A few Simplify 3D Tips and Tricks

[Tony Shulthise]

Feel free to post better ways to accomplish the same things. These are a few things I've discovered by trial and error recently that have made my prints look much better.

Install the newest version - Simplify 3D 2.0.1 is out. If you have Simplify then download the newest version. I don't know how much better it is but I'm sure some things are improved.

Use small layer height and nozzle diameter settings for fine finishes - MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE "EXTRUSION WIDTH" "AUTO" BOX CHECKED. You can print using settings all the way down to 0.05mm layer height and 0.07 Nozzle Diameter. Using a smaller nozzle diameter setting will give you a much finer print and parts when combined with lower layer heights parts look super smooth. They should rename "Nozzle Diameter" to "extrusion width" since you can print really nice parts with the nozzle diameter setting at 0.07 mm but using a 0.35mm physical nozzle diameter.

Print the first layer thick then subsequent layers as thin as you want. You can print the FIRST layer using a separate "process" with a thicker layer setting and wider Nozzle Diameter setting to take out some of the tedious leveling and Z-offset accuracy required to print very low first layer heights. Think of it as a raft without using the raft setting. THEN, on the subsequent layers make a new process that uses lower layer heights and possibly smaller nozzle diameters to give a fine and detailed finish. The top of the first layer will be level relative to the extruder head so you can print super fine layers without problems.

THE KEY to doing this is using the "start printing at height" and "stop printing at height" settings to tell the slicer when to apply each "process". I don't know why they don't define these by "layer" rather than "height" but you can just multiply the layer height by the number of layers to get the height of any part of the object. Here's an example of using two processes to get a good first layer down followed by very fine print settings without needing to get the bed nearly perfect to start.

Process #1 (first layer) 
Nozzle Diameter = 0.35mm
Layer height = 0.25mm
Start printing at (unchecked)
Stop printing at 0.25 mm

Process #2 (first layer) 
Nozzle Diameter = 0.15mm
Layer height = 0.10mm
Start printing at 0.25 mm
Stop printing at (unchecked)

When you click on "Prepare" you will see the "Select Processes for Preparation" dialog box. Click "select all" then click "continuous printing layer by layer" to combine the two processes into one gcode file.

BEWARE... if you reuse one of these processes it will have the start and stop at height settings you used previously so if you don't remember to adjust them to the new print they won't work correctly.  I.E. if its set to start printing at 0.4mm and you try to use this for your next print then the table will be 0.4mm from the nozzle when (printing in air) for the first layer.

Shortcuts:
Hold Ctrl key and right mouse button to move the object around on the build plate real time (no typing in coordinates)
Hold Ctrl key and left mouse button to scale the object 

This isn't a Simplify3D tip but its a good practice to get into...
Mark EVERY spool of filament with the correct extrusion temperature and filament diameter setting for THAT spool. Every spool will have different settings. Sometimes just using a different color may mean you need to use a 10C different extrusion temperature. Measuring the filament isn't really that useful in my opinion. I rarely end up using a filament diameter setting that corresponds to some measurement I get using digital calipers. Print a small part with each spool of material you have. Try different extrusion temperatures and "filament diameter" settings for different layer height and nozzle diameter settings until you get that roll dialed in to near perfect. You can print 10 different calibration parts using 10 different processes using Simplify3D and the "Sequential Printing: Object by Object" setting in which comes up in a dialog box if you have more than one process in place when you click "Prepare". There are many calibration shapes on Thingiverse to use. Once you get it right then write down the best filament diameter and temperature setting for that roll and stick it to the spool. I do this using a label maker to make it easy to read. If you do this you can always leave your "extrusion multiplier setting at 1.00 and you just have to input the correct "filament diameter" setting based on which spool you plan to use.

Defining manual supports - When you define manual supports make sure you have the "Preview" turned off or nothing will happen.

There are more tips but that's enough to get you going for now. I don't know why I didn't think of using smaller "nozzle diameter" settings before now (Head Smack). I hope this helps someone move up the learning curve faster than I have.

Tony

The following links are pics of a Christmas gift I printed using the finer settings... The smallest letters are about 2 or 3 mm tall. A very thin extrusion diameter setting allowed me to print small letters with no gaps. BTW, the metal part is cast Bismuth. I made a silicone mold from a 3D printed part to cast the Bismuth.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6h9wmr7fq1mu0rb/IMG_0220%20%28Large%29.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mdc9x4zaql05ohb/IMG_0221%20%28Large%29.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r6vzo92yhd0injo/IMG_0222%20%28Large%29.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vo76ytx9wl63tez/IMG_0223%20%28Large%29.JPG

[Patrick Smith]

Some super useful info !!! Thanks !

[Tony Shulthise]

Does anyone else have any S3D tips and tricks to share?

[Tony Shulthise]

Bumping this thread up for those who are new to this group. Feel free to post any S3D tips or features you like to use.

[Jin Choi]

Does this do something different than using the "First Layer Height" setting under Layer?

[Cal Braun]

 "Try different extrusion temperatures and "filament diameter" settings for different layer height and nozzle diameter settings"

There are tons of different combinations when dealing with all these different settings, before you know it you may print off 1/3 of your roll to dial in said roll!

For instance, here is an example, but most likely not the best...

Step 1:  Temp: 190f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.75mm

Step 2:  Temp: 190f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.73mm  ( -2mm )

Step 3:  Temp: 190f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.71mm  ( -2mm )

Step 4:  Temp: 190f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.69mm  ( -2mm )

Step 5:  Temp: 109f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.67mm  ( -2mm )

Now, adjust temp -5f and run through Filament Diameters again...

Step 6:  Temp: 185f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.75mm

Step 7:  Temp: 185f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.73mm  ( -2mm )

Step 8:  Temp: 185f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.71mm  ( -2mm )

Step 9:  Temp: 185f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.69mm  ( -2mm )

Step 10:  Temp: 185f, Nozzle Diameter: .25mm, Layer Height: .10mm, Filament dIameter: 1.67mm  ( -2mm )

And there is 10 parts printed. And I haven't even tried adjusting Layer Height or Nozzle Diameter yet! So yeah, just looking for other's opinions on what they think the smarter set of permutations would be in these tests...In other words, for the programmers out there, say I was going to write an automated Unit Test that I could start, and walk away from, that would automatically  print 20 small parts. When I came back, I could pick the part that printed the best and go with those settings.

Also, your Image links no longer work... ;-)

whoDat

[A. Elias]

This is similar to a Design of Experiments.  This looks to be a two x two which is pretty easy.  https://www.moresteam.com/toolbox/design-of-experiments.cfm

You can just do the following for the two factors (have three or more factors gets a little complicated):

190C 1.75mm

190C 1.67mm

185C 1.75mm

185C 1.67mm

You can then interpolate based on what your responses are.  I typically measure the dimensional accuracy in x, y, z, and holes along with print time (quantitative) and then pimples, strings and acceleration ghosting effect (qualitative 1 through 5 scale)

If your x, y, z and hole dimensions are the same for 190C and 185C at a given filament size then temperature has no effect, but if the pimples and strings increase then there is an effect and you can choose the better of the two settings or expand your parameters (say maybe do 180C and 200C)

If x, y, z and hole dimensions are too large for 1.75mm (say +0.5mm) and too small for 1.67mm (say -0.5mm) then you can create an equation to determine the proper filament diameter, and run that part again for that filament size.  I've found I can get very good dimensional accuracy on external dimensions, but hole dimensions are usually smaller.  

This would take 60% less time than printing out all ten models.  

I did this for acceleration and perimeter tweaks holding all other parameters the same.  I attached the results in another thread somewhere.  

I recently did this type of testing at my day job and the results were pretty awesome.  There is some software out there call Minitab which can set this stuff up, except it costs a lot.  It will create plots showing the main effects and interactive effects between your factors (filament diameter, temperature, etc).  It just takes time to perform the testing and measure the results.  There are also excel templates but with limited features.  

Adam

[Tony Shulthise]

Jin,

I may have missed that all this time.  I'll have to go back and look.

All,

Someone posted something about making raised maps from 2D images.  I haven't seen that in S3D.  Anyone want to post details about how that works?

I've also not tried sequential printing of parts.  I'm not sure how that works without running into the first parts you make.  Anyone care to elaborate?

[Jamil F.]

WOW amazing info here!!! Thanks Tony

[Toby]

On using creator to convert 2d images to 3d models:

The menu is under Add-Ins->Convert Image to 3D.  It brings up a dialog to browse for an image and set the x/y dimensions and the z-height.  

There's also a "Gaussian filter factor".  Not precisely documented, but it's an averaging function to smooth out the result.  The larger the number the more smoothed out the model is.

There's a "platform height" you can set, which does the obvious thing and adds a platform of that height under the model.

Finally there's an "invert depth profile" which- you guessed it- switches between darker meaning higher and darker meaning lower.  So you can create a mold for an object from a drawing of it.

One little pain is that even with the platform height set at zero you still get a 1-layer platform under your model.  So if you want to make a model that has holes in it where the image is white (or black), you'll have to adjust your process to start printing at the second layer.

[Tony Shulthise]

Thanks for the details, Toby... I never knew this even existed.  

[Tony Shulthise]

Regarding converting an image to 3D... I tried a JPG color picture and nothing showed up.

Do you have to use a certain file type, color, size, etc...

[Scott Booker]

Try converting it to a PNG. It's my understanding that the JPG compression may give you some grief.

[Toby]

So far I've used png files with only grey tones in them.  I just tried a color jpeg image and got nothing, but when I converted it to png format it worked.  To convert it I brought it up on the screen, did a screen capture, and saved that in png.  But probably in any paint software you can load the jpeg and save in png format to keep the same image size and resolution.

[Dave K]

I'm not at my laptop, so I can't check my setup, but I used a B&W image when I did the attached print. I think it was BMP, but I doubt that it's limited to that format. Size didn't matter. No snickering please. I think it just uses 8 bit luminance, which it should be able to generate from a color photo, but maybe it's a little more primitive than that. Give B&W a shot.

[Scott Booker]

This was a color JPG scan of a school picture.  I converted it into a color PNG and then brought it into S3D.  All I did was invert the conversion, and then scale it down to about 25% of my build platform.  Printed in clear PET+.

[Dave K]

That turned out great. I tried printing one for backlit use, and it looks decidedly more low-res than yours because the backlighting required for viewing makes the filament pattern show up more.

[Toby]

That came out great, Scott  I like how it doesn't look too computer-generated.  

[Toby]

I seem to get better prints by slowing the acceleration down.  I haven't seen a Creator dialog for this though, so I do it in start G-code: 

M201 X850 Y850 Z200 E10000 ; limit acceleration

If nothing else it reduces the M2 shaking during infill.   I cribbed the values off someone else who had posted about this.  If anyone knows a creator option for setting this I'd be interested to know where it is.

[A. Elias]

You can pop that in your startup G-code, same with jerk settings.  I've kicked around the idea of changing the acceleration for the perimeters (slow like you have) and then speeding it up for infill and support.  My current slicer would need me to do this manually in a Notepad++ macro.  Anything around 850 to 1500 reduces the shaking greatly.  

Adam

[Tony Shulthise]

Awesome.  Thanks guys!

On Thursday, February 20, 2014 10:17:30 AM UTC-5, Scott Booker wrote: