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rec.autos.makers.chrysler FAQ, Part 1/4

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Dave

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Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
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Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1996/8/6
Version: 3.4s

NEW STUFF:
Correction to fuel injection question
Some resources

FAQ For Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler

This FAQ is being maintained by David Zatz (za...@ssnlink.net)

CONTENTS

Part 1 -
Related Resources (groups, www, recall/TSB info)
Before You Post, Read This!
The Newsgroup: charter, notes, rationale
Frequently Asked Chrysler/Mopar Questions
Up and Coming

Part 2
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
- How to resolve problems with Chrysler Corp.
- Common problems and solutions
(see also Troubleshooting)
- What to check if I have this car/engine/etc.
Discussions: Oil filters, Consumer Reports

Part 3
Computer codes
List of engines
List of body types
Acronyms
Center for Auto Safety's Chrysler info
Diagnosing/tuning computer-controlled
carburetor systems

Part 4
Troubleshooting, all models, all years - always growing

Related FAQs:
Neon - maintained by the Neon mailing list.
************************************************************************
DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the
information in this compilation, the author and contributors
take no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information herein.
Some of the information is opinion rather than fact.
The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.
Parts of the FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is
given; that it is not published in book or magazine form
without the prior written permission of the maintainer;
that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a FREE
copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(za...@ssnlink.net = David Zatz).
************************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ.

2. Paranoia, overposting, and thoughtless posts are common.
Show off your intelligence and maturity.

3. Do not confuse the Chrysler Corp with your dealership, or even
with the zone office or the guy who picks up the phone.

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler or your dealer, read
the relevant parts of the FAQ (1,2) and the Web site.

5. The natural inclination of people who have been mistreated is
to respond to many posts with tales of woe and accusations at
Chrysler. However, all companies make lemons and all companies
sometimes fail to treat customers well. The auto industry
has poor standards, in general. In other words, try to restrain
your anger and bitterness, if you have it. The newsgroup will
help you to find a real resolution, whether that means fixing
a problem the dealership mechanics cannot, or helping you to
get a new car from CC.

5. Dealers are NOT under Chrysler's direct control.

6. Recurring problems are nearly always the fault of the dealer
or other mecahnics.

************************************************************************
- Related Resources:

Web Pages

Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central Central
http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/

* links to every known Mopar, Chrysler, Plymouth,
Dodge, Jeep, and Eagle site
* Now contains repair info too lengthy for the FAQ
* Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge/Eagle/Jeep coverage
* Contains LOTS of information and links
* Not connected with or supported by Chrysler Corp.
* Highly recommended - lots of relevant information
* Also includes information on dealing with Chrysler

Technical service bulletin / recall lookups:
Alldata - not recommended due to billing problems

Mailing Lists

To subscribe to the Neon mailing list, send 'subscribe'
in the body of a message to neon-r...@iastate.edu

The Mopar Mailing List is still very active and alive!
Serves mostly older Mopars and turbos
(performance oriented) - Mo...@mopar.tamu.edu

To subscribe to the Jeep mailing list, send 'subscribe Jeep-l'
in the body of a message to list...@knuth.mtsu.edu

To subscribe to the new Mopar list, first get the rules:
send a blank message to mopar...@lists.fiber.net
or visit http://www.fiber.net/mopar/mopar-rules.html
-- Then send a message to mopar-...@lists.fiber.net
and in the body put: subscribe mopar
and in the subject line put: agree mopar-rules
-- For info, send a message to mopar-...@lists.fiber.net
and put info into the body.

To subscribe to the AMC/Jeep mailing list, send
'subscribe amc-list [your real name]' to
list...@scan.si.edu

To subscribe to the Dodge Dakota mailing list,
send a message to dakota-...@csclub0.cs.fredonia.edu
with subscribe [or subscribe digest] in the subject line.

To subscribe to the Dodge truck mailing list, send mail to
majo...@kodiak.esd.sgi.com with a message reading:
SUBSCRIBE RAMTRUCK
END
For info, try http://www.voicenet.com/~warthog/realtruck

To get the Imperial newsletter, write to xxl...@cts.com

Phone Numbers

1-800-992-1997 Chrysler Customer Service
1-800-465-2001 Chrysler Canada
1-800-626-1523 free catalog of CC information: service bulletin books,
owner manuals, service manuals, MasterTech newsletters, videos.
Designed for Chrysler dealers and mechanics.
1-800-677-5782 your local 5-Star Dealer
1-800-255-9877 Automobility Headquarters (reimbursements
for adaptation of new vehicles for people w/disabilities)
1-800-998-1110 Neon Racing Headquarters
1-800-4ADODGE information about Dodge
1-800-PLYMOUTH information about Plymouth; Neon CD-ROM
1-800-NEW-NEON information about Neon
1-800-253-0823 catalog of replicas of Chrysler vehicles
1-810-853-7290 Mopar Performance technical hot line
ONLY for Mopar Performance issues!!!
Lambros Racing 314-725-7181
Metro Moulded Rubber 800 878 2237/612 757 0310
Chrysler Electronics (direct source for computers, etc)
205 464 1200 / 800 448 0944

Other Resources

Plymouth Owners Club
Dues are $18 per year - Plymouth, Fargo 1928-1970
203 Main St., Cavalier, North Dakota 58220

Slant 6 Clubs: many local chapters

Chrysler Corp: suggestions and complaints to --
Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI 48015
Address dealer complaints to the
Dealer Agreements Department.
-- don't wait up for an answer; call!

Chrysler Canada Customer Service is at:
Chrysler Center, P.O. Box 1621
Windsor, Ontario N9A 4H6
-- don't wait for an answer; call!

Chrysler Import Deutschland GmbH
Chrysler Str. 1
D- 50170 Kerpen (Germany)
(02273) 957-0

Lemon-Aid Used Car Guide by Phil Edmonston
The Car Book (Center for Auto Safety)

Chrysler-only junkyard: e-mail to bo...@cyberspc.mb.ca

Forward Motion (mostly front wheel drive) is at 717-456-
6038; $5 for catalog to RR1, Box 249A, Delta PA 17314

Mopar Restos (parts), Route 1 Box 307-39.
Summerville, GA 30747, (706)857-2832

R/T registry: write to Cliff Ramsdell or Lorraine
10 Brainard Road, Enfield, CT 06082


************************************************************************
The last posted copy of the FAQ may be obtained by sending e-mail
to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with the following message:
send /pub/usenet/rec.answers/autos/chrysler-faq/general/part1
[or part2 etc]. Note that the archived copy is taken from the posted copy
and will not be any newer than the last posted copy.
******************************************************************
IMPORTANT NOTE.

People mainly post because they have problems, but that doesn't mean
Chryslers are low quality. Who would bother writing a message to say "I
have a 1992 Plymouth Acclaim, nothing is wrong, what should I do?"

WARNING. Some people spread disinformation about CC. Take what
you read on the Net with a grain of salt, because you only have
an anonymous (usually) word for it! While Chrysler has sometimes
screwed up, treated customers very badly, and made lemons -- as every
company has -- some (not all) reports of horror are not true. Beware
false stories, but be aware they might be real! This includes some
"information" about "secret recalls," paint, etc.

Some people produce prodigious amounts of misinformation, information
which may not be applicable to you, or information taken out of
context, making problems seem much larger. (AOL people, incidentally,
can post under different names). Keep all this in mind.

This is true for any newsgroup -- what you read on your screen is not
necessarily true.
***********************************************************

- The Newsgroup Rec.Autos.Makers.Chrysler -- CHARTER

COVERAGE. Rec.autos.makers.chrysler was set up to cover issues related
to cars and trucks made by Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Fargo, DeSoto,
Jeep, Eagle, and all other makes sold or marketed by Chrysler Corp.

BEHAVIOR. Political comments and commercial advertising will be
discouraged. However, *short* product announcements, preferably
restricted to the name, availability, and a very brief description of
the product's function (where applicable) are acceptable.

Discussion of whether Chrysler products are of good or bad quality,
lengthy comparisons to Hondas or other cars, and similar arguments and
flamewars with no foreseeable conclusion are heavily discouraged.
Participants are asked to be kind, considerate, and supportive, and to
generally keep an open, warm atmosphere so that the function of this
newsgroup may be maintained.

RATIONALE. This group is proposed to help Chrysler (CC) vehicle owners
to support each other, save money, and maximize their enjoyment of their
autos.

As in rec.autos.vw, Chrysler owners need a forum where they feel
unreservedly welcomed, and where they can obtain esoteric information
from involved people with similar experiences and vehicles.

This newsgroup should be general enough for those who know little about
cars to get a broad range of information and advise from, while allowing
those more into the products to exchange their views and advice.

In a world dominated by GM, Ford, and VW (Europe) products, Chrysler
owners often find discussions difficult. Most aftermarket parts and
advice are for GM and Ford owners; knowledge about Chrysler is hard to
find. The press don't cover CC as well as they could -- and CC's
dissemination of information to the press and the public is poor.

Chrysler products have quirks which most mechanics don't seem to be
aware of, leading them to replace transmissions when the fault is in a
20 cent vacuum hose, or to replace the engine computer instead of
plugging in a hose or changing a sensor. Chryslers are often seen as
ordinary American cars (unlike makes which many mechanics will admit
they are not familiar with) -- but what will work on a GM or Ford will
often not work on a Dodge. There is a vast ocean of experience in
Chrysler products out on the Internet which may help owners to save
time, money, and trouble.

CC vehicles are common enough, yet idiosyncratic enough, to deserve
their own place in the Net hierarchy -- just as Volkswagens are. In
addition, it is important for CC vehicle owners to have a place to
discuss the problems and benefits of ownership, to exchange detailed
information and personal experiences, in a supportive and positive
atmosphere. In short, I hope to develop a group as vibrant and helpful
as the Mopar mailing list or the rec.autos.VW group have been, while
making this group accessible to all Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, and
Chrysler owners, even those who don't know what a Mopar is.

************************************************************************
Thanks to Gene Fusco for the Mopar Mailing List's FAQ; thanks also to
Lloyd R. Parker, Wayne Toy, and Bohdan Bodnar.

*************************CONTENTS*****************************

I. CHRYSLER CORPORATION

1. What CC means
2. What is Chrysler's US customer service number? (toll-free)
1-800-992-1997
3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address? They don't have one yet!
4. What is Chrysler's Five-Star Dealers number?
1-800-677-5782.
5. How do I get a free catalog of publications (including TSBs)?
1-800-626-1523.
6. Doesn't Chrysler ever sell engines to Mitsubishi?
7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishi engines?
8. What's the deal with Chrysler Canada?
9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?
10. How can I get help for problems CC won't acknowledge or fix?
11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Talbot, Simca, etc?
12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful?

II. CARS

20. Is this good for my engine?
21. Do I have a Chrysler or Mitsubishi engine?
22. What should my tire pressure be? (FWD only)
23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?
24. What kind of oil filter should I use?
25. What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine?
26. What kind of engine do I have?
27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?
28. Which are the Diamond Star models?
29. What is a K-car?
30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?
31. What is an x body? (Where x=A,B,C,E,F....)
32. How can I increase the power of my engine?
33. How can I get automatic door locks?
34. What is returnless fuel injection?
35. When should I change my automatic trans fluid?
36. How can I get lighted knobs on my (early) Neon?
37. What kind of gas should I use?
38. Are minivans unsafe? What about the latches?
39. What about lemons?
40. Are K&N filters worth it?
41. Is there anything special I have to do if I have ABS?
42. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?
43. Is the Windstar really larger than the Caravan?
44. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about?
86. All other questions.
--------
* For troubleshooting, including the 2.2/2.5 engines, see Part 4.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. What does CC mean? Chrysler Corporation.

2. What is Chrysler's toll-free customer service number?

** 800-992-1997**

3. What is Chrysler's e-mail address? They don't have one.

4. What is Chrysler Five-Star Dealers number? 1-800-677-5782.

5. How do I get a free catalog of service guides? 1-800-626-1523

6. Doesn't Chrysler ever sell engines to Mitsubishi?

Yes, in the base Eclipse.

7. What's the deal with Chrysler still using Mitsubishi engines?

The 2.5 liter V6 is still used because Chrysler has no small V-6
engines. They are working on a 2.7 and 3.2 liter V-6, which will
probably replace all current V6s. The Chrysler/MMC relationship
is being phased out in the US; the Colt is gone and the Stealth
(and Talon?) will follow. Who knows about the Avenger/Sebring?

8. What's the deal with Chrysler's names in Canada and elsewhere?

Same names, different cars. Different names, same cars. In
Australia, ALL Chryslers were Valiants, including Chargers.

9. How reliable are Consumer Reports' ratings?

Judge for yourself -- see the discussion at the end of this file.

10. How can I get help for problems CC won't acknowledge or fix?

Jim Hoare suggests the Lemon-Aid Guide (by Phil Edmonston).
Also keep trying the Chrysler Customer Center. Know the TSBs.
Write to the Center for Auto Safety or NHTSA.

11. What's the deal with Chrysler Europe, Simca, and Talbot?

Chrysler owned Simca and Rootes/Sunbeam until the late 70s.
They modified the Omni design for these European subsidiaries.
CC sold Simca and Sunbeam to Peugeot, who kept the cars as they
were, calling them the Talbot Horizon. They had
Simca/Sunbeam engines instead of the Peugeot/VW/Chrysler engines our
domestic Omni/Horizons got. (Lloyd R. Parker)

12. Why are so many Chrysler dealers so awful?

Perpetual contracts. Organizational culture.
Incorrect assumptions at the corporate level. Ineffectual zone
officials.

********

20. Is X good for my engine? (includes Slick50)

The Toyota FAQ (Todd Haverstock)sez: "Independent
labs as well as engine manufacturer Briggs and Stratton have
rendered a verdict that Slick 50 and similar oil treatments are
useless. ... Products from other companies
marketing similar treatments can possibly damage your engine."
The Gasoline FAQ provides a long and serious discussion which
tells us that most gasoline additives are mostly useless.

21. Do I have a Chrysler (CC) or Mitsubishi (MMC) engine?

See part 3 for a definitive answer. However: Chrysler four-cylinder
engines are the 2.0 (1994+), 2.2, 2.4, and 2.5 (note that there are
two 2.5s; the 100 hp is Chrysler, the 125 hp is AMC, inherited by
Chrysler). Chrysler V-6s are 3.3, 3.5, 3.8, and 3.9; a 2.7 and 3.2
are soon to come. Slant six engines are pure Chrysler (170, 198,
225), and the 4.0 Jeep engine was inherited from AMC but much
modified. All V-8s and V-10s are Chrysler.

22. What should my tire pressure be? (FWD)

For front wheel drive, maximum pressure in the front (for
handling) with normal pressure in the rear (for ride). This gave
me good results with my Shadow (35/32). Different cars have
different pressures; some are higher.

23. What does SOHC, SMPI, etc mean? What do I have?

(RECENTLY REVISED)

DIS means distributorless ignition system. It allows 100,000 mile
tune-ups (no distributor cap, rotor, or timing settings), a lighter
and smaller engine, and greater efficiency. It is now standard on
new CC cars.

SOHC and DOHC refer to the number of camshafts; one or two.

EFI means electronic fuel injection, such as the following:

TBI - throttle body injection; a single fuel injector (sometimes
two) sprays fuel into the air as it heads to the cylinders. It is
more efficient than a carburetor and rarely needs adjustment.

MPI uses one fuel injector for each cylinder. It sprays fuel in the
intake manifold, firing at the intake valves. These are smoother than
TBI systems and have less hesitation. They have more power
*and* better mileage.

SMPI is sequential multiple-point injection; the injector only
fires when the fuel can go straight into the cylinder instead of
splashing onto a closed valve. This is also standard for CC now.
(It is timed to fire when the valve is open).

Direct injection sprays fuel directly into each cylinder. The fuel
cannot fall out of suspension. This is almost exclusively in high
performance Diesel engines (thanks, Michael Turley!)

24. What kind of oil filter should I use?

I don't know.
See the oil filter discussion at the bottom of this file.

25. What kind of oil should I use in my 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine?

On February 7, 1995, a Chrysler engineer said 5W30 was best for
2.0, 2.2, and 2.5 liter non-turbo engines, for winter or
year-round in climates such as that of New Jersey.
Unless you live somewhee really hot, use 5W30 in these engines.
All dealers I surveyed incorrectly recommended and used 10W30!

Energy Conserving II is more slippery. Go for SH if you can.

For my car, recommended oil changes are at 6 months / 7,500
miles. I change it at 5 months or 6,000 miles Turbo
owners should change oil more frequently.

** CHECK YOUR MANUAL **. Dealers often suggest things like changing
your antifreeze every three months to get lots of easy money. If
you decide to exceed Chrysler's recommendations, do as much of the
work yourself as you can (e.g. changing spark plugs). Most dealers
charge outrageous prices for simple service, and ask
customers to have their cars serviced far too often.

PS> Overheating after a an antifreeze change/radiator flushing
means your dealer didn't purge the system correctly.

26. What kind of engine do I have ???

Raise the hood and check the emissions sticker. You can decode your
vehicle ID number (VIN) using most car manuals (you can do it in a
bookstore while browsing). An emissions sticker will tell you the
displacement of the engine.

27. What is a Mopar? Do I have one?

Mopar is slang for a Chrysler-produced car. Some extend it to AMCs
and to MMC products (e.g. Colt) sold by CC; and some restrict it to
high performance cars only. It is also Chrysler's parts division.

28. Which are the Diamond Star models?

The term is usually used for all MMC and CC "collaborations,"
including the Stealth/3000GT and the new Avenger/Sebring. The Colt
and RAM 50 were MMCs sold by CC. Are they Mopars? Who knows?

29. What are the K-cars?

K-cars were the Reliant and Aries. Many cars were based on the K-car
platform, as a Lincoln and the Mustang are based on the Fairmont
platform (except that the K platform was good). Some say calling,
say, a Daytona a "K-car" is a flame; others say it is a compliment.
It depends on whether you bash the K-cars, which are all old now, or
praise them for their longevity (how many first-generation Escorts
are still around to be creaky?). - thanks to Mike Knox

Herb "Mopar Maniac" DaSilva adds:
... CC used the same components on the Aries/Reliant in many of
its other platforms. These platforms... share similar distance
between the wheels on the same axle, and have the same suspension
design. Most K variants can swap struts and
they will fit (H-body is one exception). All the following vehicles
are K-derivatives: Laser(pre-1988)/Daytona (G), Shadow/Sundance
(AP), LeBaron/New Yorker (J), LeBaron sedan(pre-1990)/Lancer
(H), Dynasty/New Yorker/Imperial (C), Acclaim/Spirit/LeBaron sedan
(HA-body). Each derivative has a different wheelbase and floor pan.
The mini-van is only loosely based on the K platform.

30. How do I find the fault codes stored in my engine computer?

See Part 3 of this FAQ.

31. How can I increase the power of my engine?

See the Web site (http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/) and the
resources way up at the beginning of this FAQ.

32. How often should I change my trans fluid?

Check your service manual. The severe service definition means that
the vehicle is operated primarily in one of those conditions.
Not once or occasionally. An automatic trans needs to have its oil
and filter changed when the oil gets discolored due to suspended
solids. ATF usually does not need to be changed unless
contaminated. The trans oil can get contaminated by overheating or
by severe internal wear due to abuse. Towing is the primary cause
of ATF contamination. I have never changed the oil in any of my
automatics and never have had a failure. My 1979 Volare has 167,000
miles on the ATF and is still working the same as when new. (Mostly
from Robert Muir).

Note: 4-speed automatic transmissions should have their ATF
changed every three years or so. It usually MUST be replaced
with Mopar ATF, NOT Dexron. SOME CHRYSLER TRANSMISSIONS WILL
BE DESTROYED AT YOUR EXPENSE IF YOU USE THE WRONG FLUID.

Note: Even some 3-speed CC transmissions are NOT compatible
with Dexron - read your manual !!!

33. How can I get lighted knobs for my Neon climate controls?

MK02RS6 4.10 This is blower knob.. smaller of the 4 MK01RS6
2.75 these are control (temp, vent) knobs. The RS6 is the
color code. RS6 is dark Quartz, RF8 is driftwood. There
is a different blower knob for the NON A-C cars

Drop the ash tray open, grab the bezel (cover surrounding radio and
A/C controls) and pull. It is held in place by 4 spring clips that
snap in. With that off, pull off the knobs and push on the new..
Align the bezel and push it back on, close the ashtray. -- Dave
Cooley, cool...@nando.net

34. What kind of gas should I use?

Consumer Reports reports that the following gas brands passed BMW's
tests as of April 1991 in North America, in regular, midgrade, and
premium form: Amoco, Atlantic, Chevron, Conoco, Exxon, Fina, Gulf,
Hess, Marathon, Mobil, Phillips, Shell, Sunoco, and Texaco.

35. Are minivans unsafe? What about the latches?

Lloyd R. Parker fields this one (reworded):

The latch issue was mainly not using seat belts or unfastened seats.
Lloyd said the Ford Aerostars, with the supposedly better latches,
had a HIGHER rate of ejections through the hatch. He mentions that
there were five million vans and not many ejections in that time.
Chrysler is replacing the latches for free - people are still
complaining that they did not magically come up with five million
latches overnight.

36. What about lemons?

To quote the rec.autos FAQ --
every auto manufacturer has manufactured a lemon or two; even Honda
admits to this. Please don't waste everyone's time by announcing to
the world that your `brand x' automobile is terrible, so
all brand x automobiles are terrible, so no one should ever buy a
car from the brand x company. Such articles are worse than
useless, because they cause wasted bandwidth while carrying little
or no useful information.

Some problems are a constant to all cars. Many blame Chrysler for
paint chips, scratches, etc., even when inspection of other cars
would show that their problems are not unique. But who looks closely
at other people's cars?)

See the Dealing With Chrysler section for more information (Part 1).

37. Are K&N filters worth it?

David Cooley reported on a magazine test of aftermarket air filters.
The paper filters were respectable, but the K&N and Accell filters
flowed almost 3 times as much air when dirty as clean paper filters
of the same size. The K&N passed less particulate matter than the
paper filter; as it got dirtier outside, they sprayed on a new coat
of oil (without cleaning) and found it filtered even better.

The maintainer notes that K&N filters change your engine note,
reduce the quantity of paper in landfills (rarely need replacement),
and flow better when dirty. Other than that, you won't notice much
difference unless you pass a lot of air through a small space
(Sundance) or run at high revs (Neon) a lot. Over time they will pay
for themselves, and there don't seem to be negatives, but don't
expect a sizable power boost.

38. Is there anything special I should do if I have ABS?

Don't rely on it. Leave safe distances between you and the next
car and remember that no system is infallible. Marv Miller suggests
replacing the brake fluid every 2-4 years regardless of car make.
Use only the brake fluid the car maker recommends!!! Fully
depressurize the system before adding or changing brake fluids.

39. What kind of transmission fluid should I use? Is Dexron OK?

Use ONLY what it says in your owner's manual to use. Many Chrysler
transmissions are NOT compatible with standard automatic
transmission fluid!

THIS IS AN IMPORTANT and very misunderstood issue. Please see the
discussion at the end of this part of the FAQ.

40. Which is larger - Windstar, or Caravan/Voyager?

Caravan/Voyager. Lloyd Parker also notes that the Detroit Free
Press removed the center and rear seats and stacked 135 soft drink
cases in a WindStar and 154 cases in a Grand Caravan.

41. Do I have one of those evil ABS systems I heard about?

If you have had problems with your Bendix ABS system, write to
United Technologies and say that you will not be buying any of
their companies' products.

These are the vehicles that had the ABS-10: (Thanks, G. Smith)
90-93 C body (Dynasty/New Yorker)
90-93 Y body (Imperial)
91-92 BB body (Premier/Monaco - Renault imports)
91-93 S body (Minivans - Caravan/Voyager)

Mike Knox adds the following post he saw in a humor newsgroup:
Fact: In response to a lawsuit alleging large numbers of failures
of their Anti-Lock Brake Systems, GM announced today that they
would continue to "stand behind" their anti-lock brakes.
Speculation: They might be less willing to stand in front of them.

86. All other questions.

Check the ballast resistor, vacuum hoses, and computer codes.


******************* UP AND COMING ******************

** NEW TRANSMISSION PLANT **

Being built as we speak in Kokomo to create four-speed
automatic transmissions for various truck lines.

** NEW ALUMINUM V-6 ENGINES **

Two small V-6 engines (to replace MMCs) are being worked on.
The 2.7 is due to produce 180 hp, the 3.2 220 hp. Both are
destined first for the LH series. The current 3.5 will be
retained, with a hp boost to reach 250 hp (they hope).
Both the 2.7 and 3.2 are 24 valve engines based on Chrysler
technology (not Mitsubishi). (Note the 2.7 has gone up
from 170 to 180 hp in about June 1996).

** NEW LH AND LHS **

Due in 1998, the new LH series will be redesigned -- making them larger
inside and about 20 inches shorter outside. They will get the new,
smaller, lighter weight 2.7 and 3.2 liter V6s. The LHS will be smaller!
than the LH, and will probably have the 3.5 liter engine, with 250 hp.

** NEW NEONS **

"Up Front" rumors that there is a supercharged 2.4L DOHC Neon. It's
alleged to feature 170 horsepower, lots of torque and MAY hit the
streets in 1997. The Winter 1994 Neon Racing Report, published by
Chrysler, states that there may be a limited slip differential
available for the Neon during the 1997 model year. (Wayne Toy)

From what my friends who work on the Neon at Chrysler tell me, the '98
Neon will be "substantially different" than the '95 Neons. The looks
will remain the same, the engines will be expanded, and their
number-one focus is on increasing quality (Mike)

Don't count on a supercharged Neon any time soon.
The big-engined Venom has been cancelled.


*********************** AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID ***********

Question:
Can the "universal" automatic transmission fluids be used in all
Chrysler vehicles calling for ATF+? The labels of the universal
brands do not mention Chrysler applications.

Answer:
Chrysler recommends that only ATF+ Type 7176 (PN 4467721) be used
in all Chrysler automatic transmissions with locking torque converters.
Substituting any other fluid can lead to problems. Mopar ATF+ allows
more slippage than other friction-modified fluids. Shifting and
engagement of the torque converter cluch (TCC) in virtually all Chrysler
automatics is controlled by the transmission control module (TCM) based
on a variety of inputs including throttle position, engine speed, input
and output speed and others. The result is that the TCM "learns"
operating characteristics and conditions for an individual transaxle.
The lock-up torque converter must operate in three states instead of
just two: unlocked, partially locked and fully locked. In partial lock,
a regulated amount of slippage is allowed at the converter cluch. If
the wrong automatic transmission fluid is used, the TCM can't
effectively regulate the amount of slippage in a partial lock condition
with the result being converter cluch shudder. Therefore, it is
important to use only Mopar ATF+ in all (modern) Chrysler automatics.
--
Wayne Toy milnet: t...@dockmaster.ncsc.mil

Note: Quaker State makers a 7176-specification trans fluid, which
is an alternative to Mopar brand.

(end of FAQ part 1)

Dave

unread,
Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part4
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1996/7/6
Version: 3.5

Added tips above #80 (19 on noise)
Added to mushy brakes and valve cover gaskets

DISCLAIMER:
Effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
in this compilation, but the author and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the
use of the information. Some of the information is opinion.
The writers and the maintainer are not authorities. Any part of
this FAQ may be reproduced PROVIDED that credit is given to
the writers and the maintainer; that it is not published in any


form without the prior written permission of the maintainer;

and that the maintainer receives, without needing to ask, a


FREE copy of the final material; and that no changes are made

without the express permission of the maintainer

(val...@mordor.com = Dr. David Zatz).
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Please do NOT ask me car-related questions, as I have a limited.
personal knowledge; send them to the newsgroup. Thank you.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
PART IV - Troubleshooting (on Chrysler products)

A list of which cars are included in which category is at the end.
There is a specific Neon FAQ.

* A diagnostic procedure for optical distributors is at the end.
* A procedure for checking air conditioning systems is in Part 3.
* A diagnostic procedure for checking ignition systems is in Part 3.

* Many problems are caused by poor battery connections to the cables,
which can cause signals to the computer to be incorrect without
(or with) fault codes being registered. Check and clean the
battery terminals and cables first!

* For heaven's sake, if your antifreeze was just changed and your car
started to overheat, find a different mechanic and purge the system of
air bubbles. (See below).

* Additional information on troubleshooting and repairs is on
the web site at http://www.mordor.com/valiant/

RECENT CHANGES


Classic Car troubleshooting is in PART 3 !!!

** Index for Modern Cars/Trucks/Minivans: **

Note: there are *several* entries for some problems, e.g. stalling.

1. * Important! Fuel leak alert! - ALL 2.2 engines
2. Rampage (maybe other models) - water leaks
3. Idle speed jumps OR Intermittent idle speed problems (2.2/2.5)
*** (see also #28) - rough idle is in other items too
4. Automatic seat belts don't work/don't work well
5. Doors freezing shut
6. Tachometer problems
7. LH headlights not bright enough (Intrepid, Vision, Concorde)
8. Heater isn't working right (front wheel drive cars)
9. Caravan/Voyager door won't open/close
10. Oil seeps from the valve cover gaskets (2.2/2.5 liter engines)
11. Check Engine light went on
12. Computer code 13 (MAP sensor) - engine runs rough (see #15)
13. DING sound when hard cornering
14. Air blows through the wrong vents
15. Cold / freezing weather problems
16. Hard to shift into reverse
17. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up
19. Cylinder head or oil pan gasket leaks
20. Speedometer doesn't work
21. ABS jerky
22. Automatic transmission jerky in downshifts (see also #69)
22. Abrupt downshift from 3 to 2
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
24. Brake rotor warping
25. Oil leak - manual transmission (VERY common)
26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts
27. Rough idle - mod 1/96 - several causes
28. Idle speed increases / engine races sometimes / erratically
(see web site at http://www.mordor.com/valiant/).
29. Smoky exhaust
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running
31. Stalling / not starting - see also 39, 51
32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)
/ icing of carburetor and other parts
34. Gas gauge acts funny
35. Engine sometimes dies / car just quits (stalling).
(mod 1/96; several causes)
36. Control/status panel/console acting funny
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems
38. Temperature gauge problems
39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow
40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / coolant loss /
car runs hot / no heat / other coolant shenanigans --
Tom Johnson may help you to prevent $$ problems!
41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter
42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6 - MOD 1/96
43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)
44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration
45. Turbo engine cutout/power loss: See web site
at http://www.mordor.com/valiant/
46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake
47. Hesitation (see related topics above)
48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT
49. Turbo cuts out / warning light may go on
50. Jeep 4.0 stalling
51. Car just quits.
52. ABS note - Chrysler and GM minivans (see also #64)
53. Code 52 on 86-87 engines
54. Hesitation, 3.0 liter V-6
55. Service engine light goes on.
56. Cruise control problems
57. Battery charging problems
58. Sundance/Shadow (possibly others) hatchback leak
59. Car/minivan will not start; makes CLICK noise instead
60. Spongy / mushy brakes
61. Squeal when a/c is/goes on; adjusting belt tension
62. Air conditioner (a/c) ineffective OR cycles too often
63. Weatherstrip repairs
64. Preventing ABS problems
65. No heat - minivans, maybe others
66. Jeep 4.0 noise
67. LH clunk on acceleration
68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny
69. 4-speed auto trans problems - misc
70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph
71. Easier shifting - Talon/Laser/Eclipse
72. Gas gauge acting funny
73. Transmission clunk / rough downshift or shudder
74. Backfiring
75. PREVENTION - 3.0 liter engine
76. 1996 minivan gas empty warning is early / does not take enough gas
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts
78. CV boot replacement
79. Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco: seat belt light
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss
81. Rear defrost activated by brake lights
82. Poor mileage, cold starts
83. Mitsubishi 2.6 cold start / drivability
84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper activation)
86. Fluid leaks (inside the car)

Index for Classic Cars:

MOVED TO PART 3

Index of Funny Noises:
1. Noise on turns
2. Dakota creak
3. 2.5L engine knocks/ticks; poor cold idle
4. 4-cylinders: snapping noise when starting/stopping (see #18)
5. Daytona rattle
6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping
7. Whining or whistling noises from belt driven accessories
(most FWD vehicles from 89-94).
8. Rattle from back of car (hatchbacks)
9. Rattles/noises from engine compartment
10. Misc rattles
11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal)
12. Rear end noise - Neon
13. Squeal when ac is or goes on: see above, #61.
14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing
15. 1996 minivan (Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country) noises
(comprehensive list)
16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank
17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise (highway speeds)
18. Clicking/snapping noise on stop (see #4)
19. Clunking
20. Knocking/metallic clanking

================================================================
1. FUEL LEAKS:

There was a recall for fuel line replacements on some vehicles in 1988.
A rigid line was replaced with a flexible one between the metal line and
fuel pressure regulator. (Sherrie Settle).

All 2.2 turbo owners should check their fuel clamps for leaks on a
regular basis. This is VERY important. Tighten them if needed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Water leaks (Rampage, possibly other L bodies)

Gary Howell <gho...@mail.miworld.net> says: Under the windsheild at
each lower corner, holes rust through. The best fix is to remove the
windsheild and have the body work done properly. The cheap fix is to
remove the windsheild trim and fill the holes with RTV. The holes are
not always visable to the eye, sometimes the holes are under the glass
or like a micro screen.

If a speaker wire has been run through the door seal, water will
sometimes follow the wire past the seal, but the problem is most likely
the windshield rust.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. Intermittent Idle Problems: (see also #28, #30)

Problem: on 84 Laser, 88 Omni, and 87 Shadow (2.2 liter, turbo and
non-turbo), idle suddenly jumps from 800 rpm to 3000 rpm. Sometimes goes
away quickly, sometimes doesn't. Possible solutions: AIS motor, stuck
throttle plate (checked). Solution: turning off the defroster; check the
speed/distance sensor and connection (t...@po.cwru.edu (Tom)), freon
level in the a/c (james eldridge), and the wiring harness on the back
side of the engine (Jeffrey Wieland). Jeff found that the wiring harness
got hot enough to damage the wire insulation; he spearated and
re-insulated the wires, which fixed the problem.
**********
High idle, 2.2/2.5 TBI:

Most likely automatic idle speed system. Check for fault codes. Check
wiring harness near AIS motor for shorted wires or wires that seem stuck
together (separate and insulate from each other). Also check EGR
system, vacuum system, and timing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Automatic seat belt problems

In the early part of 1993, there was a recall for Shadow/Sundance
automatic shoulder belts; the fix is to lubricate the tracks once a year
or more with Passive Restraint Track Grease, part 4680370. If the recall
has not been done, Chrysler will replace inoperative belts (Wayne Toy).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Doors freezing shut

Jim Van Damme suggestd:
1. Open the door panel and undo the nuts that hold the door latch onto
the door. Slide the whole latch down (or was it up?) to allow the handle
to engage sooner.
2. Lubricate it well (de-ice with WD-40) when you've got the panel off.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Tach probs:

t...@po.cwru.edu said a lot of Laser/Daytonas had tachometers which
skip when you hit a bump. The problem was the chip which processes
the signal and clips into the top rear of the dash cluster unit.
He thought the problem was the contacts rather than the $45 chip.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. LH headlights:

The lens was upgraded in 1994, so 95 models should be brighter. Some
dealers replace the lenses for free on older models. You can order new
lenses or just keep trying dealers. The TSB is 08-38-94.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Heater problems:

() vand...@lonex.rl.af.mil had poor heat in his Lancer.
The temperature regulator door was not sealing well in HOT, letting cold
air bypass the heater core. He stuffed a 4-5mm by 12 cm piece of foam
in, closed the door on it, and unhooked the cable until Spring to keep
it in place.

If your radiator cap leaks or the hose to the CRS bottle leaks the
vacuum will be lost and it won't suck the juice back in. Blow on the
bottle to see.

Dennis Lippert notes: The temperature gauge will swing back and forth
until the entire system is warmed fully. This is because you keep
introducing "cold" coolant from the radiator into the engine, rapidly
cooling it. WHen the temp falls enough, the thermostat closes, and the
temp goes back up, repeating the cycle. This is due to a valve which
lets you get heat before the thermostat opens up. It keeps the warm
coolant in the engine *and heater* when the thermostat was closed.

Peter Galambos related: Fixed by flushing the system with oxalic(sp?)
acid (i.e. Prestone Super Flush). Now the heater works great and the
engine temperature changes much less. There was probably a restriction
even though the antifreeze looked fine; a lot of rust flowed out when
flushing.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Caravan/Voyager stuck doors:

Mike Stallcup couldn't get his minivan door to close, so he turned the
power locks on and off a few times. Fixed it.

Someone else found the problem to be a loose trim panel held to the back
of the door. The roller on the track at the top/inside of the door was
also out of alignment; the bolts had loosened and the door was not
closing tight. Check the tightness of the bolts.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Oil seepage from the valve cover gaskets:

Bob Meyer <robert...@ncsu.edu> says: The valve covers on all
emission-controlled cars are vented through the inlet hose from the air
cleaner to the valve cover and the PCV valve from the valve cover to the
throttle body/intake manifold. If you are having a problem with valve
cover oil leaks, then you should check whether these hoses, or the small
crankcase air filters in the air cleaner, are blocked first before you
reseal the valve cover.

Around 1987, Chrysler switched from using a gasket to using RTV,
In 1994, they switched to a 1 piece valve cover from a 3 piece cover,
according to a technical rep. The rep was not sure as to whether the new
cover could be retrofitted to the older engines.

Mike Manning informs us that recall #467, issued in 1990, covers the
valve cover gasket; he says that the gasket was replaced with blue goo
gasket material. Once this stuff has set up, the cover needs to be
re-tightened. We don't think the dealers usually do it correctly, since
Mike went thru 2 of them (I went through more). Mike finally replaced
his with a corl gasket, and it has been fine.

This is a known problem but reps deny it; the situation calls for
assertiveness. Keep checking your engine, especially around
the spark plug area, for seeping oil. Ask that your engine be cleaned
every time the dealer fixes the seepage. If your car is out of warranty,
try to have the seepage fixed anyway by insisting that it *is* a known
problem and that is why they have technical advisories on it.

Paul F. Schikora : Went to NAPA and got a gasket set and a bottle
of gasket goo (orange colored stuff). Took my time cleaning the
surfaces completely and applied the gasket & goo per instructions. No
more leak. (Did this over this past summer). However, I'm sorry I
didn't take the time to reseal the PCV connection cover. It's always
bled quite a bit of oil into the valve and air filter. (Note: this was
for 1987 model, which had a gasket).

Dietrich Schellenberg says: Clean all the surfaces so they are
completely free of oil(Loctite Clean & Cure Primer is a good cleaner)
put a bead of *high temperature* silicone around then place the
cover on. Put in all the bolts and tighten very lightly, You want about
1/8" thickness of silicone left between the cover and head. Let dry
overnight (24 Hrs) and then tighten the bolts to spec [usually very
lightly!]. They may be hard to remove but will not leak.

JoDee McKenney says: I'd use the gaskets and the high temp silicone on
each of the metal surfaces. This allows a way to seal the parts together
and still get them apart later.

George Young notes: Perhaps the dealer's shop does not know
about the "apply, connect loosely, _WAIT_ and then tighten" method?

Daniel Stern warns: DO NOT DO THIS on an engine with
mechanical lifters (i.e G/RG engines and early V8s) because there will
be hell to pay when it comes time to adjust the tappet clearance.

Duane P Mantick provides TSB 09-17-89 which advises replacing the
original cover with one using RTV. The "cylinder head cover kit" is PN
5241066 and contains:
1 cylinder head cover PN 4343496
5 screw with washer PN 6100276
2 seal, Cyl. head cvr. end PN 5214479
4 stud with washer PN 6500435
RTV sealer is not included in the kit (PN 4318025).

This TSB applies to "1989-1990 all domestic vehicles with 2.2L or 2.5L
EFI engines"

------------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Check Engine light goes on:

1. This may be due to the need for a periodic service.
2. It may be the oxygen sensor (Steve Sheldon <she...@iastate.edu>)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Engine runs rough - computer shows code 13

From: jiz...@cc.umanitoba.ca (Jizhong Wang) - 84 Dodge 600 ES
A couple of months ago the car stalled ocasionally with the "Power Loss"
light on. My computer said it was MAP sensor vacuum circuit (code 13). I
got a hand air vacuum pump and checked MAP sensor and hoses. I took the
car to a dealer and told my computer was faulty - didn't replace it.
Later I found a 6-way connector was loose. It was AIS motor and TPS
sensor connector, nothing to do with MAP sensor. I suggest you check the
connections and vacuum leaks before you replace MAP sensor. BTW, my MAP
sensor is accessable under dash of passenger side, inside the car. It is
two inchs above ECM.

(t...@po.cwru.edu <Thomas Z. Zeeb> adds: on Caravan/Voyager, it is under
the hood and screwed into the firewall, just off center to the left,
above and behind the belts. It has one vacuum hose and one three-node
electrical connector attached to it. They range from $70 -$100 US at
the dealer. If the MAP is shot, the engine will shut down after
starting. Try disconnecting the MAP, the engine will then run (rough)
in some models.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
13. DING sound when hard cornering

Paul Schikora suggested this might be the low gas alert being sounded
due to the gas sloshing around in the tank.

Pete Morrissette said he also had a dinging sound, but not the same
kind: his Voyager's sliding door pinged/dinged on bumps and turns. Paul
Schikora said the bolt connecting the door to the arm (which slides in
the track at the front top of the door) sometimes loosened. To check,
grab the door there and try to push/pull it; if it moves in and out, the
bolt must be tightened.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Air blows through the wrong vents

Problem: under acceleration, air comes through the defroster vents
instead of the vents it's supposed to come through. Reason: a valve that
sits in a vacuum line went bad. That valve leads to a vacuum reserve
tank, and the tank either wasn't forming a vacuum or the vacuum in the
tank couldn't get out. (The reserve tank may also have gone bad, or
there may be a leak in the system). (Lloyd R. Parker)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

15. Cold weather problems

Glen Larche said a MAP relocation kit is available to prevent problems
in freezing temps (rough cold idle, stalling):
Kit for turbo vehicles- 4419402
Kit for EFI vehicles- 4419401
------------------------------------------------------------------------
16. Hard to shift into reverse (manual transmissions)

fran...@munch.lkg.dec.com sez this problem is common to cars which have
synchronized forward gears, but nonsynchronized reverse gears. The trick
is to shift into a forward gear before going into reverse. Or wait a few
moments before shifting into reverse, after hitting the clutch, so the
engine shaft stops spinning.
- valiant notes that the CC five-speed was modified in 1993
to make getting into reverse easier.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
17. 2.5 liter knock/idle

Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting 3-5 minutes --
most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or tappet
noise. Loudest in colder weather. Usually disappears when the car is
warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.
-- TSB 09-06-93 provides for computer replacement.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
18. WIndshield washer nozzle freeze-up

There is a check valve to correct washer nozzle freeze ups (which
dealers may
not acknowledge). (Jim Hoare) - you could also add alcohol to the
antifreeze in very cold weather.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Cylinder head or oil pan gasket leaks

Lemon-Aid Used Car Guide: "1989-93 models ... cylinder head and oil pan
gaskets are prone to leaking." ... "1990-91 - Owners can get a new
cylinder head gasket cover on models with 2.2L and 2.5L engines." (Jim
Hoare)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Speedometer doesn't work

There is a TSB out on this problem. It happens most frequently with the
Shadow/Sundance, it seems. Take it to your dealer, they should fix it
for free. The TSB was issued in 1994. The problem is the
speed sensor connector; a new one must be spliced in.

Details from Neil Emiro on replacing the speed sensor yourself follow.
They probably apply to all K-based (and extended K-based) cars:

To get it out, you will need a 10mm wrench, a flat blade screwdriver,
and if your car has cruise, a 19mm wrench. To get at it, jack the car
up. If you look underneath at the oil pan plug, and look back on the
car, to where the axle goes into the tranny, you will see it. It's
mounted in the top of that extension housing. If your unit is round,
just unplug it and remove the cable if there is one, and pry it up,
putting the screwdriver between the black body of the sensor, and the
natural color base. If your unit is kind of short and diamond shaped,
disconnect the wiring and cable, and there's a 10mm bolt on the far side
that you'll probably be able to feel better than see.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
21. ABS jerky

Dealer reprogramming the PCM fixes the brakes. (Steve Chu)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
22. Transmission jerky / downshifts abruptly

"Tranny downshift from 3 to 2 in an extremely abrupt motion...if the van
slows to less than 10 mph and gas is applied, tranny jerks and makes a
metal pinging noise."
FIX: Replacement and reprogramming of the controller; and fluid change.
There is a TSB. Steve Chu seays: "I drove the van this morning and I
must say
the jerk went away! I can't even feel any downshifting at all!"
------------------------------------------------------------------------
23. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There was a TSB on this, but the
dealer said "you have to complain LOUDLY. The service guy called it the
'post shift bang' "
------------------------------------------------------------------------
24. Brake rotor warping - PREVENTION

The dealers have received a bulletin saying that if cars come in with
less than 30,000 miles with worn out brake pads and rotors in need of
turning they are to do it under warranty. (Mary Bucy)

The dealer told me this is a known problem (LH) and replaced them
with heaver duty rotors. There is two TSB's from JUNE 94 that
deal with front brake rotors. (David Pothier)

If lug nuts are over-tightened, it places too much stress on the rotors
resulting in warpage soon thereafter. I always go over each lug with a
torque wrench set at 90 ft lbs. (Ted Ruscha)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
25. Oil leak from manual transmission

Applies to all cars and minivans with the manual trans A-523, A-543, and
A-568 (most of them). The TSB (21-24-93) says that "vehicles that are in
the dealership for any other reason should also be inspected for this
leak condition." What is replaced is a
remote vent assembly in place of the existing lock pin, and a new
linkage adjusting procedure for future service. It should take about 20
minutes. Most dealers will say "no problem found" unless you stick the
service advisor's finger into the oil leak.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
26. Harsh 2-1 downshifts

TSB 21-16-93 covers "harsh 2-1 downshift" on the 41TE transaxle, the
four-speed auto in most CC cars from 1989-1992. The change is replacing
the transmission control module. NOTE that this is only for cars with
the 3.3, 3.8, or 3.0 liter engine.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
27. Rough idle - several cases

Switched from Getty and Citgo gas to Mobil, Amoco, and Gulf.
Made a tremendous difference.

EGR valve may be stuck open or rusted off.

Engine idled erratically when warm, sometimes lost power after first
response when accelerator pressed about 1/3-1/4 down. Dealer first
adjusted venting at gas tank, seemed to help the idle. Then cleaned and
sealed the battery connector, solving the problem; was probably bad
battery connection causing system voltage fluctuation, which caused
changes in the controls. (Mustafa Soysal) (edited)

My car died slowing down...I disconnected my EGR backpressure transducer
from the vacuum lead. Now my car is a little bit more stable at idle,
better gas mileage, most likely can't pass emisions. (Jeffrey Paul
Chojnacki) - note: others warned against disconnecting EGR; there may
have been a leak in the EGR system.

My 2.5 liter has had a rough warm idle for about a year (it is 2 years
old). Turns out the timing was off by 2 degrees, retarded. Within spec
(+/- 2 degrees) but enough to roughen the idle. (Dave)

My 1986 Le Baron engine's CTS's connections had
corrosion on them (a scan tool showed that it took a long time to reach
180F and that it NEVER went above 180F during highway driving); I opted
to replace the CTS and connector. Weird cold start problems
went away and fuel efficiency improved. No fault codes were ever set.
If you have hot restart problems which disappear after 10 seconds
of engine running, use tuner cleaner on the throttle body temperature
sensor's connector and see if the situation improves. (Bohdan Bodnar)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
28. Idle speed increases/engine races:

See LONG STORY at bottom of this FAQ.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
29. Smoky exhaust

From: m...@metronet.com (Mo Brooks)
Smoke Color / Reason
Black = Too much fuel (probably bad sensor or dirty air cleaner)
Blue = Oil
White = Water

Black smoke on acceleration in early 2.2l engines may come from the fuel
pressure regulator vacuum hose at the elbow; may be a bad injector; or
may be duel to high fuel pressure. You may want to check for
restrictions in the fuel return line.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
30. Power loss, stalling, and/or rough running

I have an 87 Sundance 2.2 which has 130k miles and runs great. It
had power loss, stalling, rough running; replaced the $20 MAP sensor
(passenger side fender well) and fixed it. First time it went bad, did
not show up on dealer computer. (Phil McClay)

Tach danced around, engine sometimes stalled. Solution: the computer
(SMEC)'s grounding wire was loose, causing the computer to go nuts. The
wire leads from the computer to a ring connector bolted onto the engine
block at the air filter housing. Clean the corrosion off of all parts.
(dsch...@thymaster.interaccess.com (David Schmitt))

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
31. Stalling / not starting

From: devo@gonix (Aaron): My LeBaron GTS turbo
would drive okay, then just DIE for no reason at all. The tachometer
would drop then pop back up, then it would run for a few seconds and
die. Then I could not get it started for a day or so. Then it started,
drove for about 10 minutes, died. It was a bad firing coil.

Tony Donnelly said that his 1986 Laser would run fine when it was cold
and hot, but would stop in the middle (say, after five minutes). The
problem turned out to be the engine speed sensor in the distributor cap,
which sent engine RPM to the computer. There were no codes.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
32. Water leak in Shadow/Sundance hatch

Tim Drake said his 1987 Sundance trunk leaked. To fix it he took the
lights cover off and treated the gaskets and drilled small holes in the
bottom of the light covers, so the water could leak out the bottom.
It's been dry since. We should hit 100K next weekend.

From: wgol...@draper.com (Wade M. Goldman) fixed the water in his trunk
and right tail light assembly (which caused on tail light to be dimmer
than the other). After replacing the light socket he corrected a gap
between the light assembly moulding and the car with RTV silicone.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
33. Power drops dramatically (engines with carb - esp 2.6)

In cold weather, some vehicles with the 2.6 liter 4-cylinder engine may
have severe power loss (e.g. after running about 20 minutes between 60
and 65 mph). If one steps on the gas, black smoke may come out of the
tailpipe. The solution (from Dave Witte): A de-icing kit to heat the
intake air enough to prevent freezing. SOME engines had this kit at the
factory. The kit is not expensive.
---
My manual shows that the 2.6 had a carb air heater. The tube that comes
up from the exhaust manifold, will be on the back side of the engine,
and hard to reach. When the engine is cold, make sure that the vacuum
actuator in the air horn leading to the air cleaner housing is working.
In cold weather, with the engine cold, it should redirect all of the air
flow through the stove on the exhaust manifold. (Jeff Wieland)
---
The problem was freezing of the carb. and the answer was to moved the
hose that feeds outside air to the air filter compartment and position
it somehwere to the rear of the engine. This prevents the outside cold
air from making its way over to the carb.(Ken)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
34. Gas gauge acts funny

Maurice H. Rich: bouncing gas gauge (1988 Wrangler).
I had a similar problem with my '76 VK Valiant wagon. The fuel gauge
pickup is a wire wound resistor with a little arm that moves
across it, and this arm is attached to the float. What happens over time
is that the wire wears very thin and eventually breaks. My gauge would
be all right until the float reached the half way point, then it would
bounce all over the place until the level fell way below half. This is
because the voltage (or other signal) coming from the pickup, simply
disappeared momentarily, and the gauge followed. I suggest you get one
from the wreckers, and if it's in good condition, it should be a simple
matter to fit it. My gauge pickup (not an American truck, by the way),


is held in place by

a circular collar, which has to be turned about 90 degrees to loosen it,
and then the assembly comes out of the tank. Just remove the wire/s
connected to it, and fit the new one, which is a reversal of removal.

I've just encountered the problem you describe in a 1992 Plymouth
Voyager. I traced the problem to the sending unit. Chrysler
uses a printed circuit rheostat which can short out, indicating a
partial tank when the tank may actually be full. It's a pretty simple
fix, and the part really isn't all that expensive. I don't think it's a
bad float, on account of the tank would read empty
in all situations. (Robert Sherman)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
35. Engine sometimes dies.

Defective Hall-Effect pickup. (about $40) (Michael M. Knox)

(Also check the automatic cutoff solenoid) (about $12)

ste...@sasknet.sk.ca (Bryan Steiner) solved stalling on his 88 Voyager
after his dealer failed: "The wiring harness runs over the exhaust pipe
connecting the front cylinders to the rear exhaust system. My harness
had fallen down and was touching the hot exhaust pipe and burnt through
one of the wires (I think it was one of the injector wires) and when it
shorted on the pipe, the engine would die. I took a small piece of
string that tied up the harness to the air intake hose. Examine the
entire wiring harness for damage and check all the connectors."

With regard to a 1989 Spirit, 93,000 miles: car stalls now and then, but
runs fine if the MAP sensor is unplugged; MAP sensor has already been
replaced. Bohdan Bodnar writes:
). Hook a scan tool to the computer and set it to capture snapshots
of the data the computer sees.
2). When the problem occurs, the driver (or whoever is operating the
tool) informs the scan tool of this. The tool will now mark the
captured data frame as the "trouble frame."
3). Unload the data from the scan tool--the frames before the "trouble
frame" show what the computer saw before the problem occurred, the
trouble frame shows what the computer saw when the trouble occurred,
and the subsequent frames show what the computer saw after the
trouble occurred. Disconnecting the MAP sensor merely
causes the computer to substitute a default value in its
memory for the MAP reading and to ignore this sensor's output.
You can achieve the same by disconnecting the vacuum hose to
the sensor with the engine off and then starting the engine. The
computer won't see a change in MAP while cranking, will set the MAP
circuit fault code, and then ignore the MAP sensor.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
36. Control/status panel acting funny

Test the Control Panel by holding down the trip and reset buttons,
turning ignition on, releasing the buttons, then pressing the US/Met
button. Read the speedo. Press the US/Met button and you should
see a six. Also check the codes in the engine computer --
(Matt Rowe)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
37. Magnum V-6 engine problems

Problem: 1992 Dakota 4x4 with Magnum V-6. Engine faltering badly
sometimes when cold, sometimes when hot. On cold starts, the engine
will sometimes act as though it's getting gas only at idle, won't
accelerate.
It will cough and sputter awhile, then "catch" and take off, running
fine from then on. Other times, it will "skip a beat or two" at speed,
under mild acceleration.

David Wright: Some Magnum engines came with "mis-phased" distributors,
causing intermittent missing.

Jerald Barker: Replace the back pressure transducer and EGR valve. The
Back Pressure Transducer lies next to the EGR valve just above the left
valve cover.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
38. Temperature gauge problems

Robert Rowe: With the ignition on, ground the wire coming of the
sending unit momentarily while the enging is warm. If the gauge moves to
the correct temp, the sender is at fault. Do not ground for a long
period of time as this can damage the gauge.

Peter Galambos: Temperature gauge would suddenly jump to 3/4 or almost
full scale for a few seconds and then drop back to center. I hooked a
voltmeter to the temperature sender input to the body computer and
actually saw nice linear voltage swings. It appears
that the gauge is designed to go super non-linear above a certain
temperature. I disconnected the radiator fan long enough to verify that
it was thermostat cycling causing the temperature swing and replaced the
thermostat and antifreeze.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
39. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow

Snow and rain spray blew in through the grille, through the opening
where the air conditioner lines go. That moisture ended up directly on
the distributor and ignition wires. I put some pink fiberglass house
insulation in the gap around the AC lines, just jammed it in, and have
not had that problem since then.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
40. Head gasket seems to need replacement / poor temp regulation

The clamp on the hose to the overflow bottle wasn't tight enough; it had
loosened during recent pressure-checking of the cooling system. --
Louise Penberthy

Ross Gunn heard air (exhaust) bubbling back through the coolant overflow
bottle and had to replace the head gasket was the solution. The dealer
estimated $500; Ross did it himself for under $100.

I managed to trace a slow coolant leak to the point near the firewall
where rubber coolant hoses are clamped to the metal ends of the heater
core tubes. Tightening the clamps a few turns ended the problem. I
probably never would've discovered the culprit had I not noticed that
a nearby cable had an odd green-ish tint. -- Roger Fradenburgh

The 2.2/2.5 liter cooling systems *MUST* be purged of air before
operation; otherwise, coolant flow blockage will result (i.e., hot,
possibly REALLY hot, engine). Partial purging will
cause the engine to run hotter than normal; the temperature
will gradually drop to normal as the system purges itself over
several days/weeks. These engines' cooling systems can be purged
easily by parking the car on an incline (front much higher than
rear) and cycling the engine on/off until the thermostat opens and the
air is expelled into the radiator. The proper way is to use the bleed
screw in the thermostat's housing...on some engines (like my 2.5) this
screw is frozen in place because of lack of use; hence, the heat
soaking of the thermostat's housing. -- Bohdan Bodnar (note:
letting it "purge itself" may lead to negative consequences).

Sometimes you can fry your brand new thermostat if you don't
burp it properly. I would always just crank the heat,
leave the radiator cap off, and start the car to purge the
cooling system. -- Terry L. Howe

We just went through this with my neighbors 3.0L Voyager. He complained
of white smoke in the exhaust, we found oil in the water and vice versa.
The dealer told him $1,000 to replace head gasket; we spent under $300.
We also replaced the timing belt, water pump, plugs & wires, etc while
we were there--the parts weren't expensive. We also replaced the
speedo cable as the best way to get at it was when the heads were off.
The new gaskets solved his problem, and he has more power.
-- ssmye...@aol.com
***
If the cooling system is low on water, the highest parts of the engine
tend to overheat, causing the head to warp and the head gasket to blow
out through the gaps left by the warping. Plymouth Reliants have
temperature gauges and show a high reading within a few minutes of
starting the engine IF it is low on coolant.

If the heater/defroster fan doesn't blow toasty warm when the engine is
hot, you are probably low on coolant. or have to bleed the system more.
It helps to park the car on a grade (front end high), turn the heater
temperature control up all the way, and idle the engine with the
radiator cap off. Then, fill the cooling system. [Use distilled water
- about fiftey cents a gallon from the supermarket] (Tom Johnson)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
41. Power drop, black smoke, 2.6 liter

>After running for about 20 minutes the power drops out to the point
>where I have to pull over. If I am in "Park or Neutral" and step on the
>gas pedal, black smoke comes from the tail pipe.

With 2.6L engined minivans ... the airflow goes right
over the carburetor ... freezing it solid. Seconfd you stop, engine
heat thaws it out (which is why you can stop, restart, and it seems a
lot better). I put a metal shield in front of the carburetor
to deflect wind around it and it worked. -- Jonathan N. Deitch
------------------------------------------------------------------------
42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6

Jim Thatcher: the smoking from his 3.0 liter engine was coming
from the PCV housing. A redesigned valve cover handles the oil
properly. Details from Keith Vicker (I think): inside the front valve
cover, the PCV housing does not always drain oil properly. Drilling
holes in this MAY cure the problem - we have no experience with that.

Another reason:

In the older 3.0 heads the exhaust valve guides sink into the head. The
usual repair is to remove both cylinder heads, knock the guides back to
their normal position, and have snap rings installed onto the guides so
that they don't sink again. (Eric Eleazar, Dick Greenfield Dodge)

Check the oil pressure sending unit. You'll see it if you lie down and
look around the starter/oil filter area. A lot of 'em start leaking at
about 75K or so. It'll cost you around $20 to replace. Put a drip pan
under it. Then, gently back the old one out (threaded), and screw the
new one in; don't over-torque it. (Stan A. Bidlack)

Keith Vickers said: ...
Pat Goss (the guy from MotorWeek) said that in his shop only about 1 in
250 needed the heads pulled, but the dealers want to make $$$$. The
seals can be replaced without pulling the heads.

DJ Allen said: My '88 3.0L was smoking like a volcano. The valve guides
were all in place. I replaced the valve guide seals while I was in there
and there hasn't been one puff of smoke since. I used Keith Vickers'
procedure. I found an 'on engine' valve spring compressor at my local
parts store for $25 and it worked, but I struggled with it because of
tight clearance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
43. TBI engine hesitation (2.2/2.5)

2.5 liter, TBI: Intermittent engine hesitation under high speed driving
ONLY or under moderately high speed and heavy acceleration. The problem
NEVER occurs during moderate driving or heavy acceleration at low to
moderate speeds.

The brass pin you see from the top of the injector controls pintle
throw. It seems they didn't make it a tight enough fit. Eventually the
pin begins to back out and the ECM keeps shortening the injector pulse
to compensate for the change in mixture. The process can take several
months before it produces symptoms. After continued driving, the pin
backs out to a point that the ECM can no longer compensate for and you
get driveability problems. (do...@ix.netcom.com)

First check fuel pressure, its around 14.5 psi engine off (using DRB in
actuator test) I have also seen the distributor pick-up unit on these
cut out intermittently. When the computer loses the signal from the
distributor, it shuts fuel/spark off. Also in the distributor itself
there is a HALL-effect plate which tends to get loose. This causes
erratic signals too. One TSB involves re-locating the MAP sensor from
the logic module(right kick panel) to the right strut tower. Water
would sometimes condense in the MAP sensor vacuum line and contaminate
the sensor. EGR failures are also common. They sometimes get stuck
open and cause hesitation problems. Try disconnecting the vacuum hose
from the EGR valve. The car will probably ping on acceleration, but
hesitation should cease. The valve is located on the driver's side end
of the exhaust manifold. You may have to remove the air cleaner
housing to see it. Faulty TPS sensor can cause this type of problem.
It may have a "dead spot" (Eric Eleazar)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
44. Power loss/jerky on acceleration

Turned out to be the fuel filter (86 Aries 5-speed, 2.2).(Dave) (89
Aries, 2.5, after 1/2 hour car jerks, fine on short drives): I fought a
similar problem for 18 months ... it would falter, hesitate, and do
anything but pull. The dealers (all 13 I went to) replaced the map
sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, turbo
boost solenoid, egr valve, pcv valve, and just about every other
gadget...I found a dealer who knew something, and they fixed the problem
in under an hour. The plug wires had been installed incorrectly, and
were not providing a secure connection to the spark plugs. The engine
computer tried to correct for it, but couldn't...Find a dealer who
actually has a brain cell or two and doesn't just plug in the magic
brain ... and will actually TEST the car. (jno...@usa.net)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
46. Oil in air filter area or in air intake

There is a curtain in the valve cover which prevents most oil from being
blown out the breather. Any oil in mist form should stay in mist and be
captured by the air filter. I had a problem where someone replaced my
leaking valve cover gasket and *forgot* to reinstall the curtain. I was
blowing about a quart every 500 miles. The worst part was that it
*looked* like my rings were blown. You would step on it on the freeway,
oil would pump out the breather, go down the air heater hose and burn on
the exhaust manifold producing oil smoke. (Thomas Lee Grice)

This is often just from a stuck PCV valve. If it is, chances are it's
leaking down to the air filter (and the air intake pipe) from a black
hose which comes up to the air horn (2.2/2.5 engines).

In the 2.5 (probably 2.2 as well) engine, oil can get sucked into the
PCV system unless a baffle plate is installed. He did this and it
worked.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
47. Hesitation (also covered elsewhere)

Problem: 2.5 engine hesitates/sputters/lurches for a second now and
then under normal driving conditions (highway, cruising, foot steady on
gas). Reason: plug wires were going bad. (Paul F. Schikora )

Problem: hesitation/lurching. Solution: fouled plugs. Oil fouled plugs
may indicate serious problems or just bad PCV valve.

Problem: 3.0 V-6 bogging on acceleration. Solution: clean the throttle
body if it has gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the throttle
plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a good
carburetor spray solvent.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
48. 3.9 liter (pre-1993) common problem - PREVENT IT

My 1992 Dakota 3.9L needed a new timing chain and gears
at 49,000 miles. This was originally diagnosed as "mis-phased"
distributer, and "fixed" to some degree. The symptoms returned
and eventually the dealer replaced the timing chain and gear set.
...
According to one of the service managers, the 1992 Magnums had a
"single roller" roller chain. The 93+ engines have the more typical
double roller. This may be a common problem for the pre-93s.

The misfiring had been happening sometimes on upshifts, but worsened as
performance sagged. The misfiring occurs when the rotor gets enough out
of phase that the spark gets fed to the wrong cylinder. The system on
this engine gets the crankshaft position information from the flywheel,
so ignition timing is not changed by this problem, valve timing *is*,
and distributer rotor "phase" is. This makes the problem insidious.

Get it fixed SOON.
Perhaps someone in this group can find a TSB that references this topic.
My dealer alluded to info from Chrysler on this problem. (Ron Luse)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
49. Turbo cuts out/power limited/power loss light

Under hard acceleration, the engine would cut out, rock like hell and
the check engine light would come on (until I released the pedal). (2.2
turbo) It turned out to be a disconnected vacuum hose to the wastegate
assembly. (Ralph J. Zottola)

Check the vacuum hose to the wastegate. If the wastegate is not
opening, the turbo will overboost, the the computer will cut the fuel.
As the RPM decreases, the boost lowers and the fuel comes back on. (Mac
Alan Crossett)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
50. Jeep 4.0 EFI engine stalls at a stop (Jeep 4.0 stalling).

The problem is the flywheel sensor. It is located by following the
wires from the along the firewall and along the bellhousing. These
sensors get worn out from debris and it also might be just the
wires going to it. I had the same problem and took it to a dealer
and they couldn't figure it out either. (Ken Talley)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
51. Car just quits.

Could be battery misconnection, or the shutoff solenoid (a device
designed to make sure the engine does not diesel or start unexpectedly).
Also check 2.2 and 2.5 for distributor pickup - may intermittently fail
without showing fault codes.

ram...@together.net (Wayne Racine) noted that, when a Neon loses
ignition while driving, a wiring harness could be routed too closely to
the EGR valve; there is a recall out for a small number of these. This
can affect 22 circuits and may not be visible even after peeling back
the convolute. Check for wires melted together and brittle wires.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
52. ABS note

See http://www.mordor.com/valiant/ABS.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
53. Code 52 on 86-87 2.2 engines

Check oxygen sensor, then remove the injector wiring cap and check the
color of the injector top cap; it it's black, the injector must be
replaced.
--------------------------------------------
54. 3.0 V-6 hesitation or bogging on acceleration

Check throttle body for gumming or varnish. You may have to clean the
throttle plate edges with Scotch Bright pads and clean the bore using a
good carburetor spray solvent.
--------------------------------------------
55. Service engine light goes on.

Service the engine. The light can be shut off with a special tool. Or
remove the bulb.
--------------------------------------------
56. Cruise control problems

Many older cars used both a speed sensor and a speedo cable, so the
speed sensor could go with affecting the speedometer. Fault codes might
not appear if the speed sensor is giving an incorrect signal.
--------------------------------------------
57. Battery charging problems

Check the battery cables, then check the alternator with a test light
and/or a voltmeter or an alternator/charging system analyzer. There are
usually four connections on a Chrysler alternator, one large terminal
(power out), one ground, and two field control wires. To check the
field control wires, test both for voltage with the engine running. One
should show battery voltage, the other a reduced voltage. If both show
battery voltage, the problem could be in the computer (not providing a
ground for the second field circuit). If one has battery voltage and
the other shows a much reduced voltage, the computer probably is trying
to "full field" the alternator and therefore the alternator is probably
the problem. Check output voltage. If output voltage is extremely high
(20 volts or more) check the circuit from the output terminal to the
battery for an open. If the voltage is battery volts but not a
charging voltage and the fields seem correct, suspect the alternator.
--------------------------------------------
58. Hatchback water leaks

From: laz...@base.bellcore.com (25312-lazaro)

Water enters the trunk by running down the side of the hatch
opening and when it reaches the tail lights, it flows into them. From
there, it pours into the trunk through the holes that the tail light
bulbs fit through.

From inside the trunk, remove the tail light bulb cover panel. Now
unfasten a few of the tail light bulbs and let them hang into the trunk.
With a long 1/4 inch drill bit (or similar size), drill a few holes in
the bottom of the tail light lens by sticking the bit through the holes
the the bulbs occupied. This allows the water that enters the tail
lights to drain out these holes and onto the ground instead of
accumulating in the tail lights and pouring into the trunk through the
bulb holes. I drilled about 3 or four 1/4 inch holes per each bulb
location. Did the trick. The trunk has been bone dry ever since.I
replaced the water-damaged carpet backing with 1/2 inch household carpet
backing that I got at a home improvement store and cut to size. It
improves the sound deadening, too. The cardboard floor (spare tire
cover) was water damaged too, so I got a new one for ~$25 at the dealer.
Make sure you air dry the trunk real well. I had so much water that I
had to pull the drain plug at the bottom of the spare tire well to let
it out.

I know of Ford Probes suffering this same problem (with similar
solution) due to the same hatchback & tail light configuration.
--------------------------------------------
59. Car / minivan will not start, CLICK!s instead

David J. Allen quoted vand...@rl.af.mil as saying that, when his 89
Caravan sometimes made a loud CLICK instead of starting, he saw that the
starter solenoid contacts were eroded down the thickness of a penny.
Vandamme soldered a real copper penny, filed to the shape of the missing
electrode, into the space.

David J. Allen wrote: [On my 88 Caravan,] I tore the starter down and
found that the contacts had worn down to the point of only providing
intermittant contact when engaged. A friend of mine brought me a couple
of strips of 1/8" copper from work which I cut and formed into new
contacts. They fit right in and I haven't had a problem yet (1 1/2
years).
--------------------------------------------
60. Spongy / mushy brakes

Mushy / spongy brakes, especially after brake servicing: Have the brake
fluid bled *properly* (most mechanics will not do it the correct way).
Jim Murphy says that Chrysler has a new procedure involving pumping the
brakes to pressurize the system, then opening the bleed screw to allow
the fluid and air to rush out. The details:

1: Pump pedal three or four times and hold it down before bleeder
screw is opened
2: Push pedal toward floor and hold it while bleeder screw is opened
3: Release the pedal after the bleeder screw is closed
4: Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times, at each bleeder screw
to pass a sufficient amount of fluid to expel all the trapped air from
anywhere in the system.
CAUTION: Just cracking the bleeder screw often restricts fluid flow,
and a slow weak fluid discharge will NOT get all the air out. Open
the screw at least one full turn.

--------------------------------------------
61. Squeal when a/c is on; adjusting belts

You can replace the idler pulley and belt to stop the squeal on the
minivans and some other vehicles. It may go away given a month. On some
vehicles you may need to adjust belt tension, but do not overtighten, or
you will need many expensive new parts!
NOTE
Adjusting Caravan belts: A tensioner is below the alternator. Put a 15mm
wrench on it and pull down (like you were tightening that bolt) and the
tensioner will rotate and take the tension off of the belt. Much easier
from underneath by removing the splash sheild. That is held by 4 10mm
screws. BUT BE CAREFUL!!! I own 2 CC products; an '88 Caravan 2.5L and
an '89 Sundance 2.5L. AC clutch went on both at about 80,000 mi, again
on both about 30,000 mi later, again, etc., etc. Found out that if the
belts are not tightened within specs., it wipes out the bearings SOON!!!
Only use a Burroughs belt tension gauge - about $50.00. NO MORE
PROBLEMS!! Hope this helps. By the way, the Sundance has over 200,000
mi, and the Caravan has 135,000 - no other serious problems, other than
CV boot replacements.
--------------------------------------------
62. Air conditioner ineffective OR cycles too often

Jim Zimmerman says: Short cycling [the a/c unit going on and off every
five or ten seconds) would allow it to cool, but not very well. An
independent shop immediately found that the first shop put on a
defective expansion valve in their attempt to repair it. Also, the low
pressure switch was bad. Mine would only act up intermittently. One day
it would cool just fine, the next day it would short cycle again.
--------------------------------------------
63. Weatherstrip repair

Marvin Stockman <msto...@oasys.dt.navy.mil> reports: I usually purchase
a caulking gun sized tube of black GE Silicon II sealant. Clean off the
damaged weatherstripping with alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Apply
an appropriate amount of sealer to damaged area. Cover area with plastic
kitchen wrap and with sealer covered form to an appropriate shape. Close
door. Car can be used and door can be opened and closed, but don't
remove plastic for 3 or 4 days. Don't use Saran wrap as most silicone
sealers need moisture to set and Saran is too good a vapor barrior. I
have done this for many years on many cars.
--------------------------------------------
64. Preventing ABS problems

Marv Miller cautions: Due to the fact that the ABS-10 uses an
accumulator, which acts as a "pressure reservoir", the fluid level in
the master cylinder varies. When the pump pressurizes the accumulator,
the fluid level in the master cylinder drops by about 1/2 inch - the
fluid went into the accumulator. This is why you are supposed to
completely depressurize the system by fifty or more depressions of the
pedal before checking the fluid. The accumulator will empty back into
the master cylinder reservoir. If you don't depressurize the system to
check the level, when the accumulator pressure drops (in deteriorating
systems this sometimes happens overnight), brake fluid will overflow
out of the master cylinder caps. The rubber "cap seals" cannot handle
this amount of fluid level change. The system needs to breathe.
Moisture gets in and is absorbed. Voila! Brake fluid contamination!
It's an imperfect world.
--------------------------------------------
65. No heat

Daniel Thomas writes:
[Dealers tried] everything from flushing out the cooling system,
replacing thermostat, replacing heater core, replacing blower motor,
etc. The REAL cause of the problem turned out to be the "automatic
ajjustment" cable on the hot air door. This is the door which allows
the incoming air to go across the heater core to provide heat into the
interior of the van. The damn thing had misadjusted itself a number of
times. The service manuals recommend a way to adjust the door to work
correctly but it isn't always successful even when it appears to be done
correctly. The door must be opened wider than the recommendation
implies then the heat lever is forced to the cold position. This
automaticially readjusts the cable connection to allow the door to open
wider which forces more (all) cold air across the heater core. The
secret is in the adjustment and almost going by the book. I have
personally been successful in fixing a number of vans that didn't give
out enough heat. The job is easy once you figure it out.
--------------------------------------------
66. Jeep 4.0 noise

>We recently bought a 95 Cherokee with the 4.0l 6cyl engine. After a
>couple thousand miles, it started making a knocking sound at idle. It
>sounds to me like one valve is out of adjustment.

Don Ferrario responded: This is typical of the 4.0L engine. Other than
the sound, which is admittedly alarming, it should not cause any other
problem. (note: In 1996, the 4.0 was redesigned to lower noise.)
--------------------------------------------
67. LH clunk

Michael Kell and others wrote about a clunking noise in LH models when
people coast and then accelerate again. Retorquing the front axle nuts
to 120 lb ft may fix it - but it may not (see below).

David Ta's dealer pointed him to TSB 02-04-95, which says to replace the
outer C/V joints. Mr. Ta was kind enough to inform the FAQ maintainer
in e-mail.
--------------------------------------------
68. Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze wipers acting funny

This may simply be the speed-sensitive wiper speed feature at work.

However, some, including Pierce Leonberger, found that the problem was
only solved when the dealer recalibrated the wiper module, which
controls the wiper timing. There may be a TSB out on this problem.

--------------------------------------------
69. Misc 4-speed automatic transmission problems

G. Smith writes: There were substantial revisions made to the trans
computer for the '95 model year that seem to have eliminated the
"bump-stop" condition. A TSB was released in the summer of '95 which
advised that the revised programming CAN BE retrofitted to '89 and newer
A604, 41TE, and 42LE (LH).
The TSB mentions the bump-stop, hard downshifts while coasting,
delayed engagement into drive and others. Should be covered by
warranty.

MMo...@ctc.Net says: The A-604 Trans can be updated to the 95 software
by either replacing the controller or flashing the EEPROM. The fluid
should be changed and then driven 10 miles and changed again. This is
covered if you are still under warranty. Don't ever put any additives in
an A-604!!! The additives coat the inside of the pistons and seals and
ruin the transmission.
--------------------------------------------
70. Shimmy under acceleration - 35-45 mph

ber...@net.bluemoon.net responds to a complaint of shimmy in a 96,000
mile 1986 Dodge Aries from 35-45 mph under accleration. He said that the
inner CV joint housing on the passenger side axle is worn. Probably
easiest repair is to replace passenger side axle with rebuilt unit.
There is a possiblity of it being in the drivers axle. But it is more
common in the passenger axle based on your complaint.

--------------------------------------------
71. Easier Shifting - Talon/Laser/Eclipse

From: Michael Butkus <butk...@lanmail.shu.edu>

For Talon/Laser/Eclipse 5 speed shifters '90-'95. I found from the
DSM.org site that synthetic gear oil (ASMoil, $7.50/pt from speed shop,
need 2 pts.) would fix things. No longer clunking or sticking gears. 4WD
needs different stuff in the rear due to the anti-slip differental.

Note: synthetic oil may help other cars, too.
--------------------------------------------
72. Gas gauge acting funny

rober...@aol.com: on a 1987 Caravan, the gas gauge kept creeping up to
full. The problem was a small circuit board, part 4375318. Dean Seaman
added the board is no longer used, but did dampen pointer movement. Some
gauges used a thick liquid instead.
--------------------------------------------
73. LH transmission clunk / rough downshift

bwet...@cadvision.com (Blair Wetmore) wrote that, on a 94 New Yorker,
the dealer reprogrammed the computer to cure the shudder that occurred
when the torque converter locked up under light throttle. The new lockup
speed is higher, and downshifts at low speeds are much better. This
applied to all LH models.

vi...@ix.netcom.com (Vincent Paul) notes that there is a similar TSB on
four-speed automatic transmission shudders. (He wrote in response to a
3.3 V6 Voyager which shuddered between 35-40 mph, stopping when the
driver took his foot off the gas). The trans shudders because it goes
into partial torque converter lockup. The solution is to update the
computer's programming.
--------------------------------------------
74. Backfiring

Ty Young reports that his 143,000 mile 1985 Caravan's backfiring (on
sudden decelaration) was cured by using 89 octane gas instead of 87.
(But was the timing OK?)
--------------------------------------------
75. 3.0 liter PREVENTION

Drop the oil pan after 100,000 miles and clean the screen on the oil
pick-up. Mine was choked down to an opening about the size of a dime.
The oil seems to get charred in the head closest to the firewall and
works its way down.
--------------------------------------------
76. 1996 minivan gas stuff

1996 minivan gas tanks were subject to warping. Chrysler is replacing
all affected gas tanks. There do not appear to be major delays in
obtaining parts. This does not affect safety but does reduce the gas you
can put into your tank. The gas warning indicator does tend to go off
early, as well, but this is an engineering decision.
--------------------------------------------
77. 3-speed automatic flare-up / slow 1-2 shifts

prof...@cybercomm.net (Sir Spamalot)
>w...@islandnet.com (Wayne Taylor) wrote:
>I have an '82 LeBaron 2.6 with an A470 Torqueflite transmission.
>With the colder than normal temps here locally lately we have
>begun to notice engine 'flare-up' or a slow shift from 1st to 2nd
during
>the first few hundred yards from parking (our house). I usually
>back off on the accelerator a bit to give the car a chance to shift;
otherwise
>the engine will just accelerate as if the transmission is slipping.

My '88 Caravan has been doing a similar thing for the last 2-3
winters. Just take it easy during warm-ups; it apparantly has no
effect (at least being easy on it doesn't) as I have over 150,000 mi
on the vehicle.
--------------------------------------------
78. CV boot replacement

From: rib...@io.org (Old Mcgroin) replaced the CV boots on his 88
Daytona: "There is one bolt on each wheel you have to take off first.
Remove each hub
then the axles will just slide out of the tranny (along with the fliud
so
catch it in a pail) On each CV joint there is one snap ring holding
everything
together. Once inside the CV there are a few ball bearings and a cage,
it all
fits together very straightforward. This was my first time with no
problems."
--------------------------------------------
79. Premier/Monaco seat belt light

mcha...@erols.com said: The chime module's contacts (under the dash
against the fire-wall near the parking brake) may fail to make good
contact. Removing the module and wiping the male contacts with a wire
brush and replacing it has worked for me twice. The locking tab is
against the firewall and force must be used to pull the module from the
female connector.
--------------------------------------------
80. Power loss or gas mileage loss

Vaughn Smith's 2.5 was losing power and mileage. While replacing a burnt
rotor (one thing to look at), he took off the Hall effect sensor. He saw
that it read when each "vane" on the distributor shaft passed the pickup
point; the inner surface of the vane, though, was extremely dirty. He
replaced the rotor and cleaned the vane, and found that gas mileage and
power increased. He also found this problem on a 2.2 TBI and a 2.2
Turbo, with some improvement in each case.
--------------------------------------------
81. Rear defroster activated by brake lights

Rivas Patrick writes that his 88 Shadow's rear defroster went on when he
hit the brakes. The problem was that the wires
going to the hatch from the roof had broken their insulation
and were touching each other when the hatch was closed.
--------------------------------------------
82. Poor mileage, cold starts

George Lobay's 2.2 TBI had poor gas mileage, poor cold starts, and codes
17, 22, and 52. The cause was a bad connection in the circuit to the
coolant sensor, causing the computer to guess the engine temperature
(limp in mode, characterized by high idle). The cure: using electrical
contact cleaner at the coolant sensor connector, on the round 6-position
connector in behind the battery; and on
the big bulkhead connector on the driver's side. For each one, spray it
on, plug it in and out a few times to hopefully improve the connection.
Make sure you have a good ground at the sensor (black wire). Put it all
back together, start the engine. Check voltage at coolant sensor (leave
it connected, just skin a bit off the insulation of each wire and tap in
with your multimeter) it should be somewhere in the 3 Volt range. If
that doesn't do it the only connector left is the one on the computer.
Note: don't forget that if you clean the computer connector you must
re-grease it by Chrysler procedures.

--------------------------------------------
83/ Cold start/initial run problem - MMC 2.6

(Courtesy Marvin Stockman) The Mitsubishi 2.6's carburetor choke pulloff
tends to break; the only fix is a $700 replacement. I have made a
twisted loop (like a hangmans noose) of soft metal wire and place the
noose section around the stud that holds the air cleaner duct. I let the
twisted straight section hang down into the throat of the carburetor. I
try to get the wire as close to the wall of the carburetor as I can.
This has the effect of preventing the choke plate from closing
completely, and eliminates any cold running problem. It is important to
use thin wire ( I used soft aluminum wire) in order to keep the opening
small, otherwise the initial idle is very high.
Another solution would be to drill a small hole in the choke plate.
During very cold weather, I pump the accelerator 4 to 5 times and the
car starts right up.
--------------------------------------------
84. Odd behavior when starting (e.g. wiper runs)

With regard to funny electrical things (in this case, the rear window
washer or rear wiper coming on) when starting a vehicle, or the vehicle
acting like it has a low battery, Ken Bessler <kg...@southwind.net>
advises:

The problem is one of two things: your ignition timing (no - really!)
is just a hair too far advanced or you battery is getting old. When
ignition timing is too far advanced, the engine tries to fire before the
piston gets all the way up. The piston tries to go the wrong way,
fighting the starter and causing a big voltage drop across the whole
van. This messes up the logic circuits. Listen to the way your engine
cranks over before it fires. This sound should be fairly even and
smooth. If not, back your timing up a bit. If your engine turns over
smoothly, then your battery is suspect.
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
86. Fluid leaks (inside the car)

Bob Meyer <robert...@ncsu.edu> writes: If the fluid is antifreeze
(green, sweet smell, hot), you may have a heater core leak (or loose
hose connections).
If the fluid is water, most likely the AC condensation tube is blocked
(note: this refers to a Sundance/Shadow/Duster). When the AC runs on a
humid day, a puddle of water should form underneath this drain if it is
working correctly. Look on the firewall behind and below the power
steering pump - you should find a rubber tube. Make sure that nothing
is blocking the tip. If this doesn't help, you may have a bunch of
leaves and junk inside blocking it. Some times you can back flush it
with a garden hose or fish out the leaves with a wire.
If the condensation drain is open and working, and you still have water
on the floor, make sure the cowl drains are clear. The last thing would
be to check the gasket that seals the blower fan (under and behind the
glove box). If this is leaking, loosen the accessable lower screws,
force
a bit of strip caulk into the seal gap, and retighten.

--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------

*****************************FUNNY NOISES *********************

1. Herbert DaSilva <h...@swl.msd.ray.com> writes:

(Problem: Noise happens on left hand turns and some bumps. Was
originally chirping noise, but now more of a rumble. More frequent. Car:
1987 Shadow 2.2, five-speed, 110K miles.)

Isolate the problem with the following test:
1. - Select an off-ramp or empty parking lot where you can attain some
velocity while maintaining a left hand turn when the noise is evident.
2. - Clutch in or slip the tranny into neutral and pump the gas pedal to
rev the engine. If the noise does not change tone when the engine is
revved, the problem is in your driveline. If the noise changes tone
with the speed of the engine, the passenger side engine mount has
probably collapsed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. Dakota creak

my truck had a loud "creak" while driving. The problem: a cover plate
between the converter and the truck body, directly under the front
drivers seat, that flexes under use. The fix was easy-stuff something
between the plate and the body. [Robert Duggan]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
3. 2.5 liter knock/idle

Cold engine knock a few seconds after startup, lasting about 3-5 minutes
-- most noticable at 2,000 - 2,500 rpm. Sounds like valve lifter or
tappet noise. Noise loudest when weather colder. Usually disappears when
the car is warm.
OR
Cold idle rough util coolant reaches 50-60 degrees F.
-- TSB 09-06-93 provides for replacement of the computer.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4. Snapping noise on start/stop

Noise comes from the left side of the engine while starting from or
coming to a stop. More prevalent when engine comaprtment hot.
Diagnosis: With windows closed, trans in drive or first and parking
brake on, put a load onto the gas. Release the load and shift into
reverse. Listen for the noise as you apply a load in reverse. If you
can't hear it, drive at low speeds with several quick, but not hard,
acceleration/deceleration moves. Parts requried: left engine support.
Time: .6 hours (from TSB 09-02-93).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
5. Daytona rattle

Christopher Sennett Homer: Under the rear hatch are
two black plastic screw things with rubber bushings on the bottom,
at the rear corners on the hatch. When the hatch is closed
it rests on these bushings, now if one, or both, of them are too short
then the hatch pivots on the latch and rattles, so take some pliers
and unscrew the plasic bushings a little to extend them. that should
clear up that hatch rattle.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Metallic banging during 2-1 downshift when stopping

Jim Zimmerman had this in his Caravan. There was a TSB, but the dealer
said "you have to complain LOUDLY. The guy called it the 'post shift
bang' "
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Whining or whistling noises (most 89-94 FWD vehicles)

Jim Zimmerman said TSB 21-40-93, affecting most FWD vehicles from 1989
to 1994, covers this. This noise comes from the transmission of the
FWD cars and minivans, with automatic "transaxles built with 3.02 or
3.22 final drive gear ratios. 1994 model year vehicles must have a
transaxle code prior to 1826 for this bulletin to apply." This is a 7
hour job and replaces MANY parts.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
8. Rattle from back of car

The screws that hold the trim onto the hatchback tend to come loose and
fall off. They cost 22 cents, so get extras.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
9. Rattles from engine compartment

On a 2.2, the plastic hood covering the air cleaner lost a bolt, and
now has a huge rubber band holding it down to keep it from buzzing at
some RPMs. The air injection tube into the catalytic converter has a
filter which used to buzz against the firewall LOUDLY until I
relocated it.

These engines produce a lot of vibration, and there are a lot of hoses
and gismos nearly touching each other. Someone will have to poke her
head inside the engine compartment while an assistant revs up the
engine through the RPMs that it makes noise, and try to isolate the
noise producer. The safe way is to shut the engine off and see if you
can rattle anything with your hand. Also, look for any broken hose or
wire brackets. (Jim Van Damme)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
10. Misc rattles

On my Sundance (Shadow), *all* the plastic covers that go over the seat
belt mounts were squeaking or rattling. I sprayed them with white
lithium grease where they were attached and where the were scraping or
hitting other plastic parts. (Dave)

Also on my Sundance, I had several instrument panel noises. The mechanic
put foam on the back of the radio faceplate and other easily removable
bits of plastic, which helped somewhat. The center console rubbed
against the underside of the dash. (Dave)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
11. Squeak on acceleration (from gas pedal)

Get this -- there is a spring under the gas pedal. One squirt with white
lithium grease (well, a dozen squirts) took care of this annoying noise.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
12. Neon rear end noise

jb...@NMSU.Edu (Jody L. Baze) sez:
Look under the rear of the car - shouldn't need to jack it up, it's
accessible. The sway bar is attached to the frame and runs up to near
the wheel where it is attached to the shock assembly with a tie rod.
It was the tie rod attachments that were squeaking.
I applied a few drops of teflon lube (it's what I had on hand) to both
the top and bottom pivot points around the bushings and no more
squeak. Pretty simple...it's a 1-minute job once you know where to lube!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
14. Doors make grinding noise when opening/closing

robert...@ncsu.edu had the same sound when his Stratus was delivered.
He put white lithium grease on the aluminum check straps and cycled the
doors several times.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
15. 1996 minivan noises (comprehensive list)

Bob Jaworski says rattles in the back may be cured by getting the rear
shocks replaced - there is a recall or TSB on this. If your middle seat
is rattling: the hook that holds the seat in may be loose. Crinkling
sound from the steering wheel: Resolved by readjusting column housing
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
16. 1996 minivan sloshing gas tank

Chrysler now has a new bracket with spacers. Many people will need a new
gas tank to replace their warped tank. All under warranty.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
17. Grand Cherokee clunking noise

aw...@ecl.psu.edu (Alvin N. Wang) wrote that he had a random clunk/think
noise while at highway speeds. He moved the load bars on his roofrack as
far to the rear as possible and it cured it. The noise had sounded like
it was coming from under the floorboards! A TSB may have been issued on
this.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
18. Clicking or snapping in the front end

ntmy...@nyc.pipeline.com (Mark T. Hoops) wrote that a "clicking or
snapping noise in the front end just as braking to a full stop" could be
the left side engine support, especially in a 2.5 liter; but could also
be the strut plates, C/V joints, or loose steering rack bolts.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
19. Clunking

dja...@msmail3.hac.com had a clunk in his Caravan in the front driver's
side; the dealer didn't find it, but he did. It was the bolt that
tightens around the ball joint pin. He had done a cv joint boot job and
had not
tightened the bolt adequately. The ball joint pin would slip up and
down
with braking, bumps, whatever. He tightened it up and the problem
went away.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
20. Knocking/metallic clanking

From: gara...@gnn.com (gary cristadoro) writes: A constant
knocking/metallic clanking which increased with engine rpms and got
louder with engine speed on a Jeep turned out to be the vibration
dampener (harmonic balancer) bolted to the driveshaft. It drives via
belt all accessories. You can visually inspect the rubber insulator
between the yoke and counterbalance pulley; if a severe shift has taken
place (the two parts are misaligned and protrude), the fan belt is not
aligned with other pulleys.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

===========================================================
*********WHICH CARS ARE IN WHICH CATEGORY?**********
(this list is incomplete)

Modern: Neon, Stratus, Cirrus, Breeze, Ram x500, Intrepid, Concorde,
Vision, Avenger, Sebring (Neon has its own FAQ). Viper and Prowler are
too rare to make it here.

K-based: 600, Aries, Reliant, Duster, Sundance, Shadow, Spirit, Acclaim,
Daytona, Laser, Caravan, Voyager, Dakota, LeBaron, Lancer, Caravelle.

Omni-based: Omni, Horizon, Charger, Turismo, O24, TC3, Duster.

Classic: Valiant, Swinger, Dart, pre-1980 Duster, Demon, Aspen, Volare,
Fury, Ramcharger, Ram, Monaco, Gran Fury, Diplomat, pre-1980 Charger,
Cordoba, 300 (all letters), Superbird, Roadrunner, Satellite, Twister,
Challenger, DeSoto, Barracuda, 'Cuda, Trailduster, pre-1970 Lancer,
Polara, Belvedere, GTX, Charger Daytona, Newport, Magnum, Mirada, St.
Regis, Newport, Super Bee, Li'l Red Express Truck, Canadian Caravelle

Mitsubishi/Joint Venture: Colt, Arrow, Sapparo, Talon, Laser, Challenger

European: Plymouth Cricket, Talbot Horizon (not covered by FAQ)

Some cars overlap. Trucks, joint ventures, imports, and Jeeps generally
aren't handled in this FAQ, though their powertrains may be.

=======================================
QUICK CHECK OF THE OPTICAL DISTRIBUTOR

If the engine will not start, go to the 4-way connector. Hook up an
analog voltmeter to the gray wire with the black tracer and ground.
Crank the engine. The voltmeter should pulse between 5.0 volts and 0.0
volts. If the voltage cycles the problem is not in the distributor.

This is what you have just checked:
1) Battery power to the distributor
2) The distributor ground circuit
3) 5.0 Volt source from SMEC
4) correct operation of the photo diodes and LEDs

If the voltage did not cycle, is it 0.0 volts or 5.0 volts all the time?

If it is 0.0 volts, the following could be at fault:
1) the 5.0 volt feed from the SMEC could be open or
grounded. Check with an ohmmeter.
2) the solid state circuit in the distributor could be
grounding the wire all the time. Verify by unplugging the distributor
connector and if the volts go up to 5.0 volts (key on), you have a bad
pickup.

If the voltage stayed at 5.0 volts, the following could be at fault:

1) no battery voltage at the distributor on the orange wire. Check with
a voltmeter (key on)

2) No ground for the distributor on the Black wire with the light blue
tracer. Check with an Ohmmeter. (key off)

3) The solid state circuit in the distributor stays open all the time.
If you have 9.2-9.4 volts on the orange wire and continuity on the
blk/lb wire and the voltmeter did or does not cycle 5.0 -0.0 volts you
have a bad pickup.

Note: The sync pickup will never prevent an engine from starting. It
can be checked in the same manner as the reference pickup, except test
the remaining wire instead of the gray/black wire.

The distributor does have fault codes that the SMEC can store: code 11
for reference pickup and code 54 for the sync pickup. In most cases,
either fault code would require replacement of the pickup assembly,
however, using the "quick check procedure" discussed earlier will
confirm this. Do not replace the pickup solely on the basis of a fault
code!

Courtesy B.L. Bodnar


Dr. David A. Zatz

unread,
Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part2

Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1996/8/6
Version: 3.4

This section is generally revised every 120 days.
The last revision was August 8, 1996.

DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the

information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Some of the information is presented as opinion rather than fact.


The writers and the maintainer do not claim to be authorities.

information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is
given to the writers and maintainer; and that it is not published in


book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the

maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a FREE


copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for
formatting) without the express permission of the maintainer
(za...@ssnlink.net = David Zatz).

- - - - - - - - - - - -

If you did not obtain this FAQ from one of its
newsgroups or from the rtfm.mit.edu archives, it is probably
NOT a current edition. The latest copy may be obtained from
ftp rtfm.mit.edu
cd pub/usenet/rec.answers/autos/chrysler-faq/general
get part1 part2 part3 part4


- - - - - - - - - - - -

PART II

*************************CONTENTS*****************************
What should I do...
1. ... before I post?
2. ... if I have problems with Chrysler?
3. ... if I own this car? (list of models and what to look for)

Oil Filter Discussion

List of All Engines Since 1966
1. Guide to V-8s

List of All Body Styles Since 1966

***********************************************************************
BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS

1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.

2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the
dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix
it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.

3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the
relevant FAQ section in Part 2, please do so.

4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter
at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help
anyone by going overboard or over-generalizing. Every company
makes some lemons, and every company deals badly with some people.
Auto companies have poor customer service, in general. Chrysler's
dealers provide average service and their corporate department
is better than most in performance but poor in attitude and hard
to deal with.
***********************************************************************

HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP.

* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take "no"
for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often
helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; they are
generally over-sensitive and jaded; and they may be hard to deal with
and stubborn. They also often don't know what they're talking about, so
elaboration may help. If all else fails, thank the person, then
immediately call back and speak to someone else. Always take down their
name for your reference!

* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer
codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem. Using the
Alldata service may lead you to have new, lower standards for fair
treatment.

* Don't expect Chrysler to change something just because it's listed in
a TSB (technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems
which may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler
often fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on
it.

* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly,
nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both
parties less angry.

* Don't take "no" for an answer. Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a pay
phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer will
discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!

* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get
another dealer. Or try the newsgroup.

* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work,
etc., get another dealer.

* Look for five-star dealers, EVEN THOUGH five stars are not an
assurance of quality. Surveys are not a high art at Chrysler;
their form and process desperately need work.

* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at your zone
office (in your owner's manual). They will probably send down a factory
rep (or promise to do it and not follow through). Do not threaten them.
If they still don't fix the car, politely begin to negotiate.

* If that fails:

1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This
will get their attention and help negotiation. You can
usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court.
Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer
to negotiate *first.* Chrysler has a reputation for being easy!
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board.

* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one
will know the people at the zone office and will try to
talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their
first move, they are not the right lawyer.

* Your chances of getting cash are EXTREMELY slim. You will
probably get a credit (buy-back). You will usually not
get all of your money back. Chrysler tends to follow
state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use before the first
lemon-type complaint. This is normal and OK.

* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.

*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter
to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center, Box 302, Centerline, MI
48015. It may not help you but it might help someone else!
************************************************************************
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?

Note: you are strongly advised to also visit the Troubleshooting
section (part 4) and to buy the bound books of TSBs from Chrysler
(see the Resources section in Part 1). If a problem is noted, but no
solution, the solution is listed in the Troubleshooting section.

ENGINES

2.2/2.5 turbo:
-- check for fuel leaks and loose fuel line connections
-- head gasket failure (possibly due to heavy use)
Any 2.2 or 2.5 liter engine:
-- oil leaks from the valve cover gasket (over the spark plugs).
-- poor driveability when cold
-- poor idle quality
-- oil seeping into airbox or air hose
** These are all MINOR problems.
Any Mitsubishi engine
-- high oil consumption
-- replace the timing belts on time!
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- replace the crankcase inlet air filter regularly.
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment
-- make sure the oven and oven valve are working
Any engine without DIS (if you have a rotor, this applies to you) ---
Check your timing, it may have been set wrong at the factory.
Other problems may be caused by low quality rotor or different
brand rotor and distributor cap.

TRANSMISSIONS

4-speed automatic
-- 1989-94: watch for early failure
press Chrysler to pay for *all* repairs.
-- all: Change fluid regularly with recommended fluid.
-- DO NOT use non-recommended fluid or ANY additives.
-- KNOW the right fluid (owner's manual ONLY). Do NOT trust
mechanics.
-- Check for TSBs on hard shifting and have the computer replaced if
needed. If a dealer doesn't feel/hear it, find another. Persist
until they follow the TSB. The new computer save wear and tear
on the transmission for various reasons.
5-speed manual transmission, pre-1994 (non-MMC):
-- Seepage from the transaxle is common. CC may fix it for free
even if out of warranty. Then again, they may not.

BRAKES

All cars (all companies) -- watch for early wear on brake pads due to
sticking calipers.

ABS
-- 1990-93 Bendix systems (all brands) may have early problems.
On Chrysler products, the trouble-prone ABS-10 was on minivans,
New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Imperial, Eagle Premier, Dodge
Dynasty, and Dodge Monaco.
*** There has been a RECALL on these systems and the warranty
on them has been extended to 100,000 miles, according to reports.
-- You may be able to prevent problems with ABS systems by
changing the brake fluid every 2-4 years.

CARS

Shadow-Sundance-Duster:
-- water leaks in the rear hatch
-- loose screws attaching plastic trim to hatch -> rattling
-- engine mount failure leading to creaking/cracking noise
-- creaking/rattling from the center console
-- speedometer temporary failure due to connection problems
at the speed sensor

Neon -- see the Neon FAQ.
-- whining noise from the computer for 3-4 minutes after the engine
is shut, periodically, is normal.

Grand Cherokee -- JBRI...@compuserve.com says
that the GC rotors are prone to rust. If you live in a salt-prone
winter area, wash the INSIDE of the rotors withi a pressure
wash when you wash your vehicle in the winter! JBRINKER
also adds -- the rotors are easily replaceable. Simply remove
the wheel, unbolt the caliper, and pull the rotor off.
If you can change a tire you can change the rotor. Use new
pads and clean the caliper sliding surfaces.

PAINT COLORS

Metallic paints are more prone to problems.
Blue seems to be more prone to problems.
Get metallic blue if you want lots of chips and scratches.
Get white if you want paint that actually stays on the car.
Note: this applies to all brands of cars and trucks.

******************** OIL FILTER DISCUSSIONS *********************

Shel Belinkoff said:
on a project to test filters for their different abilities...Fram was
the poorest constructed filter of the group. Fram had the smallest
amount of filter media, although that, in and of
itself, is of little consequence. The filter uses paper end caps which
are glued directly to the filtering media using an epoxy type of glue.
Of the three Fram filters that were tested, two came apart at the end
caps. There just isn't that much surface area where the media and the
cap are joined, and should there be the smallest imperfection, the seal
is compromised.

Further, the pressure relief valve on the Fram filters was nothing more
than a bent piece of metal, with little ability to adjust to different
pressures. The design of the filter also allowed for a substantial
amount of oil to bypass the filtering media on each pass.

[The CR tests were done in 1986, and many filter designs changed].

Wix/NAPA Gold has about twice the filter surface area than a Fram, given
the same size filter. It, and the Amsoil, the AC, and
others, use substantial metal end caps which are turned down over the
media. The media is sunk into the epoxy about 1/8" on these filters,
allowing substantially more strength and durability. Some of these
filters have a media similar in type to the Fram, but offer not only
more surface area, but greater thickness as well. The media thickness
was measured using a micrometer.

AC uses a special "glass" media in their "L" suffix filters. This
material will filter to a finer particle size than the Fram.

The anti-drainback valves on the Amsoil, Wix, Mann, and several
other filters are far more substantial than the valve in the Fram.
Canister thickness is greater than Fram in several other filters,
affording them a greater burst strength.

The K-Mart filter was the only other filter I examined that had paper
end caps, but it even had a larger element than the Fram. Other points
of construction were similar enough that, if you didn't know which
filter you were examining, you'd be hard-pressed
to tell which was the Fram and which was the K-Mart filter.

While the Fram may certainly be good enough to do the job, and let's
face it, there are a lot of folks using Fram filters with what appear
to be good results, they may not be "good enough" in extreme
conditions, or where one is hoping to achieve great longevity from
their engines.

-------------------------

SL6 Daniel wrote: Skinned Knuckles Magazine's Matt Joseph wrote
about oil filters. When he cut open a bunch of filters, he found
substandard construction and materials in the Fram filter:
-less and smaller filter element
-thinner gauge metal for base plate and can
-scaly rust inside can--no rust protectant!
-flimsy "leaf-spring" style pressure relief valve/tension spring whose
tension varied sufficiently to present a risk of oil bypassing the
filter
-inconsistent placement of a substandard-thickness rubber oil drainback
valve.
-paperboard filter element end caps, glued to the EDGES of the filter
paper, bond was incomplete in a few samples
-in five samples, foreign material or glue or wire of some sort in/on
filter.

The Wix filter (and some others, I don't remember brands) he cut open
had just about the exact opposite of Fram's problems:

-metal filter end caps, securely epoxied to ends AND 1/8" of side of
filter
-consistent coil spring pressure relief valve/tension spring
-thick, correctly-placed rubber anti-drainback valve
-phosphate rust protection inside can
-no foreign material in filters.

-----

J.J. Gratelaiks said:

Check out a post by kru...@netcom.com (i think). He had an independent
lab test the top brands and the Fram did the best by far at filtering
small particles...

You say that Fram has thinner materials and such , but if the filter
still performs as well as or better than other brands, who cares? In
this age of weight conciousness by the auto manufacturers, maybe Fram is
doing the right thing. As long as the part performs to spec or better.
Besides the thing isn't intended to be on the car for 1 gazillion
miles..."a heavy component is a non-efficient component"... I HAVE seen
rust inside the tube on various other filters, WIX included, probably a
function of the steel supplier.


******************* CONSUMER REPORTS DISCUSSIONS *******************

Transferred to Web site.


******************* TALKING TO CHRYSLER CORP *******************

Chrysler's US customer service number (toll-free) is 1-800-992-1997.
Five-Star Dealers list: 1-800-677-5782.
Free catalog of service bulletins: 1-800-626-1523.
To order service manuals, MasterTech issues and videos,
and bound TSB lists: 1-800-626-1523
Zone offices are listed in your owners manual.
The customer arbitrarion board is listed in your owners manual.

For problems, see the discussion early in part 1 of this FAQ.

Write with suggestions, complaints, or praise to the Customer Center,
Box 302, Centerline, MI 48015. This department has been recently
reorganized and is now much more responsive.


***********************************************************
From Lloyd Parker:

Engines used in Chryslers since 1966:

4-cylinders: (MMC=Mitsubishi, VW=Volkswagen)

1.4 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 (MMC) -- Colt, Champ, Challenger, Sapporo, Arrow
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.6 DOHC (MMC) -- Colt, Summit
1.6 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Colt
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (MMC) -- Colt, Vista, Summit, Laser, Talon
2.0 (MMC) -- Arrow, Vista
2.0 (CC) -- Neon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Laser, Talon
2.0 DOHC (CC) -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer,
Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan,
Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona,
Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni,
Charger, E-Class, Shelby
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 (MMC) -- Vista, Summit
2.4 DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance,
Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim,
LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995)
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow,
Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine,
LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
2.6 turbo (MMC) -- Conquest (MMC)

2.5 is 2.2 with balance shafts, minor changes. 2.0 (CC) is 2.2 with
different heads, fuel system, some tweaks. 3.9 V-6 (below) based on 318.
2.4 is 2.0 with balance shafts, other minor changes.
----------------------------------
V-6:

2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (from 3.0)
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit,
Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 DOHC (MMC) -- Stealth
3.0 DOHC turbo (MMC) -- Stealth
3.0 (Renault) -- Premier, Monaco
3.3 (CC)-- New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5 (CC)-- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision
3.8 (CC)-- New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial, minivans
3.9 (CC)-- trucks
----------------------------------
The SLANT SIX:

2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St.
Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite,
Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare

Australian vehicles used slant sixes as well as home-modified straight
sixes which were much more powerful and originally intended for use in
American trucks.
----------------------------------
The AMC straight six crowd:

4.0 IL-6 (AMC-derived) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 IL-6 (AMC) -- Wrangler
----------------------------------
V-8s:
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum,
Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Grand Wagoneer
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet,
Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road
Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda,
Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere,
Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird
440 was base engine on Daytona, Superbird.
----------------------------------
8.0 V-10 -- Viper, Ram trucks.

Gary Howell <gho...@mail.miworld.net> notes that he has noticed some
confusion on V-8 Mopar engines, and clarifies the situation:

Small blocks
273/318/340/360 are LA engines they look the same from the out side.
273 cu. in. 1964-69 3.31 stroke and 3.63 bore
318 cu. in. 1968-91 3.31 stroke and 3.91 bore
340 cu. in. 1968-73 3.31 stroke and 4.04 bore
360 cu. in. 1971-91 3.58 stroke and 4.00 bore

The A engines (not LA) are older small blocks and look the same on the
outside to each other. The blocks are different in deck height, but share
some internal components with the LA block. The cylinder heads and intake
are different.

277 cu. in. 1956 3.75 bore and 3.12 stroke
301 cu. in. 1957 3.91 bore and 3.12 stroke
318 cu. in. 1957-67 3.91 bore and 3.31 stroke

The Magnum 318 and 360 engines are LA engines with different cylnder heads.
The blocks are physically the same as the earier LA engines, except the oil

passage for the shaft mounted rockers is not drilled, because the Magnum
engines oil through the push rods. The boss is there if you need to use
the old style heads.

Big Blocks

There are eight different big blocks. The B blocks are short deck and the
RBs are tall deck. The RBs require a wider intake manifold.

The Bs
350, 361, 383, 400

The RBs
383, 413, 426 Wedge (not Hemi), 440

All B engine use 3.38 stroke crank with different bores, and all RB
engines use 3.75 stroke crank with different bores. You'll notice that
the 383 is listed in two differnent places. There were two different
383s; the RB is very rare, only produced 64. The 350 was only produced
in 1958.

***********************************************************
BODY TYPES

(Below list courtesy Lloyd R. Parker)

A -- Valiant, Dart, Barracuda, LeBaron (sedan), Scamp, Duster
B -- Coronet, Charger, Magnum, Monaco, Premier, Belvedere, Satellite,
GTX, Road Runner, Fury, Cordoba
C -- Polara, Monaco, Fury, VIP, Gran Fury, Newport, 300, Town & Country,
New Yorker, Imperial, Dynasty
D -- Talon, (Plymouth) Laser
E -- Barracuda, Challenger, 600, Caravelle, E-Class, New Yorker
F -- Aspen, Volare
G -- Daytona, (Chrysler) Laser
H -- Lancer, LeBaron (hatchback)
J -- LeBaron (coupe/convertible), Cordoba, Imperial, Mirada
K -- LeBaron, Executive, Limousine, Aries, Reliant, 400, 600
L -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
M -- Diplomat, LeBaron, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, Gran Fury
P -- Shadow, Sundance, Duster
Q -- TC by Maserati
R -- St. Regis, Gran Fury, Newport, New Yorker
S -- Town & Country, Caravan, Voyager
Y -- New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Imperial

LH -- Concorde, New Yorker, LHS, Intrepid, Vision
PL -- Neon
JA -- Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible
FJ -- Sebring, Avenger (based on MMC Galant)
SR -- Viper
XJ -- Cherokee, Wagoneer
YJ -- Wrangler
ZJ -- Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer
SJ -- Grand Wagoneer
PJ -- Talon

Dave

unread,
Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

Archive-name: autos/chrysler-faq/general/part3
Posting-Frequency: 15
Last-modified: 1995/8/6
Version: 3.4s

Modifications and detailed fixes are at the web site -
http://ssn.ssnlink.net/~zatz/cc/

Most recent changes: added more 318 troubleshooting; disclaimer on engine
codes; added seat belt notes

See the very last part of this section for reading ESA computer codes
without a scan tool! Useful for those without the key-turn-watch-light
feature (e.g. 1985 Caravans) -- and those with it!

Contents: 1. Engine Codes
5. Info from the Center for Auto Safety
6. Reading codes without a scan tool
(computer controlled,
carbureted engines)
7. Air conditioner troubleshooting: moved to Web site
8. Preventing the a/c compressor from coming on
when all you want is Defrost! - moved to Web site
9. Crankcase inlet air filter, 2.2/2.5 engines.

DISCLAIMER:
While every effort has been taken to insure the accuracy of the

information contained in this FAQ list compilation, the author and
contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for
damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
The information below may be reproduced in any way PROVIDED
credit is given to the writers and the maintainer; and that it is not


published in book or magazine form without the prior written
permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without

needing to ask, a FREE copy of the final material; and no changes
are made (except for formatting) without the express permission of


the maintainer (za...@ssnlink.net = David Zatz).

- - - - - - - - - - - -

The latest copy may be obtained by the following commands:
ftp rtfm.mit.edu
[Name:] anonymous
[Password:] [your e-mail address]
cd pub/usenet/rec.answers/autos/chrysler-faq/general
dir


get part1 part2 part3 part4

cd ..
get neon [or whatever other FAQ might be there]
bye


- - - - - - - - - - - -

FAQ for rec.autos.makers.Chrysler - Part III

********************************************************
COMPUTER CODES

THESE ONLY WORK IF YOU HAVE FUEL INJECTION. Otherwise, see the web site or
the "troubleshooting electronic feedback carburetors" section.

Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is *not* start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes Each code is a
two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH <pause> FLASH
FLASH FLASH <loong pause>

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!
55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you don't have air conditioning.

When the computer indicates major failure, it will activate Limp In
mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure.

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.

Leeched from Herb with additions by Charles Hobbs.

* Activates Power Limited/Check Engine light.

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth;
OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)

21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V)
Probably bad oxygen sensor
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range
- May have been disconnected to set timing
23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
(need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
(SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections

31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in
air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated
- check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
(may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)
OR
Trans temparature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)

41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (lean condition)
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes

61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

88 Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it)

These codes cover multiple years and engines.

NOTE #1.

The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air
temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field
current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose
voltage is computer regulated. The battery voltage is sensed by the logic
module. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the
engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. -- Bohdan Bodnar

NOTE #2

From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a
transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't.
This may cause the low (no) voltage indication....no sensor
to send any voltage. -- J.E. Winburn

NOTE #3

Matt Rowe <st92...@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu> comments: The throttle
postion circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed.
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on
the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should
have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault
codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try
to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

NOTE #4

During cranking, the computer will test the current through the
injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's
path. If there is, code 26 is set.
The problem may be cured with copious use of
tuner cleaner on the connectors.
For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between
0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold
injector. With the engine idling the
peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period
will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or
there's a defect in the injector driver circuit. (Bohdan Bodnar)


***********************************************************
CHRYSLER INFO from CENTER FOR AUTO SAFETY

This is just a summary, we suggest you contact CAS at 2001 S
Street NW, Washington, DC 20009 for more info. Ask for this factsheet
and provide a self-addressed, 55 cent stamped envelope and, if you like,
a donation. Comments in parentheses are editorial remarks. Further
information is available on the 1989-91 4-speed automatic transmission. A
recall on the ABS brakes on many 1990s models was just announced.

* FIRES - recalls on 1985-87 turbo models for bad fuel hose connections.
* Valve cover gaskets on 1989-90 FWD models
* FIRES - fuel reservoir leaks on 87-89 Omni/Horizon.
* STALLING - Omni/Horizons mostly, drivability kits issued (2.6?)
* TIMING CHAINS - 1981-86, 2.6 liter engine. Chrysler often paid at
least partly.
* POWER STEERING - various FWD models (including minivans), 1981-89.
Problems in Saginaw & TRW steering units. TSB 19-01-83.
* SUSPENSION: 1981-83 K-cars, front crossmember corrosion.
* SEATS - 1985 Laser, LeBaron, 600, Lancer, Daytona power driver's seat
attachment failure.
* PARK - in column-mounted automatic trans -- 1981-90 vehciles -- NHTSA
investigation closed.
* BRAKES - 1978-92 models, rear brake lockup and master cylinder
failure. Pressure may get repairs out of warranty.
- ABS in many 1991 vehicles: recalled 91V-1991
- disc brake pad separation in 1989 Daytona and LeBaron - recalled
- ABS in 1992 minivans: may lose fluid, lose ABS - recalled
* SEAT BELTS: difficulty latching front belts, all 1991 models
(recalled)
- inoperative automatic belts in 1988-89 Shadow/Sundance (recalled)
* A/C: clutch failure, 1985-86 4-cylinder models. TSBs 24-01-85,
24-02-86.
* TRANSMISSION: 1989-91 models with 4-speed auto are unreliable (big
surprise). Write to CAS-Ultradrive for more info with a 55 cent stamped,
addressed return envelope. 1992-94 models may also have problems.


**************** CLASSIC CAR TROUBLESHOOTING ****************
Index for Classic Cars:

MOVED TO PART 3

C1. Won't start
C2. Practically any problem -
* mechanic says replace engine, trans, ignition, or carb
* stalling, rough idle, pollution, low mileage, etc.
C3. Stalling
C4. Windshield wipers won't work
C5. Water leaks into the car
C6. Runs rough cold, improves with heat.
C7. Rough idle on Lean-Burn (computer controlled carburetor) systems
C8. Gas gauge acts funny: See #34 above.
C9. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 above
C10. Slant six (225) problems, esp w/Super Six setup
C11. Weatherstrip repair: see #63
C12. 318 V-8 troubleshooting
C13. Seat belt looseness

************ Older Car Troubleshooting ************

C1. Won't start (za...@ssnlink.net <Dave>):

If the engine is dry and all was well before, check the ballast
resistor. It's a little white block attached to the firewall (the metal
between the engine and the driver), attached with a single bolt ands
connected to two electrical wires. It's incredibly easy to replace but
will eventually fail and prevent your car from starting. $5.

If the starter makes a rapid clicking noise, your battery may be worn
down, even if you can see your headlights. You will need a jump
from a car with a large engine and very good jumper cables.

If the engine was wet, dry it, separate the wires, and try again, Use
silicone spray or "wire drier" or, better yet, replace your wires with
top of the line, name-brand, lifetime warranty, 7 or 8mm wires. These will
probably improve your gas mileage and power as well.

SL6 Dan (das...@gladstone.uoregon.edu) adds: The thickness of the
insulation is not nearly so important as what is inside. For daily drivers,
the best
wire I've found is Whitaker's Multi-Mag. It comes in the same
configurations and colors and insulation materials as original, but uses
the well-proven spiral-wound construction that you find in wires such as
Accel and Jacobs. Much lower resistance, but no irritating radio noise.
They also have a lifetime guarantee and don't cost more than regular
(NAPA, etc.) carbon-string type wires. The Slant-6 wire set (32605 for
pre-75) even has the correct 1-piece moulded spark plug boots. These wires
are also sold under the BorgWarner/BWD KoolWire trade name.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C2. Anything from pollution to loss of power (za...@ssnlink.net <Dave>)

This may be caused by leaking vacuum hoses or idiot mechanics
disconnecting your vacuum hoses. If you like to breathe, and you want
your car to perform well, replace all of the vacuum hose -- it costs
maybe 10 cents per foot. Just get a few yards and do
it one day (warning: you may need different kinds or sizes). Make sure
all vacuum hoses are straight and not kinked. On later cars, the
computer relies on vacuum; on earlier ones, the carb feedback and timing
depends on it.

Vacuum leaks caused by leaking hoses that look okay to the naked eye may
result in the following diagnoses by mechanics:
* Need new carburetor
* Need new transmission
* Need new engine
* Need valve job
* Need new mechanic.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C3. Stalling (za...@ssnlink.net <Dave>)

See the above section on vacuum hoses. Turning the cold or warm idle
screw on the carburetor is a quick fix that doesn't solve the root
problem. If the car stalls when cold, lubricate the choke well. If it
stalls when wet, try getting much better ignition wires (8 mm, lifetime
warranty, good brand, about $30). Also try the following interesting
quick fixes:
* Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the electronic
ignition module
* Spray the little wires with silicone spray or wire drier
* Check for vacuum leaks (see above).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C4. Windshield wipers won't work (za...@ssnlink.net):

Put window insulating tape (foam) over the top of the wiper motor.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C5. Water leaks into the car:

A problem on many A-bodies (Valiant group). May be permanently solved by
(a) straightening out and emptying out the water exit hose, which drains
the cowl (the grille on top of the hood); and (b) keeping the cowl free
of leaves and gunk. This means occassionally raising the hood and
manually emptying the cowl opening. The little black tubes that carry
excess water out of there (2 of them) may be seen on the firewall (the
metal between the engine and the driver). Search for them. They're small
and behind other stuff. I might add that other makes, including Japanese
cars, also sometimes have this problem (as well as vacuum leaks).
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C6. runs rough cold, seems to improve with heat

geo...@bnr.ca (George Young) suggests:
1) Not enough voltage from old damp coil to light cold mixture? - new
coil.
2) EGR valve plunger binding open?
- remove and plug manifold vacuum hose to EGR circuit.
3) Other vacuum hose split?
- replace all vac hoses.

za...@ssnlink.net adds: 1) Better wires, CC rotor/distributor cap for best fit.

geo...@bnr.ca (George Young) adds: My old 318 ran rough when cold and
wet, would stall out until warm. Choke was the problem. Manifold
carboned up and wouldn't pass heat to choke coil thermostat. Changed to
manual choke and no more problem and increased gas mileage

Norm Woodward mentioned the electric choke heater: "The device's only use
was the confuse the choke into prematurely thinking that the engine was
heated up, allowing the autos to pass EPA tests in laboratory conditions,
but causing the car to stall when shifted out of park or neutral until the
engine was nearly warmed up... The correct fix was to simply remove the
wire powering the heater, and resetting curb idle which has probably been
set, by this time, too high.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C7. Lean-Burn (computer-controlled carbureted engine) rough idle

boh...@usgp1.ih.att.com (-Bodnar,B.L.) writes: My recollection is that
this system controlled air/fuel mixture only. (318 Lean Burn)

1). Are your coolant temperature sensor connection ok? If not, the
computer will see a cold engine and will run rich.
2). Are the oxygen sensor connections ok?
3). Is the heated air inlet operating correctly?
4). Vacuum leaks? Check all vacuum hoses with a religious fervor!
The leak's location many not even be obvious!
5). Carburetor problems: float low? valve seat damage? I doubt the
latter since it appears that the problem arose quite suddenly. The
following is something I've used on computer-controlled carbureted
engines many times: 1). Connect a high impedance dwell meter to the
mixture control solenoid, set the meter to the 6 cylinders scale, run
the engine around 2000 rpm until hot and see the dwell. If the a/f
mixture's ok, you'll see the dwell oscillating about 30 degrees. Low
dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture lean and running closed loop.
High dwell with oscillations => a/f mixture rich and running closed
loop. Dwell at or below 10 degrees => system stuck lean. Dwell at or
above 50 degrees => system stuck rich. The latter two extremes indicate
closed loop operation since open loop operation typical will show a
stable dwell reading between 20 and 30 degrees (usually, closer to 20).
Do not do this test at idle since some engines will be operated in open
loop at idle REGARDLESS of the coolant temperature sensor's output.
Incidently, I've just outlined the procedure for GM's "System
Performance Test" which is used on GM C3 carbureted engines.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C8. Gas gauge acts funny: See #34. (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C9. Stalling or poor idle - wet weather / snow -- see #39 (part 4)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C10. Slant Six problems

Cold driveability problems tend to stem from poorly
adjusted choke and choke pulloff, bad accelerator pump, and sloppy carb
rebuilds (Carter BBS one barrel is better than Holley 1920.)
Other big driveability problem source is the fact that the vibration
damper outer ring tends to slip, which makes the timing mark WAY OFF. Which
means timing would never be accurately set. Also check for timing chain
stretch.

Check by putting the engine at #1 TDC - top of compression stroke (both
valves closed) and see where the timing mark is. There are companies that
re-bond dampers with new silicone material. I think one is called Damper
Dudes, out of California. I don't know if this happens on other CC engines.
Basically, if your damper has an inner hub and an outer ring sandwiching
rubber bonding material, this can happen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C11. 318 V8 troubleshooting

From: bt...@torfree.net (Bruce Martin) wrote:
One very common fault with the otherwise wonderful 318 is that the
exhaust crossover in the intake manifold (which warms the base
of the carb) becomes clogged. This is common so it should be
among the first things you check.

blac...@aztec.asu.edu (CURT PINCK) wrote:
It is interesting the wide variety of timing specs given for the 318, all
the way from 2 degrees ATDC to 16 degrees ATDC, depending on the type of
engine and vehicle...Most books recommend not to try to time by ear, even
if you have experience doing this.

Ted Devey <te...@ftn.net> adds two more steps:
1. examine the reluctor teeth in the distributor for possible damage,
nicks etc. which can happen if the gap gets too small. If there is damage
to the teeth, replace the reluctor.

2. Several years ago I dismantled the Carter 2-barrel carburettor and
reassembled it with the jet assembly upside down. There is no obvious wrong
way.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C13. Seat belt looseness

During the late 70's up through the late 80's all American cars had
something called a window shade mechanism to allow for a small amount of
slack to build-up in the shoulder belt. This was to prevent people from
complaining that their belts were too tight. I experienced (ref:June '87
Car and Driver article by Patrick Bedard) a problem where the seatbelt
built up too much slack. Sometimes the belts, like a windowshade, would
never return at all. There is usually a large plastic button on the 'B'
pillar that needs to be fooled into thinking the door is always opened,
which by the way disables the window shade mechanism and is how the belts
return 'home' when you get out of the car. Cut the plastic button very
close to the 'B' pillar, being careful not to cut into the inner spring
Take a cotter pin and put it through the loops of the spring, this
prevents the spring from ever retracting. Chrylser mini-vans are even
easier in that they have a rotating plastic cam with a striker pin that is
engaged by the closing door. Just cut the striker pin and you eliminate
the problem.


=========================

DIAGNOSING PROBLEMS IN COMPUTER CONTROLLED
CARBURETED ENGINES

From: boh...@uscbu.ih.att.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)

This is a description of the procedure I've used to diagnose air/fuel
mixture problems in computer controlled carbureted engines; the
outlined procedure can also be used to set the idle air/fuel mixture
without infrared exhaust gas analysis. The procedure is
based on the General Motors "System Performance Test."

THEORY

The a/f mixture is controlled by a MIXTURE CONTROL SOLENOID (MC
solenoid). This is a valve which operates at a fixed frequency
(typically, 10 Hz) and whose duty cycle (valve's ON time divided by
period) is varied. That is, the valve is pulse width modulated. When
the valve is turned on, the incoming a/f mixture is fully leaned; when
off, fully enrichened. The former is called a "lean command" whereas
the latter is called a "rich command." By varying the duty cycle of the
MC solenoid, the AVERAGE a/f mixture can be varied. In GM products,
this valve directly varies the incoming fuel and air flow. In Chryslers,
only the
incoming fuel flow is directly varied.

The valve has a two wires electrical connector. On wire is connected to
switched battery voltage whereas the other is connected to a power
transistor in the computer and is a source of switched ground.

During closed-loop operation the following will occur (assume the oxygen
sensor is sensing a lean condition -- its voltage will be low):

1). The computer gradually decreases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

2). The exhaust eventually becomes rich enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing high (about 1 volt).

3). The computer gradually increases the MC solenoid's duty cycle.

4). The exhaust eventually becomes lean enough that the oxygen sensor's
output will swing low (about 0 volt).

The cycle now repeats. A device for monitoring the solenoid's duty
cycle (such as a dwell meter) will show a constantly varying duty cycle.
The frequency of the oscillations will depend on the how fast the
computer varies the duty cycle and the engine's RPM. An AVERAGE duty
cycle of 50% corresponds to, on the average, NO average a/f correction.
Stated differently, everything is operating correctly. An average duty
cycle of LESS THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a rich command
(the computer is compensating for a lean condition). An average duty
cycle GREATER THAN 50% corresponds to, on the average, a lean command.

DIAGNOSIS AND SETTING IDLE A/F MIXTURE

Monitoring the MC solenoid's average duty requires (for most people) the
use of high impedance dwell meter. A low impedance dwell meter may be
used unless it affects engine operation; my recommendation is to not
use a low impedance dwell meter (that is, stay away from self-powered
dwell meters). Following the GM procedure, set the dwell meter to the
six cylinders scale REGARDLESS of the number of cylinders in the engine.
At this setting, 30 degrees will correspond to a 50% duty cycle, 60 to a
100% duty cycle, and 0 to a 0% duty cycle. Run the engine until closed
loop operation is present; this will be indicated by a varying dwell
(see footnote 1 for deviations from this procedure). Once the engine is
hot, not the average dwell -- the reading should vary equally above 30
degrees and equally below 30 degrees. The following is a brief trouble
listing:

1). DWELL NOT VARYING: system is operating in open loop.

2). DWELL STUCK AT 10 DEGREES OR LOWER: full rich command is present;
the computer is compensating for WHAT APPEARS TO BE a massive fuel flow
reduction (check for dirt in carburetor, air injection system stuck in
upstream position, vacuum leaks, improper a/f mixture setting...).

3). DWELL STUCK AT 50 DEGREES OR UP: full lean command is present
(check for float stuck low, valve seat damage, oxygen sensor's sense
lead shorted to battery voltage, etc.)

4). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS BELOW 30 DEGREES: average
rich command is present (check for vacuum leaks, dirt in carburetor's
jets, improperly set a/f mixture...)

5). DWELL OSCILLATING, AVERAGE READING IS ABOVE 30 DEGREES: average
lean command is present. Check for incorrectly set a/f mixture, float
stuck low, valve seat damage, clogged air filter, etc...).

Based on the above descriptions, it should be fairly clear on how to set
the idle a/f mixture: merely set the mixture so that the average dwell
is 30 degrees. Now, suppose the system's dwell is not varying, but the
sensors are working properly, the upper radiator hose is hot...

Several cars with small engines have the oxygen sensor mounted fairly
far away from the engines. Indeed, during idle conditions, the sensor
may cool off to the point that it will not operate.
My recommendation is that all electrical accessories be turned off (so
as to provide a minimal load on the engine) and use the idle stop screw
on the carburetor to gradually increase the idle rpm until the sensor
begins oscillating. Ensuring a negligible load on the engine guarantees
that the carburetor will be operating mostly on its idle circuit. Now,
set the a/f mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees.

Note that the a/f mixture setting procedure assumes that NO fuel
delivery problems (vacuum leaks, clogged carburetor, etc.) are present.

FOOTNOTES

[1] In some engines (e.g., GM cars with the "min-T" system -- Chevette)
the a/f mixture is varied REGARDLESS of whether the engine is in closed
loop operation or not. Consider setting the a/f mixture or diagnosing
at a slightly increased rpm.

**************************************************

9. REPLACING CRANKCASE INLET AIR FILTERS

If you remove the air cleaner and look at it from the front, the
breather (crankcase filter) will be in the "box" at the lower right
side. To get at it, you remove the 8 or so machine screws and the
bottom of this "box" will fall off. The filter is held in place by a
crudely placed screen. Lee makes a replacement filter (about
$2). In my Le Baron, I ended up replacing all the screws with
self-tapping sheet metal screws since the factory had almost every one
overtightened. --- Bohdan Bodnar

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