Integrate Shimano Tourney V-brake/shifters trouble shifting.

[Sir Ridesalot]

Worked on a friend's bike today for a bit. Got the rear shifting to work from high (smallest cog) to the next THREE cogs of a 7-speed freewheel. For some reason the shifter will NOT shift beyone that 4th cog and go onto the next larger cogs. Pushing the derailler whislt pedaling WILL move the derailler to the biggest cog. The cable runs free. It's the shifter. You get to the 4th position and then the shifter jams. He's going to try the old WD-40 flush. Is it likely that there's something busted inside the shifter itself and that's limiting the shifting capacity to only 4 of the 7 cogs?

Howp you put a new cable in one of those beasties?/ It's NOT a thumbshifter. There''s one lever for shifting up and another leverfor shifting down.

thanks and cheers

[AMuzi]

There are various years/models but generally lift the
plastic cover plate by removing three very small screws.
Sounds as if your lever doesn't go all the way to high gear
so you may be shifting between 1 and 3 at the lever =
between 4 and 7 at the cassette. As with any STi system,
flush out the shifter with cheap spray lube[1] first before
replacing the shifter.

[1] we use SuperLube but any similar will do

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Sir Ridesalot]

It will shift from the smallest cog to the next larger one and then to the next larger one but it only goes to the fourth (middle cog) of the 7-speed cluster and then the shifter will not move any further. I told my buddy to give it a good flush. When I was there today we disn't have a small enough screw driver for those tiny heasded screws. I'll be back to give it another try tomorrow.

Btw, how do you put a new cable into one of those? Do you have to remove the cover or can you shift to a certain gear and then run a new cable in through an access hole in the shifter?

Thanks again and cheers

[AMuzi]

On 8/6/2017 5:22 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
> On Sunday, August 6, 2017 at 6:05:56 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
>> On 8/6/2017 4:01 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
>>> Worked on a friend's bike today for a bit. Got the rear shifting to work from high (smallest cog) to the next THREE cogs of a 7-speed freewheel. For some reason the shifter will NOT shift beyone that 4th cog and go onto the next larger cogs. Pushing the derailler whislt pedaling WILL move the derailler to the biggest cog. The cable runs free. It's the shifter. You get to the 4th position and then the shifter jams. He's going to try the old WD-40 flush. Is it likely that there's something busted inside the shifter itself and that's limiting the shifting capacity to only 4 of the 7 cogs?
>>>
>>> Howp you put a new cable in one of those beasties?/ It's NOT a thumbshifter. There''s one lever for shifting up and another leverfor shifting down.
>>>
>>> thanks and cheers
>>>
>>
>> There are various years/models but generally lift the
>> plastic cover plate by removing three very small screws.
>> Sounds as if your lever doesn't go all the way to high gear
>> so you may be shifting between 1 and 3 at the lever =
>> between 4 and 7 at the cassette. As with any STi system,
>> flush out the shifter with cheap spray lube[1] first before
>> replacing the shifter.
>>
>> [1] we use SuperLube but any similar will do
>>

> It will shift from the smallest cog to the next larger one and then to the next larger one but it only goes to the fourth (middle cog) of the 7-speed cluster and then the shifter will not move any further. I told my buddy to give it a good flush. When I was there today we disn't have a small enough screw driver for those tiny heasded screws. I'll be back to give it another try tomorrow.
>
> Btw, how do you put a new cable into one of those? Do you have to remove the cover or can you shift to a certain gear and then run a new cable in through an access hole in the shifter?

inexpensive models are mostly like this:
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-EF29-8-2088_v1_m56577569830609271.pdf

no gear wire port. Remove cover to flush. Wire replacement,
when open, is obvious; it's a quick job.

[Ned Mantei]

On 07-08-17 00:05, AMuzi wrote:
> There are various years/models but generally lift the plastic cover
> plate by removing three very small screws. Sounds as if your lever
> doesn't go all the way to high gear so you may be shifting between 1 and
> 3 at the lever = between 4 and 7 at the cassette. As with any STi
> system, flush out the shifter with cheap spray lube[1] first before
> replacing the shifter.

Two years ago the shift cable broke at the shifter end on my 2003 bike
with XT combination shifter/brake levers. When I tried to unscrew the
top of the shifter I promptly destroyed the "heads" of the tiny Phillips
head screws. I ended up buying a new shifter and brake lever (nowadays
two separate parts). Possibly there was corrosion after 12 years, or did
I just do this wrong? The Phillips screwdriver was appropriate for the
screw head, and I exerted a lot of pressure while turning. I can't
remember now whether or not I also applied penetrating oil.

Ned

[AMuzi]

When Leo Tolstoy was a mountain bike mechanic [1] he noted
that inexpensive shifters are happily alike but pricey ones
are each miserable in their own way.

Your XT shifter didn't need disassembly to change a gear
wire. That has a black nylon port on the back outside. If
the wire is mangled, use a pointy spoke to push the head
out. You're right that those teeny XT screws are trouble.

[1]http://www.quotationspage.com/quote/27719.html

[Ned Mantei]

I knew about the port on the back, and used it before when changing the
cable. I should have thought of the pointy spoke trick, although I'm not
sure that it would have worked: the frayed remnants of the cable had
spread out so that it seemed quite stuck. In any case thanks for the tip
(although with any luck this will never happen again--for me it was the
first time in some 30+ years of serious bicycling).

Ned

[cycl...@gmail.com]

It's a pain in the butt but with a set of needle nose pliers you can pull the end free so that you can get a good grip on it. Cable strands have no strength in themselves and the entire mess pulls right out.