3d printer
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Derek Jacoby
Feb 6, 2016, 4:29:16 PM2/6/16
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Sigh. Well, we almost had a working 3d printer again. Armon and I made a new bed and yesterday I got some glass for it.
All put together and it heated up! But a temperature probe showed it lagging the thermistor by 20 degrees, so I turned it up to 90... And it blew up!
Apparently it's back to the drawing board. More soon...
Eric Davies
Feb 6, 2016, 6:09:24 PM2/6/16
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that bed must have some hot spots.
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Eric Davies
Derek Jacoby
Feb 6, 2016, 6:13:58 PM2/6/16
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Not anymore!
Matt Richardson
Feb 6, 2016, 11:52:41 PM2/6/16
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Oh no! That's tragic!
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Fletcher Hallihan
Feb 7, 2016, 2:28:08 PM2/7/16
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A new bed is 90 bucks on the website. That's be around 110 after conversion. I'd be willing to pitch in 20 bucks.
Did the old plate break or some such?
Derek Jacoby
Feb 7, 2016, 3:03:45 PM2/7/16
to makerspaceca, vince geisler
Old plate broke while a member was removing a strongly-adhered part.
I don't think the best route is to get a new plate from robo3D in that it will take a few weeks to get it in and the likelihood of this happening again at some point is pretty high. This is a known weak point of the robo-3d as well, wee: http://www.sd3d.com/not-all-heated-beds-are-created-equal/
Vince has modified his bed to have a metal heat spreader with glass on top. The picture I sent was an attempt to do away with the top metal which was obviously unsuccessful. A top metal plate may render the current heater inadequate, but it might just be barely sufficient.
In terms of adhesion, if we don't have glass there we have the option of buildtak (PEI), blue tape, or kapton tape directly on top of the metal, or we can put a piece of glass on top of the metal and use a system like we have been.
I think even if we have to build a new heater we'll be at or less that the $110 for a new glass plate from robo3D, with some advantages in even heating and a replacement cost of $20 or less if the build surface is damaged in the future.
Love any thoughts you might have.
Thx,
Derek
On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 11:28 AM, Fletcher Hallihan <thedreadp...@gmail.com> wrote:
A new bed is 90 bucks on the website. That's be around 110 after conversion. I'd be willing to pitch in 20 bucks.
Did the old plate break or some such?
Jarren Butterworth
Feb 7, 2016, 3:55:00 PM2/7/16
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Oh no that sucks, and I was just getting into using the machine. I can toss in $20 into the pot next time I'm up to help towards a new bed, what ever solution you guys think it best.
Are there any tricks that the average user should know for helping to preserve the bed's life? I always chop at the base of the print with that ruler until it pops off via sheer forces, rather than trying to pull the item up and put any stress on the bed.
Derek Jacoby
Feb 7, 2016, 3:57:08 PM2/7/16
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Vince uses a stack of glass plates so that you can pop them off and let them cool fully while starting to print on another. I like that scheme. Will update soon...
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Mark
Feb 7, 2016, 4:01:38 PM2/7/16
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In my experience, with this printer and PLA, just let the bed cool (at least 10 minutes).
The print will simply lift off with no force at all.
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Jarren Butterworth
Feb 7, 2016, 5:28:41 PM2/7/16
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How does this technique work? It sounds great, I'd spend almost as much time waiting for things to cool down and re-heat as I did printing. If I could just yank a bit of glass off the bed and sit it aside while a new print gets started that would be amazing.
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