rec.pets.dogs: Introduction FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/introduction.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
INTRODUCTION TO REC.PETS.DOGS.*
Table of Contents
* History of rec.pets.dogs.*
* Current Groups And Charters
* Acknowledgements
* History of the FAQ's
_________________________________________________________________
History of rec.pets.dogs.*
Prior to the summer of 1991, there was a single newsgroup for
discussing issues of interest to pet owners. This was rec.pets, and
this group still exists for those pets that don't have their own
newsgroups.
Rec.pets.dogs (and rec.pets.cats) was formed in the summer of 1991.
Joe DiBenedetto proposed the split and collected the votes, which
proved more than enough for its official creation.
In the late summer of 1994, another discussion on splitting
rec.pets.dogs itself started up, due to the hundreds of daily messages
on the group. This split was proposed by Cindy Tittle Moore, and
Ronald Dippold collected the overwhelmingly positive vote. The new
splinter groups were created on November 9th, and rec.pets.dogs
removed two months later.
ORIGINAL CHARTER FOR RPD
Rec.pets.dogs is a newsgroup devoted to domestic canine issues. This
group can be friendly and helpful. Flamewars are generally limited to
several topics: crating dogs, training by the Koheler method, docking
and cropping, animal rights activism, wolf hybrids and pit-bull (or
other breed) dog bans. New readers are advised against starting these
topics up on the newsgroup as long, protracted, and inflammatory
discussions often ensue. The facts pertaining to these controversial
topics are covered in the FAQ's. This is not to say that these topics
are forbidden from discussion on rec.pets.dogs, but that regular
readers would greatly appreciate it if you checked out what the FAQ
had to say on them to make sure you have something new to contribute.
_________________________________________________________________
Current Groups And Charters
QUICK SUMMARY
rec.pets.dogs.activities Dog events: showing, obed, agility, etc.
rec.pets.dogs.behavior Behaviors and problems: housetraining, chewing,
etc. rec.pets.dogs.breeds Breed specific -- breed traits, finding
breeders, etc. rec.pets.dogs.health Info about health problems & how
to care for dogs rec.pets.dogs.info General information and FAQs
posted here. (Moderated) rec.pets.dogs.misc All other topics, chat,
humor, etc. rec.pets.dogs.rescue Information about breed rescue,
placing and adopting The groups were created on 11/9/94.
CHARTERS FOR REC.PETS.DOGS.*
rec.pets.dogs.activities
This group is for the discussion of activities involving dogs.
Examples include but are not limited to conformation,
obedience, field trials, herding trials, frisbee/disc
competition, flyball, hunting, sledding, backpacking/camping
and hiking. Other appropriate topics include discussion of
training for the particular activity, physical conditioning,
how to hook up with activities available in your area, etc.
Sportsmanlike conduct is expected; in particular, derogatory
comments about activities you don't care for are frowned upon.
Use of keywords in the subject line to clearly identify your
activity is encouraged.
rec.pets.dogs.behavior
This group is for the discussion of typical behavioral problems
with dogs. Examples include but are not limited to: digging,
barking, aggressive behavior, housetraining, crate training,
etc. Also appropriate is discussion of "why" dogs behave as
they do and how to work with that to eliminate some behaviors
and reinforce others.
rec.pets.dogs.breeds
This group is for extensive breed specific discussion. Topics
may include breed specific health problems, locating breeders
of particular breeds, discussing breed specific abilities and
characteristics, asking about what breeds make appropriate pets
under what circumstances. Clearly identifying the breed you are
discussing in the subject line is encouraged.
rec.pets.dogs.health
This group is for health and medical questions related to dogs.
This includes, but certainly is not limited to, questions on
hip dysplasia, epilepsy, eye problems, diabetes, bloat,
allergies and skin problems, etc. Hereditary and acquired
diseases may be discussed, as well as traumatic disorders.
Questions about nutrition and feeding are also appropriate
here. This newsgroup is not intended to replace veterinary care
in any way, but is to help inform the dog owner about canine
health.
rec.pets.dogs.info, moderated
This is a moderated group and only posts faqs and informational
files relevant to rec.pets.dogs.*. The moderator is Cindy
Tittle Moore (rpd-...@netcom.com, rpd-info...@netcom.com)
Appropriate faqs that are already cleared for posting to
news.answers are automatically eligible to be posted here.
Others that are regularly posted (and listed in "Complete List
of RPD.* FAQ's") are also eligible for posting here. No
discussion is permitted on this group. This group is intended
to make the faqs and artictles with useful information for RPD
more visible and easier to find, especially for newcomers.
rec.pets.dogs.misc
This group is for miscellaneous questions that are not more
appropriate for one of the other groups. This includes chat,
humor, anything pertaining to canines not explicitly covered
elsewhere. This group replaces the original rec.pets.dogs
group.
rec.pets.dogs.rescue
This unmoderated newsgroup proposed as rec.pets.dogs.rescue
will be used for the discussion of all aspects of dog rescue.
Topics appropriate to this newsgroup will include, but are not
limited to:
+ General questions and answers on dog rescue.
+ General announcements relative to various rescue groups.
+ General discussion of methods to use in helping a rescue dog
adjust to its new home.
+ Idiosyncrasies found in rescue dogs, i.e., fears, aggression,
etc., and how to handle same.
+ Training or re-training the rescue dog.
+ Breed specific rescue group information.
_________________________________________________________________
History of the FAQ's
Michael Mahler attempted a FAQ in 1991 that consisted of compiled but
unedited articles saved from the net. Due to time constraints, he gave
up the project, and I received copies of the articles that he had
saved and incorporated much of them in here from other readers. I have
heard of other attempts at FAQ's well, but no real details.
The current suite of RPD FAQ's started out as eight articles,
patterned largely after the RPC FAQ's the author had just completed.
These were put out publicly in the summer of 1992, and have since
grown to over 20 FAQs and some 50 breed specific FAQ's. Many of the
breed FAQ's are written by volunteers familiar with or researching the
breed.
_________________________________________________________________
Acknowledgements
First and foremost, I would like to thank the posters of RPD.* over
the years. Many of them contributed substantial material for this FAQ.
A good number have pointed out errors and corrections, keeping the
FAQ's wonderfully up-to-date. Some contributed unknowingly, as I
lifted their posts directly from the newsgroup, obtained them from
summaries kept by other people, or lifted them out of mailing lists.
Without this body of knowledge and contribution, these FAQ's would not
exist. A complete list of the faqs may be found in the regularly
posted "Complete List of rec.pets.dogs.* FAQs" on rec.pets.dogs.info.
To thank every contributor has proven increasingly impossible over the
years as the numbers have swelled beyond counting or listing. But a
few I would like to thank in particular are:
Marla Belzowski (for her initial encouragement and Collie FAQ),
Stephen R. Lee (for the Mushing section and Mal/Sib FAQ's), Liza
Miller (for her extensive contributions to the Puppy FAQ and the Lab
FAQ), Lily Mummert (for her extensive comments on herding), Michael
Sierchio (overall comments, feedback), Charlie Sorsby (information on
hunting tests), and Rusty Wright (for much of the original material on
Guide Dogs).
I'd like to thank Michael Buening for the creation of the Rescue FAQ
and Janice Ritter for its current maintenance. Charlene Douglass wrote
the Pet Loss FAQ, Ian Hogg the Flyball FAQ. Jeff Parke has commented
on different sections in the Medical Info FAQs. Bonnie Dalzell
generously contributed the Lurecoursing FAQ, and Amy Hendrix the
Selecting A Dog FAQ.
Finally, I'd especially like to thank all the authors of the Breed
FAQ's who contributed their time and expertise to write the documents.
_________________________________________________________________
Introduction to rec.pets.dogs.*
Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-...@netcom.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1994 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission. This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.
Explicit permission is hereby granted to all humane shelters, animal
shelters, city pounds and rescue organizations placing animals to
redistribute the material under the conditions above.
Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: rpd-...@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/behavior.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
BEHAVIOR: UNDERSTANDING AND MODIFYING
_________________________________________________________________
Table of Contents
* Prologue
* Top Ten Canine Myths
* Principles Behind Dominance
* Aggression with Other Dogs
* Housetraining Problems
* Submissive Urination
* Other Common Problems
+ Chewing
+ Biting
+ Fear Biting
+ Barking
+ Digging
+ Getting in the Garbage
+ Jumping
+ Car Chasing
+ Tug of War
+ People Food
_________________________________________________________________
Prologue
First, you should understand that there are two components to
"training" and they are frequently mixed. There is the kind of
training that solves behavioral problems. There is also the kind of
training that creates a command-response pattern. It is perfectly
possible to have a dog that heels, sits, and stays perfectly and digs
out all your marigolds. Conversely, you may have a dog that does not
destroy things in your house nor jump up on people, but does not sit
or heel. For purposes of clarity, I consider the former type of
training as "behavior modification" and the latter type as "obedience
training."
While this article discusses behavior modification and tries to help
you understand what the sources of trouble between you and your dog
may be, I want to stress that there is absolutely no replacement for a
trainer or animal behaviorist you know and trust to help you and your
dog. Having someone to ask questions and show you what works with your
dog is like having the picture as opposed to the words -- a thousand
times better. Nevertheless, this article will hopefully help with some
common problems.
That said, some good books that are aimed at helping solve problems
between dogs and owners are:
Dunbar, Ian and Gwen Bohnenkamp, Behavior Booklets.
Recommended especially for the first time dog owner. He has a
booklet on every common problem, such as: biting, fearfullness,
housebreaking, chewing, digging, barking etc. and has a really
simple, common sense, all bases covered sort of approach which
doesn't leave you asking, "But what do I do if the dogs performs
(such and such) variation?" which is *really* important for people
who don't have experience to fall back on. They can be had from:
Center for Applied Animal Behaviour
#2406 2140 Shattuck Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94704
Evans, Job Michael. (1991). People, Pooches, & Problems. NY: Howell
Book House. ISBN 0-87605-783-0 (hardcover). $19.95.
Excellent suggestions for dealing with common problems between dogs
and their owners. Highly recommended. [Evans is a former New Skete
monk.]
Milani, Myrna M., DVM. The Weekend Dog. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
training, housebreaking, and so forth.
Monks of New Skete, The. How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend. Little,
Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent, well
written classic.
Pryor, Karen. Don't Shoot the Dog!.
Introduction to inducive training. Lots of food for thought
Tucker, Michael. Solving your Dog Problems. J.M. Dent Pty Ltd,
Australia. ISBN: 0-8677-0053-X.
It is really funny, and it really makes you think about the messages
that you give your dog. Recommended for anyone who instructs in
obedience or who is trying to train their dog to be obedient, or
just easier to live with.
_________________________________________________________________
Top Ten Canine Myths
Hey, Rover would rather be outside all day than cooped up inside!
False. Dogs are strongly pack-oriented animals. They prefer best to
be with their pack whenever possible. If you are inside, they will
want to be inside with you. If you are outside, again, they will
want to be with you. If you are at work, while they would still like
to be with you, this is not usually possible. In this case, does it
matter whether the dog is kept inside or outside? It turns out that
many dogs behave well when kept inside; bark, dig, and whine while
kept out in the yard. Why is this? Your home is the "den." Dogs
prefer to be closer to the center of the den -- the place where the
pack's smells are most acute. While some dogs are happy to stay
outdoors during the day while the rest of the pack is gone to work,
a great many dogs develop behavioral problems as a result of daily
"expulsion" from the den.
In addition, a dog with access to a large territory may feel
compelled to "defend" all of it, resulting in other types of
problems: frantic barking at "intruders," and so on. Restricting the
amount of territory it has to protect may reduce this type of
behavior.
A good compromise for many dogs is access both to a restricted part
of the house and a restricted part of the yard. The inside-outside
access keeps him from feeling ejected from the "den" without having
too much territory to defend. A dog that can't be trusted inside and
is destructive outside will probably benefit the most from being
crated during the day. With most dogs, if you crate them through
puppyhood (which also helps with housebreaking), by the time they
are mostly adult (from 8 months to 24 months of age depending on the
breed) you can start weaning them off the crate. Because they are
used to spending the time in the crate quietly, they will form the
habit of spending that same time quietly whether in the crate or not
as adults.
Well, OK, but it's different in the country, isn't it?
It is an absolute myth that living in the country confers greater
latitude in the dictum "thou shall keep thy dog constrained to the
immediate environs of the pack." Country dogs allowed to run free
get shot by hunters or farmers protecting their livestock. They get
into fights with other dogs over territory. They can kill livestock,
fight and tassle and get disease from wild animals, and be hit by
cars on the highway. They become increasingly aggressive as they vye
for larger and larger perimeter boundaries to their territory, and
they no longer relate to YOU as the leader of their pack. Also,
don't forget that intact animals will breed and add to the
overpopulation problem.
This same misconception leads people to dump unwanted dogs "in the
countryside." Most such dogs die a painful death, either by slow
starvation, injuries from being hit by a car or in a fight with
another animal, or they are shot by farmers protecting their
livestock. The countryside is not some sort of romantic haven for
stray dogs.
When dogs are mad at people, they do all kinds of spiteful things.
First remember that "undesireable behavior" is in the eye of the
beholder. To the dog, it's perfectly alright to dig, to bark, to
chase after other dogs, etc. This doesn't mean you can't control
these behaviors, of course, but it does mean that the dog isn't
doing them "to spite you." The dog hasn't a clue that it's not to do
these things unless you train it not to. And it has to understand
what you want from it!
When dogs start undesirable (to humans) behavior, its best to try to
understand the source of this behavior. Often it stems from the
frustration of being left alone. Dogs are very social animals. One
positive solution is to make sure your dog is properly exercised.
Exercise is a wonderful cure to many behavioral problems and dogs
just love it. Do check with your vet for the proper amount of
exercise for both the age and breed of any dog. Another solution is
obedience training. The point is, your dog needs your attention,
whether it is by taking it out on a walk, training it, or both.
Ah, but my dog always looks GUILTY after he's done something like
this!
No. He's reacting to your body language and emotions. When you come
in and see the toilet paper all over the floor, you get mad. The dog
can tell that you are upset and the only thing he knows how to do is
to try and placate you, as the alpha. So they try and get you out of
your bad mood by crouching, crawling, rolling over on their backs,
or avoiding eye contact. You interpret the dog as acting "guilty"
when in fact the dog hasn't the faintest idea of what is wrong and
is simply hoping you will return to a better mood. The important
thing to remember is that if your dog finds that it cannot
consistently predict your anger or the reasons for it, it will begin
to distrust you -- just as you would someone who unpredictably flew
into rages.
This is why it's so important to catch dogs "in the act." That way
you can communicate clearly just what it is they shouldn't do.
Screaming and yelling at the dog, or punishing it well after the
fact does not tell your dog what is wrong. You may in fact wind up
teaching it to fear you, or consider you unreliable. You must get
your dog to understand you, and you have to work on the
communication gap, as you are more intelligent than your dog.
Preventing your dog from unwanted behaviors coupled with properly
timed corrections will go much further in eliminating the behavior
from your pet than yelling at it.
In fact, you should not yell at, scream at, or hit your dog, ever.
There are much more effective ways to get your point across. Try
instead to understand the situation from your dog's point of view
and act accordingly. The techniques in this chapter approach
problems with this in mind.
Crating a dog is an awful thing to do to it and they hate it.
Again untrue. Dogs are by nature den animals. When properly
introduced to a crate, most dogs love it, and they will often go
into their crates on their own to sleep. Of course, no dog should be
left in the crate so long that it must soil the crate. It's a
wonderful tool to use for housetraining, but puppies are not
physically equipped to go for more than three or four hours without
going to the bathroom. And all use of a crate should be done with an
eye toward eventually weaning the dog off of it. There are only a
few dogs that must always use a crate while you are gone.
Afterwards, it is a very useful thing to have -- for example if at
all possible your dog should always ride in the car in his crate.
Crating a dog works to prevent the dog from doing many of the
behaviors you don't want it to. What your dog does not do does not
develop into a habit and thus requires no correction. Second, it
means that when your dog does have an opportunity to engage in the
unwanted behavior, you are around (because you're home to let it
out) to give a proper and timely correction.
As the behavioral aspects pointed out above, reducing the territory
to protect and keeping it in the den are also positive things from
the dog's point of view, reducing the overall stress that it
experiences.
Ya gotta show a dog who is boss.
To some extent, this is true. But what many people think this is
comprised of are usually quite wrong. You don't show a dog "who is
boss" by hitting it, yelling at it, or via other methods of
punishment. You show a dog who is boss by being its leader. Show it
what to do, how to behave. Most dogs are waiting for you to take the
lead. There are actually only a very few dogs who will actively
challenge you for "top dog" position. Rather, most dogs take the
"top dog" position because their owners have made no effort to do
so, and not only that, their owners don't recognize what is
happening -- until the dog starts correcting them for their
misbehavior!
Interestingly, many forms of behavior that have been touted as
showing dominance over a dog backfire badly. This is because in many
cases dogs really aren't contending for the "top dog" position:
applying techniques to "show him who is boss" in these instances
results in the dog being alienated from you and distrusting you
because you corrected it for no good reason. The alpha roll, long
touted as the "best" of these methods is in reality a last ditch,
all out correction. It's what you do to your teenager after he's
taken a joyride in your car and totalled it, not when he first asks
you for the keys. Being unfair to your dog in this way can create a
fear biter, one who has lost all hope of being treated fairly and
defends himself the only way he knows how.
_________________________________________________________________
Principles Behind Dominance
For obedience training to proceed smoothly, your dog must consider you
its alpha leader. This means that it considers YOU the boss. There are
a number of exercises you can to to establish and maintain dominance
over your dog. Individual dogs vary in submissiveness. If your dog is
very submissive, you don't need to worry about establishing dominance
(in fact, you may need to tone down your own dominating behavior to
help bolster its confidence). Most dogs are happy to be submissive:
just be sure to show approval at the occasional signs of submission,
and assert dominance if it tries to test you (most dogs will, in
adolescence). A very few dogs may be dominant and continually
challenge you for dominance, in which case you will actively need to
assert and establish your position, but this last is exceedingly rare.
More often, people will misinterpret adolescent high energy or bratty
behavior as ploys for dominance when they are not. Think of a two year
human child testing her parents. She's finding out what the limits are
rather than actually "challenging" her parents for leadership. Puppies
and young dogs do exactly the same thing. Correct them firmly, but
don't go into an all out "dominance battle" -- it's inappropriate and
your dog will begin to distrust you. Returning to the toddler analogy,
the most you might do is a sharp word or a small swat on the rear. You
would not pick her up, hold her against the wall and scream at her.
Remember that most dogs are still "young" (in human terms, under 20
years of age) until they are two or three. In other words, don't
confuse physical maturity with mental maturity.
Never mistake being alpha with punishment. An alpha leader is fair. An
alpha leader *deserves* its position. An alpha leader does not use
fear, punishment or brute force to achieve and maintain its position.
An alpha leader, instead, makes it crystal clear what behaviors it
approves of and which it does not. An alpha leader expects its
subordinates to follow its lead, it does not force them to.
If you get mad at your dog, or angry or furious, you've lost the alpha
position. Dogs do not understand fury. You have to be calm and
focused.
ALWAYS SHOW APPROVAL AT SIGNS OF SUBMISSION
Praise your dog when it drops its eyes first. Praise it when it licks
you under the chin. Give it an enthusiastic tummy rub when it rolls
over on its back.
BE CONSISTENT AND FAIR IN YOUR CORRECTIONS
You must demonstrate to your dog that it can trust your orders. Do not
ever correct the dog after the fact. Such corrections appear to be
arbitrary and unfair to the dog, because it has no associative memory
the way people do.
If your dog is still a puppy, socializing it is a good way to gain its
trust.
If you decide that some action requires correction, *always* give a
correction when you see that action. For example, if you decide that
your dog is not allowed on the sofa, then *always* correct it when you
see it on the sofa.
Consistency can be a big challenge with a family: every family member
must agree on the basic ground rules with the dog; when and for what
it should be corrected, what commands to use and so on. Families must
cooperate extensively to avoid confusing the dog. It is best if only
one person actively trains the dog; thereafter if the commands are
given the same way, everyone in the family can use them.
Finally, always use the *minimum* correction necessary. If a sharp
AH-AH will do, use that rather than an alpha roll. If a pop under the
chin will do, use that rather than a scruff shake.
CORRECT THE DOG'S CHALLENGES
Especially during adolescence, you dog may test and/or challenge your
position. Do not neglect to correct this behavior. You don't need to
come down like a ton of bricks; just making it clear you don't
tolerate the behavior is sufficient. For example, don't let your dog
crowd you through the door, don't let him jump out of the car until
you've given him permission, don't let him jump for food in your hand.
Don't let him ignore commands that he knows.
LEARN HOW TO DISPLAY ALPHA BEHAVIOR
You may not need to use all of these, but you should be familiar with
them. They are listed in "escalating" order. Do not use any of these
if you are angry or upset. The point is never to hurt the dog, but to
show it who is alpha. They work best if you are calm, firm, and matter
of fact. Again, always use the minimum correction necessary.
More important than knowing how to perform an alpha roll is learning
to play the alpha role. That means having the attitude of "I am always
right and I will _never_ let my dog willfully disobey me" without ever
becoming angry or giving up. Picture a small two-year old toddler, for
example. You're not in a struggle over who's "Mom" but over what the
child is allowed to do, and there's a crucial difference in the two.
Using an alpha roll on a dog who is already submissive but disobeys
because it doesn't know what is expected of is destructive to the
relationship between you and the dog. Likewise, using an alpha role on
a dominant dog but not using any other positive reinforcements can
alienate it. Most dogs never need to be alpha rolled in their lives.
Furthermore, alpha rolls are one of the strongest weapons in dominance
arsenal. Save it for the gravest of infractions.
Being dominant is no substitute for learning to read and understand
your dog. Proper obedience (which should be a part of any dog's life,
even when "only" a pet) is a two way street and requires you to be as
responsible to your dog as your dog is responsive to you.
There are a number of ways in demonstrating dominance:
* Timeouts: put the dog on a down stay or if not yet trained to do
so, put it in its crate quietly and without fuss. Fifteen minutes
is fine. No yelling is necessary, keep it all very quiet. This is
often suprisingly effective, since dogs are such social creatures.
* Eye contact: alphas "stare down" subordinates. If your dog does
not back down in a stare contest, start a verbal correction. As
soon as it backs down, praise it.
* Taps under the chin: alpha dogs nip subordinates under the chin as
corrections. You can use this by tapping (NEVER hitting) your dog
under the chin with one or two fingers. Don't tap on top of the
muzzle, not only can you risk injuring your dog's sense of smell,
you may make him handshy.
* Grabbing under the ears: alpha dogs will chomp under subordinate
dogs' ears and shake. You can mimic this by holding the skin under
your dog's ears firmly and shaking. Again, do not use excessive
force. Do this just enough to get the point across. DO NOT grab
the top of the neck and shake. You may injure your dog this way.
* Alpha roll: Pin the dog to ground on its side with feet away from
you. Hold scruff/collar with one hand to pin head down (gently but
firmly) with the other hand on hip/groin area (groin area contact
will tend to cause the dog to submit to you.) Not recommended.
INSIST ON DECOROUS BEHAVIOR
Feed your dog after your own dinner. Make him lay down while you are
eating rather than beg at your lap. Don't let it crowd through a
doorway ahead of you. Don't let it hop out of the car until you say
OK. There are a variety of small things you can do that assert your
dominance in a non-traumatic way. If you're clever about it, you can
use them to get a well-behaved dog (one that doesn't shoot out of the
front door or scramble out of the car or beg at the table). In
particular, putting a behavior that the dog wants to do on hold until
you say OK is a very good way to be the alpha and keep the dog well
behaved.
MAKE SURE YOUR DOG OBEYS EVERYONE IN YOUR FAMILY
This is a fairly important point. If your dog seems to have trouble
obeying a particular family member, you must make sure it does so, by
always backing up the family member when he or she tells the dog to do
something. If the family member seems to be afraid of the dog, or is
very young, then you should supervise all interaction until the
problem is resolved.
_________________________________________________________________
Aggression with other Dogs
Dogs can be aggressive with other dogs, especially if they have not
been properly socialized with other dogs in puppy-hood. Sometimes a
dog that is naturally dominant has trouble with other dogs especially
in puberty. Sometimes a dog has a specific experience (e.g. a dogfight
with another aggressive dog) that causes it to become aggressive
toward other dogs in general as well. Whatever the reason, it is well
worth your time working on your dog's aggression toward other dogs.
You will probably get the best results, especially with a problem dog
-- extreme aggression, for example -- if you contact a local trainer
(preferably one that specializes in problem dogs) for individual help.
However, there are some common-sense things you can do.
First a bit of basic dog pychology: friendly behaviors include moving
side by side, sniffing butts, tails wagging at body level (not up high
or over the back). Not-friendly behaviors include meeting
face-to-face, esp. a face-to-face approach, ears forward and tail over
back.
Force them into friendly behaviors as follows: walk the dogs in
parallel on leash. They should be close enough to see each other but
not close enough to snap at or touch each other. Be careful when you
two turn that the dogs don't tangle. Make sure one doesn't get ahead
of the other: keep them parallel. Keep this up until they relax.
Slowly start walking closer together as behavior permits.
Hold one dog on leash in a sit. Have food treats and a water bottle
handy. Walk the other dog toward it, to about six feet, then turn away
(increase the distance if the sitting dog snarls). The idea is to turn
away *before* the sitting dog shows any aggression. If the dog shows
no agression, reward it with a food tidbit or verbal praise. Do NOT
touch the dog (stand on the leash or tie it down). If it does growl,
spray it with water. Switch the dogs so that each experiences sitting
or walking toward. They are learning that good things happen without
defensive behavior. As they improve, start walking a bit closer before
turning. If the sitting dog snarls, do NOT turn the other dog away:
the person with the sitting dog should correct it and when the dog
subsides, THEN the moving dog should turn away.
Finally, holding the head of one dog, but allowing it to stand, have
the other dog investigate its rear briefly. This is really the extreme
extension of the above.
These exercises have several purposes. One is to force the dogs to
consider themselves friendly by engaging in the behavior of friendly
dogs. The other is to teach both dogs that an approaching dog is not
necessarily grounds for aggression.
This will take a lot of work, probably over a couple of months, but
they will work, and what's more, should reduce tensions with other
dogs as well (i.e., not only between the two specific dogs in the
exercises).
_________________________________________________________________
Housetraining Problems
All housetraining problems are frustrating, but the good news is that
it's often easy to fix with a little thought and care. Some tips:
SUDDEN CHANGES IN ESTABLISHED HABITS
If your dog has been fine with its housetraining up till now, there
may be several reasons for it to break with its training.
* If there have been no major changes in its life, your dog may very
well have a medical problem, such as kidney trouble. Have your vet
rule out possible medical causes.
* It may be trying to defend its territory if you have a new animal
in the household. You will probably need to separate the pets for
a while, and reintroduce them gradually. Provide each with a
retreat area.
* It may be generally upset or anxious if you've just moved and
trying to assert ownership of the new territory. Mark your
territory first: scatter dirty laundry around the house to tell
your dog YOU'VE claimed the territory and your dog should subside.
After a few days, you can pick up the laundry.
EATING FECES
Some dogs will eat other animal's feces. By and large, this is a
fairly normal, if disgusting, habit. The main risk of this habit lies
in picking up internal parasites. If you have such a dog, you should
make sure it is frequently checked for worms by your veterinarian.
If it is cat feces in an indoor litter box, you can try the following:
* If you have a utility closet or some other closet where you can
keep the litter box, you can fix the door so that it only opens
enough for a cat to get through (assuming big dogs) by using
something like a string/ribbon/rope over the door handle to a
small hook on the adjacent wall or door jamb. If you can make a
more permanent change, you could put a kitty door into the closet
and be able to keep the door shut.
* Get the kind of litter box with a big top and a "kitty door" or
even just an opening on it. Place the litter box with the opening
about 4"-6" from a wall (backwards from the way you would normally
think of placing it). This leaves just enough room for the cat to
get into the box but not (usually) enough room for the dog to get
to the box. The kind of box with the swinging kitty door helps
make it a little harder for the dog to get into it.
A surprising number of dogs eat their own feces (coprophagy). This is
a fairly disgusting habit, but difficult to cure. One way to prevent
this from occurring is to clean up feces as soon as possible, but this
can be difficult for dogs left in yards or kennels all day.
The Monks suggest feeding your dog a dry food that is at least 23%
meat protein, and about 25% raw meat. In addition, either an egg, or a
tablespoon of vegetable oil every few days. They also think that
eating feces may involve a dietary deficiency. Adding Accent
(monosodium glutamate) or kelp tablets (usually available at health
food stores) to your dogs food can give the feces a bad taste for the
dog. Also putting tabasco and vinegar on the feces themselves may
work.
This is a difficult problem and not always solved or stopped. It
doesn't really hurt the animal, although you should take care to have
it checked often for internal parasites, which it's more likely to
pick up.
URINATION
If it is a change in your dog's normal behavior, it might be a
bladder infection or some other medical problem, so check that with
your vet first.
It's rather common for older spayed bitches to start dribbling. This
is easily fixed most of the time with doses of estrogen. In many
cases, the doses can be tapered off after a few months. Some dogs
require estrogen for the rest of their lives. Only small doses are
needed, so it's not that expensive to treat.
If your dog is urinating in different places around the house, you can
try the "vinegar trick". Pour some vinegar on the spot in front of the
dog. What you're telling the dog with this is "I'm alpha. YOU may not
pee here." Then clean it all up first with an enzymatic odor remover
and then a good carpet shampoo (see the Assorted Topics FAQ).
DEFECATION
Defecation is not as frequently a problem as urination can be.
However, the most often recommended remedy for a dog that defecates in
the house is to change its feeding times so that you are likely to be
walking the dog when it needs to defecate or it is outside in the
yard, etc. This will take some time of fiddling with the amount,
frequency, and timing of feeding your dog to get the results you want.
_________________________________________________________________
Submissive Urination
The genetically shy dog is a super submissive type and unlike many
dogs are quite sensitive to any forms of "dominant" behavior in
humans. Even ordinarily submissive dogs can become extremely
submissive if its owner misunderstands and unintentionally forces it
to increase its submissiveness. Mistreated dogs may also become
excessively submissive.
First, tone down your aggressive behavior -- with a submissive dog
there is no real need to consciously dominate it. Examples of
dominating behavior include:
* Direct eye contact
* Standing over the dog
* Walking towards the dog while looking at it
Tips:
* Wait when you come home. Say "hi" and be verbally friendly, but
don't touch or pet it for about 5-15 minutes. Try not to make the
moment more exciting than it already is.
* When you greet it, get down on its level. Rather than standing and
bending at the waist, bend at the knees (or sit) so that your face
is about level with his and you are not looking down on him. This
is a less dominant position, and less likely to trigger a
submissive posture.
* Don't pet it on the head. Rather, tell it to sit, maybe "shake
hands", then scratch it under the chin and on the chest. This is
less dominating than the pat on the head (because you avoid
standing over it).
* When you correct this type of dog, do so with your voice only
(avoid direct eye contact). If it starts to urinate, then say
immediately, "OK, let's go out!" in a happy tone of voice -- and
take it out. Or, take a toy out (something it likes to do) and
play with it. What you are doing here is telling your dog, "OK, I
see your submissiveness. That's good."
* When guests come over, ask them to ignore your dog and not look at
it even if it comes up and sniffs them. After a bit, when people
are sitting down then have them gently put their hands out and
talk to your dog, without looking at it. Usually after about 15
minutes or so everything is fine.
In general, show signs of low-key approval immediately when the dog
becomes submissive. Then distract it with something else. When you
ignore submissiveness or get mad at it, you're in effect telling the
dog "You're not submissive enough!" so the poor thing intensifies its
efforts -- and submissive urination is about as submissive as it gets.
Be really positive with your dog, this type lacks self-confidence and
will look to you quite often to make sure everything is OK.
One technique that helps many dogs with this problem is called
"Flooding." You need a group of people, preferably ones who will
stimulate the undesired response (in this case, peeing). You find the
least intimidating step for your dog (the point at which she does not
submissively urinate), and work on each step until she's comfortable
with each. If she urinates, you've gone too fast and you should back
up a step until she's more confident. This process will take a while.
* Have your dog sit with you on leash (preferably not on carpeting!)
* Have the group of people walk past your dog without looking at
her; when they can do this without her peeing, move on to next
step (this is true of all steps)
* Next have the people look/smile at her when they walk past
* Next have the people say something to her ("Hi puppy") as they
walk past
* Next have the people give her a treat as they walk past
* Next have the people touch her (ex. pat on the head) as they walk
past
* Next, repeat the previous 5 steps but with the people stopping
instead of walking past (ie, stop but don't look, stop and look,
stop and say hi,...)
Actually, this technique can be used for all kinds of other responses:
a dog that jumps on people, barks at them, etc.
_________________________________________________________________
Other Common Problems
CHEWING
Many puppies like to chew on everything they encounter. Certainly,
very young puppies explore the world around them by tasting most of
what they find. First of all, as a practical measure, remove anything
harmful from the dog's way. Put electrical wiring behind furniture
wherever possible, put cleaning supplies up out of reach or secure the
cabinet doors to them. Clean small objects off the floor.
Make sure you have a supply of allowable chewing items on hand.
Whenever the dog is in a crate or small room, there should always be
some of these toys to chew on. Whenever you are at home and see the
dog about to chew on something it shouldn't, say "AH-AH" and give it
one of its toys.
There are products available to spray on items to make them taste
unpleasant. Some caveats: a few dogs are not bothered by the taste;
it's not really a cure for the underlying problem, but it does help
you train the dog; you must make sure the product does not harm the
item to be sprayed first. Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange are available
at most pet supply stores; veterinarians have other formulations they
may sell to you.
The judicious use of crating, toys, and watching the puppy closely
will be the way you teach it to leave your house alone.
BITING
It is natural for young puppies to bite and chew on people; however
DON'T let them do this.
If your dog is a puppy, yelp pitifully when it chomps on you, and
replace your hand with a chew toy; praise heartily when the chew toy
is used instead. If it persists, stand up and stop playing with it. It
is no fun for the puppy if you stop interacting with it, and it will
learn to stop chewing on you fairly quickly.
With older puppies and dogs, say "NO BITE" sternly and withdraw your
hand.
If the dog goes through a cycle where it seems to be infuriated by
your correction and returns ever more aggressively to chew on you,
call a timeout and put the dog where it can't get to you, preferably
its crate. When it calms down, let it back and be prepared to
interrupt the cycle if it starts again.
Never put up with a puppy biting or mouthing you. When they are adult,
the problem will be far more severe.
FEAR-BITING
This is a separate problem, caused by a fearful and submissive dog
that feels cornered. It indicates an extremely poor temperament and
possible abuse. Such dogs should never be bred.
To deal with a fear-biter (evidenced by a dog that bites/threatens to
bite but has its ears laid back along its head rather than facing
forward), first you have to deal with the insecurity and temperament
of the dog. This kind of dog has no self-confidence at all, hence its
ready alarm at normally innocuous situations.
Think of the submissive dog outlined above. You need to build up its
confidence: pay close attention to understand exactly what sets it off
(some are afraid of men, men with beards, people holding something in
their hand, small children, etc) and for now, remove that from its
environment. Do some training or other work with it to build up its
confidence (the training in this case becomes a vehicle for praising
the dog). Then work slowly on its fear.
You should really enlist professional help to deal with a fear biter
unless you are experienced with dogs. This kind of dog takes lots of
patience and careful reading and may never become trustworthy. If you
cannot resolve its problems, consider having it destroyed; don't pass
it along to someone else to become a problem for that person.
BARKING
Each and every time your dog barks, go out and see why the dog is
barking. If your dog is barking for a good reason (such as a stranger
in the yard), you should praise your dog and then tell it to be quiet.
If the dog is barking because there is a squirrel up the tree, or
something similar, tell the dog to be quiet and immediately go back
into the house. You will have to repeat this every time the dog barks.
Pretty soon, in a week or so depending on the dog, the dog will only
bark for a good reason. The dog may still bark at the squirrel, but
not continually. Instead, one or two good barks to scare the squirrel,
and then it considers its duty done. At the same time, you have not
dampened your dogs ability to bark when there is something wrong.
Dealing with complaints about barking. If your neighbors complain
about your dog barking while you are not at home, first purchase a
voice-activated tape recorder and set it up where your dog will
trigger the tape if it barks. You may find that your neighbor is
incorrect about how much your dog actually does bark (keep a log of
the barking you record). You may find out what exactly causes it to
bark (hearing a car drive by before each barking sequence, for
example), giving you some ideas for eliminating the behavior. But do
determine that there is actually a problem before you try to do
something about it.
If you know that you have a problem, you might enlist the help of your
neighbors. Neighbors are often happy to help you with this problem!
Have them squirt water at excessive barking, or rattle cans of
pennies/rocks, etc.
In any event, take a neighbor's complaint seriously, even if it is
unwarranted. More neighbor disputes arise over barking dogs than
anything else, and dogs have been injured or killed by neighbors
desperate for a good nights sleep.
There is some evidence that barking is an inherited trait: if the
parents bark a lot, chances are their puppies will, too.
Often, one method that helps alleviate barking is to give your dog
specific permission to bark. Teach it to "speak" -- let it "speak"
when appropriate (say, when you're playing in the park). Then "no
speak" follows from that. However, there is often a problem when the
dog is alone. The following methods outline some other possibilities
to address this problem.
Collars
There are collars, called anti-bark collars, available that are meant
to help train your dog not to bark. Dogs will react differently,
depending on how well they learn, train, and handle. The collars by
themselves are not the solution to your dog's barking: it must
understand what the collar does, and you will have to *train* it using
the collar. Some are electronic and others are sonic. These can be
quite effective if introduced properly. Ideally the dog should not
understand that it is the collar giving the correction so that you can
ultimately wean the dog off the collar. Read the instructions on the
devices; the good ones will outline exactly how to train them.
There are two types, one will eliminate the barking -- that is, they
are triggered by any barking the dog does. Others are "diminishers",
they will kick in after one or two barks. There are a few that adjust
to be one or the other. With diminisher collars, watch out for the dog
learning to "pattern bark" -- they've learned they can bark twice,
pause, bark twice, etc. You will need to switch to an eliminator in
this case.
The best collars are triggered by throat vibration rather than noise;
this helps avoid having your dog corrected when a nearby car
backfires!
Debarking
Surgery on the dog's vocal cords, called debarking, can be done to
reduce the barking to a whispery sound. This is a controversial
practice, banned in Britain and other places. Some vets will refuse to
do the surgery.
The dogs do not stop barking. They do not seem to notice the
difference, or at any rate continue "barking" as if they still made
the noise.
There are different ways to perform the surgery, and it is possible
for the vocal cords to grow back and the dog to regain its bark. If
the vocal cords are cut, chances are the cords will heal themselves.
If they are cauterized, the operation will last longer. Whether it is
over a period of weeks or months, it seems that many dogs eventually
regain use of their vocal cords.
Muzzles
There is a "No-Bark Muzzle" that is designed to prevent dogs from
barking. Many dogs very rapidly learn not to bark when the muzzle is
put on them each time they start barking. It is not binding or
confining and does not put the dog through surgery. In general, though
dogs should not be left alone with muzzles on, unless it allows them
to drink.
DIGGING
Dogs may dig out of boredom or to make a cooling/heating pit.
Some approaches:
* Filling in the holes: Try refilling the holes with junk. With
junk, dogs can quickly lose interest and pretty much stop digging.
Fill the hole with whatever is at hand - dead leaves, sticks, pine
needles, rocks or even dog feces. Fill the top 2 inches or so with
dirt. The dog finds the stuff, gets discouraged and often quits
digging. They seem to get the idea they'll never know where
they'll find junk, and it's not worth the effort to dig only to
find junk so they quit.
* Surprises in the hole: The Koehler dog method advocates filling
holes with water and sticking dog's head under the water for a few
seconds or so. This may not work with some breeds (e.g.,
Labradors), and may not appeal to you as a method to try.
Alternatively, you can try burying a water balloon in one of the
holes which will pop in its face when it starts digging
(surprise).
* A sandbox: Try to remember that digging is a natural tendency for
dogs. So, if there is any place where your dog may be allowed to
dig, you should encourage it (and only in that place). Designate
an area where the dog can dig. Many people build a sand box for
their dog. Place the box in an area that is cool in summer and
warm in winter.
To teach the dog to dig only in the box, place or bury toys or
treats (sliced hotdogs, for example) in the box. Encourage the dog
to dig up the toy or treat. Praise the dog. Repeat until the dog
willingly jumps in and digs. Watch the dog. When it starts to dig
in any other place, quickly go out and take your dog to its box.
Show it (by digging yourself), that it should dig in its box. To
deter boredom, place several toys/treats in the box before you
leave for work. The dog will spend its time digging in the correct
place rather than digging up your roses. You can also sprinkle
animal essence (available at hunting supplies places).
Remember that dogs like to dig in freshly turned earth. So get out
that shovel and turn the dirt over in the sand box every now and
then. Toss in some fresh dirt. Keep a close eye on freshly planted
areas, as they will be very attractive (bury some extra hotdogs in
the sandbox when you are putting down new plants).
* Line the yard. for extreme cases you can line the yard with
chicken wire and put a layer of sod over that. Use paving bricks
or blocks around the edge to prevent the dog from injuring itself
on the edge of the chicken wire.
GETTING IN THE GARBAGE
You should train your dog away from this habit. Crate it, to keep it
out of the garbage when you are not home, and correct it when it gets
into it when you are at home. This works best if you start in
puppyhood.
If you already have this problem, some approaches to try:
* You can get "Mr. Yuk" labels and put them in the trash to keep
them out of it or spray Bitter Apple into it. But you have to
remember to do this regularly. If you can, put the trash out of
reach of the dog, eg, under the sink. You may need to get the
kinds of trash cans that have closing lids. Don't start easy and
work your way up as the dog figures each one out: you are just
training your dog how to open garbage cans. Get a good, well
secured one at the start.
* Get some jalapeno peppers, or something that your dog REALLY
HATES. Slice them up and spend some time wrapping each one
individually in tissues or kleenex. Fill the trash can with the
wrapped surprises and let your dog at it. A few days of this
should convince your dog that trash cans are not fun.
* Put a mousetrap in the bottom of an empty can, cover it with
newspaper, then put something that the dog really likes in the can
and leave the room. Only do this when you are around, do not trap
all the trash cans and then go off to work for the day!
JUMPING
Since most dogs are shorter than you, their natural tendency is to
jump up to see you. It is also an expression of exuberance and
happiness. However, you may be wearing your Sunday Best. The dog's
paws may be muddy. The puppy may grow too large. Some people are
afraid of dogs. Train your dog not to jump on people. If you don't
mind your dog jumping on you, then train it to jump on you only when
it's "OK".
In general, correct it immediately when it jumps on you, praise it
when all four paws land back on ground. A helpful reinforcement is to
give them a command and praise lavishly when they do it, e.g., "No!
Brownie, sit! Good girl, what a good girl!"
Try to anticipate the jumping: look for their hindquarters beginning
to crouch down, and correct them when you see them *about* to jump.
With medium-sized dogs, you can discourage jumping with a well-timed
knee in the chest (never kick). This does not work as well on small
dogs and very large dogs. With small dogs, step back so they miss you;
you can also splay your hand in front of you so their face bumps into
it (don't hit them, let them bump into you). Correct, then praise when
on ground. With larger dogs, the kind that don't really *jump*, but
*place* their paws on your shoulders, grab some skin below their ears
(be firm but not rough) and pull them down, saying "No!" Again, praise
it when it is back on ground.
You should note that some dogs do not respond to the above physical
corrections. They may view it as a form of rough play, or be so happy
to get attention that they don't mind it being negative. In these
cases, a much more effective approach is to ignore such a dog,
stepping back slightly or turning your back when it jumps. Give lavish
praise and attention when all paws are on the ground again.
Gradually expand this to include friends and visitors. Start first
with people who understand what you want to do and will apply the
physical correction in conjunction with your "No!" As the dog
improves, expand with other people. In the interim, a reinforcing
exercise is to put your dog on a leash, and stand on one end of the
leash or otherwise secure it so your dog can stand but not jump. When
it tries to greet someone by jumping up, praise it *when it lands* and
don't correct it for attempting to jump.
For those of you who don't mind being jumped, you can gain control
over it by teaching your dog that it can jump on you -- when you OK
it. At random times (i.e., not *every* time you correct it), after
your correction and praise for getting back down, wait thirty seconds
or so, and then happily say "OK, jump" (or something similar, as long
as you're consistent) and praise your dog when it jumps up then. At
other times, when it is *not* trying to jump on you, encourage it to
do so on your permission, using the same phrase. You must make it
clear that it shouldn't jump on you unless you give it permission, so
you must still correct unpermitted jumping.
CAR CHASING
This is symptomatic of a larger problem: why is your dog free to run
after cars in the first place? If the dog is being allowed to roam
that should be stopped. A car chasing dog is a menace to itself as it
may get killed, and is a menace to drivers as people may injure or
kill themselves trying to avoid an accident.
Have a few friends drive by (slowly) in a strange car. When the dog
gets in range, open the window and dump a bucket of ice cold water on
the animal's head/back. Repeat as needed (with a different car) for
reinforcement.
TUG OF WAR
The Monks (and former Monk, Job Michael Evans) seem to believe that
playing tug is a form of "teaching" the dog to use its teeth, and
therefore a precursor to the dog's learning to use its teeth as a
weapon. In their view, you should never play tug with a dog. On the
other hand, there are many people and organizations, especially in
obedience and working dogs (patrol, narcotic, and search and rescue)
that actively use tug of war as a reward and a way to build up a
strong play response. People with hunting retrievers never play tug of
war for fear of creating a "hard mouthed" dog (one that mangles the
birds it retrieves).
Dealing with the possible aggression incurred in tug of war is
probably more constructive than never teaching your dog to use its
teeth. Besides, studies on canine aggression show that even extremely
docile dogs can be provoked to show aggression. Houpt and Wolski in
their book _Domestic Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal
Scientists_ note: "Growling is an aggressive call in dogs, and is
commonly known. It is interesting evolutionarily that even the most
placid dog can be induced to growl if one threatens to take a bone
away from it. A scarcity of food in general can increase aggression
..., but bones seem to have particular value even for the satiated
dog."
This can hinge on whether you (as the owner) can distinguish between
challenges and playing. If the dog is playing when doing TOW, there's
no problem. If it *is* challenging you doing this, you need to 1)
recognize the challenge (versus just playing) 2) win and 3) stop the
TOW and correct its challenge to your authority. If you can't make the
distinction, then don't play tug-of-war with it. Couple any tug-o-war
games with the command "Give" or something similar so that the dog
learns to immediately let go ON COMMAND. If it doesn't, that's a
challenge, and you need to deal with it. Teach your dog what "give"
when you start playing this game with it. When you know that your dog
understands the command, then periodically reinforce it by having your
dog "give" at random times. This becomes a form of keeping your alpha
position as mentioned earlier in this article. And tug of war,
properly implemented, is an intensely rewarding game for many dogs,
making a good "treat" during training sessions, for example.
PEOPLE FOOD
Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to add
unneeded calories to its diet and your dog may become overweight.
Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping down any food it can
get, it may seriously poison or distress itself someday.
Some guidelines. Do not feed the dog anything but dog food and dog
treats. You might add vegetable oil or linatone to the food to improve
its coat. There are other foods that you may want to add to improve
its diet such as vegetables, rice, oatmeal, etc., (check with your vet
first for appropriate food to meet the dietary need you want to
address), but always feed them to the dog in its dish, never from your
plate or from your hand while you are eating.
Discourage your dog from begging at the table by tying it nearby (so
that it does not feel isolated from the social activity) but out of
reach of the table. After you finish eating, feed the dog. Tell your
dog "no" or "leave it" if it goes for anything edible on the floor (or
on the ground during walks!), praise it when it obeys you. Teach it
that the only food it should take should be from its dish or someone's
hand.
If you are concerned about the "boring and drab" diet for your dog,
don't think of food as a way to interest it! Play with it, take it out
on walks -- there are many other and better ways to make life exciting
for your dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Behavior FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/breeding.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
BREEDING YOUR DOG
Table of Contents
* Should I Breed My Dog?
+ I want to make some money!
+ My kids should see the wonders of birth and life!
+ I want another dog just like mine!
+ Every bitch should have a litter!
+ But my dog is registered!
+ So I should breed when...?
* Potential Hereditary Problems
+ Eyes
+ Hip and joints
+ Other things to check for
* Medical Checks before Breeding
* Temperament
* Pedigree Research
* Frequency of Breeding
* Care of the Pregnant or Nursing Bitch
* Caring for the Puppies
+ Prewhelping preparations
+ Postwhelping
+ Placing the puppies
* Considerations for Stud Dogs
* Genetics
* References
_________________________________________________________________
Should I Breed My Dog?
You may be wondering whether or not you should breed your dog. Here is
some information. The summary is that if you want to do it right, and
get healthy and happy puppies, it is very expensive and a lot of work.
Remember that you are going to need a vet that is familiar with
whelping dogs. This will be your best resource, as well as any
long-time breeders that you know. Not all vets are knowlegeable about
whelping so be sure to ask around and especially look for
recommendations from local breeders that you may know.
I WANT TO MAKE SOME MONEY!
Breeding, and doing it right, is an expensive undertaking. By the time
you've picked out a good bitch, waited for her to grow old enough
(minimum age: two years before breeding), picked out the best dog to
mate her with, gone through all the health checks she needs, ensured
that the dog you want to use also passes the same health checks,
you've invested a lot of time and effort. You still have to pay a stud
fee (or give a puppy back), you have potential extra expenses during
pregnancy, you have the time and expense of whelping (either you take
time off from work or something goes wrong and you have to take her in
to the vets). You need to keep the puppies for a minimum of 8 weeks
before sending them to their homes; you need to advertise and find
good homes for the puppies, you need to make sure they have had their
shots before going. You may have possible vet bills if the puppies
require extra attention. If some of the puppies die, or you have a
smaller than usual litter, you may not get as much money from the sale
of the puppies as you had though. There are even potential problems
later on with dissatified customers! You are better off consulting
with a financial wizard about investing the money you would otherwise
spend and lose on breeding!
Breeders frequently count themselves lucky if they break even.
MY KIDS SHOULD SEE THE WONDERS OF BIRTH AND LIFE!
What if the whelping goes wrong and dead puppies are born? What if the
bitch dies? These are all very real risks that you are undertaking.
Much better alternatives include videotapes that are available. If
there are local 4-H clubs, those provide alternatives for children.
I WANT ANOTHER DOG JUST LIKE MINE!
If you want to breed your dog so as to get another dog like yours,
think about this for a moment. No matter how special your dog is to
you, a puppy out of it is not guaranteed to be just like or even
similar to your dog -- half its genes will be from another dog! You
will have to find another dog that also has the characteristics you
want in your puppy; that dog will have to be unneutered; and the owner
of that dog will have to be willing to breed her/his dog to yours. It
is much easier, often less expensive, and certainly less time
consuming to pick out an existing dog that you like from the shelter
or another breeder. Best yet, go back to the same breeder of your dog,
if possible, and pick another puppy out of similar lines.
EVERY BITCH SHOULD HAVE A LITTER!
This is flat out wrong. Bitches are not improved by having puppies.
They may undergo temporary temperament changes, but once the puppies
are gone, she'll be back to her old self. Nor is it somehow good for
her physically. In fact, you will put her at risk of mammary cancer
and pyometra. There is absolutely nothing wrong with spaying a bitch
without her having a litter.
BUT MY DOG IS REGISTERED!
Well, yes, but that doesn't mean a whole lot. A registered dog, be
it AKC, UKC, CKC, etc., simply means that it's parents (and their
parents) are also registered with the same registry. This confers no
merit in of itself, it simply means that the dog's parentage is known.
Most registries do not make any assertions of quality in the dogs they
register (except for some limited breed-only registrations, but these
are uncommon). They do not restrict the breeding of their dogs and
hence there is no guarantee that a registered dog is a good specimen
of its breed.
The AKC has just started a "limited registration" program whereby
puppies out of such dogs are ineligible for registration. It remains
to be seen what the overall impact on AKC dog breeds will be. Other
registries have used similar programs with good results.
SO I SHOULD BREED WHEN...?
The only reason you should be breeding is that you honestly feel
that you are improving your breed by doing so. There are far too many
dogs in the country to breed without good reason. A dog in a breeding
program must be one whose genetic history you or its breeder is
intimately familiar with. Such a dog must represent the best efforts
of its breeder at that point. Such a dog must have good points to
contribute, whether that is in good conformation, good performance or
whatever. Such a dog must have some evidence of external evaluation.
That is, others besides the breeder or the owner must also think that
the dog is a good representive of its breed. That usually translates
into titles, whether for conformation, obedience, field, herding, or
whatever is appropriate for that breed. Such a dog must be tested as
it matures for any problems that tend to appear in its breed, whether
that is hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, von Willebrand's, cataracts,
PRA, fanconi syndrome, subaortic stenosis, etc.
_________________________________________________________________
Potential Hereditary Problems
Every breed has a different set of potential problems for it. I have
listed common ones below, but this is not to say that all dogs must be
checked for everything listed. You need to do research in your breed
to find out what the common problems are. You will also need to
research the particular bloodlines you are using to see if they are
prone to any additional problems you want to know about and screen for
as well.
EYES
Most breeds require eye checks of some sort, for a variety of
problems. These include, but are not limited to problems such as
* Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA). This disease eventually causes
total blindness. In some breeds the onset is quick, before the dog
is two or three. In others, the onset is much later, when the dog
is four to eight years old (and may have already been bred). Irish
Setters have a test available that can detect carriers and
affected dogs; other breeds do not have this recourse. It appears
to be a simple autosonomal recessive, but the late onset
complicates breeding programs. If a dog is affected, then both
parents are either carriers or also affected.
* Retinal Dysplasia. Causes eventual blindness. This is believed to
be hereditary. Some dogs can be detected with this condition in
puppy hood, but carriers cannot be identified until they produce
such puppies.
* Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA). This affects the collie breeds (bearded,
border, rough, smooth) as well as some closely related ones. This
condition also causes eventual blindness and is inherited.
* Cataracts. There are many forms and causes for cataracts, but some
forms, such as juvenile cataracts, are inherited and such dogs
should not be bred.
* Entropion, Ectropion: These are conditions in which the eyelids
turn in or out, causing various problems and often pain for the
dog.
The Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) in the USA registers dogs
that are found to be clear of eye problems by a board certified (AVCO)
veterinarian. Dogs need to be cleared yearly as there are some types
of eye problems that show up later in life.
HIP AND JOINTS
There are a variety of joint problems found in most breeds. Toy breeds
can have joint problems too; just because your breed is smaller
doesn't mean you can figure you are free of hip dysplasia and be done
with it. There are several problems that specifically affect smaller
dogs!
* Hip dysplasia is probably the best known problem. This is a
malformation or deterioration of the hip joint, so that the socket
it sits in is too shallow to secure the head of the femur. As the
condition progresses, arthritic changes begin to destroy the
protective cartilage and the dog may experience severe pain if the
condition is bad enough. Some dogs are asymptomatic, but still
should not be bred. This condition primarily affects the
medium-to-large breeds, but smaller breeds have been known to be
affected, for example Cocker Spaniels and Shetland Sheepdogs can
have this problem. To make sure your dog is free of hip dysplasia,
you need to have the hips radiographed and then obtain an expert
analysis of the xrays. Your vet isn't necessarily the one to do
this! In the US, you would mail the xrays to the Orthopedic
Foundation of Animals and wait several weeks for their evaluation.
In Canada, Europe and Britain, there are equivalent programs, but
all differ in the type of certification and age at which they will
certify; some organizations certify after one year of age, others
certify after two years of age.
* Osteochondrosis Dessicans (OCD) is an elbow joint problem. A bone
spur or a flake wears away at the joint which becomes stiff and
painful. Xray evaluations of these joints are also needed. Many
breeds that are prone to hip dysplasia may also have OCD.
* Patellar Luxation is a problem affecting the kneecaps. Smaller
dogs are more prone to this problem than larger ones are. The
kneecap will slide out of place and lock the leg straight.
Diagnosis is fairly straightforward and surgery can correct the
problem, but no dog with patellar luxation should be bred as this
is also an hereditary condition.
There are a few other types of problems, affecting other joints like
the hocks, or affecting the spine, that you should be aware of in some
breeds. This is only an overview to give you an idea of what kinds of
problems are out there. Remember that joint problems, even if not
hereditary, may make it problematic for a bitch to be bred. Pregnancy
is hard on the joints and on the body in general and if she isn't in
the best of physical health, it is much kinder not to breed her.
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK FOR
* In some breeds, deafness is a potential problem. Puppies at risk
should be BAER tested and any that fail should be neutered.
* Heart conditions in many breeds must be checked for. Subaortic
stenosis (SAS), other malformations of the heart or valves.
* Hemophilia type of problems, e.g., von Willebrand's disease and
others.
* Malabsorptive syndromes, digestive problems.
* Epilepsy.
* Allergies.
* Incorrect temperament for breed.
Finally, remember that not only the potential dam but also the sire
must be checked for all the things appropriate for their breed and
particular bloodlines.
_________________________________________________________________
Medical Checks before Breeding
You must make sure the bitch and the stud both are free from
brucellosis before breeding them. Brucellosis causes eventual
sterility in both sexes (sometimes non-obviously) and can cause a
litter of puppies to be aborted or die shortly after birth. In
addition, brucellosis is on occasion transmissible to humans via the
urine or feces of an affected dog. Between dogs, it is most commonly
passed in sexual intercourse, although an entire kennel can be
infected through contact with secretions.
The sire should be in excellent general health. The dam must be in
good health, to withstand the stresses and rigors of a pregnancy. They
must both be up to date on their vaccinations.
_________________________________________________________________
Temperament
Never breed any animal that has temperament problems. In particular,
this has been the cause of the degeneration of many breed's general
temperament: Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, and so on. If your
animal is untrustworthy around people, overly aggressive to people,
excitable, or is a fear-biter, do not breed it. If it is shy or
submissive, don't breed it. Look for happy, confident and obedient
animals, and consider carefully the particular temperament
requirements for your dog's breed.
There are a variety of tests to indicate a dog's temperament. Many of
the working breeds have a temperament test (for example, the
Doberman's WAC test) for their breed. AKC has a Canine Good Citizen
test (open to all dogs) that gives some indication of the dog's
temperament (and, yes, training). Therapy Dogs International and other
Therapy Dog clubs have temperament testing that does try to separate
out actual temperament from training. Obedience titles can be (but are
not necessarily) an indication of good temperament.
_________________________________________________________________
Pedigree Research
You must carefully consider each dog's pedigree for compatibility. Try
to select strengths to offset weaknesses. Do not allow your bitch to
be bred to an unsuitable dog, and conversely, be picky about the
bitches you allow your dog to breed. This phase alone requires
considerable research to find a suitable candidate, and you should
definitely work closely with a knowledgeable person, ideally the
breeder of your dog. Simply because two dogs "look good" or even *are*
good does not mean that they necessarily complement each other:
suppose they are both carriers for the same disease? Suppose they both
have a tendency to overbites or other disqualifying faults?
Be honest with yourself. If your dog is not a good representation of
its breed, do not let it reproduce. It is much easier to improve a few
faults than to try and get excellent pups with a mediocre dog. Check
the breed standard for your dog and ask a knowledgeable person for
their evaluation of your dog.
We'll return the the importance of scrutinizing a pedigree in the
genetics section below.
_________________________________________________________________
Frequency of Breeding
Ideally, a bitch should only be bred every other year and she should
not be bred much before two years of age. The season closest to the
second birthday is a good one to start with; certainly no earlier than
this. In some breeds, you may need to wait one more season before
beginning. By this time, she is better prepared mentally for having
puppies than she would have been with her first few seasons. Her
physical growth is complete and pregnancy at this point won't endanger
her health, provided that she is healthy to begin with.
In breeds with Hip Dysplasia, many people wait until after two years
of age so that the parents can be certified; however if you have sent
in xrays to OFA for preliminary evaluation and they came back as fine,
many breeders consider it safe enough to then breed on the season
closest to the second year, which can wind up being before the bitch
is actually old enough to be certified. (And when the bitch is old
enough, she is, of course, duly certified.) But the preliminary xrays
must be examined by OFA, not by a local veterinarian. There are
many dysplastic dogs out there that had vets look at their xrays and
pronounce them "wonderful."
It's important, however, to keep the frequency of breeding low. Even
at maximum, you want to allow at least one unbred season between
breedings. This allows your bitch to rest and regain her strength. A
bitch that whelps too often will produce weaker puppies more likely to
die, and the repeated pregnancies are pretty rough on her, too.
For dogs, they should definitely have all their certifications
necessary. For many breeds this means that they should be over two
years old. Since a dog can be bred at any time, unlike bitches,
waiting for two years is not a problem, whereas a bitch often has a
season just before two years of age and then has to wait until 2.5 or
three which sometimes presents problems in trying to time her litters.
But this does not apply to a stud dog, so he should definitely have
all of his checks and certifications before being bred. Frequency is
not generally a problem although some dogs have problems with sperm
production if they breed once a day for several days. They need
top-quality feeding and care if they are going to be bred often.
_________________________________________________________________
Care of the Pregnant or Nursing Bitch
You should make sure the bitch is up-to-date on all her vaccinations,
medications, and shots before she is bred. She will require
supplementary food during the last three weeks or so of pregnancy. In
general, puppy food is formulated both for puppies and pregnant or
nursing bitches.
She should be under the care of a vet for any related problems. Dogs
can have miscarriages. Illnesses, diseases, or infestations that the
bitch picks up during her pregnancy can affect the puppies.
Difficulties during whelping are entirely possible, and the rule for
some breeds. You must be prepared to get her to the vet quickly in an
emergency.
There are instances of "mummy puppies" where you have a puppy whose
development went awry, but it was not aborted. Instead, it dries and
shrivels up, and when born, looks like a mummified puppy, blackened
and ready to rot. Overbreeding and inadequate care are usually the
causes. It is quite likely that the dam will come down with an
infected uterus after such a puppy. "Water puppies" are another type
of problem in which the dead puppy appears to have never properly
developed a skeleton and appears to be full of gelatin. This seems to
be linked to a viral exposure.
Other congenital (but not genetic) defects can include: no anus, cleft
palates and hare lips. These conditions require corrective surgery or
the puppy will die.
While the bitch is nursing the puppies, she will require about three
times the amount of food she normally eats! It is also common for
nursing mothers to go out of coat at this time.
_________________________________________________________________
Caring for the Puppies
PREWHELPING PREPARATIONS
You should have a sturdy, clean, proper sized whelping box for the
litter. It MUST include a "pig rail" around the edge to prevent the
bitch from laying on or smashing her pups. It should be big enought to
allow the bitch to turn around but small enough to prevent the pups
from being "lost" in the unused portions. About six inches longer than
she is, fore and aft, when laying prone (as in suckling her puppies)
and about a foot on either side length wise.
To get the whelping box ready for your bitch, get a sheet of plastic,
such as you would use for painting a ceiling to protect the floor. Cut
it up into several pieces the size of the whelping box. Put one piece
of plastic down, several layers of newspaper, another piece of
plastic, more layers of newspaper and so on for four or five layers.
Then when your bitch is whelping puppies, you can roll off a layer
when it gets messy -- and it will! -- and throw it away to instantly
clean the whelping box.
POSTWHELPING
After the puppies are born, there are many strategies for lining the
whelping box. Some people continue to use newspapers, but puppies get
pretty dirty from both newspaper print and feces. Other people have
had success with synthetic materials on top of absorbent materials:
the synthetic material provides secure footing, but the urine and
other liquids pass through it to leave it dry. Other people use pine
shavings (about six inches deep). You will do a lot of laundering to
keep things clean no matter what you use. You will also have to clean
the feces out of the whelping box after your bitch decides that's no
longer her job.
Newborn puppies MUST be kept warm. The temperature in the whelping box
at birth should be 90 F. The temperature can then be decreased 2
degrees every other day. NEVER FEED A CHILLED PUPPY!!! If a puppy
becomes chilled it will cry continually and it will tuck its tail
between its little legs. A healthy, happy, litter will "purr" like a
swarm of bees and when feeding their tails will be straight out from
their bodies. Warm any chilled puppy by putting the puppy under your
shirt and under your armpit. The best method of warming a puppy is to
use a special whelping box heating pad with a towel over it to prevent
soiling the pad. Make sure the temerature does not go too high.
Heating lamps are ok but puppies can become dehydrated. If the litter
clumps together and cries, they are too cold; if they separate and try
to hide under shade, they are too hot.
Large litters will require supplemental feedings if you want all the
puppies to survive. Your bitch may not be able to care for a very
large litter. You will need to get the pups rotating on shifts. For
the first two weeks you may have to supplement as much as every four
hours. Use a good prepared milk-supplement especially formulated for
puppies. If you get in a bind you can use a goat-milk reciepe avilable
in most books about breeding and whelping pups. You may have to tube
feed those pups that will not suckle from a bottle!
Are you going to remove the dewclaws or dock a tail? This must be done
by 3 days old at the latest! Any later will not heal as nicely or
quickly!
If you have a purebred litter, you must record the date of birth and
all of the pups (including the dead ones) in your record book. Then
you will need to fill out and send in your litter registration form.
You want to do this as soon as possible, since many registries can
take up to 6 weeks to return the forms for individual registration to
you (which you will want to give to your puppy buyers later).
You will have to keep the whelping box clean. For the first two weeks
the bitch will keep the pups pretty clean, but the bedding should be
changed twice a day at minimum. Starting week three, the pups start to
eliminate some on their own.. then you will need to clean much more
often!
At four weeks, the pups usually become very active and it this time
may require a larger area then the welping box...you will need a large
ex-pen or some way of confining them safely. You do have a place to
keep them that they are safe in and can't destroy? Puppies at this
stage can devastate a room or garage in hours.
At week five you will probably want to introduce the pups to weaning
food. Usually you will have to mush up the dry puppy food for the pups
to be able to eat it. Use warm water and let the food stand in a bowl
for about 2 hours.
At week six you should vaccination and worm the pups, and have them
checked for heartmurmers, hernias, males for testicles (yes you should
be able to feel them at 6 weeks!), deafness, and eye problems.
You should be socializing now too... And are you going to do any puppy
testing for temperaments? At seven weeks you should be calling up
those poeple with deposits on your pups and getting your paper work
all sorted out. Are your spay/neuter contracts ready? How about
pictures of the pups for your clients?
And this is just if everything goes perfectly! What happens if one of
the pups has a heart murmer, or a hernia? What about a deaf puppy?
What if your whole litter gets parvo or distemper? What happens if one
of the pups is affected with "swimmer-puppy" syndrome? What about
fading-puppy syndrome? What happens if your bitch gets an infection or
mastitis? What if she dies?
PLACING THE PUPPIES
After the puppies are born, if not before, you must consider placing
your puppies. Time and time again, people breed a litter because
friends and family want one of their dog's puppies -- and then none of
them will take one.
At six weeks is when even seasoned breeders wonder why they do this. A
healthy active litter of six will run you ragged at this age. They are
so curious, they want to explore everywhere, and they are at the prime
age for socialization and exposure to many things that you, as a
responsible breeder, want to give them a head start on.
At eight weeks, you may begin placing those pups that are ready to go
to their new homes. Insecure pups may need more time, how are those
puppy tests coming? You can't place puppies earlier than 7.5 weeks or
so (no matter how much you may want to).
Are you prepared to do some legwork to find GOOD homes for them, not
just hand them off to the first person who comes by? You are aware
that you won't always be able to sell all of your puppies locally,
aren't you? What assurances do you have that the puppies will not wind
up filling animal shelters, facing death because their parents were
thoughtlessly bred? Suppose you wind up keeping more of the litter
than you intended to? Suppose some of your puppies are returned? Can
you keep the extra puppies?
_________________________________________________________________
Considerations for Stud Dogs
First, remember that it is extremely difficult to come up with a top
quality stud dog that people want to use. After all, they will look
around and pick out the best male they can find. So your dog has to be
pretty impressive to be noticed in the competition.
Your male should be in top condition. He should be certified clear of
joint problems (and in many cases that means he has to be at least two
years old). His eyes should be checked annually. He should be clear of
any abnormalities common to his breed. No heart problems, no seizures,
no thyroid problems, etc. He should be clear of brucellosis. His
temperament should be good, and appropriate for his breed. If you have
such a dog, you will need to get your dog well known. This generally
involves showing your dog (in show, field, or obedience) and doing
other work with him. An unproven dog (that has no previous puppies or
only puppies too young to evaluate) will command a much lower stud dog
fee than a proven dog (with a record of puppies to examine).
You must be prepared to board the bitch. The common procedure is for
the bitch to be shipped out to stud, so you will need facilities to
board bitches in heat. These facilities should be adequate for up to a
week of boarding and to prevent any mismating. You might wind up with
more than one bitch at a time -- can you board them all safely?
You must monitor the mating and be ready to intervene if necessary.
Some breeds require intervention (such as Basset Hounds). Not all dogs
or bitches understand what to do, especially if it is the first time
for one or the other. It can be disastrous if two dogs are left alone
to mate. Additionally, if the mating doesn't take, are you prepared to
go through the whole thing again the next time the bitch comes into
season? Typical contracts call for free repeat breeding in the case
two or less puppies occur or the breeding doesn't take.
You need to be able to evalate the bitch's pedigree for compatibility
with your dog's. Any good points or bad points of the litter are
(rightly or not) attributed to the sire, so your dog's reputation is
at stake with each litter he sires. You should be reasonably confident
that the proposed breeding will result in good puppies.
If the owner of the bitch is a novice, are you prepared to assist with
advice on whelping and puppy care? These people will expect you to
have the answers. Sometimes entire litters of puppies are dumped on
the stud dog owner when the bitch's owners can no longer cope with
them because they didn't realize what a responsibility caring for a
litter involved. Are you ready to take care of and place your dog's
offspring if this should happen to you?
Are you prepared to deal with cases where you are certain your dog is
not the sire of the puppies but the bitch's owner insists that he is?
Or if the owner of the bitch insists that you must have allowed a
mismating to occur when she was boarded with you? Disputes of this
sort can become very ugly very quickly.
_________________________________________________________________
Genetics
If a purebred dog of breed X mated with a purebred dog of breed Y,
both meeting health standards for their breed, is there a better
chance the offspring would be healthier than a same breed mating
because the gene pool is larger?
In terms of health alone the first answer would be that in breeding
two healthy dogs it shouldn't matter if they're the same of
different breeds, you're apt to get healthy pups. But this doesn't
take into account the question of recessives. Suppose you breed two
dogs of different breeds that both have the same incidence of a
recessive health problem. The pups would have the same odds of
having that health problem as purebred pups of either breed. On the
other hand, suppose the two dogs were of breeds that have no
recessive health problems in common. This would reduce or eliminate
the odds of the puppies of having the health problems of either
breed. This is the classic explanation for the theory of first
generation hybrid vigor. The resulting pups should not be bred
though, since they'd have a good chance of having the recessives
from BOTH breeds, so the grandpups would be inclined to be worse off
than the purebred offspring of their grandparents. Another very
important point to keep in mind is that when a purebred carrying a
genetic defect is crossed with another breed or mixed breed, the
"bad" genes do NOT "go away" even though they may not be expressed
in the offspring. If crossed with another dog carrying the same
defect, the offspring of that breeding will demonstrate the
defect.
Purebred dogs have all these diseases, though! It seems that you
never hear about mixed breed dogs with problems.
Responsible breeders try to identify genetic diseases their dogs
might be carrying and to eliminate them by careful breeding. It is
ironic, though not surprising, that their efforts to identify and
weed out genetic problems have lead some to cry "look at all the
genetic diseases purebred dogs have!" A moment's careful thought
will lead you to the conclusion that mixed breeds carry the same
harmful genes (their parents, or their parents' parents, were
purebreds, after all). The differences are
* with some recessive disorders (though not all genetic defects)
the disease is less likely to be expressed (though it can still
be inherited by offspring)
* you have lesser likelihood of ever identifying or eliminating any
harmful genes your mixed breed may be carrying
Also, if you stop and think about it, many mixed breeds are simply
not tested for most problems. When they get older and limp, it's
just considered old age, although it could well be hip dysplasia.
When they get older and start to go blind, it could be PRA, but the
owners are unlikely to test for this. It's not that owners of mixed
breeds are bad, by any means, but they are not looking for possible
inheritable problems, either.
When you breed two different breeds together, what kind of variation
can you expect?
Pfaffenberger's book has some interesting data on this. He did some
experiments with four different breeds. They were dogs of
approximately the same size, but very different physical appearance
AND behavior. The results he saw in the first and in subsequent
mixed generations are pretty interesting.
Let's look at a common crossbreeding: "cockapoos" (which are not
purebred dogs, nor registered with any registry). These are crosses
between Cocker Spaniels and Minature or Toy Poodles. The dogs
actually vary quite a bit, some being more poodle like than others,
and some being more cocker like than others. However, they are
generally all a small sized, buff colored shaggy dog. If you breed
two cockapoos together (not generally done), you get an even wider
variation of dogs -- some look like Minature Poodles, others like
Cocker Spaniels. The reason for this is the recessive genes hidden
in the first cross that came out in the second generation. This is
actually a visual example of why "hybrid vigor" doesn't hold.
What is outcrossing?
Outcrossing is where the sire and dam are totally unrelated,
preferably for three or four generations. The true form of an
outcross is between two entirely different breeds because in reality
the members of most registered breeds come from a common ancestor
(althought it may be many, many generations back). It is very rare
for outcrossed puppies to be uniform in appearance. Usually there
are a very large ranges of sizes, coats, colors, markings, and other
distinctive characteristics. Outcrossed litters are generally
heterozygous, and do not reliably reproduce themselves, so even the
nicest puppy in the litter may not later produce the best puppies.
Outcrossing is generally used to introduce something new to a line
-- a better head, better colors, better front, etc. Usually the
puppies retained from these breedings are bred back into the
breeder's original line to standardize them back into the line's
general characteristics and reproducibility -- with the one desired
characteristic. The tricky part is that other characteristics may
come along for the ride!
If you are dedicated enough, you can eventually continue breeding by
outcrossing alone (but don't expect instant or quick results). You
should pick dogs that complement eachother well and are similar in
general appearance. This is a long hard road to eventually
developing a line. Through outcrossing, many health problems can
quickly be eliminated (or just as quickly added into your breeding),
but usually you do sacrifice some show quality and producibility.
You have to remember that dogs that appear totally healthy may be
carriers of genetic problems. To find this out, test mating is done
to a dog that is affected with the genetic problem (resulting
usually in puppies that are both affected and non-affected carriers)
or by inbreeding to a related dog that also doesn't show the signs
of being affected (usually littermates are used) this will usually
result in some puppies free of the problem, some puppies as
carriers, and some puppies affected if both dogs carry the problem
gene (this is not as accurate as breeding to an affected dog, but
you are less likely to have to put all the puppies down).
There are variations on outcrossing. A "true" outcross could be a
dog that has totally unrelated dogs bred together throughout the
pedigree. This is very rare. On the other hand, "linecrossing" is a
form of outcrossing where dogs from unrelated lines are bred to
produce a new line. The sire and dam are usually very linebred from
their prospective lines and the resulting puppies are varied in
appreance, some looking like the sire's line and some looking like
the dam's line and some looking like mixtures of both lines.
How about line breeding?
Line breeding is when the sire and the dam are distantly related:
e.g., grandsire to granddaughter, granddam to grandson, second
cousins, half cousins, uncle to niece, aunt to nephew..... The
general strategy is that there is a common ancestor that is being
doubled up on both sides. So the desired dog appears several times
in the pedigree.
This is probably the most common strategy in breeding purebred dogs
(and in developing new breeds, for that matter). Though this method,
new genes are slowly introduced and unwanted genes are slowly
replaced. The actual rate varies by how strongly you line breed. It
sacrifices little overall quality in terms of show quality. Usually
the puppies are rather close in general conformation. The only
problem with this method is that it often takes several generations
to get poor genes out, (or adding desired genes in) resulting in
many puppies that have the same genetic problems (or virtues) that
their parents have. And then because some breeders are more
interested in winning, they do not place the affected puppies on
spay/neuter contracts. This is both a blessing and a curse for the
breed. If the breeder is very careful, affected pups can be used
wisely to prevent loss of quality, but still remove the affected
genes by only breeding the affected pups to known non-carrier
relatives. This way the breeder can again try to "edit out" the bad
genes. It takes longer this way but less show quality is lost in the
process. This process results in dogs that will often reproduce
their same level of quality. This is refered to as reaching
homozygous litters (more genes of the same kind apparent in the
puppies).
Inbreeding and linebreeding really differ only in degree.
Linebreeding is less likely to cause harm than inbreeding.
Inbreeding is not for novices. Knowledge of genetics and the breed
is required for success. For good results it must be well-planned
and breeders must be ready for whatever problems it presents.
And inbreeding?
Inbreeding is where the sire and the dam are closely related: mother
to son, father to daughter, sister to brother, half sister to half
brother, cousin to cousin. People disgree about the exact point at
which inbreeding becomes linebreeding. Inbreeding is the quickest
way to find out what poor genes are in the line and what dominant
characteristics are in the line.
Although many people are disgusted with the idea of this family
incest, it is an extremely useful tool for diagnosing what genes are
present. If the genes for bad eyes are present, but hidden or
resessive, this will bring them out to their full extent. If there
isn't any bad genes, then the puppies will be of very close
uniformity and very able to reproduce themselves (theroretically).
This is a homozygous breeding. The resulting puppies will have a lot
of genetic material that is the same as their parents and
grandparents and will be close genetically to each other.
Inbreeding doesn't introduce new genes and does not eliminate bad
genes that the line already has. It only shifts them around like a
rubix cube. This often results in litters with high show potential,
if the quality was high to begin with. It shows you what recessives
you have lurking in the dogs' backgrounds -- both good and bad.
But there are drawbacks. Besides the possibility of bad recessives,
inbreeding exclusively will eventually lead to infertility. It's
like a xerox machine. After so many copies, you have to renew the
ink. The same with dogs, you have to introduce new genes. No
reputable breeder will use inbreeding exclusively, and many breeders
simply never use it. Usually, you will only find: very experienced
breeders, ignorant breeders, and puppy mills making use of this
technique.
Inbreeding increases the chance that a gene obtained from the sire
will match one obtained from the dam, both stemming from the common
ancestor(s) on which the individual was inbred. Thus, inbreeding
tends to make animals homozygous rather than heterozygous. The
inbreeding coefficient measures the resulting increase in
homozygousity. All breeds have a given degree of homozygosity the
mating of two dogs from the same breed would not produce a
recognizable specimen of the breed!
Inbreeding increases homozygosity and decrease heterozygosity. So it
can duplicate both desirable and harmful alleles, both of which can
be unsuspected in the line, and may appear. Inbreeding does NOT
create anomalies, it brings present anomalies to the surface. Even
when the anomalies are present, inbreeding might not reveal them.
However, once revealed, then the breeder can do something about them
in the next generations of breeding.
An increase in harmful recessives is undesirable but it is not a
major drawback if they are identified early. The effect of
inbreeding on major polygenic traits is greater. Generally, traits
that are highly inherited (ie largely additively controlled) are not
adversely affected by inbreeding but, traits under non-additive
control, especially those tied to dominance and thus not of high
heritability, are often markedly harmed by inbreeding.
OK, how do pedigrees figure into this?
Remember that it is difficult to spot unaffected carriers. When an
affected dog shows up, its pedigree is often examined for likely
carriers. For example, PRA is a common problem in many breeds. There
are dogs that come down with PRA that have a certain ancestor in
common. That ancestor may then be considered a possible carrier and
line breeding on him is avoided. This is a simplistic picture,
obviously, since it's possible for an unaffected non-carrier of PRA
to come from an unaffected carrier that came from an affected dog
(therefore the affected dog is in the unaffected dog's pedigree). If
a general blood test is ever developed that shows the presence of
the recessive in an unaffected dog, then much more accurate
breedings may be done; currently this is only possible for Irish
Setters.
There is rarely only a single problem a breeder is trying to screen
for. Suppose a suspected carrier of PRA is known for producing
excellent hips. A breeder might therefore introduce that bloodline
into theirs for the hips, and be willing to have the possibility of
PRA show up in the line. In screening out one problem you might have
to accept the possibility of another appearing.
Examining the pedigrees also lets you know what percent of ancestry
the dogs share (since the relationships are often much more complex
than simply cousins or aunt/uncle, the degree of common ancestry is
often given as a percentage instead) and decide whether or not it's
acceptable given your current goals.
What are like-to-like matings and compensatory matings?
Like to like mating implies the best to the best and the worst to
the worst where the worst is not used at all. For most breeders,
like to like matings are between dogs which resemble each other
greatly and so similar type dogs are bred. These dogs may or may not
be closely related.
The pups resemble their parents because of the genes in common with
them. If those parents resembled each other their progeny would be
even more like their parents. This tends to make the population look
more uniform, however there is little increase in prepotency from
this technique.
Compensatory Mating: This unlike to unlike mating is used by
breeders to correct for a defect in an animal by mating it to
another animal that might correct for the defect. The system is
basically simple but the breeder must identify faults and virtues
and it requires breed knowledge. The pedigrees of both dogs should
be examined carfully to try to identify the ways in which the dogs
differ and what the expected outcomes could be. A correct dog and
not one who errs in the opposite direction is required. That is, if
you want to improve structure, look for a dog with correct structure
and not an overbuilt dog. This technique often results in only one
or two pups with the combination desired.
But this is all very vague and complicated!
Yes, it is. There are no easy answers, and there are different
things to consider in every breed. This uncertainty with respect to
genetic inheritance is exactly the reason that breeding is so
difficult to do right. It helps immensely to have a "mentor",
someone who is familiar not only with the breeds, but the lines your
dog belongs to -- advice from such a knowledgeable person is often
extremely valuable.
If we knew everything about genetics, we wouldn't have problems
with our dogs any more. We'd eliminate Hip Dysplasia, PRA, heart
problems, thyroid problems, seizures, etc. within a few generations
if we knew everything. Unfortunately it's an art that few people are
actually very good at.
_________________________________________________________________
References
"So you want to use your Dog At Stud?" From the Literary Spot, the
newsletter of the Central MD Dalmation Club 12/89 via Retriever
Believer, the newsletter of the Labrador Retriever Club of Southern
California 8/91.
Tucker, Kathy. "Why are you Breeding?", printed in various
newsletters.
Whitney, Leon E (DVM). How to Breed Dogs 384 pg. Many case studies
on breeds, breed crosses for dominance studies, Myths and fallacies
about breeding dogs, inheritance of traits (such as temperament,
health, intelligence, and abilities).
Wilcox, Bonnie (DVM). "Things to Think about Before Breeding Your
Dog." DVM, printed in various newsletters.
Willis, Malcolm B. Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders. Howell,
1992. 228 pgs with appendix for calculations -- several graphs,
charts, and pictures.
Willis, Malcolm B. Genetics of the Dog. 417 pgs with breed specific
information on many breeds -- plus several charts and graphs.
_________________________________________________________________
Breeding Your Dog FAQ
Janice Ritter
Version: 2.10
Last-modified: July, 1995
Current-edition: August, 1995
This is the Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 1 of 2. It is arranged
in alphabetical order by breed from Affenpinscher to Great Pyrenees,
and then Greyhound to Yorkshire Terriers. All-breed and speciality group
rescues are listed at the end of the 2nd file. These FAQs will be
posted on a regular basis and/or you can obtain the file via
anonymous ftp at rtfm.mit.edu under
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1. Or send email to
mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
in the body of the message leaving the subject line blank.
This is the 12th update of the canine rescue organizations list. Breed
specific organizations are listed first and all-breed and specialty
organizations are at the end. All the lines that are preceeded with
a "||" are the ones containing either new information or important
corrections with respect to version 2.9. All the rec.pets.dogs.info
FAQ's are also mirrored at nowaksg.chem.nd.edu and can be found in the
/pub/dogs-faq directory via anonymous ftp.
Check out rec.pets.dogs.rescue for current discussions on rescue
and for dogs in need of rescue.
THANKS TO THOSE WHO DESERVE IT:
Susan Mudgett and Eric Johansson have been keeping a list of
New England Rescue Organizations for quite some time. They
graciously sent a hard copy of their list so that we could include
all of those addresses and phone numbers in this listing. If you wish
to contact them directly concerning the New England area specifically,
they have listed their phone number in their own CRL (canine rescue list):
508-667-0137, or send email at s...@harvee.billerica.ma.us. Many
thanks to Susan and Eric.
Secondly, Marget Johnson sent us so much stuff she had to include
extra postage on the envelope. Most of the information Marget
provided us has been submitted to various dog related journals so
this information may be available in your local library as well.
Many thanks to Marget too.
Thirdly, Colleen Englemann sent a listing of rescue organizations
from the "Bay Area". This means the San Francisco Bay area, so
if you live near there these listings are for you. The text "baylist"
is added by these because many of them are just phone numbers without
the name of the person. This doesn't mean you shouldn't call, we
just don't know what the name of the person you will talk to is.
If you do call and get a name, let me know so I can include it here.
Cindy Tittle Moore (those of you who read r.p.d.* regularly
know her well) has been of great help both at the beginning and the
end of this project. Her expertise in FAQ's for rec.pets.dogs.* is
greatly appreciated.
Dominique Anfossi has provided all the Canadian information so thanks to
him.
This list is for the dogs, literally :-) All of the poor animals that
have been abandoned for whatever reasons. So many of you are caring
people and take these dogs in and care for them until they can find kind
caring homes where they really belong. I hope a few dogs can find
homes through our meager efforts.
DISCLAIMER:
I have no experience with any of these groups. We simply wanted to make
this list available to you. So, we must say that we are not specifically
endorsing any of these people/groups but we are endorsing the idea of
rescuing a dog for a pet.
If I receive 2 complaints about a group not responding in a timely
fashion, or not treating a dog well, etc., I'll warn the group that
there seem to be problems and I'll get the other side of the story. If
I subsequently receive another complaint, I'll remove the group/
person from the list. (Sorry it comes to this sometimes.)
There is a book published with a thorough listing of breed rescue
organizations available. Here is the citation:
Project BREED
(Breed Rescue Efforts & Education)
Published by: Network for Ani-males & Females, Inc.
Germantown, MD 20874
(301) 428-3675
(up-to-date volumes have been published, too)
If you need more information, a more complete listing, or other
information about rescue, I am told it is all in there.
TAKING AT LEAST A LITTLE RESPONSIBILITY :-) :
All complaints and errors should be brought to my immediate attention.
I will have to depend on those in netland to keep me up to date.
Who should be listed in this FAQ:
--------------------------------
Only those people and groups who are directly involved in *rescue*
activities should be listed here. Breeders, please don't list yourselves
as rescue contacts in the Rescue FAQs as a way to find potential
adoptees for your returned and/or adult dogs from your breedings.
You have the resources to network and find good homes for your dogs.
These FAQs are for groups and individuals who help those dogs that
need *rescueing*.
If you notice I have left out someone in your favorite breed then
please tell me. If I have included someone that no longer serves in
this capacity, tell me so I can delete them from the list. Otherwise
keep this packed away in your files somewhere and pull it out when
someone asks you about getting a new dog. Rescues can be such good
pets for many people, so don't automatically assume everyone needs
a puppy. (You may find the best puppy here as well!)
Sincerely,
Janice Ritter
rit...@ileaf.com
Ph: 617-290-0710 (days, during the week)
___________________________________________________________________
Rescue FAQ File 1 includes: Affenpinscher to Great Pyrenees.
(All-breed, or specialty group/area rescues are listed at the end of
FAQ file2.)
Affenpinscher
Affenpinscher Club of America
Nancy Holmes
51 Weare Rd.
New Boston, NH 03070
603-487-2156
Afghan Hound
Afghan Hound Club of America, Inc.
Judith S. Fellton, chairperson
219 Johnson Ferry Rd.
Marietta, GA 30068
404-971-1533
notes: Information and guidelines available. Nationwide
coordination. Club will furnish financial assistance for
spay, neuter and health check.
Afghan Hound Rescue of Southern California
Andrea Augustine
8567 Holloway Drive #1
West Hollywood, CA 90069
310-657-8237
baylist: 415-924-7020
Nutmeg Afghan Hound Club/Afghan Hound Resuce of NE
Adoption, Rescue, Referral and Placment (New England)
Amy Peake (413) 268-9418
or
Leslie Nelson (203) 875-7526
Claudia Edgell
617-729-2153 (MA)
Afghan Hound Club of Northern New Jersey Rescue
Bob and Nancy Check
RD 2, 999 Walcutt
Basking Ridge, NJ 07920
Delores A. Masker
15 Cedar Street
Lincoln Park, NJ 07035
Afghan Hound Association of Long Island
Pat Marinaccio
43 Chapel Hill Drive, N.
Brentwood, NY 11717
516-231-6457
Lucy Orlowski
|| OH
614-369-4080
Afghan Hound Club of Oklahoma City
Shari Mason
122 Richard Terrace
Mustang, OK 73064
405-376-2929
Richmond Afghan Hound Club
Holly Jorgensen
Rt. 1, Box 235D
Bealeton, VA 22712
703-439-2239
Afghan Hound Rescue
Adoption, rescue, referral service and placement
Nancy (908) 658-3786
Airedale Terrier
Airedale Terrier Club of America Rescue Committee
Mrs. Joey Fineran, chairman
|| 610-294-8028 (PA)
June Dutcher, co-chairman
714-827-8013 (CA)
notes: contact either for reference to rescue persons
in all areas
or
(in New England)
Phyllis Beecroft
203-431-6722 (CT)
California Airedale Terrier Club
Liz Younger
4705 Mayfield Dr.
Fremont, CA 94536
415-795-6870
Southern California Airedale Association
Ruth Millington
7895 Dusty Lane
Somis, CA 93066
805-987-2277
Airedale Terrier Club of Metropolitan Washington, DC
Lou Swafford
13108 Greenmount Ave.
Beltsville, MD 20705
301-572-7116
Airedale Terrier Club of New England
Judi Foote
681 Congress St.
Duxbury, MA 02332
617-837-2454
or
Regina Foley
MA
617-329-9751
Marlene Kotchey
MI
313-485-8098
Airedale Rescue & Adoption Service
Candy Kramlich (NY)
914-686-9217 (7:30 - 11p.m. on weekdays or anytime weekends)
or
Karen Stefkovich or Dave Pasake
201-827-7022 (NJ)
This group requires: all family members must want the dog;
no outside only dogs, i.e. must have run of the house;
must have fence, unless you live in an apartment
renters must have landlord permission (an excellent idea!)
Airedale Terrier Club of Metropolitan New York
Linda Handford
Box 441
Wurtsboro, NY 12790
914-888-4944
Airedale Terrier Club of Greater Philadelphia
Ben McCarthy
1737 Division Highway
Narvon, PA 17555
717-354-7646
717-656-9391
Airedale Terrier Club of America Rescue & Adoption Committee
Lynne Jensen
1180 Hopewell Road
Downington, PA 19335
Wisconsin Airedale Terrier Club
Myrtle Huffer
2863 N. Humblodt Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53212
414-562-4299
Akbash
Akbash Dog International Rescue Service
Deborah Dowling
749 Waasis Rd
Oromocto NB E2V 2N4
Akbash Dogs International
David Sims
R.R.3, Union Road
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island
C1A 7J7 Canada
home - 902-672-3036 work 902-566-0812
fax - 902-566-0958
e-mail - si...@upei.ca
happy to act as an e-mail go-between for Maremma, Great Pyrenees,
Komondorok, Shar Planinetz, Tibetan Mastiff, Anatolian Shepherd
Dogs, Karabash and Kuvasz.
Akita
Akita Club of America
Rescue Chair
|| Margie Rutbell
|| Pennsylvania
|| 215-297-5970
CA Bay Area list: 415-756-5590
Akita Rescue Society of America (ARSA) (note additional
SOCAL(parent chapter, southern Cal.) chapters below)
Mrs. Barbara Bouyet
237 Venus Street
Thousand Oaks, CA 91360
805-492-2127
or
Larry Gaiefsky
714-980-6280
or
Kay Lee
909-986-5795
ARSA provides breed information to prospective owners.
Members are available for consultation and evaluation. We take
in homeless Akitas, have them Vet checked, up-to-date on shots,
spayed/neutered and heartworm/fecal checked. Prospective
homes are screened and references are required. Adopters must
sign an Adoption Contract and pay an Adoption Fee.
Akita Rescue Society of America (ARSA) CENTRAL
Mid-West region
Mrs. Myrna Pearce
HCR 1, Box 820
Reeds Spring, MO 65737
417-272-3476
ARSA-MAC North
Mid-Atlantic North (NY Metro Area, central NJ)
|| Anybody have any info on this chapter?
ARSA-MAC South
(Mid-Atlantic region inc. Delaware, MD, and VA)
Mrs. Puller Lanigan
4501 Bennion Rd.
Wheaton, MD 20906
301-946-3779
or
703-524-9163
ARSA-FLORIDA
Mrs. Dori Sparkman
1530 Parkwood Street
Jacksonville, FL 32207
904-399-8942
Sophia Kaluzniacki
AZ
602-625-8634
Gwen Walko
AZ
602-582-6354
Greater Baltimore Akita Club
Barbara Davis
908 Rolandvue Rd.
Ruxton, MD 21204
301-823-6939
Newton Kennel Club (Akitas)
Tom and Beverly Bonadonna
RD 3, Box 1
Branchville, NJ 07826
201-948-4551
Delaware Valley Akita Rescue
Kathy DeWees
NJ
609-859-3125
Judy Furlong
OH
419-474-7006
Akita Rescue of Canada (AROC)
Akita and Shiba Inu
Steve Watson or Maureen Stapleton
RR 2 Stayner
ON LOM 1SO
Steve: 705-428-3039 Maureen: 416-899-3370
Alaskan Malamute
Alaskan Malamute Club of America
Virginia DeVaney
P.O. Box 170
Cedar Crest, NM 87008
505-281-3961
Alaskan Malamute Rescue of California
Wendy Corr
415-538-1529 (CA)
or
Tina Dunn, rescue coordinator
5040 Barnard Street
Simi Valley, CA 93063
805-583-8280
or
Valerie White
805-526-0165 (CA)
notes: "We rescue and house, abused, unwanted or abandoned
Alaskan Malamutes. All of our rescued Malamutes are spayed
or neutered, health checked, vaccinated and temperament
tested before they are relocated in suitable, adoptive
homes. Donations greatly appreciated.
baylist: Andy Gach
1621 Christina Dr.
Las Altos, CA 94022
Alaskan Malamute Protection League
P.O. Box 170
Cedar Crest, NM 87008
505-281-3961
notes: This organization is a National Information
Network servicing individuals and Rescue Organizations working
for the Alaskan Malamute. State coordinators
provide information from and to a National file.
|| Malamute Rescue
|| Linda Smith
|| 4545 Township Rd #77
|| Mt. Gilead, OH 43338-9724
|| (419) 947-7948
Alaskan Malamute Protection League
You can call any of the following:
Jan Smith
203-649-0079
Connecticut
or
Theresa Hawley
508-667-6008 (MA)
or
Susan Conant
617-965-5542 (MA)
or
Patrick Smith
413-848-2121
Western Massachusetts
or
Sally Boggs
207-647-5707
Maine
or
Joan Bastura
802-722-9759
Vermont
Alaskan Malamute Club of Greater Houston
Holly Mason
16103 Sealiner
Houston, TX 77062
713-480-6203
American Eskimo
American Eskimo
Libby McGreevy
San Bruno, CA (Northern California)
415/952-1765
li...@ucsfvm.ucsf.edu
Debbie Ritchie
413-862-3329
Western Massachusetts
American Staffordshire Terrier
Staffordshire Terrier of America
Melanie Tierney
NY
315-422-9613
ASAP National Rescue Program for the APBT
and American Staffordshire Terrier
Sara Quinn
RR2 Box 1427
Hinesburg, VT 05461
(802) 482-3869
or
CT
203-753-3880
or
MA
508-867-7197
or
MI
517-548-2834
American Pit Bull Terrier
ASAP National Rescue Program for the APBT (not governed by NAPBTA)
and American Staffordshire Terrier
Sara Quinn
RR2 Box 1427
Hinesburg, VT 05461
(802) 482-3869
or
CT
203-753-3880
or
MA
508-867-7197
or
MI
517-548-2834
Pits for People
Sharon Veci
203-742-9364 (CT)
Jean Balsam
NJ
201-746-5587
American Water Spaniel
The American Water Spaniel Field Association of America
Breed Rescue Chairperson: Lynn Morrison
P.O. BOX 160
Union Lake, MI 48387-0160
(810)-363-0858 or (810)-674-9336
American Water Spaniel Club
Sharon Beaupre
WS
715-878-4549
Argentine Dogo
Argentine Dogo Club of America
Gabriel Moyette
BOx 234 Blueberry Hill Rd.
West Shokan, NY 12494
914-657-8370
notes: "...offers a nationwide rescue for unwanted and
abandoned DOGOS. Note that these dogs are turned in under
a variety of names including Dogo Argentino, Argentine
Mastiff, Argentine Bulldog and even occasionally as a large
white 'Pit Bull'. The Club has kennel space in most areas
of the country. If there is no one in the area, we will
air ship to a volunteer facility. Rescued Dogos are
neutered, temperament tested and placed in loving homes."
Australian Cattle Dog
Australian Cattle Dog Club of America
Rescue Chair
Valerie Eltzroth
IL
815-455-5296
or
John Kurpas
19975 Concord
Detroit, MI, 48234
313-366-0537
or
Judith Ransom
P.O. Box 594
Lithia Springs, GA 30057
404-944-7562
|| Bill & Sue Cogger
|| MD
|| 301-627-6358
Karl Henning and Julie Bender
ACD Rescue of Michigan
4221 Burtch Road
Grass Lake MI 49240
hen...@pms923.pms.ford.com
Australian Kelpie
Jo Ann Weller
303-659-6832 (CO)
Jan Wesen
206-766-6808 (WA)
Australian Shepherd
Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA)
Aussie Rescue and Placement Program
1-800-892-ASCA (2722)
in New England, call
Peter Kontos
413-467-9812 after 1:30 pm. EST
Kathy McDonald
305-373-1908 (FL)
Mary Cummings
607-729-2718 (NY area)
(Also does GSD rescue work)
Carolina Australian Shepherd Club
Aussie Rescue Group
Kathleen Cole
803-556-2338 (SC)
or
Melanie Schlaginhaufen
910-643-1615 (919?)
Australian Terrier
Australian Terrier Club of America
Barbera Curtis
939 Lochness Court
Ft. Collins, CO 80524
303-482-9163
Debra Austin
716-763-1536
NY
Margaret Reignier
414-468-1796 (WI)
Basenji
Basenji Club of America
Rescue Chair
Judith Holiday
CO
303-795-5382
Basenji Club of Northern California
Margaret Hoff
191 Butterfield Rd.
San Anselmo, CA 94960
415-453-2510
baylist: Margaret Hoff
191 Butterfield Rd.
San Anselmo, CA 94960
Basenji Rescue, Northern CA
Arnold Lipp
805-274-8820
or
Karen Jones
818-761-7668
or
Dave Caslin
909-823-5821
Iris Craven
301-875-2449
MD
Cathy Cant
301-627-3123
Maryland
Bay State Basenji Club
Jennifer and Fred Sienko
603-942-7667 (NH)
email fsi...@ede.sanders.lockheed.com
or
508-458-8108 (MA)
or
413-532-4526 (MA)
Karen Butler
313-669-5943 (MI)
Jennifer Hampton
313-475-8825 (MI)
Delaware Valley Basenji Club
Mark Baime
908-580-9212
New Jersey
Maureen Koplow
NJ
609-853-1847
Dallas-Ft. Worth Basenji Club
Linda Coker
321 Birchwood Dr.
Garland, TX 75043
214-681-7129
Nancy Sullivan
703-830-2710
Virginia
Basenji Club of Southeastern Wisconsin
Pat Wand
3636 N. 100th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53222
414-466-6478
Basset Hound
Basset Hound Club of America (BHCA) Rescue
Rescue Chair
Libby Sallada (Denver CO area)
303-798-0942
or
Colleen Clement
203-653-0104 (CT)
Northern California Basset Hound Club
Ruth Wilcox
510-562-1906 (CA)
High Country Basset Rescue and Adoption (Denver Metro Area)
Bill Nail
Denver, CO area
303-364-1877
Carol Makowski
Bristlecone Basset Hounds
303/665-9007 (CO)
mako...@rap.ucar.edu
Nutmeg Basset Hound Rescue
Marilyn
203-434-2767 (CT)
Basset Rescue
Tish Lee
904-264-4020 (FL)
Nancy Bresler
407-727-7292 (FL)
|| Michigan Basset Rescue Group
|| MI
|| (313)623-1698 or 681-1617,
|| or 738-5493 or 363-1896
Basset Hound Rescue League
Arlene Kahn
P.O. Box 44201
Fort Washington MD 20744
Covers Washington, DC, Maryland, Virginia, Southern PA,
West Virginia, and some North Carolina
301-292-3020 or 703-281-1035
also
June Gravitte 301-805-9321
Pilgram Basset Hound Club
Karen Caron
603-434-0886 (NH)
Tri-State Basset Hound Rescue League
(was Berkshire Valley Basset Hound Club)
Barbara Wicklund
1737 Route 206
Skillman, NJ 08558 (NJ, Southern PA)
908-874-0508
Kathy Karppinen
2080 SW 187th
Aloha, OR 97006
503-642-1519
Kris Pellom
801-566-5590 (UT)
Jerry & Alice Hampton
VA
804-332-7744
Badgerland Basset Hound Club
Jane Baetz, Rescue Chairperson
2175 Hwy. Y
West Bend, WI 53094
414-375-2522
Basset Hound Rescue
Phyllis Stapells
St. John's Sideroad
RR 3 Stouffville
ON L4A 7X4
416-640-3819
Basset Hound Club of B.C.
Miss Anna Phillips, President
17 James St.
Strathroy, ON N7G 1S6
(519) 245-1358
Beagle
Blossom Valley Beagle Club
Mary Powell & Trudi Reveira
1015 Reed Ave.
Sunnyvale, CA 94086
408-244-1840
baylist: 408-244-1848
Dotty Ambrose
818-347-5529 (CA)
or
Andre & Esther Tomatis
909-822-5050 (CA)
or
Bill & Janet Nieland
714-826-0928 (CA)
|| Sandi O'Day
|| CA (northern)
|| 707-255-6379
|| Mary Powell & Trudi Reveira
|| CA (northern)
|| 408-244-1840
Beagle Rescue
Sylvia Rushforth
CO
(303) 795 - 2837
Bonnie Granger
410-758-6620 (MD)
|| (anybody have an updated phone number?)
Caroline
508-670-2374 (MA)
SOS Beagle Rescue
Linda Forrest
1286 Smithville Road
Bordentown, NJ 08505
609-267-5157
"Purebred Beagles for adoption. Vet checked, loving compainions
and adoption application required."
|| Columbia-Willamette Beagle Club
|| Christy Parrish, Rescue Coordinator
|| Portland, OR
|| (503) 788-0182
|| Covers the Oregon west coast (west of the Cascades)
|| to southwest Washington state.
Mandy Cronin
804-929-4454 (VA)
Bearded Collie
Bearded Collie Club of America
Barbara Marshall (past chair?)
617-275-0637
or
Paul Glatzer
10 Eden Drive
Smithtown, NY 11787
516-724-0871
or
Chantal Bailey
771 SW 121 St.
Davie, FL 33325
305-475-0095
Mark Ropersburg
882-4773 (anybody know the area code/area of this person?)
baylist: Ann Angevin Allen
87 Claire Way
Tiburon, CA 94920
Beauceron
Beauceron Club of America (BCA)
Nancy McDowell - Chair, Beauceron Rescue for North America
PO Box 30082
Eugene, OR 97403
phone: 503-485-1545
e-mail contact: Lori_...@ccmail.uoregon.edu
North Am. Beauceron Club
106 Halteman Rd
Pottstown, PA 19464
Breed info and rescue
Susan Bulanda
215-323-8022
Pennsylvania
Claudia Batson
804-293-4037
Virginia
Bedlington Terriers
Bedlington Terrier Club of America
Linda Jones
FL
813-388-3315
or
Judy Barton (Monte)
806 Oregon St.
Bakersfield, CA 93305
805-322-4542
805-324-1074
Belgian Laekenois
LAEKENOIS CLUB:
Randie Meyer
Vice-President, Laekenois Club; Member UBSDA, ABTC
3 Mayhew Lane
Amherst NH 03031
email rme...@gadzuk.enet.dec.com
(603) 672-8378
See Alicia Marcinczyk under Belgian Tervuren.
She accepts infos on Belgian Sheepdogs,
Belgian Malinois, and Belgian Laekenois and Tervs.
BELGIAN SHEEPDOG CLUB OF CANADA
Shauna Attewell
President, BSCC-NAS
11303 - 136 Avenue
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada T5E 1X2
email s_att...@biomira.com
(403) 475-4826
Belgian Malinois
American Belgian Malinois Club
EAST: Kathleen Adams
Rescue Committee, ABMC (East)
368 Kurzon Road
West Islip NY 11795-2814
email kath...@aol.com
or
WEST: Allyson Olson
Box 95
Marysvale, UT 84750
801-326-4243
or
Angela Eaton
Pet Shops Contact, ABMC
PO Box 855
Louisville CO 80027
(303) 499-0374
or
|| Tina Fields
|| IL
|| 708-773-3594
or
|| Diane Muzzey
|| IL
|| 708-924-5728
United Belgian Shepherd Dog Association
Susan Morian
207-832-7025 (ME)
or
Kathleen Hagerty
603-654-2504 (NH)
BELGIAN SHEEPDOG CLUB OF CANADA
See Shauna Attewell under Belgian Sheepdogs
baylist: 408-946-2136 or 415-365-5613
Also see Alicia Marcinczyk under Belgian Tervuren.
She accepts infos on Belgian Sheepdogs,
Belgian Malinois, and Belgian Laekenois and Tervs.
Belgian Sheepdog
Belgian Sheepdog Club of America
Kathy Ellis, Rescue Chair
3103 Offutt Road
Randallstown MD 21133
(410) 655-3812
(Call for local references for adopting a dog.)
United Belgian Shepherd Dog Club
c/o (the chairperson is moving - I will
Randie Meyer update when she's available again)
3 Mayhew Lane
Amherst, NH 03031-2032
603-673-6245
or
Susan Morian
207-832-7025 (ME)
Barb Vaneseltine
619-327-9038 (CA)
Sharon Roundy
708-343-3358 (IL)
Greater Chicago Belgian Sheepdog Club
Kathy Champine
cham...@cs.uwp.edu
Marilyn Russell
207-848-5613
Maine
Patricai Barrett
603-848-5613 (NH)
Phyllis Davis
2530 Harbison Rd.
Cedarville, OH 45314
(513) 766-2654
Kathy Greenwood
1304 Glen Oaks Ct.
Norman, Ok 73071
(405) 366-7473
(ka...@aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu)
Janet Bennett
P.O. Box 1046
Culpeper, VA 22701
703-547-3252
See Alicia Marcinczyk under Belgian Tervuren.
She accepts infos on Belgian Sheepdogs,
Belgian Malinois, and Belgian Laekenois and Tervs.
BELGIAN SHEEPDOG CLUB OF CANADA
Shauna Attewell
President, BSCC-NAS
11303 - 136 Avenue
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada T5E 1X2
email s_att...@biomira.com
(403) 475-4826
(Call for local references)
Belgian Tervuren
American Belgian Tervuren Club
Miki Baiocchi
107 East 2nd
Georgetown, TX 78626-5013
512-863-9251
512-869-3539 (work)
or
Cindy Simonsen
W359 S2546 Highway 67
Elkhorn, WI 53121
414-642-2286
Barb Vaneseltine
619-327-9038 (CA)
Northern California Redwood Empire BT Fanciers
Derede Arthur and Rob Michalski
Internet: dlar...@leland.stanford.edu
or rmmc...@leland.stanford.edu
Manely Tervuren Belgian Club
Alicia Marcinczyk, Rescue Chair (Northeast States)
Box 736 RFD #1
Cornish, ME 04020
207-637-2588
Also accepts infos on Belgian Sheepdogs,
Belgian Malinois, and Belgian Laekenois
Acadia BSD Club (UBSDA) and
Mainely Tervuren Belgian Club (ABTC)
Sue Morian
207-832-7025 (ME)
or
JoAnne LaFear
445-4415 (ME)
Berkshire Belgian Tervuren Club
Don McManus
413-467-9881
Western Massachusetts
or
Paula Eldridge
603-437-6231
New Hampshire
Bernese Mountain Dog
Bernese Mountain Dog Club of America
National Rescue Chair
Beth Friichtenicht
309-596-2633 (IL)
Gisela Liden
548 W. State Ave.
Phoenix, Az. 85021
(602) 943-4341
Bernese Mountain Dog Club of Nashoba Valley
Carol Holden
345 Masspoag Ave
Sharon, MA 02067
617-784-6826
or
Paul Emerson
508-448-3183 (MA)
North Start States Bernese Mountain Dog Club
Jenny Pavlovic, Rescue Chair
5381 St. Croix Trail S.
Afton, MN 55001
612-426-6164
pav1...@gold.tc.umn.edu
Bernese Mountain Dog Club of Watchung
Lillian Ostermiller
P.O. Box 54
Flemington, NJ 08822
(need a phone number update!)
North Coast BMDC of Ohio, Inc.
Rescue Committee
Sue Sanvido, Chairperson
(216) 235-3686
27170 Bagley Road
Olmsted Twnship, OH 44138
or
Jill Pappenhagen
Internet: j...@cwru.edu
Bichon Frise
Bichon Frise Club of America
Laura Fox-Meachen
WS
414-878-2880
or
BFC of America Rescue Effort
414-878-4446
Bichon Frise Club of San Diego
Betty Ribble
13035 Via Caballo Rojo
San Diego, CA 92129
619-556-6578
Bichon Frise Club of Southern New England
Irene Libby
203-763-0547
Connecticut
Bichon Frise Rescue
Shirley
301-990-0491 (MD)
or
Phyllis
703-670-3111
Bichon Frise Club of Northern New Jersey
Anne Baird
25 Hayes Avenue
Millville, NJ 08332
609-327-2544
Marion Bartley & Lynn Sciarrone
908-722-4505 (NJ)
Greater New York Bichon Frise Fanciers
Eleanor Grossick
41 Audrey Ave.
Elmont, NY
516-561-9147
National Bichon Frise Rescue Trust
Nancy McDonald
14303 Spring Maple Lane
Houston, TX 77063
Bichon Frise Club of Greater Houston
Carolyn Messner
10702 Burgonyne Rd.
Houston, TX 77042
Bichon Frise Club of Canada
Norma Dirszworsky, Secretary
12 Mill Pond Lane
Udora, ON L0C 1L0
(705) 228-1148
Black and Tan Coonhound
American Black and Tan Coonhound Club
Victoria Blackburn
708-931-7657 (IL)
See also Coonhound rescue in Rescue FAQ file2.
Bloodhound
American Bloodhound Club
Ed Kilby
FL
904-788-0137
or
Susan La Croix Hamil
20372 Laguna Canyon Rd.
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
714-494-1076
714-494-9506
or
Gina Lyn Hayes
508-693-7299 (MA)
Bloodhounds West Breed Rescue
20372 Laguna Canyon Road
Laguna Beach, CA 92651
(714) 494-9506
Border Collie
The North American Border Collie Rescue Network:
Nancy Starkey in Maryland (301-253-4732)
or
Carole Presberg, NABCRN (607-659-5868)
Box 843, Ithaca, NY 14851
(send a long SASE for information and rescue list)
Loretta Madduz
510-236-7711 (CA)
Pat Cook
510-886-8147 (CA)
Debbie Proctor
415-381-9641 (CA)
Susan Wilson
408-998-1714 (CA)
Nancy Broderick
708-841-8344 (IL)
Nancy Hayes
508-478-3277 (referrrals only, MA)
Linda
705 Logan
Helena, MT 59601
(406)443-1380
email: run...@aol.com
Janet Larson
603-868-5313 (NH)
|| North American Border Collie Rescue Network
|| NY Hotline
|| 315-597-3669
|| Elsa Gibson
|| NJ
|| 201-783-4192
|| Susan Bulanda
|| PA
|| 610-323-8022
|| Border Collie Rescue
|| Debbie Sutton
|| WA
|| 206-858-2893
Kathy Kemper
Internet: kke...@metronet.com
Millissa DeMille
Internet: mell...@mendel.berkeley.edu
Border Terrier
Border Terrier Club of America
JoEllen Wolf
GA
706-863-0951
baylist: Jim Kane
5509 Blank Rd.
Sebastapol, CA 95472
North American Border Terrier Welfare
Robert Cowell
203-334-3025
Connecticut
or
Kate Murphy
508-372-1775 (MA)
or
Jenny Chambers
802-253-4789
or
Pam & Chris Dyer (coordinators)
3685 Montee 4eme Rang
Ste-Marie-Madeleine, QUE JOH 1SO
514-584-3951
Area Reps:
Quebec: Jocelyne Tasse-Durosher 514-641-0941
Ontario: Marnie Fielding 613-825-0722
Alberta: June Smith 403-283-1364
Borzoi
Borzoi Club of America
Barbara Skinner, rescue chair
908-859-4554 (NJ)
Borzoi Club of California
Margaret Jemison
(Orange Cty.)
6292 Shayne Dr.
Huntington Beach, CA 92647
714-846-4192
or
Judith Lofgren (L.A.)
213-540-9695
Borzoi Rescue of Northern California
Jacquieline Gregory
P.O. Box 733
Somerset, CA 95684
209-245-6994
baylist: Jacqueline Gregory
PO Box 773
2200 Wolfhound Rd.
Somerset, CA 95648
Ted Turchin
603-964-8514
New Hampshire
(also other sighthounds)
Scott Ekblad
P.O. Box 112
Beavercreek, OR 97004-0112
Ofc (503) 494-5227
Home (503) 632-8569
Borzoi Club of Delaware Valley
Debbie Carcillo
1407 Rising Sun Ave.
Parkland, PA 19047
215-757-2487
Puget Sound Borzoi Club
Lita Bond
13106 SE 304th
Auburn, WA 98002
206-833-5876
Susan Caulkins
515-842-7333
Boston Terrier
Boston Terrier Club of America
|| Rescue Hotline:
|| 1-800-578-5088
Rescue Chair:
Ellen Dresselhuis
Minnesota
612-537-6474
Call for local referrals, too.
baylist: Nancy Ford
10520 Baywood Ct.
Cupertino, CA 95014
408-252-0598
New England Boston Terrier Rescue Referral
Betty Foerster
617-323-7966 (MA)
or
Alice Krawczyk
401-245-6308
Rhode Island
or
Mary Wolhmar
603-435-8727 (NH)
Minuteman Boston Terrier Rescue
Jennifer Tripp
508-753-5074 (MA)
or
Leasa Tyrell
207-743-8878 (ME)
Boston Terrier Club of Maryland
Rescue Committee
Rachel Toczylowski
8906 Ardwick-Ardmore Rd.
Lanham, MD 20785
(301) 322-7464
Fostering, adoption, and referrals
Covers the Maryland, Virgina, Penns, Delaware,
and D.C. areas.
Detroit Boston Terrier Club
Barbara Lohringel
696 Merrimac
Canton, MI 48188
313-397-8982
or
Mira Jilbert
2082 Butterfield
Troy, MI 48084
313-643-7282
Lenape Boston Terrier Club
Alma Bettencourt
41 Main Rd.
Flanders, NJ 07836
201-584-9485
Boston Terrier Club of Milwaukee
Dr. Myles Notaro
2925 South 10th St.
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414-482-1633
Boston Terrier Club of Canada
Doreen Jones, Secretary
7127 5th St. S.W.
Calgary, AB T2V 1B2
(403) 259-3295
Bouvier Des Flandres
American Bouvier des Flanders Club, Inc.
Diane Sutherland
227 Dalton
Mundelein, IL
708-949-7512
or
Ralph Goldman Memorial Fund
American Bouvier Rescue League
Jacqueline R. Crowe, committee chair
1880 West 11800 South
South Jordan, Utah 84065
801-254-0462
Nancy Woodley (Rescue Chairman for the SouthEast)
3114 Wilson Road
Decatur, GA 30030
404-723-1273
Northeastern Illinois Bouvier des Flanders
Candice Lutz
210 Hazelwood Dr.
Lindenhurst, IL 60046
708-356-0084
American Bouvier de Flandres Club Inc,
Northeastern Rescue Coordinators
John Canty
508-741-3670 (MA)
work: 508-745-1718
or
Hilarie Felber
203-643-7066 (CT)
Maureen Patterson
508-358-6657 (MA)
Ken Westphal
617-979-0854 (MA)
Deborah Abeles
413-743-4084 (western MA)
Bouvier des Flanders Club of SE Michigan
Sandra Jarrell
5522 Lake Vista
Pontiac, MI 48054
313-881-0200
313-681-5652
Debbie Goldstein
703-786-2346
Virginia
Boxer
American Boxer Association
Tracy L. Hendrickson
4412 W. Kent Circle
Broken Arrow, OK 74135
800-999-8387
Ursula P. Sauthier
17100 Ventura Blvd. #111
Encino, CA 91316-4077
818-343-6244
|| Bay Area Boxer Rescue
|| Marilyn Baum
|| CA
|| (415) 383-1062
|| Boxer Rescue of Marin is a division of Fund-raisers for
|| Animal Helpers, a non-profit, tax deductible association.
|| Boxer Rescue is a 100% volunteer organization and is always
|| looking for adopters, foster homes, drivers and volunteers
baylist: 415-383-1065
Greater Miami Boxer Club
Elizabeth McCann
3601 NW 35th Way
Lauderdale Lakes, FL 33309
305-484-3076
Jill Dennis
313-652-3178 (MI)
Boxer Rescue Service, Inc.
Michele McArdle
203-853-9595 CT
or
Beth Coviello
508-695-1972 (evenings)
617-784-7750 (days)
Massachusetts
or
Lois Ann Holmes
207-825-3688 (ME)
Boxer Rescue Service, Inc.
Jean Loubriel
90 Holland Ave.
Demarest, NJ 07627
201-786-6627
notes: "Rescue on average as many as three Boxers a week.
There is coverage of shelters, kennels, pounds and
veterinarian's offices looking for the distressed Boxer
Puppy and Adult."
Saucon Valley Boxer Club
Mary Leibensperger
PA
(H) 610-797-8392 (W) 610-866-0400
Bluebonnet Boxer Club
Stephania Jinks
1210 Magnolia Lane
Kingwood, TX 77339
713-359-4255
or
Jinna Dunn
P.O. Box 8732
Grangerland, TX 77302
408-231-3873
Brnady Nunciato
713-332-1506 (TX)
Charlene & Joseph Combs
TX
210-521-0213
Pacific Northwest Boxer Club
Bill and Sarah McNary
9006 184th SE
Snohomish, WA 98290
206-483-9358
Sheila Fraswer
8031 South 130th
Seattle, WA
206-228-1860
Briard
Briard Club of America
Jack Wynne, U.S. & Canada
321 Central
Inkster, MI 48141
313-729-7590
or
Mary Bloom
53-07 Douglaston Parkway
Douglaston, NY 11362
718-224-5275
Merry Jeanne Millner
NC
910-869-5490
Briard Club of America Rescue Program volunteer
Dianne Schoenberg (WA)
Internet: dia...@u.washington.edu
Marsha and Dennis Gough
Oroville, CA
916-533-5497
Mike Johnson
El Toro, CA
714-581-2597
Mary Lopez
Salinas, CA
408-663-3200
Gwen Shook
Grand Terrace, CA
714-783-2117
Marsha Clamp
617-325-6511 (MA)
Judy Ziozios
517-790-9590 (MI)
Judith Pratt
603-464-5599 (NH)
(referral only)
Brittany
American Brittany Club
Anne Murphy
908-840-2169 (NJ)
Aloha Brittany Club
Dimi Poser
P.O. Box 78
Waianae, HI 96792
Missouri Brittany Club
Dave White
12012 W. 150th Circle
Olathe, KS 66062
913-897-3822
Ellynn Packard
53 Pleasant St.,
Cohasset, MA 02025
617-383-9701
Joanne Godin
603-898-1746
New Hampshire
Martha Close
VA
703-764-0884
Walter & Diane Scott
VA
804-357-2857
Brussels Griffon
NBGC Rescue
Marjorie Simon, breed rescue chairman
25 Windermere
Houston, TX 77063
713-783-8887
Prodigy: XWSD28A
baylist: Joan Guest
860-862 Old County Rd.
Belmont, CA 94002
Linda Knight
703-364-2068
Virginia
Bulldog
Bulldog Club of America
Dr. James K. Young
512-340-0055 (TX)
Bulldog Club of America Rescue & Adoption
800-594-4289
Bulldog Club of Northern California
Pat Ropp
Los Gatos, CA 95030
408-356-0039
Bulldog Club of Denver
Sandra Coffman
Littleton, CO 80123
303-979-6460
Barbara Mangini
203-281-1409
CT
Pat and Pam Devoid
Hillsborough County, FL (near Tampa Bay)
813-988-7324
Joyce Smith
Pinellas County, FL (near Tampa Bay)
813-733-3284
(also does French Bulldog Rescue)
Miriam Lundeen (maine only)
207-989-6791
New England Bulldog Rescue
Kathy Bernardi
508-386-5541 (MA)
or
Diane Condon
508-869-2981
or
Pat Garrity
508-842-8848
Amy Knerr-Hankinson
Granville, OH 43023
614-587-4042
Covers OH, VA, IL, WV, IN
(also places other breeds from time to time)
English Bulldog Rescue
Chuck Reeb
PA
412-746-0985
Sylvia Arrowwood
Monks Corner, SC
803-899-7460
also does Pugs
San Antonio Bulldog Club
Dr. Jim Young and Diana Young
San Antonio, TX 78227
512-673-8020
512-340-0055
Bulldog Club of Texas
Brandy Nunciato
17719 Heritige Creek Drive
Webster, TX 77598
Bullmastiff
The American Bullmastiff Association
Mary Walsh
690 E. 8th St.
S. Boston, MA 02127
617-268-0359
HOTLINE: 508-939-5300
or
Virginia Rowland (@ HOTLINE number)
Bullmastiff Rescue and Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
Mark Worrell
internet: ma...@dsinet.dgtl.com
or
Barbara Brooks-Worrell
internet: bbr...@u.washington.edu
CALIFORNIA
Claudette Aamodt
707-584-9359
Phillip Maresca
415-594-9304 work: 415-960-1120
Nancy McDonnell
415-595-2266
Dee Gensburger
707-763-8443
MICHIGAN
Barbara Brant
313-437-3314 (MI)
Bull Terrier
Bull Terrier Club of America
Norma Shepherd
800-BTB-T911 (RI)
or
Bill Edwards
1526 Belleau Rd.
Glendale, CA 91206
818-956-1170
1-800-282-8911
Bull Terrier Welfare and Rescue
Norma
800-BT-BT-911
Bull Terrier Club of Central Arizona
Lisa Newell
5002 West Stephanie Rd.
#114
Glendate, AZ 85301
602-931-2654
Barbary Coast Bull Terrier Club
Shari A. Mann
1241 27th Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-564-9335
Bull Terrier Club of America
Randy and Jan Bisgaard
1173 N. Westmoreland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
213-667-0582
Mile High Bull Terrier Club
Mark and Diane Haller-Campbell
3446 Longview Rd.
Erie, CO 80226
303-828-3027
Dee Garrison
1070 E. Eaton St.
Lakewood, CO 80226
303-935-2791
Charlene Rogers
203-747-6397
Connecticut
Bull Terrier Club of Tampa Bay
Sandra Hill-Cowen
2810 Crystal Court
Coconut Grove, FL 33153
305-858-3827
Ft. Dearborn Bull Terrier Club
Katherine Ross
151 Saemann Rd.
Chesterton, IN 46304
219-926-6959
Bull Terrier Club of St. Louis
Jeff Clinebell, D.V.M.
Columbia Animal Hospital
Columbia, IL 62236
618-281-7161
Bull Terrier Club of Metro Detroit
Sharon Whalen
7185 Gillette
Flushing, MI 48433
313-659-5951
Bull Terrier Club of New England
802-775-6369
or
Kathy Brosnan
P.O. Box 634
Kingston, NH 03848
603-642-5355
or
Christine St. Cyr
617-867-4017 (MA)
or
Norma Shepherd
401-231-3332 (RI)
Central New Jersey Bull Terrier Club
Corinne Gliozzi
31 Bloomfield Ave.
Somerset, NJ 08873
201-214-0170
Buckeye Bull Terrier Club (Northern Ohio)
Kayla Applebaum
2765 Som Cntr. Rd.
Huntington Valley, OH 44022
216-464-0396
or (Southern Ohio)
Carolyn Kramer
4611 Manchester Rd.
New Middletown, OH 45042
513-424-4909
Golden Triangle Bull Terrier Club
Betty Desmond
R.D. 2, Box 315
Claysville, PA 15323
412-663-5345
Blue Ridge Bull Terrier Club
Cheryl Yost
4401 Manor Hall Lane
Fairfax, VA 22033
703-378-5373
David Weber
Rt. 3 Box 162
Charlottesville, VA 22901
804-971-9668
Bull Terrier Club of Puget Sound
Linda Owings-Rosenburgh
7033 52nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115
206-865-7539
Bull Terrier Club of Canada (Alberta Div.)
Tom O'Conner
Box 5958, Station A
Calgary, Alberta, T24 1Y4
Canada
403-936-5501
Cairn Terrier
Cairn Terrier Club of America
Betty Marcum
Rt. 3, Box 78
Alvarado, TX 76009
817-783-5979
and
co-chairs: Sue DeWitt
203-846-3345 (CT)
Lynne Nabors
314-773-8712 (Texas)
or
NE Regional Chair, Anne Maning
401-739-6680 (RI)
Cairn Terrier Club of Northern California
Bobbie Walker
P.O. Box 2177
Mill Valley, CA 94442
415-388-6708
Cairn Terrier Club of Southern California
Karen Smith
889 El Paisano Dr.
Fallbrook, CA 92028
619-728-7133
Cairn Terrier Club of Denver
Nancy Cassel
795 Spanish Bit Dr.
Colorado Springs, CO 80921
719-488-3195
Nancy Barrett
617-583-0458
MA
Sue Millward
313-429-4068 (MI)
Becky Stamps
214-416-7277 or 214-464-5262
Texas
Potomac Cairn Terrier Club
Lynda Hammel
12027 Sugarland Valley Dr.
Herndon, VA 22070
703-471-7769
Cairn Terrier Club of Canada - Ontario & Eastern Regions Rescue
Edith Skellett
4243 Tisdale Rd
RR 3 Mount Hope
Ontario, CA
LOR 1WO
416-679-6741 (between 9am - 8pm)
Kathy Nicklas-Varraso
email contact: kat...@world.std.com
Anne Manning
Rhode Island
401-739-6680
Cardigan Welsh Corgi -see Welsh Corgi Cardigan
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Debbi Baker
617-784-8038
MA
Babs Murdock
207-829-4436
Maine
Patricia Hutchins
517-686-1396
MI
Cavalier King Charles Spaniels of B.C.
Katie J. Eldred
34639 4th Ave
Huntingdon, BC
VOX 1MO
604-853-6974
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
Paulette Nolan
508-548-0127 (MA)
Chihuahua
Chihuahua Club of America
Mrs. Ruth Terry
203-227-3177 (CT)
Judy Edson
(i have 2 addresses/phone numbers:)
508-224-3163 (MA)
Sandy Rinder
212-475-8479 (NY City area)
Chihuahua Club of B.C.
Edna St. Hilaire
2114 Dublin St.
New Westminster, BC V3M 3A9
(604) 521-0922
Chinese Crested
New Jersey Chinese Crested Rescue
Cyndy Carroll
19 Lakeview Drive
Tabernacle, NJ 08088
609-268-8926
david...@aol.com
Chinese Shar Pei
Chinese Shar-pei Club of Americaa
Chinese Shar-pei Rescue Committee
Eastern Region Coordinator
Alice Lawler
P.O. Box 143
Creamridge, NJ 08514
609-758-7630
Chinese Sharpei Rescue of New England
Charlene Rogers
203-747-6397 (CT)
or
Ann Doolittle
203-387-2792 (CT)
Chinese Shar Pei Rescue
617-524-8368 (MA)
Chinese Shar-Pei Club of the Raritan Valley Rescue
Randy Blumhagen
254 Hillside Ave.
Cranford, NJ 07016
908-276-4355
or
Maryann Smithers
232 Park Rd,
Boonton, NJ 07005
201-334-8035
or
Cynthia Czarda-Black
7 13th St.
North Brunswick, NJ 08902
(grooming shop) 908-846-4949
Chow Chow
Chow Chow Club Rescue
Chris Cameron
209-733-8738
or
Barbara Malone
201-872-9253 (NJ)
or
Dr. J.A. DeBlois
319-359-9208
see also: Vicki Rodenberg below
baylist: Ellen Prior
6095 Springer Way
416-983-6412 (between 6-9pm)
San Jose, CA 95123
Pam Skorupski
208-881-2469 (CT)
Rita Enwright
508-688-7288 (MA)
(referrals only)
Robin Richards
616-698-8449 (MI)
Sheila Patton
517-487-0504 (MI)
Elaine Albert
516-361-9496 (NY)
Loretta Phillips
614-695-1216 (OH)
Mt. Hood Chow Chow Club
Joyce Hay
8455 S.E. Orchard Lane
Portland, OR 97266
503-774-5127
Chow Chow Club of Greater Houston
Shirley Gooch
P.O. Box 1593
Houston, TX 77251-1593
713-453-7834
Wisconsin Chow Chow Club
Vicki Rodenberg
9828 E. Co. A
Janesville, WI 53546
608-756-2008
Chow Chow Fanciers of Canada, South Central Ontario
Judy Goacher
4248 RR 1 Kendal, ON LOA 1EO
Marion Block
VA
703-866-4149
Dave & Cindy Durman
VA
703-750-2154
Mary Louise Mays
MD
410-876-7683
Clumber Spaniel
Clumber Spaniel Rescue Committee
c/o Janna Glasser
40 Crosshill Road
Hartsdale, NY 10530
914-428-4582
Vikki Lucas
407-696-2338
Sue Carr
NJ
908-580-1055
Kathy Rehm
WI
414-898-4850
Cocker Spaniel - See also English Cocker Spaniel
American Cocker Spaniel Club
Jackie Rowe
CA
619-466-1407 (office)
619-460-6407 (home)
Should be able to give out local rescue info.
baylist: Ann Norton
237 Santa Lucia Ave. #5
Bay Cities Cocker Spaniel Club
Vera Sill
110 Yellowood Pl.
Pittsburg, CA 94565
|| Cocker Spaniel Rescue of Maryland
|| Patricia and John Sinelli
|| 6910 Knighthood Lane
|| Columbia, Maryland 21045
|| 410-381-5106
|| Rescue in Maryland, Washington, D.C., Virginia, and PA.
|| Will take cocker mixes, age not an issue.
or
|| Dr. Valerie Macy
|| 25 Glenberry Court
|| Phoenix, Maryland 21131
|| 410-771-1518
|| email: Valeri...@umail.umd.edu
Cocker Rescue
Lori Jones
301-582-1426 (MD)
Cocker Rescue
Leslie Jackson
301-694-8118 (MD)
Cocker Rescue of Greater Boston
Hotline
617-241-9008 (MA)
Cocker Spaniel Rescue of New England
Gerry Foss
603-547-3363 (eves & weekends)
New Hampshire
San Bruno, CA 94006
Katherine Blair
VA
703-430-2255
Collie
Collie Club of America
Gene Malone
602-790-0317 (AZ)
Tuscon Collie Club
Jean Malone
7066 Calle Centuri
Tuscon, AZ 85710
602-790-0317
Northern California Collie Rescue
Jean Roberts
1046 Sunset Rd.
Napa, CA 94558
707-252-2134
408-288-6624 (Santa Clara County) (mi...@novell.com)
408-683-4604 (Gilroy/Santa Cruz)
Collie Rescue Southern California
Cookie Routman
909 15th St., Apt. E
Santa Monica, CA 90403
213-395-6496 (Los Angeles)
805-255-5777 (Saugus, Lancaster)
805-524-4542 (Ventura County)
805-969-5548 (Santa Barbara County)
Collie Club of Colorado
LaVonne Archuletta
3226 W. Exposition Ave.
Denver, CO 80219
303-936-1519
Collie Rescue of Metro Atlanta
Connie Delinski
404-633-2337 (GA)
Ann Humphries
404-292-9694 (GA)
Collie Rescue League
Marty Hamlin
17604 Parkridge Drive
Gaithersburg, Maryland 20878
phones: (not nec. Marty)
301-948-6849
703-569-4728
Collie Club of Maryland
Pam Catalano
608 Plymouth Rd.
Baltimore, MD 21229
301-747-0296
The Collie Network
Mary Lenertz
P.O. Box 45
Harvard, MA 01451
617-456-8473
or
Hotline: 508-456-8473
Collie Rescue League Of Mass., Inc (serves NE!)
Andria Sobcazk
2 Evergreen Rd
Lincoln, RI 02865-4808
401-726-1688
Hotline: 401-726-5927
email contact: Eric Storch -- E.St...@ma02.bull.com
World Wide Web page:
http://stout.ma02.bull.com/~erics/collie-rescue.html
Tri-County Collie Rescue, Michigan
Carol Fox
5955 Mayburn
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
313-277-2320
Lee Patton
313-522-8405 (MI)
Toledo Collie Club
Carol Lamb
147 Tunnicliffe Rd.
Petersburg, MI 49207
313-856-2072
Toledo Collie Club
Kathy Foley
5434 Armada Dr.
Toledo, OH 43623
419-472-4638
Pacific Northwest Collie Club
Glenda Kelly
44615 NW Elk Mnt. Rd.
Banks, OR 97106
503-324-1872
or
Theresa Uzelac
10685 NW McDaniel Rd.
Portland, OR 97229
503-641-4619
Collie Rescue of South Eastern Pennsylvania
P.O. Box 1307
Willow Grove, PA 19090
Lynn Wolkiewicz
215-335-3544
Linda Knouse
215-659-3331
Collie Club of Western Pennsylvania
Cheryl Flora
132 Church Lane
Pittsburg, PA 15238
412-767-7033
Andria Sobczak
401-726-1688
Rhode Island
Collie Rescue League of Metro, Washington, Inc.
Kay Richter, Secretary
9202 Honey Creeper Ct.
Burke, VA 22015
and
Martha Handman, President
7433 Sportsman Dr.
Falls Church, VA 22043
Collie Club of America
Carol Zielke
205 N.E. 174th
Seattle, WA 98155 *I had this in Spokane?
206-367-6653
The following is a list of names and phone numbers
for Collie Rescue given to me by Holly Kruse.
AZ: Patrick Martin, 602/948-1503
CA: Kay Bedeau, 916/423-1732]
CO: Susan Murphy, 303/659-7875
CT: Nancy Connor, 413/367-2182
Darlene Ferris, 203/877-2431
IL: Anne Rice, 708/940-1596
Jan Ziech, 815/475-7143
KY: Christine Schroth, 606/586-5750
LA: Carolyn Donner, 504/391-0151
MA: Nancy Connor (see CT)
MD: Barbara Bernhardt, 301/236-9294
ME: Claire Marx, 207/892-3118
MI: Megan Veen, 313/664-2548
MO: Cecily Barker, 314/567-6289
NC: Claudia Aaron-Sneed, 919/791-2518
NH: Beth Michaud, 603/424-5436
NJ: Anna Jones, 908/464-5720
Marge Lippman, 201/962-4173
NY: Christine Wayman, 518/734-3179
OH: Nonda Jones, 216/235-4197
Ruth White, 412/443-6248
OR: Pam Beery, 503/246-0688
PA: Sandy Fisher, 215/932-2777
Doug Miller, 717/382-4086
Ruth White (see OH)
TX: Marion Pahy, 512/494-0389
Bettina Whyte, 713/661-2052
VA: Teresa Warner, 703/528-7349
WI: Marge Hohman, 414/734-6734
E. Ann Buck, 715/344-8533
baylist: 707-445-3685
Corgi -see Welsh Corgi
Curly-Coated Retriever
Curly-Coated Retriever Club of America
Sandra Freeman
919-867-7795 (NC)
or
Sheila Callahan-Young
508-281-3860
Dachshund
Dachshund Club of America
Ruth Martucci
7647 Sunset Ave
Fair Oaks, CA 95628
or
Lena K. Leonardson
603-899-3114 (NH)
baylist: 408-253-8153
San Diego Dachshund Club
Dorothy Shelton
4496 Trias St.
San Diego, CA 92120
619-296-036
Lori Eden
708-965-4666 (IL)
Mary Anne Fowler
IL
708-95-2707
Dachshund Rescue of Monmouth/Ocean County
Jody Caizza
New Jersey
908-928-9786
Western Pennsylvania Dachshund Club
Kathryn Daniels
1319 E. Hookstown
Grade Rd.
RD #1
Clinton, PA 15026
412-378-7858
Sheila Hitchcock
OH
513-825-2116
Jessica Lindsay
Rock Hill, SC
803-327-5406
Eastern Canada
Dachshund Club
Pat Kearney, Secretary
P.O. Box 151
Pakenham, ON K0A 2X0
(613) 624-5608
Dalmatian
Dalmatian Club of America
Chris Jackson
410-356-7252 (MD)
Dalmatian Club of Northern California
Joe Immerman
639 Prentiss St.
San Francisco, CA 94110 415-282-6929
|| Southern California Dalmation Club
|| Mary Widder, President
|| CA
|| 805-583-5914
Greater Denver Dalmatian Rescue
P.O. Box 620761
Littleton, CO 80162
Andrea: (303) 973-9453
Beth: (303) 226-1316
Central CT Dalmatian Club
Leslie & David Prior
203-289-7274 (CT)
Atlanta Dalmatian Rescue
Maria Zorka
metro-Atlanta, GA
404-325-1595
a...@america.net
Annette Edoff
508-562-9019 (MA)
Dal Club of Southern New England
Helene Masaschi
days 508-888-2211 or 508-888-6510
eves 508-888-0133
Dalmatian Adoption League & Rescue
Barb Gunnage, president
D.A.L. Rescue Svc.
20472 Purlingbrook
Livonia, MI 48152
313-471-3487
Mike Harper, VP
313-383-5483 (MI)
Dalmatian Club of Greater St. Louis
June Mueller
3208 Brisolhall Ct.
Bridgeton, MO 63044
314-739-8682
|| Dalmation Club of America
|| Rescue Committee members
|| Sharon Lyons
|| NY
|| 914-635-3529
or
|| Kelly Skinner
|| NY
|| 607-724-2571
Kim & Margaret Blutreich
P.O. Box 580
Wingate, NC 28174-0580
704-282-4947
Central Carolina Dalmatian Club
Rescue Chair,
Tina Smith
NC
919-269-4683
Delaware Valley Dalmatian Club
Donna Howard
218 E. King Street
Malvern, PA 19355
215-853-2839
or Susan Hlavacek
215-647-8884 (PA)
Piedmont Dalmatian Club
Pres., Mary Dolde
Rt. 1 Box 139
Edgemoor, SC 29712
803-789-5125
Kate Romanauski
713-298-1443 (TX)
Bev Greene
713-444-5019 (TX)
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
Dandie Dinmont Terrier Club of America
Jacklyn Moss, rescue chair
703-684-1480 (VA)
also listed:
Evelyn Ammerman
312 Hoffnagle St.
Philadelphia, PA 19111
215-742-6933
Douglas Young
614-869-4243 (OH)
215-742-6268
Dogo Argentino - see Argentine Dogo
Doberman Pinscher
Doberman Pinscher Club of America
(and Metro Atlanta Doberman Rescue)
Judith Fellton
219 Johnson Ferry Rd.
Marietta, GA 30067
404-971-1533
|| (call for local references - there are over 200
foster homes all over the U.S., many of which are
not listed here)
Tucson Doberman Pinscher Club
Sharon Crissey
4948 La Canada
Tucson, AZ 85705
602-888-9116
Santa Ana Valley Doberman Pinscher Club
Jane Menz
1119 S. Clarence
Anaheim, CA 92806
714-956-2685
baylist: 408-734-5834 or 707-448-3850
Elizabeth Adjan
510-532-5040 (bay area, CA)
Always looking for foster homes, too
Aztec Doberman Pinscher Club of San Diego
Angie Monteleon
9821 Dunbar Lane
El Cajon, CA 92021
619-443-8944
Cabrillo Doberman Pinscher Club
Betty Smith
25510 Carmel Knolls
Carmel, CA 93923
408-625-0366
or
Sandra F. Wood
158 Garlin Rd.
Watsonville, CA 95076
408-724-7005
California-Sierra Doberman Pinscher Club
R. Dallara
P.O. Box 3058
San Bernardino, CA 92413
714-884-9604
Doberman Pinscher Club of Rocky Mountain Area
Nancy Melichar
8358 W. 62nd Pl.
Arvada, CO 80004
303-421-9074
Patti & Henry Clark
203-426-3154 (CT)
Joanne Bugai
CT
203-349-3788
Doberman Rescue
301-460-3869 (MD)
New England Doberman Rescue
508-624-5455 (MA)
Doberman Rescue Unlimited, Inc.
508-454-9791 (MA)
The Doberman Pinscher Club of Michigan
Greater Detroit Area
Maggie Hillard, sec DPCM
496 Emmons Blvd.
Wyandotte, MI 48192
313-284-2549
New Hampshire Doberman Rescue League
Norma Guronskas
207-457-1329
Maine
or
Paul McTigue
207-947-7274
Maine
or
Barbara Burns
508-256-5776 (MA)
or
Sherry Bovinet
603-357-3533
New Hampshire (also Vermont referrals)
or
Fran Robinson
203-653-4124
Connecticut
or
D. & F. Bloomberg
508-373-0388 (MA)
Robin Tardiff
603-382-9664 (NH)
Doberman Pinscher Breeders Association of Penn-Jersey
Pat Adriano
40 Broad Ave.
Edison, NJ 08820
201-494-0951
Doberman Rescue (NC)
Gabi 704-394-5464
Iris 704-392-3259
Gail 704-398-0164
Donation for adoption is $100 and includes all vaccinations
and spay/neuter.
Mt. Hood Doberman Pinscher Club
Pat McMillian 3123 SE 129th Ave.
Portland, OR 97236
503-761-2455
Quaker City Doberman Pinscher Club
Pam Gutekunst
One Melvin Road
Phoenixville, PA 19460
215-935-0822
Judy Staven
401-683-5516
Rhode Island
Doberman Rescue
Julie Munford
Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX
214-606-1510
Puget Sound Doberman Pinscher Club
Julianne Ferado
P.O. Box 58455
Renton, WA 98058
206-226-4810
Ambermark Dobe
Larralyn McKay
416-493-6408 (Toronto, Canada area)
English Bulldog -see Bulldog
English Bull Terrier -see Bull Terrier
English Cocker Spaniel -see also Cocker Spaniel
English Cocker Spaniel Club of America
Marsha T. Wallace, M.D., rescue chair
607 Wayne St.
Alexandria, VA 22301
or
6232 N. 18th Rd.
Arlington, VA 22205
703-548-7641
703-241-5422
English Cocker Rescue
Mary Beth
410-799-2069 (MD)
Mrs. Jane Doty
508-897-3883 (MA)
Ann Kimball
802-748-4281 (VT)
English Pointer -see Pointer
English Setter
English Setter Association of America
Dawn Ronyak
216-285-4531 (OH)
Golden Gate English Setter Club
M.A. Samuelson
21680 Fortini Rd.
San Jose, CA 95120
408-997-2605
408-354-7205
Joanne Bradow
Deltona, FL
407-324-2837
Cheryl Rudolph
508-668-0954 (MA)
English Shepherd
English Shepherd Club
Mary Ann Dwight
413-774-5888
Western Mass, referrals only
English Springer Spaniel
English Springer Spaniel Rescue - CA
Arlene Rooney or Karen Ryan
310-830-8126 209-358-5965
or
Jan Racey or Tammy Osborn
805-522-0687 714-667-0934
or
Valerie Christensen or Ellen Etenkamp
408-734-5834 818-343-0360
baylist: 408-255-8436 or 408-779-2739
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
|| Barbara Czarzasty
|| Connecticut contact
|| 203-888-2192
Eastern English Springer Spaniel Hotline
English Springer Spaniel Rescue
Lorraine Paul
P.O. Box 107
Dunstable, MA 01827
617-237-4751
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
|| Cheryl Worhington-Petras
|| Mass/Southern Vermont contact
|| 802-447-0809
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
|| Brooks Parrott
|| Northern NJ contact
|| 201-875-8539
or
|| Doreen & John Naimo
|| Mid NJ contact
|| 908-364-6387
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
|| Program Coordinator
|| Marge Silverthorn
|| NY
|| 516-472-0402
or
|| Assistant Coordinator
|| Karyl Schuldt
|| NY
|| 941-738-6027
or
|| Gail Schuljan
|| Long Island, NY contact
|| 516-654-2157
or
|| Sandy Friedel
|| Lower New York contact
|| 914-362-3873 or 516-668-9483
or
|| Bob&Betsy January
|| Westchester, NY contact
|| 914-528-1357
or
|| Holly Blodgett
|| Binghamton, NY contact
|| 607-625-3858
English Springer Spaniel Field Trial Association
Marie Anderson, Rescue contact
WA
206-839-7937
Helen Rae Thomas
Everettville, WV 26533
304-278-7657
304-278-7708
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
Barbara & Richard Shum
Northern VT
|| 802-259-2195
|| English Springer Spaniel Club of Long Island, Inc.
|| Carrie Maynard
|| Central Vermont
|| 802-763-7412
English Toy Spaniel
Sue Kisielewski
Route 1, Box 245-X
Monroe, VA 24574
804-946-2417
Fila Brasileiro
Fila Brasileiro
Rt. 1 Box 324
Zebulon, GA 30295
706-567-8085
Fila Brasileiro Registry
P.O. Box 456
Manhattan, KS 66502
913-776-5909
FAX: 913-539-6116
Finnish Spitz
Libby McGreevy
San Bruno, CA (Northern California)
415/952-1765
li...@ucsfvm.ucsf.edu
Flat Coated Retriever
Vicky Nickerson
MA
617-837-1566
Joyce Rein
616-846-0773
MI
Fox Terrier -Toy- see Toy Fox Terrier
Fox Terrier - Smooth or Wire
|| National Fox Terrier Network
Pam Bishop
|| 909-672-2008
(Should be able to send local rescue references.)
Ruth Millington
805-386-3757 (southern CA)
rescue for Wire Fox Terriers, Airedales.
has info on rescue for smooth fox, welsh, and lakelands
Fox Terrier Club of Northern California
|| Ehren Webster
CA
|| 415-329-1719
|| Bonnie Guzman
|| CO
|| 303-733-4220
|| National Fox Terrier Network member
|| Geanne Wightman
|| FL
|| 407-333-4191
|| Fox Terrier Club of Chicago
|| Barb Krynski
|| IL
|| 708-298-6348
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093 (MA)
(referrals only)
Carol Wainwright
313-395-4554 (MI)
Jean Derench
603-894-4727 (NH)
|| Maryanne Roma
|| PA
|| 215-822-2838
|| Houston Fox Terrier Club
|| Dee Langley
|| TX
|| 713-723-5124
|| Sheila Allen
|| WA
|| 206-334-0681
French Bulldog
French Bulldog Club of America
Brenda Buckles, rescue network chair
6111 Walnut St.
Kansas City, MO 64113
816-444-3363
or
Jo Ellen Garber
617-961-4553 (MA)
Joyce Smith
Pinellas County, FL (near Tampa Bay)
813-733-3284
(Also so American Bulldog Rescue)
Judy Hoobin
508-399-7315 (MA)
German Shepherd Dog
NATIONAL CLUB
German Shepherd Dog Club of America, Inc.
Linda Kury, rescue committee national chair
369 Drake Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051
408-247-1272
ALASKA
German Shepherd Dog Club of Alaska
Bonnie Johnson and Christa Burg
P.O. Box 670266
Chugiak, AK 99567
907-688-2352
ARIZONA
Ron and Margaret Nunnally
P.O. Box 19696
Happy Jack, AZ (Phoenix area)
602-477-2216
CALIFORNIA
German Shepherd Rescue
Grace Konosky
417 N. Moss St.
Burbank, CA 91502
(818) 558-7560
(full service rescue)
Monica Royalty
909-674-8363 (don't know where this is...)
Pat Stevens
510-790-9123 (central CA)
Manuel Madena
714-491-9177 (southern CA)
Linda Baker
805-297-1002 (CA)
Tracy Vickers
CA
916-726-3346
Jay Taub
CA
916-967-4902
Dorathy Stansbury
4660-Mayapan Dr.
La Mesa, CA 91941
619-447-6963
Analee Nations
3420 Luna Av
San Diego, CA 92117
619-274-8132
Jim Silzeira
4685 Cheshire St
San Diego, CA 92117
619-576-1016
Trina Nagia Collinwood
3061 Grand Av
Fillmore, CA 93015
805-524-2774
(full-service rescue)
Linda Liederknecht
P.O. Box 2067
Simi Valley, CA 93065
805-522-1016
(full-service rescue)
Julie Priest
CA
510-778-1638
Gerti Duweiss
CA
209-523-6221
Barbara Adcock
4444 Lazy Lane
San Jose, CA 95135
408-274-4444
(referrals only)
Cindy Legrand
24 Butcher Lane
Fieldbrook, CA 95521
707-826-1724
(referrals only)
Lisa Renick
4811 Deny Ct.
Sacramento, CA 95842
916-339-9818
(referrals)
COLORADO
Susan Casey
Colorado Springs, CO
719-597-8025
Nancy Phelpes
box 213
Larkspur, CO 80188
303-681-2900
CONNECTICUT
German Shepherd Club of Greater New Haven (CT)
Roberta
203-795-4910 (New Haven)
or
Dorrie Halloway
203-758-3756
Prospect, CT
Helen Scott
46 Hyde St
Manchester, CT 06040
203-646-4023
Catherine A. McDonald
18 Stone Mill Rd.
Storrs, CT 06268
203-487-1213
DELAWARE
Cynthia Mitchell
DE
302-875-0756
Suzanne Greenholt
115 cardinal Circle
Hockessin, DE 19707
302-234-3339
FLORIDA
Linda Novotasky
4661 Hedgehog St
Middleburg, FL 32068-6455
904-282-8808
Irving Polack
361 Western Rd.
New Smyrna, FL 32168
904-423-8662
Jim Trejbal
P.O. Box 2727
Jacksonville, FL 32203
904-725-8859
Penny Evancic
1244 Jamaica Court
Jacksonville, FL 32216
904-725-9009
Susan Armstrong
6030 NW 77 Terrace
Parkland, FL 33067
305-753-5772
Diane Roberts
11904 McMullen Loop
Riverview, FL 33569
813-671-2913
A full service rescue
GEORGIA
Janet Berwick
GA
706-636-2621
Mike Protocas
Marietta, GA
404-587-5248
(referrals)
Dana F. Everles
GA
404-926-6366
IDAHO
Sharon Thomas
Rt. 1, Box 123
Priest River, ID 83856
208-448-2787
ILLINOIS
German Shepherd Rescue
Diane Wright
244 E. Stimmel St.
West Chicago, IL 60184
708-293-4167
German Shepherd Rescue
Liz Vahlcamp
IL
314-863-1467
full service rescue
Janet Ingalls
St. Charles, IL 60175
708-377-2919
referrals
Diane Wright
29W, 265 Lee Rd.
W. Chicago, IL 60185
708-293-4167
German Shepherd Rescue
Jackie Brandt
Rt. 1, Box 253
Mokena, IL 60448
815-485-2052
(full-service rescue)
Susie Kuzelka
1807 Truman Dr
Normal, IL 61761
309-452-7997
INDIANA
Dianna Lugo
36 Warren St
Hammond, IN 46320
219-932-5506 (home) or 219-853-6507 (office)
Laurie Tatum
o6 E. 800 N
Lake Village, IN 46349
219-345-5540
full service rescue; owner surrenders only
LOUISIANA
Joan R. Morehead
PO Box 5024
Shreveport, LA 71115
318-797-5982
referrals
MAINE
Adroscoggins GSD Club of Maine
Winnie And Norman York
ME
(referrals)
have 2 numbers: 207-469-7628
207-797-4387
Joyce Gagnon
RFD 3 Box 433
Wiscasset, ME 04578
207-882-7470
(full service rescue)
MARYLAND: See also Virginia for DC area rescues
Risa Lapidow
MD
301-441-2461
Margaret Scaife
Jeff Dr., Box 185-19
Waldorf, MD 20603
301-843-0966
full-service rescue
Gayle Arrington
Prince Frederick, MD
2 numbers: 410-535-1999 and 703-440-6125
(referrals)
MASSACHUSETTS
Janice Ritter
MA
617-290-0710 (days only)
(referrals)
Westledge GSD Rescue
John Hire/Patty Lacroix
Western MA
413-967-8361
Mary Maguire
Huguenot Rd
Oxford, MA 01540
referrals
Debbie Hokkanen
GSDCA Regional Rescue Contact
MA
508-852-4473
MICHIGAN
Gail Gray
1500 Sylvan Rd.
Chelsea, MI 48118
313-475-3570
(referrals)
Kathleen Holcomb
21500 Wasson Rd.
Gregory, MI 48137
517-223-9863
(referrals)
MINNESOTA
German Shepherd Dog Club of Minneapolis-St. Paul
Marilyn Lindsey-Miller
210 Kindross, P.O. Box 574
Willenie, MN 55090
612-426-3682
(referrals)
Pat Peterson
MN
612-461-2743
Bert Haagenstad
4361 Welcome Ave N.
Crystal, MN 55422
612-535-6339
MISSISSIPPI
Cindy Bailye
581 Walker Lane
Raymond, MS 39154
601-857-5373
MISSOURI
German Shepherd Rescue
Anne Mackey
Kansas City, MO
816-363-0121
Karen Waggoner
Ozark, MO
417-485-6946
NEVADA
German Shepherd Dog Club of S. Nevada
Betty Zapatka
5409 Avendia Vaquero
Las Vegas, NV 89108
702-645-2721
Dottie Newell
NV
702-425-2103
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Ellamea and Rex Jones
603-228-6819 (NH)
Referral only (for now)
Wendy Luba
Mt. Vernon, NH 03057
603-673-6426
Emily St. Hilaire
Weare, NH 03281
603-529-2458
NEW JERSEY
Jodi Caizza
201-928-9786
Kim Dislonde
201-743-8885
Iza Kabuska
RD2 Box 364
Andover, NJ 07821
201-398-1393
A full-service rescue
Donna Petrosia
P.O. Box 903
Jackson, NJ
908-370-3795
German Shepherd Rescue
Christy Shore
Leesburg, NJ
609-785-9728
Kim
Rutherford NJ
201-935-7076
Does rotties and GSDs.
German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA (see below)
Southern NJ
609-985-4725
Lacy's Shepherd Rescue
Donna Petroisie
Jackson, NJ
908-370-3795
NEW MEXICO
Central New Mexico GSDC
Kathy Gonsey
429 Shirk Ln SW
Albuguerque, NM 87105
H: 505-877-7352
W: 505-877-8370
full service rescue
NEW YORK
Ritter Hof Kennel
Mary and Kitty Cummings
810 E. Maine Rd.
Johnson City, NY 13790
607-729-2718
German Shepherd Rescue
Risa Stein
Rocky Pt, NY
516-744-3258
Anne Marie Stedman
NY
914-756-4165
Donna Blair
Pottersville, NY 12860
518-251-3959
Margaret C. Patterson
Macedon, NY
315-524-4126
NORTH CAROLINA
German Shepherd Dog Rescue
Debbie & Jim Rafalowski
Raleigh, NC
919-467-4698
internet: j...@unity.ncsu.edu
full service rescue
Steve & Anita Holton
Raleigh, NC
(referrals)
919-774-6384
OHIO
German Shepherd Rescue
Elizabeth Stidham
Eaton, OH 45320
513-456-5393
Dennis Barker
17 Tyler St.
Toledo, OH 43612
419-476-3899
Dr. Bonnie Huffman
8591 Kennard Rd.
P.O. Box 4
Lodi, OH 44254
216-948-4101
OKLAHOMA
German Shepherd Rescue
Lynn Seals
404 Airport Rd.
Broken Box, OK 74728
405-584-7664
PENNSYLVANIA
German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA
Nancy Aiosa (717) 586-9064 Diane Reppy (717) 943-2055
Sue Bunnell (717) 388-6959 Charlotte Williams (717) 943-2624
German Shepherd Rescue
Nadine Miller
1 West Crestlyn Drive
York, PA 17402
717-741-0286
Kim Carr
PO Box 93
New Columbia, PA 17856
717-568-0567
Colleen Baker
1168 Dogwood Lane
Quakertown, PA 18951
215-538-3201
German Shepherd Rescue
Carol & Wendall Larson
RD1 Box 415
Upper Black Eddy, PA 18972
215-294-9216
Jennifer & Tom Buck
RD2 Box 2821P
Hamburg, PA 19526
215-320-4000
SOUTH CAROLINA
GSD Rescue
Carl Makins
SC
803-232-9125
TENNESEE
Laura Hamrick
233 Burch Road
Clarksville, TN 37042
(615) 431-4561
(White GSDs only)
TEXAS
Marci Linn
817-847-1126 (TX)
German Shepherd Dog Club of Dallas
Connie Irwin
214-530-1568 (TX) referrals
or
EJ Murphy
817-481-1753 (TX) referrals
German Shepherd Dog Club of Houston
Adoptive Assistance
Tom Landry
713-251-0403 (Houston area)
German Shepherd Dog Club of Fort Worth
Lee Rugeri
Roanoke, TX
817-431-9163 (TX)
(referrals)
Sherry Wallis
725 E. Creekside
Houston, TX 77024
713-465-9729
VERMONT
Ian McLean
Starksboro, VT
802-482-3932
David McCarthy
Burlington, VT
802-899-3559
Bonnie Capron
Arlington, VT
802-375-6057
VIRGINIA - see also Maryland for DC area rescues
Betsy Brown
Oragne, VA - referrals
703-854-7840
Julie Duhn
200 Gravel Ridge Rd.
Waynesboro, VA 22980
Larry Spivak
9200 Dorothy Lane
Springfield
703-451-9046 (VA)
Gloria Shelton
703-659-1400 (VA)
Debbie Day
VA
703-895-9047
WASHINGTON
GSD Rescue
Margaret LaTour
P.O. Box 3523
Redmond, WA 98073
206-762-4504
(full service rescue)
WEST VIRGINIA
James Breon
Petersburg, WV
304-257-4638
WISCONSIN
Carol Overguard
Cambridge, WI 53523
608-423-4456
German Shorthaired Pointer
CALIFORNIA:
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of Orange County
Karen Detterich
P.O. Box 818
Mira Loma, CA 91752
714-359-6960
Alison J. Lavitt
13532 Elgers Street
Cerritos, CA 90701
213-921-1345
baylist: 415-493-2555 (Eddyce and Lou Mueller)
German Shorthair Pointer of CA Rescue
Laura Hansen
2644 monte Vista
El Cerrito, CA
(510)235-6792
Grass Valley: Hank & Maggie Deetz (916)764-2595
Livermore: Mimsy Pangilinan (510)449-5197
Napa: Jan Scott (707)257-7008
3258 Sonoma Highway
Napa, CA 94559
Redlands: Stephanie B. Casdorph (909)798-3491
Jean Galli
1225 Buchanan Drive
Santa Clara, CA 95051
408-241-6398
Sharon Ennis
5926 Mauritania Ave
Oakland, CA 94605
510-562-2846
COLORADO
German Shorthaired Club of America
Geraldine Irwin
1101 W. Quincy
Englewood, CO 80110
CONNECTICUT
German Shorthaired Pointer Club of America
Chairperson, rescue
Nancy Campbell
P.O. Box 134, Redding, CT 06875
(203)-938-8048
ILLINOIS
Chicago: Melinda Metzger (312)883-1736
Presumption: Bonnie Wilcox, DVM (309)534-8112
KANSAS
Beloit: John Pfefferkorn (? )738-5135
Olathe: Julie Haller (913)782-5866
MAINE
Brunswick: Wilma G. Sarna (207)729-5838
MARYLAND
Upperco: Donna Headley (410)239-8387
MASSACHUSETTS
|| Mayflower GSP Club
Linda Flynn
|| 189 Robbins St.,
|| Milton, MA 02186
|| email: GSP...@aol.com, lfl...@fdic.gov
Katahdin German Shorthaired Pointer Club of New England
|| Peggy Gagnon
|| 24 Back Rd.
|| Danville, NH 03819
|| 603-642-5878
MINNESOTA
Barnum: Don & Betty Sandberg (218)389-3413
Inver Grove Hts.: Sally Battista (612)455-0364
MONTANA
Billings: Nancy Lane (406)698-3438
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Candia: Alison Jones (603)483-8113
Danville: Peggy Gagnon (603)642-5878
Sandown: Tricia Thomas (603)887-2093
NEW JERSEY
Chester: Eleanor Campbell (908)879-2378
Edison: Marcia Steinmann (908)494-1290
Millville: Judith L. Noon (609)825-3948
Morris Plains: Lina Vitanza (201)829-6877
Stockton: Jane C. Ludwig (609)397-2016
Upper Montclair: Joan Tabor (201)746-5986
also GSP rescue (201)746-5986
GSP rescue (609)737-1910
NEW MEXICO
Carrizozo: Sharon Baker (505)354-2894
Las Cruces: Phyllis McNall (505)527-4201
NEW YORK
Hampton: Kenneth Janssen (518)282-9648
Pine Bush: Laura Pedersen (914)744-5501
Red Hook: Jacquelyn Cookingham (914)758-8511
Sound Beach: Lori Truncale (516)821-3084
NORTH CAROLINA
Charlotte: Judith Van Noate (704)375-6957
Walkertown: Beth Cochran, DVM (919)595-3307
OHIO
Cambridge: Betsy Miller (614)439-2652
Medina: Judy Parietti (216)667-2688
PENNSYLVANIA:
Carlisle: Virginia S. Shambaugh (717)249-1947
TEXAS
Red Oak: Joan McGrath (214)617-0256
(unknown) Shelia Hauser (713)351-0248
(unknown) Jeanne Wright (713)492-0810
VERMONT
Shelburne: Lorie A. Crain (802)425-4007
VIRGINIA
Phiolmont: Cecelia Weller (703)338-2801
WASHINGTON
Renton: Linda Zobbi (206)255-7464
German Wirehair Pointer
German Wirehair Pointer Club of America
Linda Strathman
508-249-8360 (MA)
Erica Bandes
203- 266-7883 (CT)
German Wirehair Pointer Club of America
Carol L. Stuart
RD 2, Box 182
Altoona, PA 16601
814-943-4045
Seattle-Tacoma German Wirehaired Pointer Club
Laura Myles
22730 Echo Lake Rd.
Snohomish, WA 98290
206-481-3371
Giant Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-Giant
Golden Retriever
(NOTE: An asterisk (*) next to a club's name within Goldens
indicates that they are affiliated with a club.)
NATIONAL CLUB RESCUE
* Golden Retriever Club of America
Ginny Kell, rescue chair
314 932-4650 (MO)
or
William Feeney
707 795-7941 (CA)
ARIZONA
Arizona Golden Retriever Rescue
PO BOX 10982
Glendale AZ 85318-0982
Marti Gregoire - full service rescue, all of AZ
9AM - 9PM
602-566-8101 (AZ)
Covers state of Arizona, full service rescue
CALIFORNIA
Golden Tales Golden Retriever Rescue
23212 Respit
Lake Forest CA 92630-3851
Stephanie Mullins
8:30AM to 4:00PM
NO WEEKEND CALLS
714-859-1822
TERRITORY: Orange County CA
Referral Rescue Only
* Norcal Golden Retriever Rescue
1602 South Wolfe Road
Sunnyvale CA 94087
Mary Alward
408-739-6679, 6PM-9PM
TERRITORY: Northern California - Fresno to Oregon
Full Service Rescue and Referral Rescue
Golden Retriever Club of Greater Los Angeles
Margo Smith
2112 East Oakdale Street
Pasadena, CA 91107
818-449-4262
The Golden Retriever Club of Greater Los Angles, Inc.
Nancy Talbott
5050 West Avenue L
Quartz Hills, CA 93563
805-943-2731
baylist: Steve Southard
408-723-3348
Golden Retreiver Rescue, Friends for Pets Foundation
Diane Monahan
7131 Owensmouth Ave, Suite 39a
Canoga, CA
818-701-0674
or
LaVonne Rodstein
310-377-2998
Golden Canine Connection
Inland Empire Area (southern CA)
Janna Lin
909-924-5251, 909-242-3932, Fax 909-924-4061
email: Jann...@AOL.Com
Helen Redlus
(408) 738-1235 or (408) 730-9422
San Francisco Bay area, CA
email: hre...@rahul.net
The Golden WWW page - http://www.rahul.net/hredlus
(for lots of referral golden rescue info)
* Golden Retriever Club of San Diego County Rescue Service
8314 O'Connell Road
El Cajon CA 92021
Susan Burrows
8AM to 10PM
619-449-1991
or
Jeannette Poling
619-445-9216
8AM to 10PM
TERRITORY: San Diego County, California
Full Service and Referral Rescue
HUG A HEART GOLDEN RETRIEVER RESCUE
525 Suzanne Road
Walnut CA 91789
Margo Smith
818-331-1545
Full Service Rescue
|| Miki Shannon
|| 818-897-7027
COLORADO
* Mile Hi Golden Retriever Rescue
28230 Douglas Park Road
Evergreen CO 80439
Anne Shannon
303-674-8913
Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Denver, Ft. Collins, Colorado Springs, Front Range
CONNECTICUT-SEE MASSACHUSETTS
DELAWARE - SEE MARYLAND
FLORIDA
Tallahassee Golden Retriever Rescue
Cindy or Stan Gramling
PO BOX 266
Tallahassee, FL 32302
904-421-7006
10AM to 8PM
Full Service Rescue
Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: City/County
*Mid-Florida Golden Retriever Club Rescue (change 1/12/94)
Betty Wyatt
Sarah Davis
PO BOX 180503
Casselberry FL 32718-0503
407-332-2840
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: State of Florida
emphasis on Central and North FL
GEORGIA
* Atlanta Golden Retriever Club Rescue
2301 Boone Place (NAME AND ADDRESS CHANGE 2/17/94)
Snellville GA 30278
call:
Connie Wages, 404-985-6832
Sandra Graziano, 404-934-3431
Leave Message
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Metro Atlanta
State of Georgia (dog must be delivered)
Also: see S.Carolina, Oconnee County Golden Retriever Rescue
Covers Northeast Georgia.
ILLINOIS
Rescue a Golden Service (RAGS)
Patti Ridge
5254 W. Windsor
Chicago IL 60630-3721
312-777-5456
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Chicago and suburbs, North Indiana,
Southern Wisconsin
Lisa Blasco
312-665-9712 (IL)
INDIANA
Southern Indiana Golden Retriever Club Rescue
Bill and Vicki Spencer
2650 Holland Drive
Owensboro KY 42303-2723
502-683-8348
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Central to Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Northern
Tennessee
IOWA
* Iowa City Golden Retriever Club Rescue
R.R. 1 Yankee Grove
Lisbon, IA 52253
call:
Linda Carter
319-455-2945, 10AM to 6PM
or
Julie Caruthers
319-895-6989, 10AM to 10PM
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Central and Eastern Iowa
KENTUCKY - see INDIANA
MAINE
*Pine Tree Golden Retriever Club., Inc. Rescue
Donna Hammond
RR 1 Box 300 A
Hiram ME 04041
207-625-4825, 9AM - 6PM
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: State of Maine
ALSO: see Massachusetts
MARYLAND (see also Virginia)
GRREAT
Golden Retriever Rescue, Education, and Training, Inc.
P.O. Box 2070
Ellicott City, MD 21043
Laurie Anderson
703-620-6593
Full Service Rescue and Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Maryland, Virginia (north of Richmond), Washington DC
Delaware, parts of PA)
(past GRREAT president)
Kathy Carbone
301-788-0180 (MD)
Tricia Robson
301-442-2213 (MD)
MASSACHUSETTS
Yankee Golden Retriever Rescue, Inc.
P.O. Box 104
North Reading, MA 01864
508-975-4091 (serves New England)
MICHIGAN
* Ft. Detroit Golden Retriever Rescue Service
609 W. 13 Mile Road
Royal Ok MI 48073-2408
Pat Coates-Thebo
810-588-5874, 9AM to 6PM
or
Laura Culp
810-673-7923
TERRITORY: state of Michigan
MINNESOTA
Retrieve a Golden of Minnesota
1960 Midland Hills Road
Roseville Minnesota 55113
Ardis Brown
612-631-0984
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Iowa, Wisconsin, North Dakota, South Dakota,
Nebraska
Greater Twin Cities Golden Retriever Club
Ardis Brown
1960 Midland Hills Road
Roseville, MN 55113
612-631-0984
MISSOURI
Golden Rescue
Donna Thompson
12219 Cheryl Ct.
St. Louis MO 63128-1608
314-843-1734
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Missouri
NEBRASKA
Golden Retriever Rescue in Nebraska Inc. (GRRIN)
Barbara Zelechoski
PO BOX 628
Elkhorn NE 68022
402-330-6680
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Nebraska
See Also MINNESOTA
NEW JERSEY
Golden Re-Triever Inc.
PO BOX 812
Butler, NY 07405-0812
call:
Judy Laureano
201-492-1194
or
Tom Kiernan
908-363-5318
Full Service Rescue, no referral
TERRITORY: Northern New Jersey
Delaware Valley Golden Retriever Rescue
PO BOx 512
Bernville, PA 19506-0512
610-678-4981
(Southern New Jersey, south of trenton, and eastern PA area)
or
Robin L. Adams
Kathy Uhrman
610 678-4981
Full Service Rescue, No Referral
NEW HAMPSHIRE
See Yankee Golden Rescue, Massachusetts
Salem Animal Rescue League
603-893-7169
NEW MEXICO
Rio Grande Valley Golden Retriever Club
Linda Atwell
6516 Esther, NE
Albuqureque, NM 87109
505-821-9471
NEW YORK
* Long Island Golden Retriever Club
126 Marvin Avenue
Rockville Centre NY 11570-2511
John and Mary Kelly
62-49 83rd Place
Middle Village NY 11379-1949
718-335-3026
TERRITORY: Long Island
Laurel Doudera
516-727-6306 (NY)
(Referral only)
Renee Warshauer
516-933-1912 (NY)
Donna & Jeff Sievers
516-727-6306 (NY)
GRROWLS
Teri Vigars
PO BOX 6634
Syracuse NY 13217
315-689-3259
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Syracuse and Upstate New York
NORTH CAROLINA
* Triad Golden Retriever Club of Central North Carolina
1910 Strathmore Dr.
Greensboro NC 27410-2118
call:
Lynn Brogan
6709 West Friendly Ave.
Greensboro, NC 27410
919-292-9365
or
Lee Newlin
910-288-9944
or
Kris Karlek
704-634-1221
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: North Central North Carolina
* Golden Retriever Rescue Club of Charlotte NC
7539 Cedarbrook Drive
Charlotte NC 28215
Kathy Nixon
704-573-1055
(leave message)
or
Jane Sanders
704-846-4165, 8AM to 9PM
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Mecklenburg County, Charlotte
ALSO: See South Carolina
Golden Retriever Rescue and Placement Program
Laura Culp
Raleigh, NC
919-469-8563 (leave message)
See also: S. Carolina, Oconnee County Golden Retriever
rescue, covers Blue Ridge Mtn area of N. Carolina
NORTH DAKOTA - see Minnesota
OHIO
Golden Retrievers In Need (GRIN) Rescue Service Inc.
6511 Tanglewood Lane
Seven Hills OHIO 44131-3146
Ginny Najpaver
216-328-0375, 9AM to 9PM
or
Marlene Goldman
216 449-1784, 5PM - 10PM
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Northeast Ohio
Golden Endings Golden Retriever Rescue
Barbara Geitz
523 N. Columbus Street
Lancaster OH 43130-3036
614-687-4955, 9AM to 6PM
TERRITORY: Central and Southern Ohio
West Central Ohio Golden Retriever Rescue
PO Box 283
Enon, OH 45323
call:
Pam Campbell
513-323-7566, 9AM - 9PM
or
Mary Savage
513-298-2350, 9AM - 9PM
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Dayton and surrounding counties
* Golden Retriever Club of Greater Toledo
Linda Copti
1023 Keeler St.
Maumee, OH 43537
419-893-9833
West Central Ohio Golden Retriever Rescue
Pam Campbell
P.O. Box 283
Enon, OH 45323
(513) 323-7566
OKLAHOMA
Sooner Golden Retriever Rescue
9209 South Youngs Blvd.
Oklahoma City OK 73159
call:
Bob Bornstein
405-691-4839
or
Sara Schafer
405-359-2247
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Oklahoma
OREGON
Golden Bond Rescue
7500 Spring Valley Road NW
Salem, OR 97304-9750
Jennifer Bondley
503-362-2198
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Oregon
PENNSYLVANIA
Delaware Valley Golden Retriever Rescue Inc.
PO BOX 2321
Sinking Spring PA 19608-0195
Kathy Uhrman
Robin L. Adams
610-678-4981
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Southern New Jersey (South of Trenton)
Eastern Pennsylvania
RHODE ISLAND - see Massachusetts
SOUTH CAROLINA
* Midlands Golden Rescue
Mary B. Williams
PO Box 3545
Columbia SC 29230-3545
803-735-0599, 9AM - 9PM
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: South Carolina
Oconnee County Golden Retriever Rescue
580 Turkey Trot Road
Mountain Rest SC 29664-9801
call:
Lee Bryson
803-638-9896
or
Della Gardner
803-647-0741
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: South Carolina, Northeast Georgia, Blue Ridge Mountain
area of North Carolina
SOUTH DAKOTA - See Minnesota
TENNESSEE
Golden Retriever Rescue of Oak Ridge
106 Newell Lane
Oak Ridge TN 37830
call:
Pauline Stevens
615-483-4087, 9AM to 9PM
or
Pat Vogel
615-435-1129, 9AM to 9PM
Full Service rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Central and East Tennessee, Southeast Kentucky,
Northwest North Carolina
See also: Kentucky
TEXAS
Greater Houston Golden Retriever Club
6802 Stroud
Houston, TX 77074
(713) 855-6044 (is this number still valid?)
call:
Ty Smith
713-988-2744, 7PM - 9PM CENTRAL TIME
or leave a message (new rescue chair 2/14/94)
or
Lisa Ducher
713-429-7214, 7PM - 9PM CENTRAL TIME
Full Service Rescue, Referral Rescue
TERRITORY: Houston, Harris County, occasionally
dogs from Beaumont and Victoria
* Dallas - Ft. Worth Metro Golden Retriever Rescue
Route 4 Box 420
Quinlan TX 75474
call:
Terry Thornton
214-871-3900, 9AM to 4PM
NO WEEKENDS
or
Sandy Cass
214-492-5871, 9AM to 5PM, WEEKDAYS BEFORE 7PM
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: North Texas south To Waco, West to Abilene
* GOLDEN RETRIEVER RESCUE OF AUSTIN
Jane Lucas
15730 Fitzhugh Road
Austin TX 78736
512-264-1242, 9AM to 6PM CENTRAL TIME
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: City of Austin and Surrounding Counties
UTAH
Hobo Golden Rescue Program
Larry and Cindy Winlaw
PO BOX 211296
Salt Lake City UT 84121
801-942-6123, 9AM - 4PM WEEKDAYS
REFERRAL ONLY
TERRITORY: Utah
VERMONT
Vermont Friends of Rescue
Mardi Trendle
802-878-3233
or
Kathy Kehoe
802-425-3626
VIRGINIA (see also Maryland)
GRREAT
(Golden Retriever Rescue, Education and Traning,Inc.)
Virginia
(703) 620-6593
(serves D.C., north and northwestern VA, MD, DE, and eastern PA)
GRREAT of Southeastern Virginia, Inc.
(Golden Retriever Rescue, Education, And Training, Inc.)
P.O. Box 8014
Yorktown, VA 23693
(804) 827-8561
Full Service Rescue
Serving Richmond, VA to Virginia Beach
ALSO: GRREAT (north of Richmond) See Maryland
Mary Jane Shervais
703-791-5708
WASHINGTON DC: See Maryland and Virginia
WASHINGTON
Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue - Golden Rescue
Roz Helton
23713 NE 43rd Street
Redmond, WA 98053
206-868-8175 or SPDR (206) 467-0205
Full Service Rescue
TERRITORY: Western Washington
Inland Empire Golden Retriever Club
Lisa Branford, Secretary
Spokane, WA
(509) 927-7600
(referrals)
WISCONSIN - See Illinois
CANADA
Golden Retriever Club of Canada
Cathy Leonard, President
P.O. Box 20073 Beverley Postal Outlet
Edmonton, AB T5W 5E6
(403) 436-2537
Golden Rescue, serving the Golden Retriever
6021 Yonge St. Box 1015
North York, ON M2M 3W2 Canada
416-883-4093
Gordon Setter
The Gordon Setter Club of America Rescue Committee
(also, Miami Valley Gordon Setter Club)
Crystal Todor, chair
47 Taylor Blair Road
West Jefferson, OH 43162
614-879-8405
Sun Country Gordon Setter Club
Gary Andersen
6250 E. Pershing
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
602-991-7485
Golden Gate Gordon Setter Club
Nancy Thompson
8577 Stratus Drive
Orangevale, CA 95662
916-989-1633
Southern California Gordon Setter Fanciers
Peri Norman
2780-6 Tapo Canyon #112
Simi Valley, CA 93073
805-579-0438
High Plains Gordon Setter Club
Lynn Fruchey DVM
1428 Dayton Ave.
Aurora, CO 80010
303-343-7022
Jean Bates
Orlando, FL
407-298-1945 or 407-660-2455
The Gordon Setter Club of Hawaii
Gretchen Cobeen
Honolulu, HI
808-523-8181
The Gordon Highlanders
Nancy Zak
1N521 Prince Crossing
West Chicago, IL 60185
708-231-8826
Tartan Gordon Setter Club
Wendy Abelman
31 May Street
Sharon, MA 02067
617-784-8806
Gordon Setter Club of Michigan
Sally Walker
1665 Madsen Lane
Ortonville, MI 48462
313-627-2778
North Country Gordon Setter Club
Richard & Sandra Ohlgren
1 Swallow Ln.
North Oaks, MN 55127
612-486-7449
Midwest Gordon Setter Rescue
Gloria Suntrup
1121 Mexico Rd.
Wenzville, MO 63385 (MO & surrounding areas)
314-332-3394
Magnolia Gordon Setter Club
Beth Beatty
PO Box 44
Pinnacle, NC 27043
910-351-4815
Brandywine Gordon Setter Club
Anne Pickrell
75 Spier Drive
South Orange, NJ 07079
201-763-5392
New Mexico Gordonites
Susan Coffey
1421 Wilmore Dr. Se
Albuquerque, NM 87106
505-842-9489
Paumanauk Gordon Setter Club
Frances Glynn
214-Fourth Ave.
Holtsville, NY 11742
516-289-2671
Cindy Long
RR1 Box 7
Bromlow Rd.
Waller, TX 77484
409-931-1814
Columbia River Gordon Setter Club
Nadeen Gilmartin
20600 NE 878th ave.
Battle Grand, WA 98604
206-576-0736
Puget Sound Gordon Setter Club
Lynn Serack
General Delivery
Preston WA 98050
206-888-0693
Badgerland Gordon Setter Club
Marte Wetzel
4859 Marrick Ct.
Cottage Grove, WI 53527
608-839-4261
Blue Ridge Gordon Setter Club
Debbie Fincham
Rt. 1, Box 21
Rapidan, VA 22733
703-672-4230
Great Dane
Great Dane Club of America
Marie A. Fint
442 Country View Lane
Garland, TX 75043
214-279-1016
or
Pookie Kostuk, chairman
P.O. Box 2015
Cheshire, Conn. 06410
203-272-8292
Great Dane Fanciers of Greater Anchorage
Toni Tadolini
3301 Cottle Loop Rd.
Wasilla, AK 99687
907-376-3915
Great Dane Club of San Diego
Milan Bayan
3221 Vista Cielo Lane
Spring Valley, CA 92078
619-669-1507
Great Dane Rescue of Northern California
Betty and Bill Thomas, Colleen Leahy Spears
15255 Clydelle Ave.
San Jose, CA 95124
408-277-6851
408-267-0788
Great Dane Club of California
Florence Treseder
8660 Telfair
Sun Valley, CA 90352
818-767-0757
baylist: Colleen Leahy
1087 Hazelwood Ave.
San Jose, CA 95115
Gloria Barrick
11127 Plainview Rd.
Golden, CO 80403
303-642-3154
Gisele Sherwood
2652 Frontier Lane
Franktown, CO 80116
303-688-8692
Great Dane Rescue/Malabar Danes
Georgia Randall
P.O Box 382
Malabar, FL 32950
407-724-6712
or
Pat Page (FL)
407-729-8880
Great Dane Club of Mid-Florida
Kevin Kavanaugh
8800 Erie Lane
Parrish, FL 34219
813-776-1094
Great Dane Club Mid-South
Darcy Quinlan
5363 Franklin Goldmine
Cummings, GA 30130
404-887-4417
Greater Cincinnati Great Dane Club
Donna Wright
18057 Laurel Rd.
Connersville, IN 47331
317-698-3869
Great Dane Club of Greater Kansas City
Glenda Burns
KS
913-432-2518
Great Dane Club of Maryland
Helen Baker
P.O. Box 21037
Baltimore, MD 21228
301-747-5974
Great Dane Club of New England
Arlyne Koopmann
c/o 52 East St.
Hanover, MA 02339
617-784-9093
Bob & Christine Glavin
508-824-1329 (MA)
Pat Gorney
|| 810-631-4018 (MI)
Willamette Valley Great Dane Club
Rhea Pearsall
5694 Keene Rd. NE
Gervais, OR 97026
503-792-3283
The Great Dane Club of Las Vegas
Mel Covert
6129 Edgewood Cr.
Las Vegas, NV 89107
702-878-2970
Janice Tetrault
518-279-1417
Albany, NY
Lee Ann Cogdill
716-792-9929
Brockton, NY
Heidi Hoover
PA
215-375-7865
Great Dane Club of Western PA
Erin McGlynn
PA
(412) 361-2968
Jean MacKenzie
RI
401-942-2094
Great Dane of El Paso
Esther Scoggins
6643 Westside Dr.
El Paso, TX 79932
915-877-2042
|| Great Dane Foundation (GDF)
|| TX (Houston area)
|| (713) 497-2360
|| e-mail: mpi...@houston.geoquest.slb.com
Great Dane Club of Greater Houston
Great Dane Rescue & Education Foundation
Cathy Mitchell
713-496-5130 TX
or
Georgia Thomas
14123 Panhandle
Sugar Land, TX 77478
713-491-7625
Great Dane Rescue
Mid-Atlantic Region
703-938-9332 (northern VA)
Great Pyrenees
Great Pyrenees Club of America
Catherine de la Cruz
4445 B Old Gravenstein, Hwy S.
Sabastopol, CA 95472
707-829-1655
AOL: Cdlcpyrs
Internet: Cdlc...@aol.com
-or- je...@freya.sunnyvale.ca.us
Grand Canyon State Great Pyrenees Club
Mickey Chaney
250 Arabian Dr.
Sedona, AZ 86336
602-284-2230
GPA of So. California
Dottie Sisco
18122 Rancho Ave.
Raustra Devore, CA 92407
714-985-3866
Orange Coast Great Pyrenees Fanciers
Carol Riley
5786 Jeffries Ranch Rd.
Oceanside, CA 92056
619-945-8962
Great Pyrenees Club of California
Jeanne Yturbide
2064 Jackson St.
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-922-4378
Mile High Great Pyrenees Club
Carolyn Ferguson
Rt. 1 17925 CR 69
Fleming, CO 80728
303-265-3863
Great Pyrenees Club of Greater Chicago
Amy Zacher
135 Fairview Lane
Steamwood, IL 60107
708-289-2842 (private phone)
Great Pyrenees Rescue Service
Sue Perkins
ME
207-666-8816
Fran Spier
ME
207-582-7331
Bo and Margaret Riley
508-851-5090
(referral only) (MA)
Great Pyr. Rescue
Randi Smith
ME
207-829-3344
Great Pyrenees Club of Metro, Detroit
Michele Brown
19614 Elizabeth
St. Clair Shrs, MI 48080
313-722-9150
Great Pyrenees Club of Iowa
Carol Adamson
1845 175th Ave. N.E.
Foley, MN 56329
612-662-2464
Evelyn Nagle
NH
603-924-7472
Pyrenean Fanciers of the Northeast
Flo Laicher
RD 12, Dixon Rd.
Carmel, NY 10512
914-225-2754
Heart of Ohio Great Pyrenees Club
Pat Wallace
301 21st St. N.W.
Canton, OH 44709
216-456-8496
Great Pyrenees Club of Greater Pittsburg
Carolyn Mohr
16473 Rock Creek Rd.
Thompson, OH 44086
216-298-3489
(Cover eastern PA and some Ohio, I believe)
Penn-Dutch Great Pyrenees Club
Maureen Maxwell-Simon
7430 Jonestown Rd.
Harrisburg, PA 17112
717-545-4477
Alamo Great Pyrenees Club
Jean Cave
Box 493 FM 875 West
Midlothian, TX 76065
214-299-2202
National Capital Area Great Pyrenees Club
Janet Ingram
204 Wild Partridge Lane
Radford, VA 24141
703-731-0229
Columbia-Cascade Great Pyrenees Club
Lee Trowbridge
Rt. 1, Box 236ff
La Center, WA 98629
206-263-4740
Puget Sound Great Pyrenees Club
Linda Welsser
3449 Gull Harbor Rd. N.E.
Olympia, WA 98506
206-357-9478
Great Pyrenees Club of Metro Milwaukee
Laura Johnston
300 Upland Ct.
Colgate, WI 53017
414-628-2947
Great Pyrenees Club of Metro, Milwaukee
Judy Brown
3360 Jackson Dr.
Jackson, WI 53037
414-677-2894
Westcoast GPA of Canada
Sharon Armstrong
9400 Beckwith Rd.
Richmond, BC
Canada V6X 1V9
604-278-1494
Great Pyrenees Club, Ontario Central Region
Carol Graham or Norma Egginton
Prestonfield Farm RR 5
Rockwood, ON NOB 2KO
519-853-3005 or 519-856-9267 (between 9am - 9pm)
-------------This is the end of Part 1 ----------------
*Copyright (c) 1993 by Michael George Buening. Please distribute this
document freely providing you keep this copyright intact. This document
may not be sold for profit nor incorporated into commercial documents
without the express permission of the author. This document is provided
"as is".
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/health-care.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
HEALTH CARE ISSUES
Table of Contents
* Prologue
* In General
* Administering Medicine
* Allergies
* Aging
* Bathing
* Dental Care
* Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)
* Ears
* Food
* Incontinence
* Neutering
* Overheating
* Puberty
* Skin Problems
* Temperature
* Trimming Nails
* Vaccinations
* Vomiting
* Worms
_________________________________________________________________
Prologue
Considerable information herein is summarized from Carlson & Giffin,
authors of a home veterinarian handbook. I would like to thank them
for their informative and accessible information. Any mistakes made in
the summaries are my responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's. I
believe that I am within copyright laws by using summarizations (no
direct quoting, except for the toxic plants section), my own
organization of the material, and precise acknowledgement where
relevant.
This article is presented for informative purposes only, and should
NOT be used to "replace" normal veterinary care. Rather, the
information included is intended to allow you
* to be aware of potential problems,
* to be able to prevent some of these problems, and
* to know when to take your dog in and what to tell your vet.
_________________________________________________________________
In General
Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick. You need to be familiar
with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
something is wrong. Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
changes in either can signal trouble.
If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
toward keeping your dog healthy. Never attempt to replace vet care
with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
information about your dog's condition.
You should know some emergency care for your dog. This is beyond the
scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations. Check
a home-vet book and ask your vet about them. Some of these include:
* mouth-to-mouth resuscitation
* CPR
* temporary bandages and splints
* inducing vomiting
* a good antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes, etc.; povidone iodine
(brand name Betadine) is recommended
There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs. These
include:
Miller, Harry. The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8
(paperback).
Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you
can determine a dog's overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases
and problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain
symptoms.
Taylor, David. You and Your Dog. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
symptoms are serious or not. Not as comprehensive as other care
books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
when your dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures,
such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming. Informative discussion of
reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.
An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:
Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN:
0-87605-764-4 (hardcover).
This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A must have
home veterinarian handbood.
_________________________________________________________________
Administering Medicine
There are many devices to aid in administering medicine. In
particular, pill plungers are effective and available by mail order. A
syringe with no needle is good for liquids. Ask your vet for some
other ideas.
PILLS
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
on top of and in the center of the tongue. Close the dogs mouth and
hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows. If it
licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill. Giving it a
treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.
You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
Pill plungers work well, also.
LIQUIDS
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek. Seal the lips
around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid. Large amounts can
be given this way. Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used. Your vet can help you
out here.
EYEDROPS
If you must administer eyedrops to your dog and it resists, try the
following trick: stand behind your dog and hold the eye open to
administer the drops. You don't appear as dominating this way.
_________________________________________________________________
Allergies
Dogs can get allergies just like people do. However, symptoms involve
skin problems rather than respiratory distress. Check the skin
problems section over for possible clues toward allergies. A common
culprit is fleas, but dogs can be allergic to many other things,
including some types of food commonly found in dog food.
A good way to have your dog's allergies tested is with a RAST test.
Your vet should know about it and either be able to perform it, or
recommend you to someone who does.
_________________________________________________________________
Aging
Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
preventable. It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
examined thoroughly every six months.
In particular, you want regular blood work done on your dog. For
example if kidney function declines, you want to know so that you can
switch to kidney-sensitive diets.
A recently published book is
Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. Senior Years:
Understanding your Dog's Aging Process. Howell Book House. 1993.
ISBN: 0-87605-734-2.
BEHAVIORAL CHANGES
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin) Older dogs are more complacent,
less energetic and curious. They may be forgetful, and sleep more.
Crankiness and irritability are common. They are less tolerant of
changes in the environment; in particular you may wish to have someone
come by and check the dog at home rather than kennel it when you leave
on vacation. Older dogs in hospitals and kennels go off their feed,
become overanxious, and bark frequently.
PHYSICAL CHANGES
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin. Resistance to cold
is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
bed. Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.
Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so. Also, some
conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
exercise. Toe nails will require more frequent trimming. Stiffening
joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
anal areas clean. The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
it clean and less dry.
Loss of hearing and sight may occur. Tooth and gum disease is fairly
common. Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure). Incontinence (mostly in
older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.
An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.
GERIATRIC VESTIBULAR DISORDER
Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
infection, sometimes inflammation). Very little is actually known
about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
completely disoriented.
Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.
_________________________________________________________________
Bathing
You may need to bathe your dog on occasion. The main thing to remember
is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans. It is much more prone
to drying out when you wash it. Human based shampoos are formulated to
remove all the oils. You need to get one formulated for dogs that will
remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat. Dogs that are
frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as Linatone or
vegetable oil) to keep their skin and coat healthy.
A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
out. Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out skin,
may occur.
PROCEDURE
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots. Bathing
will not remove these and in fact will worsen them. Plug its ears with
cotton to prevent water in the ears. To prevent soap-burn in the eye,
smear the eye area with a little vaseline, or administer a drop of
mineral oil in each eye.
Wet your dog thoroughly. Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
Using a shampoo formulated for dogs (the pH balance of human shampoos
is wrong), lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water
out of its eyes and ears. Lather and rinse the rest of its body.
Relather and rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.
Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, and then rinse it again, even beyond when
you think you've got all the soap out. Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil
(one teaspoonful per quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.
Do NOT use vinegar, lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will
damage the dog's coat and skin.
Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
completely dry to avoid chilling.
DRY SHAMPOOS
Dogs with very oily coats may benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
baths. Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
cornstarch are all effective. They can be used frequently without fear
of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.
Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush. Then brush the
whole dog normally to get all the powder out.
TAR
Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
the tar from your pet's skin. Instead, trim away excess coat
containing tar where possible. Soak remaining tarry parts in vegetable
oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.
SAP
Sap (especially pine tree sap) often must simply be trimmed off.
However, some people have had success with Murphy's Oil Soap.
_________________________________________________________________
Dental Care
Owners that practice good dental care with their dog will reap many
benefits in the long run.
TYPICAL PROBLEMS
The most common cause of bad breath is excessive calculus and plaque
deposits on the teeth. Bacteria live and feed in the plaque and
produce gum and bone infection, pain, and bad breath.
Calculus is a crusty collection of food particles, minerals, and
bacteria that forms at the teeth-gum borders.
Plaque formation eventually leads to gum disease, mouth odors,
receding gums and bone destruction and infection. The rate at which
plaque forms in your dog's mouth is mainly due to genetic
predisposition, but can be slowed by daily oral hygiene using
antiplaque liquid or gel and/or pastes and regular professional
cleaning and polishing.
Pyorrhea (inflamed and infected gums) of the teeth is often the cause
of kidney infections and endocarditis in older dogs. The pressure on
the gums and infection of the teeth is quite painful to your dog.
PREVENTIVE STEPS
An antiplaque liquid or gel (Chlorhexidine) can be applied to the gum
tissue with a cotton ball or swab. As an alternative, a soft bristle
toothbrush or finger brush can be used with a non-foaming enzymatic
toothpaste manufactured for dogs.
Treatments should be done daily or at least every other day, depending
on the current problems. Only a few areas are particularly susceptible
to plaque and calculus formation. The areas of greatest concern are
the canines and upper back molars (side facing cheeks).
Chlorhexidine penetrates gum tissue and prevents bacterial growth,
plaque build-up, gingivitis, and bad breath. In addition to the
canines and molars, look at the front incisor teeth and brush away any
accumulation of hair and food at the gum line if present.
To remove existing calculus deposits, your dog will require short
general anesthesia and your dog's teeth will be cleaned with dental
instruments along with an ultra-sonic machine that vibrates the
calculus off the surface of the teeth. Calculus from under the gum
tissue is carefully removed using a hand scaler. Finally, the teeth
are polished to reduce purchase for new deposits. This can often be
done when the dog is under anasthetic for other reasons, such as
neutering.
CAVITIES, ETC
Dogs do not commonly get cavities. When they do occur, it is more
often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown. Cavities can
lead to root abscesses.
Abscessed roots often cause a swelling just below the animal's eye.
Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.
Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)
Zoonotic diseases are those that can be transmitted from animals to
people.
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these. Things to
watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.
Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
affect both dogs and humans. Again, simple hygienic precautions will
avoid most problems.
_________________________________________________________________
Ears
Your dog's ears should be clean, slighly pink-gray and have no odor.
Problems with the ear to watch for include:
* Red, irritated skin
* Dirt or wax build up
* Discharge
* Foul odor
* Frequent head shaking, or scratching/pawing at ear(s).
The most common problems with ears are ear infections and ear mites.
If an odor is involved, it's likely an infection (and not contagious
to other dogs); if the "dirt" in the ears turns red when you get it
wet, it's probably ear mites (which can spread from dog to dog). In
any case, any of the above symptoms are grounds for having the vet
check your dog's ears out.
Ear mites are treated with medication. Sometimes a reapplication is
needed. Some people have gotten rid of light infestations by cleaning
the ear out and then coating lightly with baby oil or mineral oil.
Ear infections are a little harder to treat, usually requiring daily
ear drops for a week or so, weekly drops for some time after that.
Some dogs prone to ear infections need to have ear drops on a regular
basis. Drop-eared dogs are a bit more prone to ear infections, as
prick ears normally allow more air circulation.
An easy home remedy to *prevent* ear infections (will not cure an
existing one) is:
2 T Boric Acid
4 oz Rubbing Alcohol
1 T Glycerine
Shake well. Put 1 small eyedropperfull in each ear. Rub it around
first, and then let the dog shake. Do this once a week and you
shouldn't see any ear infections. It works by raising the pH level
slightly inside the ear, making it less hospitable to bacteria.
To clean out an ear that's simply dirty (some buildup of dirt and wax
is normal, but excessive ear wax may indicate that something else is
wrong), take a cotton ball, dip in hydrogen peroxide if you like
(squeeze excess out) and wipe the dog's ear out. The canal is rather
deep, so you will not injure your dog so long as you only use your
finger to probe the canal. Clean all around the little crevices as
best as you can. Use another cotton ball for the other ear.
_________________________________________________________________
Food
There are many dog food formulations out there, ranging from
inexpensive grocery-brands to expensive premium food. You should find
out what suits your dog best: while many dogs have done just fine on
dog chow, others do much better with other foods such as Nature's
Recipe, Iams, Pro-Plan, etc.
The theory behind the more expensive foods is that they are more
digestible and contain less "bulk" and "fill." Hence, your dog will
eat less in volume (and thus the extra cost of the food is somewhat
offset) and excrete small and firm stools. You may need to experiment
to find out how your dog does on different brands. Dogs vary in their
individual reactions.
Food should be fed once or twice a day. Put the food down and take it
up again after ten to twenty minutes regardless of whether your dog
has finished eating it. This discourages "picky eating" and lets you
be certain of exactly how much food your dog is eating. Frequently, a
problem is first indicated when your dog's feeding goes off, so
scheduled feeding like this (rather than free feeding) will tip you
off to potential problems right away.
The larger or younger your dog is, the better multiple daily feedings
are; simply divide up each day's portion into individual feedings.
Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least once a
day.
VEGETABLES
Many dogs appreciate vegetables. In particular if your dog is fond of
munching on the grass, you can often alleviate this by feeding
vegetables to your dog. Stick with fresh, raw foods: carrots, broccoli
and cauliflower stems, apple cores, etc are popular. Stay away from
potatoes and onions.
PEOPLE FOOD
Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to result
in an overweight dog. Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping
down any food it can get, it may seriously poison or distress itself
someday.
EATING PROBLEMS: GULPING, ETC.
For a dog that gulps the food down so rapidly that gas is a result,
you can slow down the rate of eating by putting large, clean rocks
(3-4" diameter) in the dish along with the food.
_________________________________________________________________
Incontinence
The most common occurrence of incontinence is in the older spayed
bitch. Most often this is due to a hormonal imbalance and as such is
easily treated in one of two drugs. The traditional way is with doses
of DES (estrogen). Typically, the dosage is varied until the
incontinence stops, and often the dosage can be later reduced
altogether. Another method of treatment is with phenylpropanolamine
(PPA, brand name Dexatrim) which tightens all the muscles.
DES replaces the hormones, restoring the hormonal balance. PPA works
independently of the hormones and as such, may introduce new problems.
Both drugs are known to cause problems and side effects, although
typically, the level of dosage that DES is administered at for
incontinence will not cause problems. At high dosages, DES is thought
to be linked with breast cancer and obesity. Since PPA tightens all
muscles in the body, it can potentially cause serious side effects,
especially with the heart. There is speculation that PPA is often
prescribed at dosages too high for dogs. In humans, PPA is not advised
when thyroid levels are low; this might also be a problem with dogs.
Which drug is safer for your particular spayed bitch depends on the
particular dog and her particular veterinary history. What's best for
one dog might be bad for another, depending on what other veterinary
conditions or susceptibilities she has.
_________________________________________________________________
Neutering
If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
either sex.
Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
spayed and dogs are castrated. However, general usage is that bitches
are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.
Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.
However with some dogs it can alleviate some factors that make it more
difficult to train. But you cannot expect to neuter your dog and have
it turn into an angel without any work.
Tip: let your dog eliminate before taking it in and again after
getting it back. Many dogs, especially crate-trained dogs, will not
eliminate in the vet's kennels during their stay.
CASTRATION
Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
close it up. The scrotum will shrink and soon disappear after
castration. You will want to neuter the dog around six months of age,
although dogs can be neutered at any time after this. For example stud
dogs are typically neutered after they are too old to breed, and they
suffer no ill effects. Some clinics may use a local anesthetic
instead.
SPAYING
Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
are removed). She must be put under general anesthesia. A large patch
of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the incision)
off the lower abdomen. You may have to take your bitch back in to
remove the stitches. From a health point of view, the earlier the
bitch is spayed, the better. Ideally, she should be spayed before her
first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related cancer
(e.g., breast cancer) later in life considerably; not to mention
guaranteeing no unwanted puppies. The most dramatic rise in risk of
cancer occurs after the second heat or two years of age, whichever
comes first before spaying. After that, while the risk is high, it
does not rise further.
POST-OP RECOVERY
You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
its stitches, and consult your vet if it does. You might, in
persistent cases, need to get an Elizabethan collar to prevent the
animal from reaching the stitches. Puffiness, redness, or oozing
around the stitches should be also reported to the vet. Some stitches
"dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
removal.
For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
section on neutering in Assorted Topics.
COST
The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done. There
are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption. Local animal
clinics will often offer low-cost neutering. Be aware that spaying
will always cost more than castrating at any given place since spaying
is a more complex operation. Vets almost always charge more than
clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often keep
the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on any
later complications. Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.
Pet Assistance has a program to help you locate low-cost neutering.
There may be an 800 number, but the San Diego number is 619-697-7387.
They can refer you to a veterinarian in your area who will perform
low-cost spaying or neutering.
EFFECT ON BEHAVIOR
There is an extensive discussion on the effect neutering has on a
dog's behavior in the Assorted Topics chapter of the FAQ. In summary,
no one really knows, and for every example presented, a
counter-example can be made.
_________________________________________________________________
Overheating
Dogs are not as good as people in shedding excess heat. You should
take general care during hot and summer weather that your dog does not
get too hot. Make sure shade and water is available and that there is
some fresh air. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN A CAR on a hot day! Cars heat
up much more quickly than you think and that one inch or so of open
window will not help. If you park in the shade, the sun may move more
quickly than you think. A water-filled pump sprayer can help keep your
dog cool. But your best bet is to prevent overheating.
Heatstroke is indicated by some or more of the following symptoms:
* rapid or heavy breathing
* bright red tongue
* thick saliva
* vomiting
* bloody diarrhea
* unsteadiness
* hot, dry nose
* legs, ears hot to touch
* extreme: glassy-eyed, grey lips
Wet the dog down gradually using cool, not cold water. Get it out of
direct sunlight. Give it a little cool water to drink at a time. Cold
compresses to the belly and groin helps. Get the dog to the vet. A dog
that has had heatstroke before can be prone to getting it again.
_________________________________________________________________
Puberty
BITCHES
In general, a bitch can start her first estrus, or "heat" between the
ages of 6 months to 18 months. If you know when her dam first went
into heat, that will give you a good indication of what to expect with
your puppy. It is often felt that the larger breeds take longer to
enter heat than the smaller ones felt, but familial patterns, if
known, are a more reliable indicator.
The first signs of estrus include: a small amount of clear discharge,
a modest swelling of the vulva (the external genital fold), and
increased licking of the area. Some bitches have a shortened attention
span. This period can last from 4 to 14 days. Other dogs will show an
interest in licking the area (as opposed to just smelling it) as well.
The next stage includes bloody discharge, which can be anything from a
few spots of blood to leaving a trail behind as they go, and increased
swelling of the vulva. The nipples will enlargen somewhat. This period
can last anywhere from 4-14 days as well. At the end of this stage,
the vulva is at maximal size.
At this point the bitch is fertile and ready to be bred, and will
accept male dogs. This stage lasts for several days. After the first
heat cycle, the bitch's vulva and nipples will shrink down, but not to
the puppy size that they were before.
However, there is much individual variation. Some bitches can show
little or no sign of being in season throughout much of their estrus
cycle. Some will always accept male dogs (even when they are not yet
fertile) and others never accept them.
Spaying is generally done when the bitch is not in season. The
increased vascularity (higher blood flow) in the organs makes the
operation more risky. In addition, such an operation would alter the
balance of hormones in the dog's body rather abruptly, a potential
source of problems. However, it can be done, and often is if the bitch
winds up unintentionally pregnant, for example.
DOGS
Male puppies are born with undescended testicles, just like human
males. Somewhere between 4 months to a year, the testicles will
descend, although you should be able to feel the testicles from about
7 weeks onward. At about this time the levels of testosterone are
peaking. An intact male dog between 10 and 12 months of age has about
five times the testosterone level he will have in his final adult
intensity, if he is not neutered!
Male puppies will urinate like female puppies (by squatting) until
about the time their testicles descend, and then will generally start
to urinate standing up. Initial confusion is normal at this stage: be
prepared for the puppy to raise the wrong leg, try to raise both legs,
try to walk at the same time, or even try to use people as a "post"!
You can encourage him to restrict his marking by praising him when he
marks an acceptable item and scolding him when he is not. Discourage
him from marking when you are on a walk; get him to mark around your
yard as much as possible. (Marking, as opposed to urinating, is when
only a small amount of urine is deposited.) Neutering early may or may
not affect this behavior.
If a dog has only one testicle, he is monorchid. If he has one
undescended testicle, he is cryptorchid (unilateral); two undescended
and he is cryptorchid (bilateral). Popular but incorrect usage calls
the dog with one undescended testicle monorchid and two undescended
cryptorchid. Granted, you may not be able to tell whether a dog is
monorchid or has unlateral cryporchidsm without exploratory surgery.
Undescended testicles often become cancerous and should be removed.
Furthermore, such dogs should not be bred since the condition is
hereditary.
_________________________________________________________________
Skin Problems
Remember that a dog's skin is composed of only one layer, so it is
much more delicate than a human's skin, which has three layers. A
dog's skin depends on the hair and oils on it to keep it in good
condition.
Some preventive steps:
* Keep your dog properly fed to prevent dry skin
* When bathing your dog, use dog-formulated shampoo to prevent dry
skin
* Groom your dog regularly; some problems are caused by matted hair
providing breeding grounds for a variety of skin diseases, regular
grooming also helps keep you aware of any incipient problems
* Keep your dog flea and parasite free
* Check your dog regularly for foxtails, burrs, and other sharp
objects it may pick up when outside
RELIEVING DRY SKIN
Some things to try:
* Shampoos with lanolin
* A good soak in cool water
* Non-drying shampoo: eg, Hy-Lyt EFA is non-allergenic
* Medicated shampoos may help with allergy-induced problems
* Avon's Skin-So-Soft(tm) added to the rinse water
ALLERGIES FOLLOWED BY STAPH INFECTIONS
Once a dog has an allergic reaction, it is quite common to have a
secondary staph infection. Many vets aren't familiar with this. The
staph infection may stay around long after the allergy is gone.
A vet that specializes in dermatology can be of great help in dealing
with skin problems. See if your vet can refer you to such a person.
Some studies on primrose and fish oil in helping relieve or cure
secondary infections from allergies are documented in DM, March 1992.
More information may also be obtained from writing to the RVC
Dermatology Dept, Royal College St, London. NW1.
SUMMARY TABLE
It is beyond the scope of this FAQ to examine any of these skin
problems in great detail, but here is a summary table of possible
problems. Summarized from the summary tables in Carlson & Giffin,
pages 67-69.
Itchy Skin Disorders
Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scabies | *intense* itching, small red spots, typical crusty ear tips
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Walking | puppies 2-12wks, dry flakes move from head to neck to back,
Dandruff | mild itchiness
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Fleas | itching/scratching on back, tail, hindquarters
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lice | on poorly kept/matted coat dogs, uncommon, may have bald spots
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ticks | irritation at site of bite, often beneath ear flaps or thin skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Damp Hay | severe itch from worm larvae, contacted from damp marsh hay
Itch | (regional)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Inhalation | severe itch, face rubbing, licking paws, seasonal
Allergy | also regional
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Flea Allergy| scratching continues after fleas killed, pimple rash
Dermatitis |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Contact | itching/irritation at site of contact
Dermatitis |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Allergic | repeated or continuous contact (eg flea collar),
Contact Derm. rash may spread
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Lick sores | "boredom sores", licking starts at wrists/ankles
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hormone-related Hair Loss or Poor Hair Growth
Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thyroid | loss of hair
Deficiency | (see Canine Ailments)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cortisone | hair loss in symmetrical pattern, esp. trunk, skin is thin
Excess | may also be from steroid treatments
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen | greasy hair, hair loss in flanks/abdomen, wax in ears, loss of
excess | hair around genitals, enlargened nipples, dry skin, brittle hair
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Estrogen | scanty hair growth, smooth soft skin
deficiency |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Acanthosis | hair loss in armpit folds, black thick greasy rancid skin
Nigrans |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Seborrhea | "dandruff", hair/skin oily, yellow brown scales on skin,
| resembles ringworm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other Hair Loss, etc
Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Collie Nose | sunburn on lightly pigmented nose, loss of hair next to nose
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Ringworm | scaly/crusty/red circular patches .5-2in diameter w/hair loss
| in center and red margin at edge (not from a worm)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic | hair loss around eyelids, mouth, front leg, young dogs
mange #1 |
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Demodectic | progression of #1, patches enlarge & coalesce, pyoderma
mange #2 | complications, affects all ages
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Calluses, | gray/hairless/wrinkled skin over elbow, pressure points
elbow sores |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
With Pus Drainage (Pyoderma)
Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy | impetigo: pus filled blisters, crusty hairless skin
Dermatitis | on abdomen, groin; acne: purple-red bumps on chin, lower lip
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hair pore | pimple-like bumps on back, sometimes draining sinus,
infection | hair loss
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Skin Wrinkle| inflamed skin, foul odor in lip fold, facial fold,
Infection | vulvar fold, tail fold
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hot Spots | in heavy coated dogs, painful inflamed patches of skin with
| a wet, pus covered surface from which hair is lost
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cellulitis | painful hot inflamed skin (wound infections, foreign bodies,
| breaks in skin)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Abscesses | pockets of pus beneath the skin, swells, comes to a head & drains
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Puppy | under 4mos, sudden painful swelling of lips, eyelids,
Strangles | ears and face, draining sores, crusts, and sinus tracts
| (prompt vet attention required, do not pop "acne")
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lumps or Bumps on/beneath Skin
(all lumps should be checked by vet even if not apparently painful)
Name Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Papillomas, | anywhere, including mouth, not painful
Warts | can look like chewing gum stuck to skin
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Hematomas | (bruises) - esp. on ears, from trauma
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Tender Knots| esp. at site of shot or vaccination, painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Cysts | smooth lumps beneath skin, slow growth, possible cheesy
| discharge, possible infection, otherwise not painful
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
Possibly | rapid growth, hard & fixed to surrounding tissue,
cancerous | any lump from a bone, starts to bleed, a mole that spreads or
lump | ulcerates, open sores that do not heal (only way to tell for
| sure is a biopsy)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
DIAGNOSING
Skin problems are not easy to diagnose and cure, but there is a lot of
research going on. Something that can help is to keep a diary for the
dog. Every day, record what the dog ate, what the weather was like,
whether it is itching or not, and anything else that might be relevant
(visitors, for instance, when it is bathed, and so forth). It's
sometimes hard to recall all the variables that might be affecting the
dog, but if you keep a diary, sometimes patterns become very clear.
_________________________________________________________________
Temperature
Normal temperature range for a dog is 100 to 103 degrees Fahrenheit.
Because dogs regulate their temperature less efficiently than people
do, there is more variation in "normal" temperature. Your dog's
temperature will be higher just after exercise, on a hot day, while
snuggled under a blanket, etc.
Dogs' temperatures are normally taken rectally. Try a digital read-out
rectal thermometer, available at any drug store. Put a little Vaseline
or KY Jelly on the tip, insert gently into the rectum (not too far),
and hold for a minute or so. The digital model has a beeper that goes
off when "done." The thermometer is easy to clean with soap & water or
wipe with alcohol.
_________________________________________________________________
Trimming Nails
Most dogs need to have nails trimmed at some point. While the vet will
often clip them for you, many dogs need their nails trimmed more often
than that to prevent injuries and other problems associated with
overgrown nails.
A tip: Look for illustrations of dog nails. Most dog care books will
have one. Cardinal (a dog products vendor) provides a small poster
that illustrates not only normal nail clipping but also how to
gradually work back the length of nails that have grown too long and
is quite informative.
CLIPPING
Use nail clippers available at pet stores. Look for the guillotine
type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your
dog's nail) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the
easier this procedure is. There is another kind that looks like
scissors with hooked tips that are also good, and may be easier to
handle (however, the blades cannot be replaced on this type).
Before cutting the nails, examine them carefully. If the nails are are
white, the difference between the nail and the pink quick is easy to
see (use good lighting). If the nails are dark, it will be much harder
to tell where the quick is, in which case you must take care.
If your dog resists having its nails trimmed, try trimming them while
you sit on a couch with the dog on its back in your lap. By putting
the dog on its back, you make the nails accessible and put the dog in
a submissive position where they are less apt to fight. As with many
things, this is easiest if you start while your dog is still a pup.
If the cutter is sharp, the nails won't crack if you cut at right
angles to the nail. that is, hold it so that the blades are on the top
and bottom of the nail, not to the sides of the nail.
Do not cut below the quick. It will be painful to your dog and bleed
everywhere. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. It will just mean
trimming more often. Clip the portion above the quick for each nail
and don't forget the dewclaws. Keep a styptic pencil on hand to
staunch any blood flow. Flour or cornstarch will help in a pinch.
Dewclaws are a "fifth" toe, positioned as a "thumb" to the rest of the
nails and they do not touch the ground. Not all dogs have them, and
they may be found on the front legs only or on all four legs. Many
dogs have their dewclaws removed when they are puppies to prevent
infection resulting from easily injured dewclaws. Some adult dogs that
regularly tear their dewclaws should have them removed. While they
take longer to heal than three-day old puppies that have had theirs
removed do, the pain of periodically tearing them and going in to the
vet to have them bandaged back up makes the surgery worth while.
GRINDING
The nail grinder avoids the potential problems of cutting the quick,
nails cracking, and sharp edges afterwards. The nails can also be
thinned, allowing the quick to recede, resulting in shorter nails and
a tighter paw.
RC Steele and other mail-order companies sell them for about $45. One
model is the Oster Pet Nail Groomer, Model 129, with two speeds. Some
dogs may be spooked by the noise. It may help to watch someone who
knows how to use it first.
FILING
You can use a wood rasp and file your dog's nails down. Also, if you
clip them, using a plain file afterwards helps smooth the edges down
and keep them neat. You can use "people files" or purchase files
shaped for this purpose.
_________________________________________________________________
Vaccinations
REGULARLY SCHEDULED SHOTS
An indispensable part of keeping your dog healthy is to keep its
vaccinations up-to-date. A table, lifted from Carlson & Giffin, shows
all the major vaccinations (at minimum) that a dog in the US should
have. Conditions in your area may necessitate additional shots; ask
your vet about them as they may not always be routinely included in
normal shot programs. DHLPP is a combination shot: Distemper, (Canine)
Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, (Canine) Parainfluenza, (Canine) Parvovirus.
Age Vaccine Recommended
--------------------------------------------------------------
5-8 wks | Distemper - measles - CPI
------------------+-------------------------------------------
14-16 wks | DHLPP, Rabies
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & annually | DHLPP
------------------+-------------------------------------------
12 mos & | Rabies
3 yr intervals |
--------------------------------------------------------------
VACCINATION FAILURE
Vaccinations may fail under the following conditions:
* vaccinations are improperly administered (should always be by or
supervised by a vet)
* the dog has some innate inability to respond
* the dog has already been exposed to the disease in question
* the puppy is too young for the vaccination to "take"
OTHER VACCINES
Not an exhaustive list: Other vaccines and preventives should also be
given such as heartworm, Lyme disease, etc, when needed. Heartworm
prevention should begin around 5 months, but then it depends on where
you live. Those living in warmer, damper areas with higher
concentration of heartworm may want to start earlier. Lyme disease
vaccine instructions recommend giving it around 12 weeks; Bordatella
vaccines (for Kennel cough) around 6 months or earlier depending on
risk.
VACCINE OVERLOAD?
Be sure your dog is safe and vaccinated against everything you think
the dog may be exposed to, however, don't overload its system! You can
do more harm than good by vaccinating your dog for everything all at
once than if you stagger the vaccinations and let the individual
immunities build up gradually.
UP-TO-DATE ON SHOTS?
Do you know what it means when your vet tells you your dog has ALL its
shots? Chances are, your dog isn't. Stay informed and read up in some
of the dog literature about what types of vaccinations your dog should
have. Then make sure your vet has administered vaccines for the
appropriate things -- it's up to YOU to make sure your dog has *all*
its shots, not your vet.
For an interesting article on vaccinations, see the May 1992 issue of
Dog World. Another thoughtful article by Christine Wilford, DVM is
in Gazette, January 1994.
_________________________________________________________________
Vomiting
One of the most common and non-specific symptoms that a dog can have.
You must look at how and what it is vomiting. If your dog vomits once
or twice and then seems its normal self, it is probably not serious.
NON-SERIOUS CAUSES
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Most commonly: overeating. Animals that gulp their food and
immediately exercise (esp. puppies) are likely to vomit. This is not
serious. Feeding in smaller portions more often helps eliminate this
problem. In particular, if the vomit looks like a solid tube of
partially or non digested food, your dog ate too fast.
Note that eating grass or other indigestible material is also a common
cause of vomiting.
TYPES OF VOMITING
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Repeated vomiting:
Its last meal is first vomited. Then a clear, frothy liquid.
This suggests a stomach irritant. Grass, spoiled food, other
indigestibles, and certain infectious illnesses (such as
gastroenteritis) all cause irritation of the stomach lining.
Sporadic vomiting:
The dog vomits off and on, but not continuously. No
relationship to meals, poor appetite. Haggard appearance and
listlessness may indicate an internal organ disorder, a chronic
illness, a heavy worm infestation, or diabetes. A thorough
checkup is called for.
Vomiting blood:
Fresh blood indicates a break in the mucus lining somewhere
between the mouth and the upper small bowel. Common causes are
foreign bodies, tumors and ulcers. Material which looks like
coffee grounds is old, partly digested blood -- the problem is
somewhere in the stomach or duodenum. Vomiting blood is always
serious and requires a trip to the vet.
Fecal vomiting:
If the vomit is foul and smells like feces, there is an
obstruction somewhere in the intestinal tract. Blunt or
penetrating abdominal trauma is another cause. The dog will
become rapidly dehydrated with this type of vomiting and
requires vet attention.
Projectile vomiting:
The vomit is forcefully expelled, sometimes for a distance of
several feet. It is indicative of complete blockage in the
upper gastrointestinal tract. Foreign bodies, hairballs,
duodenal ulcers, tumors and strictures are possible causes.
Intracranial pressure can also cause projectile vomiting,
causes can be brain tumor, encephalitis, and blood clots. Take
the dog to the vet.
Vomiting foreign objects:
Includes bone splinters, rubber balls, (pieces of) toys, sticks
and stones. Sometimes worms. You may want to have the vet check
your pet for any other foreign objects, although not all of
these will show up readily on x-ray scans.
Emotional or Stress vomiting:
Sometimes excited or upset dogs vomit. Remove the dog from the
source of distress. If it is something it will encounter often,
you will have to train the dog to remain calm around the
source.
Motion sickness:
Vomits in the car. Most dogs will outgrow this problem. Check
with your vet if it does not. See Carsickness in Assorted
Topics for further comments.
_________________________________________________________________
Worms
SUMMARY
Worm Symptoms
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
roundworms | pot belly, dull coat, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of weight
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
hookworms | anemia, diarrhea, bloody stools (esp. puppies)
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
tapeworms | "rice" on anal area or in stools, possible diarrhea/vomiting
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
whipworms | loss of weight, some diarrhea, difficult to detect
------------+----------------------------------------------------------------
threadworms | profuse watery diarrhea, lung infection symptoms (esp. puppies)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREVENTING WORMS
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin.)
The best way to deal with worms, of course, is to make use of worm
prevention techniques.
Most worms have a lifecycle that makes it easy to reinfest dogs
because only part of that lifecycle is on the dog. Steps you can take
to control worms in general:
* If you have a kennel, do not use dirt. A water tight surface that
can be hosed down is best; gravel works also. Remove stools from
pens daily.
* Lawns should be kept short and watered only when necessary. Remove
stools from the yard daily.
* Control fleas, lice, and rodents, as all these pests can be
intermediate hosts for tapeworms.
* Do not let your dog roam, as it may ingest tainted meat. Any meat
fed to your dog must be thoroughly cooked.
PUPPIES
Most puppies have worms, as some immunity to worms only comes after
six months of ages and the mother will infect them with her dormant
worm larvae. Puppies should be wormed at 2-3 weeks and again at 4-6
weeks. You should be especially vigilant for worms while your puppy is
still growing; a bad case of worms can seriously interfere with its
development. Bring fresh fecal samples in regularly to the vet for
analysis.
_________________________________________________________________
Heath Care Issues FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/misc.02.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
ASSORTED TOPICS (PART II)
Table of Contents
* Owner Allergies.
* Pet Doors.
* Pet Insurance.
* Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
+ Pet Sitting
+ Kennels
* Photographing Black Dogs
* Record Keeping.
+ Breeders
+ Titles
+ Working dogs
+ Your personal enjoyment
* Removing Odors and Stains.
+ Removing uring
+ Skunks
+ Saliva
* Separation Anxiety.
* Travel and International Travel.
+ Car
+ Travelling by plane
+ International Travel
+ Quarantines
+ Shipping
* Vicious Dogs
* Waste Composting
* Wolves and Wolf Hybrids
+ Wolves
+ Wolf-Hybrids
_________________________________________________________________
Owner Allergies.
You can go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with
specific allergies. This can be expensive, but worth it, especially if
you have other allergies as well. They'll test you for the things
you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you
develop an appropriate immunity to them (you should be aware that the
shots do not always work). Be sure to find an allergy specialist
familiar with dog allergies: there are far too many doctors out there
that will simply say "Get rid of your pets." Other approaches may be
used as well: cortisone nasal sprays, eye drops, etc. Air filters
often help, as well as reducing the amount of wall-to-wall carpeting,
if possible. Find someone who will work with your particular problem.
Different breeds may work for different people who have allergy
problems. It depends on exactly what it is about dogs that causes the
problem. Some people are allergic to the hair, but others are allergic
to the dander. Still others are not specifically allergic to dogs, but
are allergic to things like dust and the dogs provide an *additional*
irritant that is sufficent when combined with other allergens to
provoke a reaction. In yet other cases, people are allergic to a dog
licking them. You must find out which is true for your case.
Some people do well with Basenjis and Miniature Pincers and other dogs
with little or no coat. Others do well with poodles and schnauzers and
airedales who have a different type of coat. A lot of people do well
with Shih Tzus and Lhasa Apsos who, while very hairy, are supposed to
have hair much more like human hair.
This is VERY important: every dog lover with allergy problems needs to
spend some time with different breeds to find the one that doesn't
aggravate the problem.
In many cases, bathing the dog frequently, cleaning the bedding,
vacumming and closing off your bedroom will help alleviate allergy
problems. There is also a spray available that you put on the dog that
is supposed to reduce the amount of allergens they shed called
Allerpet/D Most pet stores carry the stuff, and the bottle has an 800
number you can call for more information.
_________________________________________________________________
Pet Doors.
Some points:
* Get one that at least has magnetic strips to hold the door shut.
In colder climates, you might want to consider a "double door",
i.e, the outer door must close before the inner one opens. This
would cut down on the drafts.
* Size is deceptive. Dogs don't really need as much space as you
might think to get in and out.
* Installation is usually very easy. Some models fit into patio
doors and are removable. Make sure the one you get is lockable or
blockable. If the door is hollow-core, it is trickier, because
then you have to insert a frame in the door for the pet door to
attach to.
* The wall between your garage and house is considered a 'fire wall'
and you're not supposed to cut any holes in it. In particular, it
could make fire insurance claims tricky. And if you sell the
house, you will have to fix the hole first.
* Install the door in such a place as to make it impossible for
someone to push something through it to open a door or window,
even if they can't crawl through themselves. Ideally, you should
have some way of locking or disabling the door for times when you
are gone, say on vacation.
Johnson pet doors are frequently recommended. RC Steele stocks them.
Another source is America's Pet Door Store (1-800-826-2871).
There exist electronic pet doors that are activated by a special
collar. Most of these are for cats, but there are models for dogs up
to 110lbs. These help keep unwanted animals from entering your house.
These are, of course, somewhat expensive.
Some dogs need coaxing to use the door. Prop the door open and offer a
treat from the other side. Don't try and push your dog through.
_________________________________________________________________
Pet Insurance.
Pet insurance plans are typically accident policies, although some
also cover routine medical expenses such as worming and shots (or even
grooming) -- the latter are generally a better deal.
Between the deductibles and allowances, you may not get very much back
on an actual claim. In several years of rec.pets.dogs, no reader has
come back with a favorable story on claim processing.
_________________________________________________________________
Pet Sitting and Kennel Services.
PET SITTING
In some cases, you can find friends or neighbors willing to take care
of your pets while you are gone. If you are using a professional
service as opposed to a friend or relative, try to find one that's not
just one person doing it but is a business that has several people
working for them. When it's a business with people working for them
the owners of the business are more likely to expect their people to
do a good job and be responsive to people complaining about poor
service. Watch out for the business changing hands.
Check with the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters.
Members must sign a code of ethics and can be removed if there are
complaints. They can give you a list of pet sitters in your area.
[They have MOVED; I do not have the current address!]. Their brochure
includes their code of ethics, and includes a list of what to look for
in a reputable pet sitter; see list below.
Another one is Pet Sitters International. It was founded by the
original founder of the now defunct NAPS, Patti Moran. The address and
phone number of PSI is:
Pet Sitters International
418 East King St.
King, NC 27021
(910) 983-9222
Ask the company if they're bonded or insured. See if they'll send
someone more than once a day. Ask for references from previous and
current customers. Some will bring the paper and mail in and help make
the place look "occupied;" that's a plus.
Check the potential sitter for the following:
1. Does the pet sitter furnish written literature describing services
and stating fees?
2. Does the pet sitter visit the home beforehand to meet with the
client and pet to obtain detailed information?
3. Does the sitter arrive on time?
4. Does the sitter get along with your pet? Does the sitter exhibit
confidence and ease with your pets?
5. Is the pet sitter courteous, interested, and well informed?
6. Does the sitter have written references?
7. Is the sitter willing to give you names and numbers of former
clients for references?
8. Does the pet sitter have a service contract which spells out
services the pet sitter will provide and fees for doing so?
9. Are the company and/or sitter in good standing with the Better
Business Bureau?
10. Does the pet sitter have regular office hours or return customer
inquiries promptly?
11. Is the sitter recommended by someone you trust - either your vet,
trainer, dog show buddies, etc?
12. Does the pet sitter have a veterinarian on call for emergency
services?
13. What contingency plan for pet care does the pet sitter have in the
event of inclement weather or personal illness?
14. Does the company have a training program for their sitters?
15. How does the pet sitting service recruit and screen applicants?
Are there any prerequisites for employment?
16. Does the pet sitter or pet sitting service telephone to determine
if the client has returned home as scheduled or require that the
client notify the company or pet sitter of their arrival home?
17. Does the pet sitter or company provide a rating form for customer
feedback and evaluation of pet sitting services?
18. Does the pet sitting service have an established system for
handling customer complaints?
19. When does the sitter get paid? Before or after you come back? A
deposit up front and the rest later?
Try to find word of mouth recommendations. You might try calling
several vets in your area to see if they have any recommendations.
Check with the local SPCA and with Better Business Bureau for any
specific complaints lodged with a particular business.
KENNELS
Look around for a good one. Experiences can be good or awful depending
on the kennel.
One resource: The American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA) is based
in Colorado Springs. You can use this organization to help you choose
a kennel. If you write to them (or call them), they will send you a
small packet of information. One part is a booklet on how to choose a
kennel, and another part is a list of all ABKA accredited kennels
around the country.
An ABKA kennel is supposed to meet a minimum set of criterion that is
spelled out in their literature. The things they suggest you look for
and questions to ask involve a lot of common sense stuff, but there
are good suggestions you might not think of.
4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A
Colorado Springs, CO 80915
719-591-1113
_________________________________________________________________
Photographing Black Dogs
Information compiled by Ruth Ginzberg, lightly edited by moi.
Many people with black dogs have trouble getting a good photo of the
dog. Some of the characterizations of how the photos turn out: "large
black blob", "no, large black blob with pink tongue sticking out of
it", "large black blob with eyes" (you get the idea).
If you want a few QUICK HINTS on how to address this problem, here
they are, as summarized well by Dennis Swanson:
1. set the camera to underexpose by two stops from what it
recommends, if possible
2. whether this is possible or not, tell the photofinisher to forget
the background and print your dog black but with detail in the fur
3. for photos to be scrutinized by possible clients, have them done
by a professional
If you want more detailed information, keep reading. :-)
Andy Kane has some advice about selecting a photo finisher:
With 10 years of experience there is one answer to your question
about black dogs being too dark and magenta(pink). Take your
negatives to a local film processor, one that prints in lab, and
wait for the results. If you get the same result ask them to please
reprint your negative at -1 magenta and -2 denisty from where they
have it right now. I do this work for a living. What normally
happens is with the new scanners in print processors the total area
of the negative is scanned and averaged for color and denisty.
Therefore a black dog will print a little dark and if the background
is grass (green) the the scanner will tend to over compensate and
give you an dog with a little magenta tink(pink). The same holds
true for the other problem print of a portrait of a person wearing a
red shirt, in this case the flesh tones result a little cyan
(blue,geen) the opposite of the red shirt. I see this black dog case
everyday and I hope that I correct for it everytime but even good
processors can miss and will be more than happy to redo your print
at no charge to you. You can not get this kind of service from drug
store or mail service processing labs. Good luck
Ty Monson sympathizes with our difficulties, noting that photographing
black animals is not a problem only for we amateurs:
Seriously, photographing black dogs, cats, cattle, llamas, etc. is
difficult. The difficulty is compounded by shooting color negatives
and relying on Qualex (or other popularly-priced photo finisher) to
produce the prints.[see above for advice] Assuming that a person is
taking snapshots for the family album, I can recommend setting your
pet against a dark background as a starting point. When the main
subject and background are both dark, the printer will lighten the
print.
You will get more detailed features on the dog in the photo this way,
but your dog will look lighter colored than s/he actually is. Jimmy
Tung explained why this happens:
First assuming that you're using negative film, and just some basics
for everybody: The camera doesn't see a black dog. It sees an
average object which must be kinda average grey (18% if you like) in
color. So the meter will tell you something which will overexpose
the pic, giving you a grey dog, as well as washing out the
background. In the original post, the dogs were described as big
black blobs with pink tongues, etc. If the photofinisher looks at
the negative described above, he'll say "gee, these people would
rather have a good looking background", so they start tweaking the
density and color balance until you end up with all of the other
colors OK, and a black dog, except now your black dog is too black,
and it looks featureless.
Marc Clarke expanded on this, explaining that:
The problem probably comes from the fact that Through The Lense
(TTL) camera meters try to render whatever reflective surface they
are pointed at as an 18% gray. If you point a TTL camera's meter at
a white house (or dog), the meter will indicate the amount of
exposure you need to make the side of the white house appear as 18%
gray. If you point the TTL camera's meter at a black dog, the meter
will indicate the exposure you need to make the black dog appear as
an 18% gray dog. TTL meters are really good at telling you what
exposure to use for 18% gray things. TTL meters are lousy at
directly telling you what exposure to use for black or white things.
Ty suggests some ways you can try to get around this problem:
Oh, but you DID want the dog to look BLACK? Black is the (relative)
absence of light. The trick is to get enough gloss (luster, glare)
off the animal's fur to define shape, without washing-out the
blackness. Two things a snapshooter can do is photograph your pet
1/4 side lighted from a window (overcast day) or set a piece of
white poster board next to the animal (out of the camera's field of
view.) A white wall may work, too. ... Be inventive. Look! The
camera lens sees what your eye sees. If the lighting doesn't model
your pet's form, the film won't record it.
Oh, yes. Your black-petted friends will probably need to abandon the
camera's built-in flash. A flash with a head that can be rotated for
bounce flash can be made to work. It will take some experimenting,
though.
...and Tom Wagner added:
If you are taking flash photos, that is another problem for
automatics. My personal advice is do not take flash photos of pets.
Use a high speed film and whatever available light you have. Because
pets have better night vision you will get a lot of "Red Eyed
Shots."
Jimmy also mentions the importance of lighting:
Check your lighting, and make sure that details of the dog's coat,
eyes, etc. are large and visible. That is, assuming you don't have
off-camera flash equipment, position lamps and camera so that light
is reflected off the glossy coat. That way, the dog doesn't look
flat without the other visual cues our mind supplies, but the camera
doesn't.
Ellen McSorley's husband, Jonathan, who has experience photographing
dogs, evidently with better equipment than many of us have, notes that
even different breeds of black dogs offer different problems:
... Labs have glossier fur than Newfs. You've still got to have lots
of light, so flash or spot metering is a must. I think ideally I'd
go for off-axis flash, or a diffuser, or maybe a flash umbrella,
something to give lots of light but not from a bright point source
which is going to reflect straight back into the camera. That might
make it look like the dog has Mylar (reflective plastic) bits in its
coat (although that would be an interesting effect, and direct flash
works on the Newfs because their coats aren't so glossy).
Jimmy also mentions that:
Some films are specifically color balanced for skin tones or bright
colors or deep rich blacks and browns. I don't have a recommendation
off the top of my head which would be appropriate. You might find
that Fuji Reala might be well suited, but then again, Kodak Gold II
might be just as good at a fraction of the cost. Ask your local
photo supply store.
and Stephen Samuel reminds us that:
... if you have a black dog and a white human in a picture with the
same lighting, AT LEAST ONE OF THEM is going to end up looking
poorly lit. Creative lighting is required. [A classic suggestion is
to put the human in the shade and the dog in the sun.]
BUT, no matter what you do with the lighting or the processing, it
seems from what many people say that eventually you are going to have
to deal with the fact that the automatic grey scale metering is thrown
off by a black (or white) dog who makes up the largest part of the
photo.
Tom Davis (who says his dogs are Golden, to match his carpet) offers a
suggestion for those with very automatic cameras:
I'd guess that if a black dog fills a significant amount of the
frame, it will wind up over-exposed by quite a bit, so if your
camera has exposure compensation, you can set it to under-expose to
compensate. Some cameras are totally automatic, so you're just out
of luck. If you don't have exposure compensation, you can sometimes
lie to the camera about the film speed. To make it under-expose,
tell it you've got faster film.
For samoyeds and great pyrenees, do the opposite. Well, at least for
clean ones.
But for those ready to grapple with light metering, Marc Clarke
suggests:
There are several different ways to get around this. First, meter
something that is actually 18% gray in the same light that falls on
the black dog. This gray card gives your meter something that
actually is 18% gray. The black dog will show up as black (not
gray). These gray cards are available in any photography store,
usually in the book rack. Second, use an incident light meter. These
meters read the light that is falling onto the subject rather than
the light reflecting off the subject. They indicate the same
exposure as a TTL camera's reflectance meter reading the light
reflected off an 18% gray card. You can fake a gray card by using
your TTL cameras meter and metering the light falling onto your open
hand, then opening up one more stop. A hand (in fact, nearly all
Caucasian skin) is about 1 stop brighter than an 18% gray card.
But Brian Segal points out that:
Your reflective meter will indeed want to show the dog as 18% grey
if you simply rely on that reading. If you want about 5 stops of
exposure latitude, then meter the dog's fur and stop down 1.5 to 2.0
stops. If you stop right down to dense black there will be no detail
of the fur.
An incident reading will work more or less, but you really want a
precise reading of the fur itself as it has its own reflective
properties.
Dave Miller kind of summed it all up with:
UNDEREXPOSE BY TWO STOPS. That's it. Doesn't matter what camera you
use. All a camera is is a light tight box to hold film.
[...]
The meters (for the most part) all work the same way and try to give
you an 18% grey which is about 2 stops brighter than most black
dogs. If the dog is brightly lit, then it might be only 1 to 1.5
stops darker...
Well, there you have it.
Finally, Ty Monson gives the following (blunt, but probably correct)
advice in response to a question about stud services or breeders who
are photographing their dogs for the benefit of prospective clients:
Breeders ought to have a skilled photographer produce the photos for
showing prospective clients. No business is represented well with
amateurish snapshots.
Many thanks to the nice folks from rec.photo who offered their
expertise to us sentimental dog lovers, who never can seem to have too
many photos of our pets -- even when they do just look like large
black blobs with tongues!
_________________________________________________________________
Record Keeping.
BREEDERS
You should not rely on AKC to keep all your records straight. Breeders
MUST keep official records on their dogs. There are numerous fines
listed in the back of the Gazette for failure to maintain proper
records. If you don't have your own record book, you should start one.
If you are cited, you may have to start all over again with new dogs.
That means that all the dogs you breed lose their AKC registrations.
The AKC screws up a lot of things. That's why it is so important that
breeders keep good files for their own breed club's use.
Breeders need to keep records in a book about their breeding dogs.
This includes the dog's registered name, number, sex, color, markings,
date of birth, and OFA, CERF etc. Every time that dog is bred (either
male or female) the date, the name of the other dog, the number of the
other dog, and the number of the owner of the other dog goes into it.
When the puppies are born, the number of puppies, sexes, colors,
markings, date of birth and litter number is added. The breeder's
name(s) is also included. On the litter registration form, the
information is reprinted to get the individual registration forms.
When the puppies are placed in a home, the new owner's name, address
and phone number go into the proper places. (You can order these books
from the AKC -- they are called "Dog Ownership and Breeding Record"
books and they cost about $5 -- but they have enough pages for many
dogs.)
TITLES
For titles and points, keep a small bound notebook (so that the
question never comes up whether pages have been added or removed) to
record the judge's name, the number of dogs in the classes, the number
of points, the date, the show, and the club sponsoring the show.
Record obedience trials the same way. You may want to have a folder in
which to keep all ribbons and copies of certificates and pedigrees
along with a few pictures of the dog. You just need to have a record
of your own -- like your check book -- to make sure someone doesn't
goof up. Two records are better than one!
WORKING DOGS
Dogs that work: e.g., Search and Rescue dogs, Police dogs, Disaster
dogs, any that work in potentially liable situations or do work that
may be challenged in court should have an ongoing record of their
training and of actual cases. Note date and time, individuals involved
in the training, the purpose of the training, how the training session
was set up, how the dog did, and where it needs to improve. For an
actual case, note all the specifics involved: who you talked to, where
you got the scent article or other applicable information from, who
was found/rescued/attacked, etc. If you can, go back and take pictures
of the trail followed or other useful sites. Keep training and actual
case records separate.
If, for example, an SAR dog's identification of a felon comes into
question, that record may prove the difference as to whether the
evidence is ruled admissible or not. In contrast to the above for
titles, keep training and case records in a loose-leaf binding, so
that only the record pertinent to the case need be forwarded to the
lawyers.
YOUR PERSONAL ENJOYMENT
Anyone training a dog may find it useful and interesting to keep a log
of their dog's progress in training. In particular, it might help you
uncover patterns unique to your dog, or suggest other ways to approach
training.
_________________________________________________________________
Removing Odors and Stains.
REMOVING URINE
For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot
Shot is one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for
about ten minutes and blot it up.
If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.
To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that
has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light).
Urine fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware
stores. There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater
to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV
source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the
shortwave lamp used for tanning.
Enzymatic products
Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number
on bottle); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright!
(carpet, 214-438-0397); Resolve (carpet, perhaps other items); Odor
Mute (originally for deskunking dogs, has other applications, leaves
white residue, works on concrete, 507-642-8529). Odor Abolish, by
Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful. These products use enzymes
to break down the odor causing compounds in urine and feces, and are
quite effective. From: d...@pruxl.att.com {Doug Monroe) When using
enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted enzymes,
let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and *keep the
area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions, including
enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures. Unfortunately,
most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F (38-39C)-- so
not TOO hot. Try covering the area with towels soaked in plain water
after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or other plastic over
that to make sure the area stays moist. The enzymes in laundry
products are reportedly the same as those in the expensive
odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work
just as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery
laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have to
SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from drying out. The smelly
area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours or more.
Launderable items
On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar
and no detergent, then wash again as usual.
Concrete
If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been
soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very
porous. You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the
concrete properly. A specialty cleaning service is probably the best
way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and
other cleaners may help, but only temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed to
work on concrete. Improving the ventilation may also help. In extreme
cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the
original concrete will solve the problem.
Hardwood floors
Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to
clean. First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's
Miracle to remove the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at
your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees
on what is available. You will need to remove any varnish or
polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain
it, and then apply the protective coat. There are also professional
companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you may have to
replace the wood.
Yard
For your yard, gypsum is supposed to help lawns cope with urine. This
is found in Jerry Baker's Plants are Still Like People.
SKUNKS
Some dogs just seem to like to tangle with skunks. Others only
encounter one once or twice in their lives. Either way, there are some
techniques for dealing with a skunked dog.
The important thing is to get the skunk oil off a quickly as possible
and don't let the dog spread the oil around. Also, the skunk smell
seems to be easier to get rid of the sooner the dog is washed.
To get rid of the smell - try vinegar diluted with water. Douches work
(they contain vinegar), but the perfumes may irritate some dogs' skin.
Massengill in particular is often highly recommended. Soap the skunked
areas, then apply the vinegar - let it sit a little while, and then
soap again. Don't get the vinegar in the dog's eyes. Try also: diluted
lemon juice and a dishwashing detergent (Dawn is generally
recommended) to cut the grease.
There is a product available called SKUNK OFF.
If your dog's been thoroughly sprayed, don't expect to get all the
smell out with a bath but what smell is left will go away faster.
SALIVA
The watery, tasteless liquid mixture of salivary and oral mucous gland
secretions that lubricates chewed food, moistens oral walls, and
contains enzymes that function in the predigestion of starches.
The enzymes are the potent operatives here that leave semi-permanent
slime trails on clothes, ceilings, walls, and table tops, depending on
your breed. Removal of high-powered slobber, especially from
polyesters and blends, can be a problem. For washable fabrics, the
cheapest pre-wash treatment is Accent meat tenderizer liberally
sprinkled on the the slobber spots (wet the spots or whole garment
before applying the Accent). Let it soak for a few minutes, then wash
as usual with laundry detergent.
_________________________________________________________________
Separation Anxiety.
Some dogs may cry and whine when you leave. Most get over it in time.
You can minimize it by not making a big deal of leaving; say good-bye,
give him a treat, and walk out. You can probably condition your dog to
accept it better by leaving for short errands and coming back soon,
possibly over the weekend when you don't have to work.
Go ahead and crate the dog while you're gone (provided it's been
crate-trained, of course). A crate can help your dog feel more secure
in its own personal space where it can't get into trouble.
_________________________________________________________________
Travel and International Travel.
You can often take your dog with you when you travel, either domestic
travel or even international travel. There are some helpful books out
there that list which hotels, motels, etc. accept dogs. These include
Touring with Towser, Quaker foods, publisher. Editions put out every
other year. Write to 585 Hawthorne Court, Galesburg IL 61401 with a
check or money order for $3 made out to Quaker Professional Services.
64 page directory.
Pets Allowed. A directory of places to stay nation (USA) wide. $10
from Modern Systems Computing, 9 Greenmeadow Dr. #FD, N. Billerica, MA
01862-1921.
Take Your Pet USA: A Guide of Accommodations for Pets and Their
Owners. Artco Publishing, 1990, 446 pages, ISBN 0-9626885-0-9,
$9.95. It lists the address, phone number, any pet restrictions, if
there's an exercise area for pets, if pet can be left unattended in
room, local attractions, lodging rates and a few local vet offices.
Travelling with Your Pet. Described as "a cross-Canada directory of
hotels and motels that welcome pets," it's also full of helpful tips
on what to do when travelling with a pet. The guide is updated
annually. The price is $6.95 (CND) plus tax. Write to: Travelling with
Your Pet 43 Railside Road Don Mills Ontario, Canada M3A 3L9. You can
call them (from Canada) at 416-441-3228 or send them a fax at
416-441-3212.
_________________________________________________________________
By the way: BE SURE TO CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG! Especially when
travelling -- many hotels begin to refuse dogs after continually
finding dog feces all over their lawns, etc afterwards. Get a
pooper-scooper or a plain plastic bag and clean up after your pooch!
Those following you afterwards will thank you.
_________________________________________________________________
CAR
Most dogs love travelling in the car. Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness. Any dog travelling in a car should be restrained
in some manner, both for its safety and yours. Dogs can travel in
carriers, probably the best option. There are available barriers which
can keep your dog in the back seat (this works especially well with
station wagon type of cars). There are restraining leashes available.
Riding in the back of a truck is just asking for trouble, as the dog
will almost always be killed if it is thrown from the truck in even a
minor accident. There are also restraining leashes for dogs in open
pick-up truck beds. Some states have laws against dogs riding in the
back of a pick-up.
Car sickness, fear
Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of. Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.
Do not sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it. While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear. If that is the
case, doing anything that the pup can possibly interpret as praise
can be counterproductive. It will teach it that this fear is the
desired behavior. If the car sickness if brought on by such fear and
it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior, the
car sickness will continue.
TRAVELLING BY PLANE
The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs. Many of the comments should be common sense --
such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc. The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.
One pet is allowed in each cabin. Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed. This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two people
who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in the
same cabin. A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view from
the other sections either with a door or a curtain.
As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals. They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals. Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes. A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area. Other airlines have varying reputations. In general a
direct flight is safest.
There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet." It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue. Northwest asks
owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of the
kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably by
Northwest personnel). The caveats and conditions are enlightening to
read.
Other references: The Conde' Nast Traveler (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.
Tips when travelling by plane:
* Buy flight insurance. It's not much if something actually happens
to your dog, but stay away from airlines that won't insure their
own transportation of animals! Cost is typically $20 for $5000
coverage.
* Some airlines are more highly recommended than others. Delta is
frequently praised, Continental frequently condemned. Whichever
airline you use, always arrange a direct flight.
* Many airlines will sell you crates for extremely good prices. If
you need a crate, buy one here.
* Get all vaccinations up to date two weeks before the flight, and
take the records with you if you're also going. Otherwise, add
your vet's name and phone number to the information on the crate.
Parvo boosters and "kennel cough" (bordetella) vaccinations are
especially recommended.
* Make reservations early. Most planes have room for three dogs or
less per flight.
* Write your name and phone number on the crate with a permanent
marker. Attached paper is frequently gone by the time the crate
arrives. Also write name and phone number of person to contact
upon arrival on a piece of duct tape on the crate.
* Solid plastic or metal crates are preferable to the wire crates.
They keep more things out of the crate than the wire ones do. Make
sure there is a rim around the edge that prevents adjacent boxes
from covering up the air holes.
INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL
Paperwork
Most states/provinces/regions require a health certificate and proof
of rabies vaccination for pets crossing boundary lines. Most airlines
will require this regardless of where you go within the country. Any
dog that is travelling somewhere else should have a copy of its
medical history, especially its vaccinations with it.
QUARANTINES
Britain
A 6 month quarantine for all animals.
Hawaii (prepared by Carol Newby )
Because Hawaii is a rabies free state, there is a mandatory 120 day
quarantine for dogs, cats, and other carnivorous animals. The
information below is compiled from the information package that is
available from the Animal Quarantine Station (AQS). To request further
information please write or call:
State of Hawaii
Dept of Agriculture
Animal Quarantine Station
99-951 Halawa Valley Street
Aiea, Hawaii 96701-3246
FAX: (808)483-7161
PHONE: (808)483-7151
The AQS facility is for animals moving to Hawaii, as well as animals
en route to other locations and having a layover in Hawaii. Animals
are picked up from the airport holding facility at Honolulu
International Airport and are transported to the facility by staff
members of the AQS. In the event the animal is only traveling through
Hawaii, you must call the facility 72-hours ahead of the animals
expected arrival so that arrangements can be made for pickup from and
return to the airport holding facility.
EXCEPTIONS: "Those animals entering Hawaii on direct flights from
Australia, New Zealand, and the British Isles may be exempt from the
120 day rabies quarantine after meeting pre-shipment requirements.
These areas are rabies free and have quarantine programs that are
equal to, or are more stringent than Hawaii's." "Guide dogs, special
purpose animals, and those animals under continuous veterinary care
are required to comply with Hawaii's law."
PREPARING FOR YOUR PET'S MOVE: There is an extensive list of
pre-shipment requirements that must be met in order for your pet to be
allowed into Hawaii. The list of required vaccinations and
examinations is available from the AQS. It is suggested that all
required vaccines be administered at least 14 days prior to the
animal's arrival in Hawaii. In addition, there is an Owner's Statement
that must be filled out and returned to the AQS "at least 45 days
prior to your pet's transport to Hawaii."
COST: The cost of the quarantine for a dog is about $620.00 for the
120 day period. This includes the $20.00 registration fee and the
daily fee of $5.00 (total $600.00). There are a number of related fees
that may or may not apply to you, depending on your situation. A fee
schedule is included in the information packet.
SPONSORS: If you will not be available to care for your dog while it
is in quarantine, a number of businesses can be contracted to act as
your pet's sponsor. The sponsor has the same rights/privileges as the
animal's owner. The sponsor may act on your behalf to arrange
grooming, approve medical care, have prescriptions filled, and other
required care. Sponsors and all other visitors must be registered with
the AQS by you, the owner, before they will be allowed into the
station.
MEDICAL CARE: Upon entry all animals are given an examination by the
station veterinarian, and are tested for heartworms and other internal
parasites. You will be notified of all test results. If the heartworm
test is negative, you or the sponsor will be given a prescription for
preventative medication that can be filled with a local veterinarian.
The medication can be administered by the staff, but there will be a
small fee. "You are responsible for your pet's health while in
quarantine. Owners must register with an approved [animal] hospital."
The AQS provides a list of approved hospitals in the information
packet. In the event of serious illness while in quarantine, your pet
will be transported to your selected animal hospital by "qualified
personnel for a nominal charge."
ACCOMMODATIONS: All animals are kept in temporary kennels for the
first 21 days of quarantine as this is the most crucial time for
detection of rabies. After the initial three week period, the animal
will be moved to a permanent kennel. The kennels are cleaned daily and
disinfected regularly. The size of the kennel depends on the size of
the dog. Kennel sizes are six feet wide and range from 14 feet to 26
feet in length. Each run has a sheltered area.
North America
Canada has a 4 month quarantine, except from the US, where rabies
vaccination documentation is sufficient.
South America
No quarantines, but the animal must be up-to-date on vaccinations.
Europe
Sweden has a four month quarantine; Finland has a quarantine of 3 [?]
months. Most European countries do not have a quarantine or only
require proof of vaccinations.
Australia
Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not from other
pacific islands). Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter after a 2
month quarantine. All other animals must do six months of quarantine
in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in Australia.
SHIPPING
You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons. Most people
simply ship them as cargo on an airline. This works best when the
flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at risk
of too high or too low temperatures. There is at least one company
that ships dogs. This is
Pet Transfer
(world wide door to door pet moving service)
714-660-9390 (USA)
[There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]
_________________________________________________________________
Vicious Dogs
Interestingly, up until World War II, Pit Bulls were looked upon with
favor and patriotism. They were sturdy and loyal companions. WWI
propoganda depicts the Pit Bull as manifesting American virtues. For
example one poster showed a Pit Bull with other dogs representing
their country of origin and the caption saying "Independent, but not
afraid of any of them." At the same time, the Collie was considered an
unreliable dog that would attack people without provocation.
In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
was vicious because it was impure (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
genes, whatever they are...).
What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.
Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
vicious. People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
aggressive and vicious. The result is a badly-trained dog that has
been taught to fear people. In addition, other people start breeding
these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues. But it is
important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices. Thus, penalties
should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
temperament, rather than on an entire breed.
References:
Hearn, Vicki. Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Waste Composting
Are there sanitary and effective alternatives to shoveling feces from
your backyard into your trashcan? Especially if you have multiple
dogs?
There are a number of products on the market, such as the "Doggy
Dooly", "'Liminate", etc. Reported experiences vary widely. Some were
satisfied, others could not get them to work.
The basic premise is to set up a "composting pile" that, with added
enzymes, will decompose into odorless liquid and gas wastes. Some are
elaborate affairs that require you to dig a large pit lined with
gravel and bury a container (with the lid at ground level) over the
gravel that drains the decomposed and harmless waste into the soil
below. Others are simplar plastic bucket affairs.
Pros:
* Feces don't sit in the garbage all week.
* Don't need extra bags in cleaning stools up.
Cons:
* Composters rarely work in winters with below or near freezing
temperatures.
* Despite claims of "odorless waste products", the feces in there
can smell quite badly until fully decomposed.
* Rocks and sticks can interfere with digestion.
* Usually the amount of enzyme to add is fussy: it won't work well
with either too much or too little added.
_________________________________________________________________
Wolves and Wolf Hybrids
First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves. There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.
Second, a note on whether it's possible to tell wolves from dogs
genetically:
Research in the UCLA laboratory of Drs. Robert Wayne and Michael Roy
has centered on the use of new technology to distinguish wolves and
dogs from wolf-dog hybrids. In the past, the ability to identify
hybrids was limited by the lack of known genetic markers. The new
molecular tools that UCLA is using involves regions of DNA that are so
variable, each individual has a unique DNA fingerprint.
So far the UCLA lab has found 14 markers in dogs not found in gray
wolves and 37 markers in gray wolves not found in dogs. The
information allows the researchers to examine suspected wolf-dog
hybrids for the presence of both wolf and dog markers, so that they
can determine if an animal is pure wolf, pure dog, or some combination
of the two.
The UCLA team is currently in the process of analyzing their test by
using it on a known series of wolves and hybrids in a blind study,
where the origins of the lab samples are unknown at the time of
testing. If the test proves reliable enough, the researchers plan to
make this test available to others.
WOLVES
Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry. Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.
Resources and References:
Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology. Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore. Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered. There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well. Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them. Their position is that wolf-hybrids are a
bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission. They will
provide information about hybrids to those that ask.
Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920. Phone: (317) 567-2265.
Mech, L. David. The Wolf. University of Minnesota Press, 1970. 384
pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology. David
Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly informative
and well written book.
Lopez, Barry H. Of Wolves and Men. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
Description of wolves and their relationship with humans. Not really
a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.
Crisler, Lois. Arctic Wild. New York, Harper. 1958. Mowat, Farley.
Never Cry Wolf. Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.
The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN
WOLF-HYBRIDS
_________________________________________________________________
FAQ author's note:
I disclaim any responsibility in the event you get a wolf-hybrid.
It is my personal recommendation that you not get one. What follows
is for informational purposes only and is presented here only
because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now and then
on this group. I have attempted to make a fair presentation, and
have included resources for further information.
--Cindy Tittle Moore
_________________________________________________________________
Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals before considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do. Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into. Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them. There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs. **DO NOT EVEN *CONSIDER*
GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND EDUCATION!**
What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.
Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal. As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf. A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics." Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.
In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.
Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man. The wolf, on the other hand,
has been selected to be a survivor. Most suffer from a fear, or at
least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid until
something happens to go against their instincts. The pack instinct is
very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel he is the
dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A LOT about
wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game. Also, hybrids don't always
automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.
Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior. Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable. Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not. A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it. Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no consistency
in their breeding. Not only does the percentage of wolf background
vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although they are
commonly Malamutes and Huskies. Also, since they are not bred for any
particular purpose and there are a number of backyard breeders of
WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament. Because WH are
so much more work than average dogs, and because the *potential* is
there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed anti-social
behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.
Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression. If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result. Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite. Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception. In addition, it will further damage
the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much harder, and
damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to, usually
Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.
Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby. Most obedience clubs will not
even allow wolf hybrids in classes. Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one. Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline. The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid. Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.
Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD! You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore. Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang. Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick. Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.
Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc. In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).
In particular, there is NO vaccine that is approved for use on the
hybrids and that includes rabies. They can be vaccinated but if they
bite someone they are considered by law to be unvaccinated. This means
if they bite someone, they must be destroyed, with the head sent to a
laboratory to test for the presence of rabies.
Resources:
The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists. Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations. Subscription
rate is $22.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S. Published
bi-monthly. Address is: WHT, P.O. Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.
The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid. Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which includes a bi-monthly newsletter. Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035. Phone: (615) 746-3442.
Donald H. Ashford, Treasurer
National Wolf Hybrid Association
2926 Bent Creek Road
Russellville, TN 37860
Collen Schabacker
2375 Honeysuckle Lane
Hartsville, TN 37074
The following was taken from the Instructions and Requirements of the
Registration Application.
NWHA accepted dog breeds are: Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute,
Samoyed, and accepted strains of German Shepherd. Breeds of Dogs with
an aggressive nature that would take away from the temperament of the
wolf are not allowed and will not be registered such as: (Pit Bull,
Doberman, Rottweilers, etc..). Breeds of dogs that take away the
appearance of the wolf are not allowed and will not be registered.
NWHA will register 25% and below precentage.
NWHA reserves the right to refuse to register any wolf hybrid that
does not meet the assocation's standards.
NWHA reserves the right to correct or revoke, for cause, any
registration certificate issued. Any misrepresentation and/or
violation of integrity on the application is grounds for revocation
and may result in the loss of any or all NWHA privileges.
The purpose of the registry is to bring the wolf/dog cross to
perfection by quality breeding for temperament, intelligence,
conformation and wolf-like appearance.
It is understood that all should work actively to eleminate the
promotion of poor breeding practices and operations.
_________________________________________________________________
Assorted Topics (Part II) FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/publications.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
PUBLICATIONS
Table of Contents
* Addressing Behavior Problems
* Annual Publications
* Books on Canine Health & Care
* Breed Information Books
* Canine Behavior
* Dogs and the Law
* Dog Stories
* General Care
* Herding
* Miscellaneous
* Obedience Training
* Puppies
* Research Articles on Canine Health
* Search and Rescue
* Service Dogs
* Sled Dogs
* Tracking or Trailing: Scenting
* Training Hunting Dogs
* Working Dogs (other)
NOTES:
L = British pounds sterling
$ or USD = US dollar
CA$, CND or CAD = Canadian dollar
_________________________________________________________________
Addressing Behavior Problems
Benjamin, Carol Lea. Dog Problems. Doubleday and Co. 1981. ISBN
0-385-15710-X. $13.95 hardcover.
Evans, Job Michael. The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog.
ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years. He discusses all
aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many constructive
solutions for all kinds of specific problems.
Evans, Job Michael. (1991). People, Pooches, & Problems. NY: Howell
Book House. ISBN 0-87605-783-0 (hardcover). $19.95.
Excellent suggestions for dealing with common problems between dogs
and their owners. Highly recommended.
Fisher, John. Why Does My Dog...?. Howell Book House, New York;
Maxwell Maxmillian, Ontario. c1991. ISBN: 0-87605-792.
A wide range of problems and various solutions are listed. Sometimes
the problems are solved with a change of diet, more often with
simple but effective techniques. It is written much like an
encyclopedia, each section describing a problem followed with a
series of questions and answers about the problem. In most cases,
the scenarios are supplied from actual incidents in his practice.
The author is a member of the Association of Pet Behavior
Counsellors (APBC), based in Britain and Ireland.
Johnson, Nancy E. Everyday Dog. Howell Book House, New York. 1990.
Kilcommons, Brian, and Sarah Wilson. Good Owners, Great Dogs.
Good suggestions for socializing young dogs and for working on
behavior problems with adult dogs.
Milani, Myrna M., DVM. The Weekend Dog. Signet (Penguin Books USA,
Inc.) (1985). ISBN: 0-451-15731-1 (paperback).
This book outlines practical solutions for working people with dogs.
It has excellent suggestions for understanding dog behavior,
particularly destructive or unwanted behavior. Gives all kinds of
practical solutions to the problems of adequate exercise, adequate
training, housebreaking, and so forth.
O'Farrell, Valerie. Problem Dog, Behavior and Misbehavior. Methuen.
Lots of stuff and covers many behavior problems, neurotic problems
and dog psychology.
Pryor, Karen. Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and
Training by Karen Pryor. Bantam, New York. 1985. c1984.
She presents different behavioralistic techniques for dealing with
several example situations (i.e. "Dog barks all night", "Roommate
leaves dirty laundry all over apartment," "Bus driver is rude,"
etc.) This would NOT be a good book for someone who wanted to teach
their dog to sit and come, but it discusses how the trainer's
actions "shape" the trainee's responses. Definitely a must-read for
people who are interested in "inducive" training, and should be
thought-provoking for any trainer who is thinking about training on
a higher level than "When the dog does this, give him a good collar
correction"--but experienced dog trainers will find a lot to quibble
about in what she says.
_________________________________________________________________
Annual Publications
1993 DOGS USA Annual. Published by the Dog Fancy magazine folks.
Contains great articles, beautiful photos, a list of breeders
throughout the US and Canada for nearly every breed, PLUS a list of
obedience trainers, by state. This publication (by the folks who
bring you Dog Fancy) should be in every dog-owner's library.
Dogs Annual in Canada.
This includes information on breeders and descriptions for every
breed, how to choose a breeder, directory of trainers, basic
training and health care information, and more. It is an annual that
becomes available about the first week of December, and retails for
about CND $6.
_________________________________________________________________
Books on Canine Health & Care
Good Dog! Magazine. The Dog Food Book
According to Good Dog!: Packed with solid information on shopping
for food, secrets of the business, nutrition basics, research into
ethoxyquin, allergies, bloat and much more. 79 pages but crammed
with good stuff from 5 years of Good Dog! $11.95 postpaid, send
email to goodd...@aol.com for details.
Merck Veterinary Manual
Boyle, George E. VMD and Charles L. Blood. First Aid For Dogs.
Dembner Books, 80 8th Avenue, NY, NY 10011. 1988. ISBN: 0-942637-03-8.
This book is a handy guide on how to quickly deal with injuries to
your dog before bringing him in to the veterinarian for more
complete treatment. Written in a direct, refreshing style, this book
covers emergencies from tick removals to whelping puppies ("Blessed
and Not So Blessed Events."). Tips on travelling, how to deal with
seizures, a list of poisons...a lot is packed into this trade
paperback book. Illustrated with photographs. I highly recommend
this book.
Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing
Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN:
0-87605-764-4 (hardback).
This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A valuable
book to have around.
Clark, Ross D. and Joan R. Stainer, eds. Medical and Genetic Aspects
of Purebred Dogs. Veterinary Medicine Publishing Co., Edwardsville,
KA. 1983. ISBN 0-935078-24-X. 576 pages.
For most AKC breeds and a few UKC breeds, there are sections on
* Origin & History
* Description
* Breeding and Whelping
* Recognized Problems
* Old Age
This accumulation of knowledge about the health of specific breeds
from breeders and veterinarians provides the potential dog owner
with information that can help them select a strong breed, an
informed and caring breeder, and a healthy pet.
Cole, Joanna. My Puppy is Born.
Photographs by Margaret Miller (Miller breeds Norfolk terriers,
which is the breed featured)
Evans, J.M. and Kay White. The Dogopedia: A complete Guide to Dog
Care. Henston, Ltd, England. 1985. ISBN: 0-9510620-0-X. L6.95.
An inexpensive guide to dogs.
Evans, J.M. and Kay White. The Book of the Bitch: A Complete Guide to
Understanding and Caring for Bitches. Henston Ltd, England. 1988.
ISBN 1-85054-115-0. L6.95.
Lanting, Fred L. Canine Hip Dysplasia and Other Orthopedic Problems.
Alpine Publications, Inc., CO. 1981. ISBN 0-931866-06-5.
Also available from R.C. Steele.
McGinnis, Terri DVM. The Well Dog Book, second ed. 1992.
What's nice about this book is the way it helps you to differentiate
between emergency situations and those that can wait until morning.
There is an introductory section which explains how to examine your
dog when he/she is healthy so that you will know when something is
not right.
Morgan, Joe P. DVM and Michele Stephens, DVM. Radiographic Diagnosis
and Control of Canine Hip Dysplasia. Iowa State University Press,
1985. ISBN 0-8138-1507-X.
A technical, well written book. From the preface: "written from the
eyes of a diagnostic radiologist and small animal practitioner and
is designed for the veterinary practitioner who deals with owners
and breeders in working to solve the serious problem of dysplasia.
The book is planned to assist in describing the disease to this
group. It is also hoped that the monograph will find its way into
the hands of the lay person who has a love for dogs. All technical
terms are clearly defined and most will be able to profit in their
understanding of this disease by reading this book." Replete with
x-rays. Morgan is a consultant for OFA and has reviewed over 25,000
x-rays for them. The book includes specific descriptions of
dysplasia in GSDs, Labs, Great Pyrenees, and St. Bernard, for the
first time(they say) clearly spelling out the differences between
the breeds.
Miller, Harry. The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care. Bantam
Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8
(paperback).
This small book provides a surprising amount of useful information.
A little on the "lightweight" side, nevertheless, it gives a good
outline of what you should know about your puppy or dog. You can use
this to decide how much you do know and where you need to brush up
on what you don't. Besides sections on how to select the right dog,
it covers basic puppy needs (housetraining, feeding, illnesses),
basic training, basic pet care, and a complete list of AKC breeds
(each breed illustrated with b/w drawing, thumbnail sketch included
-- good as an overview, but not very specific). Includes a section
on practical home care, listing major symptoms you should be alert
for, and listing general criteria by which you can determine a dog's
overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases and problems, gives
sketches on what may be wrong given certain symptoms. Includes
guides to nutrition, grooming, health care. (Author is Emeritus
Director, Gaines Dog Research Center.)
Pitcairn, Richard H., DVM/PhD and Susan Hubble Pitcairn. Complete
Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats. Rodale Press, Pennsylvania.
Cost is about $13.00 - readily available in book/pet/health shops.
This book is full of wonderful information about the physical and
emotional well-being of our pets, well documented, researched, and
invitingly written to get one involved and committed to a complete,
balanced approach to pet care. There is a large portion devoted to
nutrition, first defining the nutritional needs of the pet
(dogs/cats), breakdowns of proteins, carbos, vitamins, minerals,
trace elements, etc. - these by weight and condition of pet (e.g.,
from small nursing puppy to senior citizen with particular needs).
Then they compare commercial products (read the label!) with his
variety of menus, additives of powders & oils (always charted out by
weight - easy to follow); comparison is by nutritional content, cost
factors, and speed of preparation - to be honest, we all look for
convenience. There are also sections on Poisons, Disease, Being
Prepared for the Unexpected, Traveling.
Richardson, Daniel C. "The role of nutrition in canine hip dysplasia,"
The Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, May 1,
1992.
Discusses studies comparing factors such as c-section vs. natural
birth, free-feeding vs. underfeeding, and motion-restriction vs.
unrestricted mobility in puppies expected to develop CHD.
Riser, Wayne. Canine Hip Dysplasia and How to Control It. 1965.
The original experiment showed that puppies raised in 3' x 3' x 3'
cages for the first 90 days showed a drastic reduction in dysplasia
at 24 months when compared with a control group, as evidenced by
radiographs.
The study also showed that puppies raised on slippery floors, or
allowed to run, jump, climb stairs, chase balls, stand on hind legs,
etc. showed a markedly higher incidence of HD at 24 mos.
The moral of the story is: If you have a puppy which is of a breed
that has a high incidence of dysplasia, limit vigorous activity when
young.
(A more complete reference to some of the work done by Riser, Morris
and Fred Lanting is contained in the Howell 'Rottweiler' book.)
Rubin, Lionel F. Inherited Eye Diseases in Purebred Dogs.
Turner, Trevor, ed. Veterinary Notes for Dog Owners. Popular Dogs.
1991. L17.99 paper, L30.00 hardback.
Similar to the Horse Owners book.
Vanderlip, Sharon Lynn, DVM. The Collie: A Veterinary Reference for
the Professional Breeder. Zink, M. Christine, DVM, PHD. Peak
Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete. Howell Book House, 1992.
ISBN: 0-87605-757-1. Books available from the author at 1907 Eastridge
Rd., Timonium, MD 21093.
This eminently readable book goes over canine physiology, both
internal and structural. She covers how to keep your dog in general
good shape, discusses some conditioning strategies, and finally
details a number of possible impediments to conditioning your dog,
including: genetic and traumatic joint problems and lameness, the
effects of medication on your dog, and moreover lists all the things
you need to consider when trying to keep your dog fit and healthy.
Recommended for all people doing regular physical activity with
their dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Breed Information Books
The Mini-Atlas of Dog Breeds, Simon & Schusters Guide to Dogs.
Lists a variety of breeds. It does contain errors; it is an OK but
not great reference book.
Harper's Illustrated Handbook of Dogs. Harper and Row, ISBN
0-06-091198-0.
It gives a picture of every AKC dog breed and a one page description
of each breed in the back. The description covers appearance, AKC
standards, potential health problems, needs, history, temperament.
Alderton, David. Eyewitness Handbook of Dogs. Dorling Kindersly 232
Madison Ave. NY 10016. ISBN 1-56458-176-4.
Thumbnail sketches of many breeds. Photographs include both puppy
and adult representives of the breed.
De Prisco, Andrew and James B. Johnson. The Mini-Atlas of Dog
Breeds. TFH Publications, One TFH Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753
(1990). ISBN:0-86622-091-7 (hardback).
This book lists and describes over 500 breeds from around the world.
Abundantly illustrated with color drawings and photos. Includes a
short forward on what criteria you should consider in choosing a
breed, and a short description of the categories it chose to group
dogs in (slightly different from, eg. AKC groupings).
Gannon, Dee. The Rare Breed Handbook. 2nd edition. Order from JB
Wholesale.
Describes 80 rare breeds. Loose leaf format.
Hart, Lynette A. The Perfect Puppy. WH Freeman. 1987. ISBN
0-7167-1829-4.
This covers only about 65 breeds' temperaments, but makes a greater
effort to be objective than some other sources. Lists health defects
in particular breeds.
Lowell, Michele. Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer's Guide. Holt and Co.
1991. ISBN 0-8050-1892-1.
Far more comprehensive than Hart's book, with useful warnings about
health defects to watch for in specific breeds.
Mandeville, John J., and Ab Sidewater, eds. The Complete Dog Book:
official publication of the American Kennel Club. Eighteenth
edition. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York.
1992.
This is the reference for the AKC breed standards, each of which
covers several pages and includes a black and white photograph and
text on the breed's history, characteristics, and nature. The health
section is not illustrated, but is otherwise excellent as it was
prepared with the cooperation of the faculty of the School of
Veterinary Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania. Newly
admitted breeds, such as the Shar-pei, have been added to this
edition.
Sylvester, Patricia, ed. The Reader's Digest Illustrated Book of
Dogs. Revised edition. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.,
Pleasantville, NY. 1989. ISBN 0-89577-340-6. 384 pages.
Besides the excellent text and illustrations in the album, which
cover 2 pages for each breed (175 total), the informative sections
are also well-written and illustrated and include many color
photographs as well. This is a good general reference on dogs, and
is especially helpful when choosing a breed to own. The health
chapters are invaluable to non-veterinarian owners.
Taylor, David. The Ultimate Dog Book. 1992.
This is another breed book. Largely coffee-table material, its
distinguishing feature is the outstanding quality of photography.
Each breed featured has a two page spread, with photos of the dog
that include: full side view, side of head, front of head, and
variations within that breed (eg, coloring, though surprisingly the
Labrador Retriever entry only shows a black Labrador). This is worth
getting for the picture quality alone, but not necessarily as an
extensive breed guide in its own right.
Tortora, Daniel F. The Right Dog For You. Fireside, Simon & Schuster
Trade Books. 1983. ISBN 0-671-47247-X.
Offers a complex decision procedure, with lots of questionnaires to
alert you to the potential significance of various features of breed
behavior and physical characteristics. This is one of the few books
that will discuss, candidly, negative aspects of a particular breed.
Wilcox, Bonnie and Chriss Walkowicz. Atlas of Dog Breeds. TFH
Publications.
Over 900 pages long in large format. The authors are top notch
writers and did extensive research to compile this comprehensive
resource of the world's dog breeds. The book is profusely
illustrated with excellent quality photographs and a 3-5 page
article. This book makes a good effort to show every color and every
coat type of each breed in the various photos. Expensive.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Behavior
Fox, M. W., and J. W. Spencer. 1967. Development of the delayed
response in the dog. Anim. Behav. 15:162-68.
Fuller, J. L., C. A. Easler, and E. M. Banks. 1950. Formation of
conditioned avoidance responses in young puppies. Am. J. Physiol.
160:462-66. Houpt, Katherine A., VMD, PhD and Thomas R. Wolski DVM.
Domestic Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists,
1982, pp. 235-238.
Discusses studies on breed differences in learning ability or, at
least, in acquisition and performance of various tasks. Contains
references to similar studies.
Lynch, J. J., and J. F. McCarthy. 1967. The effect of petting on a
classically conditioned emotional response. Behaav. Res. Ther.
5:55-62.
Shewell, P.C and J.D. Nancarrow. Dogs that bite. British Medical
Journal, 1991. 6816:1512-13.
The article contains statistics of cases treated at West Midland
Regional Plastic and Jaw Surgery Unit, Wordsley Hospital, during the
period 1982-1989. The review of the article indicates that the most
common situation that causes dogs to bite is a child coming to visit
a family with dogs where the child immediately approaching the dog
and hugging it. It is also worth noting that Dobermans and
Rottweilers only caused 7% of all cases.
Stanley, W. C., J. E. Barrett, and W. E. Bacon. 1974. Conditioning and
extinction of avoidance and escape behavior in neonatal dogs. J. Comp.
Physiol. Psychol. 87:163-72.
Vogel, H. H., Jr., J. P. Scott, and M.-'V. Marston. 1950. Social
facilitation and allelomimetic behavior in dogs. I. Social
facilitation in a non-competitive situation. Behaviour 2:121-34.
Woodbury, C. B. 1943. The learning of stimulus patterns by dogs. J.
Comp. Psychol. 35:29-40.
Coon, K. 1977. The Dog Intelligence Test. New York: Avon, 90 p.
Fogle, Bruce. The Dog's Mind.
This appears to be the best, most comprehensive book summarizing
current research on canine psychology and behavior. You won't find
much in the way of how-to instructions, but you will find alot of
hard facts on every aspect of the canine mind and personality. This
book is well-written and very readable even by the layperson.
Honore, Erika K., and Peter H. Klopfer. A Concise Survey of Animal
Behavior. Academic Press, 465 S. Lincoln Dr., Troy MO 63379. c1990.
An in depth academic approach to helping people understand and
appreciate animal behavior, including dogs.
_________________________________________________________________
Dogs and the Law
Jordan, Cora. Neighbor Law: Trees, Fences, Boundaries, and Noise.
Nolo Press. ISBN: 0-87337-158-5.
Dog problems can stem from, be exacerbated by, or lead to
more-general feuds with the neighbors. This book makes a good
companion volume to Randolph's Dog Law.
Randolph, Mary. Dog Law. Nolo Press, 950 Parker St., Berkeley CA
94710 (800)992-6656. ISBN 0-87337-078-3. $12.95.
Author is an attorney. "... Dog Law answers common questions on
such topics as biting, barking, veterinarians, leash laws, travel,
landlords, wills, guide dogs, pit bulls, cruelty and much more."
Strand, Rod and Patti. Hijacking the Humane Movement. Doral
Publishing, 1993 ISBN 0-944875-28-9
This is a book which assembles in one place a number of topics which
will be of very great interest to dog and cat breeders, especially
in light of HSUS's suggested moratorium on breeding.
The Strands, AKC Judges and journalists, have placed the animal
rights movement in historical and philosophical perspective. This
174 page paper back covers such topics as AR in the UK, AR in Nazi
Germany, the importation of violent activism from the UK to the US
and a long list of suspect AR organizations.
There is no index, which the authors tell me was due to restrictions
on the publisher. However, there are references on a
chapter-by-chapter basis, at the end of the book. The Appendices
include the AR Platform [as proposed] as printed in 1987 in "Animal
Agenda." This includes this prophetic statement, "We strongly
discourage any breeding of companion animals, including pedigreed or
purebred dogs and cats."
The tone of the book is thoughtful, rather than strident, though it
exposes numerous examples of AR duplicity. Everyone who cares about
dogs should read this book, breeder or not.
_________________________________________________________________
Dog Stories
*. Chelsea, the Story of a Signal Dog.
This is written by a man who is a professor at Fresno State Univ. in
CA. It's the utterly charming story of his own attempts to adopt and
train a dog to be his signal dog (he is deaf) and then, years later,
he goes on to get a CCI dog. This book does a great job of helping
you understand how the deaf community functions in a hearing world,
and how they perceive themselves.
Cohen, Barbara and Louise Taylor. Dogs and their Women. 1989, ISBN
0316-15036-3.
Lots of good stories.
Goode, Angela and Mike Hayes, eds. Great Working Dog Stories and
More Great Working Dog Stories. ABC Books, GPO Box 9994 Sydney, New
South Wales, Australia 2001. 1990.
These are a collection of working dog stories from Outback
Australia. Any one who loves these dogs or just loves a good dog
story should read them. The stories are a mixture of happy and sad,
all of them are true and written by the individual relating the
story. The length of each story ranges from a few lines to a couple
of pages.
Hearne, Vicki. Bandit, the Dossier of a Dangerous Dog.
Along with much philosophy, the author recounts her experiences with
pit-bulls and other "dangerous" breeds.
Kilbourn, Cheryl A. For the Love of Princess: Surviving the Loss of
Your Pet. Princess Publishing, PO Box 386, Beaverton OR 97075-0386,
1987. ISBN: 0-943367-00-X.
From back: "For the Love of Princess is a deeply moving portrayal of
the loving bond between the author and her canine companion of nine
years. When Cheryl learned that Princess had an irreversible disease
and their time together was limited, her pain began."
Yates, Elizabeth. Sound Friendships. Countryman Press, c1987.
It details the life that is led by Willa and her hearing dog, Honey.
It isn't as in-depth on the nuts and bolts as CHELSEA is but it is a
good simple read.
_________________________________________________________________
General Care
Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. Senior Years:
Understanding your Dog's Aging Process. Howell Book House. 1993.
ISBN: 0-87605-734-2.
Monks of New Skete, The. How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend. Little,
Brown & Company. 1978. ISBN: 0-316-60491-7 (hardback).
A monastery in upstate New York breeds, raises, and trains German
Shepherd Dogs. On the basis of their considerable experience, they
offer troubleshooting guides, discuss discipline, environmental
restrictions, basic and puppy training, and much more. Extensive
bibliography. The emphasis is on understanding the dog in order to
communicate with it or to solve problem behavior. An excellent, well
written classic.
Taylor, David. You and Your Dog. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
This useful book is an overall guide to the health and care of dogs.
It includes a basic listing of dog breeks (AKC). This is a good
general purpose book that gives you an idea of what all is involved
in owning and caring for a dog. Taylor gives flow-chart questions to
consider when deciding if symptoms are serious or not. An easily
understandable format. Not as comprehensive as other care books, but
a good start in understanding what you need to look for when your
dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures, such as
teeth cleaning and nail trimming. Informative discussion of
reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.
_________________________________________________________________
Herding
Holmes, John. The Farmer's Dog. Order from SHEEP!
Jones, H. Glyn. A Way of Life. Order from SHEEP!
H. Glyn Jones talks to Barbara C. Collins.
Karrasch, Dick. Training a Stockdog: For Beginners. Wondereye Farm,
Rt. 1, Box 42, Vandiver AL 35176.
O'Reilly, Chuck. Training Working Livestock Dogs. Rt. 4, Box 33B,
Red Wind MN 55066.
Robertson, Pope. Anybody Can Do It. Rovar Publ. Co., 522 East 2nd
St., Elgin TX 78621.
Templeton, John and Matt Mundell. Working Sheep Dogs. Order from
SHEEP!
_________________________________________________________________
Miscellaneous
Alston, George G. The Winning Edge, Show Ring Secrets. Howell Book
House, 1992. ISBN 0-87605-834-9.
Alston is an experienced and knowledgeable professional handler and
the book is full of great tips. Nice philosophies about dogs and dog
shows. The book is well-written and very readable.
Montgomery, Anne and Kendall Crolius. Knitting With Dog Hair St.
Martin's Press.
This is a new book about how to make use of your dog's extra hair
for knitting. The final product is *INCREDIBLE*. This looks as if it
has been made of the finest fur, which it has, in a way. This
includes tips like: How to make an afghan from your Afghan or a
beret from your Beagle: your pet can yield yarn! How to find
experienced pet hair spinners, a guide to resources and suppliers.
How to collect, clean, and store your pooch's fur
LaBelle, Charlene G. A Guide to Backpacking with Your Dog. Alpine
Publications, Inc. P.O. Box 7027 Loveland, CO 80537.
Riley, Alan. Teaching Your Dog Backpacking. Available from Black Ice
(see resources).
White, Darlene, DVM. "Eliminating the Threats of Zoonoses," in Dog
World, April 1992 (v77n4); a Maclean Hunter Publication, 29 N. Wacker
Dr., Chicago IL 60606-3298.
Hutt, FB: Genetics for Dog Breeders; W. H. Freeman and Co., San
Francisco, CA, 1979.
Lopez, Barry H. Of Wolves and Men. Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
Description of wolves and their relationship with humans. Not really
a technical discussion of wolves like the The Wolf (Mech).
Lorenz, Konrad. Man Meets Dog. 1977.
Mech, L. David. The Wolf. University of Minnesota Press, 1970. 384
pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology. David
Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly informative
and well written book.
Migliorini, Mario. Kennel Building and Management. New York, N.Y. :
Howell Book House, 1987.
Contains a bibliography. Useful tips on how to construct a dog run.
Milani, Myrna M., DVM. The Invisible Leash.
Mugford, Roger. Dr. Mugford's Casebook.
Case studies.
Neville, Peter. Do Dogs Need Shrinks?.
Case studies.
Nicholas, FW. Veterinary Genetics. Oxford University Press, New
York, NY, 1987.
Pfaffenberger, Clarence J. The New Knowledge Of Dog Behavior.
Foreword by J. P. Scott. Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, c1963.
Mr Pfaffenberger wrote this book based on his own experiences
working with the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind and
the research of Dr. J. Paul Scott of the Animal Behavior Division at
Roscoe B. Jackson Memorial Laboratory in Bar Harbor, Maine. As a
measure of the success of the work at Guide Dogs for the Blind, in
the late 1940's, only nine percent of the dogs that started training
could become responsible guides. In 1958 and 1959, all the dogs bred
and developed according to the knowledge gained by Pfaffenbarger
were as good or better than the dogs of 1946 and 90% became guide
dogs despite stricter requirements from the 1946 standard.
Scott, J. P., and J. L. Fuller. 1974. Dog Behavior. The Genetic Basis.
Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 468 p.
Serpell, James. In the Company of Animals. Basil Blackwell, Oxford.
1986. ISBN: 0-631-14536-2.
Book on pet keeping through time and across cultures.
Shook, Larry. The Puppy Report. Lyons and Burford, Pubs., New York.
1992. ISBN: 1-55821-140-3.
Larry Shook is a newspaper reporter who, despite working with an
allegedly reputable breeder, ended up with a purebred dog with a
very serious temperament problem - a problem that the breeder had
compelling reason to know about in advance. So Shook put his
professional skills to work and has written a helpful, brief book
about the dangers of 'inbreeding' and about how to avoid breeders
who'll knowingly sell dogs that are very likely to have serious
physical or psychological problems. Not surprisingly, he comes down
very hard on puppy mills and stores that sell live animals.
Surprising/shocking is some of the information he relays about the
AKC and certain common breeding practices which are, in effect,
encouraged by AKC policies.
Tellington-Jones, Linda, with Sybil Taylor. The Tellington Touch: A
Breakthrough Technique to Train and Care for Your Favorite Animal.
Viking Penguin. 1992. ISBN 0-670-82578-6.
Some of what Linda does is clearly helpful in dealing with problem
dogs and cats, but there are parts of her presentation of her ideas
that may turn people off because they seem to be a little too far
out of the mainstream. Good massage tips.
Willis, Bruce. Genetics of Dogs.
Zimen, Eric. Eric Mosbacher, trans. The Wolf: His Place in the
Natural World. (UK title).
Book on wolf behavior.
_________________________________________________________________
Obedience Training
Baer, Ted. Communicating with Your Dog. Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
Heavily illustrated with color photos. A sensible approach to laying
a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if you
don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here). Simple
instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis on
understanding and building on previous work.
Barwig, Susan. Schutzhund. Quality Press, Englewood, CO. 1978.
Bauman, Diane L. Beyond Basic Dog Training. New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.
Benjamin, Carol and Capt. Haggerty. Dog Tricks.
This book has more tricks in it than you will even dream of teaching
your dog with suggestions for the method. In the back they have a
listing by breed of tricks that are especially suitable or
unsuitable for that breed.
Burnham, Patricia Gail. Playtraining Your Dog. St. Martin's Press,
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. c1980. ISBN 0-312-61691-0 (trade
paperback).
An excellent book that describes how to use play to motivate your
dog through obedience training. She focuses on how to teach each
exercise in the AKC Novice, Open, and Utility classes. Her
philosophy, though, lends itself to any type of training. Well
written and informative. For you greyhound lovers, all her dogs and
inside photos are of greyhounds.
Colflesh, Linda. Making Friends: Training your Dog Positively
Illustrated by Deb Mickey ISBN 0-87605-687-7 Howell Book House,
copyright 1990.
A readable book that applies to all aspects of everyday training and
building a good relationship with your dog. Her method maximizes
using your dog's intelligence and your good relationship with your
pet and minimizes the use of force. It takes things all the way from
housebreaking the new dog through the basic obedience exercises and
includes chapters on aggression and moving on to off-leas work with
your dog.
Fisher, John. Dogwise.
The author is a well known UK behaviourist and ex-service dog
trainer. Dogwise follows the selection of a eight month rescue GSD
and his Police Dog handler through a 12 week course using only
positive reinforcement and the final exaimination qualifying the dog
to work with the London Met to the HMSO. The focus is on the
training methods more than on police work.
Handler, Barbara. Positively Obedient
This follows How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With very nicely.
This is a book a novice owner can read, follow and succeed in
getting results.
Handler, Barbara. Best Foot Forward.
A guide to showing and handling in the obedience rings. It covers
how to enter shows, what to do on the day, and how not to make
handling errors.
Handler, Barbara. Successful Obedience Handling: The NEW Best Foot
Forward. Alpine publications.
Hearne, Vicki. Adam's Task. Knopf. 1986.
Described as the best single reference on Koehler.
Koehler, William. The Koehler Method of Dog Training. Howell Books.
Koehler's methods are considered unusually harsh and
counterproductive by some modern trainers. On the other hand, his
methods do have a history of success, especially with breeds
considered less trainable.
Olson, Bjorn. Training Your Dog Step by Step.
Rogerson, John. Your Dog, its Development, Behaviour and Training.
Also, Training Your Dog.
Strickland, Winifred G. Expert Obedience Training for Dogs. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company), New
York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardback).
Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs.
Tucker, Michael. Dog Training Step by Step.
Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
follow. His others are Dog Training Made Easy, Solving Your Dog
Problems.
Volard. Training Your Dog Step by Step.
Weston, David. Dog Training: The Gentle Method.
_________________________________________________________________
Puppies
Benjamin, Carol Lea. Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train Your
Dog. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4. $15.95
hardcover.
"No matter how the pup transgresses, no matter how angry the bitch
becomes, she never denies him his nourishment. He never goes to bed
without his supper. Nor does she offer tidbits of food, treats
beneath the table, extra portions of dessert to reward good
behavior. Eating is eating and education is education."
She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.
Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between
an owner and his dog, and this book profides some ideas on
establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.
Brahms, Ann and Paul. Puppy Ed.. Ballantine Books. 1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress that
by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more
formal training goes much easier.
Dunbar, Ian, DVM. How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks (Manual for the
Sirius PUppy Training Program). James and Kenneth Pubs., Oakland.
1991.
Kovary, Robin. 12 Step Problem Prevention Program for Puppies.
Self-published, New York. 1990.
Monks of New Skete, The. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown
and Company (1991). ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
the appropriate stages and why. First they follow a newborn litter
through its various stages of development and at each stage they
discuss what is happening. They discuss testing puppies'
temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
circumstances. They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
reputable breeders. They then launch into a series of useful
chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
care. A good bibliography is provided at the back.
Randolph, Elizabeth. How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.
Rutherford, Clarice, and David H. Neil, MRCVS. How to Raise a Puppy
You Can Live With. Alpine Publications, Loveland, CO, 1981. ISBN
0-931866-09-X. 126 pages.
The authors demonstrate their deep understanding of young dogs, and
their clear guidance is sure to help owners build a strong bond with
their new companion. For a new owner this book demonstrates basic
obedience training, covers the first year developmental stages, and
presents simple practical advice for dealing with behavior problems
Schwartz, Charlotte. The Howell Book of Puppy Raising. 1st ed.
Howell Book House. c1978. ISBN 0-87605-770-9.
Full of all kinds of useful information. Tips on housetraining, use
of crates, how to feed, ways to train them, etc.
_________________________________________________________________
Research Articles on Canine Health
Dr. Jasper Rine, UC Berkeley Prof. of Genetics & Director of the
*Human* Genome Center at Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory is currently
working on producing a "detailed map of the dog genome -- the entire
complement of canine genes." (CHRONICLE OF HIGHER EDUCATION Vol XXXIX,
Nr 23; February 10, 1993 p.6)
"The results should allow Mr. Rine and his colleagues to pinpoint
the genes responsible for many of the behavioral and morphological
traits in dogs--from the strong need of Newfoundlands to swim and
rescue drowning people to their webbed feet, dark coat, and large
body size.
"And they should give veterinarians and dog breeders a better idea
of how to minimize the transmission of detrimental genetic disorders
that afflict canines, such as retinal atrophy, hip dysplasia, and
cancer."
He expects to complete the mapping of the canine genome within 3
years.
Nutrient Requirements of Dogs, Revised 1985 [there may be a newer
revisi on] Published by the National Academcy Press, 2101 Constitution
Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20418
This is written by the Subcommittee on Dog Nutrition, Committee on
Animal Nutrition, Board on Agriculture, National Research Council.
It reads pretty well for something put out by a committee. Lots of
references. Lots of tables of nutrient contents of various
foodstuffs. Don't expect any discussions of what dog food is best!
For the most part, consumers are left to figure this out for
themselves.
Allen, Moira Anderson. "Cancer: An Overview -- Canine Cancers and
Treatment Methods." Pure-Bred Dogs, American Kennel Gazette.
107(6):84. June 1, 1990.
Angel, C., O. D. Murphree, and D. C. De Lucia. 1974. The effects of
chlordiazepoxide, amphetamine and cocaine on bar-press behavior in
normal and genetically nervous dogs. Res. Nerv. Syst. 35:220-23.
Bardens, JW. Palpation for the detection of dysplasia and wedge
technique for pelvic radiography; Proc AAHA; pp 468-471, 1972.
Cardinet, GH, III, Guffy, MM, et al. Canine hip dysplasia in German
Shepherd Dog - Greyhound crossbreeds; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 164:
591-598, 1983.
Corley, EA, Hogan, PM. Trends in hip dysplasia control: Analysis of
Radiographs submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, 1974
to 1984; J Am Vet Med Assoc 187: 805-809, 1985.
Corley, EA, GG Keller. Hip Dysplasia A Guide for Dog Breeders and
Owners, 2nd Ed., Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Columbia, MO,
1989.
Dixon, RT. The effect of limb positioning on the radiographic
diagnosis of canine hip dysplasia; Vet Rec 91: 644-646, 1972.
Fox, SM, Burns, J, Burt, J. Symposium on Hip Dysplasia; Vet Med: pp
683-716, July, 1987.
Gaebelein, C. J., R. A. Galosy, L. Botticelli, J. L. Howard, and P. A.
Obrist. 1977. Blood pressure and cardiac changes during signalled and
unsignalled avoidance in dogs. Physiol. Behav. 19:69-74.
Hart BL. "Effects of neutering and spaying on the behavior of dogs and
cats: Questions and answers about practical concerns," in JAVMA
1991;198:1204-1205.
Houpt KA, Coren B, Hintz et al. "Effects of sex and reproductive
status on sucrose preference, food intake, and body weight of dogs,"
in JAVMA 1979; 174:1083-1085.
Henry, JD, Jr, Park, RD. Wedge technique for demonstration of
coxofemoral joint laxity in the canine: Proc. Canine Hip Dysplasia
Symposium and Workshop; OFA, Columbia, MO; pp 117-126, 1972.
Heshammer, A, Olsson, S-E, et al. Study of heritablility in 401
litters of German Shepherd Dogs; J. AM Vet Med Assoc 174: 1012-1016,
1979. [Hip dysplasia.]
Hutt, FB. Genetic selection to reduce the incidence of hip dysplasia
in dogs; J Am Vet Med Assoc; 151: 1041-1048, 1967.
Johnson SD. "Questions and answers on the effects of surgically
neutering dogs and cats," in JAVMA 1991;198:1206-1213.
Kasstrom, H. Nutrition, weight gain, and development of hip dysplasia:
An experimental investigation in growing dogs with special reference
to the effect of feeding intensity; Acta Radiol Suppl 344: 135-179,
1975.
LeRoux PH. Thyroid status, oestradiol level, work performance and body
mass of ovariectomised bitches and bitches bearing ovarian
autotransplants in the stomach wall. J S Afr Vet Assoc
1977;48:115-117.
Mackenzie, SA. Canine hip dysplasia: Why heritability estimates
differ; Canine Pract 12: 19-22, 1985.
Marrion, Ruth, DMV. "New Views on Neutering," in Purebred
Dogs/American Kennel Gazette, April 1992 (pp50-54).
Nicholas, FW. "Hip Dysplasia: Perspectives of the Eighties" in
Seminars in Veterinary Medicine and Surgery (Small Animals). Grune
& Stratton, Inc., Orlando, FL, Vol II, No. 2, May 1987.
Owen, Larry. "Identifying and treating Cancer in Geriatric Dogs."
Veterinary Medicine. 86(1):55 (January 1 1991).
Rendano, VT, Ryan G. Canine hip dysplasia evaluation; J Vet Radiol,
26:170-186, 1985.
Salmeri KR, Bloomberg MS, Scruggs SL, Shille V. Gonadectomy in
immature dogs: Effects on skeletal, physical, and behavioral
development. JAVMA 1991;198:1193-1203.
Salmeri KR, Olson PN, Bloomberg MS. Elective gonadectomy in dogs: A
review. JAVMA 1991;198:1183-1191.
Sonnenschein, Elizabeth G., Larwence T. Glickman, and Michael H.
Goldschmidt. Body Conformation, Diet, and Risk of Breast Cancer in Pet
DOgs: A Case-Control Study. American Journal of Epidemiology.
133(7):694 (April 1, 1991).
Thrusfield MV. Association between urinary incontinence and spaying
bitches. Vet Rec. 1985;116:695.
_________________________________________________________________
Search and Rescue
American Rescue Dog Association. Search and Rescue Dogs. Howell Book
House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-733-4.
ARDA outlines their philosophy and methods for SAR. This book is
excellent for an understanding of the depths of committment and work
to be a SAR volunteer. It is a compilation of notes made over a
thirty year period; consequently some of the information is out of
date. There are two main deficiencies in this book. The first is a
bias toward the German Shepherd Dog, such that they actually refuse
to use any other breed; the second is a seemingly cavalier disregard
for the consequences of deliberately searching for cadavers with SAR
dogs, when such dogs should always search for live scent
(particularly for disaster work).
Bryson, Sandy. Search Dog Training. Third printing. Boxwood Press,
183 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, CA 93950. 1991 (c 1984). ISBN:
0-910286-94-9.
A well organized, comprehensive discussion of search dog training.
Includes practical tips, discussion of search and rescue and the law
and many other topics.
Tolhurst, William D. with Lena F. Reed. Manhunters! Hounds of the Big
T. Hound Dog Press, 10705 Woodland Avenue, Puyallup, WA 98373. 1984.
ISBN: 0-9617723-0-1 (hardback).
Tolhurst is a Search and Rescue volunteer in upstate New York. This
book recounts his experiences using bloodhounds in trailing. Many
fascinating stories. Tolhurst includes a section on training a dog
to locate dead bodies.
_________________________________________________________________
Service Dogs
*. Therapy Dog.
Therapy dog training. A good psychology book with gentle training
methods.
Harrington, Paula. Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.
Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth.
_________________________________________________________________
Sled Dogs
Collins, Miki and Julie. Dog Driver, A Guide for the Serious Musher.
Alpine Publishing, 1991. 385 pgs hardcover. ISBN: 0-931866-48-0.
A complete reference covering all aspects of working and living with
sled dogs. From housing to health, nutrition, equipment, breeding,
training, and much more. Sprint racing, long distance racing, weight
pulling, camping, and so forth are also covered. Excellent book for
learning about sledding and sled dogs. Best if used in association
with one of the other novice books mentioned for beginning mushers.
Flanders, Noel. The Joy of Running Sled Dogs. Alpine Publishing
1989. 107 pgs softcover. ISBN: 0-931866-39-1.
This is a brief, beginners level, introduction to living and working
with sled dogs. A good compact reference.
Fishback, Lee and Mel. Novice Sled Dog Training. 13th printing,
Raymond Thompson Company, 1989. 37 pgs softcover.
This is a very brief guide for the begining dog driver. Covers
equipment, basic obedience, lead dog training, handling problem
dogs, and sled dog racing.
Kaynor, Carol and Mari Hoe-Raitto. Skijoring: An Introduction to the
Sport. Levorsen, Bella, ed. MUSH! A beginer's Manual of Sled Dog
Training, edited for the Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers Inc. Arner
Publications, 1976. 250pgs hardcover. ISBN: 0-91424-06-4.
A beginners guide to sled dogs and mushing. This is a very good
begining book to learn about equipment and training, as well as sled
dog health issues. Excellent novice mushing book.
Welch, Jim. The Speed Mushing Manual. Sirius Publishing, 1989. ISBN:
0-96236-43-0-4.
This is a book about serious sprint sled dog racing, the how to's.
Not a novice book.
_________________________________________________________________
Tracking or Trailing: Scenting
The Tracking Club of Massachusetts. Tracking! A Practical Guide for
TD and TDX. 438 Lowell Street, Wakefield, MA 01880. $8 plus shipping
and handling.
An inexpensive booklet on tracking that is put out by The Tracking
Club of Massachusetts. It is a very concise, yet clear introduction
to tracking for all breeds. It was written by the members of the
club some of which have almost 30 years tracking experience.
Button, Lue. Practical Scent Dog Training. Alpine Publications, Inc.
214 19th St. SE, Loveland, CO 80537. 1990. ISBN: 0-931866-47-2.
A step-by-step practical training guide for air scent, evidence
search, disaster search and the AKC tracking test. Starts with young
puppies. Well illustrated and methods extensively tested at Los
Alamos' Mountain Canine Corps.
Davis, L. Wilson. Go Find! Training Your Dog to Track. Ninth
printing, 1984. Howell Book House, Inc., New York. c1974. ISBN:
0-87605-550-1 (hardback).
Blurb: "Major L. Wilson Davis is America's recognized authority on
Tracking -- named in September 1973 to the Obedience Advisory
Committee of the AKC as its official consultant on Tracking and
scent training for dogs. This official status follows upon decades
of recognized achievemnent in these phases of Obedience training.
Following distinguished service with the K-9 Corps during WWII, he
has been active in the Governmnent's program of using trained
tracking dogs for the recovery of detonated missile parts in missile
experimentation. Major Davis was an AKC licenced judge for all
classes of Obedience. He is presently training director of the
famous Oriole Dog Training Club of Baltimore. He organized and
headed the Baltimor City K-9 Corps, one of the finest in the
country, and is often asked to lecture and advise police departments
on the use of tracking dogs in law enforcement. Major Davis is a
recipient of the Quaker Oats Distinguished Service Award for his
dedicated contributions to dog training."
Johnson, Glen. Training the Tracking Dog.
Johnson, Glen. Tracking Dog: Theory and Methods. Arner Publications
Inc., Clark Mills NY. c1975. ISBN: 0-914124-04-8.
From blurb: "The author became fascinated with the tracking tests
held at widely spaced intervals during the years where he could not
get over the trouble trainers were having training their own dogs
for this highly regarded title. He embarked upon a course of
research, experimentation and documentation that enabled him to
formulate his own training program that has resulted in 100% OF ALL
DOGS COMPLETING THE PROGRAM EARNING A TRACKING TITLE. Old wives
tales went out the window and theories became irrelevant as the
program was based solely on "observable behavior" of those dogs that
were already trained to track. The results of these experiments and
the program itself are detailed in "Tracking Dog - theory and
methods".
From this program, the youngest dog ever to acquire its TDX title in
Canada earned his title at 13 months of age. Before this time there
was never more than 1 dog with a TDX title alive anywhere else and
one student has two TDX dogs and a third with a Canadian and
American TD.
Pearsall, Milo D. and Hugo Verbruggen, MD. Scent: Training to Track,
Search, and Rescue. Alpine Publications, Inc., Colorado. 1982. ISBN:
0-931-866-11-1.
Blurb: "The authors first look at the scientific qualities of scent
-- what and how dogs smell and how environmental factors affect the
track. Then they use this background as a basis for training. Topics
include the science of scent, kindergarten puppy tracking, tracking
equipment, tracking tests, training to search, search and track,
search and find, search and rescue, trail companion, scent and the
law enforcement agency, first aid on the trail and much more."
Syrotuck, Bill. Scent and the Scenting Dog. Arner Publications,
c1972.
Early work on understanding scent.
_________________________________________________________________
Training Hunting Dogs
Free, James Lamb. Training Retrievers.
A classic. It outlines the long-standing training methods for field
dogs. A good book even if some of it is outdated. An excellent
description of training a dog to handle.
Rafe, Stephen. Training Your Dog for Birdwork.
Spencer, James B. Hunting Retrievers: Hindsights, Foresights and
Insights.
This is general interest, and well-written, but doesn't contain a
lot of training specifics.
Spencer, James B. Training Retrievers for the Marshes and Meadows.
Denlinger Publications in Fairfax, VA.
It starts with puppy selection and goes on up to advanced marks and
blinds. It is helpful in providing tips on resolving training
blocks.
Spencer, James B. Retriever Training Tests. Prentice Hall Press.
Helps you to set up training situations and teaches you how the dog
should react to things like hills, cover, land-water-land retrieves,
how the wind affects them, etc.
Tarrant, Bill. Training the Hunting Retriever. Howell Book House,
Mamillan Publishing Co., 866 Third Ave., New York NY 10022. c1991.
_________________________________________________________________
Working Dogs (other)
Chapman, Samuel G. Police Dogs in America. Bureau of Government
Research, 1979.
Duet, Karen Freeman and George Duet, The Home and Family Protection
Dog: Selection and Training. Howell Book House, 1993 ISBN
0-87605-619-2
Anyone who is thinking of getting a dog who's more than a' mobile
alarm' (watchdog) should consult this book.
Tolhurst, Bill. The Police Textbook for Dog Handlers. Sharp
Printing, 3477 Lockport Road, Sanborn, NY 14132. 1991. (Paperback, 89
pages.)
This book is only available from the author. $14 plus $2 shipping
and handling. Write to Bill Tolhurst, 383 Willow Street, Lockport,
NY 14094. The most comprehensive training book available. Contains
information not available from any other source. Contains updated
information covered by the original National Police Bloodhound
Training Manual (1977). Plus: how to train a land-cadaver dog, a
water-cadaver dog, an article-search dog, an accelerant (arson) dog.
Information on the Scent Transfer Machine, about radio-controlled
dogs, on crime scene dog development, on the use of a scent sleeve.
Discusses seminars, Bloodhound misconceptions, testifying in court,
commands, puppy profiles (how to select a puppy) and more.
_________________________________________________________________
Publications FAQ
Copyright 1995 by Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-...@netcom.com
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/training.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
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send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
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==========
TRAINING YOUR DOG
Table of Contents
* Prologue
* Questions about Training
+ I trained my dog to do X and now he won't!
+ How long will it take?
* Comments on Obedience Training
* Attention
+ Umbilical cords
+ Watching
+ Food in your mouth, spitting it at your dog
+ Talking softly
* Corrections
+ Young puppies
+ Older dogs
+ Proofing
* Using Food
* Training and Corrective Collars
* Learning to Sit
* Down, Stay, Off
* Heeling
* Learning Recall
+ Starting young
+ On leash
* Beyond Basic Obedience
+ Classes
+ Books
+ Magazines
+ Mailing list
* Gaming Dogs
+ Flying Disk, aka Frisbee, Dogs
+ Scent Hurdling
_________________________________________________________________
Prologue
First, you should understand that there are two components to
"training". There is the kind of training that solves behavioral
problems. There is also the kind of training that creates a
command-response pattern. It is perfectly possible to have a dog that
heels, sits, and stays perfectly and digs out all your marigolds.
Conversely, you may have a dog that does not destroy things in your
house but does not sit or heel. "Obedience training" does not
necessarily cover both of these aspects of training. In fact, they
usually just teach a command-response pattern and that's it. You need
to be aware of whether your dog needs behavior modification (where you
will have to find out the underlying reason why your dog digs and not
just put chicken wire over everything) or obedience training to
understand commands. Certainly, the two may be related: a dog that
digs because it is bored may become less bored with obedience training
and stop digging. It is important, however, to understand that the dog
stopped digging because it was no longer bored than because it now
knows how to heel. You will need to modify your approach, or select a
trainer to help you, with behavior vs. training in mind.
That said, good books on how to train your dog include:
Baer, Ted. Communicating with Your Dog. Barron's, New York. 1989.
ISBN 0-8120-4203-4 (oversized paperback).
Heavily illustrated with color photos. A sensible approach to laying
a good foundation for extensive obedience training (even if you
don't take the dog any further than what's outlined in here). Simple
instructions for teaching a 20-word language, with emphasis on
understanding and building on previous work.
Bauman, Diane L. Beyond Basic Dog Training. New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.
Benjamin, Carol Lea. Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train Your
Dog. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4. $15.95
hardcover.
She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy. Most
training methods rely on the foundational relationship between an
owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on establishing
that relationship while the puppy is still young.
Brahms, Ann and Paul. Puppy Ed.. Ballantine Books. 1981.
SBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress that
by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more
formal training goes much easier.
Burnham, Patricia Gail. Playtraining Your Dog. St. Martin's Press,
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. c1980. ISBN 0-312-61691-0 (trade
paperback).
An excellent book that describes how to use play to motivate your
dog through obedience training. She focuses on how to teach each
exercise in the AKC Novice, Open, and Utility classes. Her
philosophy, though, lends itself to any type of training. Well
written and informative. For you greyhound lovers, all her dogs and
inside photos are of greyhounds.
Strickland, Winifred G. Expert Obedience Training for Dogs. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company), New
York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs.
Tucker, Michael. Dog Training Step by Step.
Tucker is an ex GDB instructor and his books are easy to read and
follow. His others are Dog Training Made Easy, Solving Your Dog
Problems.
_________________________________________________________________
Questions about Training
"I TRAINED MY DOG TO DO ALL THESE THINGS AND NOW HE WON'T DO THEM!"
This is typical. Think of adolescent rebellion in teenagers. First
your dog learned and obeyed your commands because you were
unquestionably the leader. Then, while your dog understood what the
command was, it was older and decided to test you. This is where
corrections become crucial. If you pass this struggle (and it varies
with the individual dog), you will generally get past this hump,
although each individual command may go through a mini-sequence like
this.
"HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE ME TO FINISH TRAINING MY DOG?"
You should not think of training as consisting of some fixed set of
exercises after which the dog will always be "trained." Training is
ongoing. Dogs being what they are, they will take advantages of lapses
in training behavior. If you train your dog to stay off the couch and
then subsequently forget or stop correcting it for getting on the
couch, the behavior will not go away. You must continually work with
your dog on what it knows to reinforce it and keep the good behavior.
Thinking of training as a lifelong process does more to ensure a
well-trained dog & a happy owner than anything else.
_________________________________________________________________
Comments on Obedience Training
There are a number of different training methods available. None of
these methods are perfect and none are guaranteed to work on your dog
(regardless of what it says on the cover). Each dog is different and
the interaction with its owner is unique. Some methods work better
than others for you and your dog. It will depend on your per sonal
preference (dogs are good at telling when you are hesitant or unhappy
with a particular technique) and your dog's temperament and ability.
People frequently disagree over which methods are "good" and even
which are "best." This kind of argument is fairly pointless, as the
effectiveness of each training method is subjective. Find one that
works for you and don't worry about criticisms. On the other hand,
suggestions to help overcome specific training problems may be what
you need and you shouldn't reject it out of hand because it's not in
the method you chose.
A good expert shouldn't reject any other methods out of hand; the
Monks in their books point out that readers should consult other books
as well. Being an expert doesn't mean being able to only use or do one
method. The more methods you look at and try, the better data base you
have to draw from. There are many methods for training dogs out there.
What is best for your dog? This really depends on the temperament and
intelligence of your dog, and your own ability. There is no one method
that works for all dogs since breed and temperment play a large part
in your dogs reaction to any particular method.
Good results in obedience training require large doses of consistency,
good timing, and patience. You must be consistent: use the same word
for a particular command every time (e.g., don't use "Come" sometimes
and "Come here" other times). You must develop a fine sense of timing
when introducing new commands and later correcting behavior on learned
commands. Patience is needed: losing your temper is counterproductive.
Get the whole family to agree on the commands, but have only one
person train the dog to minimize confusion for the dog.
Establish a daily training period, preferably just before dinner. It
can be as short as twenty minutes, or longer. Establishing a routine
helps.
Don't expect overnight success. It can take up to two years of
consistent work, depending on the dog, for a properly trained dog.
(This is where the patience comes in!)
You must praise often and unambiguously. A smile won't do it. Give
abundant verbal praise, scratch your dog on the head, etc.
Try making the command word part of a praise phrase. In this case,
whenever your dog is in the desired heel position, you could say
something like "Good heel!" in a praising tone of voice. Note that you
only give the command once but that the command word is repeated in
the praise phrase for reinforcement. That seems to satisfy the
objective of the proponents of repeating the command (i.e. letting the
dog hear the command often) without actually repeating it as a
command. Further, because it is being said when the dog is doing it
right rather than during a correction the dog doesn't create any
negative association with the command as the latter is likely to
cause.
If you have a puppy -- don't wait! Enroll in a kindergarten puppy
class once its up on its shots. Don't wait until the pup is 6 months
old to start anything.
Training before "six months of age" is fine if you see the puppy
having fun with these lessons. Just remember to keep the lessons
short, don't loose patience when your puppy suddenly forgets
everything it ever knew, and give it plenty of time just to be a
puppy. In the long term, the time you spend with your puppy exploring,
playing together and meeting new people is probably more important
important than your short "training" sessions, but both activities are
very helpful.
Remember:
* Make it fun for the pup.
* Expect setbacks. Just because the pup understood what you meant
yesterday, doesn't mean he'll remember it today. This means lots
of repetition. Teach the basic commands: sit, stay, and come for
now.
You may find it well worth your while, especially if you are new to
training dogs, to attend obedience classes. Most places have local
training schools. Be sure to check up on these places. Call the Better
Business Bureau and your local SPCA for any specific complaints
registered with them. Especially check carefully places where you ship
your dog out to be trained: many of these places are suspect, because
YOU must also be trained to handle your dog. Beware of advertising
that claim LIFETIME warranties on the training, GUARANTEED solutions,
etc. It is best for you and your dog to go through obedience training
together, so that you both learn from each other.
No matter what kind of class you're looking for: from basic puppy
kindergarten for your little puppy to basic obedience for an older dog
to more advanced training for a dog that's already done some work,
you'll want to pick the class out carefully.
First and foremost, pick out a class where you are comfortable with
the methods and the trainer. If you don't start off with this footing,
learning anything positive from the class simply won't happen.
Next look at the size of the class and how much time the trainer
spends with each person. Ideally, the smaller the class the better,
although for puppy classes you want at least four or five dogs since
socialization is an important part of the class. Does the trainer
allocate time outside of class for questions (either an extra several
minutes before or after class or giving you her phone number for
class)? What sort of guarantees do they offer? If they say your pooch
will be trained in six weeks permanently, no questions asked, run do
not walk away from this outfit. If, however, they offer followup help
after the class is over or offer a few extra classes for specific
problems after or during the class, this is a good outfit.
Check out what their policy is with aggressive dogs in class. It does
happen that one of the dogs attending the class frightens and
intimidates the other dogs. There should be a clause for dismissing
such a dog (or better yet, going into private training with it), or
having it muzzled and otherwise restrained to minimize disruption to
the class.
_________________________________________________________________
Attention
An important aspect of obedience training is getting your dog's
attention. Your dog will not perform as readily if it isn't paying
attention to you. There are a number of things you can do to get its
attention, and you should be sure to praise it for paying attention.
The Monks of New Skete stress this a lot in their book (with the
addition that in turn, you've got to pay attention to what your dog is
communicating to you during training). If there's one piece of
definitive advice about dog training this must be it.
UMBILICAL CORDS
Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie it to your belt. Now,
go about the house on your ordinary business. Do not pay attention to
the dog. It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine
when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going.
This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a
good foundation for learning to heel later. Start with short periods
of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more
familiar with this exercise.
WATCHING
If you look up and catch your dog watching you (this is different from
the staring contests mentioned above because the dog is not "staring"
at you when it is watching you move around), praise it.
FOOD IN YOUR MOUTH, SPITTING IT AT YOUR DOG
An excellent exercise for teaching attention. It gets the dog to
concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket. Do this
as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that it must watch
your face. Also, DON'T let them pick up the food from the floor or
ground. If you do, they will learn that they don't have to catch the
treat. They can just wait and pick it up. And don't let them come back
later to clean up.
Do not, however, use food in general when obedience training. See
Using Food below.
TALKING SOFTLY
Talk softly to your dog. It will have to pay more attention to you.
This is especially effective when younger, and is a good habit to get
into.
_________________________________________________________________
Corrections
You should never correct when you yourself are upset, angry or
downright mad, especially at your dog. Good correction depends on
timing, a keen awareness of what the dog is thinking, and quick
switching between correction and praise, all of which are difficult
when you are upset. Stop the exercise until you regain your
equilibrium. You will have much difficulty training your dog if you
continually get mad while doing it. In fact, if you always or often
get mad when training your dog, someone else should train it. You will
get absolutely nowhere yelling at your dog.
YOUNG PUPPIES
The dictum "don't train before 6 months of age" doesn't make any sense
unless you're talking about the correction involved in formal
obedience training. If you think about it, you train your dog all the
time whether you realize it or not. Dogs are great at picking up your
body language and tone of voice. Even if you're not trying to train
them, they're "training" themselves using the clues we give them (and
many "problems" are classic cases of the dogs misunderstanding their
owner's signals).
If possible with a young puppy it is best to use the "correction" of
distraction. When you deny the puppy something, try to replace it with
a positive activity rather than just being negative and oppressive all
the time. Otherwise, limit your corrections to a verbal "no."
OLDER DOGS
There comes a time in training any dog that it must do what you ask
just because you asked the dog to do it. You have been helping your
dog with this particular task for a while and you see the look in its
eye that says, "Yes, I know what you want, but I don't want to do that
right now." This is very different than the look that says, "Huh???"
You do have to know the dog you are training and be able to tell the
difference between these looks. That is just part of being a trainer,
and no one can really teach you this skill, but you do have to learn
it.
Always praise the dog immediately when it listens to your corrections.
Again, this gives the "jekyll and hyde" feel to dealing with your dog.
But it is very important to immediately praise your dog for listening
to you. This helps build confidence and keeps the dogs from having
that "hang-dog" look when performing.
PROOFING
Proofing is a method where you make sure your dog understands a
command, after you have taught the dog the command. It isn't fair to
proof a dog on a command when it is still learning what it means.
For example, you teach your dog to stay. After making it stay in a
relatively distraction-free environment, you step up the pressure. You
throw balls up in the air and catch them, squeak toys, have someone
stand near your dog and talk softly to it. If your dog gets up, gently
put it back. If after doing this for a while, the dog still gets up,
then you start putting him back less gently, i.e. taking your dog
roughly by the collar and putting it back, escalating to picking your
dog up by the collar so that its front legs come off the ground and
VERY slowly putting it back in its place, escalating to picking the
dog up by its skin so that its front legs come off the ground and VERY
slowly putting it back. Some dogs get the idea more quickly than
others; stop your correction when it stays down.
When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by throwing
balls all around him, bouncing them on the ground, etc. Also, someone
else should try to offer him food, make strange noises such as
clapping , barking like a dog, meowing like a cat, using toys or
things that make strange noises.
When your dog passes this step, increase the pressure by putting it on
a stay and having someone shout in a loud voice "ROVER, COME!" (do not
use your dog's name), "OK", "DOWN" (if doing a sit stay). If at home,
put him on a stay and go and ring the doorbell. It should take several
months (6-8) to work through all of these distractions and care must
be taken to not blow the dog's mind by putting him in a situation that
he is not ready for or by never letting the dog "win" (i.e.,
successfully perform an exercise).
Always let the dog "win" on the last exercise in the session. That is,
end the sessions on positive notes, with much praise. This keeps your
dog interested in the work.
_________________________________________________________________
Using Food
According to the last chapter of Diane Bauman's book Beyond Basic Dog
Training there is more to dog training and to trainer-dog
relationships than just the dog performing for food and toys. The dog
should have a relationship with you and work to please you and work
for your praise. That should be the important thing in your training,
the relationship.
Remember, the goal in obedience is consistency. If you have a
hard-charging dog when you train with treats and toys, but have a
slow, depressed dog when you take the treats away, getting any kind of
consistent performance out of the dog will be VERY difficult. Sure,
with a slow dog you may loose a few points for lack of "Utmost
willingness" but if the dog does every sit correctly, every front
correctly and works confidently, you will still do well in the show
ring.
Further, there are many cases of dogs trained using these techniques
that are "ring-wise." They know they will not be corrected nor will
they be rewarded "properly" for their performance, so why should they
work?
_________________________________________________________________
Training and Corrective Collars
There are several kinds of collars. There are the plain flat buckled
ones for everyday use available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and
fastners (from buckles to quick-release).
Note that puppies do not need corrective collars.
For training purposes, there are choke collars (also called training
collars), pinch collars and prong collars. Used properly, there is
nothing wrong with any of these collars, although they often look
rather alarming. The point is that these collars are for control, not
for pain infliction. Yanking savagely on these collars is
counterproductive; firm corrections get the point across without
injury. Try this experiment: wrap each of the collars around your arm
in turn and have someone experienced with corrections give a
correction to your arm.
To prevent your dog from injury from corrective collars, do not leave
them on when you are not around. Its usual collar should be a plain
flat bucked collar; save the choke and prong collars for actual
training and when you are around.
_________________________________________________________________
Learning to Sit
Command, "Sit!". Pull straight up on your leash (do not jerk),
simultaneously push (do not hit) down on the dog's rump. After the dog
knows the exercise, a tap on the rump is appropriate if the dog
refuses to sit.
Another way is to have the dog focus on your hand. Say "sit," move
your hand over its head so that it must sit to keep it focused. Praise
it when it is sitting.
_________________________________________________________________
Down, Stay, Off
One caveat is to be sure that you are consistent with "down" and
"off." Do not use them interchangeably, you will only confuse your
dog. "Down" should be the classic "lie down on the floor" command,
"off" needs to be "get all your paws on the ground (and off me or off
the chair) NOW!"
Traditionally, you start by putting the dog in a sit position. Then,
using your hand, or a toy, guide its nose down until it's in a down
position. Once it understands "down" try to eliminate the sit-down
sequence, or else your dog will start to "down" when you say "sit"!
_________________________________________________________________
Heeling
To make the process of learning to heel easier, start when your dog is
a puppy. Don't expect it to heel, but discourage from the beginning
any forging (lunging) or lagging on the leash. Keep the puppy focused
on you when on leash. This may mean constantly talking to your pup to
keep its attention. Pretty soon, you'll have a pup that stays pretty
close to you on leash and doesn't pull in any direction. The umbilical
cord approach suggested for attention can be a good way to start and
maintain this. Don't worry about "perfect heeling" for several months
yet; it is too much to ask of a puppy right away.
When you and your dog are ready to learn heeling, there are several
approaches to take.
* Try binding, where you have only a few inches of slack on your
leash. Hold the lead like a baseball bat handle, with your hands
almost on his collar. "Plaster" you arms against your body. When
you start off (with your left leg) tell him heel and hold him
right there at your side. If he pulls ahead, add pressure in the
lead backwards and say "get back". Once he stops pulling tell him
"good boy". Stop and do about four straight lines first (no turns
yet). Just counter any way he pulls with either "get back",
"get-up" "get-in" or "get out". When he is in the right spot, tell
him he's good. Just do a few short heels first and increase
length. As he learns where heel is, he should stop pulling then
you can let more leash out and do the same thing. If he starts
pulling again, go right back down to just a few inches.
* Put your dog on a 6 foot leash with either a choke collar (not
prong) or flat collar. Hold the loop of the leash in your right
hand and keep your hand against your waist. Loop the slack over
the thumb of that hand. Walk around the back yard and when your
dog walks past you and is not paying attention, turn 180 degrees,
drop the slack from the leash and RUN! Your Dog will get turned
around and will have to follow. As soon as the leash is slack STOP
moving. Say "good <name>," pick up the slack and walk around the
yard again. Whenever your dog goes ahead of you and it can't see
you, drop slack, turn and RUN again. Don't jerk the leash like a
correction. You want a constant pull and if you keep your hand
against your waist a jerk on the leash won't happen.
* Practice your foot work. Make sure you are clear with your
about-turns, left-turns and right turns. Bauman illustrates the
way to turn with photographs in her book. Being clear with your
turns helps clue your dog into when you are going to turn.
* Along with foot work is timing - count out loud "1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2"
and keep each pace the same length. When going slow it's "1 and 2
and 1 and 2" same length paces but at 1/2 time. Fast is "121212"
again but twice as fast and with the same length paces.
* Simple direction changes help as well: do an "about-face" turn
whenever the heel starts disintegrating. That way, your dog has to
stay closer to you to watch where you're going.
_________________________________________________________________
Learning Recall
First of all, the golden rule of recall:
NEVER PUNISH YOUR DOG WHEN IT COMES TO YOU!
It will not want to come to you if it associates that with punishment.
*Always* praise a dog for coming to you. Remember its associative
powers are limited, and it will only understand that it was punished
for coming to you, regardless of what it just did before that.
STARTING YOUNG
Understand that teaching a 1 year old dog the recall is not the ideal
situation. Your dog should be taught the recall by 4 months or so, and
when the dog is younger, it is much easier. By the time the dog is a
year old, and starting to exert its dominance, the recall should be a
well-established habit and a few relatively minor corrections should
re-establish that habit in case there are minor lapses.
ON LEASH
Make a fun game of it, get your dog to understand what that command
is. With a puppy, call its name and "COME". Get down and open your
arms wide as your pup comes in to "funnel" it toward you. Make a big
fuss over it.
Sit your dog down, on a lead, and make it stay. Walk to the end of the
lead and say "<name>, COME" and give it just a little pop and run AWAY
from your dog. As your dog gets to you, make it sit in front of you.
PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE!! Work on this way until your dog starts coming
before you can give the little pop. Then get a long lead (15 feet or
so) and do the same thing. Then progress to letting it drag the 15
foot lead around. Call your dog as you are working in the yard, or
doing other things. Always praise.
Make your dog sit every time it comes to you. This avoids the later
common problem of the dog running past you when you call it.
Only call your dog once. If the dog disobeys, don't call again, just
correct the dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Beyond Basic Obedience
It is, of course, beyond the scope of this article to discuss any more
advanced obedience exercises in any kind of detail. However, there are
many resources if you are interested in further obedience training.
CLASSES
There are a number of classes, public and private, offered for more
extensive obedience training. Especially if you get to know an
experienced handler/trainer well, you can learn a lot from that
person.
BOOKS
There are a several books available that devote a good deal of
discussion to training dogs, above and beyond what most dog books do.
These are:
Bauman, Diane L. Beyond Basic Dog Training. New, updated edition.
Howell Book House (Maxwell Maxmillan International), New York. 1991.
ISBN: 0-87605-410-6.
Emphasis is on training a "thinking" dog rather than a
pattern-trained dog. Extensive manual on obedience training.
Communication and understanding are discussed. A well known and
often recommended book.
Strickland, Winifred G. Expert Obedience Training for Dogs. Third
revised edition. Howell Book House (Macmillan Publishing Company), New
York. 1987. ISBN: 0-02-615000-X (hardcover).
Strickland is a well known dog trainer. Covers all aspects of
training and competition including the formal training for AKC
obedience trials (novice, open, utility, tracking). Includes some
general care (health and feeding) tips. Author has also written
Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs.
MAGAZINES
Front and Finish
P.O. Box 333
Galesburg, IL 61402-0333
1-309-344-1333
Obedience related information.
MAILING LIST
There is an electronic mailing list devoted to dog obedience issues.
This is not for the novice, but for the person starting on advanced
obedience training, as well as those experienced with these
techniques. It is a good forum for discussing particular problems that
may come up in the course of training your dog. The list's volume is
moderate, with occasional peaks and valleys, depending on how "hot"
the current topic is. For more information, send email to the list
maintainer at obe...@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu.
_________________________________________________________________
Gaming Dogs
FLYING DISK, AKA FRISBEE, DOGS
From: Andrew L Mouser And...@world.std.com
Flying Disc Dogs do more then fetch a flying disc. They do leaps,
weaves, vaults, takes and any variety of tricks imaginable. Currently,
there is only one association that titles competing flying disc dogs;
The Flying Disc Dog Association (FDDA). FDDA events are usually held
in conjunction with other events such as pet fairs and shows, agility
events, and other events where the added spectator sport of these dogs
are beneficial.
The format for competition involves 3 levels. Level 1 is the Timed
Toss & Catch (TTC), Novice Freestyle, and Advanced Freestyle. At all
levels, competitors generally supply the discs, which are required to
be free of defects and obstructions. Multiple discs are allowed with
the exception of the TTC where only 1 disc is allowed on the playing
field.
Timed Toss and Catch:
In the TTC, each team is allowed 1 disc on the playing field.
With a time limit of 60 seconds, the handler/dog team attempts
to make as many tosses and catches as possible within the time
limit. Points are scored in relationship to the distance that
the dog catches the disc and whether the catch was on the
ground (OTG), where the dog is touching the ground with any
part of his body when the catch is made, or in the air (ITA),
where the dog is completely off the ground when the catch is
made. Catches made 10-20 yards are worth 1 point OTG and 2
points ITA. Catches made 20-30 yards are worth 3 points OTG and
4 points ITA. Catches made 30+ yards are worth 5 points OTG and
6 points ITA.
Novice Freestyle:
In the Novice Freestyle, each team has a maximum of 90 seconds
to perform a freestyle routine with a maximum of 10 discs that
consists of a minimum of the following compulsories; One ITA
catch of greater than 10 yards. A controlled retrieve where the
dog is placed on a down-stay or sit-stay until the disc comes
to a complete rest. An Out where the dog brings a retrieved
disc and drops it in front of the handler without any physical
assistance from the handler. A Through-The-Leg where the dog
must run under and through the legs of the arch made by the
legs of the handler to catch a thrown disc. One Back Over where
the dog leaps over the back of the handler to catch a thrown
disc. Additionals are tricks that are added to the routine to
generate additional points to be added to the overall score.
Additionals may be any trick the team may desire to perform.
Advanced Freestyle:
In Advanced Freestyle, each team has a maximum of 120 seconds
to perform a freestyle routine with a maximum of 10 discs that
consists of a minimum of the following Compulsories; An ITA
catch of greater than 20 yards. A Mouth Take where the dog
takes a disc from the mouth of the handler. A Leg Vault where
the dog catches a disc with the added assistance of "vaulting"
off the leg of the handler. A Front Vault where the dog catches
a disc with the added assistance of vaulting off the front of
the handler and going over the handlers head (the handler may
be in a kneeling position to compensate for smaller dogs) to
catch a thrown disc. A Back Vault where the dog catches a disc
with the assistance of vaulting off the back of the handler and
going over the handlers head with kneeling optional to catch a
thrown disc. A Back Over where the dog leaps over the back of
the handler to catch a thrown disc. A Back Flip where the disc
is thrown close and just over the head of the dog where the dog
leaps in the air, catches the disc, and lands in a position of
180 degrees or greater from the starting position. One
Butterfly catch where the disc is thrown in such a way that the
disc is spinning end-over-end.
Titles:
Flying Disc Canine (FC)
A dog may earn the title of Flying Disc Canine after earning a
minimum of 250 points in the Timed Toss and Catch competition.
Flying Disc Canine Excellent (FCX)
A dog may earn the title of Flying Disc Canine Excellent after
completing 3 qualifying rounds of Novice Freestyle competitions
at 3 separate tournaments.
Flying Disc Canine Champion (FCCh)
A dog may earn the title of Flying Disc Canine Champion after
completing 3 qualifying rounds of Advanced Freestyle
competitions at 3 separate tournaments.
For more information write:
Flying Disc Dog Association
1471 LaSalle Street
Burton, Mi 48509
SCENT HURDLING
As much fun for the owner as for the dog, scent hurdling is
essentially a variation on flyball (see faq on flyball). Teams of four
dogs race to jump hurdles, pick up one of four balls (scented by each
owner) and return.
_________________________________________________________________
Training Your Dog FAQ
Copyright by Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-...@netcom.com
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/medical-info.02.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
CANINE MEDICAL INFORMATION, PART II
Table of Contents
* Prologue
* Hip Dysplasia (HD, or C(anine)HD)
+ In general
+ Development
+ Breeding
+ Clinical symptoms
+ Environmental Influences
+ Diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia
+ Life for dogs with Hip Dysplasia
+ Treatment of Hip Dysplasia
+ Prevention of Hip Dysplasia
* Infectious Canine Hepatitis
* Kennel Cough (Infectious Tracheobronchitis)
* Kidney Failure
* Leptospirosis
* Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD)
* Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
* Panosteitis (puppy limp)
* Patellar Subluxation
* Poisons
+ Local Poison Control Centers
+ National Animal Poison Control Center
+ Foods
+ Poisonous houseplants
+ Poisonous outdoor plants
+ Poisonous household items
+ Poisonous animals
* Rabies
* Ringworm
* Thyroid Disorders
* Ununited Anconeal Process
* von Willebrand's Disease
_________________________________________________________________
Prologue
Much of the information found in this article is summarized from
Carlson & Giffin. I would like to thank them for their informative and
accessible information. Any mistakes made in the summaries are my
responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's. I believe that I am within
copyright laws by using summarizations (no direct quoting, except for
the toxic plants section), my own organization of the material, and
precise acknowledgement where relevant. -Cindy Tittle Moore
An excellent resource that details all aspects of health issues for
dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:
Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook (Revised and Expanded). Howell Book House,
Macmillan Publishing Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA
(1992, 2nd ed). ISBN: 0-87605-537-4 (hardcover).
This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A must have
home veterinarian handbook.
_________________________________________________________________
Hip Dysplasia (HD, or C(anine)HD)
An excellent source of information on hip dysplasia is:
Hip Dysplasia
A Guide for Dog Breeders and Owners
2nd Edition 1989
By E.A. Corley and G.G. Keller
A single copy is available for a donation and multiple copies are
$3.00 each at Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc, 2300 Nifong
Blvd, Columbia, MO 65201, 314-442-0418. It is informative, and highly
recommended.
The work is copyrighted and permission to reproduce the work was not
given since the costs of production are still being recouped, so only
highlights from the monograph are presented here. I do encourage you
to get your own copy.
Another good source of information on Hip Dysplasia may be found in
the chapter "Hip Dysplasia" in Genetics of the Dog by Malcolm B.
Willis (Howell Book House). Information from this chapter is also
presented below.
An online presentation of Hip Displasia can be found at
http://www2.ncsu.edu/unity/project/www/ncsu/cvm/teach/cases/hd.html.
IN GENERAL
Hip dysplasia ("bad development") appears in people and many species
of animals. In some breeds of dogs, it is the most common cause of
osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease. Extensive research on
hip dysplasia suggests that CHD is a more complex disease than was
first thought. There are no simple answers or solutions to the
problem. The complexity of CHD results in research findings that
appear to be contradictory. However, many aspects of the disease have
been repeatedly and independently documented and are generally
accepted by the scientific community. Three important ones are:
* Canine hip dysplasia is caused by the presence of many genes
(polygenic). While no environmental cause has been found, many
environmental factors contribute to its expression in a particular
dog (phenotype).
* The only current means for reducing the occurrence of CHD is by
selectively breeding for normal hips.
* Radiography is the accepted means for evaluating the hip status.
DEVELOPMENT
Regardless of what the initiating factor or factors may be, abnormal
looseness of the hip joint after 2 weeks of age seems to be the event
most commonly reported to result in hip dysplasia. However, there are
exceptions to this, and dogs with tight hips have developed hip
dysplasia.
The early changes are not easily detected. Severe cases may be
diagnosed as early as 7 weeks of age; others may not show up in
radiographs until over 2 years of age. This is why OFA only certifies
dogs over two years of age.
BREEDING
Most inherited traits in animals are polygenic. These traits do not
follow patterns based on dominant/recessive pairs because polygenic
traits are affected by many genes. Only some puppies will have the
same combination of genes for a trait as the parents. Some will have a
more desirable combination while others will have a less desirable
pattern. As the number of involved genes increase, the possible
outcomes also increase. In addition, remember that it is also possible
for different genes to have a different level of influence on the
trait, complicating the outcomes considerably. Predictions of a
specific outcome from a particular mating involving polygenic traits
is currently impossible.
In Corley and Keller's opinion, a dog with excellent hips but with
more than 25% of its brothers and sisters affected with hip dysplasia
is a poorer breeding prospect than a dog with fair hips and less than
25% of its brothers and sisters exhibiting dysplasia.
CLINICAL SYMPTOMS
(from Corley & Keller)
"...[T]he signs [of hip dysplasia] vary from decreased exercise
tolerance to severe crippling. They include: a reluctance or inability
to go up or down stairs, difficulty in rising from a sitting or prone
position, bunny-hopping gait when running, stiffness early in the
morning that improves as the dog warms up, change in disposition due
to pain, lameness after exercise, wobbly gait, a clicking sound when
walking, and many others. Many dogs will shift their center of gravity
forward in an effort to relieve weight and pressure on the hips. These
dogs generally present a front end that appears well-developed
relative to the rear end.
"In dysplastic dogs, the hip joint is a weakened structure that is
more subject to being injured by normal activity such as jumping off a
couch, or rough housing with a playmate. Frequently, this results in
an acute lameness that in the mind of the owner was caused by the
injury, whereas the underlying dysplasia actually made the joint more
susceptible to injury. Obviously, the normal hip can be injured, but
the radiographic examination can usually distinguish between a hip
problem due to dysplasia and one due to other causes.
"CHD can not be diagnosed by observing how the dog moves, acts, lies
down, etc. The clinical signs may be caused by other problems;
therefore, a complete orthopedic and radiographic examination is
required before arriving at the conclusion that the signs are caused
by CHD."
ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCES
Environmental factors such as type of food and exercise in puppyhood
have been shown to affect the displayed symptoms within the same
litter. However, subsequent generations from both groups showed the
same rates of dysplasia meaning that while the phenotype may be
affected, the genotype is what determines whether a dog has the
potential for being affected with HD.
In general, low protien diets and low activity levels through
puppyhood reduced the symptoms of HD markedly. However, the degree of
diet reduction and no activity may or may not be practical for the
average dog-owner to attempt. (See Willis.)
It's best to keep your puppy from any kind of jumping for the first
year or so in life. It's also best to keep from sustained exercise
until at least a year old. Sustained exercise includes: jogging with
owner, pulling weights, mushing, running with owner on bike, etc. Even
for dogs not at risk from HD, it's wise not to exercise too strongly
too early as such exercise may interfere with proper growth of joints,
leading to similar problems such as arthritis on the joint or OCD.
DIAGNOSIS OF HIP DYSPLASIA
Any diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia must be made via expert radiographic
diagnosis. This involves taking xrays of the joint and typically
sending the film to organizations that will evaluate, register, and
certify the dog. Veterinarians will often "diagnose" the film
themselves but if the question is critical its best to have them
properly evaluated (unless, of course, your vet is experienced with
radiographic evaluation -- not all are).
You cannot, repeat, cannot make a reliable diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia
on the basis of external symptoms such as lameness or gait.
OFA
The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals is the most well known registry
in the United States. It grades all joints, most commonly hips, as
severe, moderate, fair, good, and excellent. It will certify all
passing grades givent to dogs over 2 years of age.
PennHip
PennHip is a new evaluation technique that flexes the limbs
differently to produce the xray pictures. There are only a handful of
vets around the country that have been certified to take xrays using
the PennHip method. Write to ?? for more information.
Genetic Disease Control, UC Davis
There is a program here for radiographic evaluation of dogs. Wind
Morgan is the most well known of these programs, offered to Labrador
Retrievers. There are similar programs for Rottweilers and a few other
breeds. Wind Morgan will certify at one year of age or older and
requires xrays of hips, elbows, and hocks. They will hold clinics
around the country to help hold costs down.
Genetic Disease Control is actually a larger effort to collect data on
all kinds of genetic diseases, of which Hip Dysplasia is only one.
They have registries and information on a wide array of diseases. All
their registries are open, in an effort to make more information
available to breeders in making informed choices about their breeding
stock. For more information, write to
GDC
PO Box 222
Davis, CA 95617
916-756-6773
LIFE FOR DOGS WITH HIP DYSPLASIA
First of all, be sure that your dog has been accurately diagnosed with
HD. Many vets do not have the expertise in reading the x-rays, so you
need to be sure that an experienced radiologist reads them. If you're
not familiar with the competencies of the vets in your area, your best
bet is to have the x-rays sent in to OFA for evaluation. You CANNOT
definitively diagnose HD on the basis of external appearance or
palpitation of the joint or anything like that. Many things can cause
limping, some of which are correctible, so it pays to be certain you
have the correct diagnosis.
Diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia is not an automatic death sentence for your
dog! Because it is a polygenetic trait, the variability of expression
is actually quite wide. Some dogs may experience little or no
discomfort and you may never know they have HD unless you test for it.
Other dogs may experience more pain, but it may be easily controlled
with proper exercise and judicious use of aspirin under the direction
of a vet. Only a small percentage of cases are so crippled by HD that
they must be put down.
You should immediately neuter any dog that has HD. The only known
means of eliminating this disease lie in well-managed breeding
programs, so do your part by eliminating the possibility of your dog
contributing to the overall problem.
Discuss with your vet appropriate strategies for dealing with HD. In
most cases, the general advice is to keep the dog from doing any kind
of jumping or causing other sudden stress to the joints. However, as
solid muscle buildup around the joint helps to ease the pressure on
the joint, regular exercise is generally recommended, with swimming
topping the list as gaining the most benefit with the least stress to
the joints.
TREATMENT OF HIP DYSPLASIA
In many cases, simple restriction of exercise and perhaps aspirin as
directed by the vet is all that the dog needs to remain comfortable.
However, there are several options for the more severely affected
dogs:
Non-traditional treatments (not validated by controlled trials):
* acupuncture
* chiropractic
* vitamin therapy (generally Vitamins C & E & selenium)
* superoxide dismutase
Medical therapy (aimed at reducing pain/inflammation from arthritic
changes):
* aspirin
* bute
* adequan therapy
"Adequan is a polysulfated glycosaminoglycan which is used primarily
for treatment of degenerative joint disease in horses. In fact, it
is not actually approved in the U.S. for dogs. However, I have seen
remarkable results in many of my older patients with chronic DJD. In
theory, it stimulates increased production of joint fluid and the
joint moves more freely and with less pain. It does not always work,
but when it does, it is usually dramatic." -Ralph M. Askren, DVM
Surgical intervention
* Triple pelvic osteotomy
Surgical procedure of choice in younger dogs without arthritic
changes-- the pelvis is cut in three places and repositioned so
that there is a better fit between hip socket & femoral
head--can't be done once arthritis is present
* "Hip removal" surgery
Sometimes the head of the femur can be simply removed and the
muscles around the site compensate for the missing joints [more
typically done in smaller dogs]. The dog is pain free afterwards
and learns to walk again, but running and jumping are not done
normally again.
* Hip replacement surgery
Traditional treatment removes the dog's existing hips and cements
artificial hips into place.
* Uncemented hip prosthesis (subcategory of hip replacement surgery)
Dr. David J. DeYoung of NCSU, professor of orthopedic surgery in
the College of Veterinary Medicine, helped develop the prosthesis
based on a human version that is held in place without cement. The
prosthesis features a beaded surface into which bone and fibrous
tissue can grow and secure the components. More than 100 of the
new prostheses have been implanted in dogs over a five-year period
without loosening or infection, two of the main concerns with
cemented total hip replacements,
* BOP shelf arthroplasty
(don't remember anything about this one other than it is
experimental)
When the dog's pain cannot be controlled or alleviated
* Euthanasia
PREVENTION OF HIP DYSPLASIA
There is no known method of preventing hip dysplasia except for a
thoughtful and carefully executed breeding program with regular
radiographic analysis of all stock before breeding. It is possible to
reduce symptoms entirely to the point where the dog will radiograph
much less severely [1], however followup studies show that these dog's
offspring have the same risk for HD as they would have whether the
parents had been so treated [2]. The implication is that it is
unethical to use as breeding stock dogs that were treated to prevent
their symptoms from disappearing. On the other hand, pet owners with
no intention of breeding their dogs might consider reading [1].
[1] Kealy, et al. "Effects of limited food consumption on the
incidence of hip dysplasia in growing dogs." JAVMA, v201, n6 Sept 15
1992.
[2] Willis, Malcom, Genetics of the Dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Infectious Canine Hepatitis
(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)
This disease should NOT be confused with human hepatitis. This is a
highly contagious disease transmissible only to dogs. It affects the
liver, kidneys and lining of the blood vessels. It can sometimes be
hard to distinguish from distemper as there are a variety of signs and
symptoms that range from mild to fatal. Exposed dogs rapidly become
contagious and remain contagious throughout convalescence.
Fatal form: the dog becomes ill, develops bloody diarrhea, collapses
and dies. Puppies may die without symptoms.
Acute form: High fever, bloody diarrhea, possibly bloody vomit.
Refusal to eat and painful movements. The dog can become
light-sensitive.
Mild form: Lethargy, possible loss of appetite.
_________________________________________________________________
Kennel Cough (Infectious Tracheobronchitis)
This is characterized by a harsh, convulsive cough. It is persistent,
contagious, and often develops into secondary complications, such as
chronic bronchitis. This disease can eventually be fatal. If your dog
is exposed to many other dogs, or will be boarded at a kennel, it
should be vaccinated against this. It is so-called, because it spreads
rapidly under "kennel" conditions -- many dogs kept relatively close
together.
"Kennel Cough" is a generic name for a set of symptoms caused by a
number of organisms. These include parainfluenza as well as
bordatella, as well as many others. Dogs vaccinated with the
bordatella vaccine can still get "kennel cough" because of all the
bugs involved, but it tends to be much less severe.
Bordatella vaccine is squirted into each nostril of the dog and should
be repeated semi-annually. Parainfluenza vaccine should be a normal
part of your dog's regular shots.
The vaccination is not effective for the first 24 hours, so if you are
getting your dog vaccinated because you will be boarding it, get it
done at least several days in advance!
_________________________________________________________________
Kidney Failure
Acute kidney failure, or kidney failure, is sudden and extreme and
requires urgent care. Usually the dog recovers completely if it
survives at all.
Chronic kidney failure, or kidney disease, is common in old dogs. The
kidneys slowly wear out over a long time. It can be diagnosed by a
blood test or urinalysis. Early signs include drinking and urinating
more, since the kidneys need extra water, and foamy urine is sometimes
seen.
Treatment is mostly dietary. They need a very low protein diet that is
also low in certain minerals. The kidneys are stressed by too much
protein and will wear out more slowly on a low protein diet. Dogs with
sick kidneys should be given all the water they will drink.
The best known kidney diet is Hills K/D, but there is also Hi-Tor
Neodiet, Neura Kidney Diet, and others. Some "senior dog food" is low
in protein as well, but not as low as the kidney foods.
If you have any reason to suspect it, have the dog checked by a vet.
Many old-dog kidney cases live happily for years with no special care
other than the food.
_________________________________________________________________
Leptospirosis
(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)
In most cases the disease is mild. Primary symptoms are fever,
listlessness, loss of appetite and depression. Other symptoms involve
the kidneys: a "hunched up" look due to kidney pain, ulcers on the
mucus membranes of the mouth and tongue, thick brown coating on the
tongue, bleeding from the mouth or bloody stools, severe thirst with
increased urination. The whites of the eyes may turn yellow.
Persistent vomiting and diarrhea are common. This disease is more
prevalent in some areas than others.
Many dogs seem to be allergic to the leptospirosis vaccination. If
your dog is vaccination against lepto for the first time, keep a close
eye on it for a few hours afterwards. If the dog goes into anaphylitic
shock, get him back to the vet immediately.
_________________________________________________________________
Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD)
Summarized from a set of articles posted by Jim Jaskie,
jim_j...@tempeqm.sps.mot.com
EXCESSIVE LICKING:
Retrievers that lick their paws excessively, horses that "stump suck",
Dobermans that "flank suck" share the same disorder. The disorder is
generally mild and most people never notice it, but sometimes it can
go too far and become a hindrance to normal functioning.
Dr. Judith Rapaport (head of the Child Psychiatry Branch of the
National Institute of Mental Health and author of "The Boy Who
Couldn't Stop Washing") explored this area thoroughly, because of
similarities with a human malady called "Obsessive Compulsive Disorder
(OCD)." This is a disorder that induces unusual behavior such as an
irresistible desire to wash your hands, over and over, even when they
are not dirty.
The experiments at NIMH showed that this behavior is caused by a lack
of Seratonin. This lack can be caused by a genetic predisposition and
also by stress. Proper medication was shown to relieve similar
problems in dogs, horses and people! Some of the reported results were
on Labradors that literally licked the hair off of their paws,
dropping the habit completely after medication.
This research is also a landmark in the understanding of the effect of
some of the neural transmitters and has led to a whole new family of
some wonderful new medicines. This work has already saved dogs, horses
and people from one of nature's less pleasant maladies, and promises
to shed light on other problems such as epilepsy.
The medication that Dr. Judith Rapoport found to work for dogs with
acralick dermatitis as well as Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) is
Clomipramine (brand name is Anafranil). However, Fluoxetine (brand
name is Prozac) is now being used very successfully for OCD and has
fewer side effects. You should discuss this with your vet, who will be
able to prescribe these medications for your dog if it has OCD.
Some old-ish but very informative articles that describe this problem
are "Chemistry of Compulsion" by Robert Trotter in the June 1990 issue
of Discover magazine and the very thorough but easy to read article,
"The Biology of Obsessions and Compulsions" by Dr. Rapoport in the
March 1989 issue of Scientific American. Only the first article
specifically mentions Rapoport's work with dogs, but if you want to
understand what is really going on, read both articles.
_________________________________________________________________
Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
Osteochondrosis dissecans affects dogs of the large rapidly growing
breeds between the ages of four and twelve months. It usually is found
in the shoulder joints, but rarely it can affect the hocks or stifles.
It is due to a defect in the cartilage overlying the head of one of
the long bones. A puppy who jumps down stairs might sustain such an
injury. The tendency for cartilage to be easily damaged may be
hereditary. Repeated stress to the joint perpetrates the condition.
The signs are gradual lameness in a young dog of one of the larger
breeds, typically between six to seven months of age.
The lesions primarily affect cartilage and secondarily bone, and can
occur in the elbow, shoulder, hock, and/or stifle, though the elbow is
by far the most common. When the condition is associated with
inflammatory joint changes it is known as OCD. Two other forms of
osteochondrosis are ununited anconeal process (UAP) and fragmented
coronoid process (FCP).
Pain is present on flexing the joint. X-rays may show fragmentation of
the joint cartilage, or a loose piece of cartilage in the joint.
Treatment: The condition can be treated by confinement, or by surgical
removal of the damaged cartilage. Recovery from surgery is often good.
Pain pills are not recommended, as they are in most traumatic joint
conditions, because they encourage the dog to exercise which only
further damages the joint.
_________________________________________________________________
Panosteitis (puppy limp)
Also called pano, this is an inflammation of the membrane covering the
bone and is relatively common. Rest, quiet, and sometimes a
vet-approved painkiller are generally recommended for the puppy. Some
vets recommend a reduced protien (usually an adult mixture) diet. This
can strike anytime between 6-18 months of age and rarely lasts past
two years of age.
If the limping goes from leg to leg (i.e., one day the dog limps on
the right rear leg and the next it limps on the left front), it is
very likely pano. Pano can also be diagnosed via x-rays.
Fortunately, lasting effects are uncommon, and most puppies outgrow
it. It is not known what causes pano, the belief is that there is
either a hereditary link, perhaps just a predisposition toward,
causing pano.
_________________________________________________________________
Patellar Subluxation
Thanks to Edwin Barkdoll for this summary, and to Jeff Parke for
comments:
There are many types and degrees of patellar luxation. The patella
(kneecap) can luxate (dislocate) medially (towards the body midline)
or laterally (away from the midline) and can be traumatic or
congenital in origin. Small or toy breeds are much more likely to have
this problem than larger breeds and they tend towards medial
luxations; larger breeds tend to have lateral luxations if they
develop this problem.
A system has been devised for grading patellar luxations: Type I -
luxation seen only with leg in extension and when pressure is applied
to the patella directly say during a physical exam by the vet,
luxation resolves spontaneously when pressure is removed. Type II -
patella is usually in normal position, but luxates with pressure or
during flexion of the limb. The patella does not spontaneously return
to normal but can be returned to normal manually or by the dog itself.
Type III - patella is luxated most of the time but can be temporarily
returned to normal position manually. Type IV - patella is always
luxated and cannot be returned to normal position manually.
Surgical correction is not usually considered necessary unless the dog
shows symptoms - pain, gait abnormalities - but you should talk with
your vet about your options and get a second opinion if necessary.
Regarding surgical success, apparently about 50% of surgically treated
cases demonstrate recurrent patellar luxation after 1-7 years
although the severity of the patellar luxation at followup was reduced
and about 90% (!) showed no signs of lameness. For the curious, the
(incomplete) reference for these data is Willauer and Vasseur (1987)
in Veterinary Surgery.
_________________________________________________________________
Poisons
If you need to induce vomiting, first make sure that it's
appropriate to do so. Don't induce vomiting
* more than two hours after ingesting problematic substance
* when the substance is an acid, alkali, solvent, or petroleum
product, as it will do as much damage on the way up as it did the
way down
* when dog is comatose or very depressed
To induce vomiting:
* 1 teaspoon hydrogen peroxide per 30lbs body weight; give once,
repeat after ten minutes; don't administer more than three times;
some dogs will drool and look miserable before vomiting
* 1 teaspoon syrup of Ipecac per 10lbs body weight; works quickly
* 1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt placed far back on the tongue or dissolved
in 1 oz water; do not repeat dosage; dry mustard powder (s ame
instructions) may be substituted
LOCAL POISON CONTROL CENTERS
Check the emergency room of the local hospital and ask for the number
of the local Poison Control Center. You should have this number up on
the refrigerator alongside the vet's number and the emergency care
number.
NATIONAL ANIMAL POISON CONTROL CENTER
The National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC) provides a 24-hour
emergency hotline that every dog owner should keep in plain sight. The
hotline numbers are (800)548-2423 and (900)680-0000. The 800 number
requires a credit card number and charges a flat $30; the 900 number
is $2.95 per minute for a maximum of $30.
The NAPCC is a non-profit service of the University of Illinois and is
the first animal-oriented poison center in the United States. Since
1978, it has provided advice to animal owners and conferred with
veterinarians about poisoning exposures. The NAPCC's phones are
answered by licensed veterinarians and board-certified veterinary
toxicologists. They have specialized information that lets the
experienced NAPCC staff make specific recommendations for your
animals; plus over 250,000 records are in their database.
When you call, be ready to provide:
* Your name, address, and phone number;
* If calling the 800 number, your credit card number;
* The species, breed, age, sex, weight, and number of animals
involved;
* The poison your animals have been exposed to, if known;
* Information concerning the poisoning (the amount of poison, the
time since exposure, etc.); and
* The problems your animals are experiencing.
Household products and plants are the most common culprits in
poisoning cases. In the case of poisoning from household products,
many companies cover the costs the pet owners incur when it has been
determined that their product is responsible for the reaction.
For further information, write to: The American Humane Association, 63
Inverness Drive East, Englewood, CO 80112-5117, or call (303)
792-9900.
FOODS
Chocolate, tea, coffee, cola:
It is not chocolate itself that is poisonous to dogs, it is the
theobromine, a naturally occuring compound found in chocolate.
Theobromine causes different reactions to different dogs: dogs with
health problems, especially epilepsy, are more affected by theobromine
than healthy dogs. Theobromine can trigger epileptic seizures in dogs
prone to or at risk of epilepsy. The size of the dog will also be a
major factor: the smaller the dog, the more affected it is by the same
amount than a larger dog. Therefore, toxicity is described on a mg/Kg
basis.
Furthermore, theobromine can cause cardiac irregularity, especially if
the dog becomes excited. Cardiac arythmia can precipitate a myocardial
infarct which can kill the dog.
Theobromine also irritates the GI tract and in some dogs can cause
internal bleeding which in some cases kills them a day or so later.
Theobromine is also present in differing amounts in different kinds of
chocolate. milk chocolate has 44-66 mg/oz, dark chocolate 450 mg/oz
and baking/bitter chocolate or cocoa powder varies as much as 150-600
mg/oz. How much chocolate a dog can survive depends on its weight (and
other unknown circumstances). Under 200 mg theobromine per kg body
weight no deaths have been observed.
Theobromine will stay in the bloodstream between 14 and 20 hours. It
goes back into the bloodstream through the stomach lining and takes a
long time for the body to filter out. Because theobromine is
eliminated through the liver rather than through the kidneys, it takes
a long time to eliminate it.
Within two hours of ingestion, try inducing vomiting unless your dog
is markedly stimulated, comatose, or has lost the gag reflex. If your
dog has eaten a considerable amount of chocolate, or displays any of
the above symptoms, take it to the vet without delay.
In the absence of major symptoms, administer activated charcoal. The
unabsorbed theobromine will chemically bond to this and be eliminated
in the feces. In pinch, burnt (as in thoroughly burnt, crumbling in
hand) toast will do.
Nuts:
Walnuts are poisonous to dogs and should be avoided. Many nuts are not
good for dogs in general, their high phosporous content is said to
possibly lead to bladder stones.
Misc:
Onions, especially raw onions, have been shown to trigger hemolytic
anemia in dogs.
Potato poisonings among people and dogs have occurred. Solanum
alkaloids can be found in in green sprouts and green potato skins,
which occurs when the tubers are exposed to sunlight during growth or
after harvest. The relatively rare occurrence of actual poisoning is
due to several factors: solanine is poorly absorbed; it is mostly
hydrolyzed into less toxic solanidinel; and the metabolites are
quickly eliminated. Note that cooked, mashed potatoes are fine for
dogs, actually quite nutritious and digestible.
Turkey skin is currently thought to cause acute pancreatis in dogs.
POISONOUS HOUSEPLANTS
In assessing the risk to your dog from these plants, you need to
consider both the age of your dog and it's propensity to chew on
plants. Many of the below toxic plants rarely cause problems because
most dogs don't chew them -- the exceptions being, of course, young
puppies who are inclined to explore the world with their mouths,
teething dogs who may chew on everything, and older dogs that are
simply fond of chewing. Oleander, for example, is rather toxic, but
most cases of poisoning involve 1) cattle, other grazing livestock 2)
puppies and 3) human babies/toddlers.
Dumb cane is probably the one plant that should always be kept out of
reach, since it takes only one nibble to have a potentially fatal
situation.
(from Carlson & Giffin.)
* That give rash after contact with the skin or mouth:
(mums might produce dermatitis)
chrysanthemum poinsettia creeping fig
weeping fig spider mum pot mum
* Irritating (toxic oxalates), especially the mouth gets swollen;
tongue pain; sore lips; some swell so quickly a tracheotomy is
needed before asphyxiation:
arrowhead vine majesty boston ivy
neththytis ivy colodium pathos
emerald duke red princess heart leaf (philodendron)
split leaf (phil.) saddle leaf (phil.) marble queen
* Toxic plants - may contain wide variety of poisons. Most cause
vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps. Some cause tremors, heart and
respiratory and/or kidney problems, which are difficult for owner
to interpret:
amaryllis elephant ears pot mum
asparagus fern glocal ivy ripple ivy
azalea heart ivy spider mum
bird of paradise ivy sprangeri fern
creeping charlie jerusalem cherry umbrella plant
crown of thorns needlepoint ivy
POISONOUS OUTDOOR PLANTS
(from Carlson & Giffin.)
* Produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases:
delphinium poke weed indian tobacco
daffodil bittersweet woody wisteria
castor bean ground cherry soap berry
indian turnip fox glove skunk cabbage
larkspur
* May produce vomiting, abdominal pain, and in some cases diarrhea
horse chestnut buckeye western yew apricot, almond
rain tree monkey pod english holly peach, cherry
privet wild cherry mock orange
japanese plum american yew bird of paradise
balsam pear english yew black locust
* Varied toxic effect
rhubarb buttercup moonseed
spinach nightshade may apple
sunburned potatoes poison hemolock dutchman's breeches
tomato vine jimson weed mescal bean
loco weed pig weed angel's trumpet
lupine water hemlock jasmine
dologeton mushrooms matrimony vine
dumb cane
* Hallucinogens
marijuana periwinkle morning glory
peyote nutmeg loco weed
* Convulsions
china berry nux vomica coriaria
water hemlock moon weed
POISONOUS HOUSEHOLD ITEMS
Acetaminophen Laxatives
AntiFreeze Lead
Aspirin Lye
Bleach Matches
Boric Acid Metal Polish
Brake Fluid Mineral Spirits
Carbon Monoxide Mothballs
Carbuerator Cleaner Nail Polish and Remover
Christmas Tinsel Paint & Remover
Cleaning Fluid Perm Solutions
Deoderants/Deoderizers Phenol
Detergents Photo Developer
Disinfectants Rat Poison
Drain Cleaner Rubbing Alcohol
Dye Shoe Polish
Fungicides Sleeping Pills
Furniture Polish Soaps
Gasoline Suntan Lotions
Hair Colorings Tar
Herbicides Turpentine
Insecticides Windshield Fluid
Kerosene Woodstains
POISONOUS ANIMALS
Bufo toads. Found in various areas, especially in south Florida. Very
poisonous -- it can kill a small dog in a matter of minutes. It burns
the mucous membrane of the mouth (gums) which is why they drool and
foam, and that's also how it enters the bloodstream. It kills by
elevating the heart rate and blood pressure to deadly levels, similar
to the effects of chocolate. There is an antidote and the effects can
be lessened if you immediately flush the dog's mouth with water before
taking it to the vet.
_________________________________________________________________
Rabies
From information supplied by Margaret F. Riley:
Rabies is transmitted by body fluids--urine, saliva, or blood. An
animal that has rolled in a rabid carcass or has fought with a rabid
animal and has gotten saliva on its fur can still carry rabies home to
you and your family. Friends of mine are now being treated for
exposure to rabies after playing with the raccoon kits adopted by
another family. Only the dog is safe. Ironic, no?
For rabies to infect you, it must come in contact with the skin or be
ingested. Dogs and cats can ingest it by getting the saliva or blood
of a rabid animal in their mouths where it will be absorbed through
the mucous membranes. Humans are particularly at risk since we have so
many minute cuts in our skin, that if we touch our dog or cat after
he/she has met a rabid animal, we can become infected. Dog safe,
family rabid.
Rabies cannot be detected by a blood test since it invades the neural
system. The only detection at this time is by examining the brain
after death for signs of the infection. The incubation time is 3-6
months, which is why the standard quarantine for animals in some
countries is 6 months.
Call the local health inspector, animal control officer, or police if
your dog or cat has tangled with another animal that you suspect might
be rabid. Dogs and cats which have been vaccinated against rabies
should wear a tag at all times when not in the house to prevent being
destroyed to check for rabies. It is much more serious than a bite, it
is the transmission of body fluids which moves the virus around.
Additional information from kxd...@psuvm.psu.edu:
This debate on the transmission of rabies is beginning to sound like
the debate that has been raging about AIDS. What I learned in my
veterinary science courses and my animal management courses is as
follows:
* Rabies is transmitted through bite wounds, especially the puncture
wounds , as it needs a damp place for the virus to live and
"incubate". I have never heard it mentioned that the rabies virus
can pass through mucous membranes and skin, unless this is a new
development (or a new fear, like AIDS in the air).
* The virus travels along the nerves until it reaches the brain and
kills the animal. This is why the brain is needed for the test and
the test can only be performed if the animal has been killed. This
is also why the incubation period for the virus varies. The virus
is also very sensitive and requires very specific conditions to
survive.
* Most veterinarians will recommend another booster as soon as
possible if the dog has been bit or is suspected to have been bit.
The sooner the better to help protect against the virus before it
has time to spread.
_________________________________________________________________
Ringworm
(prepared by Edwin Barkdoll)
Despite the name, ringworm is caused by a fungus Microsporum canis
and less frequently by other species. Ringworm infections remain
limited to skin and superficial structures like hair and less
frequently nails in cats and dogs. The infecting fungi require the
keratin in superficial skin layers and nails, horns etc for their
metabolism and furthermore do not grow well at the warmer temperatures
of subcutaneous tissues, hence the superficial distribution. Note that
ringoworm agents are obligate parasites - they normally live on the
skin, although not in pathogenic numbers.
It can be transmitted between animals by skin abrasion or mild trauma,
grooming tools, scabs etc particularly if the animal's immune system
has been compromised, e.g. with steroids. In a normal, healthy animal
ringworm infections are usually mild and self limiting, say 1-2
months. A major motivation for getting rid of a ringworm infection is
to prevent you the owner from getting it.
If it is a mild infection topical application of lime sulfur is
supposed to be good, although it can be smelly. Chlorhexidine shampoo
is also effective as is also a relatively new 2% miconazole shampoo
($$$). If the infection is severe, oral griseofulvin is effective but
also $$$.
The round, ring-like lesions are suggestive but _not_ diagnostic and
are not even the typical lestion in cats and dogs. The animal may have
itchy, scaly, crusty and hairless areas. Fungal culture is probably
the best diagnostic method but many vets are not set up to culture
fungi. A Wood's lamp can be used but not all ringworm agents will
fluouresce so absence of fluourescence does not mean no ringworm,
furthermore other things besides ringworm also fluoresce. In other
words Wood's lamp is not a great test. Microscopic examination of skin
scrapings may reveal the actual organism.
Finally, if you think your dog/cat has ringworm take it to the vet for
diagnosis and treatment. If it does have ringworm, you can get it,
but prevention is straightforward - treat your animal.
_________________________________________________________________
Thyroid Disorders
Common symptoms are:
* seeking warm places to curl up
* lessened activity
* slow coat growth, brittle fur
* ring around the neck where fur won't grow, or loss of hair in
trunk
* loss of appetite/excessive appetite
* dry, thickened skin
* prone to skin infections
* infertility
Dogs are often middle-aged or older, although this also occurs in
younger dogs. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, hypothyroidism
is common in all breeds and all sexes, although the incidence is
highest in spayed females. Treatment involves daily thyroid pills, a
permanent regimen.
In the March '92 issue of Dog World is an excellent article,
"Autoimmune thyroid disease" by Dr. Jean Dodds DVM (a nationally
recognized expert on the subject) explains a lot about thyroid
conditions in dogs. She also goes to great effort to explain that dogs
can be hypothyroid without showing the "classic" signs. She also
explains typical course of treatment and followups. There's also a
long list of breeds that are "predisposed" to problems.
[As a counterweight, note that many vets do not take Dr. Dodds
seriously because she does not publish in respected journals such as
JAVMA but rather in "popular" magazines. So always discuss fully and
candidly with your vet and bear in mind that many otherwise
"asymptomatic" dogs are diagnosed with low or abnormal thyroid levels.
This article is not attempting to argue one way or another over Dr.
Dodds' credentials, it's merely trying to be as informative as
possible.]
More subtle signs:
* overweight despite controlled diets
* thin coats (not hair loss)
* smelling bad
* chronic ear infections
* seizures.
* sudden changes in temperament
The article by Dr. Dodds points out that the "subtle" signs are just
now being recognized by the veterinary community.
There is another article about thyroid problems in the Sept or Oct
('91) Dog World, and again, pointing out more unusual signs in the
Sept. '92 issue of Dog World.
_________________________________________________________________
Ununited Anconeal Process
Ununited anconeal process has been knonwn for quite a while in in the
German Shepherd Dog, but can also occur in other breeds (Dobermans
and, increasingly, Golden Retrievers) It is really only one part of a
constellation of problems collectively referred to as elbow dysplasia.
One of the other things that can occur alone or with UAP is OCD
(Osteochondrosis Dissecans) of the elbow.
This is a serious condition because it usually results in arthritis
and efforts need to be made to be sure that the dog has enough
exercise to keep fit, but not so much or of the wrong kind that would
make the arthritis more severe. The condition should be handled
surgically by an experienced orthopedic specialist.
It is thought to be genetic, and OFA now certifies dogs based on
X-rays in the belief that its incidence will be reduced this way.
_________________________________________________________________
von Willebrand's Disease
Contributed by Gary Mason
Von Willebrand's disease (vWD) is an inherited bleeding disorder. It
is a complex and difficult disorder to deal with, because genetics,
diagnostic abnormalities, pathogenic mechanisms, and sometimes
conflicting clinical signs are all involved. The commonality between
all vWD is a reduction in the amount or function of von Willebrand
factor (vWF), which is manifested through abnormal platelet function
and prolonged bleeding time. Different breeds exhibit different
variations of the disease, and some individual animals appear to
"acquire" vWD.
While the bulk of the information available is based upon purebred
dogs, the disease is not unknown in mixed breeds. The total number of
breeds affected by vWF exceeds 50. The disease also appears in cats,
pigs, horses, and humans.
Human variants of vWD are broken into three main types which can be
used to describe canine vWD. Type I vWD is characterized by a low
concentration of normally structured protein. In screening studies
done at Cornell over a period of years (1982-1992), percentages of
dogs of some breeds tested as carrying the disease, and with
concentrations of vWF less than 50% of standard (considered to be at
risk) were:
Breed Total # Tested Average % Affected
(through 1/93) 1982-87 1988-92
----- -------------- ------------------
Corgi 3726 29 42
Poodle (std & min) 4048 17 29
Scottie 6505 14 30
Golden Retriever 6906 14 27
Doberman 22255 64 74
Sheltie 9393 22 34
Akita * 981 0 27
Cairn ** 411 0 23
* Totals for years 1989-1992.
** Totals for years 1990-1992.
All others for years 1988-1992.
Other breeds with a known prevalence of vWD in excess of 15% include
Basset Hounds, Dachshunds (mini & std), German Wirehaired Pointers,
German Shepherds, Keeshonds, Manchester Terriers (std & toy),
Miniature Schnauzers, and Rottweilers.
Type II vWD is characterized by a low concentration of an abnormal
vWF. Breeds in which severe type II-like vWD has been diagnosed
include American Cocker Spaniels, German Shorthaired Pointers, and
German Wirehaired Pointers.
Type III vWD is essentially the complete absence of vWF. Severe type
III vWD has been diagnosed in Australian Cattle Dogs, Chesapeake Bay
Retrievers, Fox Terriers (toy), German Shepherds, Scottish Terriers,
and Shetland Sheepdogs.
In vWD dogs, bleeding can be spontaneous - usually from the mucosa of
the mouth, nose, or gastro-intestinal tract. Injury that is
accompanied by bleeding may continue unabated until a transfusion is
administered. Whether or not bleeding from small wounds will stop
without treatment is not predictable.
Living with one of these affected animals can get quite interesting.
You must be careful with him in the house; by always having him on a
leash or within our sight in a portable pen when outside; and by
having a unit of frozen plasma at the veterinarian's at all times.
Obviously, elective surgery is not advised. Required surgery can be
preceded by transfusion with good results, though you can never be
certain.
Lastly, most of these diseases can be stopped by testing before
breeding, and through selective breeding. Unfortunately, experience
and hearsay indicate that the AKC is not active in the enforcement of
these preventive measures. Apparently the breeders, at least some of
them, are not either. You should insist that the parents of a litter
in a high risk breed have been checked prior to breeding -- and that
the puppies have likewise been tested.
Test kits and instructions for vWD are available from:
Comparative Hematology Section - Diagnostic Laboratory
College of Veterinary Medicine, Cornell University
P. O. Box 5786
Ithaca, NY 14852-5786
607/253-3900 Voice
607/253-3943 FAX
These folks are very concerned and cooperative. I have exchanged
several Emails and phone calls with them. They are interested in the
dog's history, and are happy to hear anecdotal information - it is
just one more piece to the puzzle. They also maintain a (large) kennel
for affected dogs, so that might be an alternative if you can't keep
one, but don't want to put it down.
NOTE: Most of the information above has been gleaned from data and
information developed at, and published by, the New York State
Department of Health Hematology Laboratory.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Medical Information, Part II FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
YOUR NEW PUPPY
Author
Cindy Tittle Moore, Copyright 1995.
Originally written April 1992.
Table of Contents
* Introduction
* Age to Separate from Litter
* Puppy-Proofing Your Home
* Puppies and Small Children
* Acclimatization and Socialization
* Don't Be Surprised When...
* Reinforcing Good Behavior
* Crying at Night
* Health: Vaccinations and Worms
* Teething
* Feeding Your Puppy
+ Feeding schedules
+ Dog food formulations
* Housetraining
* Preliminary Training
+ Obedience classes
+ Around the house
_________________________________________________________________
Introduction
A quick critical information list:
* Never hit a young puppy.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Be consistent with your dog, rather than harsh.
* Don't allow biting, but only correct after 14 weeks (yelp and
replace hand with toy before that)
* Never correct a dog after the fact.
* Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places, when
very young to get socialized.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity so
they can develop confidence.
* Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it
purpose, and make it tolerable.
* Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you are
not above your dog, you will be below it.
* Praise exuberantly.
* Dominance over a dog is achieved with leadership, never harshness.
Some books that may help:
Benjamin, Carol Lea. Mother Knows Best: The Natural Way To Train Your
Dog. Howell Book House, New York. 1985. ISBN 0-87605-666-4. $15.95
hardcover.
She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she
does not recommend food training a young puppy. She does recommend
crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room
with the puppy. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad
dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out,
cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. She talks about
canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with
your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him
copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy. Most
training methods rely on the foundational relationship between an
owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on establishing
that relationship while the puppy is still young.
Brahms, Ann and Paul. Puppy Ed.. Ballantine Books. 1981.
ISBN:0-345-33512-0 (paperback).
Describes how to start teaching your puppy commands. This is a
thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and
cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. They stress that
by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more
formal training goes much easier.
Monks of New Skete, The. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown
and Company (1991). ISBN: 0-316-57839-8 (hardback).
The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that
discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at
the appropriate stages and why. First they follow a newborn litter
through its various stages of development and at each stage they
discuss what is happening. They discuss testing puppies'
temperaments and what you want to look for, under which
circumstances. They discuss briefly dog breeds, and how to find
reputable breeders. They then launch into a series of useful
chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the
foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to
become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general
care. A good bibliography is provided at the back.
Randolph, Elizabeth. How to Help Your Puppy Grow Up to be a Wonderful
Dog. ISBN 0-449-21503-2.
The April 1993 edition of Dog Fancy is a "puppy primer" and it
contains articles on how to choose a breeder, name your puppy, make
housetraining easy, introduce grooming and solve basic puppy problems.
It works well in conjuction with the Monk and Benjamin books.
_________________________________________________________________
Age to Separate from Litter
Puppies should not be separated from their mother and littermates
before 8 weeks of age. Many recommend 10 weeks minimum. This is
related to physical considerations such as weaning and psychological
considerations such as the puppy's readiness to leave the litter.
Many breeders believe it is best to NOT have two puppies together.
They tend to bond to each other and not to you and that can cause
serious problems when it comes time to train them. Having two puppies
needing housetraining at the same time can make that process go on for
much longer. This implies that you would not introduce a second dog
before the other six months old and properly trained.
There are always exceptions, of course, and there are many happy dogs
dogs that were littermates or otherwise puppies together out there.
_________________________________________________________________
Puppy-Proofing Your Home
You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew
whatever they can get at in your absence. You must put the puppy where
either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the possible
damage. Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture, chew on
carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things. Besides the
destruction, the puppy may well injure itself, even seriously.
A good solution to this is a crate. A crate is any container, made of
wire mesh or plastic, that will hold the puppy comfortably, with
enough room to stand and curl up and sleep, but not too much that it
can eliminate in one corner. See the section on crates below. Other
solutions include fencing off part of the house, say the kitchen or
garage or building an outside run. Be sure the area is puppy-proofed.
Please put your pup in an environment it can't destroy. Puppies are
too immature to handle temptations. Depending on the breed, most dogs
begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild
temptations when they're about 6 months old. Consider the analogy with
a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are not
holding it.
It is essential to puppy-proof your home. You should think of it in
the same way as child-proofing your house but be more through about
it. Puppies are smaller and more active than babies and have sharp
teeth and claws. Things of especial concern are electric wires. If you
can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a shock
from chewing a wire you are doing a great job! When puppy proofing
your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if possible) and
consider things from this angle. What looks enticing, what is
breakable, what is sharp, etc. The most important things are watching
the puppy and, of course, crating it or otherwise restraining it when
you can't watch it.
Another step in puppy proofing is house proofing the puppy. Teach it
what is and isn't chewable. The single most effective way to do this
is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand. When the puppy
starts to chew on an unacceptable item (be it a chair, rug, or human
hand), remove the item from the puppy's mouth with a stern, "NO!" and
replace it with a chew toy and praise the puppy for playing with the
toy. If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea
that only the things you give it are to be chewed on! Don't stint on
the praise, and keep the "No!" to a single calm, sharp noise -- don't
yell or scream the word.
There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus
aid in your training. Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange (available at
most pet stores) impart a bitter taste to many things without
staining, etc. You should not depend on these products to keep your
puppy safe, but use them as a training aid.
_________________________________________________________________
Puppies and Small Children
Keep puppies and very small children apart or under close supervision.
Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of
puppies' eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails,
among other problems. So keep children 6 years or so and younger away
from the puppy until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy.
Teach your children how to approach a puppy or dog, to prevent being
jumped on. They should understand that they should put out their hands
below the pup's chin, to keep it from jumping at a hand above its
head. They should not scream or run away, as the puppy will then chase
the child.
There are several books dealing with children and dogs. Try Jack and
Collen McDaniel's Pooches and Small Fry, published by Doral
Publishing, 800-858-9055. This book is full of good suggestions for
teaching both children and dogs how to behave with one another.
_________________________________________________________________
Acclimatization and Socialization
Accustom your puppy to many things at a young age. Baths, brushing,
clipping nails, cleaning ears, having teeth examined, and so on.
Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for
your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its
life.
For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put
its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it
with your fingers. Do this every evening until the dog stops fussing
about it. Continue to do it and you'll always know if your dog's ears
are okay.
Brushing is important, especially for double coated or long-haired
dogs when they begin to shed. A little effort now to get your puppy to
enjoy brushing will save you a lot of trouble later when it begins to
shed and shed and shed...
During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be
exposed to a variety of social situations. After the puppy has had all
its shots, carefully expose it to the outside world. Take it to
different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different
neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you
can think of that would be different for a little puppy. If the puppy
seems afraid, then let it explore by itself. Encourage the puppy, but
be firm, not coaxing. If you want to take the pup in an elevator, let
it try it on its own, but firmly insist that it have the experience.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a
good place; dog shows are another. You want the pup to learn about the
world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it is
an adult. You also want it to learn that you will not ask it to do
anything dangerous or harmful. Socializing your dog can be much fun
for you and the dog!
Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs
exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers. DO NOT "soothe" them,
or say things like "easy, boy/girl," "it's OK..." This serves as
REINFORCEMENT and ENCOURAGES the fear or growling! Instead, say "no!"
sharply and praise it WHEN IT STOPS. Praise it even more when it
allows its head to be petted. If it starts growling or backing up
again, say "no!" Be a little more gentle with the "no" if the dog
exhibits fear, but do be firm. With a growling dog, be much more
emphatic and stern with your "no!"
If you are planning to attend a puppy class (and you should, they are
not expensive) ask the instructor about her/his views before you sign
up. If socialization is not part of the class, look elsewhere.
The Art of Raising a Puppy has many valuable tips and interesting
points on the subject of socializing puppies.
_________________________________________________________________
Don't Be Surprised When...
Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to
the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom. Many puppies do
not begin this behavior until they are four or five months old.
Your puppy does not seem to pick its name up quickly. Sometimes it
takes several weeks before you consistently get a reaction when you
say its name. (Be careful not to use its name in a negative sense!
Clap or shout instead.)
Your puppy does not seem to be particularly happy with verbal praise.
You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months
before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise.
Your puppy falls asleep in the middle of some other activity. Puppies
need lots of sleep but since they are easily distracted, they
sometimes forget to go to sleep and so will fall asleep at bizarre
times: while eating, chewing, or even running.
Your puppy twitches while sleeping. This indicates healthy neural
development. Twitching will be most pronounced for the first few
months of the puppy's life, and slowly diminish thereafter. There are
many adult dogs that continue some twitching. Expect muffled woofs and
snuffling noises, too.
Your puppy hiccups. Many puppies hiccup. The only thing to do is wait
for them to pass. Don't worry about it, they will outgrow it.
_________________________________________________________________
Reinforcing Good Behavior
Puppies want attention. They will do a lot to get that attention --
even if it is negative! Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing
things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good,
you are reinforcing the wrong things. Ignore the bad things (or stop
it without yelling or scolding) and enthusiastically praise it when
its doing what you want, even if it's as simple as sitting and looking
at you, or quietly chewing one of its toys. This can be difficult to
do, as it is essentially inverting all your normal reactions. But it
is very important: you will wind up with a puppy that pays attention
to you and is happy to do what you want, if it understands you.
_________________________________________________________________
Crying at Night
Your puppy wants to be with the rest of the "pack" at bedtime. This
behavior is highly adaptive from the standpoint of dog behavior. When
a puppy becomes separated from its pack it will whine, thereby
allowing it to be found and returned to the rest of the group. This is
why so many books on puppies and dog behavior strongly recommend that
you allow your puppy/dog to sleep with you in your room to reduce the
liklihood of crying at night.
Try moving the crate into your bedroom. If your puppy whines, first
make sure it doesn't have to go outside to eliminate. This means
getting up and taking it outside. If it whines again, or doesn't need
to go outside, bang your hand on the crate door and say something like
"NO, SLEEP" or "NO, QUIET". If the puppy continues to whine, try
giving it a toy or chew toy and then simply ignore any continued
whining. If you don't reinforce the whining by comforting it (other
than to take it outside -- which is OK), it will eventually learn to
settle down. Also, be sure to have a vigorous play session JUST BEFORE
you are going to go to bed. This should poop it out and it will sleep
much more soundly.
Alternatively, you can designate a spot for your puppy on the bedroom
floor. Keep the door closed or put a leash on it to keep it close to
the bed. When it whines or moves about, take it out to eliminate.
Otherwise, as above, say "NO, SLEEP."
Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be
comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the
laundry.
_________________________________________________________________
Health: Vaccinations and Worms
Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum
contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch was
properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place).
Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens
(passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are
very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so
important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical
time). After the colostrum ceases (a day or so later), the maternal
antigens decline steadily.
During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity
because the passive immunity gets in the way. As the passive immunity
gradually declines, the pup's immune system takes over. At this time,
the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can
build up their own antibodies against them. However, there is no way
to tell when passive immunity is gone. This is why pups should be
given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at
LEAST three shots).
Picture a plot of antibody level versus time. Maternal antibody is
steadily declining. You just don't know the rate. At some level, say
X, protection from parvo is sufficient. Below X, protection may be
less than effective against an infection. In general, vaccine antigen
cannot stimulate the puppy's own immune system until the maternal
antibody level is below X. Let's say it is .7*X. Here's the rub. The
antibody level spends some time dropping from X to .7X. During this
time, even if you vaccinated every day, you would (in this theoretical
discussion) not be able to stimulate immunity. Yet you are below that
level of maternal protection at which infection can be effectively
fought off.
Thus the importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week
intervals until around 16-18 weeks. One maximizes the chance of
catching the puppy's immune system as soon as it is ready to respond,
minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to
infection.
IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4
months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of
the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!).
Up until 8 weeks or so, the shots should consist of Distemper,
Measles, and CPI. After that, it should be DHLPP (Distemper,
Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus). This is at
minimum: you may need to add other vaccinations appropriate to your
area, such as Lyme, Heartworm (actually a preventive medicine), Rabies
(most places), and so on.
You should keep your puppy away from all strange dogs. If you know
that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying
disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize. The same holds
true for people. Ask them to wash their hands before they play with
your puppy. It can't hurt and it could save you a great deal of grief.
As your puppy gets its shots, you can slowly add more and more
exposure to its life. But keep in mind this is an infant and needs
gentle care!
Worms can present a serious problem to puppy health. There is no good
way to prevent puppies from having worms, for a variety of reasons.
You should take your puppy in regularly for worm-testing. Worms can
interfere with the puppy's growth if left unchecked. Since it is very
common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the
dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked
regularly when young.
_________________________________________________________________
Teething
Around 4 to 5 months of age, puppies will start to get their permanent
teeth. There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and
control the chewing.
* Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself)
ice cubes and give them to the puppy.
* Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it
(rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on.
* Soften the kibble a bit with water.
* Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.
Puppies lose their teeth in a distinct pattern: first the small front
teeth come out. Then the premolars just behind the canines. Then the
molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those
erupting as well). Finally the canine teeth come out. Sometimes the
adult canines erupt before the baby canines have come all the way out.
During this time, some discomfort, including bleeding gums is to be
expected. Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of
time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions
above). You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy
loses, as puppies typically swallow them.
_________________________________________________________________
Feeding Your Puppy
Premium pet food tends to have higher nutritional value. In
particular, foods such as Science Diet, Eukanuba, Nature's Recipe.
This means you can generally feed your dog a smaller amount of food.
Also, they tend to be highly digestible which means that there is less
waste to clean up in the yard. For these two reasons, many people feed
their pets premium foods over grocery store foods. But the decision is
yours and many healthy, happy dogs have been raised on plain Purina
Dog Chow.
FEEDING SCHEDULES
There are two methods you can use to feed your puppy: free feeding and
scheduled feeding. Free feeding is when dry food is left out all day
and the dog eats as it wishes. Scheduled feeding gives the dog food at
set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time,
such as a half hour. In most cases, you are best off feeding your
puppy on a schedule. This better controls elimination when trying to
housetrain. In addition, many dogs will overeat and become overweight
on a free-feed schedule. But for other dogs, such as dogs with gastric
problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be better for them.
If you are unsure, you may want to discuss your particular situation
with your vet.
DOG FOOD FORMULATIONS
Read your labels, know your dog food products. There are different
kinds of dog food out there. Some are formulated very precisely for
different periods in a dog's life, and what is appropriate at one
stage is not appropriate at another. Others are generically formulated
and are supposed to be OK for any dog under any conditions. This means
that they are formulated up to the growing puppy level. There is
nothing wrong with either approach, unless the generically formulated
dog food comes out with a "puppy food" version. These are packed even
higher with extra nutrition, etc, than the puppy really needs, since
the original formulation was already sufficient for the puppy.
If you are using the latter type of puppy food, many veterinarians and
breeders (particularly of larger breeds) recommend that you NOT feed
it for the first year as is recommended on the bags of food. They
recommend that you feed puppy food ONLY for the first two months that
you have the puppy at home and then switch to adult food. A good "rule
of thumb" is to switch to adult food when the puppy has attained 90%
of its growth (exactly when this is reached varies by breed and size).
The nutritional formulation (especially the extra protein and calcium)
can actually cause problems in puppy development. The problem tends to
be with growth of bones vs. growth of tendons, ligaments, and muscle.
The growth rates are not the same and so the connections are strained
and if the dog jumps wrong or is playing too hard, the connections can
be torn. This typically happens in the front shoulder and requires
surgery and several months of confinement to repair. The added calcium
in puppy food may deposit on puppies' bones causing limping.
This is not a problem with the more closely formulated foods that have
adult foods that are specifically labelled as unsuitable for puppies
or lactating bitches.
_________________________________________________________________
Housetraining
The idea is to take advantage of a rule of dog behavior: a dog will
not generally eliminate where it sleeps. Exceptions to this rule
are:
* Dogs that are in crates that are too large (so the dog can
eliminate at one end and sleep at the other end).
* Dogs that have lived in small cages in pet stores during critical
phases of development and have had to learn to eliminate in the
cage.
* Dogs that have blankets or other soft, absorbent items in the
crate with them.
* Dogs that are left for too long in the crate and cannot hold it
any longer.
If the crate is too big (because you got an adult size one), you can
partition the crate off with pegboard wired to the sides to make the
crate the correct size, and move it back as your puppy grows. RC
Steele also sells crate dividers.
To house train a dog using a crate, establish a schedule where the dog
is either outside or in its crate when it feels the need to eliminate.
Using a mild correction when the dog eliminates inside and exuberant,
wild praise when the dog eliminates outside will eventually teach the
dog that it is better to go outside than in. Some owners correct more
severely inside, but this is extremely detrimental to the character of
puppies. To make the dog notice the difference between eliminating
inside and outside, you must praise more outside rather than
correcting more inside.
The crate is crucial because the dog will "hold it" while in the
crate, so it is likely to have to eliminate when it is taken out.
Since you know when you dog has to eliminate, you take it out and it
eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately. Doing this
consistently is ideal reinforcement for the behavior of going out to
eliminate. In addition, the dog is always supervised in the house, so
the dog is always corrected for eliminating indoors. This strengthens
the inhibition against eliminating inside.
In general, consistency is MUCH more important than severe corrections
when training a dog. Before a dog understands what you want, severe
corrections are not useful and can be quite DETRIMENTAL. Crating
allows the owner to have total control over the dog in order to
achieve consistency. Hopefully, this will prevent the need (and the
desire) to use more severe corrections.
Housetraining is relatively simple with puppies. The most important
thing to understand is that it takes time. Young puppies cannot wait
to go to the bathroom. When they have to go, they have to go NOW.
Therefore, until they are about four months old, you can only
encourage good behavior and try to prevent bad behavior. This is
accomplished by the following regime.
* First rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
immediately upon waking up.
* Second rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom
immediately after eating.
With these two rules goes the indisputable fact that until a puppy is
housetrained, you MUST confine them or watch them to prevent
accidents.
This means that the puppy should have a place to sleep where it cannot
get out. Understand that a puppy cannot go all night without
eliminating, so when it cries in the night, you must get up and take
it out and wait until it goes. Then enthusiastically praise it and put
it back to bed. In the morning, take it out again and let it do its
stuff and praise it. After it is fed and after it wakes up at any
point, take it out to eliminate.
Make it aware that this is not play time, but understand that puppies
get pretty excited about things like grass and snails and leaves and
forget what they came outside to do! Use the same spot each time if
you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do,
especially after 12 weeks of age.
To make life easier for you later on, use a key phrase just when the
puppy starts to eliminate. Try "hurry up," "do it," or some similar
phrase (pick one and use it). The puppy will begin to eliminate on
command, and this can be especially useful later, such as making sure
the dog eliminates before a car ride or a walk in the park.
Don't let the puppy loose in the house unless it has just gone
outside, and/or you are watching it extremely closely for signs that
it has to go. The key to housetraining is preventing accidents. If no
accidents occur (ha!), then the dog never learns it has an option
other than going outside.
For an idea of what this can involve, here is a hypothetical
situation, assuming that you work and it takes you about 1/2 hour to
get home from work:
* 03:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
* 07:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom
* 07:15 Feed dog in crate, leave dog in crate
* 08:00 Let dog out, go to bathroom, return to crate
* 08:15 Owner goes to work
* 11:30 Owner returns, lets dog out
* 11:45 return dog to crate, owner returns to work
* 17:00 Owner returns, lets dog out, go to bathroom, play
* 19:00 Feed dog in crate, leave in crate
* 19:45 Let dog out, go to bathroom, play
* 23:00 Let dog out, put dog in crate, go to bed.
For a comprehensive discussion on housetraining dogs, see
Evans, Job Michael. The Evan's Guide for Housetraining Your Dog.
ISBN: 0-87605-542-0.
Evans was a monk at New Skete for some years. He discusses all
aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many constructive
solutions for all kinds of specific problems.
Benjamin's Mother Knows Best discusses paper training in more detail
than is covered here.
_________________________________________________________________
Preliminary Training
It is essential for every dog, no matter how big, or small, or whether
you want to show, or work, or just play with, to have basic obedience
training. If you want to go beyond the basics, that's great. But at
least do the basics. One way to think of it is that without basic
obedience, you and the dog don't speak the same language so how can
you communicate? But with basic obedience, you can tell the dog what
you want it to do and it will understand you and do it. Another way to
think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't jump
on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors --
because it knows what you expect of it.
OBEDIENCE CLASSES
Find a good class and attend it. Many places have puppy kindergarten
classes; this also helps socialize your puppy. Do 10 minute training
sessions every day. And if you like it, keep going. You'd be amazed at
all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog learn
the basics! Training is fun and simple if approached that way. Enjoy
it!
AROUND THE HOUSE
Puppies can be started far earlier than many people believe. In fact,
waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY
late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems. Start right away
with basic behavior: use simple, sharp "no's" to discourage chewing
hands or fingers, jumping on people, and many other behaviors that are
cute in puppies but annoying when full grown. Don't be severe about
it, and praise the puppy *immediately* when it stops. Tie the puppy
down in sight of people eating dinner to prevent begging and nosing
for food (if you put it in another room, it will feel ostracized and
begin to cry). If your puppy bites and scratches you when playing,
give it a toy instead. Give a good, loud *yelp* or *ouch* when the
puppy bites you. This is how the other puppies in the litter let each
other know when they have crossed the line, and it is a good way to
get the puppy's attention and let it know that biting is not
acceptable.
The other side of the coin is immediate praise when your puppy stops
after a "no". You may feel like this is engaging in wild mood swings
(and you may well get odd looks from other people); that's all right.
You're making your wishes crystal clear to the puppy. It also needs
positive as well as negative reinforcement: how would you respond if
people only ever yelled at you when you did something wrong?
Introduce things in a fun way without "corrections" just to lay a
foundation for formal training later on. Formal training, demanding
or exact, is not appropriate at this stage. Instead, concentrate on
general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will
be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things,
such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not
making it heel!). In sum, lay a good foundation for its future
development and behavior.
_________________________________________________________________
Your New Puppy FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore, tit...@io.com
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/medical-info.01.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
CANINE MEDICAL INFORMATION, PART I
Table of Contents
* Prologue
* Anal Sacs
* Anesthetics
+ Why is anesthesia used for OFA X-rays?
+ How dangerous is anesthesia?
+ What can I do to improve the odds?
* Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia (AIHA)
* Breathing Disorders
* Bloody Stools
* Brucellosis
* Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
* Chrondrodysplasia (CHD or Chd).
* Distemper
* Epilepsy
* Eye Problems
+ CEA
+ PRA
+ GPRA
+ Glaucoma
+ Cataracts
+ Dealing with Blindness
* Gastric Dilation and Bloat
* Giardia
* Heartworms
_________________________________________________________________
Prologue
Much of the information found in this article is summarized from
Carlson & Giffin. I would like to thank them for their informative and
accessible information. Any mistakes made in the summaries are my
responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's. I believe that I am within
copyright laws by using summarizations (no direct quoting, except for
the toxic plants section), my own organization of the material, and
precise acknowledgement where relevant. -Cindy Tittle Moore
An excellent resource that details all aspects of health issues for
dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:
Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
Veterinary Handbook (Revised and Expanded). Howell Book House,
Macmillan Publishing Company, 866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA
(1992, 2nd ed). ISBN: 0-87605-537-4 (hardcover).
This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A must have
home veterinarian handbook.
_________________________________________________________________
Anal Sacs
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
Normally, anal sacs are emptied when the dog defecates. Some dogs with
overactive anal glands may require occasional help. Your vet can
demonstrate the procedure.
A common indication of trouble with anal sacs is "scooting" (dragging
the rear on the ground).
Impaction: occurs when the anal sacs fail to empty properly. This is
more common in smaller breeds. Squeezing the sacs yourself as needed
will control the problem.
Infection: complicates impaction. There is blood or pus in the
secretions, and the dog may scoot (drag its rear on the ground). It
may be painful. Check with your vet for an antibiotic you can apply
after you empty the sacs.
Abscess: Signs of anal infection, with a swelling at the site of the
gland. It goes from initially red to a deep purple. You will have to
have it lanced and cleaned by the vet.
Dogs whose anal sacs become repeatedly infected and/or abscessed will
need to have the glands removed. Surgery is uncomplicated, although
the dog will have poor bowel control for the next few days after
surgery. Try putting a pair of small boy's underpants, with the dog's
tail through the third opening, on the dog to contain accidents.
_________________________________________________________________
Anesthetics
Remember that this is not intended as complete information by any
means. Your best source for that is from your veterinarian. Don't be
afraid to ask questions.
WHY IS ANESTHESIA USED FOR OFA X-RAYS?
Most Xrays can be taken without any sort of sedation, but OFA Hip
X-Rays require an abnormal amount of stretching and twisting of the
legs to get the hips into a proper position. Most dogs will struggle
from the pain, and the resulting X-rays can end up blurred. While for
many cases this would be OK, OFA requires very sharp images. It is
possible (as has been mentioned here often) to get acceptable X-rays
without sedation, but it requires a lot of work and experience. If
your vet does not feel comfortable doing X-rays without sedation or
anesthesia you are probably better off getting an experienced vet to
do it.
HOW DANGEROUS IS ANESTHESIA?
While anesthesia is not without risks, it is most certainly not
guaranteed death for your dog. Your vet anesthetizes dozens of animals
a week without losing them, and your pet should be no exception. There
are a number of different anesthetics available, each with their own
benifits and risks. Halothane is probably the most commonly used. It
is a good general purpose anesthesia which is simple to control. A
drawback is that it takes animals up to an hour to completely wake up
from it and they usually behave sedated for up to another 12 hours.
Metophane is less common. It allows very deep levels of sedation for
painful surgeries such as bone surgery or for very large dogs. It also
has a long recovery time. If your vet uses either of these anesthetics
it is a good idea to schedule the procedure early in the day so that
your dog can be kept under observation for a longer period of time.
(Most vets do this anyway if at all possible). Finally there is
Isofluorane. This is a quick acting anesthetic which makes it a little
more difficult to monitor, but also causes the least trauma. It is
also much more expensive, and may not be offered by every vet. It is
best used for shorter or nonintrusive procedures such as X-rays, teeth
cleanings and tattoos.
WHAT CAN I DO TO IMPROVE THE ODDS?
The greatest danger from anesthetics is improper processing of the
drug by the dogs metabolism. All these anesthetics are eliminated from
the blood stream through the liver and kidneys. Older dogs in
particular can have defects in these organs that can cause
complications under anesthesia. If you are concerned about this your
vet can do a preliminary blood panel to detect potential problems. If
your pet has a heart murmur or a respiratory problem make sure your
vet is aware of it. These are not neccessary problems during
anesthesia, but will allow your vet to make an informed decision
should a problem arise. You should also ask your vet if sie knows of
any problems peculiar to your breed. Sighthounds in particular are
more sensitive to anesthetic and require lower levels to achieve the
same effect. Make sure that you keep a complete medical history of
your dog and that you take a copy of it with you whenever you change
vets.
_________________________________________________________________
Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia (AIHA)
This disease is only partially understood at this time.
Symptoms include:
* pale gums, possibly yellow in severe cases
* yellow feces (from bile pigments)
* red or orange-brown urine (but may look normal)
Procedures to reverse this condition include various chemotherapies,
steroids, cyclosporin, and blood transfusions. However, the only
"tried and tested" treatment is corticosteroid therapy. Other
cytotoxic drugs, like cyclosporin, cyclophosphamide, azathioprine and
danazol are recommended by various people, generally because somebody
else recommended them somewhere else. Their actual benefit seems
uncertain. The general consensus is that cyclophosphamide is the best
of these drugs to use.
Blood transfusions are the topic of much controversy. One school of
thought is that the animal is likely to hemolyse the transfusion, so
blood should be tranfused only in lifethreatening situations. The
other school argues that transfusions have never been proven to be
dangerous in this disease (and goes on to assume that they are
therefore safe).
There are two types of AHA: primary, where the system destroys its own
red blood cells for no apparent reason, and secondary, where the red
cell membrane is changed (perhaps by a virus or parasite) and is then
destroyed as abnormal. Prognosis for secondary AHA is much better and
depends on how well the underlying cause can be treated. The prognosis
for primary AHA is much worse, with only 50% of the animals living
beyond 12 months.
_________________________________________________________________
Breathing Disorders
Dogs that breath noisily may have a serious health problem. For
example, some animals have an elongated palate, which prevents them
from breathing properly. The animal can also have a hard time drinking
and eating. This also can affect the heart since it has to work extra
hard to breath.
If your dog has this problem check with your vet. There is an
operation that can correct the problem of elongated palates. In any
case, dogs should not be constantly panting and breathing noisily, so
a vet check is in order.
In general, breathing anomalies should be investigated: noisiness,
wheezing, excessive panting, excessive coughing.
_________________________________________________________________
Bloody Stools
Blood in the stool can appear in several ways, each indicating a
different problem. Black stools mean bleeding high up in the digestive
tract, most likely a bleeding stomach ulcer. Reddish stools indicate
blood further down the pipe, after the digestive juices have been
neutralized somewhat. This can be anything from ulcers in the small
intestine to ulcerative colitis. Red blotches/streaks on the surface
of the stools (with normal color otherwise) indicate bleeding in the
last segment of the large intestine or rectum, after the stool has
begun to solidify (the function of the large intestine is to
neutralize digestive juices and absorb liquid). This can be ulcerative
colitis (or some other inflammatory bowel disease) or bleeding
hemorrhoids. Each of these problems can be very serious, and in some
cases life-threatening (with the exception of hemorrhoids).
Coloring (natural or artificial) in food can also directly color the
stool so you can't be sure of anything without a chemical analysis. A
sudden diet change/addition can also affect stool color.
Get a sample to the vet.
_________________________________________________________________
Brucellosis
Brucellosis is one of the few venereal diseases among dogs. It is
associated with testicular atrophy. It causes sterilization (sometime
obvious, sometimes not) in the male, embryonic reabsorption, abortion,
weak pups that die soon after birth and eventual sterility in females.
Males are contagious for months through their semen, females are
contagious for several weeks after the failed pregnancy.
*Brucellosis may be passed to humans.* It can cause suppressed
immune systems and sterility in humans.
Diagnosis can be quickly made, although animals tested less than three
weeks after exposure will show negative. False positives are possible;
followup diagnosis with more reliable methods should follow any
initial positives.
Treatment for brucellosis is not generally very successful and often
very expensive. Extensive antibiotic therapy, evaluation and
additional testing will add up quickly, with no guarantee of success.
No vaccine is available.
Any animal with brucellosis should not be bred, and should be
eliminated from the kennel or other breeding stock before infecting
the entire colony. Animals entering the breeding area, male and
female, should be tested for brucellosis PRIOR TO breeding.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Parvovirus (CPV)
This is a recent disease, first noted in the late seventies. It is
highly contagious and puppies have the highest mortality. There is a
vaccine available, and you should make sure your dog is up on its
shots. In some areas where parvo is prevalent, you may need booster
shots every six months instead of every year.
Parvovirus comes in several forms:
(summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
* Diarrhea syndrome: Severe depression, loss of appetite, vomiting.
Extreme pain. High fever follows with profuse diarrhea. No other
disease comes close to matching the amount of diarrhea induced by
CPV.
* Cardiac syndrome: Affects the muscles of the heart, especially in
puppies. Puppies stop nursing, cry and gasp for breath. Death can
occur suddenly or after several days. Puppies that recover often
develop chronic congestive heart failure that may kill them
several months later.
Dogs may have either or both syndromes. Treatment is difficult,
requiring hospitalization; those who recover are immune. The quarters
of an infected dog should be thoroughly sterilized; a solution of 1:30
bleach and water is recommended. As with any use of bleach, make sure
you do not mix it with ammonia, which results in mustard gas and can
kill you and your dog. Be sure to rinse the bleach off thoroughly
after application.
In the US, there is a current upswing in Parvo infections. Make sure
your dog is up-to-date on its vaccinations. Don't let a too-young
puppy roam where possibly infected dogs have been (for example, in the
park). Contact with feces or un-vaccinated dogs is the primary source
of transmission. Some breeds seem to be especially sensitive to parvo,
such as Rottweilers.
_________________________________________________________________
Chrondrodysplasia
Chrondrodysplaysia was discovered around 1930-1940s. This disease is
neither "dwarfism" as it is commonly referred to nor is it dysplaysia
(in the true sense of the word). This debilitating disease is actually
a birth defect causing the dog's upper foreleg to become overly
massive, short, and twisted and appears in Malamute and related
breeds. Malamute breeders were appalled by this condition when it
appeared and immediately set out to eradicate it.
Steps were taken to locate these recessive genes. By breeding an
unknown dog to a known CHD, the pups were then rebred to CHD dogs and
percentages were calculated. Most Malamutes today have been CHD rated.
The percentage is the actual likelihood of CHD showing up in a
breeding. Malamute breeders tend to agree that 6.25% (one
great-great-great grandparent is a carrier) is the upper limit of
acceptablity in a CHD rating.
Puppies are CHD rated now by taking the CHD factors of both parents
and averaging them together. Example:
Dog 1.75%
Bitch 2.01%
---------------
(1.75 + 2.01)/2 =
puppies 1.88%
Needless to say, an non-CHD certified Mal or a Mal that is certified
above a 6.25% should not be bred, in order to contain the disease.
Non-CHD certified dogs can be CHD certified, but it is a very
expensive procedure.
CHD may be diagnosed with various tests that include blood tests and
x-rays.
The Complete Alaskan Malamute by Riddle and Seely covers this
disease fairly well.
_________________________________________________________________
Distemper
(summarized From Carlson & Giffin)
Distemper is the leading cause of infectious disease death in dogs,
most commonly in unvaccinated puppies 3-8 months of age. Among
infected dogs: half show little in the way of illness; many show mild
symptoms; and in a few the illness is severe or fatal. Malnourished
and ill-kept dogs tend to show more acute forms of the disease.
Secondary infections and complications with distemper are common.
Prognosis depends on how quickly the dog is diagnosed and treated, and
which form of the disease the dog has.
There are two stages. Symptoms in the first stage include fever, loss
of appetite, listlessness, and a watery discharge from the eyes and
nose. It may appear like a cold -- but dogs do not get colds the way
people do; a "cold" is therefore much more serious in a dog than in a
person. Within a few days the discharge will thicken: a primary
indication of distemper. Dry cough, pus blisters on the stomach,
diarrhea (and associated dehydration) may follow. At this point, the
dog may recover, or proceed on to the second stage which involves the
brain. Dogs with brain involvement do not usually survive.
_________________________________________________________________
Epilepsy
(from a post by Stu Farhnam)
Canine epilepsy is remarkably similar in both presentation and
treatment to epilepsy in humans. However, it is much more common among
dogs, with an approximate 10% rate (compared with 1% for humans).
Epilepsy may be due to a number of causes: injury, toxicity, disease,
heredity, etc. In cases where no apparent cause can be found, the
diagnosis is "idiopathic epilepsy", which essentially means "seizures
of unknown origin". Epilepsy is fairly common in dogs. Idiopathic
epilepsy is believed to have a genetic component which is not well
understood.
If the epilepsy has a specific determinable cause, it can often be
treated by removing the source. For example, a dog may have epilepsic
siezures when exposed to a specific toxin; eliminating that toxin will
remove the epilepsy. For idiopathic epilepsy and permanent epilepsy
(eg due to a head-injury), treatment consists of one or more
anticonvulsant drugs. Dosage and combination are usually arrived at
empirically. That is, you and your vet will experiment with different
drugs at different doses in an attempt to find the best treatment for
your dog. Common anticonvulsants include primadone, phenobarbitol,
valium, and others.
The vast majority of cases of canine epilepsy yield to treatment.
While most of the drugs have long term side effects (e.g. liver
toxicity), they allow epileptic dogs to live near normal lives.
Siezures can appear in many forms, from undistractible "spaciness" to
the more commonly thought of spasmodic movements, loss of bladder and
bowel control, etc. Seizures pose little direct threat to the dog when
they occur singly and are of short duration (seconds - a few minutes).
The most common problem associated with a seizure is that the dog
injures itself during the period of loss of motor control.
Sometimes, however, the seizures occur in groups (clusters) or do not
end quickly (so-called "status epilepticus"). In these cases the
physical stress on the dog can be enormous and lead to secondary
problems.
_________________________________________________________________
Eye Problems
CEA
CEA (Collie Eye Anomaly) is the most common form of eye problem found
in the collie, both rough and smooth variety. It is also found in the
border collie, shetland sheepdog, and bearded collie. It is believed
to by controlled by a genetic cluster, or large group of genes, and
thus, it is hard to control by breeding, and ranges in severity.
PRA
PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is common in MANY breeds of dogs
(including mixed breeds), and is not isolated to the collie like the
CEA tends to be.
Generalized PRA affects the entire retina. Most dogs with GPRA become
night blind at three and are usually totally blind by five.
Generalized PRA has been detected as early as six weeks in puppies,
and these puppies are usually blind by six to eight months. An
electroretinography can be used to detect the early signs of PRA.
Animals to be tested in this manner are anesthetized while lenses are
placed on the eyes to record the retina's reaction to light. (Like
wearing contacts.)
ALL dogs affected with PRA eventually go blind.
Current research is beginning to isolate the genetic markers for this
disease. At present, there is a genetic test to identify carrier and
affected dogs in the Irish Setter breed. Work is underway for one for
the Labrador Retriever. This disease is thought to be a simple
autosomal recessive gene. Thus two recessive genes are needed for a
dog to be affected. A single recessive gene masked by the healthy
dominant means the dog is a carrier. Therefore, an affected dog's
parents are carriers or also affected.
This disease manifests itself differently in different breeds. The
most common form of PRA in the collie is generalized PRA and it is
detectable at an early age (6wks and over). The form of PRA in Irish
Setters is also an early-onset. In Labrador Retrievers, on the other
hand, the age of onset is much later, typically four to six years of
age, making it much harder to find and isolate carriers in this breed.
NOTE: In October 1945 the Kennel Club of England added PRA to the list
of disqualifications from winning any award in the show ring.
CPRA
The other form, Central PRA, is uncommon and usually occurs between
three and five years old, but has been detected as early as three
weeks. The mode of transmission is not known. Animals with CPRA can
usually see moving objects because the peripheral vision is retained
longer, but often will collide with stationary objects. An
electroretinogram is not able to detect the CPRA. At present, this is
thought to be caused by a dietary deficiency, and is most commonly
seen in specific areas of Europe.
For more information on Canine Eye disease contact:
CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation) South Campus Courts C
Purdue University West Lafayette, IN 47906
Information on CEA, PRA and GPRA was compiled with the wealth of
information located in:
* Rubin, Lionel F. Inherited Eye Diseases in Purebred Dogs.
* Vanderlip, Sharon Lynn, DVM. The Collie: A Veterinary Reference
for the Professional Breeder.
* CERF pamphlets.
Please consult these books and others for more breed specific
information.
GLAUCOMA
This is a condition where the pressure of the fluid in the eye
increases until the sight is gone in that eye. If it strikes one eye,
the other eye is likely also to be affected.
Once the retina is damaged and the sight is gone the options are as
follows:
* Inject the eye with a fluid which kills the fluid producing cells
in the eye, hence no further increase in pressure and no pain.
This is not a guaranteed solution.
* Remove the eye and sew the lids shut. Probably the most practical.
* Remove the eye and replace it with a prosthetic (i.e., glass eye).
There are potential problems with infection of the eye socket.
CATARACTS
Cataracts are fairly common in older dogs and sometimes is a
complication of another condition (such as diabetes). Treatment can
involve removing the clouded portion of the lense. This usually
renders the dog unable to focus, but since sight is not a primary
sense for the dog, the procedure appears to give them usable vision.
[Need more info]
_________________________________________________________________
Dealing with Blindness
Dogs that become blind rarely have all that much trouble with it.
Unlike humans, sight is not a primary sense; dogs would be much more
upset at losing their sense of smell. Most people with a blind dog
find that dealing with blindness is not difficult nor traumatic for
the dog.
To avoid confusion, do not move your furniture around (except for any
piece that the dog does keep bumping into. Be sure the dog knows when
you are near so it is not startled. When you go out on walks,
establish habitual trails. Your dog will adjust quickly.
_________________________________________________________________
Gastric Dilation and Bloat
A condition more commonly seen in larger breeds. Gas in the stomach
causes it to swell. In some cases, the stomach rotates on its axis,
closing off both ends of it. Digestive processes continue unabated and
the stomach swells up. The cause of bloat is unknown.
Some forms of bloat are fatal untreated; survival depends on
understanding what is happening and getting the dog to the vet, the
earlier the better.
Terminology:
* The stomach is full of gas and begins to swell: gastric dilation.
* The stomach partially rotates on its axis: torsion.
* The stomach rotates 180 or more degrees: volvolus.
Some facts (from Carlson & Giffin):
* Dogs who bloat are almost always at least 2 years old.
* Two-thirds are male.
* Larger, deeper chested breeds are affected.
* They eat large amounts of dry kibble.
* They exercise vigorously after eating and tend to drink water in
large amounts after meals.
* They may have a history of digestive upsets.
* There may be a familial association with other dogs who bloat.
According to Carlson & Giffin, the symptoms are: excessive salivation
and drooling, extreme restlessness, attempts to vomit and defecate,
evidence of abdominal pain and abdominal distension. Abdominal
fullness, whining, pacing, getting up and lying down, stretching,
looking at the abdomen, anxiety.
History is important: in nearly all cases, there is a history of
overeating, eating fermented foods, drinking excessively after eating,
or taking vigorous exercise after a meal (within two or three hours).
If your dog is able to belch or vomit, it is more likely a gastric
upset. If it cannot, rush it to the vet or emergency care *now* for
emergency surgery.
If your dog is at risk for gastric bloat, you should discuss it with
your vet before a possible episode. Your vet may recommend (and
demonstrate) some things you can try to do as life-saving measures
while getting it to the vet.
Measures thought to reduce the risk of gastric torsion ("bloat") [From
the Bloat Panel, sponsored by the Morris Animal Foundations, published
in the August 1992 Irish Setter Club of America's Memo To Members.]
* Feed two or three times daily. Be sure someone is around to
observe after-feeding behavior for possible symptoms.
* Water should be available at all times except immediately after
feeding, especially if the dog seems to over-drink. Or mixing dry
kibble and water before eating to prevent later swelling up in the
abdomen.
* Vigorous exercise, excitement and stress should be avoided one
hour before and two hours after meals. Walking is alright and may
help stimulate normal gastrointestinal function.
* Any dietary changes should be introduced gradually over several
days.
There is another article about bloat in the Spring '92 issue of
Today's Breeder (published by Purina dog foods) (pp 8,9,15).
_________________________________________________________________
Giardia (prepared by Dr. James Coggins)
If your dog has been diagnosed with Giardia, it is infected with the
one-celled protozoan parasite Giardia lamblia. These flagellate
parasites are usually contracted by drinking contaminated water or
sometimes by eating contaminated feces. Giardiasis, the disease caused
by Giardia, can range from asymptomatic (no visible signs of distress)
to extremely acute where the dog is severely ill. Canine giardiasis
should be treated since it is potentially transmissible to humans and
other animals.
Giardiasis is a malabsorptive syndrome. The parasites adhere to the
lining of the small intestine where they interfere with absorption of
nutrients. Light cases of Giardia often go undetected and many dogs
"self cure" by expelling and developing an immunity to the parasite.
In heavier infections, Giardia can interfere with absorption of
certain types of nutrients, especially fats and certain vitamins. Fats
are not absorbed and result in excess mucus in the stools which are
very pungent and diarrhetic.
The parasites interfere with normal metabolism by forming a physical
barrier between the lumen of the intestine and the absorptive cells.
Excess mucus results from malabsorption of fats while excess water
results in the diarrhea. The intestinal lining is not usually injured
so stools should not contain blood. The parasites feed on partially
digested food in the lumen of the intestine. They do not compete
directly with the host for food. Their metabolism is primarily
anaerobic, meaning that they do not utilize oxygen in their
respiration. They lack cellular organelles concerned with aerobic
respiration such as mitochondria.
The active stage within the host is the trophozoite (feeding body);
this is the only pathological form. The transfer stage of the parasite
is the termed the cyst. Giardia forms cysts by extruding cellular food
particles and other vacuoles and secreting a resistant cyst membrane
around the cell. This highly resistant cyst is then passed from the
host in the feces. Trophozoites may be passed but quickly die. Cysts
that are passed into water can survive for an extended time, up to 1-2
months under proper conditions. Survival times on land are somewhat
less. A new host becomes infected by drinking fecally contaminated
water or eating the feces of an infected animal. While food-borne
transmission is rare, it has been documented for humans. Dogs may
become infected by drinking out of streams, lakes or ponds containing
Giardia cysts. Other sources of infection are wild animals that visit
the kennel area and deposit infected feces in an area accessible to
the dog. Scats of other dogs or wild animals are potential sources of
infection for domestic dogs. Giardia is potentially transmissible to
humans so caution is warranted.
Giardia can be difficult to detect even for professionals. It is too
small to be seen by the unaided eye. A high quality microscope is
needed for proper diagnosis; phase contrast microscopy is helpful. A
definitive negative diagnosis should include stools collected on
multiple days since cyst production tends to be cyclic with millions
produced one day and few the following day. The cyst is the diagnostic
stage of Giardia. Cysts tend to be approximately 9-15 micrometers in
length and 4-5 um in width. Cysts are identified by size, the presence
of four nuclei, axostyles and claw-hammer shaped median bodies.
The current drug of choice is metronidazole, known by the trade name
FLAGYL. Although highly effective it is a known carcinogen and mutagen
in mice. Quinacrine (ATABRINE) can also be used but is not as
effective. Treatment is usually one tablet per day for 7-10 days,
depending on the weight of the dog. Recovery is usually uneventful but
a dog may become reinfected after treatment. Thus, it is important to
try to isolate and eliminate the source of infection.
_________________________________________________________________
Heartworms
Indications may not appear until a full year has passed since
infection. Because of this, the disease is often mistaken for another
problem. The most persistant sign is a soft, deep cough. After
exercise, the cough may be so severe that that the dog faints. Weight
loss, discharge of bloody sputum, listlessness, and weakness are also
common (from Carlson & Giffin).
The rest of the information on heartworms was adapted from a very
informative post by Kristin Thommes who posted it March 5, 1994.
THE HEARTWORM LIFECYCLE
Start with an infected dog. This dog has adult heartworms living in
its pulmonary arteries (they crawl into the heart after the dog dies).
Female worms mate with male worms and produce microfilaria (first
stage larva, L1, or a "baby" heartworm). The microfilaria enter the
circulation of the dog. When this infected dog with circulating
microfilaria is bitten by a mosquito, the mosquito will ingest 1 or 2
microfilariae. If the mosquito ingests more larvae than this, it will
die!
In the mosquito, the microfilariae (L1) will molt twice, to the L2 and
then the L3 stage. At the L3 stage, the larvae migrate to the
mosquito's mouthparts. Then when the mosquito bites a dog, the larvae
are deposited ON the dog's skin and then crawl into the bite wound
left by the feeding mosquito. If a mosquito with the L1 or L2 larval
forms bites a dog, they will NOT be transmitting heartworms to the
dog. Likewise, if the L1 forms are not removed from the dog's
circulation by a biting mosquito, they will die off. The L1 stage does
NOT "mature" into adult worms in the dog. So, the L3 larvae that crawl
into a dog bitten by a mosquito will develop in the dog's subcutaneous
tissues to L4 and finally L5 life stages. These then enter the venous
system and enter the heart. They travel to the pulmonary arteries and
become full-fledged adult worms, ready to reproduce.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF HEARTWORM TESTING:
When a dog is tested for heartworms, a sample of blood is drawn. The
blood cells are lysed and the remaining sample is examined
microscopically for the presence of microfilariae. (This is the
Knott's test or Filter test, depending on how it's done). So, if no
microfilariae are seen, the dog is diagnosed as being heartworm
negative and you can restart medication. Because of the development
that the larvae must go through prior to becoming adult worms and
reproducing, it takes, on average, 6 MONTHS from the time a healthy
dog is bitten and infected until the dog has circulating
microfilariae. This means that a heartworm test done less than 6
months since a dog was bitten and infected will be *negative.* Dogs
that have been taking Heartgard present another problem in the
detection of heartworms. Heartgard will cause adult female worms
already present in the dog to become sterile, so the females will not
produce any microfilaria. Heartgard will not kill any adult worms. The
adult worms cause heart problems with dogs who have heartworms, NOT
the microfilariae. It is the adult worms that we are really attempting
to protect the dog from when we use preventative medication.
So if a dog is on Heartgard and is tested for heartworms using the
Knott's test, chances are the dog will test negative even if there are
adult worms present. There is a different, more expensive test for
dogs who may have sterile worms. It uses a blood sample to test for
antigens produced by the adult heartworms. If the dog has heartworm
antigen, it has a greater than 99% chance of having heartworms. This
test should be used on any dogs that are on Heartgard since they will
not have microfilariae in their bloodstream. Likewise, if there are
only low numbers of circulating microfilariae, the Antigen test will
give a positive result where the direct Knotts (Filter) test may be
negative. Just like the standard Knotts test, the Antigen test will be
negative if the dog was infected less than 6 months ago.
It is therefore very important for those dogs on the monthly
medication to be tested with the Antigen test rather than the Knotts!
QUESTIONS
Can another dog can get heartworm by coming in contact with an
infected dog's blood? (transfusion, bite)
No. If a dog was infected and had circulating microfilaria, and
these microfilariae were transplanted into a healthy dog via a
transfusion, the healthy dog would NOT get adult heartworms because
the lifecycle could not be completed within the body of the dog. A
mosquito is needed for development from the L1 to the L3 stage.
Could a pregnant bitch with heartworms give them to her own puppies?
No, for the same reason as above, you need the mosquito for the
intermediate stages between microfilarae and adult worms. While the
placental barrier will keep the microfilarae out, even if this
barrier broke down (which can happen), the pups will not be
infested.
How do those medications work anyway?
There are basically 2 types of medication available that will help
to prevent adult heartworm formation in dogs that are negative. One
type is the daily medication Diethlycarbamazine (DEC). It works by
killing any larvae that have crawled into the dog from the mosquito
within approximately the past 36 hours. DEC kills L3 larvae. Once
they molt into L4's, DEC will not kill them and these larvae may
develop into adult worms.
PREVENTIVE MEDICATIONS
The monthly medications are Heartgard and Interceptor. Heartgard is
Ivermectin and Interceptor is Milbemycin Oxime. These medications work
by killing any larvae that have entered the dog up to 45 days ago.
They kill L3s, 4s, and 5s. These drugs are given monthly (30 days) for
the convenience of giving on the same day each month and also to give
you a safety margin. If you forget to give your dog his/her heartworm
medication, you have about 15 days to remember to give it and the dog
will still be protected. With the daily medication, forgetting for
more than a day may result in your dog becoming infected.
Most common ways that a dog will contract heartworms while on
medication include not being given medication on a regular basis (e.g.
completely missed dosages); traveling from a winter environment to a
summer environment like Florida without giving the dog heartworm
medication; not WEIGHING the dog while on the medication: the dog
outgrows its dosage; and the dog vomiting or having severe diarrhea
after being given its medication. What should you do if you forget
your dog's medication? *IF* the dog is on daily medication, give the
dog a monthly tablet within 45 days of the missed dose. Depending on
what you feel comfortable with, you can then restart the dog on the
daily medication, or continue giving the medication once a month. *IF*
your dog is on monthly medication, give the medication anytime you
remember, even if more than 45 days has passed. Giving heartgard to a
dog with heartworms will not hurt the dog, and until 6 months has
passed the dog will appear to be negative anyway. However, you should
NEVER give daily medication to dogs who may have circulating
microfilariae. The daily medication can cause an anaphylactic reaction
if given to a dog with microfilariae present. Giving monthly
medication will prevent the dog from acquiring a heavy worm load by
being bitten by multiple infected mosquitoes. Just be certain to have
the dog tested 6 months after the missed dose to be sure that the dog
did not acquire heartworms.
TREATMENT OF HEARTWORM DISEASE
Treatment for heartworms is difficult on the dog and prevention is
easy. If your dog tests positive for heartworms and you decide to
treat it, here is what will happen: Your vet will want to take a blood
sample to begin with to check the dog's liver function. The treatment
that kills the adult worms uses a drug called Caparsalate. This drug
is given twice a day for 2 days while the dog is in the hospital. The
dog must be kept quiet (caged) for 4 weeks after the adult worms have
been killed. It takes 7 to 17 days from the time of treatment for the
adult worms to die. Within this time, dead worms will fragment and
travel to the dog's lungs. If dead worms are numerous, some of the
blood vessels to the lungs will become blocked, and this is
inevitable. However, if the dog is kept quiet and only allowed to move
around enough to go outside, the blockage of pulmonary vessels may
remain subclinical. If the dog is allowed to run around, the heart
rate increases and many dead worm fragments will travel to the lungs
at the same time. This is what you want to avoid. About 4 weeks after
Caparsalate has been given, the dog will be given a high dose of
ivermectin to kill the remaining microfilaria that are circulating.
Although this is a high dose of ivermectin, it is below the lowest
dose known to cause mild, self-limiting toxic side effects in Collies.
Obviously, after being treated, dogs should be kept on heartworm
preventative!
SUMMARY OF MEDICATION
Heartworm preventives include
* Interceptor
+ Prevents hookworm infestations as well as heartworms.
+ Safe for Collies. Monthly.
* Ivermectin
+ Excellent control of hookworms and roundworms as well as
heartworms.
+ Has caused seizures in higher doses to Collies. Monthly.
* Filarbits Plus
+ Contraindicated if microfilariae are already present in
blood.
+ Controls hook, round, and whip worms to some extent. Can be
used in puppies 8 weeks or older. Daily.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Medical Information, Part I FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/tittle/pets/dog-faqs/service.html
Last-modified: 23 Aug 1995
=======
There are nearly 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
==========
SERVICE DOGS
Table of Contents
* Dogs for the Blind
* Hearing and Signal Dogs
* Canine Companions for Independence
* Asistance Dog International (ADI)
* Therapy Dogs
* More Information
Please note that while legally speaking, therapy dogs are NOT "service
dogs" and NOT entitled to the same benefits that service dogs are
(entrance to any public building or transportation), I have included
them in this document as a related function for dogs. As you read
this, please keep in mind that according to the American Disabilities
Act (federal) any dog assisting a person with a disability is
considered a service dog (exclusive of therapy dogs). Service dogs are
entitled to freely access buildings and transportation (buses, trains,
planes). Proof or certification is not required although many
organizations that train service dogs give their handlers some sort of
ID for their dog.
_________________________________________________________________
Dogs for the Blind
My thanks to Rusty Wright for the information on Guide Dogs. Thanks
also to Carla Campbell, who contributed substantial additional
information.
Dogs can be trained to guide blind people so that they are able to
negotiate the world otherwise unassisted. They serve as, quite
literally, the eyes for their owner. It is illegal anywhere in the US,
or Canada, or Britain, and most other countries, to deny a blind
person guided by a dog access to any public place. This includes
stores, restaurants, banks, and anywhere else that dogs might be
otherwise prohibited. The Americans with Disabilities Act in the US is
quite clear on this point. The training for such dogs is quite
demanding, as the dog must be able to navigate sidewalks, streets,
stairs -- avoiding all obstacles, including overhead ones that may
injure its owner (but not itself). They must be able to ignore all
distractions while doing their work.
Most commonly referred to as "Seeing Eye Dogs" or "Guide Dogs," there
are in reality many organizations in the US that provide guide dogs
for blind people. However, while Guide Dogs for the Blind is on the
west coast (along with Guide Dogs of the Desert and Guide Dogs of
America, both in southern California, and Eye Dog Foundation in
Arizona) and The Seeing Eye (among many others) is on the east, nearly
all 15 schools in the United States serve people nationwide. In fact,
people can obtain a dog from any of the schools, save five (which
serve only their own geographical regions), and many dogs from The
Seeing Eye, Leader Dogs, Guiding Eyes and the other schools work on
the west coast, while many dogs from Guide Dogs for the Blind work all
around the country. Geographical location is only one factor in
selecting a guide dog training school to attend, and rarely is it the
most important.
This is not the case in all countries with multiple guide dog training
facilities. In the U.K., for example, the Guide Dogs for the Blind
Association (GDBA) operates several regional centers, and sends its
applicants to the center nearest their home for training. All these
regional centers are "branches" or "campuses" of the GDBA, unlike the
diverse American dog guide schools, which are completely independent
from one another. Unlike American schools, the GDBA's regional
training centers are centrally controlled, operating under the same
set of policies, drawing from the same budget and using the same
training methods. In the United States and Canada, no school yet has
any "branches" or presence outside their central facility. Guide Dogs
for the Blind may soon be the first US guide dog training program to
operate two facilities under the same administration, when its new
"campus" is opened in Oregon sometime in the 1990's.
The breeds used are yellow and black Labrador Retrievers and German
Shepherd Dogs, usually. Others can be used, such as Golden Retrievers,
but usually the centers prefer to use dogs with a high recognition
potential and some breeds simply seem to be better at being trained
for guide service.
The breeds most commonly used as dog guides are Labrador Retrievers,
Golden Retrievers and German Shepherd Dogs. Approximately 60-70% of
all working guides in the U.S. are Labradors. (Yellow, black and
chocolate labs are all used, though most Labradors used as guide dogs
are yellow or black labs and some schools specifically do not use
chocolates.) Other breeds, such as Boxers, Flat and Curly Coated
Retrievers, Border Collies, Huskies, Doberman Pinchers, Rhodesian
Ridgebacks, Australian Shepherds, German Short-Haired Pointers,
Dalmatians, and even Standard Poodles are occasionally used by some
programs. Flat-coated Retrievers, in particular, appear to be gaining
popularity with guide dog training establishments. Crosses of many of
these breeds are also used, by some schools, with Lab-Golden, Lab-GSD
and GSD-Huskie crosses most common. (In Britain and Australia,
Labrador/Golden and Labrador-Poodle crosses ("Labradoodles") are
frequently used as guides, and far more crosses are used, in general,
than by the U.S. schools.)
Some centers have their own breeding programs, such as Guide Dogs;
others use local breeders. The trend does seem to be toward
proprietary breeding programs, although many of the stock, if not used
as guide dogs will also compete in the more usual kennel club events.
For example, CH Lobuff's Bare Necessities (black Labrador Retriever)
was bred by the Guide Dog Foundation for the blind and is producing
puppies for both the ring and the foundation.
Labs, Goldens and Shepherds are most popular as guides due to their
temperament, intelligence, versatility, size and availability. Dogs
trained as guide dogs must be intelligent, willing workers, large
enough to comfortably guide in harness and small enough to be easily
controlled and fit comfortably under restaurant tables and on buses
and other forms of public transit. The three common breeds used for
this work were selected because a large number of individuals of these
breeds met the requirements necessary for a good guide dog and these
breeds could most easily be matched with the widest range of blind
people and their needs in a guide. Additionally, these three breeds
are popular in the United States and obtaining them for training or
supplementing breeding stock has proved easier than obtaining less
common, but perhaps equally suitable breeds.
Families who raise the puppies simply train them in basic dog
obedience, and stress lots of socialization and good manners. For
example, if you go to a dog show, you are likely to see several such
puppies there, learning to take it all in stride. The dogs go back for
their formal training when they're about 1.5 years old, although they
can go back as young as 1 year old.
Children are usually preferred as puppy raisers, hence many coordinate
with 4-H programs. Interestingly enough, the puppies raised by kids
are more likely to make it through the formal guide dog training. The
difference is not drastic, but is "significant." Volunteer puppy
raisers are encouraged to expose their charges to as many new
experiences as possible, observing the pups' reactions and providing
positive reassurance and security for the puppies as they experience
crowds, cars, strange buildings, other animals and much more. They
also teach the dogs some of the basic obedience commands such as "sit"
and "down," but the dogs' instructors will insure that the dogs know
these and other obedience commands in addition to instructing them in
guide work, itself.
When dogs go back for their training they're carefully screened for
any hip abnormalities and other health problems. If the hips aren't
very good they're immediately "retired." The formal training takes
about 6 months.
Dogs can fail for a variety of reasons. As you might guess, some dogs
don't transition well from living in a puppy raiser's home to living
in the kennels and others just get stressed out and fail. The puppy
raiser gets the option of keeping a dog that failed. If the puppy
raiser can't keep the dog they can place it in a home. Waiting lists
for such dogs are usually several years long!
Before a guide dog is given to a blind person the blind person must
usually attend training at center. This training is several weeks long
and during this time the blind person will live on site. People coming
back to get a replacement dog usually take a "refresher" class.
A few smaller programs conduct "in home" training, in which an
instructor brings a trained dog to the student and trains the team in
their own home area. This is the most rapidly growing area of dog
guide training, with three new home training programs started since
1990. Most of these programs are small 1-2 trainer operations and do
not ever plan to serve as many people as the residential programs can.
All home training programs currently limit their service to their own
region of the country, serving only those applicants in their own and
neighboring states.
There are pros and cons to both types of training, and they serve
people with different needs and expectations. The majority of guide
dog handlers still choose to attend class at a residential training
facility to receive and train with their dogs.
There are, in addition to residential training schools and home
training programs, a few private trainers of dog guides and a few
blind people who train their own guides.
There are 15 established programs in the US which train dog guides for
the blind (as well as several in Canada and in other countries around
the world, of course.) Of these, Fidelco, Southeastern, two new
schools in New York state, (Upstate Guide Dog association and Freedom
Guide Dogs), and a very recently established program in Oregon
(Northwest Guiding Eyes) serve only people from their own "region."
The rest serve anyone from the United States or abroad.
REFERENCES
Pfaffenberger, Clarence J. The new knowledge of dog behavior.
Foreword by J. P. Scott. Consultant on genetics: Benson E. Ginsburg.
New York, Howell Book House, 1963.
Gives an excellent history of how Guide Dogs was started, and has
other interesting information.
Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth. Includes a history of the organization.
Harrington, Paula. Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.
_________________________________________________________________
Hearing and Signal Dogs
Other dogs are trained to assist deaf people. They alert their owner
to a variety of sounds, usually by coming up to the person and going
back to the source of the sound. They will signal on door bell and
knocking, phones, smoke alarms, crying babies and much more. In the
US, they enjoy the same rights of access as guide dogs and are to be
permitted anywhere, although since they are not as widely recognized,
their owners often have to display an identification card.
There are several organizations that train hearing dogs; CCI (below)
is one of them. Others (I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
addresses except where noted):
* American Humane Association, 5351 S. Roslyn Street, Englewood,
Colorado 80111. (303-779-1400.
* Audio Dogs, 27 Crescent Street, Brooklyn, New York 11208.
212-827-2792.
* Dogs for the Deaf, Applegate Behavior Station, 13260 Highway 238,
Jacksonville, Oregon 97530. 503-899-7177.
* Guide Dog Foundation, 371 Jericho Turnpike, Smithtown, New York
11787. 516-265-2121.
* Hearing Dog, Inc., Agnes McGrath, Director; 5901 E. 89 Ave.,
Henderson, Colorado 80640. 303-287-3277 (voice/tty).
* NEADS (New England Assistance Dog Service), P.O. Box 213, West
Boylston, Massachusetts 01583. 508-835-3304 (TT/voice). Verified
May '92.
* San Francisco SPCA, Hearing Dog Program, 2500 16th Street, San
Francisco, CA 94103. 415-554-3020. Verified March '92.
An organization that teaches deaf people to train their own dogs:
* Handi-Dogs, Inc., PO Box 12563, Tucson, Arizona 85732.
602-326-3412 or 602-325-6466.
The National Information Center on Deafness at Gallaudet University,
publishes a fact sheet on hearing ear dogs. It can be obtained by
sending $1.00 to NICD, Gallaudet University, 800 Flordia Ave., NE,
Washington, DC 20002. The fact sheet discusses commonly asked
questions about hearing ear dogs and it lists training programs across
the U.S.
_________________________________________________________________
Canine Companions for Independence
CCI was founded in 1975. They estimate that each of their dogs takes
about $20,000 to train, a cost covered by donations and volunteer
work. It is a national-wide organization with many regional chapters.
National Headquarters
4350 Occidental Road
P.O. Box 446
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446
702-528-0830 V/TDD
SW Regional Center
P.O. Box 8247
Rancho Santa Fe, CA 92067-8247
619-756-1012 V/TDD
NC Regional Center
4989 State Route 37 East
Delaware, OH 43015-9682
614-548-4447 V/TDD
NW Regional Center
1215 Sebastopol Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95407-6834
707-579-1985 V/TDD
SE Regional Center
P.O. Box 547511
Orlando, FL 32854-7511
407-682-2535 V/TDD
NE Regional Center
P.O. Box 205
Farmingdale, NY 11735-0205
516-694-6938 V/TDD
This organization is involved in training dogs to assist handicapped
people. They train signal dogs for the deaf, and dogs for physically
disabled or developmentally disabled persons.
Canine Companions for Independence has provided highly skilled
assistance dogs for people with disabilities since 1975. CCI started
as a small, at-home organization and has grown into a dynamic
non-profit agency with five regional centers nationwide.
A Canine Companion's specialized training starts in a volunteer puppy
raiser's home. The puppy raiser is responsible for the young dog's
care, socialization, and the teaching of basic commands. At 1.5 years
of age, the dog is returned to a CCI regional training center for
eight months of advanced training by a professional CCI instructor.
The dog is then ready for an intensive two-to-three week training camp
where its new owner learns to work with a fully trained dog.
It costs more than US$20,000 to breed, raise, and train each Canine
Companion, yet recipients pay only a US$25 application fee and US$100
for training seminar supplies. The dog is provided completely free of
charge. CCI depends entirely on donations; it does not receive
government funds. CCI also relies heavily on the dedication of its
many volunteers, who play a vital role in CCI's mission to provide
exceptional dogs for exceptional people.
The breeds CCI uses for service and social dogs are black and yellow
Labs, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Lab/Golden Retriever
mix. CCI is moving away from using German Shepherds for two reasons:
first, a lot of the public view (and fear) German Shepherds as
"police" or "guard" dogs, and second, German Shepherds bond very
strongly to people and the program is difficult on them because first
they form a strong bond to their puppy raiser, then to their trainer
when they go back to CCI, and then to their eventual handicapped
owner. For signal dogs they use Corgis and Border Collies.
CCI will work with people in need of assistance to determine if a
properly trained dog can provide that assistance. Dogs can be taught
to retrieve a variety of things -- even to distinguish between
specific items -- and to manipulate a variety of objects. Monkeys have
been tried for this purpose, as they are more dexterous. However, they
are not as reliably trainable and are very expensive, so dogs present
a much more practical alternative. Given some extensions, such as rope
handles on doors and light switches, dogs can give a disabled person
complete mobility within her or his home.
CCI finds and trains a variety of dogs for different forms of
assistance: hearing dogs, physically disabled assistant dogs, even as
therapy dogs. They are all neutered, as with guide dogs. People who
are to receive one of the dogs are required to attend a two-week
seminar to learn how to communicate and care for their assistance. As
needed, the people and their dogs are provided with permits that
identify the dogs as licensed canine companions -- this is enough to
gain entry into most places, as with the more well-known Seeing Eye
dogs.
Similar organizations include:
Canine Helpers for the Handicapped Inc
Beverly Underwood
5705 Ridge Rd
Lockport, NY 14094
(716)433-4035, voice/tty
Canine Working Companions, Inc
Pat McNamara, Director
RD 2 Box 170
Gorton Lake Road
Waterville, NY 13480
(315)861-7770 voice/tdd
_________________________________________________________________
Assistance Dog International (ADI)
ADI is a non-profit organization which is an association of other
non-profit organizations which do training for hearing and mobility
assist dogs. They are working on a test for street certification for
the hearing and mobility assist dogs. The idea is to come up with a
test that can be the standard for the US rather than having each
state/county having different standards. They also have information on
many training organizations in the US. They check out reports of
problems with assist dog trainers (read rip off artists).
ADI ADDRESSES
President
Robin Dickson (503) 826-9220
Dogs for the Deaf, Inc (ALSO ACTIVE IN)
10175 Wheeler Road
Central Point, OR 97502
Secretary
Sheila O'Brian (508) 835-3304
p.o. box 213
West Boylston MA 01583
Newsletter for ADI
Micheal Roche (303) 234-9512
p.o. box 150217
Lakewood, CO 80215
_________________________________________________________________
Therapy Dogs
Dogs are quite often used in therapy. This ranges from visiting
hospitalized people to being a companion dog for mentally handicapped
or disturbed persons. There are a variety of groups that train therapy
dogs, some local and some national. Some use the AKC Canine Good
Citizen test to choose suitable dogs, others have devised their own
Temperament Tests. You should note that therapy dogs ARE NOT
considered BY LAW in the United States to have the same status as
SERVICE DOGS. Service dogs directly assist their handicapped owners
with daily tasks in some fashion; therapy dogs do not. I have
included them in this file simply for convenience.
A national organization that dispenses information about therapy dogs
is the Delta Society, PO Box 1080, Renton, WA 98057, (206)226-7357.
In addition many local humane societies, breed clubs, and obedience
clubs do some hospital visitation.
RESOURCES:
*. Therapy Dog.
Therapy dog training. A good psychology book with gentle training
methods.
Harrington, Paula. Looking ahead: Guide Dogs for the Blind. 1st ed.
San Rafael, CA: Guide Dogs for the Blind, c1990.
This one is sort of a "coffee table" book; lots of nice color
photographs, and it covers the history of Guide Dogs, the training
(both for the dog and the blind person), the 4-H puppy raisers, and
lots of other stuff.
Pfaffenberger, Clarence J., et al., with the editorial assistance of
Sarah F. Scott. Guide Dogs for the Blind, Their Selection,
Development, and Training. Amsterdam; New York: Elsevier Scientific
Pub. Co.; distributors for the U.S. and Canada, Elsevier/North
Holland, 1976.
Many specific details on the genetics, training, 4-H project
coordination, and so forth.
Audio Dogs
27 Crescent Street
Brooklyn, New York 11208.
212-827-2792
Canine Companions For Independence (CCI)
P.O. Box 446
Santa Rosa, CA 95402-0446
707-528-0830 V/TDD
Delta Society
(Information on Therapy Dogs)
PO Box 1080
Renton, WA 98057
Dogs for the Deaf
Applegate Behavior Station
13260 Highway 238
Jacksonville, Oregon 97530.
503-899-7177
Fidelco Guide Dog Foundation
P.O. Box 142
Bloomfield,CT 06002
203-243-5200
Guide Dog Foundation
371 Jericho Turnpike
Smithtown, New York 11787.
516-265-2121
Handi-Dogs, Inc.
PO Box 12563
Tucson, Arizona 85732
602-326-3412 or 602-325-6466
Hearing Dog, Inc.
Agnes McGrath, Director
5901 E. 89 Ave.,
Henderson, Colorado 80640
303-287-3277 (voice/tty)
New England Assistance Dog Service (NEADS)
P.O. Box 213
West Boylston
Massachusetts 01583
508-835-3304 (TT/voice)
Verified May '92
San Francisco SPCA
Hearing Dog Program
2500 16th Street
San Francisco, CA 94103.
415-554-3020.
Verified March '92.
_________________________________________________________________
More Information
Cen/SHARE (Center for the Study of Human-Animal Relationships and
their Environments) is a privately & publically funded center
utilizing faculty from Vet Med and Psychology. They do quite a bit of
research and education, including studies of service dogs and their
owners. The director's name is Geraldine Gage. Her phone number is
612-625-5741. The associate director is Dr. Joseph Quigley at
612-626-0835. The mailing address is 80 Ford Hall, University of
Minnesota, Minneapolis 55455.
"Social acknowledgements for children with disabilities: effects of
service dogs." Bonnie Mader, et. al. Child Development 60:6 p1529-34.
And one more...."The Animal Preference Test and its relationship to
behavioral problems in young children." E.B. Rojas, et.al. Journal of
Personality Assessment 57:1, p141-8.
Pflaumer, Sharon
Seizure-alert dogs
Dog World 77(l): 42-43, January 1992
(the article says you can contact Reina Berner, The Epilepsy
Institute, 67 Irving Place, New York, NY 10003 where a program of
seizure -alerting dogs is being developed)
Mefford, Eleanor M
Bringing Up Baby
Dog World 77(2): 36-38,39 Feb, 1992
(article is about raising dogs to be used with young children
suffering from socialization problems and language abilities
problems)
Ashby, Ann Gritt
Healing war's wounds
Dog World 77(7): 40-43, July 1992
(article is about using animals as therapy for mentally ill
veterans)
_________________________________________________________________
Service Dogs FAQ
Janice Ritter
Version: 2.10
Last-modified: July, 1995
Current-edition: August, 1995
This is the Breed Rescue Organizations FAQ Part 2 of 2. It will be posted
on a regular basis and/or you can obtain the file via anonymous ftp at
rtfm.mit.edu under
/pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2. Or send email to
mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part1
send /usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/rescue/part2
in the body of the message leaving the subject line blank.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Rescue FAQ file 2 includes: Greyhounds to Yorkshire Terriers.
(All-breed or other specialty/area group rescues are listed at the end of
this file.)
Greyhound - see also Italian Greyhound
NATIONAL GROUPS
National Greyhound Network
415-851-7812
(will refer to the independent adoption group nearest you)
Greyhound Pets of America (GPA)
1-800-FON-1GPA (toll free, of course)
(366-1472)
National referral number. Call and leave a message on the
answering machine, and a member of a local GPA chapter will
contact you.
National Greyhound Adoption Program
215-331-7918
1-800-348-2517
Greyhound Club of America
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpenteria Avenue
Carpenteria, CA 93013
805-684-4914
Northern California Sighthound Rescue
Sandra Wornum
570 Riviera Cir.
Larkspur, CA 94939
415-924-7020
Operation Greyhound
Bruna Palmatier
8876 Shaula Way
San Diego, CA 92126
619-695-9488
National Greyhound Adoption Program
David Wolfe
8301 Torresdale Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19136
800-348-2517 or 215-331-7918
LOCAL GROUPS
Nina Bloom-Selling
4335 E. Carol Ann Lane
Phoenix, Arizona 85032
602-493-9144
Retired Racers - Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
Linda Brown
6027 Valley Sage Road
Acton, CA 93510
(805) 269-2544
(818) 347-3407
Greyhound Club of Northern California
Marjorie Leider
1091 Batavia Ave.
Livermore, CA 94550
415-447-4502
Friends for Life
Susan Netboy
5 Ranch Road
Woodside, CA 94062
415-851-7812
baylist: 415-851-7812
Greyhounds as Pets
Bill Fullerton
P.O. Box 6999
Colorado Springs, CO 80934
719-633-0171
USA Dog
Sally Allen, President
P.O. Box 1256
Carmel, IN 46032
317-244-0113 or 317-867-1704
Fort Myers Greyhound Adoption Center
Donna Forster
11511 Deal Road N.
Fort Myers, FL 33905
813-731-3187
Greyhound Rescue, Inc.
Susan Greenwald
118-B Jordan Court, N.E.
Palm Bay, FL 32905
407-951-2452
Greyhound Rescue League
Paula Johnson
106 Cayman Lane
Summerland Keys, FL 33042
305-872-2749
Greyhound Rescue League
Cinda Crawford
PO Box 13314
Tallahassee, FL 32317
904-878-1204
Second Chance for Greyhounds
Helen Banks
10826 Dean Street
Bonita Springs, FL 33923
813-947-2365
Tampa Greyhound Adoption Center
Kim Wyler
5629 E. Chelsea Street
Tampa, FL 33610
813-626-1116
or
Claire Bertine
1000 Reo St. John Drive
Jacksonville, FL 32211
904-743-6627
Companion Greyhounds
Contact: Dee Hanson
Marietta, GA
(404) 422-566
Diane Lunthacum
Rt. 2, Box 185 C
Thomasville, GA 31742
412-226-7632
Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
Beverly Thompson
116 Mary Street
Washington, IL 61571
309-745-5377
Candy Schultz
Greyhound Pet Connection
Woodstock, IL 60098
815-477-4900 (work)
815-568-8403 (home)
Nancy Wallace
IL
312-561-8324
Ellen Stokal
PO Box 7044
Villa Park, IL 60181
708-495-0074
Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
LaDonna Rea
PO Box 461
Plainfield, IN 46168-461
317-745-7772
Shirley Kuzmicz
Indiana
219-234-0880
Pat Lewallen
R.R. 4, Box 232W
Paola, KS 66071
913-294-3023
Greyhound Rescue, Inc.
John Davis
6397 Woodburn Rd.
Elk Ridge, MD 21227
410-796-2803
Maryland Chapter of GPA
Betty Rosen
11404 Lhasa Lane
Lutherville, MD 21093
410-252-7555
Cathy McIntyre
15 Pickering CT #01
Germantowne, MD 20874
301-540-4980 (area code might now be 410)
Greyhound Pets of America/Mass
Middleboro, MA
617-447-4866, 617-472-4055, 508-947-3654
Greyhound Pets of America/Mass-North Shore
Winchester, MA
617-729-2577
and
GPA/Central NH Placement
Anna Arsenault
603-742-8871
Greyhound Adoption of Western Mass
Longmeadow, MA
413-567-9022
Jane Klorer
617-729-2577 (MA)
Millie Merritt
617-472-4055 (MA)
Susan Gallotti
508-667-1251 (MA)
Greyhound Placement Service
603-474-5965 (NH)
603-942-7789 (NH)
508-462-7973 (MA)
Greyhound Life Line
Irene Milbury
228 E. Foxboro Street
Sharon, MA 02067
617-784-2157
Greyhound Adoption Service
Salisbury, MA
508-462-7973
Greyhound Friends, Inc.
Louise Coleman, Director
167 Saddle Hill Road
Hopkinton, MA 01748
508-435-5969
GREYHOUND FRIENDS, INC.
Lisa St. Pierre (413) 528-5548
R.D. 3, Box 121A1
Great Barrington, MA 01230
THE PROTECTION PROJECT, INC.
261 Robbins Street
Milton, MA 02186
(617) 333-4982
(617) 527-8843
Easthaven Animal Hospital
2140 S. Huron Parkway
Ann Arbor, MI 48104
313-971-3444
Michigan Greyhound Connection
Susan Riegel
797 River Bend Dr.
Rochester Hills, MI 48307
313-652-6270
Sue Riegle
313-652-6270 (MI)
Linda Zent
5779 Boxwood Drive
Boseman, MT 59715
406-586-8705
Adopt-A-Greyhound
MarieAnn Stanton
603-942-7789 (NH)
GREYHOUND FRIENDS, INC.
Mary Allen (518) 329-1595
Main Street
Copake, NY 12516
GREYHOUND FRIENDS, INC.
Gayle Blakesley (518) 674-5545
Albany, NY area
Cheryly Vincent
3671 Woodhaven Circle
Hamburg, NY 14075
716-648-8106
Catherine Settle
PO Box 2157
Sanford, NC 27330
919-775-7945
Greyhound Rescue and Adoption
Linn Murphy
PO Box 218205
Columbus, OH 43221-8205
614-777-4160
Diane Gamble, Ohio/Kentucky
606-261-2879
and
Sharon Murphy
606-371-5493
Oregon Greyhound Rescue
Elizabeth Bordeaux
2207 NE 79th Ave.
Portland, OR 97213
503-257-7220
RGA, Inc
RD #7 Box 317
Newcastle, PA 16102
412-667-0886
Make Peace with Animals, Inc.
Cynthia Branigan
PO Box 488
New Hope, PA 18938
215-862-0605
Richard Benjamin
PO Box 397
Beach Island, SC 29842
803-827-0918
Vickey Price
Columbia, SC
803-256-6939 (work)
803-782-0863 (home)
Greyhound Racers Recycled
Jan Huey
Box 270107
Houston, TX 77277-0107
713-665-3366
Greyhounds Unlimited
P.O Box 362
Fort Worth, TX 76101-0362
(817) 924-5956
(Dedicated mostly to greyhounds; do place some sighthounds)
Greyhounds Homeward Bound
Route 1, Box 6056a
Springtown, Texas 76082
817-748-2020
Greyhound Rescue of Vermont
Sharon Bucklin
802-878-4844 (VT)
Save The Greyhound Dogs
Ms. Scottie Devens
802-879-8838 (VT)
CANADA
Greyhound Pets of America: Canadian Chapter
Jane Longmore
RR 3 Appin, ON
NOL 1AO
Canada
519-289-2426 (10:00 am - 5:00 pm Eastern Time)
or
Linda Reidt
RR 1
Baltimore, ON
K0K 1C0
Canada
905-342-3391
Greyhound Racing Federation Of Canada
Linda M. Reidt
R.R. #1
Baltimore, ON K0K 1C0
(416) 342-3391
REM: retired racing greyhounds placement
Greyound Rescue Society
5325 Pearl Street
RR1
L/Oricnd, Ontario
Canada
613-678-3626
The Greyhound Connection
Adreinne Reid
49 Plymouth Avenue
St. Catharines Ontario,
Canada
905-984-6369
Greyhound Club of Canada
Christina DePierre
263 1st Ave
Ste-Anne-des-Plaines, PQ
JON 1HO
Canada
613-678-3626
Havowarts
Beth Lynch (Sec'ty of Havowart Club of America)
2322 Sawdust Road
Vienna, VA 22181
(410) 326-3832 (any day after 1 PM EST)
T. Ulf Westblom
email west...@sluvca.slu.edu
(for referral and breed info)
Husky -see Siberian Husky
Ibizan Hound
The Ibizan Hound Club of the United States
John O'Malley
806-746-5521 (TX)
also listed:
Rose Bednarski
2318 S. 15th Pl.
Milwaukee, WI 53215
414-634-9251
Manette Ward
CA
818-881-4368
baylist: 916-487-9979
Linda
705 Logan
Helena, MT 59601
(406)443-1380
email: run...@aol.com
Karen Mele
TN
615-653-4414
Robbie Vanderpool
6566 Ridgeview Circle
Dallas, TX 75240
214-385-2240
Irish Setter
Irish Setter Club of America Rescue
and Irish Setter Club of the Pacific
Marilee Larson
San Leandro, CA
(there are 2 diff. numbers listed)
510-351-2966
415-351-2966
baylist: 415-351-2966
Irish Setter Club of Central Conn.
Darlene Ferris
28 Point Beach Dr.
Milford, CT 06460
203-877-2431 and Nancy Conner (see her info above)
and
Phyllis Wier and Kate Seymour
Fairfield, CT Brookfield Center, CT
203-259-7542 203-775-9260
and
Lorrie Wolk and Kathie Murphy
East Hartford, CT Newington, CT
203-568-4873 203-666-3485
Alan Stern
Sarasota, FL
813-378-5647
Jan Ziech
Minooka, IL
815-475-7143, evenings only
Claire Marx
Windham, ME
207-892-3118
Irish Setter Club of New England
Nancy Conner
Montague, MA 01351
nco...@ocis.umass.edu (email adress)
413-367-2182 (evenings/wkends )
413-545-1955 (weekdays, 9-5, urgent messages only, please)
(President of Irish Setter Club New England 93-94)
Anne Looney
Feeding Hills, Mass.
413-786-1719
Susan Watson
Spencer, Mass.
508-885-9895
Lois Goepfert
Hanson, MA
617-293-5538
Irish Setter Club of Michigan
Negen O'Rukenbrod
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
313-664-2548
Lee Robinson
Mason, NH
603-878-1923
Beth Michaud & Bob Ritchie
Merrimack, NH 03054
603-424-5436
Eastern Irish Setter Association
Evelyn Kearon
RD 2, Box 293A
Branchville, NJ 07826
201-948-4921
Anna Jones
Berkeley Heights, NJ
908-464-5720
(was 1993 Eastern Irish Setter Assoc. pres.)
Fran Sloughfy
Blairstown, NJ
908-362-5464
Eastern Irish Setter Association, Inc.
Marge Lippman
201-962-4173
Irish Setter Club of Western New York
Robin Willey
Walworth, NY
315-986-3699
Irish Setter Club of Ohio
Nonda Jones
7578 River Rd.
Olmsted Falls, OH 44138
216-235-4197
Sharon Miller
PA
717-382-4086
Lynn Hayes
Putney, Vermont
802-254-4236
Irish Setter Rescue
Anne Schilling
Sun Prairie, WI
608-837-4696
a...@badger.adp.wisc.edu
and
Margie Hohman
Hortonville, WI
414-734-6734
Irish Setter Club of Ontario
Mrs. Constance O'Brien
R.R. #4 2418 South River Road
Kemptville, ON K0G 1J0
(613) 258-7765
Irish Terrier
Irish Terrier Club of America
Mary O'Brien
510-521-3246
California
Irish Terrier Club of Northern California
Diana Martin
189 San Luis Rd.
Sonoma, CA 95476
707-938-4698
Irish Terrier Club of Southern California
Nan Bruner
13431 Winthrope St.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-633-5156
Peggy Gill
|| MA
508-369-3006
Irish Water Spaniel
Irish Water Spaniel Club of America
Carolyn Lathrop, chairperson
125 Polk Street
Cumberland, MD 21502
301-724-9162
and
Elizabeth B. Peterson
5130 Kerfing Place
Winston-Salem, NC 27106
919-922-3934
Nancy Wiley
3150 Paradise Drive
Tiburon, CA 94920
415-461-7533
Florence Blecher
3310 Adina Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90068
213-874-0944
Nona and Harlan Noel
1835 Lakeshore Drive
Michigan City, IN 46360
219-872-0775
Norma Heiny
RR 9, Box 97
Bridgeton, NJ 08302
609-451-7480
Irish Wolfhound
Irish Wolfhound Association of New England
and
Irish Wolfhound Club of America
Marcia Frankel Forsythe
203-868-1955 (CT)
baylist: 818-894-8988
Irish Wolfhound Rescue Trust
Pat Huntley
16513 Napa Street
Sepulveda, CA 91343
818-894-8988
Sharon Yaskulski
|| IN
219-534-2086
Potomac Valley Irish Wolfhound Club
Herb Savage
Rte. 1, Box 711-D
Accokeek, MD 20607
301-283-4474
Irish Wolfhound Association of the Delaware Valley
Mrs. Frances Hall
Box 43, R.R. 1
Low's Hollow Rd.
Stewartsville, NJ 08886
201-859-3957
Irish Wolfhound Club of Puget Sound
Beverly Little
16252 Tiger Mountain Rd.
Issaquah, WA 98027
206-392-7241
Italian Greyhound
Italian Greyhound Club of America
Lynn K. Poston
909-829-7-4744 (CA)
(and an older listing)
Leslie Parsons
925 Canton St. NW
Palm Bay, FL 32907
407-724-9170
Cathie Wilt
ME
207-594-8492
Ray Filburn
MA
508-927-7309
June Mastrocola
W137 N9332 HY 145
Menomonee Falls, WI 53051
414-251-8347
Jack Russel Terrier
JRTCA Russel Rescue
c/o Catherine Brown
4757 Lakeville Road
Genesco, NY 14454
716-243-0929
|| Michelle Davies
|| CA (southern)
|| 714-680-0247
|| Kathy Padilla
|| CA (southern)
|| 310-547-5478
Jennifer Carr
508-676-1061 (work) (MA)
401-737-1041 (home)
|| Stephanie Taylor, DVM
|| OH
|| 216-656-3422
|| Kristen Cusak
|| OH
|| 216-659-3059
Jack Russell Terrier Club of Canada
Russell Rescue
Marla & Wayne Robinson
(519) 837-2921 (Ontario)
or
|| Yvonne Downey
|| Fort Erie, Ontario
|| 416-871-8691
Japanese Chin (Spaniel)
Japanese Chin Club of America
Lucien Collins, Secretary
(408) 730-2212 (CA)
and
Gail Hink
815-393-3020 (IL)
and
Japanese Chin Care
Jean Bebensee
(407) 582-3859 (FL)
Betty Dickey
517-792-6275 (MI)
Malcolm Barr
703-354-0199
VA
Japanese Shiba Inu
|| National Shiba Club of America Rescue Society
|| Loretta Cornelius
|| (612) 463-8460
or
|| Bruce & Jeri Braviroff
|| (909) 596-1813
pr
|| Cheryl Ciccaglione
|| (203)569-3823 (CT)
Northeast Shiba Rescue
203-569-3823
Mary Malone
216-823-2388
Ohio
Keeshond
Keeshond Club of America
Carole Henry
919-742-7479 (NC)
or
Barbara Morrison
215-459-3141
Joan Czarnyszka
AZ
(602) 249-2775
Donna Lundeen
Northern CA
(916) 885-0812
Penny Mansur
Northern CA
(916) 933-4660
Nor-Cal Keeshond Club, Inc.
430 Bay Rd.
Menlo Park, CA 94025
415-322-2246
Jane Norton
Northern CA
(916) 753-3244
Wayne Peters
Northern CA
(415) 322-2246
Libby McGreevy
San Bruno, CA (northern CA)
415-952-1765
ha...@sirius.com
Carol and Dennis Mollberg
Southern CA (909) 780-2514
baylist: 415-322-2246
Peak to Peak Keeshond Rescue
Sue Riegel
1878 Old Highway #52
Erie, CO 80516
Peak to Peak Keeshond Fanciers
Carol Schwenk
220 Cypress Circle
Broomfield, CO 80020
303-469-4181
Mike Faass
Georgia (404) 463-0906
Harold and Patti Brizee
ID
(208) 362-0346
Rodger McDowall
IL
(708) 775-9234
Keeshond Fanciers of the Central States
Rescue Committee
Dina Zinnes
Champaign IL
217-398-2241
Pat Williams
IN
(317) 662-3204
Peggy Willoughby
IN
(812) 858-9545
Pepper Guzman
MD
(301) 421-4466
Connie Miller
MD
301-464-3976
Donna Stekli
MD
301-293-9556
Maryellen Grace and Irene Fonseca
MA
508-222-3300
John and Joan Malak
MI
313-279-1982
Pat Tocalis
MI
517-676-6757
Nancy and Fred Dietze
MN
612-459-5474
Connie Davis
MO
816-727-3536
Pat Westfall
MT
406-228-2758
Linda Moss
NC
919-965-9230
Sharon & Darrell Buethner
702-232-0474 (ND)
Sandy and Herbie Bell
505-662-7715 (NM)
Robbie Montoya
505-471-0456 (NM)
Barbara Jean Wilson
505-662-9544 (NM)
Keeshond Club of Greater Oklahoma City
Tommie Howard
4015 S. Dobbs
Harrah, OK 73045
405-271-3922
405-391-4738
KEES Club
Dallas
214-231-4159
or
Houston
(713)581-9151
Referrals
Greater Houston Keeshond Club
Michelle McCluskey, rescue contact
713-869-8229, ext. 11 (TX)
Pat Tasker
VA
703-330-5792
Pacific Crest Keeshond Club
Pat Shuler
1520 NE 106th
Seattle, WA 98125
206-362-6727
Kerry Blue Terrier
United States Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Joanne K. Schlindler, chair
12056 Cedar Creek
Cincinnati, OH 45240
513-742-3745
Empire Kerry Blue Terrier Club Gwen Resk
645 Pine Brook Blvd.
New Rochelle, NY 10804
914-235-8555
Greater Boston Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Rhoda Bergman (N.E. Mass)
Off Cross Rd.
Lunenberg, MA 01462
508-342-5044
or
Brian Lowney (S.E. Mass and R.I.)
1307 Gardners Neck Rd.
South Swansea, MA 02777
508-672-6086
Kerry Blue Terrier Club of Southern CA
Janet Joers
805-688-2478
or
Lisa Frankland
805-734-1280
Kerry Blue Terrier Club of Northern CA
Diane Lee
410-439-7476
Kerry Blue Terrier Club of Canada
Rescue & Relocation
Daryl Enstone
P.O.Box 72
Station "Q"
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
M4T 2L7
tel: 519-746-3039
fax: 519-746-6741
Internet e-mail: dens...@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca
Western Canada Kerry Blue Terrier Club
Lee Templeton, Sec.
604-325-3157 (Vancouver, BC)
King Charles Spaniel -see Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, English Toy Spaniel
Komondor
National Komondor Rescue Network
Betty O'Donnell
207-283-3528 (ME)
Komondor Club of America
National Coordinator of Rescue & Adoption
Sandy Hanson
KCA Secretary
414-594-3374
Middle Atlantic States Komondor Club
Stewart L. Wells
102 North Church
Snow Hill, MD 21863
301-632-2180
Komondor Rescue
Kim Misciagna,
29 Jumping Frog Ct, St. Charles, MO 63303
(314-925-0173)
(handles MO and bordering states)
Joy Levy
NJ
609-924-0199
Ruth/Ken Todd
NY
516-379-8286
Komondor Rescue Committee, Komodor Club of America
Region IV (covers OK)
Director: Richard Heaney, P.O. Box 849, Magnolia, TX 77355
(713-356-4419)
Pat Randall
512-288-2091 (TX)
Kuvasz
American Kuvaz Association
Dan Wasson
6261 Penrod
Detroit, MI 48228
(313) 271-5438
Kuvasz Club of America
Mayling Koval
P.O. Box 503
Hopewell Junction, NY 12533
(914) 227-6041
and
Aino Andres
NY
914-664-8104
and
Nancy Schefcick
MI
313-271-5438
Kuvasz Fanciers of America.
Gail Dash, Rescue Chair
818-366-533
Mary Brownell
VT
802-442-8693
Labrador Retriever
National Labrador Retriever Club
Rescue Coordinator
Virginia Campbell
408-476-0759 (Soquel, CA) (Can help refer you to local groups)
Is creating a database of all local Lab Rescue groups.
Please send any info on local groups.
Golden Gate Labrador Retriever Club (CA)
415-361-0261 - call for referrals to local groups
San Francisco Bay area.
Labrador Retriever Rescue Hotline
Central Connecticut
(anybody know the number?)
Labrador Retriever Club of Central Connecticut
Julie Starkweather
203-426-0770 (CT)
Labrador Retriever Club of the Potomac
Lab Rescue, Inc.
President, Give-up
Jackie Mischou
301-253-5380 (MD)
or
Adoptions, Maryland
Catherine Lewis
301-208-8071
or
Adoptions Chair, VA
Cathy Klecz
703-368-3219
Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston
Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc.
c/o Jill Silverman
504 Essex St.
South Hamilton, MA 01982
508-369-8736
Labrador Retriever Rescue of PA
Pam Heidorn
215-822-8589
Chalfont, PA
Mary Pat Meirs
215-953-0147
Feasterville, PA
or
Eileen Melair
215-343-7929
Warrington, PA
or
Pat Henning
215-489-0710 (after 7pm)
Collegeville, PA
Sharon Phelts
517-651-2080 (MI)
Central Ohio Labrador Retriever Club
contact: Kim Toms
614-873-1778 (central Ohio)
Winnebago Labrador Retriever Club & Rescue
Covers WI, N. Ill., and N. Ind. and Iowa
Peg Schneumann
(708)587-0929
(Northen IL)
- or -
Sharon Grieves
Rt 3, 6128 Emerson Rd
Beloit WI 53511
(608)879-9095
- or -
Deb Forest
715-659-5507 (IL)
- or -
Kent and Deb Hamele
608-273-0172
kaha...@facstaff.wisc.edu (WI)
- or -
Peg Stevens
Ripon, WI
414-748-3989
Lab Rescue
301-253-5820 (MD)
Marta
301-831-0391 (evenings, before 10:00 pm) (MD)
Lab Rescue
VA
301-299-6756
Labrador Retriever Club of Canada
Diane Smith, Sec.
7078 Mark Lane
PO Box 69, RR 5
Victoria, BC
V8X 4M6
Canada
604-652-0180
Diane Warfield
MD
301-253-5820
Debbie Kay
VA
804-443-6998
Mary Feazell
TX
817-461-8306
Mike Moore
510-937-5836 (CA)
Paul & Anne Gamlin
415-592-839 (CA)
Peggy Hickox
415-334-4717 (CA)
Lakeland Terrier
United States Lakeland Terrier Club
Sandra Beatson
404-513-7431 (GA)
Lhasa Apso
San Diego County Lhasa Apso Club
Willima and Shirley Benedict
11202 Promesa Drive
San Diego, CA 92124
619-278-2484
Lowchen
Gini Denninger
315-524-8022
New York
Malamute -see Alaskan Malamute
Maltese
Evergreen Maltese Club
Berverly Passe
6015 Rosedale St. NW
Gig Harbor, WA 98335
206-858-9266
baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117
|| Sandy Rinder
|| New York
|| 212-475-8479
|| (and poodles)
|| Annette Feldblum
|| MA
|| 508-248-6643
|| Referrals only
Manchester Terriers
American Manchester Terrier Club
Patricia Hall
215-957-0109
PA
Richard Hurt
VA
804-392-683
Evergreen Empire Manchester Terrier Fanciers
Mauriel Hankel
4961 NE 193rd St.
Seattle, WA 98155
206-365-0445
Mastiff -see also Neapolitan Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Mastiff Club of America Rescue Service
Jim Hoobin
508-399-7315 (MA)
NOTE: removal of Phyllis Miller - she NO LONGER
DOES MASTIFF RESCUE. Please don't call her.
Lucinda
414-822-8785
Mastiff Club of America
Randy Hess
PA
717-865-2847
Gary Roach
PA
215-473-4188
Mastiff rescue
David Einhorn
208 Hobart Rd.
Hanover PA 17331-8105
email: dein...@isnov.ab.umd.edu
Karen Dorsch
PA
215-446-9644
Miniature Pinscher
Minature Pinscher Club of America
Joyce K. Somero
313-398-0843
MI
Miniature Pinscher Rescue of Orlando, FL
Kathleen and Scottie
e-mail sird...@aol.com
Canadian Miniature Pinscher Club
Edris Matulock
6611 - 8th Ave.
Regina, SK S4T 7H3
(306) 949-6593
Namcy Johnson
703-297-7200
Joyce Sproule
508-378-9061
Miniature Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-Miniature
Neapolitan Mastiff -see also Mastiff, Tibetan Mastiff
Carol Paulsen
315-389-4028
New York
Newfoundland
Newfoundland Club of America
Mary L. Price
1004 Hwy. 78 South
Mt. Horeb, WI 53572
608-437-4553
National Newfoundland Club Rescue Comm.
Diana Thompson
1000 Griffith St.
Louisville, CO 80027-1424
303-666-6585
baylist: 415-364-7637
Newfoundland Club of New England
Ellen Katz
617-329-8157 (MA)
|| Great Lakes Newfoundland Club
|| Rescue Chair
|| Kathy Smith
|| MI
|| 313-495-0496
|| Harriet McConnell
|| MI
|| 616-780-3625
Linda Stierle
313-335-3871 (MI)
Newfoundland Dog Club of the Twin Cities
Nancy Robinson
8338 12th Ave. S.
Bloomington, MN 55420
612-854-6943
or Lory Cosgrove
410 Lakorta Lane
Chanhassen, MN 55318
612-496-3628
Newfoundland Rescue SE Region
Jackie Goertz
7905 Jenkins Ridge Ct.
Raleigh, NC 27613
919-782-8312
email: jgo...@cybernetics.net
and
Marilyn Whelpley
440 Habersham St.
Savannah, GA 31401
912-233-0838
Genesee Region Newf Club
Hannah Hayman
5451 Rathbun Road
Cazenovia, NY 13035
|| Annamarie Yurvati
|| OH 614-855-1614
|| (rescue & adoption in IN, KY, MI, OH, PA)
Rocky Mtn Newfoundland Club Rescue
Paul or Terry Cross
801-565-9879 (UT)
|| Colonial Newfoundland Club (MD, VA, WV, DC)
|| Shelly Childs
|| 1824 Cotten Farm Lane
|| Suffolk, VA 23432
|| (804) 255-2812
Norfolk Terrier and Norwich Terrier
Norwich and Norfolk Terriers Club of America
Susan M. Ely
908-766-5429 (NJ)
Norwich and Norfolk Terriers
Martha Seaman
313-647-1603 (MI)
Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club
Mrs. Lee Donaldson
121 Carolina Forest
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
919-929-3105
Mrs. Joseph Mattison
617-326-0950 (MA)
Norwegian Elkhound
Norwegian Elkhound Associ. of America
Diane Coleman
|| NC
|| 919-284-1342
Norwegian Elkhound Association of Northern California
Karen Allen
Northern California
415-591-8056 (after 7pm)
Norwegian Elkhound Breed Rescue
Southern CA
Judy DeClercq
714-774-8863
or
Scot Stockton
310-813-3148
sc...@mamacass.etdesg.trw.com OR
sc...@iceland.etdesg.trw.com
|| NEARE
|| Kristina Doublas
|| DE
|| 302-545-7225
Norwegian Elkhound Club of Potomac Valley
Geri King
3028 Hewitt Ave., #238
Silver Spring, MD 20906
301-871-5487
Barbara Plant
508-636-5548 (MA)
(referrals only)
Marion Szymanski
508-747-2728 (MA)
baylist: 415-591-8056
Old English Sheepdog
Old English Sheepdog Club of America
Laurie McCain
706 Whitney's Landing Rd.
Crownsville, MD 21032
(410) 923-6181
Old English Sheepdog Fanciers of Central Arizona
Cheryl Kulzer
2112 N. Pennington Dr.
Chandler, AZ 85244
602-821-5727
Old English Sheepdog League of Northern California
Pam Henry
2491 Darla Dr.
Santa Rosa, CA 95401
707-579-1848
Chicagoland Old English Sheepdog Club
Grace Fujikawa
381 Fairview Ave.
Winnetka, IL 60093
708-446-7381
Heather
313-338-8828 (MI)
Melisande
central PA
(814) 237-0422
Greater Pittsburg Old English Sheedog Club
Chris Gaburri
457 Orchard Ave.
Pittsburg, PA 15202
412-761-0493
Greater Portland Old English Sheepdog Club
Nancy Miller
1850 SW Filmont
Portland, OR 97225
503-646-6187
New England Old English Sheepdog Rescue, Inc.
Annie Raker
Stonehedge
Lincoln, MA
617-259-8173
Madeline Erickson
|| 6829 Chili-Riga Center Rd.
|| Churchville, NY 14428
716-293-2967
Twin Colonies Old English Sheepdog Club of Norther New Jersey
Shelia Kenyon
4 Log Rd.
Morristown, NJ 07960
201-538-4129
Jack Wilhelm
206-771-7349
"Rescues & places large shaggy dogs, particularly
Old English Sheepdog mixes"
|| Bruce Ladoux
|| Nashua, NH
|| 603-889-2536
Otter Hound
Otterhound Club of America
Betsy Conway Rd1, Box 134A
Yorktown Heights, NY 10598
914-245-6354
Ellen Katz
617-329-8157
Russell Von der Linden
603-298-8432
New Hampshire
baylist: 415-851-4248
Papillon
Metropolitan Area Papillion Club of Washinton, DC
Margaret Quarts
3650 Mill Creek Dr.
Haymarket, VA 22069
703-754-2557
Papillon Club of America
Diana Fuchs
Rt. 7, Box 5310
Quincy, FL 32351
904-875-1422
Patriot Papillon Rescue Committee
508-339-5620
508-597-5382
508-948-2278 (MA)
Jackie & Ray Potocki
508-462-7607 home
508-462-6534 work (MA)
Jan Burger
508-948-2275 (MA)
Theresa Kaplan
310-472-0011
CA
PBGV -see Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
Pekingese
Pekingese Club of America
Louise Harden
410-255-2166
MD
Patty & Donald Hempel
408-377-7718 (CA)
Elizabeth Fielder
408-438-5756 (CA)
Jean and Don Thomas
415-342-7956 (CA)
HM Thomas
510-656-2461 (CA)
For Peke's Sake
301-589-1159
301-559-8744
301-869-6528 (MD)
Margaret Reeves
508-771-8127
Mass.
Allison Chase
603-672-6049
New Hampshire
Hope Burghardt
607-547-5207 (Cooperstown, NY)
703-456-8395 (Virginia)
* Hope may also be contacted for assistance with Toy
Poodles, Japanese Chins, Boston Pugs, Pomeranians, and
most Toy breeds.
|| Peke. Club of America
|| Linda Pierce
|| OH
|| 216-549-5124
or
|| Bessie Pickens
|| OREGON
|| 503-659-2056
or
|| James & Martha Lewis
|| TN
|| 615-378-3091
Pembroke Welsh Corgi -see Welsh Corgi Pembroke
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen Club of America
Millie Williams
616-379-0668 (MI)
Jennifer King
908-462-0340
New Jersey
Barbara Wicklund
908-281-6532 home
609-396-2904 work
New Jersey
Pharoah Hound
Pharoah Hound Club of America
Donald Delmore
510-521-3228
CA
Rita Sacks
914-687-9200 (NY)
Ellen DeWolf
508-867-7437 (MA)
baylist: 916-687-6696
Pointer
American Pointer Club
Rescue Chair
Joyce Blakely
151 Leigh Drive
Pikeville, NC 27863
(919) 242-3154
Erica Bandes
203-266-7883
Connecticut
Polski Owczarek Nizinny (Pons)
International P.O.N. Society
Chris and Tom Ferraro
IL
708-697-0559
Pomeranian
American Pomeranian Club
Brenda Segelken, rescue chair
618-965-3278 (IL)
Julie Moreno
415-583-4973 (CA)
Dolly Tavner
415-346-5314 (CA)
Denver Metro Pomeranian Club
Rescue contact: Opal Dumler
CO
(303) 688 - 3768
|| Pomeranian Fanciers Club
|| Paula Payson
|| Ashby, MA
|| 508-386-7794
|| Susann Philbrook
|| Pom Rescue for NJ, NYC, Long Island, DE, and PA
|| Phone (609) 267-4644
|| Fax (609) 267-3799 ext:0
|| email: ECF...@Prodigy.Com
|| (Long distance calls will be returned collect.)
Cindy Boulware
6450 Rolling Heights Circle
Kaufman, TX 75142
214-932-3872
Hope Burghardt
607-547-5207 (Cooperstown, NY)
703-456-8395 (Virginia)
* Hope may also be contacted for assistance with Toy
Poodles, Japanese Chins, Boston Pugs, Pekanese, and
most Toy breeds.
Poodle
Poodle Club of America
Sally Kinne
214-235-7145 (TX)
or
Marjorie Hettrick
513-521-1530 (OH)
Poodle Club of Mass.
617-628-1425 (MA)
Sallie Perkins
Beverly Hills, CA
(try directory assistance)
Greater Pittsburg Poodle Club
Janice Gunn
412-486-2626 (PA)
Poodle Club of Southeast Michigan
Nancy Nastasi
41940 Quince Dr.
Novi, MI 48050
313-344-0181
Poodle Club of Tulsa
Mary Yeakey
2506 S. Cincinnati
Tulsa, OK 74114
918-582-0301
Sherry Wargo
517-795-2663 (MI)
Poodle Rescue Program
Poodle Club of Central California
Patricia Moulthrop, chair
815 Las Trampas Road
Lafayette, CA 94549
voice mail: 510-295-1070
Poodle Rescue
Linda
301-977-2873 (MD)
or
Joan
301-744-9711
(MD)
baylist: Betty Janz (standard poodle)
15870 Turquise Pl.
Grass Valley, CA 95945
Theresa Kaplan
CA
310-472-0011
|| Caroline Rose
|| Southern CA
|| 818-888-7613
|| Marie Martel
|| Southern CA
|| 818-249-6354
Toy Poodle Rescue
Sandy Hartle
412-823-6459 (Pittsburgh, PA)
Ruth Burall
MD
301-663-4377
Pat Lloyd
301-449-3789
MD
Janet Cook
VA
804-934-2720
Quinnipiac Poodle Club
203-237-2578 (CT)
Portuguese Water Dog
Portuguese Water Dog Club of America
Mary Haskins
215-257-9570
Internet: 75327...@compuserve.com
or
Steven Beder
NY
516-997-8326
Pug
Pug Dog Club of America
Ray and Pat Kolesar
715-424-7847 (WI)
Bluebonnet Pug Dog Club
Margaret Dunning
1107 Derbyshire Lane
Carrollton, TX 75007
214-242-6175
Central Indiana Pug Club
Donald Foral
3502 E. 39th St.
Indianapolis, IN 46205
317-546-7815
City of Angels Pug Club
Blanche Roberts
22963 Hatteras
Woodland Hills, CA 91367
818-703-5026 or 788-7885
The following are in southern CA:
Lois Gibson
310-457-8016
Mary Phillips
818-353-8788
Thelma Ames
909-679-5693
Sherry Woodbury
818-795-3944
------------
Columbine Pug Club of Denver, Colorado
Quaylene Frazier
12478 W. Bowler Dr.
Littleton, CO 80127
303-972-2558
Great Lakes Pug Club
Geraldine Woodrick
10839 S. Nagle Ave.
Worth, IL 60482
708-448-7819
Greater Atlanta Pug Dog Club
Teri Smith
Rt. 1, Box 76-3 Weems Rd.
Molena, GA 30258
404-648-6710
404-647-6622
Greater Milwaukee Pug Club
Barbara Nook
6820 N. Trenton Rd.
West Bend, WI 53095
414-338-6860
Mid Michigan Pug Club
Terry Smith
221 E. Scott St.
Grand Ledge, MI 48837
517-627-5916
Missouri Valley Pug Fanciers
Barbara Hull
Rt. 1, Box 31
Denton, NE 68339
402-475-6841
402-474-5331
Pug Club of South Florida
Pat Antle
208 Farmington Dr.
Plantation, FL 33317
305-587-0556
Pug Dog Club of Greater Cincinnati
Maryl Hodapp
1080 Hine Rd.
Hamilton, OH 45013
513-892-0014
Pug Dog Club of Greater New York
Ceilia Geary
50 Greenwich Ave., Apt. 5C
New York, NY 10011
212-929-6606
or Shirley Thomas
43-64 Bowne St.
Flushing, NY 11355
718-762-7508
Pug Dog Club of Greater San Antonio
Marilynn Ellis 4207 N. Halsey
Victoria, TX 77901
512-573-2556
Pug Club of Maryland
Billie Hitt
14249 Briarwood Terrace
Rockville, MD 20853
301-871-8063
Pug Dog Club of Northern California
Barry Clothier
3339 Irving St.
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-566-6009
Pug Rescue of New England
Doris Aldrich
17 Jones Rd.
Pelham, MA 01002
413-253-3066
or Fran Stuart
31 Pine St.
Peterborough, NH 03458
603-924-6026
Puget Sound Pug Dog Club
Carolyn McDuffie
832 SW 142nd St.
Seattle, WA 98166
206-241-0658
Tampa Bay Pug Club
Elizabeth Page
3965 Richy Rd.
Mims, FL 32754
407-269-0555
Betty Dickey
517-792-6275
Yankee Pug Dog Club
Debora Chamberland
183 Cedar St.
****can't tell the address*****
Pug Club of Canada Rescue Program
Jennifer Threndyle
25 Broadoaks Drive, Apt 206
Downsview, Ontario
M3J 1E3
1-416-635-6961
Dot Kelly
617-837-5719 (MA)
baylist: 415-592-0732 or 408-252-0598
Puli
Puli Club of America
Betty Ostermeier
303-364-2836
Colorado
Rat Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States
National Rescue Chair
Dana Jefferson, Ph.D.
302-996-6480
or
Mrs. Edna Gilbert
Box 155
Collingswood, NJ 08108
(Send $2.00 to Mrs. Gilbert for an Ridgeback Rescue
rescue packet, including a list of rescue volunteer.)
Natalie Carlton
5630 N. Abington Rd.
Tucson, AZ 85743
602-743-7570 (AZ/NM/CA)
Recycled Ridgebacks
Jim Scatinni
408-484-1433 (mid CA)
or
Bonnie Louden
410-799-1273 (MD)
or
Stephanie Meroney
VA
703-777-2402
Mr. & Mrs. Berger
CA
818-989-8617
Frank DePaulo
215-767-8687 (PA)
Trinity Valley Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Texas
?? Sandra Morehart (East of I-135)
6122 Blackberry Lane
Dallas, TX 75248
214-387-1059
or
Bobbie Gould (West of I-135)
5927 Inks Lake Dr.
Arlington, TX 76018
817-468-7300
??? Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the U.S.
Rescue/Adoption
Ulla-Britt Ekengren
508-649-7020 (MA)
Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Eastern Canada
Jo Dunn, President
R.R. #3
Walkerton, ON N0G 2V0
(519) 881-0886
Mary MacKinnon
802-644-5388
Vermont
Greater Valley Forge Rodesian Ridgeback Club
Richard Gordon (PA,MD,NJ,DE)
302-996-6480
ric...@strauss.udel.edu
Midwest RRC (WI,IL)
Judy Rochon
(608) 221-0878
New Englad RRC
Natalie Bandeian-Zoll
208-389-8676
Northwest RRC (WA, OR)
Shirley Wait
206-335-3232
Orange Coast RRC (Southern CA)
Sandra Abney
(909) 780-7080
or
Jacque Rex
(909) 381-3064
or
Barbara Rupert
19071 Equestrian Lane
Orange, CA 92660
714-532-5559
Raisen River RRC (MI)
Lina Gonterman
(313) 553-7443
RRA of Western New York
Mary Teeling
(716) 599-4133
RRC of Texas and Trinity Valley RRC of Texas
Tami Satterfield
(817) 485-9465
San Diego RRC (CA)
Dana Steadley
(619) 749-6358
or
Renee Woods
619-945-1080
Thomas Whitehurst
Indiana
812-474-9193
Shara Ryan
Ohio
513-236-4262
Rottweiler
American Rescue the Rottweiler Foundation (AARF)
713-645-ARRF, extension 1. (TX, but can give local referrals)
American Rottweiler Club
Doreen LePage
401-568-9561
Rhode Island (should be able to give more local referrals)
Jennifer Beban
313-749-5370 (MI)
Aloha State Rottweiler Club
Claire Inouye
608 Hunapaa St.
Honolulu, HI 96816
808-734-0401
Karen Cruz & Debra Barnum
CO
303-232-4202
Janna Morgan
CO
303-745-0222
Bonnie Guzman
303-733-4220 (CO)
Rottweiler Club of Maine Rescue League (Maine only)
Jonathan Petry
Augusta, Maine
207-549-5541
or
Richard and Karen Leighton
207-727-5596 (ME)
or
Debra Cone & Larry Hamilton
207-457-2074 (ME)
Rottweiler Rescue League
Bonnie Buckley (also other breeds and mixed breeds)
3 Colgan Rd.
Merrimac, MA 01860
508-346-9068
Karen Billings
617-449-2452 (eastern Mass. only)
Alicia DeCelle
601-832-8450
In MS
Robin Roncoroni
908-459-5333 (NJ)
Greater New York Rottweiler Club
John Gianninoto
310 Brook Avenue
Bayshore, NY 11706 (try - may not have rescue groups
set up, but may be able to help w/ referrals.)
baylist: 818-765-5997
The following are all in Florida:
In Jacksonville area:
Ray Gunderson 904-778-8524
Pat Stout 904-268-0207
Patricia Gilliard 904-384-5857
Marja McGinnis 904-262-4103 Home weekdays
In West Palm Beach Area:
Jackie Humphries 407-684-1112
Pat Swindle 407-471-5756
Carla Hopper 305-435-3985
Chip Dore 407-798-5153
In Havana, FL area:
Bonnie & Al Wimberly 904-539-9663
Marylou Stott
4517 W. Vliet St.
Milwaukee, WI 53208
414-342-6974
Terry Nuss
609-467-4844 (NJ)
Kim
Rutherford NJ
201-935-7076
Does rotties and GSDs.
Linda Herrscher
214-422-1326 (TX)
Carol Ray
817-430-8795 (TX)
Lala Stone
713-644-5906 (TX)
Saint Bernard
St. Bernard Club of America
Rescue Chairman
Carol Varner
24246 N. 43rd Avenue
Glendale, AZ 85310
(602) 879-6184
Greater Milwaukee St. Bernard Club
Jan Much
924 E. Michigan
Oak Creek, WI 53154
414-764-0262
North Texas St. Bernard Club
Kathy Bishop
c/o 1423 Hampton Rd.
Grapevine, TX 76051
214-727-3537
Northern Colorado St. Bernard Club
Patty Neumayer
913 S. Rifle St.
Aurora, CO 80017
303-695-1349
St. Bernard Club of Puget Sound
Carole Dvorak
P.O. Box 343
Maple Valley, WA 98038
206-432-0506
Southern Maryland St. Bernard Fanciers
Dawn Camp
301-934-3785 (MD)
St. Bernard Club of the Pacific Coast
Penny Mahon
15244 Arnold Dr.
Glen Ellen, CA 95442
707-996-4319
Judy Sage
313-682-9628 (MI)
New England St. Bernard Club
Janice Myers
508-697-7790 (MA)
Cindy Stark
508-852-2483 (MA)
Liz Gaudet
203-746-4603
Connecticut
St. Bernard Rescue
Kathleen Babbins
301-645-4865 (MD)
Ken Juenke
email: kenJ...@aol.com
Nevada
Saluki
Saluki Club of America
Cloris Costigan
908-257-9134 (NJ)
Saluki Club of Greater San Francisco
President/Acting Rescue Chair
Brian Duggan
P.O.Box 1168
Santa Cruz, CA 95061
(408) 423-6223 evenings, fax at (408) 423-0635
email: bdu...@scilibx.ucsc.edu (prefers phone calls)
San Angeles Saluki Club
Len Lundgren
P.O. Box 44517
Sylmar, CA 44157
818-369-9033
Celeste Johnson Frasher
203-322-6370
Connecticut
Lorraine Tremholm
508-385-9936 (MA)
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389 (MI)
Scott Ekblad
P.O. Box 112
Beavercreek, OR 97004-0112
Ofc (503) 494-5227
Home (503) 632-8569
Samoyed
Samoyed Club of America
National Coordinator
Gail Spiker
415-325-8115 (CA)
Wilna Coulter
211 Lynton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070
Denver Samoyed Association Rescue
Heidi Nieman, Carolyn Bateman,
Linda Kitzman, Deb Castro, Brenda Abbott
email: bab...@k12pc.acns.colostate.edu
(303) 838-5429 (CO)
Potomac Valley Samoyed Club
Jim Lamott
14908 Chestnut Ridge Ct.
Gaithersburg, MD 20878
301-340-9804
Minuteman Samoyed Club
Mary Ellen Fydenkevez
413-665-4125 (western Mass and RI)
Michigan Samoyed Rescue
Sharon Kremsreiter
4735 N Williamston Rd
Williamston MI 48895
email: ew...@cleveland.freenet.edu
517/655-1200
Heart of America Samoyed Club (HOASC)
Lynn Scheffner
3501 Rock Creek Dr.
Kansas City, MO 64116
(816) 452-7372
Elaine Gold
1022 Oak St
Columbus, OH 43205-3113
(614) 258-7267
|| Samoyed Rescue
|| Kathy Buckner
|| OR
|| (206) 537-2650
or
|| Wendy Britt
|| (206) 539-077
Delaware Valley Samoyed Rescue
Sandy Phifer
2091 Hendricks Station Rd
Harleysville, PA 19438
(215) 234-8308
Dallas/Ft. Worth Samoyed Club
Dan Rowold Secretary
(817) 321-6139 (TX)
Samoyed Club of Austin, Inc
Jim & Joan Auld
3310 Catalina Drive
Austin, TX 78741
home: (512) 441-6912
work: (512) 451-2392 (after 6:00 pm)
fax: (512) 441-2900
email: Sno...@aol.com
or
Tom and Michelle Hardy
9 Carriage House Way
Austin, TX 78737
(512) 288-0059
Samoyed Club of Washington
Sandra Goodspeed
11718 - 193rd Ave E
Sumner, WA 98380
|| -or-
|| email: Debra Higgins
|| higg...@u.washington.edu
(contact person)
or
|| Carol Kinne
|| New Berlin, NY
|| 607/847-8942 (home)
|| 315/824-7896 (office)
|| email: cki...@center.colgate.edu
|| (contact person)
Shar Pei -see Chinese Shar Pei
Schipperke
|| National Schipperke Club of America
|| National Rescue Coordinator
|| Laura Nichols
|| Houston, TX
|| (713) 488-0876
or
Mary Cox (past chair?)
313-644-7876 (MI)
Marie Hills
508-476-2478 (MA)
Lone Star Schipperke Club
Beverly Henry
2025 Sam Houston Cr.
Carrollton, TX 75006
214-416-1504
Colonial Schipperke Club
Mary Nielsen
700 Forest Park Rd.
Great Falls, VA 22066
703-759-3820
Schnauzer-Giant
Jody Kay Berg
609-935-5694
New Jersey
Doris Redmann
815-678-3311
baylist: 415-262-0597
Schnauzer-Miniature
American Miniature Schnauzer Club
Peggie Blakley
9761 11th St.
Garden Grove, CA 92644
714-531-7473
Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Jonnie Hart
3085 SW 107th Avenue
Portland, OR 97225
503-292-6510
Hannah Whitman
503-244-0145
Rick Vaughn
513-423-7960 (OH)
Miniature Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Milly Robertson
172 Kelton Ave.
San Carlos, CA 94070
415-591-9918
Miniature Schnauzer Club of Southern California
Ruth Ziegler
1018 Montego Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90049
213-472-7993
Mt. Vernon Miniature Schnauzer Club
Carol Patterson
800 N. York Rd.
Sterling, VA 22170
703-450-4287
Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Club
Cathy Stone
9 Forest Dr.
Auburn, MA 01501
508-754-8559
Paul Revere Miniature Schnauzer Rescue
Janet Loreck
508-668-2197 (MA)
baylist: 415-591-9918
Schnauzer-Standard
Standard Schnauzer Club of America
Kathy A. Donovan
20-740-8757 (CT)
Potomac Valley Standard Schnauzer
Mrs. Jerry Spellman
2722 Berryland Dr.
Oakton, VA 22124
703-620-5937
Standard Schnauzer Club of Northern California
Mary Lou Just
3758 Hatchers Circle
Stockton, CA 95209
209-473-0323
Ernest Roche
655 Barneson Ave.
San Mateo, CA 94402
Mary Richards
213-454-2369 (CA)
Scottish Deerhound
Scottish Deerhound Club of America
Deborah Day Hughes
517-769-2444 (MI)
or
Elin Phinizy
603-835-6074 (NH)
or
Dorothy Adair
313-633-2114 (NY)
or
Mary Scott
518-792-2330 (NY)
Scottish Terrier
Scottish Terrier Club of America
Mrs. Jackie Seelbach
17 Pine Tree Rd.
Ramsey, NJ 07446
and
Caryl Alten & Dennis Milewski
4601 Woodward Ave
Donwners Grove, IL 60515
708-963-1374
San Francisco Bay Scottish Terrier Club
Peggy Burge
2593 Mt. Pleasant Rd.
San Jose, CA 95122
408-238-2327
Scottish Terrier Rescue
Letty Passig
301-977-9250 (MD)
or
Nancy Burlesdon
703-256-1871
Scottish Terrier Club of California
Sally McElvain
1649 Ninth St.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
213-374-1588
Scottish Terrier Club of New England
Rescue Services
Karen Phillips
11 Miamis Rd.
W. Hartford, CT 06117
203-523-9168
or
603-887-4762 (NH)
or
508-264-4621 (MA)
Scottish Terrier Club of Greater Atlanta
Greg Bobbs
831 Derrydown Way
Decatur, GA 30030
404-373-9526
Scottish Terrier Club of Greater New York
William Berry
3 Sagamore Rd.
Parsippany, NJ 07054 201-227-1871
Scottish Terrier Club of Michigan
Paul DeBene
5757 Belle River Rd.
Imlay City, MI 48444
313-724-0161
Scottish Terrier Emergency Protection Service (STEPS)
Barbara Dominski (coordinator)
61 Cathedral Bluffs Drive
Scarborough, ON M1M 2T6
416-267-3788
Area Rep: Western Canada: Violet Morphet
8603 Kalivista Dr.
Vernon, BC V1B 1K4
604-524-2854
Bill Mark
313-659-6450 (MI)
Barbara Albright
603-887-4762
New Hampshire
baylist: Deborah Knous
3090 Los Prados
San Mateo, CA 94403
Sealyham Terrier
American Sealyham Terrier Club
Daryl Pakkala
919-347-4772
California
Pat Miller
217-877-0245 PA
American Sealyham Terrier Club
M. Thelma Miller
c/o Lindley Rd.
RD #1, Box 90
Canonsburg, PA 15317
217-877-0245
Patsy Wood
215-935-1776
Pennsylvania
Shepherd -see German Shepherd Dog
Shetland Sheepdog
American Shetland Sheepdog Association
Susan Beachum
Idaho
208-773-4256
Call for referrals to local groups.
No. Cal. Shetland Sheepdog Club
Diane Bassett
email: diane_m...@hp4700.desk.hp.com
415-359-5181 (CA)
or
Amy
CA (northern CA)
415-274-3830
Debbie De Nardo Cotter
203-526-4018
Connecticut
Lynne Young
2617 Deepwood Dr.
Wilmington, DE 19810
302-478-8291
Lynne does sheltie rescue in DE, southeast PA,
Northeast MD, and a little NJ, too.
Interlocking Shetland Sheepdog Club of Monee, Inc.
Jane Naden
417 Arlington
Crete, IL 60417
708-672-7258
Riley County Sheltie Rescue (Kansas)
Cheryl May - 913-776-4326
Carolyn Otto- 913-539-0554
Alice Michaels - 913-539-0129
email: cm...@ksu.ksu.edu
Trish
313-522-4663 (MI)
Maribeth McCarthy
Nashua, NH
603-891-2075
help with placements
Shetland Sheepdog Club of Austin
Vonnie Taylor
2206 Galway
Austin, TX 78758
512-834-2201
Sherry Lindsey
P.O. Box 241
Seguin, TX 78156
512-379-4510
Evergreen State Shetland Sheepdog Club
Lynn Erckmann
|| WA
|| 206-827-6595
Shiba Inu -see Japanese Shiba Inu
Shih Tzu
American Shih Tzu Club
Sharon Bilicich
310-831-6992 (CA)
Joyce Deval
313-383-1374 (MI)
Puritan Shih Tzu Club
Bonnie Bean
508-544-8808 (MA)
or
Debora Wheeler
603-267-6157 (NH)
or
Barbara Horsfall (MA)
508-829-2666
referral only
or
Ellen Ruggiero
RI
401-353-1245
(RI service only)
Linda Hammond
VA
703-662-9197
Rosemarie Bogley
VA
703-592-3076
Siberian Husky
Siberian Husky Club of America Rescue Network
Jerry Dalakian, Chairman
83 Oak Grove Rd.
Flemington, NJ 08822
908-782-2089
Barbara Weinstein
415-851-0648 (CA)
Ruth Henningsen
201-697-9456 (northern NJ)
Rosemary Laubach
908-431-1169 (NJ)
Michele Thie
517-546-0514 (MI)
Siberian Husky Club of Hawaii
Cheryl Chang
47-685 Hui Alala St.
Kaneohe, HI 96744
808-239-6693
Susan Herlihy
617-593-7331 (MA)
(referrals only)
Yankee Siberian Husky Rescue Service
Sheila Blanker
413-498-4455
Western MA
Bay Area Siberian Husky Club Rescue (BASH)
Marilyn Lasagne (or Lassange?)
510-820-1162 (CA)
baylist: Andy Gach
1621 Christina Dr.
Las Altos, CA 94022
Siberian Information, Education, Rescue, Rahab,
and Adoption (SIERRA)
908-362-9413 (NY/NJ area)
Ohio's Siberian Husky Rescue
Nancy Wolf
(419)822-4304
Siberian Husky Club of Greater Detroit
Susan Haas
(810)585-7810 MI
Silky Terrier
Richard Hammond Silky Terrier Rescue
Lee Easton
18801 NE Willimason Road
Newberg, OR 97132
503-538-5112
or
Ivy Rogers
656 Santa Maria Road
El Sobrante, CA 94803
510-222-8240
Silky Terrier Club of America
Ms. I.D. Rogers
415-222-8240
California
Rob and Lisa Sanders
602-962-9834
Cover AZ, SouthWest US
Skye Terrier
Skye Terrier Club of Southern California
Dolly Stofer
2095 W. Acacia Rd.
Palm Springs, CA 92262
619-323-0632
Skye Terrier Club of America
Anne Brown
803-726-6678
or
John D. Bower (Past rescue contac?)
HC60 Box 75A
Granville, Mass. 01034
413-357-6104
Smooth Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier
Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier
Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier Club of America
Cindy Meyer
815-544-2481 (IL)
or
Gwen Arthur
713-469-4214 (TX)
Christan Peterson
313-642-5255 (MI)
Delaware Valley Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club
Richard Tomlinson
4428 Province Line Rd.
Princeton, NJ 08540
609-924-1453
The Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Northern California
Sonya Urquhart
775 Wesley Drive
Vacaville, CA 95688
707-446-7494
or
Robyn Alexander
1819 Rose Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
415-526-7948
Pat Sloate
CA
213-661-5055
Anne Halvorson
CA
510-943-1857
Bill Bowman
CA
805-254-8264
baylist: 415-526-7048
Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Club of Metro, N.Y.
Sally and Ray Murtha
149 Berry Hill Rd.
Syosset, NY 11791
516-921-8741
Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier Rescue
P.O. Box # 133
Brampton, Ontario, Canada
L6X 1K4
(905) 770-9831 ext. 22 -> (greater Toronto/Niagara area)
(905) 478-2139 -> (as above)
(416) 783-9346 ext. 44 -> (metro Toronto)
(519) 853-1456 ext. 52 -> (southern Ontario)
Calls preferred between 6 & 9 pm, Eastern time.
Springer Spaniel -see English Springer, Welsh Springer
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club
Tony George
718-898-0298 (NY)
Linda Barker (past chairperson?)
1119 N. Naomi St.
Burbank, CA 91505
818-843-4861
Staffordshire Terrier
Staffordshire Terrier Club of America
Melanie Tierney
315-422-9613 (NY)
Sharon Veci
203-742-9364 (CT)
Standard Schnauzer -see Schnauzer-standard
Sussex Spaniel
Sussex Spaniel Club of America
Joan Dunn
414-646-4114 (WI)
Tibetan Mastiff
Kathy Miller
301-932-1776
Tibetan Spaniel
Tibetan Spaniel Club of America
Phyllis B. Kohler
703-659-3265
VA
Tibetan Terrier
Tibetan Terrier Club of America
Ken Edmonds
404-373-4605
Tosa-Ken
International Tosa-Ken Association
CA
818-768-0691
Toy Fox Terrier
Holly Peterson
508-663-8093 (MA)
Vizsla
Vizsla Club of America
Rick Davis, chairperson
150 Stilla Har Drive
Westminster, SC 29693
803-647-5914
Connecticut Valley Vizsla Club
John Morris
2 Promontory Dr.
Cheshire, CT 06410
Tampa Bay Vizsla Club
Judy Heiser
3541 NW 14th Ave.
Pompano Beach, FL 33064
305-941-9392
Vizsla Club of Northern California
Steve Shlyen
415-566-9289 (CA)
Vizsla Club of Greater New York
Elaine Panebianco
33 Whistler Hill Lane
Huntington, NY 11743
516-266-1602
Sue Gray
508-877-5708 (MA)
Rita Prindle
CO
303-568-9042
baylist: 415-566-9289
Visla Rescue Service
Elaine Hopkins
680 Otonabee Drive
Peterborough, Ontario,
Canada K9J 7P9
705-743-7894 between 9 and 11 pm (EST)
Kay Duffy
CA
818-996-4049 or 818-340-1186
Beverly Wonjon
CA
805-296-9682
Weimaraner
Weimaraner Club of America and the
Weimaraner Club of Greater St. Louis
Rebecca Weimer
324 Sundew Drive
Belleville, IL 62221
618-236-1466
Delaware Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Manser
2040 Kerr Rd.
Harleysville, PA 19438
215-584-0615
Greater Charleston Weimaraner Club
Linda Weick
103 Eagle Dr.
Summerville, SC 29483
803-873-3796
Weimaraner Club of South Florida
Susan Warner
6630 West 13th Court
Hialeah, FL 33012
Western Washington Weimaraner Club
Debra Follensbee
3021 87th Ave., Ct. E.
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-845-2464
John and Chris McLaughlin
508-655-6188 (MA)
Yankee Weimeraner Club
Kathleen Lallemand
10 Timberlee Land
Westford, MA 01886
508-692-2267
or
Ellen O'Leske
508-885-4255
Sacramento Valley Weimaraner Club
Kathy Dunn
13560 Skyline Blvd.
Oakland, CA 94619
415-635-3921
Sylvia Ashton
313-683-4776 (MI)
Karen Mayo
313-475-2296 (MI)
North Texas Weimeraner Club
Becky Wallendal or Suzanne Fourmigue
(214) 242-6983 (214) 350-7168
Welsh Corgi Cardigan
Cardigan Welsh Corgi Club of America Rescue
H. Pamela Allen, chairperson
406 E. Alexandria Avenue
Alexandria, VA 22301
703-836-1963
Maribeth McCarthy
Nashua, NH
603-891-2075
Help with placements
The following are in CA:
Gordon Ervin
408-263-4883
Arleen Rooney
310-830-8126
Morell Lamere
310-394-1897
Mary Greenwood
818-966-2331
Welsh Corgi, Pembroke
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
National Chairperson
Ellen Childs
Town Hill Road
New Hartford, CT 06057
203-379-0668
or
Nancy Brant (rescue committee member)
(also rescue committee person for Ohio Valley PWC Club)
P.O. Box 1032
Delaware, OH 43015
nbr...@osu.edu
Perrine Crampton
102 Arbor Way
Somerville, NJ 08876
Member PWCCGS (Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of the Garden State)
and SCDOC (Somerset County Dog Obedience Club
Editor: PWCCGS Quarterly Newsletter - Corgi Toplines
"Compiler of" PWC Geographical Listing of Rescue Contacts
in New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania
perrine_...@colpal.com
|| Melody Kist
|| 452 Main St, PO Box 456
|| Three Bridges NJ 08887
|| email: mk...@ga55a.attmail.com
|| 908-806-3327
|| Co-Chair of Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of the Garden State
|| Rescue Committee, Vice-president of PWCCGS, Member of
|| Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of America
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Florida
(central and north Florida)
Jean Bates
3707 Edgewater Drive
Orlando, FL 32804
407-298-1945
(west Florida)
Bonnie Hansen
10993 124th Avenue N
Largo, FL 34648
813-585-1221
(east Florida)
Deborah Shindle
3906 Indian River Drive
Vero Beach, FL 32963
407-231-0517
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Rescue League
Hilda W. Lowery
91 Willard Drive
Marietta, GA 30066
404-428-8919
Deanna B. Kuhn, chair
33965 N. Fairfield Rd.
Round Lake, IL 60073
708-546-1739
Mayflower Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club
Rescue Co-Chair
Jane Rainsford
PO Box 74
So. Walpole, MA 02071
508/668-9690
or
Rescue Co-Chair
119 North Lincoln Road
E. Rochester, NY 14445
716/381-0811
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Potomac
Diane Gaskins
1113 Justa Lane
Cockeysville, MD 21030
301-252-8833
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Club of Southern California, Inc.
Meredith Brittain
18393 Buckhorn Rd.
San Bernardino, CA 92407
714-887-5057
Terri Swaim
135 Tall Pine Lane
Ortonville, MI 48462
313-627-3723
Deb Beal
203-535-3913 (CT)
Arleen Rooney
CA
310-830-8126
Golden Gate P.W.C. Fanciers
Sally Howe
CA
408-474-4498
or
Care Committee
Joan Jensen
415-474-4498
P.W.C. club of S. CA
Margaret Stewart
818-842-1431
Maribeth McCarthy
Nashua, NH
603-891-2075
help with placements
Pembroke Welsh Corgi Association of Canada
Ms. Susan O'Heir, National Secretary
25 Nottingham Dr.
Etobicoke, ON M9A 2W4
(416) 234-5431
PWC Rescue, Serving the Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Marcie Stone
Croeso, RR 2
Rockwood, ON NOB 2KO
519-856-2272
Murray Cunningham
Box 183, Vittoria
ON NOE 1WO
519-428-1763
Welsh Terrier
Welsh Terrier Club of America
and Welsh Terrier Cares Rescue Service
Carolyn and Ward Morris
4210 Montview Dr. NW
Atlanta, GA 30305
404-351-1330 (GA)
compuserve: 7022...@compuserve.com
The following are are part of
Welsh Terrier Cares Rescue Service:
Joann N. Adams
11110 E. Shady Lane
Tucson, AZ 85749
602-749-4756
Deborah Jamison
21346 Rumford Drive
Cupertino, CA 95014
408-725-0424
Diane Amendola
20251 Cape Cottage Lane
Huntington Beach, CA 92646
714-536-0867
Roger and Derry Coe
9967 E. Eda Ave.
Englewood, CO 80111
303-721-8021
Pam Price
497 22nd Place
Vero Beach FL 32960
407-569-0561
Rob Savage
1624 Des Plaines
Chicago, IL 60616
312-421-1557
Linda Sutton
19427 W. 167th
Olathe KS 66062
913-764-4542
Lisa Heath
621 W.. Hoover
Ann Arbor, MI 48106
313-665-2417
Elizabeth Leaman
523 Ridgewood Ave.
Glen Ridge NJ 07028
201-744-3732
Ruth Prehn
17240 Rock Creek Road
Thompson, OH 216-298-3036
Lynell Dewey
112 Vancouver
Medford, OR 97504
503-776-3825
Ginny Winters
Airport Rd. RD3 Box 73
Indiana, PA 15701
412-349-1354
Mary Seck
308 Dyer Road
Sanger, TX 76266
817-458-7634
Terry Hoskins
2122 Boxwood Drive
Falls Church, VA 22043
703-533-3864
Doug Hutton
465 Rymal Rd. W.
Hamilton, Ontario
CANADA L9B1B7
416-387-5210
West Highland White Terrier
West Highland White Terrier Club of America
Ann Sanders
1-700-4-Westie (that may be a misprint - maybe it's 1-800?)
West Highland White Terrier Club of Greater Baltimore
Joe and Naomi Engers
807 Prospect Mill Rd.
Bel Air, MD 21014
301-838-6489
West Highland White Terrier Club
of Northern New Jersey
Emilie Schoonover
201-887-9132 (NJ)
West Highland White Terrier Club of California
Susan Porter
328 N. Windsor Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90004
213-463-9113
West Highland White Terrier Club of SE Texas
Linda Wedgeworth
23210 Bright Star
Spring, TX 77373
713-821-9026
William Penn West Highland White Terrier Club
Patti Marks
501 E. Moreland Ave.
Willow Grove, PA 19090
215-657-6085
West Highland White Terrier Club of New England
Beverly Kilinsky
RR1 Box 366
Wakefield Ave.
Webster, MA 01570
508-943-6254
West Highland White Terrier Resuce
Charles Gibson and Nancy Wagner
P.O. Box 1668
Marietta, GA 30061-1668
404-565-6770
San Francisco Bay White West Highland Terrier Club
Pam Evans
3137 Rasmus Circle
San Jose, CA 95148
408-274-8718
Westie Rescue
Nancy Hummitzsch, national chair
Ontario, Canada
519-749-0117
Wheaten Terrier -see Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier
Wire Fox Terrier -see Fox Terrier, Smooth and Wiredn
Whippet
American Whippet Club
Sally deBecque Smith
303-666-9614 (CO)
Kathleen Banks
313-697-2389 (MI)
Southern California Whippet Association
Tom and Ellen Hammatt
24062 Castilla Lane
Mission Viejo, CA 92691
714-770-9881
Western Washington Whippet Association
Leslie Griffith and Paul Winden
8004 NE 120th
Kirkland, WA 98034
206-823-4212
New England Whippet Society
Iva Kimmelman
508-897-8950
413-733-0444 Western Massachusetts
203-264-7990 Connecticut
Whippet Club of Eastern Canada
Lynn Cleary, Rescue Coordinator
R.R. #1
Glen Robertson, ON K0B 1H0
(613) 874-2802
Whippet Rescue
Carol Gregory
4053 Eagle Nest Lane
Danville, CA 94506
510-736-7340
baylist: 408-247-1749
Scott Ekblad
P.O. Box 112
Beavercreek, OR 97004-0112
Ofc (503) 494-5227
Home (503) 632-8569
Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
American Wirehaired Pointing Griffon Associ.
Linda Gagnon
508-544-8933 (MA)
Xoloitzcuintli
Amy Fernandez
718-544-6092
New York
Carol Fernandez
718 788 7576
New York
Yorkshire Terrier
Yorkshire Terrier Club of Nation's Capitol
Marie Huffman (MD)
301-577-0941
Mary Garwood
MD
410-255-3454
Lanter Hall
VA
703-345-3995
Yorkshire Terrier Club of America
Breed Rescue Coordinators
Marcia Knudsen
(612) 345-3726
State: MN
Bluebonnet Yorkshire Terrier Club
Susan Griffin
2712 Dorrington
Dallas, TX 75228
214-320-9469
Yorkshire Terrier Club of Greater Houston
Karen Murnane 4149 Milton St.
Houston, TX 77005-2737
713-665-6866
baylist: Janie Pack
967 Camellia Way
San Jose, CA 95117
Mary Kay Keppler
602-561-1748 (AZ)
email: kepp...@indirect.com
Southwest U.S.
___________________________________________________________________
All breed and associated organizations
Coonhounds (Black and Tan, Bluetick, English, Plott Hound, Redbone
Coonhound, Treeing Walker Coonhound)
Ruth Clark
303-646-0208 (CO - referral)
Sighthounds: Connecticut Sighthound Club
Kathy Budney 203-666-0649 Connecticut
Linda Garwacki 413-566-3847 Western Massachusetts
(Afghan, Basenji, Borzoi, Greyhound, Ibizan Hound,
Irish Wolfhound, Pharoah Hound, Saluki, Scottish
Deerhound, Whippet)
Sighthound Rescue
415-851-7812 or 415-924-7020 (CA)
Terriers Robert Cowell 203-334-3025 Connecticut
(referral only on all Terrier breeds and Golden Retrievers)
Toys Sandy Rinder 212-475-8479 New York
(dogs under 10 lbs, especially Maltese and Poodles)
Toy Breed Rescue Referrals
415-952-6520 (CA)
Wolf Hybrid North American Wolf/Wolf Hybrid Rescue Network, Inc.
Sandy Williams 609-627-1186 New Jersey
Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
P.O. Box 3523
Redmond, WA 98073
206-654-1117 (this is *quite* a great org.)
Coalition of All Breed Rescue of Arizona (CABRA)
602-494-9567
Cutler's Canine Companions/Purebred Dog Rescue of St. Louis
Debbie Cutler
314-949-0180 or 314-957-DOGS (MO)
or
Debbie Hogland
314-544-023
Buddy Dog Humane Society (no-kill shelter)
Boston Post Road
Sudbury, MA 01776
508-443-6990
617-237-4747 (Wellesley exchange)
Baypath Humane Society
(no-kill shelter, nice place)
Hopkington, MA
508-435-6938
Best Friends Animal Sanctuary
P.O. Box G
Kanab, UT 84741
801-644-2001
Purebred Rescue Association of Michigan
5188 Winchester Pass
Lapeer, MI 48446
(list of Michigan rescue organization available upon request)
Megen Veen, President
|| 810-664-9800 (days)
|| 810-664-2548 (after 8:30 p.m.)
SF Bay Area Canine Rescue
415-851-7812 or 415-591-9918 (CA)
CARE Companion Animal Rescue Effort
408-227-CARE (CA)
East Bay Animal Refferal
415-841-PAWS (CA)
Friends of the Fairmont Animal Shelter
510-357-2487 (CA)
Friends of Strays
2911 47th Ave. North
St. Petersburg, FL 33714
813-522-6566
Hayward Friends of Animals
510 886-7546 (CA)
Nike Animal Rescue Foundation
408-224-6273 (CA)
Boston Humane Society
P.O. Box 520
Barre, MA 01005
508-755-1117
(A no-kill shelter)
Pet Finders
415-566-1045 (CA)
Pets & Pals
415-775-5881 (CA)
Pets in Need
415-367-1405 (CA)
Pets Unlimited
415-563-6700 (CA)
Dial-A-Pet (AZ only)
602-276-PETS, from 9-5:30 M-F, 9-4:30 Sat/Sun.
This group takes info about you and the breed you
want, finds the breed you're looking for in local
pounds and breed rescues in Arizona.
All Breed Rescue Association (ABRA)
713-342-3078 Houston, TX only
All Breed Rescue Network of Colorado
Bonnie Guzman
303-733-4220 (CO only)
All-Breed Rescue Network/Clearinghouse (Maryland only)
202-244-0065 (long-distance phone calls will
be returned, COLLECT)
Cascade Animal Protection Society
Arlou Hunter
31849 Pacific Hwy S #112
Federal Way, WA 98003
Muttmatchers Messenger/Humane Animal Rescue Team
Suzanne Kane
P.O. Box 1165
Enumclaw, WA 98022
206-825-0741
Homeless Pet Placement League, Inc.
P.O. Box 273027
Houston, TX 77277
713-862-7387
Humane Animal Rescue Team
national office
P.O. Box 920
Fillmore, CA 93016
805-524-4542
Concern for Animals
Tenino, WA
206-264-2839
Haven on Earth
Companion Animal Rescue and Referral (cats and dogs)
Libby McGreevy
San Bruno, CA (Northern California)
415/952-1765
li...@ucsfvm.ucsf.edu
Paws & Claws
Gloria 206-845-1424 (WA)
Kathy 206-531-8349
Equal Rights Animal Society
P.O. Box 1572
Puyallup, WA 98371
206-863-3933
Whidbey Animal Improvement Foundation
1254 W. Pioneer Way #238
Oak Harbor, WA 98277
206-678-3722
206-321-5111
206-679-2731
Hooterville Pets
Woodinville, WA
206-488-4444
" Rescues & places large shaggy dogs, particularly
Old English Sheepdog mixes"
Jack Wilhelm
206-771-7349
Large Breed Rescue
Bill Brookings
Lawton, OK
bi...@cuok.cameron.edu
"We also will rescue any big breed dog that is [deemed
adoptable, ed.] within 2 hours drive around us .... so
that would cover Oklahoma City, Wichita Falls areas."
Save-A-Pet, Inc.
2019 Rand Rd.
Palatine IL 60067
(708)934-7788
Adopt-A-Pet, Inc.
Irene: (908) 780-9706
Lee: (908) 462-6576
Sharon: (908) 462-5184 (NJ)
Animal Rescue Force, Inc.
(908) 257-7559 (NJ)
North American Purebred Dog Rescue
Judith A. Tjosvold
9436 - 184th St.
Surrey, BC V4N 3T5
604-822-1026
HART (Homeless Animals Rescue Team)
HART is a charitable organization that gives the general
public an alternative to animal shelters. The onwer is asked
to maintain their pet in their home as long as possible while
the animal is advertised and a new owner found. A home check
and contract are mandatory for adopters.
P.O. Box 7261
Fairfax Station, VA 22039
703-691-HART
Animals' Guardian Angels
301-870-6463 (MD)
Animal Trustees of Austin (ATA) (TX)
WHO IS ATA? Animal Trustees of Austin, Inc. was founded by concerned
citizens desiring to help lost, abused, and abandoned animals in Travis
County. A 501 (c) 3 tax-exempt non-profit organization, ATA was created
exclusively fo the charitable and educational purpose of representing and
protecting animals. Current ATA projects include the rescue and
re-homing of dogs and cats who are about to be euthanized at the
municipal shelter. Please call us at 512-327-5487 if you have any
questions, or would like to volunteer your services to our cause.
Carolyn Edison
9913 Ledgestone Terrace
Austin, TX 78737
512-288-4248
Linda Brescia
Canton, CT
203-693-9672
Dee Dinneen
Massachusetts
508-342-1100 days
508-827-1341 (evenings)
d...@iii.net
Placements only, all breeds
Alyeska Canine Trainers
Pat Bouschor
5201 Rabbit Creek Rd.
Anchorage, AK 99516
907-345-1506
Atlanta Kennel Club
Dolores Russell
c/o 2441 Old Field Rd., NW
Atlanta, GA 30327
404-296-7126
Channel City Kennel Club
Cheryl Reynolds
4280 Carpinteria Ave.
Carpinteria, CA 93013
805-648-4914
Conyers Kennel Club of Georgia
Jackie Dilworth
570 Clubhouse Dr.
Conyers, GA 30208
404-922-4151
Imperial Valley Kennel Club
D. Michael Burk
2560 Hwy. 111
Imperial, CA 92251-9768
619-355-1270
Jacksonville DFA
Betty Jean Shuman
P.O. Box 1232
Jacksonville, FL 32201
904-733-1907
Karen Howell 605-627-5668 (SD)
Kathy Theisen
313-261-4712 (MI)
Kona Coast Kennel Club
Kathy Miller
P.O. Box 1951
Kamuela, HI 96743
808-885-4118
Lower Bucks Dog Training Club
Joe Egan
18 Quail Rd.
Levittown, PA 19057
215-949-1204
Marion-Alachua Dog Training Association
Janice Rodgers
Rt. 1, Box 470
Citra, FL 32675
904-591-1773
Onondaga Kennel Association
Jacqueline Karpinski
Young Rd.
Syracuse, NY 13512
315-492-9521
Rhode Island Kennel Club
Claudia Gaulin
120 Mirick Ave.
Cranston, RI 02920
401-944-5042
Trap Falls Kennel Club
Lilian Schneider
20 Cheryl Drive
Monroe, CT 06468
203-261-2503
SPCA of Northern Virginia
703-799-9390
Works with dogs and cats, sometimes rabbits and birds, too.
Animals are vetted, then fostered. (Not kept in one holding
facility)
Fort Saskatchewan and Area Canine Association
Lori-Ann Rice, Secretary
Box 3224
Fort Saskatchewan, AB T8L 2T2
(403) 998-0758
Grey-Bruce Kennel and Obedience Club Inc.
Ms. Mary Morris, Secretary
P.O. Box 481
Owen Sound, ON N4K 5P7
(519) 376-0401
British Columbia All Terrier Club
Sue Cairns, Corresponding Secretary
P.O. Box 2491
Vancouver, BC V6B 2W7
(604) 538-1270
_______________________________________________________________________
Cindy Tittle Moore
URL: http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/resources.html
Last-modified: 12 Sep 1995
=======
There are over 50 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
listing of these, get the "Complete List of RPD FAQs". This article
is posted bimonthly in rec.pets.dogs, and is available via anonymous ftp
to rtfm.mit.edu under pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list, via
the Web at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/lists/faq-list.html, or via
email by sending your message to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu with
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/faq-list
in the body of the message.
This article is Copyright (c) 1995 by the Author(s) listed below.
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
alteration provided that this copyright notice is not removed.
It may NOT reside at another website (use links, please) other
than the URL listed above without the permission of the Author(s).
This article may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in other
documents without he Author(s)'s permission and is provided "as is"
without express or implied warranty.
==========
RESOURCES
Author
Cindy Tittle Moore, Copyright 1995.
Table of Contents
* Catalogues & Mail-order Companies
* Magazines
* Organizations
_________________________________________________________________
Catalogues & Mail-order Companies
I can make no statement about any of these companies or their
products. In particular, no endorsement by me of any particular mail
order company by me is implied herein. If you have any comments or
corrections, I will note them here along with the date. The accuracy
of any address or phone number is not guaranteed, but if a date is
present, it indicates when it was last verified.
4-M Enterprises, Inc.
1280 Pacific Street
Union City, CA 94587
tel: 510-489-8722 (office)
1-800-487-9867 (orders)
fax: 510-489-8331
phenomenal selection of dog books.
Acme Machine Co. ADANAK Sleds and Equipment
2901 Freemont Ave. South 4108 Hywy 93 N
Minneapolis, MN 55408 Kalispell, MT 59901
tel: 1-800-332-2472, 612-827-3571 tel: 406-752-2929
fax: 612-827-8905 Sledding equpment
obedience supplies, including a dumbbell
with a nylabone dowel
Alpine
955 Mass Ave. #314
Cambridge, MA 02139
tel: 800-424-7463
free catalogue, collars and leads
Alpine Publications, Inc. America's Pet Door Store (1/93)
233 South Madison Avenue Patio Pacific Inc., Dept. 7
P.O. Box 7027 1931-C N. Gaffey St.
Loveland, Colorado 80537 San Pedro, CA 90731
tel: 1-800-777-7257 orders only, tel: 1-800-826-2871
970-667-2017 customer service wide variety of pet doors
books ships US-wide
Animal Management, Inc.
720 Eppley Road
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055-9786
tel: 1-800-745-8173
Email: AM...@aol.com
*live traps *odor control *nets
*carriers *restraint modules *gloves *animal
control poles *etc
Animals Etc. (1.93) Animal Town, Inc.
PO Box 2720-166 P.O. Box 1710
Huntington Beach, CA 92647 El Cajon, CA 92022
tel: 714-964-9906 dog, cat, fish, bird &
animal statuary -- many hard to find small animal pet supplies
breeds and colors, excellent quality
AVP (1/93)
Box 1326
Galesburg, IL 61402
free catalogue, pet care products
Bedford Farms/Black Ice Beef Rawhide
11225 County Road 20 P.O. Box 1210
Delano, Minnesota 55328 Riverdale, NY 10471-1210
tel: 612-955-2505 tel: 1-800-836-2333
sledding supplies, rawhides -- very good quality
excellent harnesses and prices
Care-A-Lot Pet Supply Warehouse (1/93) Cherrybrook (3/94)
1617 Diamond Springs Road Route 57, P.O. Box 15
Virginia Beach, Virginia 23455 Broadway, New Jersey 08808
tel: 1-800-343-7680 outside Virginia, tel: 1-800-524-0820 outside NJ,
804-460-9771 within Virginia 201-689-7979 in NJ
staffed: m-f 9 am - 6:30 pm, fax: 201-689-7988
sat 10 am - 5 pm, EST general dog and cat supplies
fax: 804-460-0317
general dog and cat supplies, some tools
Color Critters Custom Statuary (1.93) Companion Pet (3/94)
PO Box 4158 5345 Bridge Road
West Covina, CA 91791 PO Box 135
tel: 818-918-6724 McNaughton, WI 54543
makes breed statues -- many breeds or tel: 800-442-PETS
will custom make. $5 catalogue, refunded discounted supplies, free catalog
with first order
The Corgi Shop (11/93)
PO Box 1500
125 South Main Street
Lanesboro, MA 01237
tel: 413-499-9939
corgi-related items
Custom Dog Supplies Custom Needlework Designs (1/93)
3531 East Winesap Box 9
Salt Lake City, UT 84121-4524 Oreland, PA 19075
tel: 801-942-2206 tel: 1-800-767-6313
needlework created from photos
Cycle Guide to America's Dogs Denlinger's Publishers, LTD
Quaker Professional Services PO Box 76
Cycle Dog Chart Fairfax, VA 22030
585 Hawthorn Ct. tel: 703-830-4646
Galesburg, IL 61401 fax: 703-830-5303
a 25"X38" poster depicting all 137 books
AKC-recognized breeds, folded or rolled
Direct Book Service (7/94) Dog Goods Ltd.
Dog & Cat Book Catalog 1-800-736-4746
8 Summercreek Place free catalog, leather leashes
PO Box 3073 collars, harnesses, etc.
Wenatchee, WA 98807
tel: 1-800-776-2665 (orders, 24hrs)
509-663-9115 (customer service)
staffed 8-5 M-F, PST
fax: 1-509-662-7233
dog books, including out-of-print
books; very complete; book searches
Econoseal Pet Doors (1/93) Econo Vet
5214 W. Luke, Suite 8 tel: 800-451-4162
Glendale, AZ 85301 excellent vaccine prices
tel: 800-4444-9499
weatherproof pet doors
The Farmacy, In. (4/94) Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc. (3/94)
70 Jones Road 2253 Air Park Road
Myrtle Beach, SC 29577 P.O. Box 100
tel: 803-236-4980 Rhinelander, WI 54501-0100
800-733-4981 tel: 800-826-7206
among other things, sells pet supplies, large discounts,
emergency bloat kits free catalog
health related dog supplies, small
company
Goldrusk Pet Care Center Good Vibrations
1991 Allouez Avenue Box 317
Green Bay, WI 54311 Englishtown Rd.
tel: 414-468-7956 Old Bridge, NJ 08857
908-251-5959
T's, sweats, 165+ breeds,
free catalogue
Hale Security Pet Door (3/94) Horst Company (3/94)
5622 N. 52nd Ave. Suite 4 101 East 18th Street
Glendale, AZ 85301 Greeley, CO 80631
tel: 800-888-8914 tel: 970-353-7724
energy efficient, secure double flap fax: 970-353-7774
doors, eleven sizes plus custom fit kennels, standard and custom
free brochure construction, free brochure
Howell Book House (1/93)
866 Third Avenue
New York, NY 10022
tel: 1-800-257-5755, 212-702-3424
IKON Outfitters LTD. Innotek Pet Products, Inc. (3/94)
7597 Latham Road 1-800-826-5527
Lodi, Wisconsin 53555 electronic containment systems,
tel: 608-592-4397 anti-bark collars, training
staffed: m-f 8-5, central time collars, etc.
sleds, sledding and carting supplies,
backpacks
Invisible Fencing JB Pet Supplies (3/94)
724 West Lancaster Ave. 5 Raritan Road
Wayne, Pennsylvania 1908 Oakland, NJ 07436
tel: 215-964-0600 tel: 800-526-0388
free catalog, assorted supplies
Jeffers Vet Supply (3/94) J and J Dog Supplies
PO Box 948 PO Box 1517
West Plains, MO 65775 and Galesburg, IL 61402
PO Box 100 tel: 800-642-2050
Dothan, AL 36302 obedience supplies, free catalog
tel: 800-JEFFERS
pet supply products, free catalog
Johnson Pet Door Company (4/94)
320 Graves Avenue
Oxnard, CA 93030
tel: 805-988-4800
K-9 Carts (3/94) Kaleb's Kart Co. (1/95)
532 Newtown Rd. W5770 Wildwood Rd
Berwyn, PA 19312 Neilsville, WI 54456
tel: 215-644-6624 tel: 715-743-3864
carts for paralyzed or amputated dogs skijoring equipment
Kennel Vet (1/93) Kicksled USA
Box 835 Old Route 16
Bellmore Ny 11710 Center Ossipee, NH 03814
tel: 516-783-5400 tel: 800-621-2636
vaccines, crates, books, toys, lightweight dog sleds for training
etc -- free catalogue and familly fun
Konari Outfitters Lakeshore Artisans, Inc. (1/93)
P.O. Box 752 PO Box 160
52 Seymour St. Belgium, WI 53004-0160
Middlebury, VT 05753 tel: 414-285-3160
tel: 802-388-7447 100+ breeds: note paper, plaques,
variety of outdoor/dog supplies, T's, sweats, mugs, etc.
sledding harnesses, backpacks, etc $1 catalogue & breed sample
Leerburg Video Production Long Run Kennels
P.O. Box 218 P.O. Box 1475
Menomonie, Wisconsin 54751 Charlestown, RI 02813
tel: 715-235-6502 tel: 1-800-365-6936
staffed: 24hrs/7days/week
general pet supplies,
$30 minimum order.
Mail Order Pet Shop (3/94)
1338 N. Market Blvd
Sacramento, CA 95834 or
250 W. Executive Dr.
Edgewood, NY 11717
free catalog, full line of supplies
Martha's Vineyard (9/92) Master Animal Care (2/94)
(in Massachusetts) Division of Humbold Industries Inc
tel: 508-693-1991 Lake Road, PO Box 3333
fax: 508-693-6438 Mountaintop, PA 18707-0330
Catalogue includes a "black dog" tel: 1-800-346-0749
theme, food bowls, caps, sweatshirts,
etc (dog looks like a labrador)
Mason Kennels (3/94) Max 200 (3/94)
260 Depot Street tel: 800-HI-MAX200
Leesburg, OH 45135 free catalog, obedience equipment,
tel: 800-543-5567 good prices, good equipment
free catalog, standard and custom
kennels and dog runs.
Multipet Pty. Ltd.
PO Box 35347
Northway, 4065 South Africa
distributor for TFH Publications
in South Africa
Natural Animal (3/94)
PO Box 1177
St. Augustine, FL 32085
tel: 800-274-7387
environmentally safe products, free catalog
New England Serum Company (3/94) NH Northern (3/94)
US Route 1 PO Box #1219
Topsfield, MA 01983 Burnsville, MN 55337-0219
tel: 1-800-NE-SERUM (us/canada) tel: 800-533-5545
grooming supplies, toys, crates, fax: 612-894-0083
xpens and mats, excellent discounts free catalog, handyman type
especially in bulk pet care products
Nordkyn Outfitters Omaha Vaccine Company
PO Box 1023 Best Care Catalogue
Graham, WA 98338-1023 3030 "L" Street PO Box 7228
tel: 206-847-4128 Omaha, Nebraska 68107
sledding and weight pulling supplies tel: 1-800-367-4444
staffed 7-6 M-F, 8-noon Sat CST
The Patch Place Patch Werks
2010 E. Wren St. K. Sours
Peoria Heights, IL 61614 3821 N. Charter Oak Rd.
for patches with titles Peoria, IL 61615
custom patches
Pegasus Originals, Inc.
129 Minnie Fallaw Rd.
Lexington, SC 29073
(800)845-2427
all kinds of cross-stich patterns of dogs,
individual breed head studies also available
Pedigrees (7/94) Penguin USA
1989 Transit Way Box 120
Box 905 Bergenfield, NJ 07621-0120
Brockport, NY 14420-0905 tel: 1-800-526-0275 orders
tel: 716-637-1431 orders staffed 9-4 M-F EST
800-272-0234 service 1-800-331-4624 cust. service
staffed: M-F 8-7:30, 9-1 Sat EST staffed 9-4:30 M-F EST
general dog and cat supplies; fax: 1-800-227-9604
pet-related gift items 201-385-6521
a front for RC Steele, not telex: 13-5329
subject to the $50 minimum order pet books
(more expensive)
Personalized Canine Checks (1/93) Pet Ability (6/94)
Kansas Bank Note Co. PO Box 23366
Fifth & Jefferson Milwaukee, WI 53223
PO Box 360 tel: 800-554-9902
Fredonia, KS 66736 pet supplies, no catalogue
316-378-3026
free brochure; 140+ breeds
The Pet Book Shop Pet Ramp, Inc. (3/94)
PO Box 507 4727 Lawrenceville Hwy
Oyster Bay, NY 11771 Tucker, GA 30084
tel: 516-922-1169 tel: 404-934-1053
carpeted, portable ramps for small
heavy, aged, injured, etc., pets
Pet Doors USA (1/93) Pet Warehouse (3/94)
4523 30th St. W. PO Box 310
Bradenton, FL 34207 Xenia, OH 4542
tel: 1-800-749-9609 tel: 800-443-1160
free catalogue free catalog, pet supplies
Posh Pups of Venice Beach (7/94) Premier Pet Products
313 Ocean Front Walk 2406 Krossridge Road
Venice, CA 90291 Richmond, VA 23236
tel: 800-347-0567 tel: 800-933-5595
distinctive dog hats, clothing and wholesale only
accessories. send SASE for brochure.
Pro Kennel Supply (1/93) ProRein & Lead Inc.
P.O. Box 25226 P.O. Box 2568
Little Rock, AR 72221 Melbourne, FL 32903 USA
tel: 1-800-762-7049 tel: 407-984-1330
staffed M-Sa 7-9, central time fax: 407-723-8639
for the hunting kennel email: pro...@iu.net
web: http://iu.net/prorein
Handcrafted canine leads and
handling equipment
Ray Allen Mfg Co. Inc. Remembrance Memorials
PO Box 9281 James Cuddeback
Colorado Springs, CO 80932-0281 1379 Burcham
tel: 800-444-0404 orders East Lansing, Michigan 48823
719-633-0404 cust. service E-Mail ab...@leo.nmc.edu
working dog supplies (schutzhund, Handcrafted earth urns (for remains)
,
obed.ring, etc.) tiles of remembrance
(home/garden/office)
Inquire for more information.
Rae's Harness Shop RC Steele (1/93)
1524 E. Dowling Rd. 1989 Transit Way
Anchorage, Alaska 99507 Box 910
tel: 1-800-594-2262 Brockport, NY 14420-0910
Sled dog supplies tel: 1-800-872-3773 to order,
1-800-424-2205 in canada,
Solo Pet Door (3/94) 1-716-637-1408 local
10431 Lemon Ave. Suite D123 staffed M-F 8-7:30,
Alta Loma, CA 91737 Sat 9-1, EST
tel: 909-989-9999 fax: 1-716-637-8244
electronic pet doors wide array of pet supplies,
for both dogs and cats any size
good prices, $50 minimum order
Sheltie Specialties, etc. Springer (3/94)
6711 Shamrock Glen Allenfarm
Middleton, WI 53562 1627 Union Street
(608) 836-5033 Bangor, ME 04401
Catalog full of sheltie items. tel: 800-BIKE-K9s
bike attachment for safely
exercising dog, $49.95
Rover Vinyl-Tech Industries (3/94) Sound Dog Productions
20 Kiji Dava PO Box 27488
Sundog Industrial Park Seattle, WA 98125-2488
Prescott, AZ 86301 tel: 1-206-547-7877
tel: 800-658-5925
fax: 602-776-7001
safe barrier gates to block
doorways, etc, plus dog beds
free brochure
Tails X-press (7/93) T.F.H. Publications, Inc. (1/93)
974 Terminal Way P.O. Box 27
San Carlos, CA 94070 Neptune, NJ 07753
tel: 1-415-347-0144 (service) tel: 201-988-8400
wide variety of dog stuff, not books
discounted, some unusual things
Tun-Dra Outfitters UPCO (3/94)
16438-96th Ave. PO Box 969
Nunica, Michigan 49448 St. Joseph, MO 64502
tel: 616-837-9726 tel: 800-444-8651
staffed: M-Sa 9-7, Su 1-5 fax: 816-233-9696?
sledding and etc. supplies free catalogue, pet care items
Valley Vet Supply (3/94)
PO Box 504
Marysville, KS 66508
tel: 800-531-2390
free catalog and variety of supplies
Wholesale Pet USA Wooly Woofers (5/94)
975 Ford Street 53 Oakland St.
Colorado Springs, CO 80915-3760 Fall River, MA 02720
tel: 1-800-444-0404 orders, tel:
staffed M-F 8-5 Sa 8-noon notecards, prints, transfers
fax: 1-719-380-9730 send SASE & breed for sample
general dog supplies; some cat
and small animal products
Working Breeds, Etc. (1/93) Yuppie Puppy Pet Care, Inc
4739 Bonnie Branch Road New York, NY 10010
Ellicott City, MD 21043 tel: 212-877-2747
equipment for obedience, K-9
and Schutzhund
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Magazines
Anthrozoo:s
A somewhat scholarly multidisciplinary
journal that focuses on the role of pet
animals in our lives and in our world.
AKC Hunting Test Herald (8/92) The Canine Chronicle (9/92)
Robin Rolt, Editor Court Square Tower
372 Wildwood Ave. 605 Second Avenue N. Suite 203
Worcester, MA 01603 Columbus, MS 39701
508-798-2386 601-327-1124
A new magazine, free sample 601-327-9750 fax
available on request. For retrievers, $55 6 months, $80 1y, $135 2y
pointers and spaniels. monthly
Dog Fancy (3/94) Dogsports (3/94)
Subscription Department tel: 307-358-1000
PO Box 53264 opinionated editorials, otherwise
Boulder, Colorado 80323-3264 good articles on Schutzhund, ring
tel: 303-786-7306 sport, police work, SAR, etc
general dog magazine.
$23 for 12 issues a year
Dog World DSM PUBLISHING, INC.
PO Box 6500 (Dog Sports Magazine,
Chicago, IL 60680 K-9 Product News,
tel: 1-800-247-8080 Sea Meadow Products Co.)
dog magazine; overseas orders acceptable 940 Tyler Street, Studio 17
Benicia, CA 94510-2916 / USA
tel: 1-707-745-6897
fax: 1-707-745-4581
Front and Finish (3/94) Good Dog! (3/94)
P.O. Box 333 PO Box 31292
Galesburg, IL 61402-0333 Charleston, SC 29417
tel: 309-344-1333 tel: 1-800-968-1738
AKC-Obedience related information goodd...@aol.com
newspaper format $14.95/6 issues/year
product reviews and topical
columns. free samples available
Gun Dog
PO Box 343
Mt. Morris, IL 61054-0343
tel: 1-800-435-0715
Mushing Northeast Canine Companion
P.O. Box 149 P.O. Box 357
Ester, AK 99725-0149 Sudbury,MA 01776
This is an all season international canine club and magazine for
magazine for dog driving sports. folks in the NE US area
The Pointing Dog Journal Purebred Dogs/American
PO Box 936 Kennel Gazette (1/93)
Manitowoc, WI 54221-0936 5580 Centerview Dr., Suite 200
tel: 1-800-333-POINT Raleigh NC 27606-0643
overseas subscriptions accepted tel: 1-919-233-9780
all pointing breeds official AKC publication, lists
all AKC-approved shows & contains
variety of articles
the Shepherd's Dogge
Quarterly Journal of the Border Collie
Box 843
Ithaca, NY 14851-0843
tel 607-659-5868
$15/year, 4 issues
sheepdog culture & lore,
historic & contemporary
The Ranch Dog Trainer (7/93) TNT (1/93)
Route 2, Box 333 D-McG Publications
West Plains, MO 65775 8848 Beverly Hills
herding issues, etc. Lakeland, FL 33809
tel: 813-858-3839
magazine devoted to dogs in the
Toy Group
SHEEP! Magazine Today's Breeder
Rt. 1 PO Box 3427
Helenville WI 53137 Cincinatti, OH 45201
sheep herding
The Working Border Collie, Inc.
14933 Kirkwood Road
Sidney, Ohio 45365
tel: 513-492-2215
bimonthly on herding issues
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Organizations
American Boarding Kennel Association American Dog Owners Association
4575 Galley Rd., Suite 400A 1654 Columbia Turnpike
Colorado Springs, CO 80915 Castleton, New York 12033
tel: 719-591-1113 bimonthly newsletter; works to
promote responsible dog-ownership
and fights anti-dog legislation
American Humane Association American Kennel Association
5351 S. Roslyn Street American Kennel Towers
Englewood, Colorado 80111. PO Box 992
tel: 303-779-1400 Wilmington, DE 19889
an all breed canine registry
American Mixed Breed Obedience Registry
205 1st Street, S.W.
New Prague, MN 56071
parent breed club for mixed breeds
in the United Kennel club
American Rare Breed Association Canine Defense Fund
PO Box 76426 contributions used strictly to
Washington, DC 20013 fund legal battles against anti
202-722-1232 dog legislation
Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF) Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America
South Campus Courts C c/o Phyllis Massa
Purdue University 1937 Seven Pines
West Lafayette, IN 47906 Creve Coeur, MO 63146
United States offers obedience titles of their
own (registered dogs must be
neutered).
National Association of Dog National Association of
Obedience Instructors (NADOI, Inc.) Pet Sitters
Peggy Prudden, Sec'y 632 Holly Ave.
PO Box 432 Winston Salem, NC 27101
Landing, NJ 07850 tel: 919-723-PETS
National Dog Registry (NDR) New England Obedience News
PO Box 116 70 Medford Street
Woodstock NY 12498 Chicopee, MA 01020
tel: 1-800-NDR-DOGS offers All American Obedience
titles; similar to AKC rules;
open to mixed breeds
Tattoo-A-Pet (TAP) The Wolf Society of Great Britain
1625 Emmons Ave. Prospect House
Brooklyn, NY 11235 Charlton
tel: 1-800-TATTOOS Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN
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Resources FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-...@netcom.com