Exhaust plugged up
Dioclese
to affect the engine?
--
Dave
dave AKA vwdoc1
Some muffler places will drill a hole near the entrance of the cat to
determine backpressure.
I have removed a plug (02 sensor) to determine that.
What is the engine doing or not doing?
I always recommend rechecking the camshaft timing!!!
--
later,
(One out of many daves)
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
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None4You
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1...@pleasehotmail.com> wrote in message
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Dioclese
Reason I'm asking the question is because I had a bad coolant sensor in the
past. It took me some time to figure it out, a month. The tailpipe is
badly blackened, engine was running very rich.
Are you saying to physically remove the O2 sensor to see if there's
difference in engine power at higher rpms, like climbing hills on the
highway? If so, I can see that's markedly decreased in my observations.
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Dave
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1...@pleasehotmail.com> wrote in message
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dave AKA vwdoc1
Exhaust sounds different too! lol
"None4You" <None...@nospam.cya> wrote in message
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dave AKA vwdoc1
If you want someting better...........change it! ;-)
No don't just change the 02 sensor to another location unless you have to.
Now if you install another exhaust manifold and downpipe and neither had a
spot for the multi-wire 02, then put it on the cat. :-)
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
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Dioclese
reply. THAT is what I'm trying to determine before jumping to something
else. Just dust in the wind is what I'm getting... Nevermind.
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Dave
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1...@pleasehotmail.com> wrote in message
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dave AKA vwdoc1
If you try running the engine with the 02 sensor unplugged/removed then the
engine should run differently. ;-)
Usually poorly if the 02 sensor still functions! 8^o
WOW I answered that question about a test for a plugged catalytic converter
a couple of posts ago..........I will bring it back to the top now.
If the cat. conv. is clogged then the back pressure will be very strong
BEFORE the cat.
I also feel the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe! If it is strong then I
will assume that the cat is fine! <g>
>>>> Some muffler places will drill a hole near the entrance of the cat to
>>>> determine backpressure.
>>>> I have removed a plug (02 sensor) to determine that.
Now if yours is a VW up to 1992 then you might have a CO pipe that has an
easily removeable cap on it. Take that cap off and determine the back
pressure. Just a little exhaust should come out of it if it is not clogged.
Camshaft timing and ign timing can make the engine run well or poorly.
Also vacuum leaks can make the engine run poorly.
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
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Lost In Space/Woodchuck
light throttle at cruising speeds up to about 70mph the vacuum should stay
higher. If it drops off it maybe a sign of a bad cat.
"Dioclese" <NONE> wrote in message
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jme...@columbus.rr.com
The easy test is to get out on the freeway and accelerate up to the
speed limit (will maybe a little over) in a bit of a hurry. If it is
blocked, you should feel a lack of power and slow acieration. It may
hit like a brick wall. This is not a sure test, but it works well
most of the time.
If you don't know, likely it is not overly clogged.
Why do you think it is clogged?
Dioclese
the exit side of the cat. Guessing with near-plugged cat, the pressure on
the inlet side would increase dramatically as rpms increase near full
throttle.
The vacuum side on the intake could point to that as well.
Where's a good connection point for such a vacuum gauge on the intake?
--
Dave
We have a right to choose.
Choices have consequences,
for both self, and others.
You probably considered yourself.
"Lost In Space/Woodchuck" <nowa...@comcast.net> wrote in message
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<jme...@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
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------
>>This is correct. Lack of power is common when stepping on the gas. You
still need to remove the converter to examine it and see if anything falls
out. its just a few bolts and clamps. The symptoms vary depending on how
much its plugged. And how the engine was running before it became plugged.
And maybe caused the malfunctioning converter problem . I find that people
who don't want to remove their converter are usually afraid the exhaust
pipes will fall apart from rust. And this is reason enough to suspect a
plugged converter. Especially if a piece of delaminated exhaust pipe might
be in the converter.
Dioclese
Cat was replaced some 6 plus years ago. Aftermarket version, welded in
place. So, the loosen a couple of bolts to remove is not valid here. Local
Midas shop put the car on a lift and banged both mufflers and the cat
listening for loose internal components, nothing. All the piping has little
if any rust on it.
Again, I suspect cat blockage as the car ran very rich due to a faulty
coolant sensor for almost a month. And, has noticably slowed at highway
speeds at same amount of throttle. High speed acceleration is practically
nil.
Due to another response, I went out and got a vacuum gauge for checking the
intake vacuum. It reads 17 In/HG at 800 rpm idle. That area of the gauge
says possible late ignition timing. So, now I have to hunt down a timing
light.
Got a compression checking tool. Cylinders read the following:
#1: 137 psi
#2: 137 psi
#3: 138 psi
#4: 135 psi
Loosing coolant someplace. Filled the reservoir to spec, ran it till it
warmed up. Let it cool overnight, normal level for cold. Ran for about a
month, found coolant reservoir empty yesterday after driving back from town.
Filled to spec again, drove it a few miles. Don't seen any apparent leak or
dribble of one. Oil is clean colored, no milky shade. No antifreeze smell
inside the car.
--
Dave
New drilling sites for oil offshore and other
sensitive places. Question is, will that oil
go here in the U.S., or someplace else for sale?
Jim Behning
With a welded cat you eliminated my favorite visual test. I look at
both intake and outake looking for meltdown. I had had chunks fall off
the back so it looks clear but converter chunks acted like potatoes in
the pipe before the muffler causing quite a restriction
I have seen my car leak at the flange coming off the drivers side of
the head (USA drivers side). The aluminum had corroded to the point of
leaking. A new plastic flange from VW fixed that leak. Check your
antifreeze every day you drive it to see if there is some pattern like
driving it for a 100 miles in one setting cause a greater leak that a
week of 10 mile trips. I have had the radiator leak and a few hoses.
No head leaks in the years I owned Rabbits.
http://www.visn2.com/UsingVacumeGauge.html
http://dodge.justanswer.com/dodge/wiis-1998-dodge-grand-caravan-3-0l-engine
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_199905/ai_n8835448
Nate Nagel
should have just had the aluminum ones machined and/or filled the pits
with JB weld and filed flat, the plastic ones are known to warp and...
wait for it... leak.
nate
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NiK
excessive IMHO. Make up a gauge setup, pull your O2 sensor and cycle your
engine to WOT to get an idea. Anything under 2psi is great.
Fuel pressure is important, but don't ignore fuel VOLUME/Delivery as
pressure isn't the only factor. Flow is just as important in the fuel system
as the intake system flow- (read: Lose the K&N filter if you have it.)
BTW: If you had a serious 'rich condition' for extended periods, your Cat.
Conv. will likely suffer damage.
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