Really hope this works out well for you and your friend because i wanna build one. I have the same problem as your friend. These people who live behind me have a dog that just barks all the damn time during the day and even at night. The owners don't care either. The type of people who have no business owning a dog. So I'm really hoping this works and you have a good report. Been looking online at some manufactured devices and they seem as though they're more for a up close and personal training instead of from a distance, which is basically my only option. Anyway, hope it works out for you friend and you can give a good report.
I live in a apartment and the dog below me barks constantly whenever it is home alone. Drives me crazy. I wonder if a device like Steve's would penetrate through the floor? I want to build one of these but I'm going to hold off until Steve reports back.
A big thanks to Steve for sharing the build and experiences with us.
Robert
A few points:
All of the reports I've heard -- generically online and also here in this group -- about devices that attempt to detect and respond to a dog's barking, suffer from apparently insurmountable discrimination problems. Either their "sensitivity" is turned down so low (to prevent false positives) that they fail to trigger when they should... or in order to get them to trigger reliably when a dog barks, their "sensitivity" needs to be cranked so far up that they are also responding to all sorts of extraneous environmental noises.
Any low-tech cheap and cheesy solution will rely upon too few parameters for making its determination.
But... it is my feeling that a highly reliable bark detection system, with automatic and instantaneous response to VALID barking, is THE optimal solution for this system. Since this 3rd-generation experimental device will incorporate a microprocessor, I'm already planning to give-a-to to developing a highly accurate dog bark characterization and detection system.
--//--
Next...
As you know, this system uses a high-power and high-frequency transducer to produce a brief sharp "training tone" which will hopefully quickly curtail any dog's boredom-based barking. The bad news is that such high frequency is VERY efficiency blocked by anything standing in the path between the emitter and the receiver (the doggie). LOW frequencies are readily passed by turning the blocking object into a sympathetic re-emitter. We've all experienced the sound of a loud audio system on the other side of a wall. What we hear is predominately the "boom boom boom" of the lower bass frequencies because the intervening wall, which acts as a very effective low-pass filter, blocks the "highs" and transmits the "low" by itself vibrating sympathetically. But the wall has too much mass and inertia to vibrate at a high frequency.
Consequently...
What I would recommend would be that you explain the problem to the dog's owners and offer to provide THEM (on loan) with "The Bark Stops Here" device. That way, the device can be in proximity to the barker.
I also have plans to allow the device to perform logging and reporting. So it COULD be put into a passive bark monitoring mode in order to develop a case about when, how many times, how often a dog is barking. And... if it's running in active mode it will/can record the same data to (hopefully dramatically) demonstrate the training effect of the device's active mode.
/Steve.
Steve,
If I cant test, please let us know when there is posted plabs and a parts list.
PS just finished reading (yea reading) Daemon on audio.... So good, and scarily plausible.
Cheers!
Bo
Martin (v. long time listener)
Does the use of this MSP430 mean that the LPC 1769 (Expresso) previously proposed will not be used?Thanks in advance.
Also, if it would not be too much trouble do you think you could post a wiring diagram. I'm an auto mechanic by trade and these systems are a lot easier for me to visualize as schematics than spoken words.
It would help to know which tweeter you are using so I might be able to take advantage of cyber-monday belated deals.
You are sending a 60% approx duty cycle out but getting a sine wave at the tweeter? I know the harmonics would be cut, but if it is a sine, why not 50%.
I use various flavors of Atmel ATmegas and ATtinys, so I will probably do one of those since I have tubes of them (including with serial port and matching bluetooth modules).
I hope the gerbers or even the CAD files would be available at some place like BatchPCB.
Hello Everyone!!
So where have I been?
As people who have known me and followed my work for many years know, I have so many various irons in the fire that I shift my work-priorities when the associated need-priorities change. In the case of the resurrection of this infamous "Portable Dog Killer" project (which was renamed to "Portable Sound Blaster" in recognition of the fact that we're no longer 15) my best friend's troubles with the wayward "dog next door" had abated for last year. So I after pursuing the design of a second-generation device, I switched my attention to other more pressing work without ever needing to push the theory all the way to practice. But that changed several weeks ago...
I was hanging out at Mark's house a few weeks ago, helping him set up a new Windows 7, 4-channel CableCard Media Center HD recording system... and the yappy little shit was back at it again! He told me that he had recently been awakened at 2:30am, and that it was becoming a problem.
So I picked up where I had left off late last summer and completed the first working model of what developed into an unbelievably loud super-sonic acoustic blaster:
http://www.grc.com/r&d/HPEDW-Front.jpg
http://www.grc.com/r&d/HPEDW-Back.jpg
Since Mark's application need was for more of an "installation", I chose a configuration that is less a "sound gun" and more of a "deterrent outpost". And since you really don't want to be anywhere near this thing -- especially not in front of it when it's activated -- I included a 500-foot (nominal) range, single-channel, 315 Mhz RF remote control that can be used to either trigger a fixed 4-second blast, or operate the unit in On/Off Toggle mode.
For audio power generation, I used four synchronously-driven high-power handling, piezoelectric horns which will produce phase-coherent wavefronts. But since I didn't want the system to produce a too-focused and directional beam, the emitters being spaced several wavelengths apart will result in a wider dispersion.
The emitters are driven in parallel though through individual LR networks by an RC-snubbed inductive flyback voltage booster which is switched by a single high voltage n-channel depletion-mode MOSFET which is, in turn, driven by a well-bypassed high-current MOSFET gate driver. And all that is driven by a simple pair of 555 timers, one for the carrier and the second as an FM modulator.
The main power MOSFET switches so fully and rapidly between full on to full off that it runs completely cool. But the flyback's RC snubber is dissipating more power, in heat, than I would like. But without doing much fancier switching (which I might someday do) there wasn't any obvious cleaner solution.
The system is powered at a nominal 12 volts DC, which will usually be provided by an external "wall wart" power supply, and which can also be sourced by internal batteries. (The box contains two, four-"C"-cell battery holders yielding 12 vdc.)
The inductive flyback generates about 36 to 40 peak-to-peak volts across the piezo transducers, which pushes them right up to their peak RMS operating power limit -- and holy crap are they loud!
Mark wanted something that would seriously deter the canine from barking, while being undetectable by the neighboring humans. So I pitched the carrier to be adjustable from about 10 kHz to 25 kHz. The FM modulating sub-carrier is more for fun than anything, but if, by chance, the dog isn't sufficiently annoyed by an extremely high power fixed frequency, operating near the upper end of its hearing, adding some rapid FM modulation flutter ought to do the trick. (It sure does annoy me!)
Speaking of which... The result is SO LOUD that the only way I was able to work with the system during final testing and tuning, was to zip up the "lid" of the box, which contains the four emitters, in a pair of heavily foam padded laptop bags, one inside the other.
My feeling is that this might be overkill. One emitter might have been sufficient. But there was really no way of knowing that ahead of time. Such is the nature of prototypes. One thing my low-parts-count simple flyback voltage booster doesn't offer... is a volume control. It either generates a 40 volt p-p sinewave, or nothing.
But this DOES mean that a single-emitter "mailman's" or "jogger's" hand-blaster would probably be very useful and practical.
Also... for some reason I started out thinking that using a pair of 555 timer/oscillators would be "easier" than programming a little PIC processor to generate a square wave. But the required resistors and capacitors all add up. Before you know it you've got bypass caps and coupling caps, and bias resistors... on and on. So any next iteration design will definitely use a low pin count PIC chip to generate the square wave which, in turn, drives the MOSFET gate driver.
I just finished this a few hours ago, so I don't yet have any real world report on the device's actual field effectiveness. That begins a few hours from now. Hopefully, before long, we will be one dog down. We'll see.
Leo is away from the podcast through Thanksgiving, which means he won't be back until three podcasts from now. I plan to leave this with Mark until then, then retrieve it for a show-and-tell at the beginning of the first podcast after Leo's return.
For anyone who might be interested in building a one, two, three, four, or more, emitter system, I need to track down where I found those particular emitters. There are plenty of really crappy ones for a couple of dollars (and they look utterly identical) but they are all Chinese rip-offs of the ones I finally located and barely work at all. However, I found those a year ago... so it'll take some doing to track down their source.
Keep an eye out for the podcast where I'll be talking about this further, and I will report back here about Mark's experience with the device in practice.
Steve.
So where , when do we see parts list ... software ? I have a bit of experience with Arduino ... I imagine it too would be able to drive the amp. I can build stuff ... Jamco. Allide, etc. We have terrrible problem with Ravens taking / wrecking all our fruit before its ripe! I don't have the heart to kill and don't desire to own a gun. I'd love to build prototype with single tweeter. If there was a kit available I'd buy just to expidite.anxiously awaiting.
Greetings All!I placed the TI order on the Nov 30th and it arrived on Saturday Dec 1st, FEDEX Express, with no shipping charge. I suspect that the shipping charge alone outweighed the actual cost for two boards!I spent my time in the US Navy as a sonar technician. All of our sonars us phased-array piezo-electric transducers to form 2kHz to 18kHz sonic beams in any direction at selectable intensities. Of course, the medium was water where sound behaves quite differently than in air. The transducers are also the receivers..Phasing transducer arrays to form beams is fundamentally a math problem based on physical position, frequency and local speed of sound (which is a variable based on local temperature and density of the medium). I can envision a microprocessor with temperature and humidity sensors regulating the parameters, if necessary.Has anyone here explored the practicality of using a phased sonic array in air?
Kyle,
Thanks very much for your well placed thoughts and concerns. As you might expect, I have researched and considered this VERY important question thoroughly.
And you are 100% correct: Just because WE can't readily hear the sound DOESN'T mean that it's not still loud and potentially dangerous and damaging to us.
And, in fact, acoustic radiation is very much like other forms of radiation: Either an exposure to a large amount in a short time, or a gradual accumulation a lower level over a longer time, set against our body's slowly decelerating rate of repair as we age... can result in long-term damage to our body's delicate systems. (There's a reason the dental tech always leaves the room when our jaws are being x-rayed... and also a reason a lead apron is draped over our gonads too! :)
I absolutely intend to be VERY CLEAR and tutorial -- and to frighten people -- about the very real dangers of chronic exposure to high levels of sound -- both audible and inaudible -- and to also explain the effects of sound level and distance.
The devices which people will be able to manufacture from this work will NOT BE TOYS. That's why I believe they will be effective... but with that effectiveness, because of that effectiveness, comes responsibility for its usage. So the resulting devices need to be treated with the same respect as a knife or a loaded gun. The batteries should be removed when it is not being actively used. It should be off limits to the kids and kept out of the hands of children. And I'll also be providing graphics for the creation of clear warning labels so that an understanding of the device's nature is transferred to, and appreciated by, anyone else who ever uses it if ownership ever changes.
There was a LOT that I did not have time to discuss during yesterday's podcast (and it wasn't, after all, a "sonic blaster" podcast). But there are several reasons I chose to use a microprocessor as the system's "oscillator" rather than a much simpler (though, perversely, not much less expensive) analog timer chip: For one thing, I plan to generate a MUCH more "annoying" sound, by pseudo-randomly varying the positioning of the rising and falling edges of the output square wave. This will create more of a low-ultrasonic "screech" than a pure sine-wave "tone" by producing a very harmonic rich sound.
And secondly, I plan to incorporate a built-in timeout so that it's NOT POSSIBLE to "tape down" the button of the device in order to run it continuously. If someone wishes to circumvent those safety measures the responsibility will be theirs. But I cannot see any typical need for ever generating more than about half a second of sound from the device. (When my buddy Mark made the neighbor's yappy little dog jump three feet into the side of the house, he had just given it the barest of a "tap".) The goal is NEVER to "hurt" anything in any way... ONLY to startle and train. And for that a brief "blip" is probably even more effective than a protracted event.
And lest we get TOO carried away with all this, we should remember that all this is, is a generic audio system piezoelectric tweeter connected to an amplifier and audio oscillator. It's really not so exotic. Mostly I've just made such a system convenient, portable, and battery operated.
But that said, I want to and plan to GO OVERBOARD with being as responsible as I can possibly be. As you originally pointed out, just because we can't readily hear it doesn't mean it's NOT loud and potentially damaging. In that regard, this device DOES differ from a gun or a knife in that common understanding tells us about the inherent dangers and need to be responsible with those well-known weapons.
I need to similarly educate those who wish to experiment with, and employ, high-power high-frequency sound generation equipment.
(And I feel strongly about clearly labeling the device so that when it inevitably falls into the hands of others that understanding will survive and be communicated.)
/Steve.
Watch out for inductor saturation current.I ran some numbers through a simple calculator and see that your inductor through the FET to ground might reach saturation at a frequency below 18KHz at 9V. The calculator says that at 6V you might be able to get down the 12KHz but this is an ideal calculator, your mileage may very. You can use your current shunt resistor to measure the current passing through L1 and the FET.
You mentioned in a different thread that someone might be able to turn the frequency down for Crows but not without an inductor change.
Generally your output voltage is directly related to your duty cycle...
...and you should keep the inductor out of saturation. You can vary the output voltage and thus the volume by changing the duty cycle, well at least that works for a boost converter which is it minus the output diode.
If you center tap the batteries, you will be discharging the batteries at a different rate, correct? This would shorten the battery life. However, you might argue the power consumed by the MSP430 relative to the tweeter is so small that this cost/benefit does not make a noticeable difference in battery performance.
Stephen,
Dakineathon
\For the first group I'll provide everything they need -- a parts list, schematics, theory of operation, etc. and I'll be very interested to learn of their experiences, as well as of any changes and/or improvements they may choose to make.
Hi Steve:
I printed off the “Hush Puppy” schematic v0.1 as soon as it became available & ordered the parts the next day. For some reason, I can no longer find it online. I have gone over the schematic many times to ensure I assembled it correctly however, when I apply power, I hear a small, barely audible “tick” then nothing every time power is applied. I measure 3.21 V between pins 1 & 14 of U1 & 6.43 V between L2 & C3 & ground. I’m using a Pyramid tweeter that says: “Typical Impedance appears as .13 uF”, 200 watts, 94 dB @ 1w/1m. The speakers came as a pair & I tried both. Should you have a spare moment, I could use some guidance to why I cannot get this to work. FYI, I have a basic knowledge of electricity.
Also, I work at an International airport in Canada & part of our duties is wildlife control, which 80% - 90% would involve displacing birds from the vicinity of the runway. I’m confident you can appreciate how hazardous the larger ones can be to aircraft. We generally use pyrotechnics to scare them away however, when they don’t leave, we are left with no choice but to shoot them for safety reasons. This is something I am not fond of doing. Since the PDK episode, I’ve been waiting for over 2 years for something to come to life regarding the PDK to try on birds as you tried it on a seagull when you were younger & said the bird definitely knew it. I would be more than willing to document it for you complete with video. It would most likely have to be a larger unit like the pics you posted of the one built for your friend. You can advise me of any costs associated with the device as well as shipping. Hopefully we could save some stubborn wildlife. Thanks again for all that you & Leo do! First time posting to Google groups, hopefully it's done correctly.
>... but to own something built by you would simply be the coolest thing ever!
That is exactly what I was thinking! I don't have a dog problem but I think it would be cool to own one!
--Nate
You are correct, it is the MSP430G2001 that I purchased. It's definitely a big "whoops!!" on my part.
I will purchase the LaunchPad once the design is final just in case some more parts are required as I have over $30.00 worth of shipping charges on 2 orders of $10 parts so far (shipping to Canada).
The steps listed in your previous post for programming may be above my skill level but I'm willing to learn.
I will take you up on your offer of the pre-programmed controller.
Also, in version v0.4 you changed C1 from a .01 uF to a 10 uF. What is the purpose/effect of doing this?
Looking forward when you have a chance to post an explanation of how this circuit actually works. Thanks again!
Hi Steve, just got my LaunchPad Kit yesterday, I am in Canada and Texas Instruments sent it to me free shipping and it took only a day for the shipping part, so I can confirm that it is also possible to buy the kits from Canada no problem.
I will make a couple of PDK for myself, I'm thinking one portable to train one dog that scares the kids (and myself when I'm with them) when they go to school. Another for the house, so that I can train the neighbor dog. And probably one more portable to lent to friend and family when needed.
And since it's winter here (I'm in Montreal), I have time to build them since all windows are closed and the dogs don't go out much now, so they will be used only around May next year.
If there are some people near Montreal in need, I can help and build some; I have the skills for it, I went to school in electronics in my college years and made many project myself, the last one I can think of was a gift for my girlfriend "Etched Copper Board Valentine".
Thank you for security now, I was listening from the beginning, I was even watching The Screen Savers when it was on TechTV. The PDK episode of Secutiry Now is one of my favorite; it was so funny to me.
Tom...
You wrote:So where , when do we see parts list ... software ? I have a bit of experience with Arduino ... I imagine it too would be able to drive the amp. I can build stuff ... Jamco. Allide, etc. We have terrrible problem with Ravens taking / wrecking all our fruit before its ripe! I don't have the heart to kill and don't desire to own a gun. I'd love to build prototype with single tweeter. If there was a kit available I'd buy just to expidite.anxiously awaiting.
I'm working on the project full time. Last night I was playing with battery size and power amp input voltage, and may be switching everything from 6vdc to 9vdc. A "transistor radio" battery has much less total capacity than a set of four AA's, but it appears that I'm able to get enough additional power out that it would be worthwhile, and the operating efficiency of the system is close to 100%, so we're not wasting anything. Also, a single 9vdc battery is enough smaller to allow the use of a smaller case, which is a big convenience.
But since the MSP430's can only run on 1.8v to 3.6v, I was planning to center-tap four AA's to get a nice "free" 3vdc for the processor. If I switch over to a single, closed, 9vdc battery, I'll need a little fixed-output three-pin regulator. That would annoy me, but this morning I definitely eliminated two of the existing components and possibly a third...
My point is... the design is NEARLY, but not yet, fully complete. It'll happen when it happens. The whole reason I do these things is because it's unknown and unexplored territory, which is what makes it interesting and useful for me. But a side effect of that is that I have no idea when anything will be "finished".
So, without wanting to be a smart-ass... it'll be ready when it is... but that won't be long from now... and it'll be SERIOUSLY tight and wonderful once it's done. :)
Note, also, that birds DO NOT HAVE the same acute high-frequency hearing that canines possess. You can try it as is (and we'd all love to know how it works). But it might be necessary for you to drop the frequency by half, to 7.5 KHz for it to be readily audible by Ravens. That would be a trivial change to the processor's code, and you could just double the value of the series-connected inductor from 1mH to 2mH.
More soon!
/Steve.
Can someone build me one I will pay for it?
There are these two Chihuahua's that circle me while barking aggresively.
They never attack but I am sure if I lost focus they would try to bite me.