Tony
It's normally £20/month to join, best bet is to come along one wednesday
evening open night and you'll get the tour and maybe signed up.
Inductions are usually provided free by people who're experienced with
the machines.
Steve
Sen wrote:
> Can I ask what the cost to join and undertake an induction would be?
>
> I am experienced in 3D printing and have had a laser cutter induction at
> Createspace London...
>
> On Thursday, 14 June 2018 15:59:12 UTC+1, Tony Short wrote:
>
> Unfortunately our machines are only usable by members who have done
> the appropriate inductions for the space and the tools they wish to use.
>
> Tony
>
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Steve is almost right, but its actually a suggested donation of £25 a month.Induction to the space is an hour. The vac former doesn't have an induction as no one really uses it, but there is a manual to look at.Other machines have inductions that vary in length from 15mins to 3 hours.T
On Thursday, 14 June 2018 17:27:14 UTC+1, Steve wrote:
It's normally £20/month to join, best bet is to come along one wednesday
evening open night and you'll get the tour and maybe signed up.
Inductions are usually provided free by people who're experienced with
the machines.
Steve
Sen wrote:
> Can I ask what the cost to join and undertake an induction would be?
>
> I am experienced in 3D printing and have had a laser cutter induction at
> Createspace London...
>
> On Thursday, 14 June 2018 15:59:12 UTC+1, Tony Short wrote:
>
> Unfortunately our machines are only usable by members who have done
> the appropriate inductions for the space and the tools they wish to use.
>
> Tony
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "rLab / Reading's Hackspace" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to reading-hacksp...@googlegroups.com
I am not clear from Tony's post whether we are free to read the manual and work things out for ourselves (possibly developing an induction along the way) or whether we need to wait for someone who knows how to use the machine (to my knowledge that is Ian and/or Andy) to develop an induction and then attend that.
If we are able to work things out for ourselves, I can meet you at rLab but not until a week on Saturday (22 June).
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IF you use ABS, rather than PLA, and don’t leave it hanging about, it should be fine.
Melting isn’t the problem – any time spent over the glass transition temperature of the plastic will cause it to gently sag or ease into any forces acting on it.
IF you 3D print the former in ABS, with multiple perimeter walls for some thermal inertia, and you can even pop it in the fridge before use, it all serves to ensure the former stays rigid and can serve more than one use.
When removing the newly vac formed plastic, this is the moment the former is most likely to be a little soft. Carefully remove it with a metal spatula, and pop it somewhere to cool down.
Alex Gibson
+44 7813 810 765 @alexgibson3d 37 Royal Avenue, Reading RG31 4UR
admg consulting
edumaker limited
· Project management
· Operations & Process improvement
· 3D Printing
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Alternative way to make a former:
Use the shapeoko, and CNC mill it from insulation board. I have some spare chunks of ~75mm thick celotex if you want to try. The Shapeoko will cut this like butter and very precisely if tuned right. As this is a very low resistance, you should be able to get away with one small tool, saving much (but not all) of the complexity of generating a toolpath. Fusion 360 seems to be the ‘in’ toolpath generator, not that I have used it myself yet.
Cheers.
Alex Gibson
+44 7813 810 765 @alexgibson3d 37 Royal Avenue, Reading RG31 4UR
admg consulting
edumaker limited
· Project management
· Operations & Process improvement
· 3D Printing
From: vet...@gmail.com [mailto:vet...@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Ian Petrie
Sent: 15 June 2018 14:15
To: Reading Hackspace
Subject: Re: [RDG-Hack] Re: Using the rLab vacuum former
If you are only pulling thin plastic then I doubt there would be enough heat in the material to damage the mould. A spray of release - WD40? - should stop local sticking.
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Here’s a fun video on building your own vacuum forming machine
Towards the end of the video there is a half-second clip of the guy vacuum forming using a 3D printed form. He makes the comment that you shouldn’t use materials that will melt –but the forming process clearly worked.
I wonder whether his DIY forming ‘machine’ might not have some advantages from the specific point of view of using a 3D print as a former – as he has to remove the hot plastic sheet from an oven and place it on his vacuum table, the only source of heat is the plastic sheet itself – there’s no heat soak in the tool.
The vacuum table looks easy enough to make, so if your 3D printed formers don’t fare too well in the thermoforming machine itself, you could just use it to heat the sheet and transfer to a DIY vacuum table?
Cheers,
Alex Gibson
+44 7813 810 765 @alexgibson3d 37 Royal Avenue, Reading RG31 4UR
admg consulting
edumaker limited
· Project management
· Operations & Process improvement
· 3D Printing
From: reading-...@googlegroups.com [mailto:reading-...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Robson
Sent: 15 June 2018 15:01
To: reading-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RDG-Hack] Re: Using the rLab vacuum former
It is an interesting idea - try it and see. I suppose the vacuum former machine is unlikely to be damaged, a worst-case scenario is a gooey useless mess of materials.
Mark