It is an interesting question, but you first need to do some math, and then to understand the forces involved.
First (and I will first calculate in old and new currency here):
How fast is the stylus going?
A 12" Disc uses from about 11-7/8" to about 5" for actual signal. To make life easier, we will use 12 and 4. Meaning that the average diameter is about 8". Pi x 8 x 33.33 = distance per minute. Use 838 inches per minute. Use 70 feet per minute. Which is about 1.16 fps, or 4,200 feet per hour. On average.
How much does the stylus "weigh"?
Use 2 grams. Use 0.2 x 0.7mm as the stylus bearing area. Giving a total bearing surface of a bit more than 0.14
sq.mm. That comes to 51 grams per
sq.mm. One
sq.mm. = 0.00155
sq.in. Or, 645
sq.mm. = 1
sq.in. 51 x 645 = 39,345 grams per square inch (39.345 kilos). = 1,405 ounces per square inch, or ~87 pounds per square inch. Drag something that has a bearing surface of one square inch and weighs 87 points at 70 feet per minute over a rough vinyl surface while bouncing it 10,000 times per second and, I suspect, there will be some evidence of that passage. (70 fpm = 21.3 mpm)
Now, consider that said sylus is jumping up, down and side-to-side at anywhere from about 20 to about 20,000 times per second and all parts between. That it is as hard as (at least) an industrial sapphire or diamond is a good start. Steel needles back in the day moved much faster, but had a much greater bearing area - but were designed to play one (1) time per use. ONE TIME. Edison learned early, and developed the vertical diamond stylus.
Cutting to the chase:
Too cold, and the diamond (read small, dull chisel) will shear off the sharpest points on the groove. Too hot, and the vinyl will be in a plastic stage and those points will be rounded, or even folded over. Vinyl has no memory, so would not 'recover' as some plastics.
Ideally, any given vinyl disc should be played no more than once (1 time) per 24 hours to give the surface a chance to equalize in temperature and to give the peaks and valleys a chance to re-polymerize with the rest of the substrate. I would go so far as to suggest that no vinyl disc should be played about about 80F or below about 85F (15.5C to 29.5C).
As to "summer" tires vs. "Winter" tires: once the vehicle has gone a few miles/km on smooth pavement, the friction has warmed the system to the point that it should make no functional difference. This is not to suggest that there are no differences in rubber formulations - there are, and they are significant. And, those differences are most significant when the tires are actually being used per their design: A winter tire on an icy or ice-and-snow mix will have definite advantages over a summer tire, even were it to have an aggressive tread design. And a winter tire driven on a hot asphalt road in the middle of the summer will wear out very quickly. But on dry pavement in the winter after those first few miles, the tires are about equal - based on actual tread design.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA