At NAPA, it's about $450 for parts, at Autozone about $370, and
O'Reilly will be just under $300. These are all using store-branded
parts, not the generic (in NAPA's case) or Moog brand (in O'Reilly's
case). Is there any significant reason for this, or any major quality
differences? We're talking about a bunch of machined metal and
rubber, not microcontrollers. For all I know they could all be made
by the same contractor.
Tempting as it it is, I see entire kits of everything listed above on
eBay for under $100. They're generic names, but no more generic
sounding to me than the store brands.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
more than likely the Ebay stuff is chinese crap. the branded stuff
may or may not be. that is harder to tell. KB
--
THUNDERSNAKE #9
Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
What's the price for Moog branded parts? I'd feel more comfortable
with those than any "generic" or "store" brand.
yes, these parts are not technically challenging to produce, but if
corners were cut and/or inferior materials were used, the consequences
of failure (esp. a ball joint or tie rod end) are not pretty.
nate
If you buy their cheapest parts, you may get some poor remanufactured
parts in some cases, or even Made in China. Not all China stuff is crap,
but a lot IS.
I have heard that Advance might be a higher level than Autozone but cant
confirm.
You may be able to find some of the online parts stores that can get you
high quality parts at good prices.
good point, I'd price out name brand stuff from Rock Auto, might be
even cheaper. I got a complete brake job for my F-150 for only a
couple hundred bucks (calipers, pads, shoes, rotors, seals, hoses,
hardware kits, etc - the only things I did not replace were the rear
drums and the bearings, because the bearings had just been replaced)
by picking up name brand (Raybestos and/or Wagner, usually) stuff on
closeout.
nate
First off, until the Congress reverses some the lying labeling
legislation they've installed to hoodwink buyers, it's often hard to
tell where these parts are made.
That's how the sellers want it.
Besides that, it doesn't usually matter in terms of quality.
I did ball joints and tie rod ends on my Lumina last year and had
the O'Reilly parts guy bring them out for me.
I went with Moog ends and the O'Reilly brand - ProParts? - ball
joints. Might have looked at some TRW parts too.
The Moog ends looked better enough to justify maybe an 86 buck premium
each, the joints looked the same, and didn't justify the maybe 20 buck
each premium.
But that's all my own voodoo. It's not like I could take them apart
or do Rockwell tests on them.
My kid does suspensions all day in a shop that only does suspensions,
99% trucks, from fire trucks and garbage trucks to pick-ups.
I just called him to ask what they use.
It's either Moog or OEM.
And he really doesn't know where either is made.
He "thinks" Moog are Made in U.S.A.
But he's not sure.
And he's not sure that Moog are the best either.
Just that's what they use.
Maybe they get a volume discount.
That eBay stuff just sounds too cheap. Maybe hammered out in some
Indian shipwrecker yard. The Indian billionaire that owns the
operation could pay off the right Congress critters or regulator to
get any junk into the country.
I'd go with the cheapest from a distributor than can be easily sued if
the parts cause an accident. That's the only fear that keeps them
half-way honest.
Otherwise there's probably not much difference.
Check that they at least have zerk holes tapped in them.
As I recall, the O'Reilly non-Moog ends didn't have them.
--Vic
>The Moog ends looked better enough to justify maybe an 86 buck premium
Oops. 8 buck premium.
Everything is still made in China, or some other Country. Stay away
from the Generic. Bottom line is you get what you pay for.. If you
plan on selling the car buy the cheap stuff otherwise stick with the
name brands.
Definetly, use parts that have Alemites (some people call them Zerks) on
them.You can grease them rugularly with a grease gun.
Moog and TRW have been in business for many years.I would go for OEM
parts.
cuhulin
NAPA branded parts are usually the second line MOOG or TRW parts, They
are considered second line because they are not branded as the TRW or
MOOG names. These would be the same as OEM parts they make. They also
sell the prime line from the big makers plus "OEM" parts.
Autozone sells three lines of parts. Store branded are generally imports
and are made by smaller companies. They may be high quality or they may
be crap, depends on which company made it. They are not all made by the
same company though. Then next step up are branded parts that are sold
in multiple chains but are not the OEM parts. Things like Spectra
radiators and Four Seasons A/C compressors. Then you get into the
O'Reilly, Shucks, Murray Discount Auto Parts, Checker, Kragen are all
owned by the same outfit. As such there parts are about the same. They
are DIY stores and sell three tiers of parts like Autozone does.
The differences are hard to see unless you strip down the parts.
The metals are NOT just metals. There are a LOT of different alloys out
there. Plus the actual machine work and how much machine work is done.
In the case of a DIYer who does his own labor the price may be the only
thing they look for. For a shop though having the warranty and faith in
the better parts is a good thing.
Personally I HATE having to re-do any repairs. So I tend to buy either
prime line or OEM parts. The thing with prime line is that they can be
better than the OEM parts EASILY.
As an example take a look at the gaskets used on the 4.3 and 5.7
engines. The OEM ones tend to fail due to the plastic cracking because
of the method of clamping them in the engine. When this started
happening a lot Fel_pro came out with a problem solver gasket. It uses a
better substrate to keep them from failing in those spots.
GM had to use up a TON of gaskets they already had before they started
using a new version.
--
Steve W.
I second Nate - price it out on www.rockauto.com I've bought a bunch
of stuff there. They usually have several levels of quality to chose
from and most of the time will beat the prices of even the discount
auto parts places with better quality parts.
Nobody else in this thread said it, so I will- Stuff That Can Kill You
is not the place to cut corners. If the engine stops running, it is a
PITA, but seldom fatal. If the brakes, tires, or major
steering/suspension components fail catastrophically, it can easily
become a very bad day. If you are keeping a beater or classic running,
more power to you, but you have to pick and choose where to save a buck.
I'll do without the nice stereo or new fuzzy dice if I have to, but I
won't buy anything less than OEM or better for the important stuff. The
no-name stuff may be fine, or it may be crap- you never know. And even
if it was fine last time, it could be crap this time. The generics and
house brands change suppliers all the time.
--
aem sends...
You especially dont need NAPA if you go with OEM parts, like you
recommended in your previous post..
Don't stint on the Important stuff.
cuhulin
Quality is what I wanted, and it turns out they can give me all Moog
parts for $340. That sounds like the way to go.
Now I just have to wait for warm weather.
Thanks!
-J
Warm weather officially started Tuesday, at least here. Time to go
shopping for a convertible...
nate
> Warm weather officially started Tuesday, at least here. Time to go
> shopping for a convertible...
I feel your pain. I am trying to be responsible for once, but I am
suffering from my wish I had a convertible itch. I haven't had one for
over three years and I still miss them. I was thinking I could pick up
a Saturn Sky cheap....
Ed
I think this bad boy would look OK with a little sawzall treatment,
whaddaya think?
http://members.cox.net/njnagel2/2008_06_01/2008_06_01_003.JPG
Too bad Studebaker never saw fit to offer a K-body convertible...
nate
Let me know when you get serious, I can help. (seriously.)
start by checking out the SDC forums...
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel