Very thin binding posts

[Fe]

Hi all,

I am looking to make some of these screw rivets/binding posts/interscrews (there are many names for this type of thing depending on what industry it comes from). I can find larger ones online but this small diameter of barrel is seemingly not produced. I was recommended to post here by some lovely members this evening in the hopes that more knowledgeable ​people would be able to weigh in on how would be best to go about making these? The specifications are 2.25mm outside barrel diameter, with a 3.8mm flat head (no screw slots) with a 1.55mm thread screw diameter. We don't need it to be this exact sizing, but close (which ever way is easier) and am open to suggestions of alternate ways of possibly making this without copying the exact design (eg threaded rod + 2 screws is one we've thought of) as long as it will be secure and the barrel is round as it will be a pivot point. The photos below show a vintage version in brass, but other reasonable materials would be fine.

Thank you very much, 

Fé

[Fe]

Apparently the pictures broke... lets try again

[Arthur]

How many of them do you need? if its just a few them I would use the lathe and make it from scratch. If you need more then there is probably quicker ways to mass produce.

[Fe]

To start with I'd need maybe a dozen to test out my projects. I would like to learn how to make them myself, that way I can control various lengths etc. Mass production wise, I've been in contact with many different manufacturers and only found one source that could make them and it would be a custom order and have to be bought in bulk. 

How would I go about making something that thin on a lathe? Thank you :)

[Tony Short]

Have you tried Drews the Ironmongers, near the Lab?? They have guys there who have seen every bit of hardware known to man, and may have some in a very dusty box somewhere!

T

[Arthur]

Yup Drews is worth a try, I have also heard them called encapsulated bolts/screws before if that helps.

[mikethebee]

Hello Fe, 

Glad you sorted the pic posting, they help explain things. It was good to meet you both last night, sorry I had to shoot off but hopefully Gavin warmed you up :)

I mentioned that a watch-makers lathe may be needed, but they are rather pricey, http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/watchmakers-lathe has a few examples. I have copied Malcolm as I mentioned he has some contacts in the Society of Model Engineers who may be able to help.

-MikeTheBee

[Fe]

I've been to Drews and the answer was "the only ones like that we've seen is much bigger and we have no idea where to get them that size". I've contacted many other companies as well with similar or worse responses, hence why I think learning to make them might be the only real way of getting them without ordering 1000+. 

Thanks Mike :) It was lovely meeting you too. Gavin was very helpful as well. I had a quick look at the watch makers lathes as well but apart from being pricey I have no clue what I'm particularly looking at. So much to learn :) 

[Eric Rowen]

For small lathes try your local miniature steam railway club  (Viables Basingstoke is one) 

If mild steel would do then turning down a nail then threading on lathe or by hand would work.

Model makers tend to have small brass fittings, so a local club and or supplier of models (like wooden ships) may have suitable parts you could modify.

On Thu, Mar 23, 2017 at 11:43 PM, 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

I've been to Drews and the answer was "the only ones like that we've seen is much bigger and we have no idea where to get them that size". I've contacted many other companies as well with similar or worse responses, hence why I think learning to make them might be the only real way of getting them without ordering 1000+. 

Thanks Mike :) It was lovely meeting you too. Gavin was very helpful as well. I had a quick look at the watch makers lathes as well but apart from being pricey I have no clue what I'm particularly looking at. So much to learn :) 

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[James Belchamber]

I asked my brother to check (he's works with windows and doors) but he got the same response - they just don't go that small, but they could be custom made.

I don't know what this is being used for but couldn't you go really low-tech and just cut a length of metal rod, then crimp it at both ends? Is it imperative that the post is removable without destroying it?

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[James Belchamber]

Another thought is to use metal rod with retaining clips?

[Fe]

The screw rivet is the pivot point on a folding hand fan, and though a non removable one could be used (hammered rivets are the main way) I would prefer to use a nice looking removable screw type to make mine. I've considered internally threaded rod and using two screws instead but also finding the rod that thin is seemingly an issue. 

I'll have a talk to model makers and see what they say. Thank you :)  The material for the screw rivet isn't that important as long as it doesn't corrode or damage the fan. The ones I have are brass but they're very old and if there's a better/different material that would work I'd love to hear suggestions. :)

I'd still love to hear any other suggestions of how or where I could make/get these or something similar enough :)

[James Belchamber]

For what it's worth, my brother called them "Interested Screws". That might help with your search - good luck!

--

[Norro]

What about a long bolt, a short closed nut end and then a piece of tubing to cover the thread?

[Keegan Neave]

If it just needs to be short and has minimal load could a small length of 3d printer filament do the trick?  Cheap enough to be considered consumable, if you could heat up some plier tips you could crimp each end to seal it in place too.  It's how a lot of printed enclosures create hinges.

---

From: 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: 24 March 2017 11:26
To: Reading Hackspace
Subject: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

 

The screw rivet is the pivot point on a folding hand fan, and though a non removable one could be used (hammered rivets are the main way) I would prefer to use a nice looking removable screw type to make mine. I've considered internally threaded rod and using two screws instead but also finding the rod that thin is seemingly an issue. 

I'll have a talk to model makers and see what they say. Thank you :)  The material for the screw rivet isn't that important as long as it doesn't corrode or damage the fan. The ones I have are brass but they're very old and if there's a better/different material that would work I'd love to hear suggestions. :)

I'd still love to hear any other suggestions of how or where I could make/get these or something similar enough :)

--

[Fe]

Interested Screws? I've seen them called interscrews but not that one. :)

A bolt with a nut on the end wouldn't work due to the fan sticks but if covered by a tube it might. The nut however would spoil the look I was hoping for though and I wonder what would happen if the nut slightly loosened. Would the tube spin or cause the fan to not unfold correctly? Hmm, I'll have a think about it.

Isn't 3D filament flexible at 2mm ish diameter? If it is it wouldn't work. Also the rivet needs to be strong enough to survive repeated opening and closing, and being handled relatively roughly. Would the filament or the crimped ends withstand that?

[Ian Petrie]

How about these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270Pcs-Male-Female-M2-Brass-PCB-Spacer-Standoff-Screw-Nut-Assortment-Threaded-/292051114693?hash=item43ff9a5ac5:g:7EUAAOSwCU1Yw2t7

The threads are 2mm so the barrels are about 4mm dia so the end result will be slightly larger than the target.

The fluting on the sides probably wouldn't matter for a fan or could be turned off - even on our big lathe - and reduce the diameter to just over 3mm.

There are several ways to do the ends using a combination of the male and female ends. Superglueing discs on each end possibly, or soft soldering.

[Keegan Neave]

It's pretty stiff, as to if it would last I'm not sure to be honest, just thought I'd throw it out there. :)

---

From: 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com>

Sent: 24 March 2017 12:37

To: Reading Hackspace
Subject: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

Interested Screws? I've seen them called interscrews but not that one. :)

A bolt with a nut on the end wouldn't work due to the fan sticks but if covered by a tube it might. The nut however would spoil the look I was hoping for though and I wonder what would happen if the nut slightly loosened. Would the tube spin or cause the fan to not unfold correctly? Hmm, I'll have a think about it.

Isn't 3D filament flexible at 2mm ish diameter? If it is it wouldn't work. Also the rivet needs to be strong enough to survive repeated opening and closing, and being handled relatively roughly. Would the filament or the crimped ends withstand that?

--

[Eric Rowen]

Now I clicked on the pics, the part looks home made and turned.

Fiddly to make but possible, and then could be of whatever material you like. 

Modelmaker/model engineer/model steam engine club member... would be your ideal choice, especially as they could choose the thread type and size as this is immaterial other than the part screws together.

I remember a post by Barnaby?  on making a very small part, possibly the nozzle or other part for a 3d printer with 1 or 2 mm turned sizes made on the large lathe so this is possible.

I have a mini lathe which would mean making was slightly easier than with a larger model.   Run out (eccentricity of the chuck) would be critical in getting the right size hole drilled in the larger part.

I'm not setup for this type of job atm  but if you are really stuck then shout and I will give it a try. 

On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 1:31 PM, Keegan Neave <keegan...@outlook.com> wrote:

It's pretty stiff, as to if it would last I'm not sure to be honest, just thought I'd throw it out there. :)

---

From: 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-hackspace@googlegroups.com>

Sent: 24 March 2017 12:37
To: Reading Hackspace
Subject: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

Interested Screws? I've seen them called interscrews but not that one. :)

A bolt with a nut on the end wouldn't work due to the fan sticks but if covered by a tube it might. The nut however would spoil the look I was hoping for though and I wonder what would happen if the nut slightly loosened. Would the tube spin or cause the fan to not unfold correctly? Hmm, I'll have a think about it.

Isn't 3D filament flexible at 2mm ish diameter? If it is it wouldn't work. Also the rivet needs to be strong enough to survive repeated opening and closing, and being handled relatively roughly. Would the filament or the crimped ends withstand that?

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[Richard Ibbotson]

Barnaby did make a hot end with a sub mm hole on the M300. It does have the accuracy, but the major issues are work holding, tool holding and speeds. For these small diameters, the chucks are too large, and you really need collets, not chucks. The M300 has a max RPM of 2500, so much too slow for this diameter. You might get one done on the M300, but you might break a few in the process.

If you must make the same, then you need a model makers or watch makers lathe, though again, the process may be slow with that design unless you make some special tooling.

 

I can see why it is hard to find the part to buy, it sits in size between the ones for book binding (bigger), often called Chicago screws, and the ones for watches( smaller). I did look at some watchmaker catalogues, but could not find anything. You might visit a watch /clock maker and ask. ( David Card in Caversham ?).

 

Another source may be knife makers, because I thing they may use something like this to join handles to blades. http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-handle-parts/handle-hardware/corbys-rivets-loveless-others.html

 

If you can change design, then it may be best to avoid the major turning down of the shaft and replace with 2mm studding and thin wall brass tube, or 1.4mm studding and thicker wall tube. For taps M1.6 is a common size, though you could also use BA size. These taps are expensive if good quality, do break very easily.

 

Alternatively, you might be able to use small already threaded brass pillars with the screws like they the use on the heads of mirror screws.

 

Keep up the dialog here, I am sure a solution will emerge.

Richard

 

From: reading-...@googlegroups.com [mailto:reading-...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Rowen
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2017 2:16 PM
To: reading-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

 

Now I clicked on the pics, the part looks home made and turned.

 

Fiddly to make but possible, and then could be of whatever material you like. 

 

Modelmaker/model engineer/model steam engine club member... would be your ideal choice, especially as they could choose the thread type and size as this is immaterial other than the part screws together.

 

I remember a post by Barnaby?  on making a very small part, possibly the nozzle or other part for a 3d printer with 1 or 2 mm turned sizes made on the large lathe so this is possible.

 

I have a mini lathe which would mean making was slightly easier than with a larger model.   Run out (eccentricity of the chuck) would be critical in getting the right size hole drilled in the larger part.

 

I'm not setup for this type of job atm  but if you are really stuck then shout and I will give it a try. 

On Fri, Mar 24, 2017 at 1:31 PM, Keegan Neave <keegan...@outlook.com> wrote:

It's pretty stiff, as to if it would last I'm not sure to be honest, just thought I'd throw it out there. :)

 

From: 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: 24 March 2017 12:37
To: Reading Hackspace
Subject: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

 

Interested Screws? I've seen them called interscrews but not that one. :)

 

A bolt with a nut on the end wouldn't work due to the fan sticks but if covered by a tube it might. The nut however would spoil the look I was hoping for though and I wonder what would happen if the nut slightly loosened. Would the tube spin or cause the fan to not unfold correctly? Hmm, I'll have a think about it.

 

Isn't 3D filament flexible at 2mm ish diameter? If it is it wouldn't work. Also the rivet needs to be strong enough to survive repeated opening and closing, and being handled relatively roughly. Would the filament or the crimped ends withstand that?

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[Fe]

Thanks all for the suggestions so far. 

Unfortunately 3mm outside barrel diameter would be too large. The screw hole is 1.55mm in diameter on the one I posted. I think the largest outside barrel diameter I could use is 2.5mm and that might be a tad too large. The fluting would definitely need to be shaved off as it would interfere with the folding. 

The pictured screw rivet is possibly over 100 years old, and was probably hand made by the fan maker or a craftsman who supplied them. Is there any good model makers/model engineers/model steam engine club members near Reading you would recommend I could talk to or would mind chatting to me about how best to go about making them? As I've said, I'd really like to learn to make them myself ideally, but if you are willing to help make a couple so that I can test them that would be lovely. How much would you want to do it? :) Also is there any particularly good model maker shops that I should look at for supplies? I unfortunately am a complete newbie when it comes to lathes (actually most of the main tools downstairs) so am not entirely sure what to look for/what can be done with them.

[Fe]

I've talked to clock makers and watch makers and they don't have/use these type of rivets and didn't know where else for me to look for them. The knife handle rivets are too short and they don't/aren't willing to manufacture them longer (I am currently wanting around 30mm). These screw rivets seem to have many different names depending on which industry you look at :) As for altering the design, that is a possibility. What to you mean by the major turning down of the shaft? (Sorry completely new). Haven't seen any internally threaded rods or pillars of the correct size. Thank you for your help :)

[Mr E]

This looks kind of close - http://www.interscrew.co.uk/brass-nickel-plated-interscrew/brass-nickel-plated-interscrew ?

On 24 March 2017 at 17:34, 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

I've talked to clock makers and watch makers and they don't have/use these type of rivets and didn't know where else for me to look for them. The knife handle rivets are too short and they don't/aren't willing to manufacture them longer (I am currently wanting around 30mm). These screw rivets seem to have many different names depending on which industry you look at :) As for altering the design, that is a possibility. What to you mean by the major turning down of the shaft? (Sorry completely new). Haven't seen any internally threaded rods or pillars of the correct size. Thank you for your help :)

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[Fe]

Yep those are basically the same but have a 5mm barrel diameter. Trying to find the same at the 2-2.5 mm that I need that is the issue. I've contacted them and they don't sell them, and weren't sure they could even make them that small.

[Malcolm Napier]

Hi Fe,

Mike suggested that I might know someone who could help you but my contacts in teh model engineering community are very out of date (they go back to mid-2010 when we were building our first 3d printer and needed a very fine hole (0.3mm) drilling in several brass nozzles).

I approached the nearest Society of Model Engineers.  In my case this happened to be High Wycombe. However, you can find your local club here.

One of the members of SMEE has started a website for makers of watches and clocks called The Micrometer. If you look at the bottom of this page there is a contact for him. He might be worth contacting?

I am not a member of SMEE. I am, however, a member of the Stirling Engine Society. I am not aware of any members with "micro" equipment. Much of the focus in the group is on higher power engines.  However, I am aware of this company in Maidenhead - who make Stirling Engine Kits for sale around the world. They might be worth contacting?

And finally, Surrey & Hampshire Makerspace have a mini-lathe and might be prepared to have a go at making something for you. I am not sure how small they can go, however.

I hope that something in here helps.

Regards,
Malcolm

[Fe]

Thank you. I'll check them out. :)

[Eric Rowen]

Try searching on "Binder Bolt(s)"   you will see (unfortunately)  the Chinese name for these referred to too,   as  *** Bolts.

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/binder-posts-screws.html ................  the first of many hits on "Binder Bolts"  

You mentioned   among other things in your original post    "binding posts"  this gets hits for electrical connectors

"A binding post is a connector commonly used on electronic test equipment to terminate a single wire or test lead. They are also found on loudspeakers and audio amplifiers as well as other electrical equipment."

However searching on "Binder Bolt"  in say eBay does bring up hits for "Binding post(s) which look like binder bolts! 

I didn't see anything of the size of binder bolt you need on the site above but a more exhaustive search may find what you need.

Further search on *** bolts reveals they are   "Also known as barrel nuts and Chicago bolts." 

--

[Eric Rowen]

This post   http://modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=628.0    also lists a number of suppliers of very small nuts bolts etc.  including this one in the UK

https://www.ekpsupplies.com/index.php

They may not supply binder bolts but may know someone who does.

I didn't look at all the links in the  post

On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Eric Rowen <eric.ro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Try searching on "Binder Bolt(s)"   you will see (unfortunately)  the Chinese name for these referred to too,   as  *** Bolts.

http://www.rivetsinstock.com/binder-posts-screws.html ................  the first of many hits on "Binder Bolts"  

You mentioned   among other things in your original post    "binding posts"  this gets hits for electrical connectors

"A binding post is a connector commonly used on electronic test equipment to terminate a single wire or test lead. They are also found on loudspeakers and audio amplifiers as well as other electrical equipment."

However searching on "Binder Bolt"  in say eBay does bring up hits for "Binding post(s) which look like binder bolts! 

I didn't see anything of the size of binder bolt you need on the site above but a more exhaustive search may find what you need.

Further search on *** bolts reveals they are   "Also known as barrel nuts and Chicago bolts." 

[Fe]

Yep, they have many different names and other fixings seem to share the same/similar names which makes the search more difficult. I seem to find new ones every time I look. :) Sex bolt, binding posts, Chicago screws, interscrews, barrel bolts, barrel nut, partition screws, door closure bolts, furniture screws, panel fasteners, architectural sex bolts, arch series screws, hinge screws, display fasteners, screw nuts, connector bolts, threaded rivets, grommet nuts, post and screw sets, book screws, and stationary screws are all different names for it according to wiki. The issue mainly seems (for my needs anyway) that they don't go smaller than 5mm outside barrel diameter. Some sites even don't bother to list this diameter as it seems to be standard. I've seen 3mm outside barrel but those are too big as well. I've contacted a lot of the companies that sell/make them and they don't sell/make them at the size I need and didn't know where else I could look for them. There is only one exception who needed me to bulk order 500+ which is a tad over what I need for prototyping with, especially as I'll want different lengths later and having to order each one as bulk will be very expensive. I've even gone to companies that do piercing jewellery but those again would need bulk and are far more expensive. 

Hence why I think learning to make them myself might be the best option. I actually hadn't thought of model makers/engineers before it was suggested earlier, so now I've been looking through sites dedicated to them. So far they don't seem to sell what I need but they do make things similar. I'm just waiting to hear back from the model society group near me if they can shed some light on what I need to look for or need to be able to make them before looking at the groups further out. Thank you for those links, I'll check them out. :) 

Thank you all again for coming up with so many suggestions and ideas of where to look. Please keep them coming :)

[Andy Noyes]

Is there a reason you can't just make the holes in the mating parts 0.75mm bigger?

[Eric Rowen]

Plethora of names lol  

I consulted the local experts on nuts, bolts and fittings and Binder Bolt and Sex Bolt are apparently the most common names...... (unless they're not !! ) 

I will find some brass or similar material and try making one, I have access to some tiny BA taps but maybe not dies, will check tomorrow, the other rare/expensive ish part (because of the likelihood of breaking them) is a drill bit small enough (an excuse to make a 4 facet sharpening jig  for smaller bits to ease the pressure need to make them cut) 

As mentioned above these small taps dies and drill bits are the expensive items you may not find at a Makerspace unless they have been gifted by a model maker.

--

[Eric Rowen]

This seems to be closer, (2mm)  but the picture on the left changes depending on the selection of brass or Nickel and the heads have slots... Plus you would need an internally threaded tube to connect the two............ or...the Nickel option seems to show heads with a threaded hole so you could use a threaded rod to connect the two and use a thin plastic tube to encase the rod to prevent the threads from damaging the fan. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chicago-Posts-Screws-Brass-Nickel-in-sizes-from-2-50mm-In-Packs-10-100-/132120244582

[Eric Rowen]

oops  the 2mm looks like length ! 

[Fe]

Hi Andy, the reason for the size is that they are for making folding hand fans. 2.5mm would be the limit on the size of the barrel before it makes the fan sticks to likely to break near the rivet due to lack of material. Making the fans bigger would then make them unwieldy for my purposes. 

To Old Raft, that would be wonderful if you are happy to try. :) Any excuse for new projects? :P Yes the taps, dies and drills are unlikely to be in the makerspace but if it is doable, I'd be happy to buy some. The issue then would be the lathe I imagine as the makerspace has the large M300 and the wood turning lathes which might have an issue with something this small. 

The link you sent then is a lovely example of what I was talking about in my previous post. the 2mm it references is the length of the bolt, however it is 5mm diameter. I contacted the seller when I saw them myself and he confirmed that. 5mm OD seems to be presumed. Thank you for looking though :)  

[Eric Rowen]

This site has a good table for BA sizes, for  1.55 mm ish thread we seem to be looking at  BA 10 or 11

http://www.royalsignals.org.uk/articles/threads.htm

--

[Fe]

Thank you for the link. Yes a 10 or 11 would be perfect. :)

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[Eric Rowen]

Hi Fe,     

I think I have all the dimensions except for the exact length with the binder bolt assembled. i.e. screwed in fully.

On the 1st and 5th photo it looks like 2.7 cm ?  (but the head is positioned 1mm from the red "10"  on the tape measure?) so 2.6 cm? 

What is more important is the dimension to the inside face of the head(s)  as this is the distance the fan will be compressed to.   I'm assuming you want the bolt to tighten against itself as shown in the 5th photo when fitted to the fan. 

I'm assuming the 3.8 mm dia heads  thickness isn't too critical, but has to be in proportion to the rest of the bolt. 

If you can clarify the above I will make a sketch to confirm things. 

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[Fe]

That rivet is 2.6cm would it be possible to make it 3cm long measured from the underside of both heads? That's the length I'm currently trying to get as the vintage one is a tad short. The 3.8 diameter head fine, but as long as it's around that it'll be fine as that isn't too important. Thank you so much :)

[Eric Rowen]

Sounds good.  In the next day or three I will send you a diagram with dimensions to check. 

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[Fe]

Cool :) Thank you! :)

[Richard Ibbotson]

Sorry, been a bit quiet on this one. The point I made earlier about major machining task was that to machine long thin sections is a time-consuming task, with risk of breakage of the part if you try to go too fast or hard.

 

My thoughts are to reduce or remove the more complex machining tasks.

 

For the stem of the assembly, I would use studding or all thread. This is available in 2.5mm, 2.0mm and 1.6mm sizes, threaded to M2.5, M2.0, and M1.6.

http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/catalog/threaded-rod

Brass is most common, but steel would likely be better if you can find it.

 

If you must have a smooth outside, then you could use brass tube over the threaded rod. 2.5mm thin wall tube will fit over M2, and 2.5mm thick wall over M1.6.

https://maccmodels.co.uk/materials-metal/brass-sections/brass-tube/brass-k-s-tube-metric-thin-wall/2-5mm-dia-brass-tube-12-long.html

 

Most simple nuts would be dome or acorn nuts, but they will stick out more. Have seen them on fans though.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141951719509?chn=ps&adgroupid=40208335658&rlsatarget=pla-276891066427&abcId=923896&adtype=pla&merchantid=115173147&poi=&googleloc=1007009&device=c&campaignid=738217568&crdt=0

 

If you must have a flat barrel nut, then these are simpler to make than the full Chicago screw assembly.

 

Do use thread lock compound on the nuts.

 

If you are buying taps and dies, avoid the cheap ones, they are not worth bothering with, you need good quality HSS taps and dies, though they are expensive and delicate!

 

Have a think. Maybe we should meet up at rlab, and do some turning of parts to demonstrate. I can bring down my Emco Unimat lathe to show you.

 

Richard

From: 'Fe' via Reading Hackspace [mailto:reading-...@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 7:59 PM
To: Reading Hackspace <reading-...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [RDG-Hack] Re: Very thin binding posts

 

Cool :) Thank you! :)

[Fe]

Thank you :) Flat nuts would be preferred as the dome ones tend to jab into hands. I'd love to meet up and see what we could do on your lathe. Currently I'm ill but if you are willing to do this in a week or so I'd love to. Thank you very much. :)  

[Richard Ibbotson]

No problem, just let me know when you are ready to come down.
Richard

[Fe]

Thank you :)

[Eric Rowen]

Drawing,  please check, especially dimensions  e.g. thickness of the head at each end I have put these at 2mm but looking at the photos you may want 1mm ?

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[Fe]

From my quick measuring of the ones I have, the head is 0.65mm thick, so 1mm or less would be preferred if possible. Though 2mm would probably still be usable if not. The missing dimension that I can see on the drawing is 30mm length between heads please.Thank you so much for trying this :)

[Old Raft]

ooooPs  no 30 cm  which of course I knew !  :-) 

1 mm should be ok for the head. 

[Fe]

30mm not cm. That would be a very long binding post :P

[Eric Rowen]

I will get it right soon (Don't worry I would not be attempting to make a 30 cm version)  ..................but maybe for multiple fans??? on 30 cm  lol 

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[Fe]

It would certainly be an interesting engineering challenge at that length :P

[Fe]

Hi, I don't know if you got my PM, but I'm much better now and if you are still willing to bring your lathe down and have a go at turning I'm free most days in the afternoons and evenings. Do you want me to bring anything in particular? Or money to pay for material costs? Thank you :)

On Sunday, 2 April 2017 12:01:35 UTC+1, Richard Ibbotson wrote:

[Fe]

A huge thank you to Richard for bringing down his lathe last night and teaching me and helping me make a binding post :) I'll definitely need more practice. :) (The one on the left Richard made, the one on the right is the one I made)

[Simon Fox]

Hi there, sorry to keep an old thread alive but I am also trying to find a thin barrel nut and bolt, much like the beautiful ones made in this post albeit the head needs to be a larger diameter and I have scoured the internet and this is the only place that has come close.  Is there anyone that can help me?  Barrel needs to be no thicker than 3mm.

Thank you for your wisdom in advance.