replace cutlass bearings

[Gene Cloutier]

Has anyone replaced the cutlass bearing?  Did you have to remove the rudder?  Any particular challenges that occurred? 

Thank you for your comments.

Gene

SurRealEscape 43

Lake Champlain VT

[David LeGrand]

If you have not done this, have someone there that can help you. The prop needs to come off first. The strut is fiberglass to be careful of prying the old bearing out. When I installed mine, I added set screws with retainer to hold the bearing in place. I'd suggest you speak to someone directly instead of trying to figure our over the web.

It's easy, but you can easily mess up the strut.

Zut Alors
David LeGrand
+1.860.304.5999

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[ED BENEVENT]

Strut replacement:

Hope you don't have to replace the strut but if you do:
Long story-short, Weds. night race, end of August, usually no air. Blowing 25 when we leave the dock, get hit with a 43 mph gust, blown over. Foredeck drops jib sheet. Gets wrapped around shaft which gets bent and strut torn off. No one hurt, insurance covers all. However, J Boats does not have the strut. TPI Composites still has the mold and can make you one-don't take it off unless necessary. Might be best to have the yard replace cutlass bearing. It is not a big ticket item.

[Privateer #2]

Gene,
We did ours a couple of months ago not a hard job if your cutlass has
very uneven wear it is worth using the opportunity to check the
trueness of your shaft.
the shaft can be pulled without removing the rudder if you chose to do
this.
And also we did the same as David and added a grub screw to secure the
bearing in the p bracket.

Matt

[Pincus]

As everyone is saying, you should not need to remove the shaft. You
should be able to get a thin screw driver or piece of metal in there
to push it out.
I did mine when the shaft was out, but the yard here has something
like this http://www.strutpro.com/ which works nicely because it
pushes against itself instead of the strut
Before you go crazy, look carefully if someone has already put set
screws in. They might be under all those bottom paint layers...
Aaron

[Pincus]

PS, I'm 99% sure the replacement bearing was size code ABLE (they give
names to the bearings instead of dealing with sizes)

On Mar 20, 10:05 am, Pincus <pinc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> As everyone is saying, you should not need to remove the shaft.  You
> should be able to get a thin screw driver or piece of metal in there
> to push it out.
> I did mine when the shaft was out, but the yard here has something

> like thishttp://www.strutpro.com/ which works nicely because it

> pushes against itself instead of the strut
> Before you go crazy, look carefully if someone has already put set
> screws in.  They might be under all those bottom paint layers...
> Aaron
>
> On Mar 20, 2:12 am, "Privateer #2" <mattbe...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Gene,
> > We did ours a couple of months ago not a hard job if your cutlass has
> > very uneven wear it is worth using the opportunity to check the
> > trueness of your shaft.
> > the shaft can be pulled without removing the rudder if you chose to do
> > this.
> > And also we did the same as David and added a grub screw to secure the
> > bearing in the p bracket.
>

> > Matt- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Mark Camilleri]

Just replaced Cutlass bearing on Hull # 72  PEP

I wanted to replace because i've had the boat for 3.5 years and had never changed it. It was making a squeaking noise on low revs. 

Lifted boat out for 4 hours.  Removed the Blades of the prop (folding 2-blade) but did not have a puller long enough to remove the body of the prop. 

So we remove the shaft. Came out without needing to remove rudder.

The bearing was 100% Rubber. Was fairly worn, but there was no play . 

New 100% Rubber Bearing replacement Size : 36mm outer Diam  x 25 mm Shaft Diam x 82mm P Bracket length * cut to size from 100mm

the bearing is inserted from the aft side in. 

Hope this may help someone someday. 

Mark  

[dnewl...@msn.com]

Mark-Interesting that your shaft dia is 25mm, which is nearly 1".  Do you have the Yamar 1gm10?  Mine is 3/4" and from another thread I started on transmission ratios, there's at least 2 different trans ratios out there for J/92's.  Take-away-lots of differences between J/92 builds. 

[Mark Camilleri]

Hi yes my engine is a Yanmar 1GM 10

Regards 

Mark Camilleri

99404089

On 21 Sep 2022, at 20:46, dnewl...@msn.com <dnewl...@msn.com> wrote:

Mark-Interesting that your shaft dia is 25mm, which is nearly 1".  Do you have the Yamar 1gm10?  Mine is 3/4" and from another thread I started on transmission ratios, there's at least 2 different trans ratios out there for J/92's.  Take-away-lots of differences between J/92 builds. 

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