletrack-2-bike-990xt-_-5776509>

I've long been a Thule fan since the days when I was comparing roof
racks. The Thule roof mounts were better designed.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 22:41:54 -0700, sms <scharf...@geemail.com>
wrote:

>Me bad, the Element can take a Class 3 hitch.

Remind me not to trust you any more. Googling...
<https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2008_Honda_Element.htm>
Yep. Class 3 with a 2.0x2.0" receiver. That should work nicely with
any trailer hitch bike rack.

>We have hitches on all our vehicles. Prius=Class 2, 2x Camry with Class
>2, and 4Runner with Class 3.
>
>> Incidentally, a former lady friend bought a hitch mounted rack for her
>> 2013(?) Toyota Prius. The Prius only took a 1.25"x1.25" receiver. So,
>> the LBS sold her a 1.25" to 2.0" adapter and a Thule monster bike
>> rack.
>
>Bad idea, since the tongue weight is probably being exceeded.

Nope. Class 2 is 350 lbs maximum tongue weight. The two heavy
bicycles and accessories probably totaled about 90 lbs. The rack and
adapter added about 60 lbs. 150 lbs total is well under the 350 lb
maximum.

> I think it was this model:
>> <https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-doubletrack-2-bike-990xt-_-5776509>
>
>I've long been a Thule fan since the days when I was comparing roof
>racks. The Thule roof mounts were better designed.

I never could get used to roof racks:
<http://wicycling.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Bike-rack-accident-570x398.png>
<http://i.imgur.com/CDtd1vy.jpg>
<https://thezeph.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/crumpled-bike.jpg>
<http://www.bustedcarbon.com/2009/03/no-carbon-wednesday-take-bike-off-roof.html>
<http://semi-rad.com/2013/08/a-letter-from-your-bike-re-your-roof-top-bike-rack/>
<http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/ofcounsel/photo-12_zpsde39c025.jpg>
<http://content.bikeroar.com/system/content/000/082/869/original/Crazy-bike-carrying-van.jpg>

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

wung lob

http://www.bustedcarbon.com/2009/03/no-carbon-wednesday-take-bike-off-roof.html

eg.....2 lost...and 2 recovered .... the same 2 ........MiFi transsevers. before dawn on the road. so much for the wx report.

thus....the hitch buyer should match hitch with commercial platform.

hpws the air supply ?

the fire map is impressive, again. Owens valley ? DEATH VALLEY !

[DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH]

A Baldwin Works Type axle holder

http://www.jensonusa.com/Saris-Traps-Fork-Mount-Carrier

duhduhduh….one tuba 6 ubolted to transverse roof rack members with the axle holder

4 aluminum struts to bicycle frame…triangulated for stability. Eyeball.

Wire blinking LED to front …for the garage door beam.

We participate in a canoe kayak forum.
Serious roof racking.

Serious problem in undeveloped lobe information transfer. Not helped with paddling mode either.

A comparative analysis of white water rackers vs not so white water rackers beckons.

Removing a headliner for installing studs for a place on take off rigid platform …

‘my God, drill holes in the roof of my priceless XXXXXX what abt resale value ?

Yeah what abt canals on Mars ?

[AMuzi]

There are a few basic styles:
http://saris.com/catalog/racks#filter-9=on

Almost all 2 bike racks can fit in 1-1/4" or in 2"
receivers, carton includes provision for both. Some larger
capacity models are 2" only. These have become standard
consumer items, minimal assembly, easy to use. Not at all
the 'bag of bolts' they once were.

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[jbeattie]

On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 9:24:51 PM UTC-7, sms wrote:
> On 6/26/2016 8:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:
> > On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 7:07:07 PM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> >> On Sun, 26 Jun 2016 14:20:16 -0700 (PDT), Bob Newman
> >> <newma...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I believe that I am going to put a hitch on my 2008 Honda Element
> >>> so I can put a bike rack on the hitch. I know nothing about
> >>> the hitches or the racks that go in them. Your suggestions
> >>> for either would be very welcome. I will probably want to
> >>> take the rack on and off a couple of times a week if that
> >>> is any consideration.
> >>
> >> I drive a 2001 Subaru Forester. A hitch rack would block opening the
> >> rear hatch door, so that's out. What's left is a roof rack or a
> >> temporary rack attached by straps and shock cords.
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > I have a Yakima Hold-Up two-bike hitch rack on a Subaru Outback, and I can get the hatch open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTIXHLc8O08 (at about 6:00) It does not work with all cars, though.
> >
> > If I have any complaints, I take them up with the inventor -- well at least the guy whose name goes on the patent. The head of products is my neighbor and frequent riding companion. I rode with him today. I ride with him and his workmates a lot, so as you might expect, I'm brand loyal. I get slapped around if I even mention Thule.
>
> I SPIT on Yakima. Moved all production to Mexico.

<snip>

It moved to China. Are you spitting on the Chinese now? I thought they were your buddies. I believe the cargo boxes are still made in California -- a very short spit from you.

My friend is frequently in China overseeing production. All design occurs at the offices in Lake Oswego.

-- Jay Beattie.

[jbeattie]

I'm the other way around -- hitch racks make me nervous. I'm worried about backing into something or vice versa. However, if you have a tall-mobile and a bunch of heavy DH bikes, a hitch rack is about your only option -- unless you have a step-ladder and like upper body workouts.

I have had a few bad roof rack incidents -- drove into the garage and broke the forks on an old steel bike. My wife drove under a low overhang, which knocked the front rail off and bent the gutters, but the bikes were unharmed. Those were both Yakima racks (which was good, because we were about to start a tour around the Grand Canyon). I had a La Prealpina rack rail fall off a VW bug on the highway, and that was hair-raising. That was my first expensive roof rack -- '70s Italiano technology POS.

-- Jay Beattie.

[Frank Krygowski]

On 6/26/2016 11:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:
> The rack now has both the main pin for raising and lowering the rack plus a safety pin. The hole-registration for the safety pin on my rack is really tight, so you have to wrestle with the rack a bit to get the pin in. It could be a one-off issue. I keep forgetting to take it up with my buddy.

Sounds like it would be worth five minutes time with a rattail file or
reamer. Fix it and be done!

A problem I've seen with hitch racks is sort of the opposite: a fit
that's too loose between the receiver and the "tongue" of the rack that
fits into the receiver. The loose fit causes the hitch rack to tilt
side to side as the car drives down the road.

I suppose it's an aesthetic problem more than anything, and it's
sometimes cured with lateral straps. But I wonder if there's a good way
to tighten up that connection.

--
- Frank Krygowski

[AMuzi]

LaPrealpina was innovative for its time but a classic
example of 'bag of bolts' car rack technology. OK design
with abysmal execution.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 07:10:00 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
<jbeat...@msn.com> wrote:

>I'm the other way around -- hitch racks make me nervous. I'm worried
>about backing into something or vice versa.

I've never had an accident going in the forward direction. However,
backing up is a problem for me.

Among the 3 available choices (roof, hitch, trunk/hatch/strap mount, I
chose the strap mount because it's the cheapest of the three.

>However, if you have a tall-mobile and a bunch of heavy DH bikes,
>a hitch rack is about your only option -- unless you have a
>step-ladder and like upper body workouts.

Apparently some riders have worked out a suitable method:
<http://content.bikeroar.com/system/content/000/082/869/original/Crazy-bike-carrying-van.jpg>

If that's unacceptable, prehaps a bicycle forklift:
<http://www.blog.thesietch.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/bicyleforklift.jpg>

>I have had a few bad roof rack incidents -- drove into the garage
>and broke the forks on an old steel bike. My wife drove under
>a low overhang, which knocked the front rail off and bent the
>gutters, but the bikes were unharmed. Those were both Yakima
>racks (which was good, because we were about to start a tour
>around the Grand Canyon). I had a La Prealpina rack rail fall
>off a VW bug on the highway, and that was hair-raising. That
>was my first expensive roof rack -- '70s Italiano technology POS.
>-- Jay Beattie.

I was too cheap to get a roof rack, so I just threw my bicycle onto
the roof of my 1960 Ford Falcon. The pedal scraped off some paint. No
big deal as the factory paint job was falling off in large flakes.

Most of my later vehicles were pickup trucks, which made bicycle
transport quite easy, and bicycle security quite difficult. My only
real problem was driving over and breaking an antenna that was leaning
against a wall and into my intended parking space. When I only have
one bicycle to transport, and the back of the Subaru is empty, I
prefer to remove the wheels, and throw everything into the back. The
former lady friend also complained that fitting into a parking space
with the hitch rack attached is difficult.

[jbeattie]

On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 7:14:27 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
> On 6/26/2016 11:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:
> > The rack now has both the main pin for raising and lowering the rack plus a safety pin. The hole-registration for the safety pin on my rack is really tight, so you have to wrestle with the rack a bit to get the pin in. It could be a one-off issue. I keep forgetting to take it up with my buddy.
>
> Sounds like it would be worth five minutes time with a rattail file or
> reamer. Fix it and be done!

That's a good idea -- maybe tomorrow. The rack is primarily used for family vacations, and on the rare occasion that I drive my bike somewhere alone, I usually use the roof rack.

The tongue/receiver interface is snugged up with a threaded bolt. https://assets.yakima.com/product/instructions/8002443/1 150 foot pounds! There is no play in that joint. There is some slop elsewhere, but watching the bikes in the rear view mirror, they look pretty stable.

I didn't mention that the rack has a built-in cable lock. I wouldn't rely on it too heavily because the cable is pretty small diameter, but it would deter a casual thief. It's primarily for bike retention.

-- Jay Beattie.

[Andrew Chaplin]

Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:5nf2nb9q5v1k8ngqd...@4ax.com:

> When I only have
> one bicycle to transport, and the back of the Subaru is empty, I
> prefer to remove the wheels, and throw everything into the back.

That's similar to the approach I take with our Ford Escape. I fold the
driver's side rear seat, remove the bike's front wheel and wedge its back
wheel between the driver's seat and the "B" pillar.
--
Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
(If you're going to e-mail me, you'll have to get "yourfinger." out.)

[Ralph Barone]

Andrew Chaplin <ab.ch...@yourfinger.rogers.com> wrote:
> Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in
> news:5nf2nb9q5v1k8ngqd...@4ax.com:
>
>> When I only have
>> one bicycle to transport, and the back of the Subaru is empty, I
>> prefer to remove the wheels, and throw everything into the back.
>
> That's similar to the approach I take with our Ford Escape. I fold the
> driver's side rear seat, remove the bike's front wheel and wedge its back
> wheel between the driver's seat and the "B" pillar.

I've got a piece of plywood with three fork mounts (meant for pickup truck
beds) screwed to it. The plywood has four J bolts and wing nuts that attach
to the base that is left after I pull a seat out of my minivan. I can then
remove the front wheel, clamp the fork into the fork mount, and have my
bike firmly ensconced inside my vehicle.

[Frank Krygowski]

Our previous car was a Pontiac Vibe (= Toyota Matrix). I was able to
use that fork mount trick with our two touring bikes. My wife's bike
needed no modification; my bike needed its seat post removed. It was
very handy to have the bikes secure and out of the weather.

Our current car, a Mazda 3, isn't tall enough for that trick. Its
interior also lacks the very flat cargo floor and lots of handy
tie-downs that the Vibe had. This means our folding bikes get used a lot
more on trips.


--
- Frank Krygowski

[John Doe]

Regular nym-shifting troll...

--
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