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My second electric bike
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John Doe
Apr 29, 2016, 9:56:04 PM4/29/16
to
https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
Scroll down and you will see the "bottom bracket to drill connection". A
standard cartridge was used, but the tightening is the same into the
socket. Being a bolt instead of a nut doesn't change the method.
That's the most difficult part when designing a cordless drill powered
electric bike. The next most difficult part is the bracket for holding
and aligning the drill with the bottom bracket connector. This iteration
is light years better, assuming it's sturdy enough. It can't be any
easier and simpler, using two sturdy pieces of aluminum flatbar with
eight holes drilled through it for 1/4 inch bolts. Also, a long mountain
bike seat post was used that is 2/10 of a millimeter wider in diameter
than the stock seatpost, so that it's a deep and snug fit. That to
reinforce the seat tube in case much pressure is needed.
Besides the ultra simplicity, aligning the drill with the bottom bracket
is miraculously easy compared to my first underpowered bike that's been
running well for ten months. I do expect some wrenching since it's a
powerful drill (Dewalt DCD995), and there is a plan B, but time will
tell.
The trigger controller also turned out very well. A cheap Shimano
shifter can be converted into a simple no-click spooler by taking it
apart and removing a plastic piece. The wire connection to the drill
triggeris easy. Just connect the sheath to the trigger button and
connect the wire to the side of the drill using a lot of hot melt glue.
When the shifter is rotated and the wire is pulled into the sheath, the
sheath moves the trigger button inwards.
The only difficult part is cutting a 1/2 inch square hole through the
3/8 inch-thick aluminum disk. That for holding the front sprocket to the
bottom bracket. I consulted lots of metalworkers for advice on the
issue. It's a difficult task without an expensive tool(s). The back of
the socket (drill to bottom bracket connector) presses against that 3/8
inch thick aluminum disk, giving it stability. A tool (called a
"broach") for cutting a square hole through aluminum cost $200+ (US).
Appropriately sized square files are in order. Perhaps they can be used
similar to that expensive dedicated tool, or just the way they are
normally used to square a hole. This time I used a cheap 1/4 inch square
file that crudely got the job done.
I might put this on my YouTube channel (pqxxedf). if so, then I will
post any progress reports and answer any questions.
Scroll down and you will see the "bottom bracket to drill connection". A
standard cartridge was used, but the tightening is the same into the
socket. Being a bolt instead of a nut doesn't change the method.
That's the most difficult part when designing a cordless drill powered
electric bike. The next most difficult part is the bracket for holding
and aligning the drill with the bottom bracket connector. This iteration
is light years better, assuming it's sturdy enough. It can't be any
easier and simpler, using two sturdy pieces of aluminum flatbar with
eight holes drilled through it for 1/4 inch bolts. Also, a long mountain
bike seat post was used that is 2/10 of a millimeter wider in diameter
than the stock seatpost, so that it's a deep and snug fit. That to
reinforce the seat tube in case much pressure is needed.
Besides the ultra simplicity, aligning the drill with the bottom bracket
is miraculously easy compared to my first underpowered bike that's been
running well for ten months. I do expect some wrenching since it's a
powerful drill (Dewalt DCD995), and there is a plan B, but time will
tell.
The trigger controller also turned out very well. A cheap Shimano
shifter can be converted into a simple no-click spooler by taking it
apart and removing a plastic piece. The wire connection to the drill
triggeris easy. Just connect the sheath to the trigger button and
connect the wire to the side of the drill using a lot of hot melt glue.
When the shifter is rotated and the wire is pulled into the sheath, the
sheath moves the trigger button inwards.
The only difficult part is cutting a 1/2 inch square hole through the
3/8 inch-thick aluminum disk. That for holding the front sprocket to the
bottom bracket. I consulted lots of metalworkers for advice on the
issue. It's a difficult task without an expensive tool(s). The back of
the socket (drill to bottom bracket connector) presses against that 3/8
inch thick aluminum disk, giving it stability. A tool (called a
"broach") for cutting a square hole through aluminum cost $200+ (US).
Appropriately sized square files are in order. Perhaps they can be used
similar to that expensive dedicated tool, or just the way they are
normally used to square a hole. This time I used a cheap 1/4 inch square
file that crudely got the job done.
I might put this on my YouTube channel (pqxxedf). if so, then I will
post any progress reports and answer any questions.
Andre Jute
Apr 30, 2016, 1:39:09 AM4/30/16
to
Impressive. But where do you put your foot?
James
Apr 30, 2016, 4:07:39 AM4/30/16
to
On 30/04/16 15:39, Andre Jute wrote:
> Impressive. But where do you put your foot?
>
Waste of a good cordless drill!
> Impressive. But where do you put your foot?
>
--
JS
Andre Jute
Apr 30, 2016, 6:38:19 AM4/30/16
to
Andre Jute
Shocking!
John B.
Apr 30, 2016, 9:55:05 AM4/30/16
to
advise - drill a hole and file it square.
It might be interesting to read a bit about Purdy shotguns. One of
their major points was that the action and barrels were "hand fitted".
In other words filed and scrapped, by hand, to perfect fits.
--
Cheers,
John B.
James
Apr 30, 2016, 4:35:28 PM4/30/16
to
On 30/04/16 20:38, Andre Jute wrote:
> On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 9:07:39 AM UTC+1, James wrote:
>> On 30/04/16 15:39, Andre Jute wrote:
>>> Impressive. But where do you put your foot?
>>>
>>
>> Waste of a good cordless drill!
>>
>>
>
> On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 9:07:39 AM UTC+1, James wrote:
>> On 30/04/16 15:39, Andre Jute wrote:
>>> Impressive. But where do you put your foot?
>>>
>>
>> Waste of a good cordless drill!
>>
>>
>
> A good bottom bracket motor and a hefty battery (36V, 13 or 14AH)
> together doesn't leave a lot of change out of a thousand American
> dollars, so I can understand why people want to cook up a DIY version
> before they splash out, or merely from curiosity. In parts of the
> American cycling world which does not refresh RBT, there is
> considerable excitement about electric bicycles. Check out this
> newsgroup in particular:
> https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?search_id=egosearch&sid=4ed2df173d14860b33198883f1ccfac7
> -- the link should show you a bunch of questions I asked, at least
> one of them carelessly dumb (It turned out later I have the required
> tool in my toolbox but hadn't required it since 2002...), to all of
> which I got constructive, helpful, polite answers. More relevant to
> my sort of electrification, which is not intended to turn my bike
> into an electric motorbike but just to provide a smidgen of
> assistance near the top of hills I would otherwise have to give a
> miss, is this more restrained British newsgroup, which I suspect is
> operated by commercial interests but is nonetheless both expert and
> welcoming:
> http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/forums/electric-bike-conversion-kits.42/
>
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. One never knows when one may suffer
> together doesn't leave a lot of change out of a thousand American
> dollars, so I can understand why people want to cook up a DIY version
> before they splash out, or merely from curiosity. In parts of the
> American cycling world which does not refresh RBT, there is
> considerable excitement about electric bicycles. Check out this
> newsgroup in particular:
> https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?search_id=egosearch&sid=4ed2df173d14860b33198883f1ccfac7
> -- the link should show you a bunch of questions I asked, at least
> one of them carelessly dumb (It turned out later I have the required
> tool in my toolbox but hadn't required it since 2002...), to all of
> which I got constructive, helpful, polite answers. More relevant to
> my sort of electrification, which is not intended to turn my bike
> into an electric motorbike but just to provide a smidgen of
> assistance near the top of hills I would otherwise have to give a
> miss, is this more restrained British newsgroup, which I suspect is
> operated by commercial interests but is nonetheless both expert and
> welcoming:
> http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/forums/electric-bike-conversion-kits.42/
>
mobility issues.
--
JS
John Doe
May 1, 2016, 1:27:29 PM5/1/16
to
too.
John Doe
May 1, 2016, 1:29:02 PM5/1/16
to
On the ground. I will be wearing rollerblades.
John Doe
May 1, 2016, 1:50:05 PM5/1/16
to
Andre Jute <fiul...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> A good bottom bracket motor and a hefty battery (36V, 13 or 14AH)
> together doesn't leave a lot of change out of a thousand American
> dollars, so I can understand why people want to cook up a DIY version
> before they splash out, or merely from curiosity.
Mine is for the long haul. My current underpowered (Dewalt DCD780) bike
> A good bottom bracket motor and a hefty battery (36V, 13 or 14AH)
> together doesn't leave a lot of change out of a thousand American
> dollars, so I can understand why people want to cook up a DIY version
> before they splash out, or merely from curiosity.
has been running well for 10 months. The wooden front sprocket holder
failed but that was very easy to fix/reinforce.
If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
(US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the controller,
the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all together. The
rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly removable.
Andre Jute
May 1, 2016, 5:15:36 PM5/1/16
to
On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 6:50:05 PM UTC+1, John Doe wrote:
> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the controller,
> the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all together. The
> rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly removable.
Next you want to add two right angle drill gears so you can get the drill under the frame and snugged up to the tubes of the frame instead of sticking out vulnerably like that.
> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the controller,
> the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all together. The
> rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly removable.
Andre Jute
Wouldn't have lasted a day in Joerg's hands, of course
jbeattie
May 1, 2016, 8:05:12 PM5/1/16
to
-- Jay Beattie.
John Doe
May 1, 2016, 8:50:08 PM5/1/16
to
Andre Jute <fiul...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> John Doe wrote:
>
>> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
>> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
>> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the
>> controller, the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all
>> together. The rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly
>> removable.
>
> Next you want to add two right angle drill gears so you can get the
> drill under the frame and snugged up to the tubes of the frame instead
> of sticking out vulnerably like that.
I've been thinking about this for years. The new one sticks out pretty
> John Doe wrote:
>
>> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
>> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
>> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the
>> controller, the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all
>> together. The rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly
>> removable.
>
> Next you want to add two right angle drill gears so you can get the
> drill under the frame and snugged up to the tubes of the frame instead
> of sticking out vulnerably like that.
far, partly because it's a hammerdrill. But the method for holding the
drill and attaching it to the bottom bracket isn't going to change here.
And that probably excludes using a right angle. That's assuming the
bracket can handle the torque. But even if not, I'll try using a brace
(wire or whatever).
I have two current concerns... Easily and neatly cutting a square 1/2 inch
hole in a 3 3/8 inch thick aluminum disk. That's no big deal. The second
is a little more technical, that's providing spring tension in the
drivetrain so that power can be applied without worrying about jolting
things when the sprocket catches up to the wheel speed. I think that can
be done by modifying an ordinary chain tensioner. It hasn't wrecked my
current bike, but this one's more powerful.
James
May 2, 2016, 12:57:22 AM5/2/16
to
no aluminium parts involved, like an aluminium cassette body for
example. Shouldn't be too hard. Cheaper stuff is likely all steel.
--
JS
Andre Jute
May 2, 2016, 9:38:12 AM5/2/16
to
On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:50:08 AM UTC+1, John Doe wrote:
Bear with some background for a moment. In electrically assisted bicycles, the so-called pedelecs (though pedelecs now have a legal meaning of limited power but I'll use the word here to mean electrically assisted bicycle, any power), there is a clutch mechanism for gradual torque take-up, automatically operated, not under the rider's control, plus electronic controls which can be one of two types. They are either based on a torque sensor (Panasonic Bosch, expensive, proprietary, protected by defended patents) or altogether electronic and merely mimicking some kind of an assumed universal usage torque curve. I have the second one because the first is attached only to limp motors on unappetising bikes. It works well enough with motors up to 350W. I have other sophisticated software so that I can run the bike with zero assistance, thottle assistance under my manual control, or on any of nine preset assistance levels from very low to "get the fuck out of my way on that hill"; since I have fourteen gears in my Rohloff box from stump-pulling to three overdrives, you can see that it is overkill. On switch-on the lowest of the nine levels of assistance is automatically switched in; I know how to make the software do anything I want but I haven't yet killed that default because I normally leave uphill from my front door and my bike and painting gear together is probably over thirty kilograms. A Rohloff chain is best run pretty slack, but otherwise you can imagine a single speeder or hub gearbox setup, no tensioner.
Now we come to the relevant point. In operation I've found that setting off from standstill on the default automatically switched-in assistance, even at the lowest of its nine levels, definitely jerks the transmission, especially in low gears where the torque multiplication is greatest -- and the Rohloff low gears are reaaaaal low. So I normally switch out the default initial preset assistance and use the throttle for whatever assistance is required to set the bike rolling.
On my previous, less powerful motor, and fitted to the front hub rather than the bottom bracket as the present motor, I didn't fit the pedelec controls, using only the throttle, and had now problem with operating 250W smoothly at all times.
I therefore conclude that
a) if you hammer drill has some kind of clutch such as was fitted to a nice pedestal drill at a small engineering works in which I once invested,
b) and/or
c) you can move the drill's speed trigger to the handlebar and make it operate relatively smoothly, perhaps by lengthening the lever
you probably don't need anything more.
Certainly, people on endless-sphere operate motors exactly like mine at well over 750W on precisely the same control software, and you don't hear a great deal about wrecked sprockets or hubs, so I also think that James is very likely right, in steel bike components are good for quite a bit of power. I don't have any ali in my drive chain, only steel and stainless steel, and despite the motor I've since 2002 trebled my once-dismal mileage on transmission parts by upgrading to German engineering in the gearbox, stainless cogs, and KMC X8 chains with special shaping of the rivets. Operating on throttle rather than preset assistance at takeoff is not from fear of wrecking external components but to protect my expensive gearbox from undue disturbance.
> I have two current concerns... Easily and neatly cutting a square 1/2 inch
> hole in a 3 3/8 inch thick aluminum disk. That's no big deal. The second
> is a little more technical, that's providing spring tension in the
> drivetrain so that power can be applied without worrying about jolting
> things when the sprocket catches up to the wheel speed. I think that can
> be done by modifying an ordinary chain tensioner. It hasn't wrecked my
> current bike, but this one's more powerful.
Mmm. If you fit a more powerful spring to a chain tensioner, it will also jerk back more powerfully. I've ridden a power-assisted derailleur bike and found the constant hesistation in response to the throttle irritating, and often followed by a sudden short speed surge which is disconcerting in traffic. I wonder if, in the light of what I said above, a zero tensioner installation might not work with merely a bit of slack in the chain.
If the tensioner is found to be essential, what you really want is a reversing resist that is fast-reacting in one direction and slow to react in the other. A small air or hydraulic damper will probably work better than a spring for your chain tensioning.
Apologies if you've already been there and back.
Andre Jute
Some problems are intrinsically more interesting than others
> Andre Jute <> wrote:
>
> > John Doe wrote:
> >
> >> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
> >> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
> >> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the
> >> controller, the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all
> >> together. The rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly
> >> removable.
> >
> > Next you want to add two right angle drill gears so you can get the
> > drill under the frame and snugged up to the tubes of the frame instead
> > of sticking out vulnerably like that.
>
> I've been thinking about this for years. The new one sticks out pretty
> far, partly because it's a hammerdrill. But the method for holding the
> drill and attaching it to the bottom bracket isn't going to change here.
> And that probably excludes using a right angle. That's assuming the
> bracket can handle the torque. But even if not, I'll try using a brace
> (wire or whatever).
Okay, you're building an electric motorbike, not an electrically assisted bicycle.
>
> > John Doe wrote:
> >
> >> If you already have powerful cordless tools, making a cordless drill
> >> powered bike is dirt cheap. My new bike uses a Dewalt DCD995 for $90
> >> (US). That's $90 for the gearing, the brushless motor, the
> >> controller, the battery holder, and the rugged case that holds it all
> >> together. The rugged batteries are from your tools and effortlessly
> >> removable.
> >
> > Next you want to add two right angle drill gears so you can get the
> > drill under the frame and snugged up to the tubes of the frame instead
> > of sticking out vulnerably like that.
>
> I've been thinking about this for years. The new one sticks out pretty
> far, partly because it's a hammerdrill. But the method for holding the
> drill and attaching it to the bottom bracket isn't going to change here.
> And that probably excludes using a right angle. That's assuming the
> bracket can handle the torque. But even if not, I'll try using a brace
> (wire or whatever).
Bear with some background for a moment. In electrically assisted bicycles, the so-called pedelecs (though pedelecs now have a legal meaning of limited power but I'll use the word here to mean electrically assisted bicycle, any power), there is a clutch mechanism for gradual torque take-up, automatically operated, not under the rider's control, plus electronic controls which can be one of two types. They are either based on a torque sensor (Panasonic Bosch, expensive, proprietary, protected by defended patents) or altogether electronic and merely mimicking some kind of an assumed universal usage torque curve. I have the second one because the first is attached only to limp motors on unappetising bikes. It works well enough with motors up to 350W. I have other sophisticated software so that I can run the bike with zero assistance, thottle assistance under my manual control, or on any of nine preset assistance levels from very low to "get the fuck out of my way on that hill"; since I have fourteen gears in my Rohloff box from stump-pulling to three overdrives, you can see that it is overkill. On switch-on the lowest of the nine levels of assistance is automatically switched in; I know how to make the software do anything I want but I haven't yet killed that default because I normally leave uphill from my front door and my bike and painting gear together is probably over thirty kilograms. A Rohloff chain is best run pretty slack, but otherwise you can imagine a single speeder or hub gearbox setup, no tensioner.
Now we come to the relevant point. In operation I've found that setting off from standstill on the default automatically switched-in assistance, even at the lowest of its nine levels, definitely jerks the transmission, especially in low gears where the torque multiplication is greatest -- and the Rohloff low gears are reaaaaal low. So I normally switch out the default initial preset assistance and use the throttle for whatever assistance is required to set the bike rolling.
On my previous, less powerful motor, and fitted to the front hub rather than the bottom bracket as the present motor, I didn't fit the pedelec controls, using only the throttle, and had now problem with operating 250W smoothly at all times.
I therefore conclude that
a) if you hammer drill has some kind of clutch such as was fitted to a nice pedestal drill at a small engineering works in which I once invested,
b) and/or
c) you can move the drill's speed trigger to the handlebar and make it operate relatively smoothly, perhaps by lengthening the lever
you probably don't need anything more.
Certainly, people on endless-sphere operate motors exactly like mine at well over 750W on precisely the same control software, and you don't hear a great deal about wrecked sprockets or hubs, so I also think that James is very likely right, in steel bike components are good for quite a bit of power. I don't have any ali in my drive chain, only steel and stainless steel, and despite the motor I've since 2002 trebled my once-dismal mileage on transmission parts by upgrading to German engineering in the gearbox, stainless cogs, and KMC X8 chains with special shaping of the rivets. Operating on throttle rather than preset assistance at takeoff is not from fear of wrecking external components but to protect my expensive gearbox from undue disturbance.
> I have two current concerns... Easily and neatly cutting a square 1/2 inch
> hole in a 3 3/8 inch thick aluminum disk. That's no big deal. The second
> is a little more technical, that's providing spring tension in the
> drivetrain so that power can be applied without worrying about jolting
> things when the sprocket catches up to the wheel speed. I think that can
> be done by modifying an ordinary chain tensioner. It hasn't wrecked my
> current bike, but this one's more powerful.
If the tensioner is found to be essential, what you really want is a reversing resist that is fast-reacting in one direction and slow to react in the other. A small air or hydraulic damper will probably work better than a spring for your chain tensioning.
Apologies if you've already been there and back.
Andre Jute
Some problems are intrinsically more interesting than others
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 2, 2016, 2:06:12 PM5/2/16
to
On Mon, 2 May 2016 14:57:17 +1000, James <james.e...@gmail.com>
wrote:
The drill is not anywhere near as strong as a well conditioned
cyclist -
wrote:
cyclist -
John Doe
May 2, 2016, 2:17:57 PM5/2/16
to
Thanks to the replies.
True, it's a motorcycle, not an assisted bicycle, but... The motor parts
cost $90 (total) and it can be applied to any bicycle of your choice.
I'm glad you're familiar with the pawl engagement banging problem.
Currently, I'm planning to probably just deflect the chain maybe 1/2 inch
with a semirigid wheel arm. And I'll use the derailer as a chain tensioner.
But I might ride around on it first, carefully.
Your point about the reverse force when power is released is something I
often overlook. But with the chain deflected only about 1/2 inch, it will be
unnoticeable and it cannot increase forward motion.
All that's really needed IMO is a rubber bumper someplace to stop the
banging when the freewheel pawls engage. But who knows where to put such a
rubber bumper.
Here's a pic of the easy connection to the drill trigger, from the cable
spooler (modified twist grip) on the handlebar.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/?
True, it's a motorcycle, not an assisted bicycle, but... The motor parts
cost $90 (total) and it can be applied to any bicycle of your choice.
I'm glad you're familiar with the pawl engagement banging problem.
Currently, I'm planning to probably just deflect the chain maybe 1/2 inch
with a semirigid wheel arm. And I'll use the derailer as a chain tensioner.
But I might ride around on it first, carefully.
Your point about the reverse force when power is released is something I
often overlook. But with the chain deflected only about 1/2 inch, it will be
unnoticeable and it cannot increase forward motion.
All that's really needed IMO is a rubber bumper someplace to stop the
banging when the freewheel pawls engage. But who knows where to put such a
rubber bumper.
Here's a pic of the easy connection to the drill trigger, from the cable
spooler (modified twist grip) on the handlebar.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/?
John Doe
May 2, 2016, 2:24:52 PM5/2/16
to
cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Sure, but a well conditioned cyclist's legs are not made of hardened
steel. They are much better controlled, driven by brain that knows
better than to repeatedly slap the pawls with lots of force.
It's either provide some sort of bumper/shock-absorber, or continue
engaging power gently as if using a manual transmission. Applying power
gently is a hassle.
Is adding a shock absorber really worth doing? Time will tell.
steel. They are much better controlled, driven by brain that knows
better than to repeatedly slap the pawls with lots of force.
It's either provide some sort of bumper/shock-absorber, or continue
engaging power gently as if using a manual transmission. Applying power
gently is a hassle.
Is adding a shock absorber really worth doing? Time will tell.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
May 2, 2016, 2:45:42 PM5/2/16
to
the road with it doing 19 miles an hour????
Add it up:"
driving with no insurance
Driving with no motorcysle licence
Driving an unfit vehicle:
Possibly including separate charges for no DOT approved tires,
Inadequate brakes, lack of minimum prescribed lighting
Depending on what your helmet laws are - driving withourt an approved
helmet.
In Ontario it adds up to over $2000 for a first offence, and over 8000
for a second or subsequent offense.
It is NOT a motorcycle because it does not meet the requirements, and
is not a motor assisted bicycle because it doesn't meat THOSE
requirements - so it is an unlicenceable, uninsurable motor vehicle
that has no exemption.
John Doe
May 2, 2016, 3:35:59 PM5/2/16
to
Obviously Canada law is different than United States law. And United
States law differs by state. Mine is not a nanny state. I've been riding
my first underpowered electric bike for 10 months with no hint of
trouble from the police.
I wear a helmet and use appropriate lighting plus reflectors. I also
strictly give way to pedestrians. And I'm extremely careful most of the
time to stay away from cars. The last important concern is keeping my
speed down, that's the only challenge I see with my new bike.
States law differs by state. Mine is not a nanny state. I've been riding
my first underpowered electric bike for 10 months with no hint of
trouble from the police.
I wear a helmet and use appropriate lighting plus reflectors. I also
strictly give way to pedestrians. And I'm extremely careful most of the
time to stay away from cars. The last important concern is keeping my
speed down, that's the only challenge I see with my new bike.
John Doe
May 4, 2016, 5:43:42 PM5/4/16
to
Added a picture of the complete bike. The foot rests are temporary, just
threw that on so it could be ridden riden around the block a few times.
Surprisingly, there is no apparent banging of the freewheel pawls. Maybe
because of the ordinary chain tensioner instead of my homemade chain
tensioner. I don't get it, but whatever, that's a very good thing if
it's for real.
The power and speed seem okay even though I was thinking "FASTER!
FASTER!". The gears are louder. The gearbox got warm after a few quick
trips around the block. Hopefully that's because I was pushing it.
Having the throttle on the handlebar is fun.
To be determined... Actual top speed. Miles per amp hour. Endurance.
The DCD995 seems not that much more powerful than my current DCD780, but
I might be underestimating the top speed.
--
threw that on so it could be ridden riden around the block a few times.
Surprisingly, there is no apparent banging of the freewheel pawls. Maybe
because of the ordinary chain tensioner instead of my homemade chain
tensioner. I don't get it, but whatever, that's a very good thing if
it's for real.
The power and speed seem okay even though I was thinking "FASTER!
FASTER!". The gears are louder. The gearbox got warm after a few quick
trips around the block. Hopefully that's because I was pushing it.
Having the throttle on the handlebar is fun.
To be determined... Actual top speed. Miles per amp hour. Endurance.
The DCD995 seems not that much more powerful than my current DCD780, but
I might be underestimating the top speed.
--
John Doe
Jun 10, 2016, 8:19:00 AM6/10/16
to
Added a bunch of pictures.
John B.
Jun 10, 2016, 10:33:23 AM6/10/16
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 12:18:58 -0000 (UTC), John Doe
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>Added a bunch of pictures.
>
>
>
>I wrote:
>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
That link doesn't seem to work. I got an answer that "As soon as
<alway...@message.header> wrote:
>Added a bunch of pictures.
>
>
>
>I wrote:
>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
Jakeisks puts the camera down, we may have an album to view".
and nothing more :-(
cheers,
John B.
John Doe
Jun 10, 2016, 12:00:10 PM6/10/16
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John Doe
Jun 29, 2016, 11:37:39 PM6/29/16
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It goes ZOOM. It is like riding a motorcycle. The Revo twist grip is almost
as good as a motorcycle throttle. Acceleration is smooth, it's a good match.
And DeWalt just upgraded their drills.
I wrote:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
as good as a motorcycle throttle. Acceleration is smooth, it's a good match.
And DeWalt just upgraded their drills.
I wrote:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
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