Ultimaker Original (wood one under desk)

[Eric Wood]

I was wondering if anyone knew the status of the 3D printer that is under the desk by the lockpicking station.  I heard that it might be functional and just in need of a base to make room for some things that were added to the bottom.  I would be interested in helping to get it going if possible.  Thanks!

[Jason Nevins]

The wooden one? In September, Ryan suggested giving that one away and I believe that it needs extensive work to function again. I've been told that all the printers on the floor are in a "if you want to fix them, you can play with them" status, but the 3D printing champion (Jasper?) might be able to add more info.

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 7:46 PM, Eric Wood <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

I was wondering if anyone knew the status of the 3D printer that is under the desk by the lockpicking station.  I heard that it might be functional and just in need of a base to make room for some things that were added to the bottom.  I would be interested in helping to get it going if possible.  Thanks!

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[Rick Blake]

It's had some work done to it. I donated a Mega, and Farmer was prepared to make feet to solve the fan mounting issue, other than that it needs just to be started up, checked, and commissioned. Tossing it makes little sense to me.

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018, 9:16 PM Jason Nevins <ja...@nevins.me> wrote:

The wooden one? In September, Ryan suggested giving that one away and I believe that it needs extensive work to function again. I've been told that all the printers on the floor are in a "if you want to fix them, you can play with them" status, but the 3D printing champion (Jasper?) might be able to add more info.

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 7:46 PM, Eric Wood <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

I was wondering if anyone knew the status of the 3D printer that is under the desk by the lockpicking station.  I heard that it might be functional and just in need of a base to make room for some things that were added to the bottom.  I would be interested in helping to get it going if possible.  Thanks!

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[cpr...@gmail.com]

All it needs are the feet, the Z table to be built, and it's ready to go. I fixed the driver board and did some cable management to get it good again. The extruder even extrudes.

[Eric Wood]

An extruding extruded sounds like a good feature! I think I found all the new acrylic parts for the z-table and will take a stab at assembling it this week if nobody objects. I set it on a couple of pieces of 2x4 to check it out but am working on a more attractive solution for the feet.

[cpr...@gmail.com]

I know that David Farmer wanted to put a extruded aluminum table together for it, and I think the parts are all there for that too, There is a jamb nut and a piece of aluminum to put that all into, as well as the t-nuts and other hardware needed to get that all together if you wish to take that route too. May options, just happy that someone wants to put it together fully! yay.

[Eric Wood]

As I dig in further I can see why an aluminum table might have been attractive.  There are acrylic parts for another table as well but there is a fair amount of fitting involved.  I'm wondering if the original table was problematic or if acrylic and/or aluminum was an interesting modification.

[Jasper Nance]

The original was wood, and required a significant amount of re leveling, almost daily, due to humidity and temperature variation 

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[Eric Wood]

So I got the acrylic z-table constructed along with some feet and a few other odds and ends.  I printed a successful cali-cat today but the heated bed is not getting power when the display says that it is heating.  My first guess was that the driver was cooked but after a little troubleshooting it doesn't look like it is getting the "on" signal from the Arduino.

I noticed from this thread that the Arduino may have been replaced and am wondering if something might have been off in the config files when the firmware was built for the replacement.  I am planning on building the latest version of Marlin anyway but was hoping the info on the thermocouple and/or thermister for the hot end and bed is recorded somewhere.

I'm just throwing this out there in case someone has some old recollections that might be helpful.

[Max Sprinkle]

Do any of our printers have ABS capability?

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[Eric Ose]

Ultimaker 2 does ABS.

Eric Ose
azrobotambassador.com

[Jasper Nance]

The Choocher also does ABS

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 6:49 PM, Eric Ose <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ultimaker 2 does ABS.

Eric Ose
azrobotambassador.com

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 5:48 PM Max Sprinkle <stage...@gmail.com> wrote:

Do any of our printers have ABS capability?

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 17:40 Eric Wood <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

So I got the acrylic z-table constructed along with some feet and a few other odds and ends.  I printed a successful cali-cat today but the heated bed is not getting power when the display says that it is heating.  My first guess was that the driver was cooked but after a little troubleshooting it doesn't look like it is getting the "on" signal from the Arduino.

I noticed from this thread that the Arduino may have been replaced and am wondering if something might have been off in the config files when the firmware was built for the replacement.  I am planning on building the latest version of Marlin anyway but was hoping the info on the thermocouple and/or thermister for the hot end and bed is recorded somewhere.

I'm just throwing this out there in case someone has some old recollections that might be helpful.

On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 7:46:40 PM UTC-7, Eric Wood wrote:

I was wondering if anyone knew the status of the 3D printer that is under the desk by the lockpicking station.  I heard that it might be functional and just in need of a base to make room for some things that were added to the bottom.  I would be interested in helping to get it going if possible.  Thanks!

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Jasper Nance - KE7PHI
Creative and Scientific Imagery
http://www.nebarnix.com/

[Rick Blake]

I contributed the Mega, and I don't think I ever even used it. If it's bad let me know, but it may just be code. Is it Marlin?

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 7:04 PM Jasper Nance <nebar...@gmail.com> wrote:

The Choocher also does ABS

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 6:49 PM, Eric Ose <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

Ultimaker 2 does ABS.

Eric Ose
azrobotambassador.com

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 5:48 PM Max Sprinkle <stage...@gmail.com> wrote:

Do any of our printers have ABS capability?

On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 17:40 Eric Wood <eric...@gmail.com> wrote:

So I got the acrylic z-table constructed along with some feet and a few other odds and ends.  I printed a successful cali-cat today but the heated bed is not getting power when the display says that it is heating.  My first guess was that the driver was cooked but after a little troubleshooting it doesn't look like it is getting the "on" signal from the Arduino.

I noticed from this thread that the Arduino may have been replaced and am wondering if something might have been off in the config files when the firmware was built for the replacement.  I am planning on building the latest version of Marlin anyway but was hoping the info on the thermocouple and/or thermister for the hot end and bed is recorded somewhere.

I'm just throwing this out there in case someone has some old recollections that might be helpful.

On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 7:46:40 PM UTC-7, Eric Wood wrote:

I was wondering if anyone knew the status of the 3D printer that is under the desk by the lockpicking station.  I heard that it might be functional and just in need of a base to make room for some things that were added to the bottom.  I would be interested in helping to get it going if possible.  Thanks!

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Jasper Nance - KE7PHI
Creative and Scientific Imagery
http://www.nebarnix.com/

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[cpr...@gmail.com]

I think we actually went back to the original Mega that was on there. I don't recall testing the heated bed at all, I did compile some code for it more than once, and edited a config file, so it is way possible that I never enabled the heated bed.

[cpr...@gmail.com]

P.S. that cat looks amazing!

[Rick Blake]

Then just put mine on the board, they go pretty quickly, I got a good deal on it.

On Sat, Mar 31, 2018, 11:15 AM <cpr...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Eric Wood]

Did some more troubleshooting today.  It looks like the problem is the thermistor by the bed.  It was reading open which translates to zero degrees.  The firmware has a minimum temperature and was preventing the bed from heating.  The wire from the thermistor to the board is in pretty bad shape.  Anyway, I think I just need to remount/wire the thermistor and I we will be back in business.

Thanks for the input!

[Jasper Nance]

This is so awesome. Can Plexiglas handle the heat?

[Eric Wood]

Re-wiring the thermistor on the bed took care of the last of the issues.  Rick, I think your Mega may be the one that is installed.  I found a note from Larry & David from 2015 that said the electronics were fixed.  It is possible they put it in at that time and got it working.  The problems I found recently were all sketchy wires (melted insulation) and loose connections.

Regarding the acrylic parts and heat, the acrylic parts are only the "z stage" or the part under the bed that attaches to the bearings and screw.  The bed itself is still the one that I found when I started and separated from the acrylic parts by the springs and leveling screws.  We'll have to see on how the acrylic deals with heat.  I probably would have chosen aluminum but found the acrylic parts in a bin and thought we should give them a try.  The bed is made from hardboard and one of the red bed heaters. I hope to upgrade it to something similar to the Ultimaker 2 but wanted to get everything working first to establish a baseline.

Anyway, it is in a working state for anyone that wants to experiment.  I'm hosting on Thursday and plan to do some calibration/tuning if its quiet.

[cpr...@gmail.com]

Awesome job dude! I fixed the electronics last year. From what I remember, the replacement board we were going to try and use was red in color.
This was my thread on the topic.
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/heatsynclabs/original$20ultimaker%7Csort:date/heatsynclabs/mDUVQAdw3Y8/WKLL-jc3AAAJ

[JR]

Glad to hear that those acrylic parts I cut finally got assembled and put to use.  I still need to put my own heated beds together and get them working.

On Sunday, April 1, 2018 at 7:27:10 AM UTC-7, Eric Wood wrote:

[Eric Wood]

I have a question for the 3D printing enthusiasts.  Now that I have the Ultimaker Original working again I was thinking about some additional upgrades but it occurred to me it might make more sense to work with one of the Robo 3D machines instead.  I have heard from folks that were around when the original was regularly used that alignment was a consistent problem and that this was often attributed to the wooden frame and parts.  The Robo 3D look like they are built fairly well and are based on the same basic software and hardware.

Do you think it would make more sense to get one of the Robo 3D's into production condition?

[Max Sprinkle]

Could we stiffen the wooden frame of the Ultimaker to make it more consistent?

~Max

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[Eric Wood]

I do have some ideas around stiffening the structure.  I just happened took a closer look at the Robo 3D printers this morning and the build quality seems quite nice and I think the dual Z screws would be a plus.

[cpr...@gmail.com]

Thanks for restoring the Ultimaker to operation. It's an awesome piece of (now working) Heatsynclabs history. I know somewhere Larry is smiling down at it. That printer managed some terrifically awesome prints before I was a part of the lab, and I may even visit it tonight to see the fruits of your labor. Thanks again for all the work you put into it! In true Heatsync nature, any improvements you can make on it are welcome, and getting the robos up and running(and improved) would be neat too! Just make sure that we retain a few broken 3d printers, as according to some of the best authorities on hackerspaces, apparently our "hackerspaciness" depends somewhat on the amount of broken 3d printers we've got around. I think we've got enough to maintain our ratio once the robos are up and running though ^_^

[Nate Plamondon]

I had a moment of panic the other night, thinking we might be an invalid hackerspace. Thankfully, someone pointed out the two dead printers under the table.

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[Nathan Crary]

I did some quick checking of the 2 Robo 3D printers.
Here's what I found:
Both come with tablets, but only one powers on. There doesn't seem to be any apps installed that are specific to the printer, so I'm not sure what it is actually for. There is an SD card slot very low down on the side.
They both power on. Neither of them make any movement at all on power on.
The SD card slot has a red light emiting from it. On one printer the led is green, on the other it's red. Not sure if this means anything.
One printer is white and the other is off white(yellowing). The one that is a off white looks like it is a compilation of parts from other printers.
On the off white printer, the glass bed looks like it has never been used. It has broken plastic arm which hold the glass tray (via magnets) in place. They could probably be fabricated from acrylic.

I pulled the bottom off of the white one.
It has a Arduino Mega 2560 card.

I would like to get at least one of them working. Using parts from both printers I think there's a good chance this is possible with little expense.

There is no display on the printers. I'm not sure what it would cost, but I would like to spend the time/money to add one.

[Eric Wood]

I (and cpro) looked a little bit closer over the last week too.  I got far enough to decide that neither one seemed like a better option than the UMO.  The graphic displays like I added to the UMO run $10-$15 but will require a firmware update.  I did not get as far as connecting a laptop and running something like Pronterface to see if the Mega is talking.  Cpro also noted some broken plastic parts on the bed of the less white one.

[cpr...@gmail.com]

Awesome that these are getting looked at.
I pulled the off-white one apart to see what was going on inside, I did not re-attach the fan, thinking no one was going to mess with them.
The shell was on backwards, and while together, I discovered the mounts on the Y axis table were shattered pretty good.

The big weak spots I see are the plastic table holders with the magnets, the parts that hold the Y axis belt, which you can see the originals already broke in half and were replaced by 3d Printed ones, and the linear bearing holders are made out of that same cheap crappy plastic too.
There are bearing upgrades on thingiverse for it, but I did not find any files for printing the Y axis table extremities. My guess is that even 3d printed versions would be stronger than what they built it with originally.