no spark 92 acura integra?
Mark Detro
decided it would be a good idea to change the cap and rotor just to be safe
(car was running just fine but it does have 112,000 miles on it). I did have a
problem with the rotor screw not wanting to come out so I had to break the old
rotor off then cut a groove in the screw so i could use a large standard blade
screwdiver. After putting it all back together, I get no spark.
I did do various tests, I tried using all the old parts again thinking that
I might have got a faulty cap or rotor. I even repaired the old rotor and tried
it too, nothing. I went to the coil, I have no spark out of it direct, but I do
have voltage to it. I went as far as running some jumpers off the coil leads to
an accel super coil I have and still get nothing! As far as everthing else
inside the distributor, I am stumped as to how they work and what would be next
inline. I am also really stumped because I did not have any problems before
(was just doing preventative maint.) All I can think of is that I zapped
somehing somehow. If anyone has any ideas I'd sure apretiate it.
Thanks
Mark Detro
IMPBA Dist. III
Sarasota, FL
RM
sits inside the distributor. There is also a cam/crank/tdc position
sensor there in the distributior (3 sensors in one).
make sure you did not damage any of the connections to the ignitor
module, as it sits right below the rotor (typcially under a little
plastic shield that gets cracked if/when you have to pry off a stuck
rotor)
I'm sorry I can't remember, but I believe you should see one side or
the other of the primary side of the coil go on/off as the engine
cranks if the ignitor/ECU (engine control unit) is working.
I know that on the 92 Accord, if the ignitor is toast, you need to
crank the engine for about 30 seconds (according to the factory
service manual) to get the ECU to set a trouble code (and the check
engine light will come on).
George Macdonald
> If its not broke, don't fix it!!! Heres my problem; 92' integra DOHC. I
>decided it would be a good idea to change the cap and rotor just to be safe
>(car was running just fine but it does have 112,000 miles on it). I did have a
>problem with the rotor screw not wanting to come out so I had to break the old
>rotor off then cut a groove in the screw so i could use a large standard blade
>screwdiver. After putting it all back together, I get no spark.
Did you leave the distributor on the car to do this? I just did the same
job on a '92 Integra and it was hell getting the old rotor off - bloody
stupid Philips screw at an awkward angle and the rotor was rusted to the
shaft. The inside of my distributor was full of red dust so I had to
replace the body a week later anyway... from which I found it's much easier
to work on off the car and it only takes a few minutes to dismount/remount.
You say you broke the rotor off and cut a groove in the screw. A couple of
things come to mind here: 1) it's been suggested here previously that
physical shock can damage the coil so I wonder, when you broke the rotor
whether you rapped the coil; 2) when I had to grind the metal boss of the
rotor to get it off, the metal filings stuck to the magnetic part of the
sensor. Did you check for and clean any metal filings completely out of
the body after the cutting operation?
> I did do various tests, I tried using all the old parts again thinking that
>I might have got a faulty cap or rotor. I even repaired the old rotor and tried
>it too, nothing. I went to the coil, I have no spark out of it direct, but I do
>have voltage to it. I went as far as running some jumpers off the coil leads to
>an accel super coil I have and still get nothing! As far as everthing else
>inside the distributor, I am stumped as to how they work and what would be next
>inline. I am also really stumped because I did not have any problems before
>(was just doing preventative maint.) All I can think of is that I zapped
>somehing somehow. If anyone has any ideas I'd sure apretiate it.
Apart from the coil, the only other part which could be bad, apart from the
main ECU itself is the igniter module which is inside the distributor - at
the bottom as mounted in the car. This was the subject of recalls on
previous year models. BTW it's been reported here that a coil which
measured OK with an Ohmeter turned out to be bad. Neither part is cheap so
I hope you get the right one first.
Rgds, George Macdonald
"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??
The Good Bohemian
>
> I know that on the 92 Accord, if the ignitor is toast, you need to
> crank the engine for about 30 seconds (according to the factory
> service manual) to get the ECU to set a trouble code (and the check
> engine light will come on).
>
The 90-93 Integras will not set a fault code if the coil or ignitor are
shot. I know this from expereince when I replaced the ignitor (ICM)
only to find out that it was the coil that was bad. If I had my ohm
meter handy, all would have been well in the first round -- ah well. I
still saved a pile of cash.
BTW... the coil and ignitor aren't that expensive. The coil is about
$80 CDN at the dealer and the ICM is maybe $140 I think. Anyway...
make sure you don't reinstall the distributor 180d out of phase. This
will cause a 'no start' condition and can be corrected with a little
thought and no outlay of cash.
Good luck.
Andrew.