Milk of Magnesia Instead of Anti Sieze Lube on Spark Plugs?
A102_Hans
I ordered some NGK B5HS plugs for my ‘73 Beetle's stock Type I
engine.
Right after that I got an e-mail about installing plugs.
Here is part of it.
Before you get started, make sure your engine is cool.
Note: I wait until it has cooled for at least 12 hours or overnight.
Before you install your plugs, it is recommended that you put
something on your spark plug threads, to aid them in installing
smoothly into the cylinder heads, and also to keep them from siezing
in the cylinder head. DO NOT use anti-sieze type products on your
spark plugs! The anti-sieze can get on the plug and cause the plug to
foul, and also affect the grounding of the plug to the cylinder head,
resulting in a fouled plug as well. We have learned over the years
that despite what manufacturers say about Never-Sieze or Anti-Sieze,
they do SOMETHING to mess up how your engine runs. The recommendation
of Aircooled.Net is a trick learned from Jake Raby at Raby's Aircooled
Technology, and that is to apply a drop or two of milk of magnesia to
the threads of the spark plug. This is not a joke, we are totally
serious! This works very well as an anti-sieze, and will not foul your
spark plugs.
I have used Permatex Anti Sieze lube for years.
Do you think this is a good idea?
Anthony
never fouled a plug with it. If you glop it on, you could have a problem
but you're only supposed to put a little on the threads.
Tony
"A102_Hans" <Earlwo...@msn.com> wrote in message
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BobB
engines for the ignitors. They run in more extreme conditions than
your average recipricating engine. The do use the unflavored variety,
not sure if it makes a difference.
Bob
60 Westy
67 Westy
70 Bug
Dave Coeman
for mounting everything that can seizes from the heat. (spark plugs, Lamba
sondes, bolts on the exhaustsystem, where exhausttubes are connected
together....
And what is milk of magnesia?? Can somebody explain this. I live in Belgium
so english is not by native language...
Greetings Dave
1955 Oval (under resto)
1969 1300 Beetle
"A102_Hans" <Earlwo...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Rob J
Tim Rogers
Raby's Aircooled
> Technology, and that is to apply a drop or two of milk of magnesia to
> the threads of the spark plug. This is not a joke, we are totally
> serious! This works very well as an anti-sieze, and will not foul your
> spark plugs.
>
>
.................I'd like to hear from John or Jake here at RAMVA as to what
they think about why some of us have been able to use the copper based
anti-seize without experiencing any problems. My '77 runs perfectly on all
cylinders whether its being started on a sub-zero morning or being flailed
at 85 mph for over an hour. I'm also using the NGK's from Aircooled.Net and
the anti-seize goop was applied thinly to the threads only (I made sure that
there was none on the tips and the first row of the threads). An old
toothbrush is a good applicator.
Tim Rogers
Jan Andersson
> Dave Coeman wrote:
>
> > And what is milk of magnesia??
I had Milk of Amnesia once. Forgot where, and what it did to me...
;-)
Jan
ke...@edgenet.net
>We have learned over the years
>that despite what manufacturers say about Never-Sieze or Anti-Sieze,
>they do SOMETHING to mess up how your engine runs.
More than likely operator error. folks usually slather the stuff on and
fouling is one of the consequnces. Nevr-Seez and such are complicated
stews of hydrocarbons, graphite and metal powders. Plenty of stuff in
there that will turn to a more-or-less conductive scab ont the end of your
plug - if it gets there.
>The recommendation
>of Aircooled.Net is a trick learned from Jake Raby at Raby's Aircooled
>Technology, and that is to apply a drop or two of milk of magnesia to
>the threads of the spark plug. This is not a joke, we are totally
>serious! This works very well as an anti-sieze, and will not foul your
>spark plugs.
Like dairy milk it is a suspension of particles in water. Once you cook
off the water, what's left is essentially a non-conductive ceramic powder,
one of the oxides of magnesium (IIRC). The powder keep the threads from
sticking together.
>I have used Permatex Anti Sieze lube for years.
>Do you think this is a good idea?
Yes it will work fine.
The absolute best for this would be Boron Nitride which I have used in
metal casting and extrusion processes as a lubricant or mold release
coating. Check out www.zypcoatings.com and look for Boron Nitride
Releasecoat. If you are up for it you can usually cheese them out of a
tiny sample jar that would coat you plugs for the rest of you life. It's
usually sold in 1 gal pails at $55/gal.
Are you listening Jake?
Fweem
John Spohn
[no VW's at present... aaagh!]
John Connolly
when a car came in running like shite, if the ignition was OK, it was either
1 of 2 things.
1) the carb too rich
2) neversieze on the plug threads.
I have heard over and over that the product doesn't change the electrical or
heat transfer characteristics of the plug, and I don't care. it changes
SOMETHING and the plugs foul. If you guys are using it and not having a
problem, that's fine, continue to do so if you want. But the one way to
avoid the problem is to not use the anti/never sieze, and THAT is why I tell
guys to avoid it. I've just seen too many cars where the owners (or me)
chased a problem around to find that it was that crap on the plug threads.
And it's no fun to get off either.
John
Aircooled.Net Inc.
"Tim Rogers" <t...@stny.rr.com> wrote in message
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Tim Rogers
news:b484im$1s2vve$1...@ID-61523.news.dfncis.de...
>
> If you guys are using it and not having a
> problem, that's fine, continue to do so if you want. But the one way to
> avoid the problem is to not use the anti/never sieze, and THAT is why I
tell
> guys to avoid it. I've just seen too many cars where the owners (or me)
> chased a problem around to find that it was that crap on the plug threads.
> And it's no fun to get off either.
>
>
.................Well, at least I got you out of 'lurking mode'......LOL!
...........Seriously, If you and Jake recommend MOM then I'll definitely
start using it......next time.......maybe......
<G>
John Stafford
> .................Well, at least I got you out of 'lurking mode'......LOL!
>
> ...........Seriously, If you and Jake recommend MOM then I'll definitely
> start using it......next time.......maybe......
When I lived in England I became reluctant to have anything in the shop
that could be consumed after the day I 'discovered' that used oil is
indistinguishable from Guinness in look, pour and temperature. MOM?
*shudder*
A102_Hans
> What about coppergrease?? Some mechanic recommended me using coppergrease
> for mounting everything that can seizes from the heat. (spark plugs, Lamba
> sondes, bolts on the exhaustsystem, where exhausttubes are connected
> together....
> And what is milk of magnesia?? Can somebody explain this. I live in Belgium
> so english is not by native language...
>
> Greetings Dave
>
Milk of Magnesia is an over the counter anti acid medicine available
without a prescription that is supposed to help relieve heart burn and
upset stomach I think.
It may contain magnesium.
dragoneyre
Hmmmmm, wonder if prune juice would do as well. It certainly greases the flume.
TerryB
Relieving indigestion is just a side affect of having your entire GI track
squeaky cleaned.
--
Terry B
AKA VDUBBS
Buggin in Bama
http://vdubbs64.tripod.com
Email - vdubbs at highstream dot net
64 Bug Rauchen
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"A102_Hans" <Earlwo...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Funkie
"Jan Andersson" <bug...@rocketmail.com> wrote in message
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eibbo...@gmail.com
However, using MOM is not recommended for spark plugs. MOM is Not conductive for electricity and will cause misfires. I found this out the hard way using MOM on the spark plugs in my 65 Corvair.
MOM is great for the bolts in the hot end of a turbo or exhaust manifolds and header bolts. It is not very good in cold to warm areas especially if exposed to moisture.
I've never had much problems removing spark plugs in cars like my Corvair or Motorcycles. For the most part, many brands of spark plugs have been made with an anti-seize coating or plating on the threads from the factory for a long time now. Those are the only ones I buy now. The rule is, if it has a shiny silver coating or plating, it has anti-seize and most would recommend buying that type over the non plated type. But every manufacture I've checked with says Not to use any anti-seize compound on the threads.
Most of the problems come from carbon buildup on the end of the spark plug. Carefully running a tap or an old spark plug body that you cut or file groves in the threaded portion, will clean the spark plug threads and is usually good enough. But be careful and know what you are doing or you could get in to trouble or do damage.
I've never heard nor have seen MOM being used on aircraft spark plugs either. I have seen it used on jet engine igniters but the electrical systems in aircraft are different than in cars. They don't use the engine as a ground and they use special spark plug or igniter wiring that contain both leads, positive and negative. Even so, I've had to remove many broken spark plugs from big reciprocating (piston) radial engines and a few jet engine igniters. It is a big job and requires careful work with special tooling and insuring that any metal chips that get in to the piston area get removed. I've also had to fix the spark plug threads with threaded inserts. Helicoil Brand makes kits for 18 mm, 14 mm and I'm sure that they make the smaller threaded ones like the 12 mm and 10 mm too that are in some newer cars.
To sum it up, never use MOM or any type of anti-seize compound on spark plugs. Always buy the ones that come with an anti-seize plating from the manufacture. Make sure that the threads are in good condition and clean. Never over tighten spark plugs. If the threads do get stripped out from the head, take it to a machine shop that can repair the head with a threaded insert. Or if you have the know how, buy a kit and do the repair yourself.