Question for the PCB makers

[henry...@ntlworld.com]

I have a small single sided PCB, as yet unsoldered, size 52mm x 30mm.

I'm wondering how easy it would be to make about 3 copies of it?

Henry Best

[Nigel Worsley]

On 10 June 2018 at 15:35, henry.best1 via London Hackspace

<london-h...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> I have a small single sided PCB, as yet unsoldered, size 52mm x 30mm.
> I'm wondering how easy it would be to make about 3 copies of it?

Probably rather difficult to do 'photographically', I would scan the
board into my PCB package and then use that as a guide for a new
layout. I have done this with much larger boards than yours and it is
a fairly rapid process.

Nigle

[henry...@ntlworld.com]

Thanks for your reply, Nigle.

What PCB package do you use?

[Nigel Worsley]

On 10 June 2018 at 18:48, henry.best1 via London Hackspace

<london-h...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> Thanks for your reply, Nigle.
> What PCB package do you use?

EasyPC, there is a free version promoted by RS called Designspark PCB.
Unfortunately due to rather silly commercial considerations the two
are totally incompatible! What makes this even more stupid is that
EasyPC can import from all versions of the competing Eagle software.
Oh, and Designspark includes some features that are paid addons in
EasyPC. It is a great package, but whoever makes these idiotic
commercial decisions needs to be lynched.

Nigle

[chrisbob12]

It depends on the nature of the board. If it is high density and uses tiny SMD devices, then you probably do want to use PCB layout software.
If it is fairly simple with through-hole components on a 0.1" scale then I would consider scanning it, and mucking about in a graphics package to get an adequate b/w version and using toner transfer to make the boards.
Obviously less feasible if the board has been populated.
The advantage for me would be avoiding the learning curve for the PCB package.

[Stephen Casey]

Whatever method you choose, make sure to include an accurate scale next to the PCB when you capture the image. This will allow you to ensure that the copies are the correct size. A steel rule might be adequate.

Hope this helps.

Stephen.

[Adrian Godwin]

i've had trouble photographing pcbs because the copper is reflective and you get images of the light source. If the pcb is blank and reasonably translucent you might get good results using a flatbed scanner with a transparency backlight (or photograph it with a window behind)

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[Peter Turpin]

Related to this, does anyone recommend a short-run PCB house? I have some very small double-sided ones I'd like to get a sample run of.

[chrisbob12]

I've been happy with the results from SEEED studio's prototype service.

[Nigel Worsley]

On 11 June 2018 at 15:56, 'chrisbob12' via London Hackspace

<london-h...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> I've been happy with the results from SEEED studio's prototype service.

I have been happy with SEEED too, and their prices are now even
cheaper than when I last used them.

Nigle

[henry...@ntlworld.com]

@ Chris,

Yes, the board is simple, low density, through hole.

The only problem is that my scanner isn't working at the moment. :(

I'm in no hurry for it, so it can wait for my scanner to be fixed.

[henry...@ntlworld.com]

@ Stephen,

Thanks for the tip.

[henry...@ntlworld.com]

@Adrian,

The board has a dull coating of solder resist, so reflections shouldn't be a problem.

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 12:09:58 PM UTC+1, Adrian Godwin wrote:

i've had trouble photographing pcbs because the copper is reflective and you get images of the light source. If the pcb is blank and reasonably translucent you might get good results using a flatbed scanner with a transparency backlight (or photograph it with a window behind)

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 9:56 AM, Stephen Casey <scase...@gmail.com> wrote:

Whatever method you choose, make sure to include an accurate scale next to the PCB when you capture the image. This will allow you to ensure that the copies are the correct size. A steel rule might be adequate.

Hope this helps.

Stephen.

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[henry...@ntlworld.com]

Got my scanner working and did a scan, but it's in shades of green (solder resist) with very little contrast.

Should I remove the solder resist and do a scan on the bare copper?

I have a solvent that will probably remove it. Abrasion may damage the copper.

[Liam Lynch]

Hi Henry,

Have you tried to use contrast and brightness settting in something like inkscape to resolve out the actual circuit traces without having to attack the original board.

Not seeing the original it is hard to comment, but I'd give that a go.

Liam