Manual transmission problems....help!
j.d.rustvold
and I think it`s starting to go out. I`m finding it hard to downshift at
high RPM`s. The gear shifter takes a lot of `force` to downshift and get
into a lower gear. Down shifting at low RPM`s doesn`t seem to render the
same problem. Is my clutch going out or do I just need to have it
adjusted? This is the first time I`ve had to deal with a clutch problem,
and I was curious about exactly what`s wrong with it? Is this a common
occurance when the clutch goes? The reason I ask is because you usually
hear about slipping and not this problem. Can someone explain what`s
wrong with my clutch?
Thanks for the help,
Jonathan
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
George Jefferson
:and I think it`s starting to go out. I`m finding it hard to downshift at
:high RPM`s. The gear shifter takes a lot of `force` to downshift and get
first of all, if its taking alot of force, don't do it. The problem
may be that you have worn/broken your syncro's, or you will soon
if you keep forcing it. If you are in the habit of downshift you
need to learn to rev match. (A good way to learn is to bust the syncros
so you have to rev match to get it in gear at all, ..like I did )
Anyway, another possability is that the clutch is not quite dis-engaging
fully, which would point to the hydraulics or possably the pressure plate.
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
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Kevin Mouton
>
> I have a '93 Honda Prelude Si with 70,000 miles on the original clutch
> and I think it`s starting to go out. I`m finding it hard to downshift at
> high RPM`s. The gear shifter takes a lot of `force` to downshift and get
> same problem. Is my clutch going out or do I just need to have it
> adjusted? This is the first time I`ve had to deal with a clutch problem,
> and I was curious about exactly what`s wrong with it? Is this a common
> occurance when the clutch goes? The reason I ask is because you usually
> hear about slipping and not this problem. Can someone explain what`s
> wrong with my clutch?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Jonathan
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Before you buy.
The symptoms you described don't sound like a clutch problem to me. Have
your transmission fluid level checked. They can get hard to shift when
low on fluid. If the fluid is ok then you probably have worn
synchronizers and will likely need an overhaul to repair them.
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****************************************************
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"If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
Red Green
Bart Youngblood
that's not the problem, sounds like you have problems with the syncronizers.
You could try double clutching it in the meantime to extend what life is
left in the tranny, although it won't solve your high RPM problems because
its difficult to double clutch at high RPM's.
Bart
"j.d.rustvold" <lud...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:8vulif$d2f$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Stephen Dailey
> I'm pretty car illiterate, so help me out a little bit here. Is it
> possible for me to check the transmission oil myself? Is there a
> dipstick like on automatic cars? If so, where is it located? I just
> looked all over hell and gone, and couldn't find anything but the engine
> oil dipstick (probably doesn't help that it's pitch black out either!).
> Also, if the fluid is what the problem is, wouldn't it also be hard to
> 'up'shift as well as downshift? Donwshifting is fine at low RPM's just a
> little stiffer at high RPM's.
There should be a fill plug on one side of the transaxle. If it's like
every RWD manual trans I've seen, oil should be to the level of the plug.
Remove the plug and stick your little finger in the hole. If you don't
get oil on your finger, add oil through the same hole. A piece of tubing
you can jam onto the gear oil squeeze bottle will help a lot.
Check your owner's manual to see what weight gear oil the transaxle
requires. Also make sure the car is parked on a level surface when you
check the transaxle oil.
I would recommend getting a Haynes or Chilton manual. Either should have
useful illustrations.
My advice is free. It's worth every penny. :-)
===
Steve
Woodinville, Washington USA
smda...@seanet.com
27 Nov 2000, 2155 PST
m...@here.com
Hard shifting could be indicative of low oil in the tranny.
Have it checked before anything else.
Daniel Katz
know that it is easy to do on an automatic trans, but what about a manual?
Dani
Kevin Mouton <kev...@bellsouthgarbage.net> wrote in message
news:3A2300F3...@bellsouth.net...
> "j.d.rustvold" wrote:
> >
> > I have a '93 Honda Prelude Si with 70,000 miles on the original clutch
> > and I think it`s starting to go out. I`m finding it hard to downshift at
> > high RPM`s. The gear shifter takes a lot of `force` to downshift and get
> > into a lower gear. Down shifting at low RPM`s doesn`t seem to render the
> > same problem. Is my clutch going out or do I just need to have it
> > adjusted? This is the first time I`ve had to deal with a clutch problem,
> > and I was curious about exactly what`s wrong with it? Is this a common
> > occurance when the clutch goes? The reason I ask is because you usually
> > hear about slipping and not this problem. Can someone explain what`s
> > wrong with my clutch?
> >
> > Jonathan
> >
> > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> > Before you buy.
>
j.d.rustvold
kev...@bellsouthgarbage.net wrote:
> Have your transmission fluid level checked. They can get hard to shift
when
> low on fluid. If the fluid is ok then you probably have worn
> synchronizers and will likely need an overhaul to repair them.
> --
I'm pretty car illiterate, so help me out a little bit here. Is it
possible for me to check the transmission oil myself? Is there a
dipstick like on automatic cars? If so, where is it located? I just
looked all over hell and gone, and couldn't find anything but the engine
oil dipstick (probably doesn't help that it's pitch black out either!).
Also, if the fluid is what the problem is, wouldn't it also be hard to
'up'shift as well as downshift? Donwshifting is fine at low RPM's just a
little stiffer at high RPM's.
Thanks again,
m...@here.com
> kev...@bellsouthgarbage.net wrote:
>> Have your transmission fluid level checked. They can get hard to shift
> when
>> low on fluid. If the fluid is ok then you probably have worn
>> synchronizers and will likely need an overhaul to repair them.
>> --
> I'm pretty car illiterate, so help me out a little bit here. Is it
> possible for me to check the transmission oil myself? Is there a
> dipstick like on automatic cars?
Usually not.
> If so, where is it located?
Usually, there's a hole, big enough to put a finger in, on the upper
half of the transmission, with a bolt in it. Normally, it should
be filled up to the hole.
It's exact location may vary, so you might need to consult with
a manual.
Matt
(ie., level) with some jack stands. Pull off the right front tire and then
you can see the transaxle bolts. The top one is to check the level. You'll
need a manual to be able to identify the correct bolt (the Helm is by far
the best.) I doubt a mechanic would charge you much to check the level. BTW,
the washer should be replaced when either bolt is removed (an old washer can
cause a leak.)
j.d.rustvold
Stephen Dailey <smda...@seanet.com> wrote:
> In article <8vvbua$uvf$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>, lud...@excite.com says...
>
>like every RWD manual trans I've seen, oil should be to the level of
>the plug.
> Remove the plug and stick your little finger in the hole. If you
>don't get oil on your finger, add oil through the same hole. A piece
>oftubing you can jam onto the gear oil squeeze bottle will help a lot.
>Check your owner's manual to see what weight gear oil the transaxle
>requires. Also make sure the car is parked on a level surface when
you check the transaxle oil.
>I would recommend getting a Haynes or Chilton manual. Either should
>have useful illustrations.
>
>My advice is free. It's worth every penny. :-)
>
> ===
> Steve
> Woodinville, Washington USA
> smda...@seanet.com
> 27 Nov 2000, 2155 PST
Ok....I drained and changed the transaxle oil this evening, and my
problem still exists. I'm starting to think that it's the clutch. It
seems that the clutch isn't releasing all the way when depressed thus
making it difficult to downshift. The clutch is definitely not slipping
whatsoever. I also noticed that it's *NOT* RPM related....more of a
speed (wheel speed) related problem. I was going about 60 miles an hour
and tried to downshift into 4th from 5th with my RPM's at 1000 and the
problem still presented itself....that's what leads me to believe it's
not RPM related. When I try to downshift, the resistance of the
gearshifter feels like it would if the clutch wasn't depressed at all.
Could this be hydraulics?
Thanks again for the help....:o)
C.R. Krieger
>
> Ok....I drained and changed the transaxle oil this evening, and my
> problem still exists. I'm starting to think that it's the clutch. It
> seems that the clutch isn't releasing all the way when depressed thus
> making it difficult to downshift.
If the clutch weren't releasing properly, ALL your shifts would be
difficult. The shifts you're attempting are the most challenging for the
SYNCHRONIZERS (they've got an easy job on upshifts, but listen to them whine
when downshifting), so that is likely where your problem lies. And, to
anticipate your next question, no, there is no way to check them without a
teardown. If you downshift a lot, especially if you're not real careful
about rev matching, your synchros will die sooner.
--
C.R. Krieger
"Ignore 'em, m'dear; they're beneath your dignity." - W.C. Fields
(To reply, remove the obvious Spam condom.)
Stephen Dailey
war...@lakefieldDOT.net says...
> j.d.rustvold <lud...@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:901bfh$ic0$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> >
> > Ok....I drained and changed the transaxle oil this evening, and my
> > problem still exists. I'm starting to think that it's the clutch. It
> > seems that the clutch isn't releasing all the way when depressed thus
> > making it difficult to downshift.
>
> If the clutch weren't releasing properly, ALL your shifts would be
> difficult. The shifts you're attempting are the most challenging for the
> SYNCHRONIZERS (they've got an easy job on upshifts, but listen to them whine
> when downshifting), so that is likely where your problem lies. And, to
> anticipate your next question, no, there is no way to check them without a
> teardown. If you downshift a lot, especially if you're not real careful
> about rev matching, your synchros will die sooner.
True, but just to rule out the clutch once and for all, make sure the
clutch fluid is filled to the proper level (I assume your Prelude has a
hydraulic clutch). The clutch likely uses brake fluid, but check your
owner's manual before topping off. It's normal to have to add fluid to a
hydraulic clutch system as the clutch disc wears; that's why you don't
have to adjust it like you would a mechanical clutch.
===
Steve
Woodinville, Washington USA
smda...@seanet.com
28 Nov 2000, 2103 PST
Izzy...
SFORZA <sfo...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001129192601...@ng-fz1.aol.com...
> >If the fluid is ok then you probably have worn
> >synchronizers and will likely need an overhaul to repair them.
> >--
>
>
Remove and rebuild (or replace) transmission.
A few thousand dollars should do the trick.
http://www.spdusa.com/shifting.htm
This is a Subaru oriented site, but they have a wealth of info on
driving tips - really worth the read. This particular page has good
info on how to shift so "your car will like you when it has 100,000
miles on it."
Just learning to wait on the machinery when shifting (read the article!)
is usually enough when the transmission is "worn out".
On my two manual-trans cars, the shifitng action is really rough and
usually clacks/grinds a bit when shifting carelessly. Simply waiting
on the machinery is all it takes for good shifting.
- Pete (Subaru @ 180kmi, Mazda @ 110kmi)
SFORZA
David Goodwin
>
>Hard shifting could be indicative of low oil in the tranny.
>Have it checked before anything else.
Ok, so what's happening when the tranny develops a high pitch whine?
It's a 98 Suzuki Sidekick with 41k miles on all original equipment.
The whine seems to correspond to revs, raising in pitch as the revs go up.
Any ideas?
This is my first manual, so I'd appreciate any helpful maintenance tips.
--
David Goodwin goo...@bigfoot.com <*>
Corvallis, Oregon, USA http://goodwid.feather.net
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