FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

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Jay Connolly

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Sep 8, 2017, 2:18:31 PM9/8/17
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I have a never-opened Nitto S84 lugged seatpost, 27.2 x 300mm long. $140 USD, shipped.

Jay

Jay Connolly

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Sep 8, 2017, 2:19:46 PM9/8/17
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Ryan Fleming

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Sep 8, 2017, 2:42:24 PM9/8/17
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I wonder if these lugged seatposts have more setback than the S-83 ones do. Anybody know?  Reason I ask is I wonder if my mixte position would benefit from scootching the saddle back a little .

I'm using a Brooks Select on an S-83 and I'm finding that the Choco-Norms (which were chopped a bit by Riv) reach back more that I'd like and I find the handling a little twitchier than I'd like 

Shoji Takahashi

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Sep 8, 2017, 2:52:22 PM9/8/17
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Hi Ryan,
Yes, Nitto lugged seatpost has more setback than Nitto S83 which is ~ same as Nitto Crystal Fellow. According to Riv website, it's ~40mm compared to ~20mm compared to ~18mm, respectively. 

Good luck!
shoji

Ryan Fleming

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Sep 8, 2017, 2:56:45 PM9/8/17
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Thanks...that is good to know

Joe Bernard

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Sep 8, 2017, 4:00:29 PM9/8/17
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Ryan, you may benefit from an Albatross if cutting another inch off the Choco isn't something you want to mess with. I've done major chopping on the Bosco on my Clem L and still could use a little more room, which the Alba would give me.

Ryan Fleming

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Sep 8, 2017, 5:48:57 PM9/8/17
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and part of my problem I guess is that I am so used to moustache bars (which was my original idea) and I still ride drop bars  . I was thinking of the seatpost setback as another way to angle my torso more toward what I'm accustomed to...and with more  towards the 45 or so degrees I'm used to, I'll have my butt back a little and more weight on the bars. Maybe totally unscientific but I thought I'd explore that to get rid of the twitchiness that I notice...as I say that's where living close to RBWHQ would be a benefit :) aside from the nice folks in California.

Joe Bernard

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Sep 8, 2017, 7:29:31 PM9/8/17
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I just did a ride with another half-inch cut off the Boscos and it was much better: more room and less twitchy. Aside from needing more reach, I think I needed to be a little more over the front end..the wheel had a disconnected 'too far in front of me' feel I didn't like.

I'm not trying to talk you out of buying the lugged seatpost, but if you want to get to a hardware store and pick up a pipe cutter you can try taking another inch off your Chocos.

Jay Connolly

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Sep 11, 2017, 8:13:08 AM9/11/17
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Lowering the price on this significantly to move it -- 115 USD (net to me), shipped.

Jay

Ryan Fleming

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Sep 11, 2017, 8:48:46 AM9/11/17
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Joe...that's exactly the sensation I have

Tim

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Sep 11, 2017, 1:31:35 PM9/11/17
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Maybe this is a dumb suggestion, but couldn't one simulate cutting off the Choco bars by gripping them a bit further forward from the ends. I say this because I'm guessing that the "twitchiness" you both describe (a description I've never heard about any Riv) maybe is due to the increased leverage from gripping the very swept back Choco bars at the end (the natural place one would grab, of course.) It seems the swept back bars are, in essence, a lever, and the further away from the axis of rotation, the easier (twitchier?) it is to turn the wheels. If you notice less response when you move your hands in, then shorten the bars. I'm thinking that by moving the seat back, more weight goes to the rear wheel, thus the twitchiness could get worse. Full disclosure: I am about as far from an engineer or bike designer as I could be. In other words, my opinion and 4 bucks will get you a latte, and nothing else.

Jay Connolly

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Sep 11, 2017, 1:38:40 PM9/11/17
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Seatpost sold.

Ryan Fleming

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Sep 11, 2017, 2:26:35 PM9/11/17
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Hi Tim...you make a good point about not shoving the saddle back   and  my other Rivs are not in the least twitchy but this one with Chocos ,  to my mind, is and this is after Mark tweaked it by swapping in a longer stem (12 or 13cm) and cutting off  14mm off the choc. bars. Riv graciously gave me my choice of what I wanted to do. so I went with that option. One way or the other, I'm still a few millimeters from Nirvana but I'm also thinking that the configuration is just not what I'm  personally used to. I haven't ridden an upright bike since I was 13 or 14. Totally fixable , though, I am sure

 BTW not using this forum to criticize Rivendell who could not have been more accommodating and who built me  a  gorgeous bike.

Les Lammers

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Sep 15, 2017, 4:33:18 PM9/15/17
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I seem to have the same issue with my Cheviot. I have some Albatross bars I'd like to use but a bar end shifter is stuck is one side and nothing I've tried so far will budge it. I may trim the bars a bit and see if that helps.

Bill in Roswell GA

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Sep 16, 2017, 1:22:53 AM9/16/17
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Pray tell, Jay, why are you hiding the beauty of that stem behind the light reflecting bag? 

How about photos of the stem in raw, stark raving nakedness! 

Cheers,
Bill i nRoswell, GA

Jay Connolly

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Sep 16, 2017, 7:35:55 AM9/16/17
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Well, it's gone now, Bill. I was just emphasizing its purity by leaving it untouched.

Jay

Garth

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Sep 16, 2017, 8:49:05 AM9/16/17
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Well yes, moving the saddle back just to get more reach means either the bike doesn't fit properly and/or the bars/stem needs changing in some way. There is a "sweet spot" for every bike and every rider, and there is no set formula to find it and it's never the same for anyone else. I cannot even tell you exactly what "it" is, only that it is, you just know it when it's felt and it's yours to behold and share with that irrestible grin of a child on your face ☺

Patrick Moore

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Sep 16, 2017, 10:18:05 AM9/16/17
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On Sat, Sep 16, 2017 at 6:49 AM, Garth <gart...@gmail.com> wrote:
Well yes, moving the saddle back just to get more reach means either the bike doesn't fit properly and/or the bars/stem needs changing in some way.

+1
 
There is a "sweet spot" for every bike and every rider, and there is no set formula to find it and it's never the same for anyone else. I cannot even tell you exactly what "it" is, only that it is, you just know it when it's felt and it's yours to behold and share with that irrestible grin of a child on your face ☺

Well, but you can start with Peter Jon White's instructions on saddle positioning, in his bike fitting article which I read 20 years ago and which has been the most helpful advice on saddles that I've read. That and 10 years of riding the bike will probably give you a pretty good idea of where the saddle ought to be. (For the excessively earnest, I'm kidding about the "10 years" but it will take a while.)

lconley

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Sep 18, 2017, 11:38:33 AM9/18/17
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Or one has a long torso and short legs. I am 6 feet tall and have a 83 PBH (legs from somebody who is 5'9", torso from somebody who is 6'3") and I am fat. On some bikes, even Rivendells with top tubes on the long side, sometimes I just need that little bit extra. Almost all of my saddles are Brooks, and they tend to have less adjustment range than most. Decades ago, I usually rode a frame that was "too large" for me with a really long stem - I have a 140 mm Cinelli stem on one of my bikes. I now have a couple of Nitto lugged seatposts - more comfortable than a long stem and less flex in the steering. Now that VO has ruined their two-bolt setback seatpost - Nitto is the only way to go.

Laing

Ron Mc

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Sep 18, 2017, 11:49:44 AM9/18/17
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If you have an upright that feels wrong, S84 seatpost will probably make it right.  
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